Creality Cr10S PRO - Fix your bed leveling issues (Inductive sensor install)
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- This is step by step tutorial how to change capacitive auto level sensor on the Creality CR10S PRO 3D printer to the more precise inductive sensor and how to perfectly level your CR10S PRO 3D printer and solve leveling problems and issues with the first layer.
Get your CR10S PRO inductive sensor from:
Amazon - amzn.to/2ThV6To
Banggood - bit.ly/3fwAlup
Aliexpress - bit.ly/32osLhA
Get your Creality CR10S PRO 3D printer from:
Banggood:
Creality CR10S PRO -- bit.ly/2WtsoP7
Aliexpress
Creality CR10S PRO -- bit.ly/3jaycXA
Amazon:
Creality CR10S PRO -- amzn.to/2VO2Ytx
CR10S PRO S3D printing profile - goo.gl/Cq7FLL
Popular Online retailers:
Amazon.com - amzn.to/3k08g0K
Amazon.ca - amzn.to/3c3efiJ
Amazon.de - amzn.to/3rnvj9l
Amazon.co.uk - amzn.to/3blB2qY
Amazon.se - amzn.to/3bhU55l
Aliexpress - bit.ly/2GWF50w
Banggood - bit.ly/2T0R8fG
Ebay - ebay.us/OJuoTs
Make your prints stick to the bed:
PrintaStick adhesion stick -- goo.gl/UQLuX4
If you need cheap filament for your 3D printer check links below:
PLA filament for 3D printer
On Amazon - amzn.to/2K6U99U
On Banggood - bit.ly/2pZSiwK
PETG filament for 3D printer
On Amazon - amzn.to/36RHEsz
on Aliexpress - bit.ly/3h8AYLa
ABS Filament for 3D printer
On Amazon - amzn.to/2K5S4LH
On Banggood - bit.ly/2CurLuc
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Nexi
Important info! Please read it.
1. Make sure that you order the right inductive sensor. Check the model number: LJ18A3-8-Z/BX , diameter 18mm DC 6-36V, NPN NO(Normal Open), Detect Object : Iron (Metal)
Test your sensor before you connect to the printer!
It seems that there are different variations of these sensors and wrong one could damage your printer motherboard.
Here is how to test it:
Take any power supply source from 6-36V, Take some power adapter in your home, like laptop power adapter for example. Connect blue to negative and brown to positive but leave the black wire out free. Now take the multimeter and check blue wire (negative) with the brown(positive) Voltage should be 23-24V.
Now check blue wire (negative) with black wire(positive) and voltage should be the same 23-25V (Circuit open)
Now place metal object on the sensor head. Led light should activate and voltage between blue and black(free) wire where it was 23-25V should drop close to or to 0V and voltage between blue (negative) and brown (positive) should remain around 24V.
If your sensor don't work like that DON'T INSTALL it!
That means you got different type of sensor like PNP or other type. Check test pictures on the link: goo.gl/q6Mfcy
2. Lower the inductive sensor more down to 3mm or less away from Heat-bed.
In that case nozzle will be higher up and chances that nozzle touch or hit the heat-bed surface is minimal and it will give you even more precise measurements.
2. Upgrade the firmware to the latest one from Creality right now the latest version is 1.60.7(Works great and it saves all Autolevel probe measurements and Z offset and it shows them after power off...
Here is how to upgrade CR10S PRO firmware: It's very easy.
1. Connect printer via USB cable to the CURA.
2. Click on Settings/Printer/Manage Printers/Select Cr10S 3D printer/Upgrade Firmware/Upload custom Firmware/Select firmware file CR-10SPro_1.60.7.hex and run it.
3. Wait minut or two...
Done!
1.60.7 Firmware can be found here: www.creality3d.cn/creality3d-cr-10s-pro-p00253p1.html
Also I got alot of questions about inductive sensor and glass so here is my answer:
This Inductive sensor will work with glass sheet over the aluminum heated bed, but glass needs to be less then 2.9mm thick. The thinner the better. When sensor trigger on 2.85mm glass you have 0.5mm clearance from nozzle. It's not too much but it can work if you can't found thinner glass.
Personally I use 2mm glass(1.92mm actually) and sensor triggers 1.35mm away from the glass bed. I have alot of clearance. Here are few photos with my 2mm glass where sensor triggers and how I set it up.
drive.google.com/folderview?id=1z4Okyd85OK-rolp2ZkaUS3xgqnzXZtaE
Will this work with a glass bed? Was wondering if you tried it with glass?I'm getting the sensor today. Looks like it would read through glass, but hoping for verification before I install it tonight
Vlog Dog Actually Inductive sensor will work with glass sheet, but glass needs to be less then 2.9mm thick. The thinner the better. When sensor trigger on 2.85mm glass you have 0.5mm clearance from nozzle. It's not too much but it can work if you can't found thinner glass.
Personally I use 2mm glass(1.92mm actually) and sensor triggers 1.35mm away from the glass bed. I have alot of clearance. Here are few photos with my 2mm glass where sensor triggers.
drive.google.com/folderview?id=1z4Okyd85OK-rolp2ZkaUS3xgqnzXZtaE
@@NexiTech thank you! I am very excited to try it. Will let you know of my result
Sadly glass is a no go. So close to working. Out foil under glass too. Just not enough. Tried two glass beds. Stock bed working fine so far. May try PEI as I hear good things
Where can you find the latest firmware? The one I downloaded from Creality website is V1.60.3 instead of 7.
My apologies for the run-on comment, I have a whole lot to say. I just wanted to thank you for your outstanding video quality. It seems that you are the only consistent budget reviewer, as you never seem to be biased, always supply the needed info about the subject machine, and never include useless filler info. Test prints are always shown in your videos, and the content "flows" well. You have been gradually improving your upload quality as well. 4K footage, clear audio, and detailed shots. I love watching your videos while making progress on academic work, as your voice is gentle, quiet, and un-interruptive, and you rarely include loud background music. Once again, my apologies for the lengthy comment, but I just have been so pleased with your recent content. Keep the videos coming!
Nexi is Always my go to channel for reviews ...bought my 1st printer on the strength of his review and it has been a brilliant experience
@@enochroot9438 I also bought my printers based on Nexi video's. Great job and thank you
Benjamin my friend you have nothing to apologies for. First of all thank you so much for such kind and positive comment. I have read your comment at least 3 times. People like you give me positive energy and will to continue my work and stay on You-tube. I do my best to improve even more in future. I wish you all the best my friend and thank you so much again for your kind words.
@@NexiTech Seriously just gained a new sub and can't wait to check out your videos as Benjamin is exactly correct on every aspect of your video! Just what I was looking for! I will now get this sensor for this printer I was considering when I order it.
I agree. This could be my own comment almost! Nexi Tech is a great channel!
Just wanted to drop in and say this works great. I did this upgrade in conjunction with the T8 antibacklash nut (also done by Nexi Tech) and I can literally turn my printer on and just print. No need to level everything again. Absolutely awesome. You can also use a 3 pin JST connector instead of cutting the cable on the old sensor. This is what I did, and the JST connector fit just fine in the same socket as the old connector.
I used this video 5 years ago to upgrade my machine. The part just failed today, and I was at a loss as to what I had done. So a huge thank you FOR A SECOND TIME for posting this video. :)
This video has been a huge life saver even these many years later. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge. Getting this new sensor has brought back the pleasure of using my printer. Many, many thanks.
I've done so many upgrades now that I no longer call my printer "CR-10s pro v2", but instead, I call it "Nexi-mon". Love your videos and expertise!
I did the upgrade to an inductive sensor, and Z anti backlash springs. Finally, the printer works just as I would expect operation to go. I did add a G29 to my startup gcode and that was the final bit of magic to make it work great. I am using Tiny Machines 3D code (1.1.9 B7).
Thank You, Nexi!!!!!
My OEM level sensor failed and this was an easy fix that cost me less than $10. Great video, easy to follow! The only downside is that I had to give up my glass build plate. This sensor will not see the glass. I used my original aluminum one and removed the ripped up sticker. To be honest printing on aluminum is not that bad. Through the years I have learned that the best adhesion is getting the z-offset dialed in to give you a good squashed bead of material on the 1st layer. Also, a bunch of hair spray doesn't hurt. I highly recommend this sensor as a cheap easy alternative to the original one. The bltouch sensor seems a lot of work to install with connections to the board, jumper for the old connection, a custom printed holder and flashing the unit with additional software. This solution is a far easier and cheaper option and gives you much-improved level sensing. It took me less than 15 min to install this after sodering the old connector to the new sensor and I was printing again.
Thank you so much. I just sent back my first CR-10S Pro due to the fact I could not get consistent prints. It seemed the printer would not stay level. I'm definitely going to replace the auto level sensor with the one from the link when my replacement printer arrives.
My first printer was a Ender 3 Pro and it has been a dream. it floors me how poor the setup was for the new CR-10S Pro was. When my printer arrived all the Z rode screws had fallen out and the fan was broken. Talk about some poor quality control
Can't wait to try out your tips. Keep up the good work
I would like to thank you for the best cr10s pro video I have ever seen, I have had my printer for just over a year, but because I just could not level this beast I gave up and just left it alone. but and I don't mean anything bad, but because of this virus that is spreading around the world, and as I have decided to just stay indoors, so the printer was given a new life, you have made my day, thank you
This video completely turned around my initial bed-leveling issues with factory sensor. I was getting few mm deviations over consecutive levellings. But with new inductive sensor, the deviations came down to less than 0.2 mm with repeated levellings. Been churning out good PLA prints easily, for past few days, since replacing the sensor. Btw, I didn't even solder; just twisted the bare wires & insulated with electrical tape - works perfectly. Thanks!
Your Videos are excellent. I just got a CR-10S Pro and before it arrived I watched this video and ordered the Inductive sensor. I got the sensor a couple of days after so I was having the same issue with the inconsistent first layers. I followed your video here and also upgrade the Firmware to Tiny Machines 3D version and things are running incredible.
Thank you so much for helping the community.
Between this and adding the anti-backlash spring bolts my $75 marketplace CR10S pro is printing beautifully.
Just purchased the inductive sensor! looks like a must have, and for $9 you cant go wrong!
The best video explaining leveling of this machine so far.
I bought the inductive sensor and I have watched this no less than three times, guess I am brave enough to try it this week. So sick of having to put on reading magnifier glasses, get a bright lamp and adjust Z on every start of every print, or else I get a ball of fuzz and no parts. Thanks Nexi you are great. Next Firmware maybe???
OK I did it but I forgot to cut the new connector cable down I just coiled it up for now. I also added the upper Z axis pulleys and belt to keep the Z drives tied together. But the belt is floppy seems we need to design and print a belt guide and tensioner fastened to the Alumin bar about midway. I can't say a saw a big difference it seems my nozzle will ooze filament during the calibration of the bed by the time we get to the first layer the ozzing has turrned into a blob and can cause the first layer to lift and then the whole thing becomes a mess. Think I will do an update on the Firmware. Need to validate my Version I think it is 1.60.1 but I can't recall. Thanks for a great video. Dennis
I tried to update to 1.7 on the firmware. OMG! This is sort archaic to me. I could only get the touch pad updated. Looking in side the steel housing i was shocked to see such short alum tubes for the sides of the Baseframe and the cross extrusion tying the ends of that frame and they were tiny small. Maybe we can get some bigger and longer parts to replace the ones underneath. Now tomorrow, i need to how to install the controller 1.7 update. Argh!
Is this sensor anything like the New Prusa SuperPINDA, My Leveling is still working great with this $10 Sensor, Prusa wants $30-40 for the PINDA?????? Is it a better sensor??? Dennis
Wanted to say thank you. My printer would stop working every winter (it gets quite cold where I am). That stupid capacitive sensor is affected by moisture and temperature. Using the inductive sensor is working very well.
Dude, this is the best video I have seen in a 3d printer tutorial, I have this exact same printer and I was getting depressed about the sensor. I am going to buy the sensor and follow your guide! Thank you so much. Earned a subscriber, do you have a donation page so I can buy you a beer?
Thank you so much man! No problem I'm glad that I helped. Welcome on board :)
Well if you really like to donate a bit here is my Thingiverse page. www.thingiverse.com/Nexi-Tech/about
This guy deserve Nobel prize.
When you pull the old sensor out, tape a piece of string to it and pull that through. Use the string to pull the new one back through the covering. It's a little easier.
You saved my sanity! I had a faulty capacitive one that finally died. I didn't know what was going on until one day it wouldn't stop going down on Y axis, pushing into the the bed. I changed it with an inductive one and woks like a Swiss watch. Although, I'm not sure it's going to get along with a glass bed.
Just did this mod, and so far it is working fantastically with my Wham Bam Flexi system.
Had to start with the sensor lower than level with the hotend otherwise it would decide to smash into the build surface and need an emergency power off to avoid damage. Once I did that I was able to adjust normally like you did - my offset is sitting at -3.90 with the Wham Bam plate and the sensor 2mm higher than the hot end.
I had to lower the sensor also, thanks for posting!
This is a great upgrade video, and I thank you for taking the time to make it. That said, I have reservations about cutting and soldering part of the electronics which, as you say, is required to perform the upgrade.
The CR-10S Pro is a relatively new printer, however, so hopefully Creality3D will sell an upgrade kit soon to avoid any DIY work.
I just finished this changing of the sensor and works as it should. Also tested the sensor (Banggood version with blue end and black wire) first with a multimeter, as you told should be done. I also did the 3x fans change earlier too. Great work doing the video! Thanks!
Also noticed that it's best to tighten the 4x wheels under the bed many turns before any leveling, or home point setting, because then there's some thread available to adjust them. Before, I had the bed almost at the highest position, so there wasn't thread left in the screws to adjust it, as the wheels would just be rolling loose. (Beginner tip).
Fantastic ! I wish I would see your video before I sent this piece of crap back to Amazon for a reimbursment because of all the frustrations and anger I felt with bed leveling.
Hey Bud, just followed your instructions and replaced my sensor with the inductive one from amazon. BIG THANKS! I actually got a better price on amazon canada for it! One thing to note, the plastic flat bar used for leveling sensor and sides, with my unit for whatever reason, with the nozzle sitting on a .2mm feeler and that plastic bar under my sensor the sensor does not engage, its just slightly too large of a gap, i tried it as is with apprehension, that was a mistake lol, punch a hole right down through the creality bed release cover and into the aluminum bed under it.. just a small damage, but enough that ill probably replace it now. my own fault for not being ready with something metal to put under sensor in case of emergency. live and learn. i ended up dropping it down like .3mm more towards the bed and set a Z offset to match the new height, printing my first test print now. so far so good.
Thanks again. video was great detail and very easy to follow.
Hello. Do you have a link for the sensor on amazon canada ?. Thanks in advance
Ya man for sure, URBEST LJ18A3-8-Z/BX 8mm Inductive Proximity Switch 3 Wire NPN NO DC 6-36V Cylinder Approach Sensor www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XRSV6XG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-LrHCbY1KGXRF half the cost compaired to ordering from .com to Canada that is. Mine is working great, I leveled it once and now haven't really touched it in 2 days. Very happy with this upgrade.
One thing to notice is that your inductive sensor will not detect the build tack layer and only the aluminum under it (probably the reason for the little offset) now things go really south if like me your bed has a glass sheet in which case the inductive sensor is useless and the main reason that I still use capacitive sensors. Yes they are to some point a pain, but if you set the profile correctly in your slicer chances to have a bad first layer are non existent. But like someone mentioned I think a Bltouch will be better for bed leveling.
Nature boy Actually Inductive sensor will work with glass, but glass needs to be less then 2.9mm thick. The thinner the better. When sensor trigger on 2.85mm glass you have 0.5mm clearance from nozzle. It's not too much but it can work if you can't found thiner glass.
Personally I use 2mm glass(1.92mm actually) and sensor triggers 1.35mm away from the glass bed. I have alot of clearance. Here are few photos with my 2mm glass where sensor triggers.
How you adjust the sensor to remember a new position - the old sensor has a screw and light the new does not. I do all stuff bought exactly the same sensor and install .. but won't remember the new position - I see you pressing the "z home" button but the printer going to the latest setup position the new one. Thanks. My print head now touching the bed with the nozzle when go to 'Z home position"
I have been waiting for a video like this for some time. This is a great tutorial and I am excited to make the upgrade. Thank you sir.
Problema de Z-Home solucionado!
Excelente vídeo y guía, pero en mi caso cuando ingresaba al "Leveling Mode", hacía las dos primeras mediciones bien y a la tercera se estrellaba contra la cama y continuaba bajando, intentaba ajustando al altura del sensor una y otra vez y continuaba pasando lo mismo.
Revisé que el sensor fuera el mismo de la referencia, ya que como lo había comprado del enlace de AliExpress me confíe, pero era la misma referencia, entonces pasé a leer comentarios y todos hablaban de que había que cambiar la board y estaba asustado hasta que encontré el comentario de Michael Poelzl dónde decía que había tenido el mismo problema y cómo lo había solucionado, así que intenté una variación de su método que describiré a continuación:
Al entrar en "Leveling Mode" la impresora empieza a hacer el Z-Home, y cuando el carro iba a empezar a bajar la colocaba la galga para que detectara el sensor inductivo, hice lo mismo en las dos primeras veces y en la tercera vez que mide lo dejé bajar sin colocarle la galga, y miraba a que altura quedaba. Sí ven que se va a estrellar de nuevo apaguen la impresora antes de que se estrelle y vuelva a repetir.
Después de hacer el Z-HOME usando la galga para que detectara antes, oprimí varias veces Z+ para cambiar el offset y volví a repetir el procedimiento activar el sensor inductivo apenas empiece a bajar con la galga y después de terminado volví a oprimir el Z+ varias veces.
Para terminar volví a hacer el Z-HOME, pero está vez normal y el carro paró como a 15mm de la cama y con el Z- cuadré el offset a la distancia indicada.
Espero les sirva y cualquier cosa escriben por aquí.
Hola, gracias por tu aport,e yo tengo un problema similar, pero a mi me pasa que en la primera medición se estrella y se traba y de ahí no pasa hasta que la reinicie, te ha pasado algo similar?
Gracias de antemano!
The bltouch is still the superior abl probe, but i think for most users this is a very straight forward and easy to manage upgrade. Well done.
@derezzed thanks for your opinion. I like mine
First of all - This is a splendid and excellent video and very very thanks to that.
I just got my sensors today (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX) and was sooo hapy to get this sensor in my CR10-SPRO. Everything worked good so far. (I´ve decided to crimp my own 3-pin plug on the new sensor to keep the original sensor as it is... fine :)
But then the horrible next step to home the printer -> :(
Sensor works (turns on the LED on metal approach), but in process of "printer home" the z-axis does not stop to get lower and lower (LED is on) -> Nozzle on printbed :(
Printer off to save the motors
I tried to switch the sensor back -> Z-axis stops as it should - sensor again to the new inductive one -> the same game as described :(
Now I will try a second one, maybe the sensor is damaged?
Anyone else an idea?
thanks and greets from Austria
OK It was the sensor :) HEUREKA I ordered more than one piece and now it works well!!
Thank you again for this awsome and perfect tutorial :)
What type of 3 pin plug did you use. I have some JST XHP plugs and i don't think those are the right ones. I would like to keep our original sensor intact also.
@@georgeschneider2702 I used those JST XHP aswell - yes they are not the 100% correct plugs, but they are working well and orig sensor can be left as orig ;)
I have same problem, first sensor goes down and up and after setting it with a shim and after pressing home z it crashed into bed.. you sure its the sensor? Hope i dont have to wait another 2 months from ebay to arrive :((
Exceptionally well done! Clear video and audio. Thank you for using the correct tools. I definitely bookmarks this video!
If your printer crashes into the bed when trying to adjust the z level then read this!
Maybe I am not very clever but it took me while to realise that pressing the 'Z home' button will NOT reset the z axis offset. It only runs the z homing routine again and if the z offset is wrong it will happily crash into the bed. The only thing that changes the z offset are the Z+ and Z- buttons. Unfortunately it does not tell you anywhere what that value is.
So in my case the nozzle always crashed into the bed when I tried to set the new z offset. The reason was that my previous probe was setup in such a way that I ended up with a large negative z offset as the correct setting. With the new probe (which does not have an adjustment screw) this meant that once the probe triggered there still was a large movement downwards which made the probe crash into the bed. I solved this by taking the probe out of the housing completely so that is was dangling on the side. Holding it in my hand I moved it much lower and closer to the bed so that the sensor was triggered way before the nozzle reached the bed when starting the levelling.
So now with the first 'levelling' complete I then hit the Z+ button a lot of times to get the large negative offset back to something normal. To check the progress I used 'Z home' a few times (holding the sensor with my hand in an appropriate position below the nozzle) until the downward movement after the sensor trigger was small enough so that I could be sure the nozzle would not crash. Then i was in a position to continue the setup as per the video i.e. I popped the probe back into the housing and set it level with the nozzle. I then used the Z- button to lower the probe to the hight I wanted it at by using a piece of plastic underneath. Once there, I loosened the probe screws and again used the Z- button to bring the nozzle to the correct distance from the bed (with the probe being pushed up). I then retightened the probe screws and ran another 'Z home' to check the setup.
Thanks for this post Michael, the clarification is very helpful!
I have the same thing happening to me, thank you for you post. Before I try this, if you take out the probe completely so it doesn't get triggered at all, won't the head move into the bed? Is there a mechanical z-stop or something?
@@sharky0817 Sorry I should have been clearer. The probe MUST still stop the downward movement! So when you take it out just hold it in your hand and move it down so that it will trigger way before the nozzle reaches the bed. The idea is that once it has triggered (the light comes on) you can see how much further the nozzle will travel down after it has triggered. You can then adjust and repeat (holding the probe to the side in an approximate position) until you can be sure there is no risk of collision. Then you can put it back in and do the fine tuning.
The general idea is that at no point do you want the sensor to trigger 'late' where the saved z adjustment will make the nozzle move into the bed.
I've edited the post to make it clearer.
@@michaelpoelzl2318 Got you! I've got the sensor installed now and it is working well and reliable, now it seems my next problem is that the bed is very warped, the autolevel shows values from +2.xx to -1.xx across the bed.... Getting some alu tape and then off to new adventures...
Thanks you very much, fixed!!!
Another great review and fix, I'm sold on that inductive sensor. Great find!
Damn it Nexi now you make me feel like I need to replace my probe! Great video as always.
Thank you Duf :) Best Regards man!
I have a mirror bed and it's working but be careful to place sensor at about a credit card thickness, I forgot that it detects only metal so I placed it 8mm high at first, and when I Homed, the thing pressed so much on the bed that I tought I'd break the mirror or the motors or bend something on Z axis :(
I'm always wondering why Chinese brands make this kind of mistakes. A bltouch would have done the trick much better, because it works really well whatever kind of surface you are using on your plate. I have a BIQU Thunder Advanced and I though that I had almost same issues with autoleveling, but no, it was just my fault using that feature hehehe. It would be great to see a side by side analisys of both machines in your channel. Great video, by the way.
very cut to the chase, direct, clear, step by step instructions
thanks for the effort.
Glad you like it my friend. Thanks for your comment.
I finally got my sensor from Banggood. Over a steel desktop the sensor triggers around 8mm as expected. I tested over a 3mm thick Mamorubot build plate that I ordered from TinyMachines along with my printer. The sensor triggers 1mm above the build plate. Installed and tested and it works fine. I will see over time if this sensor is more consistent than the capacitive one.
Very nice explanation but you can do a lot simpler, you can change the sensor without removing any screw in 5 minutes.
- loose the two screws of the sensor and remove the sensor
- cut the cable of the sensor (approximately 5 cm from the sensor)
- solder the three wire of the new sensor
- put the new sensor and tight the two screws
it worked for me.
Good video, Tiny Machines 3D did a video a month or so ago with that same levelling procedure - can confirm it greatly improved my prints. Will def try the inductive sensor upgrade. Thanks for uploading!
I just bought the 3D printer with all the fix equipment you suggested. Now when I do the AUX leveling my Nozzel stay way far away for the heat bed surface like 5cm away! I followed you step by step but no look. Any help I'm really struggling with this printer.
Edit:
I fixed it by download Tiny firmware.
Great video, as always. After reading your recommendations. I would like a simpler explanation. Recommend to lower the sensor by 3mm (in the video it was positioned at 3.81 mm using the acrylic piece) 1) So the sensor is positioned at 0.81 from the bed? 2) Or can the sensor be positioned between 3 and 2 mm, for a more accurate positioning? Clarify this doubt, the first or second option? Sorry if I misinterpreted, but be patient, risk and impact the nozzle. I'm your fance, so I want advice. Thanks B.S.
Salvatore Bilotta Thanks mate,
Sensor works best when is like 3mm or less from heated bed, between 3mm and 2mm are just fine.
After close inspection when I was using 3.81mm acrylic piece+ BuildTak is like 0.4mm. That's 4.21mm which is too much for this sensor and on one place nozzle was slightly touching Heatbed. That's why I wrote comment and Pin it so that can be on the top for people to see.
Allright,
thank you really much :) You helped me so much... I ordered and replaced the old sensor with this one and my printer... Works again and is all the time good leveled :) :) Thumb up
btw. I use Tiny Machines Firmware now, with original from Creality were some troubles and nozzle was pressing too deep.. With Tiny works nicely
Personally, I have changed the SSR and fallowed the Th3d guide for calibrating the conductive sensor, and I now have consistent results.
What was the reason to change the SSR, was it indicated by TH3D? Or did you only follow their guide?
@@GELHammer Honestly, it is a bit of both. I read in the th3d support group that SSR leaks current which causes conductive sensor inaccuracy. th3d goes around this by turning off the bed during probing. Since I don't use their firmware, and I'm not sure if AC and DC SSRs the same, I removed it. The rest was blindly following TH3ds calibration method.
WOW got a link to that? might explain why I get a 1.5mm offset on an otherwise absolutely flat bed just on the left side. SO annoying. with the damned capacitive sensor :-)
@@ossme
ossme Guys upgrade your CR10S Pro with latest Creality firmware 1.60.7 version. Now it's shows Auto level measurements and Z offset all the time efter power off etc... It works great.
If you have one for the first Cr10S Pro(Like I have) change your sensor to the Inductive. New CR10S Pro units now are shipped with new inductive sensor insted of capacitive.
@@NexiTech Problem is you never know what batch of printers Banggood or AliExpress have stored in their warehouse, so it's like a lottery draw to get the inductive sensor.
Tu eres increible, muchisimas gracias por este video, y sobre todo de como actualizar la impresora usando el cura,no lo sabia y es muy facil de hacer, GRACIAS SIGUE ASI!!!! saludos desde españa
Thank you for the great video. However, I had some problems with the 3.8 mm spacer. My sensor seems to require something like 3mm to adjust the Z-axis offset. I don't knoe why. But now it's working well.
I finally got around to doing this. One question, after installing the inductive sensor you set the height using the plastic shim. For me that height was too high, I had to drop the sensor a lot more so it would get a activated when the nozzle was at bed height. I have Tiny Machines 3D PEI surface on the printer so maybe that is why? The sensor is only a few millimeters higher than the nozzle which I guess is ok but not what I expected based on your video.
Thank you so much for this. I have this machine and it was actually faulty at the start. I have the new parts and you explain setting up very well.
Glad that you found my video useful. Thanks for the comment.
Great! Thank you for your awesome Videos!
Thank you for commenting and for positive feedback :)
Would it be possible for you to share the 2 stl, the one with the 9 squares and the other with the disk please. And thx for the video, nice job it will help me a lot.
Loved your review of this machine ! Now watching this great job my friend. 👍😉 subbed ! ✌️😁
Thank you so much for this video and information. Could you please tell me how to get your testing G-code(s) they look great
Subscribed. I have a CR-10S Pro and once I get some more play time I want to get that same first layer.
Excellent video! As always! Do you have an aliexpress or banggood link for the sensor?
Nevermind, already bought from your ebay link. But this may help someone else.
luiztfc Thanks mate! I'm glad that you liked it :) Yes, I just add more links of the sensor in video description.
Amazing video!
I have a noob question.... I installed the inductive sensor, and noticed it has no adjustment screw like the capacitive sensor. Do I just set the nozzle height to 0.2mm and then move the inductive probe to the height where it just turns on?
You Can't adjust inductive sensors. I really don't see the point of this mod unless you're travelling with it from the desert to the rainforest. Seems pointless
@@OKeefeist even small changes in temperature and humidity can change capacitive probe outputs, but I can't recommend inductive sensors either, maybe a bltouch will work best
I ordered from the Amazon link you gave. The part I received has no model number on it. However the package is labelled 5mm Inductive Proximity Sensor. I performed your test procedure (thanks!) and found that is functions with the same polarities as you described. So its NPN/NO, Unfortunately it triggers about 2.9mm above the bare heated bed, not anywhere near 8mm. So, thoughts on whether this will work?
Worked like a champ
Awesome solution... Congratulations!!! :)
Love the video and I'm going to enhance my printer. Can you let me have your 2 g-codes for the bed leveling?
Hi, Great video. One question: I've done everything like you, but is it normal that the printer make the 16 points bed leveling at each print I start? thanks
Hi, top video !! Can you put on the description the Gcodes for the leveling test please ?
Thank you for this video! I'm currently tracking down all the tools needed (I have like none of them). Hopefully this is the last upgrade for my printer! (did micro swiss hotend, wham bam & fans)
Hey Andy G
Can you confirm that unductive sensor works with whambam? Im a bit worried because of the magnet of the wambam. Doesnt magnets interfere with inductive sensors?
Is there a way to get my hands on your two gcode test files?
You have awesome instructional videos. Could you possible show one that explains how to add an induction sensor to a cr-10s? I don't have the pro and can't find any really clear video so far
Thumbs up m8 again a super explication for fixing the sensor!
But can this sensor work with Glass plate also?
From crap prints to perfect using this video, FOLLOW the instructions and all will be perfect!
Great video! Would there be any issues in cutting the wire near the sensor end is of near the electric board end? If so, that would make the process easier.
Thanks for the great video! Way better with this sensor!
I was adjusting the bed with the shim an then I noticed something. That inductive sensor is so sensitive that you don’t really need to adjust using the shim on the four corners. I adjusted the middle using the shim then moved the sensor to just come on. Then moved to the corners to check height of bed and adjusted the bed screw till the sensor light just coms on. Did that on all corners .... went around twice. Then went back to the middle of the bed and moved up and down on software adjustment till shim was set ... the zeroed out the setting. Checked over all measurement with software. Almost all numbers were .0 + or -... Maybe that’s what you all ready do ... but a lot simpler. Thanks
@ 2:25: you can just use re-pin the connector and be done with it. This is the long way around it.
Great video. I will give it a good. 😀
Wow Amazing Help for my, Thanks, you can Share the start gcode please
You've helped me a lot, thank you.
Hello
Only thanks to your videos I ordered myself a CR-10S PRO. I hope all will be ok :).
Question: Why was the hot end fan cover replaced (blue element)?
It was probably replaced - I've seen reports where the original one may fall off from heat.
@@roblopatto7874
Hello
Thanks for the answer.
I did not know about it ...
Now I will know what to watch out for.
I printed a lot of ABS. Duct air nozzle was originally printer in PLA so it gets deformed so I print new one with PETG.
Why they don’t ship the CR10S pro with the BLtouch sensor ?
Would make the experience for me, or all the another beginners way way easier.......
Excellent work !
God... watching those first layer prints go so smoothly and then finish with that bed sized circle.....i think I cam a little...
Hahha You make my day! LOL
Great video along with the Fan replacement, I have followed both.. A question though.. I am using one of the sensors from your link, Banggood one, and I have done exactly as you have described.. only thing for me, when probing the Sensor stops well above the bed, when probing complete all looks fine on the screen.. and when I go to print the offset is -3.13 and the first layer wont go down.. Any ideas on what to do
Following your instructions my CR10S Pro works perfectly (almost). Occasionally I get a "clonck" from my extruder. This usually indicates it's too close to the previous layer and therefore can't dispense the filament it's moving forward. It happens not often but on a regular basis when printing the initial layer, and sometimes later in the print. Right now it happened at layer 6. I use 0,1 mm layers. It's not a problem but I wonder if you have an explanation. I have a CR-10S that doesn't do this on the exact same print. And I have a CR-10 S4 that dosen't do this.
Hi, got the sensor and replaced it like it was shown here. Thanks to the detailed tut. When I switch on the printer now the sensors light indicater is showing red from the start. No metal detection and no change of light. And yes I was taking care and ordered the right version like mentioned. Any idea?
I have a Creality CR10 S5, and I have upgraded the bed with a 5mm thick cast aluminum plate with 60 small strong SmCo magnets (up to 360° C) and a 240V AC silicone heater.
I know I must switch off the heater if I use an inductive sensor, but my question is: will the magnets mess with the inductive sensor?
It is a constant magnetic field, so maybe not a problem?
But the inductive sensor moves down when measuring distance, so the magnetic field increases, so maybe it IS a problem?
Can you test your inductive sensor with a constant magnet on the printbed?
AWESOME man.
Awesome video ...THANK YOU!!!!
Great video not only for replacing the leveling sensor but for your leveling approach creating your accurate z-home and then go for two-step leveling! Can you also post the template square g-code for test printing? Before seeing this I spent the whole weekend to level this printer couldn't get the best one. I was fine with small prints but with large ones, the nozzle was crashing the prints! I ordered your inductor sensor and would follow your instruction, hope it works. Thank you for this helpful video!
Btw, does it work if I have PEI on my print plate?
@@rahoo67 Yes it's work, actually Inductive sensor will work with glass too, but glass needs to be less then 3mm thick. Here are few photos with my 2.85mm thick glass. When sensor trigger you have 0.5mm clearance from nozzle. It's not too much but it can work.
If you get 2.5mm glass it clearance can be 0.85mm which is even better.
drive.google.com/folderview?id=1w-X8HLwxsCRnHv6OUHp5gDF6sBOEZlyt
6:25 This kind of levelling never happens. The extruder side of the bar is always heavy and lower than the other side. If I try to adjust by rotating one coupler, the coupler of the other side will also rotate due to spring action. Even if I hold one side of the coupler tightly and rotate the other, it will spring back to the same position as it was before.
What else do you do to it?
Kketansa Art This: czcams.com/video/hG8X26UtLVw/video.html
@@NexiTech
Thank you so much. I saw the video now. I will do it.
OMG 😮, I did not get the notification of your reply, I noticed your reply today coincidentally.
Very clear presentation! By the way, that wire stripper was absolute magic! Would you please leave a link to that exact model? Thanks....
Thank you Dave! Yes it is :) I buy it here in Sweden in local store but I found one online. It looks exactly the same.
Here is the link from Amazon -- amzn.to/2EHUbl8
I am confused on how you level it with the inductive sensor. In the top of the capacitive sensor there’s a small set screw at the top that allows you to adjust it to get the proper nozzle height off the bed. How do you do this with the inductive sensor with no adjustability in the sensor?
Hi, same question. How do you fine tune the 0.2mm gap without this tuning screw?
Can you please share with us your starting and ending G code for each print. You do a fine job my friend.
Hi Nexi Tech, I really enjoy your videos and your work!!! Thank you so much for your efforts
I'm having a problem with my cr-10s pro that I purchased recently, when it was printing a vase it stopped because of the laptop, that I use instead of SD card, when I try to resume the printing it bumped into that half vase, and after that I can't get it adjusted as you showed in this video with the same sensor, what it basically does when I go to leveling mode auto home it presses nozzle in to the bed so hard that it bending the bed, I'm so frustrated, I don't know how to solve this problem
Any help would be greatly appreciated
And thanks again
Hi, what's the difference between AX and BX in the reference ? LJ18A3-8-Z/BX LJ18A3-8-Z/AX
The AX model is a Normaly Close that mean it output voltage on detection, and the BX Normaly Open it always output voltage if no detection and 0V on detection
Wow, very nice, ordered the inductive sensor, cancelled my order for a bl touch. Also what firmware are you running?
Thanks mate! Well I like inductive sensor more. It's direct change no need to change anything to the firmware. Im using stock 1.60.2 Firmware you can see icon (fun) insted of FAN in the video :)
Just now I'm reading on Facebook it looks like that Creality lunch officially upgraded firmware 1.60.7 It looks like they fix a lot of bugs. Can't wait to test it :)
1.60.7 Runs great!
I shows and saves now all settings including autolevel measurements after power off. Nice!
interested on a video on firmware update@@NexiTech
Andrew Woulfe Please read my Pin(First comment)
The sensor i just bought reads @^.5 volts with blue and brown and 1 volt with blue and black when i place metel against the probe. is this ok as you state 23-24 volts and close to zero with metal
I purchased this sensor from Amazon and connected it as instructed, but it's horribly inconsistent when trying to zhome. I got it to work, somewhat, but the shimming method you described puts the sensor up way too high and it tries burying the print head into the surface. With a little trial and error, I'm able to offset the distance manually, but if the gcode is set to auto level, it will screw up the print job 100% of the time. I'm going back to the stock sensor until I can get a BTouch installed.
Hi! Many thanks for this informative video... Where can I find the test pattern (the one with 9 squares) you used for leveling test?
So I installed this sensor. And it does not play well with the tiny machines firmware. The first layer or to go down well but every layer after that starts squishing down on each other and makes the print look horrible. I had to go back to creality's most recent stock firmware and now it works really well.
What kind of torch did you use? The z axis issue has been bothering me for a long time. I like to follow what you did to fix it...
Hey Nexi, great video - many thanks! What soldering iron are you using?
Paul
He's using a TS100