I'll be watching all of your videos. I inherited an original 48 2a from a family member that was the original owner. It has been sitting since 95 and is due for a restoration. Original color was Luzon red. The engine has been changed at some point but it's not red, it's kind of a light bluish color. I even have the original hubs for it as well as the hand crank starter.
Another great video Scott! You made some great points especially regarding followers, convex face plus returning good used ones to their original placement & not mixing them up. Some observations that may help others: 1. When removing valve keepers [sometimes when just doing a valve regrind] lay paper towel or rag along the valley so dropped keepers don't just disappear. 2. Removing main bearing caps ~ note the lettering or numbers on the caps so that are put back the right way round. Reversing will cause shaft lockup when re-assembling as tunnel is no longer round &/or concentric. 3. From around 22.00 ~ 23.00 note the 5 or 6? dowels that locate the main bearings shells. Can't remember now the last Jeep engine I did, was a long time ago. These stepped dowels are held in the cap or block by smaller drillings in the bearing shell. These dowels are sometimes missing or get lost on disassembly. Not fitting dowels on reassembly ~ bearing shells will spin & block off oil supply. 4. @ about 22.00 the BEARING CAPS show just one hole in each of the bearing shells. These holes are for holding the dowels in place 5. @ about 23.00 the bearing shells in the ENGINE BLOCK have 2 holes one for the dowel & one for oil feed. This feed is not only for the main bearings, but feeds off through the crank to adjoining connecting rod bearings. 1 main feeds con rod 1, 2 main [or middle] feeds con rods 2&3 + 3 main [or rear] feeds con rod 4. 6. A trap for young players is that these cap & block bearing shells will interchange [when they shouldn't] & if this is done inadvertently, oil supply to the main & adjoining connecting rod bearings will be blocked off. Oil pressure gauge will show great oil pressure! 7. If done incorrectly or dowels are left out the engine will be promptly destroyed.
I have a 46 CJ2A that I plan on pulling and rebuilding the motor, and this video is my new best friend for it. Love the channel, inspiring for me to get mine done. Tub is sitting in the crate, if the cold weather would leave now I'd be set!
I've got my (late) Great Uncle's '46 Willys CJ-2A "Jeannette" named after my Great Grandmother. Poor thing, she's seen better days & is going to need a LOT of work. But, she runs & gets me to & from the grocery store (and ONE drinkin' establishment 2 years ago). Good luck with your project Brandon and PEACE to all from Aurora, CO!
Today in my July 1943 Willys MB adventure, I snapped 2/3 bolts on thermostat housing. Every one hour job is one snapped bolt away from an all day job...
I loved this video. It was just the way it should be done. Only thing I would add is there might be the need for a ridge reamer to remove a cylinder ridge at the top of the cylinder? This is normally the area that is above the piston ring travel and did not have the very common piston ring wear.
This is gonna be a good help when I will take apart my CJ2 a h - 46 The engine dont turn. It have not run in many years, and stod still in a slight angle front down in a garage.
Great video! my problem is finding a machine shop in my area that I can trust with the L134 in my MB.Its kind of like being all geared up and ready to go fishing but its raining cats and dogs outside 😞.
Fabulous video with great lighting and camera work. Thanks! One question - my new-to-me 49 CJ3a has a governor on it (that’s been disconnected) but no PTO unit. Is this unusual? I thought the two always appeared together.
A rebuild video would be very handy, including elusive part numbers and/or equivalents! For Jeep owners who are NOT trained mechanics these videos are very helpful!
Oh & I forgot to mention when refitting the distributor clean up the bore & use Kopr Kote or similar smeared on the distributor shaft body. And the splash shield ~ Spacers are essential & are these bolts the same as the rest of the oil pan? Be careful refitting that these bolts DO NOT damage the timing cover as sometimes happens when the spacer is left out.
I was wondering how much you would charge to rebuild one of these engines? I have a 47 cj2a and I don't want to get overpriced. Thank you for the video.
Engine had 6.2:1 compression ratio to most likely cope with the worst fuel available during the conflict. Maybe down to 80 octane or even worst. Wondering if it wouldn't be possible to slightly raise CR in order to gain a bit of torque while still running 87 octane regular unleaded fuel (US standard). What about 7.5:1 ? What do you guys think?
Hi Scott, I have been enjoying your videos and thanks for sharing. Quick question: I took my 1945 CJ2a out of the barn where it has been sitting since 1983 and put some oil in each spark plug hole. When I turn the engine over with a socket handle on the hand crank boss I seem to run into a hard stop in both directions. Any thoughts? It almost feels like I get through all 4 cycles before the stop. Thanks , Andy
Sounds like your rings are either rusted or have made a ridge in the cylinder wall. That’s a long time to sit. I’m glad your attending to it. You say a 45 2A? That’s impressive and a sought after Jeep. Not many out there . My suggestion, first soak the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil. Be patient, see if that helps. Soak for a few days and turn. If that doesn’t work, pull the head and look inside. Thanks for watching my friend. Let me know how it turns... literally, out👍
angela leblanc thank you. Soak the area over days with PB Blaster or Kroil. A 50/50 mix of acetone and brake fluid works as well. Patience!!! That is the key. Soak it faithfully for days.
Valves in the head is standard now ... but in the past valves were always in the block ... some industrial motors (like forklifts) sill have valves in the block
@@markbarnard1399 soak the pistons with PB blaster or equivalent. A mix 50/50 with acetone and transmission fluid will do the trick also. Be patient, let it soak. Tap with a wood block and hammer.
Ya I bought a old bronco and the lock secured the spare tire. I cut the carrier and took the lock to a locksmith who made a key. It's brass and he polished it up. I'll dig it out and try posting a photo on here if it's ok with you.
I was on-board until I got tired of hearing about part numbers of trivial shit and the dimensions of every bolt in it. I guess that this is what you do when you are trying to appear smarter than your watchers.....
@@TeamG503 - - I'm glad you side-stepped that comment from pat jones. Don't listen to the haters & keep doing what you do please. Your wealth of knowledge is just that & I'm sure many people don't feel you are trying to appear smarter than anyone else. I can't believe the gall of some people.
Glad you gave dimensions on bolts and studs. All of my originals disappeared after 23 years.
This man is in love with this engine and I wonder if his wife now that.Thanks and be safe.
I'll be watching all of your videos.
I inherited an original 48 2a from a family member that was the original owner. It has been sitting since 95 and is due for a restoration. Original color was Luzon red. The engine has been changed at some point but it's not red, it's kind of a light bluish color. I even have the original hubs for it as well as the hand crank starter.
Fantastic. Welcome to the Family 👍👍👍👍👍
Another great video Scott! You made some great points especially regarding followers, convex face plus returning good used ones to their original placement & not mixing them up.
Some observations that may help others:
1. When removing valve keepers [sometimes when just doing a valve regrind] lay paper towel or rag along the valley so dropped keepers don't just disappear.
2. Removing main bearing caps ~ note the lettering or numbers on the caps so that are put back the right way round.
Reversing will cause shaft lockup when re-assembling as tunnel is no longer round &/or concentric.
3. From around 22.00 ~ 23.00 note the 5 or 6? dowels that locate the main bearings shells. Can't remember now the last Jeep engine I did, was a long time ago.
These stepped dowels are held in the cap or block by smaller drillings in the bearing shell.
These dowels are sometimes missing or get lost on disassembly. Not fitting dowels on reassembly ~ bearing shells will spin & block off oil supply.
4. @ about 22.00 the BEARING CAPS show just one hole in each of the bearing shells. These holes are for holding the dowels in place
5. @ about 23.00 the bearing shells in the ENGINE BLOCK have 2 holes one for the dowel & one for oil feed. This feed is not only for the main bearings, but feeds off through the crank to adjoining connecting rod bearings. 1 main feeds con rod 1, 2 main [or middle] feeds con rods 2&3 + 3 main [or rear] feeds con rod 4.
6. A trap for young players is that these cap & block bearing shells will interchange [when they shouldn't] & if this is done inadvertently, oil supply to the main & adjoining connecting rod bearings will be blocked off. Oil pressure gauge will show great oil pressure!
7. If done incorrectly or dowels are left out the engine will be promptly destroyed.
I have a 46 CJ2A that I plan on pulling and rebuilding the motor, and this video is my new best friend for it. Love the channel, inspiring for me to get mine done. Tub is sitting in the crate, if the cold weather would leave now I'd be set!
I've got my (late) Great Uncle's '46 Willys CJ-2A "Jeannette" named after my Great Grandmother. Poor thing, she's seen better days & is going to need a LOT of work. But, she runs & gets me to & from the grocery store (and ONE drinkin' establishment 2 years ago). Good luck with your project Brandon and PEACE to all from Aurora, CO!
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge, and waiting for the assembly video
I soak bolts with penetrating oil for a couple weeks. Amazing results but it does take a couple weeks at least on bad stuff. WOOD shims! Brilliant.
Today in my July 1943 Willys MB adventure, I snapped 2/3 bolts on thermostat housing. Every one hour job is one snapped bolt away from an all day job...
There should be 86k likes, great video
Really cool. Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks, just getting to that point in the restoration . Great video!
ron hatch Thank You👍
I loved this video. It was just the way it should be done. Only thing I would add is there might be the need for a ridge reamer to remove a cylinder ridge at the top of the cylinder? This is normally the area that is above the piston ring travel and did not have the very common piston ring wear.
Great walk through- thanks!
Excellent tutorial. I hope to be brave enough to have a crack at this.
best video on CZcams! so awesome!!
Great video. Thank you
Great video! Thanks !!!
Excellent video - very helpful
Ron Ruethain Thank You👍
EXCELENTE INFORMACIÓN,GRACIAS
This is gonna be a good help when I will take apart my CJ2 a h - 46
The engine dont turn. It have not run in many years, and stod still in a slight angle front down in a garage.
Good vid part #s are a plus
God bless you man ❤🙏
Thank you!
From Brazil 🔟🛠👍👏👏👏
GOOD INFO
Great video! my problem is finding a machine shop in my area that I can trust with the L134 in my MB.Its kind of like being all geared up and ready to go fishing but its raining cats and dogs outside 😞.
Awesome!
THANK YOU !!!!
Excellent
Fredy Reina Bolivar Thank You Sir.
Keep them videos coming
muito bom..
Nice 👍👍👍
Fabulous video with great lighting and camera work. Thanks! One question - my new-to-me 49 CJ3a has a governor on it (that’s been disconnected) but no PTO unit. Is this unusual? I thought the two always appeared together.
You'll pick up a few more horsepower (well 5 or 6 maybe) being .060 or .080 over too! :)
Hi Scott - I love this video. Have you made a video on the re-build of the engine yet? Thanks Ron
Ron
Just started a mini series on rebuilding. Check out the Cylinder sleeve vid I just posted. More to come soon.
Thank you for watching 👍
A rebuild video would be very handy, including elusive part numbers and/or equivalents! For Jeep owners who are NOT trained mechanics these videos are very helpful!
Great Video. Can you tell me the orientation of the connecting rod? There is a small oil hole at one side of the connecting rod..
I WANT The Ford GPW Engine
Is there a video to install the engine?
Oh & I forgot to mention when refitting the distributor clean up the bore & use Kopr Kote or similar smeared on the distributor shaft body.
And the splash shield ~ Spacers are essential & are these bolts the same as the rest of the oil pan? Be careful refitting that these bolts DO NOT damage the timing cover as sometimes happens when the spacer is left out.
I was wondering how much you would charge to rebuild one of these engines? I have a 47 cj2a and I don't want to get overpriced. Thank you for the video.
Engine had 6.2:1 compression ratio to most likely cope with the worst fuel available during the conflict. Maybe down to 80 octane or even worst. Wondering if it wouldn't be possible to slightly raise CR in order to gain a bit of torque while still running 87 octane regular unleaded fuel (US standard). What about 7.5:1 ? What do you guys think?
Could you pass me the tightening specifications (torque and order) of the engine cap? my engine is Continental 4cc Flat head cj3a! thanks
Hi Scott, I have been enjoying your videos and thanks for sharing. Quick question: I took my 1945 CJ2a out of the barn where it has been sitting since 1983 and put some oil in each spark plug hole. When I turn the engine over with a socket handle on the hand crank boss I seem to run into a hard stop in both directions. Any thoughts? It almost feels like I get through all 4 cycles before the stop. Thanks , Andy
Sounds like your rings are either rusted or have made a ridge in the cylinder wall. That’s a long time to sit. I’m glad your attending to it. You say a 45 2A? That’s impressive and a sought after Jeep. Not many out there . My suggestion, first soak the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil. Be patient, see if that helps. Soak for a few days and turn. If that doesn’t work, pull the head and look inside.
Thanks for watching my friend. Let me know how it turns... literally, out👍
What piston and bearing you use? Oversize 10 20 or 30?
Welcome to Project Ford GPW 70311
@
Hi! Don’t know if this is still being monitored, but I was hoping for tips for a really stuck head gasket!? Thanks 🙏🏼
What did you use to free up the distributor mine is stuck big time. Love the video
angela leblanc thank you.
Soak the area over days with PB Blaster or Kroil.
A 50/50 mix of acetone and brake fluid works as well.
Patience!!! That is the key. Soak it faithfully for days.
mi have a normal head for willy jeep l134 engine! with no valves on head? it on the block? any ideal? as far as i know valves are on the head!!
Valves in the head is standard now ... but in the past valves were always in the block ... some industrial motors (like forklifts) sill have valves in the block
What if the two center piston assemblies are frozen and you cannot turn the crank shaft to access the connecting rods?
@@markbarnard1399 soak the pistons with PB blaster or equivalent.
A mix 50/50 with acetone and transmission fluid will do the trick also. Be patient, let it soak. Tap with a wood block and hammer.
I know the three bolts around the camshaft are 3/8 UNC but what is the correct length? I can't seem to find them anywhere in the SNL.
Jeep Jockey Part # 6412 Bolt 3/8-16 x “3/4” (engine plate to cylinder block)
@@TeamG503 cheers guys. Out of curiosity, where are they in the SNL?
Jeep Jockey I found them in the Master Parts Manual👍
@@TeamG503 cheers. I haven't got that one.
Jeep Jockey when I get back to the shop, I will post a pic of it in the community section of the channel.👍
Where can i get a replacement engine for a ford gpw? IS that possible to buy one.
Thomas William yes. Ron Fitzpatrick Jeep Parts has a Completely Rebuilt Ford GPW In Stock at the moment 👍
Ron Fitzpatrick Jeep Parts currently has an original, professionally rebuilt GPW Engine in stock. Call Ron at 1 800 600 5337
Worst case scenario Kaiser willy's offers a brand new reproduction L134 block
👍👍👍🇧🇪
Any idea what a F script pad lock is worth?
41magfan I had no idea there was such a thing. Maybe post a picture.
Ya I bought a old bronco and the lock secured the spare tire. I cut the carrier and took the lock to a locksmith who made a key. It's brass and he polished it up. I'll dig it out and try posting a photo on here if it's ok with you.
23:35 Sometimes you can save tappets with a special resurfacing machine:
czcams.com/video/K1FXQ3qFFCY/video.html
I was on-board until I got tired of hearing about part numbers of trivial shit and the dimensions of every bolt in it. I guess that this is what you do when you are trying to appear smarter than your watchers.....
Not at all Pat,
We get asked constantly about bolt sizes and part numbers. The idea was that the video be used for a stoppable and usable reference.
Wow, what an arrogant prick you are Pat. Some people need that knowledge that he provides, but hey, I guess you already KNOW that too, huh?
@@TeamG503 - - I'm glad you side-stepped that comment from pat jones. Don't listen to the haters & keep doing what you do please. Your wealth of knowledge is just that & I'm sure many people don't feel you are trying to appear smarter than anyone else. I can't believe the gall of some people.
Ummmm.... Fuck off?
BR549
67YG76
AND 69
See my earlier comment....