Convert Your Copper To PEX | Church Flip | Episode 11
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- In today's video I'm showing you how to convert from copper to PEX so that your plumbing will last for 50 years. This is an important skill for anyone who has an older home, and it's easier than you think. PEX Ring Crimping Tool: geni.us/GXB6oF (Amazon)
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Easy way to empty water out of a pipe is to use an old sprayer nozzle from a spray bottle - stick the tube in the pipe and point the sprayer end into a cup and squeeze the trigger until its all pumped out.
Great frigginidea!!!! I never would have thought of that simple fix on my own! Thanks for sharing!!
It's SO much easier to just use a SHOP VAC. It takes care of the problem in seconds! Or if you have an air compressor on site, just open faucets and blow out the water.
I used to run a hotel with 64 toilets and using a Shop Vac was a must. We didn't use the Vac to suck out the "muck", we used it to clear out the water from the tank and bowl before servicing the units. it made the repairs "dripless".
BTW, no, we didn't use the same Shop Vac on the toilets as the Vac we used for the potable water lines. Also, most of the time we just used the 1 gallon sized units, cheap and effective.
Bread... Always works and when you turn on the taps it just comes out
Brilliant! Thanks.
Genius
2:30 Pro tip: to empty your pipe, use the head of a spray bottle (windex). Fit the plastic straw into the pipe and spray the water into a rag.
Plumbing is something I have never felt comfortable doing. But, you have enough videos which gives me the courage to tackle some light plumbing myself. Thank you.
You are like an uncle that I always wanted to have! We are about to purchase a house and you made me much more confident in my own abilities. :)
Happy to help!
Our home built in 1968, copper piping, hard water well - constant rotten egg smell...
Taked to water expert, he tested water and said high in iron. Copper pipes were green inside from chemical reaction causing the smell. Replaced all water lines with PEX and added iron filter before softener and no issues or smell for 7 years already :-)
My parents are dealing with this! Thanks for a direction to try
How did you access hundreds of copper fittings to convert to PEX without removing all drywall?!
@SmartLifeSolutionsWork I had a similar issue difference is my house was built in 1940's. I had to remove the drywall, cut the copper, and pull it all out. Replaced with Pex B because of lower install price (I had to buy the connection tool). Pressure is better and no pipe bursting during freeze.
Just a quick tip about flux. It's main purpose is to remove oxidation and keep the joint free of oxidation by sealing out air during the soldering/brazing process. This will help with solder "wetting" to create that intermetallic bond between the solder and copper.
Most important Flux creates the Calculari action pulling the soder into copper well creating the soder bond,joint ,properly done,lasts forever.
...wow, I'm redoing my basement bedroom and bathroom, I literally bought the cutting and crimping tool 20 minutes ago and then this video pops up...get out out of my head! Lol.
hopefully you don’t flood your basement but not hiring a plumber
@@nutter4butter If you can't install PEX as a DIYer then you also probably need help eating and tying your shoes.
I also fix my own car, got any complaints about that too because I'm not a licensed mechanic?
@@DeltaH-9 he’s being a condescending prick about it but he’s got a point. If any of the plumbing isn’t done correctly you’ll have to redo your entire basement and bathroom. Sometimes it’s worth it to hire an expert.
@@sami-iami I'm not hiring someone to install what is basically now Lego pieces with clamps. Anyone with at least half of a brain can install PEX. As long as you follow the instructions there will not be an issue.
6:17 or can grab a heat mat to hang up there and protect DWV and back of drywall, as those mats work pretty well. Also, wet-rag is another product can use for on pipes etc that don’t want heat transferring or “melting” fittings up from where soldering, etc….
Weird trick I learned from tea bags, but applies here. Get a long paper towel cut it into a strip about 1-2 inches wide. Twist it tight length wise at a slight angle so it resembles a long pipe cleaner. You can put that down your tube and make sure the rest of the towel outside the pipe is lower than the water level you want to remove, then wet the rest of your paper towel. The surface tension of the water acts as a syphon. I've successfully done this to pipes 8-9" down. Or just wet a cotton string, or get some small tubing and use them as a syphon.
Great tip!
Map gas is the way to go. If you haven't ever done this, you'll want to practice on some scrap pipe. If you heat too long you'll burn the out the flux and it won't suck in the solder. The flux is what makes this work.
Get a scrap of ceramic tile or similar for a heat shield in tight spaces so you don't burn plastic pipes or set stuff on fire.
A few layers of aluminum foil works great as well as a heat barrier
For the diyer yes map gas is the most cost effective option. But nothing beats a b-tank and turbo torch for soldering.
Thanks for the tips!
MAPP isn’t true MAPP anymore. A propane tank with TS8000 will do the trick quickly.
An old license plate you can bend around the pipe works wonders
I hope the Pex crimps hold 50 years. Still like copper inside the walls. In visible areas Sharkbites are my favorite. Thanks for the video.
LOL at the McGyver paper towel torch trick. Thanks for the laugh Jeff. Great tutorial as always.
I'm in the middle of swapping everything over to Pex. I never liked soldering copper because I didn't do it often enough to be really good at it.
You don't need a wrench to turn the handle of the tubing cutter. Gradual works best.
Came for the PEX, left with learning how to light a torch the Jeff way!
Loving it!
They also make compression fittings you can use to go copper -> pex.
Plumber here from Southern Onterrible, I use a hand siphon 8$ at canadian tire to drain water in vertical lines like that the odd time , works great
pro tip and i havent even done this but here goes ..for water in line as shown in video at start =wet dry vacuum with smaller insertion pipe , u imagine the🤫 rest
PEX makes life much easier for these kinds of projects!
Didn't think I'd ever need this but my old copper running to my kitchen needs to be swapped out and this is perfect!
i love sharkbites, but i agree, only when i can see them. i have them under my kitchen sink because i was moving stuff around a lot during the renovation. check out those autocut pipe cutters, no need to adjust the cutter tension, just clamp and turn
I use a spray bottle head to empty vertical copper of water. .even for replacing main water shut off valve. There is always one bottle tucked in a corner in my van. Super easy.
You can boil that water off pretty easily too if you heat it up a few extra minutes down the pipe before you even clean it up, it’s a pretty easy way to get to dry pipe to work on. Enjoy your day
PEX only at best has a 25 year warranty and most PEX fittings only have a 10 year warranty, so the thought that any PEX job will be a 100 year job is dreaming. Copper is still king, but is expensive and harder to work with. I replaced all my copper with PEX because we had pinholes. Fortunately I am older and will not likely be here in even 25 years to see if it really holds up that well. The key to PEX (or any pipe/fittings) longevity is have a whole house filter that get the chlorine out (when on municipal water) as they will age pipe/fittings faster.
If the pipe is relatively straight, insert a dowel and it will force the water up and out.
To change copper to pex-b, I would increase the diameter. For example, to replace 1/2 inch copper, how about use 3/4 inch pex-b. Likewise, replacing 3/4 copper, use 1 inch pex-b. The reason is that fittings for pex-b reduces the flow as the internal diameter is smaller (pressure drop). For pex-a, no need to increase the diameter because the fittings does not reduce the internal diameter. I would like to ask the pros if this method is ok to avoid pressure drop.
PREACH IT LOUDER FOR THOSE IN THE BACK!!!!!
Although to be thorough, it doesn't cause a pressure drop. It does reduce flow. Also the fittings cause a lot of turbulence which further reduces flow. Even with PEX A I would up size. I'm going to be putting in PEX A to replace my old copper pipes. I'm running 3/4 to everything and I'll use a 3/4 to half male fitting when I get to where I need. My main will be 1 inch and my spigots will be 1 inch as well.
Also, PEX A does reduce the id. Go to Lowe's grab a 3/4 PEX A fitting and 3/4 copper pipe and you will see the copper is still a little larger.
Fantastic. Good information to know about the 25 years compared to 50+ years
Here in Australia, we use crimp fittings on both copper and Pex, makes the job easy.
This is CZcams gold! Thanks!!
A Wet & Dry Vac works great on removing water from pipes. Be sure to open sink valves to help suck out the water.
Easiest way to keep water from being drawn to the fitting you are soldering. Tear a piece of white bread and stuff it in the copper pipe. Stops water from creeping, the bread dissolves relatively quickly, a time and frustration saver.
the non sharkbite way to convert your Copper to Pex (and probably way better). Great video thanks!
I use a wet/dry vac with a 12” length of ice maker tubing to suck the water level down.. don’t need to tape it , just close it off with your fingers a bit and it is plenty to suck the water out… you need the wet/dry anyway to clean up spilled water.
Love your educational videos Jeff, thank you!
Cheers
to dry the copper use a wet vacuum to sock the water
A shop vac is good for sucking the water out of the pipe. Also good when making the first cut with water still in the pipe.
The only thing i am afraid of is that PEX can be chewed by mice or squirrels if they are thirsty ( especially when you try to poison them out of your attic)
Yup agreed and low pressure thing
Thank you for giving me feedback I really appreciate your work that you’re doing online and who knows I’ll reach out to you surprisingly just to say hi😃
Cheers
In 100yrs I'm 178yrs old, and instead of behind a wall have sharkbite shutoff exposed like in a open enclosure.
Wet and dry vac is always good for emptying the pipe only takes a couple of seconds
when draining the line. use a small piece of fabric. push one end in. hang the other end of the pipe. water will wick up and poor over the edge till it's empty. should only take a second. and will go down the length of the fabric in side the pipe.
My Uncle told me that in the army they'd use a few strings from a new mop to wick the very last of the fuel from gas tanks, he said there wouldn't even be any residual smell. Maybe that would work on waterlines
Not in this case but a dribbler, you can use some white bread jammed in plug and to solder, it will dissolve.
Remove the crust or no?
Unfortunately, many people believe that Sharkbite often fails. Which is not true, they do not fail, if installed correctly.
We are not concerned because we’ve ever seen them failing. We haven’t. We are only concerned because we don’t have decades worth of experience that they keep up long term.
But as far as we know, it is entirely possible that they work fine for 50 years and beyond.
And by the way, my few decades old copper pipes are failing left and right. So I am tearing up all, and replacing them with pex. I trust it more than copper, even woth Sharkbite.
It all depends on the install. I live in a 1958 house and I see all the original copper in the basement still working as well as the day it was installed. Those copper pipes in my house have been around longer than I have and still going.
@@robertgiresi9515 Yeah, many times it fails, many times not. That’s the definition of unreliability.
Mine had some leaks on the middle of a section, which was hanging in the air, far away from fittings. Not sure what kind of installation could’ve prevented that.
But I don’t hear PEX failing at all, regardless of how they install it.
Copper whilst hardest to install is still unrivalled for proven durability and lifespan
No it isn't. PEX will withstand more extreme events like freezing.
PEX hasn't been around long enough to say that it is unreliable. And if it fails, it is easy to repair, unlike copper.
@@daveface69 pex is relatively unproven, it is a new system...
@@lxmzhg thanks for restating my point.
@@lxmzhg if your pex fails and creates 30k to 50k of water damage, the ease of repairing the system will be largely irrelevant.
You should just start using propex (expansion pex A ), text a it's much easier to install an overall is a superior product to other pex type
Time will tell. Made by upon or and they have a history of racing new products to market that went bad.
Ridgid makes a ratchet tool that fits certain model emps (local field nickname for close quarters tubing cutters)
Always great and informative videos that's why I've stayed subscribed to you. Bravo!
Appreciate that. Cheers!
I use Sharkbite. If you fit them properly they do not fail. Deburr deburr deburr.
At 2:44, stuff bread in the pipe. It keeps the water back and dissolves when done (cooked).
Any kind?
You're the man. Great video.
Ugh as the more repairs I make in the copper pipe in my las vegas home I realize that it will have to be repiped in the next 10years,wirsbo is what I will go with since I will be keeping said home,pex is great if you plan on selling,but definitely not the strongest. Also I use a self-tightening copper cutter in close quarters makes it easier then spinning that wheel.Great video
And that's why I use sharkbite, because of the water that is left in the line
Remember shark bite isn't just the quick push fittings. They make quality brass compression fittings too.
I love sharkbite fittings, in California with so many earthquakes copper breaks easily
Worst part about PEX in old farm houses is mice. They really like to chew at the water filled lines. They can cause LOTS of damage.
The interior of the pipe was not deburred properly. Please ensure you debur the inner part of the tube as it creates turbulence and you will find that you will get pin hole leaks just after your fitting in copper to copper. The wire brush doesn’t remove burs properly. Adding flux only to the end of the pipe being soldered not the inside as you can leave more residue than wanted and that eats the pipe from the inside, again going from copper to copper. This should be explained so that so it yourselfers aren’t misled from what is shown here.
LOL beware a paper towel can reignite after snuffing it better to use water. As they say expierience is the best teacher!
Always a pleasure all your videos are so interesting so helpful thanks for sharing
I always make a hook at the end of the solder to be certain it goes around the back.
If you wipe that Flux off after heating and b4 Appling the solder you won't get that mess around your joint I used to solder like that too until I was given that tip
I recently saw a video where you would see the solder get pulled out of the joint because of the excess solder on the pipe and no, it wasn't a demonstration of how not to solder.
Is there a reason why you wouldn't just wipe the flux off before heating the pipe?
Nice to convert when all walls are open :)
I am always curious, how do you protect those lines from mice? What if mice chew this pex pipes and flood your house? Copper is much more robust.
"Amazing how simple it is with plumbing!" Dieddddd laughing!!
Multiple homes near me have flooded due to pex. One builder started using it and rats chew on it or something similar I even know a person that had two floods from it.
One of my fears
All you need is a little wd 40 those mini cutters tighten much easier
Drinking water through copper pipes is much healthier than PEX so personally I use pex on flips and rentals because it is cheap and easy but still prefer copper for my own pipes.
You'll change your mind once you live in a house built before the 70s. Copper corrosion is toxic.
Recent lawsuits have shed lots of light on the failures of PEX plumbing showing that they aren’t as good as originally assumed.
I'm an electrician and we always knew there where plummers on the job just by the smell of solder.
Man I miss that smell 😔
please use a reamer (deburring tool) on the inside of the copper to eliminate a lip, not a wire brush like this guy is using, that is for cleaning fittings. you will have pin hole leaks if you do not make the inside lip flush.
Converting to pex, will change volume & pressure.
Jeff is a university lecturer but it's construction and very practical and noob friendly, lol.
Hey Jeff, just wondering is there a reason you'd want to convert existing copper plumbing to pex other than it's easier to work with? thanks!
Copper plumbing gets pinholes notoriously. Big pain especially as it ages
so you don't have to put the solder all around the fitting? just 25% of it??
Yep! Rodents have a hard time chewing through copper
Thanks for sharing!
As a plumber I won’t even recommend copper anymore. Pex is the future.
Yeah, you're a special kind of stupid who has to vote democrat. Tell me I'm wrong.
Sharkbite with access panel. Problem solved. No soldering.
Old geezer tip about flux: CLEAN UP THE MELTED OVERFLOW.
Flux is great stuff but some folks forget that it is actually ACID.
If you don' t clean it up, 20 years down the road, you'll notice that your pipes have corroded in spots where the flux oozed out to.
If that area of the pipe has experienced condensation or moist conditions, a pinhole will develop and may eventually lead to a burst pipe.
ASK ME HOW I KNOW!!!
So do yourself a favour: take a few moments and *wipe away the flux residue* after you've made that beautiful sweat-soldered joint.
Depending on the flux type, you _might_ be able to get away with a soap and water soaked cloth to wipe it away, or you might be better off with a rag and some alcohol (maybe acetone or some other mild solvent.)
It's no use making a 100-year fitting if you'll be flooded out in 20 years because your pipes turned into blue-green copper oxides. May as well have bought the Shark Bite fittings...
Cheers Jim!
Best of luck on the longevity of that. The plumber used a quality name brand solder on conversion fitting and 4 years later the brass fitting was bad, it was a tee and literally crumbled when touched... luckily i heard the hissing in my wall. The fitting was a low lead "lead free" fitting as all are now...we check the other brass conversion fittings and some signs of deterioration. When we redid it recently we went pex all inside with plastic tees and fittings and made a single conversion connection in an access box outside. And while I used to would have always gone for the brass fitting over plastic, I can no longer trust the new planet saving brass they are producing. Maybe it's improved in the last 4 years, but I won't take that chance again
Interesting, I had my house frozen couple of month ago. Got pretty lucky, all copper survived. It was couple of brass fittings which did not (one, shower valve rough in, got an inside hole in it), fortunately past shutoffs, so did not leak.
PEX tubing is much thicker than copper pipe so does that mean you will loose water pressure?
Yup
Can you also convert Galvanized pipe to Pex?
Npt coupling and a pex by npt male adapter
4:08 based af
Maybe I'm the only one having this problem with PEX-B but if you're running PEX-B (crimping with copper rings), then it's important to upsize your pipes then reduce it at the fixtures. For example, if your existing lines or architectural plans calls for 1/2" pipes, then upsize to 3/4" then branch off and reduce size it to 1/2" at the fixtures. The reason to do this is because the fittings has a smaller inside diameter than the pex pipe itself. So if you're running 1/2" PEX-B, then the fittings will reduce the flow rate of the water. If you run multiple fixtures (i.e. running a dishwasher and washing machine at the same time), you'll notice a considerable amount of reduction in water flow when you turn on your sink or kitchen faucet. Uponor or PEX-A doesn't have this problem because of the design of their fittings.
spot on sir 👍
I think Jeff mentioned that in the last video which is why he chose not to use a hard 90 elbow on the hot and cold water valves and decided to go with the bending tool instead to make 90 degree turns. My takeaway is minimize joints with PEX-B or go with PEX-A instead. It's a tough call for DIYers because the crimping tools for PEX-B are affordable while PEX-B are not. But it might be worth a go with the more expensive PEX-A tools to save yourself a waterflow issue as you've discovered.
@@robertgiresi9515 absolutely correct. You can spend more on the PEX-A tool (which is easier to use physically) or you can spend money on larger pipes and fittings. For DIYer, it only makes sense of you're doing a kitchen along with a couple of bathrooms. If you're just doing it for 1 bathroom (3-4 fixtures) then spend the money on bigger pipes and fittings with PEX-B
@@JtotheRizzo Also, it looks like PEX-B is available everywhere which is also a reason to use PEX-B and upsize to 3/4". I just did some research and found out that PEX-A is not readily available in most places. Luckily for me, I live within 30 minutes of 5 different Home Depot locations and I found one of my local area stores does carry PEX-A, so it gives me options. But I'm guessing that might be a deal breaker for many unless they order it online.
A little bit of wisdom from a plumber you do not want to run 3/4 pex crimp on the hotline out with no recirculation line and then branch at the end. So let's say you have a bathroom with shower and a wash room at one end of the house. What happens is it will take forever to get hot water because it has to heat that entire 3/4 line before you get hot water. I'd run two 1/2 inch lines back to the mechanical room off the 3/4 line on the water heater in the mechanical room. One line to supply the bathroom and the other for the washroom.
Pro Tip: Grab your shop-vac and suck the water out of the line. Boom done in 5 sec.
i just found out that there are Pex A and Pex B, cant remember if you said which one to use, but some research B should be fine for doing a shower? Its 1/2" I read might be good to go up a size to 3/4" but is that necessary? isnt the water pressure still subject to the shower fixture output? Would removing the water restrictor increase pressure? Thank you & as always love your videos Jeff & HRV team!
“Amazing how simple it is with plumbing” Hahahaha
I have a question for everyone. I own a 1 story house so the vast majority of the existing 1" and 1/2" copper plumbing is exposed in the basment. I have a hydronic heating system. Boiler & baseboard. There are 1/2" lines leading to the various baseboard locations in each of the rooms above. Is pex type b suitable for replacement of the 1/2" copper?
"Amazing how simple it is with plumbing"....
Thank you for sharing
there are self starting torches lol
Jeff, what about copper compression to pex? in tight spaces, shark bite is not an option.
1) An old license plate makes a good shield for not setting your house on fire. And, 2) if you’re my dad you have a damp/wet rag ready to wipe the pipe clean of dripping solder.
A wet rag is also a good shield.
A wet rag can cause thermal shock to the joint and possible compromise.
@@robertwessel6409 he said "dripping" solder. I don't think he meant putting the rag directly on the joint while it's still hardening.
Thanks
G'day from Australia. I'm about to plumb a whole new house with PEX - A. Just wondering if you have any comments about the type of PEX fitting. Compression ring or expansion ring. I love your work by the way. Keep it going. Regards Gaz.
I'm a Master Plumber from MN both Pex A and Pex B have the positives but on new construction I like to use Pex A expansion. The reason is water flow water cannot be compressed. Pex A expands to go over the fitting so the fittings are bigger and flow more water through the joint. Copper sweat still is king for water flow but Pex A expansion is a close second. For expansion I recommend Uponor and for crimp I recomend Viega. Some of the crimp styles you need to watch out for the crimp ring they get fatigued over time and will leak. Viega seems to be the best crimp style I've used and same goes for Uponor.
@@JacobLAChristenson Hi mate. Thanks for your comments. This is inline with what I was thinking too. Nice to get some confirmation. cheers
Hi there, how do you extend the 1/2 inch OD PEX pipe sticking out of the wall just about one cm where there is not enough length to accommodate the crimping ring. Can you do a video on this issue? thanks in advance.
1:00 - serious question. I'm a homeowner and have been burned by lifetime this and 50 year that. I bought a house with "plastic" plumbing that I found out later was polybutylene. 4 leaks later...
How do you *know* it's a 100 year whatever? Seriously, that's just repeating manufacturing claims or what?
I am slow to adapt to changes. Many companies market new ideas and only time tells the truth.
I heard that refitting a 1/2 inch copper pipe to pex with cause low water pressure (due to the pex fitting) and will damage the plumbing system. Any thoughts? Tks!
I still think shark bites are only good for semi-permanent repair. Like a repair that can save you a decade until you want to actually renovate whatever room it's in.
I'd need to hire a plumber because some things I'm still not comfortable doing!