I like to use machinist "way oil" to hose out the swarf and junk out of the oil passages. It's basically designed to float all those sharp bits of metal out of the super tight bearing surfaces in in a machine tool, so might work well for junk packed in those hard to reach places. I am a machinist, and I find casting sand in 50+ year old engines all the time, from when they were just little baby engines, hah.
Lew..the main bearing caps...would it be a good indicator that the cast numbers on them have the base facing the rear of the block as an orientation? Are they usually marked with a matching number like your diff carrier bearing caps are?
I'm watching this and thinking the oil pump is for an engine with a timing chain. The pump end has red on it, and I believe the sprocket is correct for timing chain. I just had my chain driven apart and sprocket is the same. Am I wrong?
Nice! Question, how do you know what piston goes in what bore? My machinist fits each piston to its bore making them a mated pair. Rarely will you order pistons and have them be all the same size. I've seen pistons very in size .002 + Nice work!
My pistons can vary in OD just a tad but are always mid range of the spec. The important thing is to get the ring gap correct. If one hole had to be bored over size bigger than the others, that size as well as the others will be stamped in the top of the piston and on the block. I have all my running gear like pistons, rods, crank etc all balanced. My guy is cheap so I go for it. Others charge alot so may not be worth it.
I know that you did this quite a while ago but that's an M-38 block as indicated by the serial number, not a CJ block. It's also a late version of that block as well.
I imagine one will get about 100k if maintained. Those old motors do not last as long as modern stuff but they do well for the technology. They are a low rpm, low compression motor so the bearings last a long time. The down side is the long stroke causes more ring and piston wear so they slowly become oval shaped. Takes a inside micrometer to measure the cylinders but that is why a hone job is a waste.
I was wondering how much would you charge someone to rebuild this engine? I wish I could rebuild mine myself, but I'm a disabled vet. I don't want to get ripped off when I pay to have it done.
@@IronSharpensIron127 darn. I love teaching guys how to do it. Not very difficult, really. Just attention to detail and being super clean. The factory book is really good.
Lots of great information. Thanks for taking the time to explain. Looking forward to following the process.
Great timing, this video series is just what I need. My engine is the next thing on the restoration block
Me too. 😉👌🏽 i have no idea where to go to tebuild my L134, im in LA
Wealth of knowledge right there!
That's a good block you have there Lew
Thanks Lew!!!!!!
Awesome, I am going to be rebuilding mine this year.
This helped a lot!
Greetings from Alaska!
Cool. Glad to help! We need support for the IFFC in Alaska. Alaska patrol! facebook.com/groups/1641202336209808/?ref=share
Just curious. What was your cost estimate?
I like to use machinist "way oil" to hose out the swarf and junk out of the oil passages. It's basically designed to float all those sharp bits of metal out of the super tight bearing surfaces in in a machine tool, so might work well for junk packed in those hard to reach places. I am a machinist, and I find casting sand in 50+ year old engines all the time, from when they were just little baby engines, hah.
👍 👍👍!!! Thanks for sharing!!!
Looks like a RMCxxxxx number above the water pump. Wouldn’t that make it a M38 motor? Anyway, great video, very informative. Thank you.
Lew..the main bearing caps...would it be a good indicator that the cast numbers on them have the base facing the rear of the block as an orientation? Are they usually marked with a matching number like your diff carrier bearing caps are?
Hmmm? I never looked at that. I always mark them to keep them correct. I'll take a look next time.
@@hummernutsfl that'd be great because all my caps were removed when I bought the blocks....they weren't bolted in but sitting loose.
thanks for posting, looking forward to rebuilding my L134 (s) this winter
I'm watching this and thinking the oil pump is for an engine with a timing chain. The pump end has red on it, and I believe the sprocket is correct for timing chain. I just had my chain driven apart and sprocket is the same. Am I wrong?
Nice! Question, how do you know what piston goes in what bore? My machinist fits each piston to its bore making them a mated pair. Rarely will you order pistons and have them be all the same size. I've seen pistons very in size .002 +
Nice work!
My pistons can vary in OD just a tad but are always mid range of the spec. The important thing is to get the ring gap correct. If one hole had to be bored over size bigger than the others, that size as well as the others will be stamped in the top of the piston and on the block. I have all my running gear like pistons, rods, crank etc all balanced. My guy is cheap so I go for it. Others charge alot so may not be worth it.
I know that you did this quite a while ago but that's an M-38 block as indicated by the serial number, not a CJ block. It's also a late version of that block as well.
Mine have serial number in the same spot but start with the letter and number 1MB following of five numbers (23***), what engine is that make that?
What about dipping the whole bare block into an ultra sound bath?
Should clean it pretty well, shouldn't it?
I mean even the passages.....
I would still rod the passages out. The vibe may break loose gunk but it won't wash it out.
@@hummernutsfl you're right👍
Where are you in CO I’m in Windsor and looking for good machining
i am in Lafayette.
May i get parts ones sir, pistons and others to select using
I get most of my parts here:
www.rfjp.com/default.aspx?
What is the usual life of a quality engine rebuild such as yours?
I imagine one will get about 100k if maintained. Those old motors do not last as long as modern stuff but they do well for the technology. They are a low rpm, low compression motor so the bearings last a long time. The down side is the long stroke causes more ring and piston wear so they slowly become oval shaped. Takes a inside micrometer to measure the cylinders but that is why a hone job is a waste.
Thanks. As I recall the older engines often needed a valve job before pistons and rings
@@kumsuk77777 yup, valves ground and maybe new guides.
I was wondering how much would you charge someone to rebuild this engine? I wish I could rebuild mine myself, but I'm a disabled vet. I don't want to get ripped off when I pay to have it done.
Where do you live?
@@hummernutsfl I live in Arizona sir.
@@IronSharpensIron127 darn. I love teaching guys how to do it. Not very difficult, really. Just attention to detail and being super clean. The factory book is really good.
@y