I love this video. The basic structure is vital as this does not only bring the beauty of the roof out upon completion but prevents condensation and leakages in the long term. Thanks for this 👍🏾
Thank you for such a brilliant explanation. This 30 mins video gave me good insights into roofing techniques. Though I never did or looked closely at the structure, now I got a good understanding of the overall process, thanks to you!
This video was very detailed and very accurate. As a bricklayer, understanding the construction of the roof was very informative and helpful. Great video.
I was a roofer all my adult life nearly and we hated these plastic dry verge systems . They really are crap and difficult to work with unless you have the absolute perfect conditions to start out with , like he does here , where the roof is pre made as an example to exactly illustrate the system and every measurement is already planned , neatly and precisely as in this show room . In reality though most roofs are NOTHING like this . For a start you may have to have a cut tile on the right hand verge as the tiles do not fit exactly across the roof . With cut tiles it is very difficult to get them to sit straight under the dry verge as they were not designed very well to accommodate this . There is a certain amount of tolerance in the dry verge unit but often it is not enough for a nice snug fit as in this example . Also many , many roofs you work on are not entirely square , that is they may be an inch or so wider at the top than at the bottom . I have known some roofs to be even two or more inches out . Obviously this is not meant to be but it happens and rather than go to the expense and considerable time and effort needed to re build it , they expect the Tiler to get around it , which we do . However this again can cause problems when reaching the left hand verge unit because it can be touch and go whether the tiles will all sit correctly as they are supposed to do in principle . Another factor is that quite often in practice you actually have the rafters ( or trusses as most roofers call them ) at slightly different heights near the verge . This will give a slight bowing effect to the Batten’s and tiles so that the last tiles under the d/v unit will sit uncomfortably . Again the rafters shouldn’t be out at all but sometimes they are , and the builders will ALWAYS expect the Roofers to get around this . So I am afraid that unless you have a perfectly pre prepared ideal roof shape ( in reality most times you don’t ) then these plastic dry verge units really are CRAP . Even on an ideal roof you find that they discolour terribly after a few years and being plastic of course they warp and bend in time with blazing hot sun on them and then freezing ice throughout the year . They usually end up looking GHASTLY after a couple of years . No Rooftiler on the planet would put these things on his own house that he was building . Not unless he didn’t give a damn about how it looked . Much better than this system is the traditional wet cement verge which looks a thousand times better and can if done properly last even longer . If you really want to have a dry verge system then the old Redland Cloak dry verge is much better . I don’t know if they still make them as I have retired now , but the Cloak dry verge has a normal cement tile on the verge which cloaks over the side , is heavier than the normal tile and so sits quite neatly and securely once fixed . These don’t look bad at all . But really these plastic dry verge units shown here are cheap and nasty and cause problems after a few years . Generally they end up looking awful even if they are fitted correctly . Another problem is strong high winds and gales which buffet them around and shift them off axis no matter how securely they are fixed . Take a tip from an old roofer , if you are thinking of having your roof done then stay away from this plastic dry verge system . They are cheap and nasty and end up looking like an eye sore . You will be much better off with a nice traditional cement verge . They can have their problems too with extreme gales etc but they are easily repaired and made good if need be and will last decades usually . Many of the cement verges I did over 40 years ago are still looking just as good and sound as they did the day they were built . Natural cement tiles and verges age well and add character and value to the building I have always found whereas if you take a look at some of these plastic units after even ten years you will be shocked as to how ghastly they look . All tatty and wonky , discoloured and uneven . A complete eyesore.
choppy249 thanks for your interesting comment. for info. i have a cement verge 25 years old cement decayed and thus when removing it found that the roof battens were decayed back from barge about 75 mm especially at the lower end of the verge near the eaves. the tiles are sound but i was interested in the comment about lifting by wind. i have put 4 copper tingles on the lowest four courses verge tiles. i intend to replace the cement sand bedding but adding boiled linseed oil to the mix (it sets rock solid) . trouble is i am having difficulty getting cement sand because of corona lockdown. i am also considering trying to waterproof the verge on first two rows trying to keep damp away from edges.
frank crouch . Sorry to hear you have trouble with your verge but I am a little confused as to what type of verge it actually is . You mentioned the verge tiles but then you mention copper tingles which are primarily used on slate roofs , so is it a slate roof or a plain tile roof or interlocking tiles ? It would be so easy for me to diagnose the problem with it if I could see it but it is hard for me to offer any advice to you without more information . If it is slates then there are a number of different reasons that could explain the problems you have found . You also mention the barge board so are your tiles / slates overhanging this sufficiently ? Normally you would have an undercloak on top of the barge board , fixed under the battens as a base for the cement verge which the tiles / slates can then bed snuggly onto . This undercloak should normally overhang the gable by about 2 inches or so . If it does not overhang enough then rain can penetrate beneath it over time and will cause problems . One of the problems in some slate roofs is that people sometimes do not use an undercloak and bed the cement straight onto the gable wall or worse onto the wood barge and wall . Also amazingly they will not even bother to overhang the slates sometimes . This is a recipe for disaster as the cement will fail and crumble much quicker than normal and rain will soon start to penetrate . In fact the condition of your verge with rotting battens and decaying cement is more often than not found with this type of slate roof . Normally you would not expect a cement verge to decay badly after only 25 years or so nor should the roof battens be rotting either so I am puzzled by what has happened here . As I said it would be very easy for me to tell if I was up on the verge , I have repaired literally hundreds over the years but without seeing it , I can’t really help that much . It could just be shoddy workmanship which I have come across a lot over the years but if you know what you are doing as a rooftiler then it is not that difficult to do a very sound job . The basics of tiling a roof and ensuring that it is watertight and sound are fairly straightforward , as long as you don’t try to cut corners . Unfortunately some people do . One other reason why a cement verge might fail prematurely is if you use the incorrect sand / cement ratio . For all roofing work , i.e verges , ridge , hips and valleys , the ratio should be 3 to 1 . I have known some people to use bricklayers cement on certain aspects of a roof which is totally wrong and inadequate . The ratio for that is 4 , 5 or even 6 to 1 which is no good at all for roofing work . It is OK for underpointing the undercloak perhaps but that is all . I have found in repairing slate verges over the years that sometimes bricklayers cement has been used for this , probably because with slates much less cement is used and the tiler thinks it will be adequate , but it is not . Anyhow I shan’t ramble on . You asked about tile lifting I think on verges with the wind . Usually this is more of a problem with interlocking tiles on the left hand verge as the left hand verge tile is not held down by its adjacent tile . It just sits on top of it . The tile above holds the top of the verge tile down but the bottom of the tile is prone to wind lift . You can often hear the tiles rattling on very windy days as the wind buffets them up and down and eventually can work them loose . This is why you often see a verge clip in the cement on left hand verges holding the bottom of the tile down , but not so much on right hand verges , unless the roof is in a particularly wind prone area, like the coast etc. Slates and plain tile roofs are usually much less prone to wind lift as there is more coverage and weight on the top half of the tile thus holding down the bottom half more securely . But in strong gales even they will be affected . Also strong winds and frequent gales seem to becoming more the norm these days so more attention is needed for your roof than previously . When I first started out roofing the standard for most roofs regarding tile fixing was just perimeter fixing . That is just the eaves course the top course and the verges to be nailed or clipped . Then it was middle fixing too , then perhaps every fifth course , then a few years later every third course , then alternative courses , then by the time I finished it was every tile on the roof to be fixed , sometimes with a nail and tile clip too . Some roofs that I used to lay in 15 to 20 minutes were now taking over two hours or so . Still that’s a sign of the times I guess . One last thought before I go . If you are having trouble finding some cement / sand . Is there a Brookers or some such place near you ? We have one nearby where I live and they have been open for business as usual during this lockdown . It’s worth giving them a try if you can . Anyhow good luck with your verge and sorry I can’t be of more help .
choppy249 thanks for your detailed reply it is greatly appreciated. I have hopefully improved the verge construction and i try to explain further... double roman tiles left hand verge lower end bottom 5 courses (over an unheated garage ). original construction roman tiles on battens on felt , cavity walls asbestos undercloak cavity closer projecting about 75mm . tiles bedded in mortar (mix.??) with flaunching from asbestos to side and top of tile. The initial fault was identified when the flaunching cracked and began to fall in small (say 150 mm ) sections at various places at lower end (wetter) end. the garage is an extension about 25 years old. adjoining properties have had marley plastic and i notice that sometimes the verge course tiles have had to be replaced (indicating that fixer has made access to top of wall and end of battens). i decided not to go for plastic and have a go at rebedding in mortar. i started at lower end keeping the tiles on but able to lift them and found bedding not bonded to either underside of tiles nor to the asbestos undercloak , took all these pieces out ,lifted tiles and rebedded in mortar after painting the underside of the tile with pvc bonding . i have then turned the bedding into a flaunching up the side of the round part of the roman tile . now considering the use of the tingle....... on lifting the tile taking the flaunching out i found that the roof battens for the first four or five courses were decayed back for a distance of between one and five inches. (i think that the replacement with plastic would require a sound batter to nail into the end grain). i have made six tingles from copper pipe . flattened in a vice then filed off the fold thus producing piece of copper about 12 inches long by about 1 inch wide. . stating at lowest course bend over front of tile and then up and over the sound part of the batten ( the roman tiles are about 15 inches wide) thus tingle goes under the second kick to the tiles. the tingles are pre bent before fixing . thus the bottom six rows are all linked by bedding and tingles. because i am considering a north facing left hand verge always wet i have also painted the flaunching the first roll and the first flat of the double roman tile with boiled linseed oil in an attempt to keep the moisture out. your view on the mortar mix is of interest. you advise a strong mix .. fair enough but i think the advice on pointing mortar is a weaker mix which would possibly accommodate movement caused by sun rain frost. related to this i understand that when building the u-boat pens during WW2 that the germans added oil (unknown type) to the concrete. a few years back i made an experiment with boiled linseed oil in concrete and it set like steel. In the past-few days i have seen a modern research paper (italian) which advocates a small amount of oil added 1% . i have added a couple of dessert spoons of boiled linseed to my mixes . lastly i have noticed that all of the housing on this estate have been replaced by plastic and many re roofed . the estate is about 40 years old and built without plastic verges originally. next door have had plastic verges and replaced adjoining 2rows of tiles (presumably to renew ends of battens). i have worked in building all my life but not as roofer . Again thanks for your interest . ps perhaps of interest to you would be Knapen tubes. dutch invention where sloping holes 12mm dia depth of2inch made in say flaunching or bedding .lined with porous clay pipe allows air to circulate in, absorb moisture, the flow out keeping flaunching dry.
Absolutely agree. It appears few care about plastering plastic Lego bricks along their verges. Utterly ghastly in every way. Next they'll be fitting that nasty American-style uPVC siding and, God forbid, those cheap shed felt roofing "shingles" which are sadly ubiquitous across much of N. America.
In South Africa we use what we call a Counter batten which is 38x50mm timber which is the last batten from the eves to give that last batten the same sloping plane as the rest of the battens , our normal size for the rest of the roof is a 38x38mm size timber. This video was very informative 🙏
I am trying to learn some constructive procedures that aren´t so common in my country, and this video helped me so much to understand how to build a pitch roof!!! thanks so much and I will watch your other videos!!!
wooow, i'm speechless. it was very informative and interesting, ty for the video. my brain was asking me last night "check out how roofs are being done"..i'm like ok, let me sleep now. but i did look into it and man, it's so easy in virtual life..
I think the video is aimed at roofers really, a DIY'er doing this will come across a whole heap of issues. Not setting the roof out correctly, you would never run the eave like that hoping it comes in to the correct overhang and what about marking out top to bottom, this is a must especially gable to gable for an equal overhang. When you're loading your tiles, they should normally stacked in 6's with the channel downwards. And why don't roofers use lath hammers and knee pads no more :) But in all fairness a good and well presented video from Redland.
Hi my name is Peter De la Cruz Ramlall I am from Guyana I have watch and listened to this project you have shown from start to finish and I have enjoyed it I have never done a roof like that before but if I have to do it with a por the other roof I could do it myself
22:50 hát ez eléggé okádék lett. Később, mikor kész lesz, úgy néz ki, mintha műanyag tető lenne. - Erre létezik kerámia, vagy betonból legyártott, úgynevezett szegélycserép is. A videó ezt leszámítva összességében nagyon hasznos és tanulságos.
Very interesting and excellent teaching, thanks.... By the way, thr verge units are in plastic and I wonder if after few years theses items as many plastic stuffs, will be broken due to sun exposition.
There seems to be some concern (mostly among former roofers) that plastic hardware fades, decomposes or is damaged by sunlight or weathering over time. It does, of course, depend on the quality of the product and the installation in the first place. Many of the opinions on plastic / moulded verges are based on products that were introduced many years ago, rather than modern up-to-date systems. Both plastic verges and more traditional cement verges have pros and cons. Essentially, both are designed first to prevent wind and water ingress, and secondly to look nice. Your ability to repair or replace either one might be the deciding factor on which one you choose.
You dont need to half bond those tile or stagger them but you can half bond the Marley modern type of tile the flat profile 1 hope you dont mind me answering your question
Chess Ferrier . I’m a roofer , or was , just retired after 30 odd years . The simple reason why you don’t usually stagger interlocking tiles is that you don’t need to because they interlock and have an enclosed rain channel (flange ) running along the left hand edge of the tile . On the right hand side of the tile you have a raised lip that fits over and locks onto the left hand flange of the previously laid tile thus making it waterproof. The only roof tiles you need to stagger are slates or plain tiles ( small almost flat concrete tiles , often used on the sides of houses as vertical cladding ) . The reason you have to stagger or cross bond these is because they are not interlocking , you just bump them up to the next tile so there is a small gap there where the rain will get in. So by staggering them you overlap the top part of the tile so that the rain can’t get in there . It doesn’t matter that the rain falls into the gap below because that has another tile beneath it , and so on all the way up from the eaves course . On these type of roofs the eaves tile will be a smaller different size to all the other tiles because it has to fit completely under the first main visible tile . You will notice that on this interlocking tile roof the tiles are all the same size as there is no need for an extra row of eaves tiles at the bottom . As someone else mentioned you can stagger some interlocking tiles such as the Marley Modern tile because they are not profiled , they are entirely flat ( usually coloured black ) . They were designed to look like the classic slate roofs but with the advantage of being interlocking . Some builders will stagger these simply to make them look more like a traditional slate roof , but as said there is no real need for it . Redland used to make an equivalent tile called a Stonewold which was a bit bigger and a lot heavier than the Marley Modern . Most roofers used to hate using them because they were so heavy , you used to break your back carrying them up the ladder on your shoulder or head . Nowadays I think they have tile hoists to lift them all up to roof level. A lot easier these days . Anyhow I hope this explains it fully for you . Incidentally it is possible to stagger some interlocking profiled tiles too , like the Marley BoldRoll as its profile will exactly match up with the tile below it , but there is absolutely no reason to because you won’t even be able to see the cross bonding , whereas you can on flat interlocking tiles like the Modern tile which gives that criss cross effect mimicking a slate roof.
Well informed video. Cheers, so much help. Not kean on that plastic round edges though, have some on my roof and it fades after few years being in sun.
Clay tiles keep the room cool during summer. Therefore, it is used to make clay pots where during Summar you have a chill water to quench thirst, nature's refrigerator... When you insulate it with synthetic material beneath the wooden skeleton can become a very good platform for mould growth (can lead to respiratory disorder and even Cancer in some case)... and the cooling effect is cut off...
good video, but it doesn't explain how you would be doing all this while up on the roof. Why would you not ply wood the roof first? Does the roof not need sheathing when using this application? Cheers!
You said the trays get nailed to the facer board, but you said that this board was called the Eaves? And what is a barge board and what is it used for? Thanks.
Anyone working manual labour and struggles going to the gym on a regular basis besides work? what are your biggest issues dealing with that? Regarding work and fitness, what would you wish for more than anything else?
Very informative video. My questions as a none roofer are, how do you determine how much height to add on the facia board above the rafter and secondly, why is there no tilt fillet appliet, all that weight is on the facia board so if you need to change them in the future it's a nightmare?
As a Roofer I always fix a double batten just behind the fascia so the weight is supported, also this can be done to determine the the size a fascia needed
Those dry verge systems look revolting on a roof. Modern plastic junk, ready to go brittle with UV damage and snap off in 10 years when the product is no longer available
Have thought the same. I did, however, have much of the same opinion about the modern plastic roof tiles. Although, having used them on my conservatory for several years I'm pleased to say they have not disappointed. Out of interest, what are your thoughts of ordering concrete roof tiles online? Found some from Marley reasonably priced at www.roofingmegastore.co.uk/roofing-categories/pitched-roofing/roof-tiles.html and am a little unsure.
Mary Jackson . It depends how many you want . If it is just a few for a porch or something small then it is quite easy to pick them up from a builders merchant or have them delivered . When I was roofing for many years we didn’t have the option of ordering online so I can’t really say but I would imagine there would be a hefty postal delivery charge if you did choose that option . They are quite heavy and bulky so bear that in mind .
How would you vent the top of a mono pitched roof with the lead flashing across the top ? If the answer is to use a vented tile then how often are these installed ?
What will be the case if we have insulation between the rafters? then the cold or warm air will be ventilated through the insulation? This does not sound ok to me. Thanks for explaining!
So, to sum it up, we haven't really progressed since the Romans, just a few sticky plasticky bits. Driving nails through a roof compromises its integrity.
Then perhaps you should take a look at the crap "shingle" roofs Americans and Canadians tolerate, along with hideous uPVC plastic siding. My garden shed felt is far better than that shite.
@@twig3288 ... and the ancient Greeks and Etruscans, who used classically-proven wood joinery: dovetail joints, dowels and guttae. Later, these were depicted in stone, as a respectful and aesthetic acknowledgement of their archaic wooden structures.
Please can I ask, I've often wondered does the with of the roof have to be an exact / specific length so that when the tiles are placed there's no large overhang. When you place the tiles in the row, they always seem to fit exactly to the entire span of the roof? If you built a roof, but don't measure the with, and you go to place the tiles, and say they overhang by 1/2 a tiles length how could you solve that, or is it a case of making sure the with of the building you make will accomodate the tiles when their place? Hope that makes sense, but fascinated by roofing solutions and so grateful for your video. Thanks George
That's why you lay tile from the edge that's your starting position working inside tile can be cut anyway needed so by the time you come to your valleys and it overlaps you bust out the saw and make perfect cuts
This, is exactly what youtube should be for. Pure easily accessible information!!
Dear I also agree with you.
As someone who knows a fair crack about roofing, this is a belting video lads! Nice work 👏🏼
I love this video. The basic structure is vital as this does not only bring the beauty of the roof out upon completion but prevents condensation and leakages in the long term. Thanks for this 👍🏾
Great video. Very clear and detailed. I can probably do my own roof now.
Thank you for such a brilliant explanation. This 30 mins video gave me good insights into roofing techniques. Though I never did or looked closely at the structure, now I got a good understanding of the overall process, thanks to you!
This video was very detailed and very accurate. As a bricklayer, understanding the construction of the roof was very informative and helpful. Great video.
Wow! I have enjoyed the entire video. You have explained it really well. This must be the best roofing video! Thank you. Marta Jersey UK
Best video ever for installing clay tile roof. 👍👍
Thanks you’ve just saved me 4 years of apprenticeship 🙌
Hahahaha! Happy to help! ;-)
I was a roofer all my adult life nearly and we hated these plastic dry verge systems . They really are crap and difficult to work with unless you have the absolute perfect conditions to start out with , like he does here , where the roof is pre made as an example to exactly illustrate the system and every measurement is already planned , neatly and precisely as in this show room . In reality though most roofs are NOTHING like this . For a start you may have to have a cut tile on the right hand verge as the tiles do not fit exactly across the roof . With cut tiles it is very difficult to get them to sit straight under the dry verge as they were not designed very well to accommodate this . There is a certain amount of tolerance in the dry verge unit but often it is not enough for a nice snug fit as in this example . Also many , many roofs you work on are not entirely square , that is they may be an inch or so wider at the top than at the bottom . I have known some roofs to be even two or more inches out . Obviously this is not meant to be but it happens and rather than go to the expense and considerable time and effort needed to re build it , they expect the Tiler to get around it , which we do . However this again can cause problems when reaching the left hand verge unit because it can be touch and go whether the tiles will all sit correctly as they are supposed to do in principle . Another factor is that quite often in practice you actually have the rafters ( or trusses as most roofers call them ) at slightly different heights near the verge . This will give a slight bowing effect to the Batten’s and tiles so that the last tiles under the d/v unit will sit uncomfortably . Again the rafters shouldn’t be out at all but sometimes they are , and the builders will ALWAYS expect the Roofers to get around this . So I am afraid that unless you have a perfectly pre prepared ideal roof shape ( in reality most times you don’t ) then these plastic dry verge units really are CRAP . Even on an ideal roof you find that they discolour terribly after a few years and being plastic of course they warp and bend in time with blazing hot sun on them and then freezing ice throughout the year . They usually end up looking GHASTLY after a couple of years . No Rooftiler on the planet would put these things on his own house that he was building . Not unless he didn’t give a damn about how it looked . Much better than this system is the traditional wet cement verge which looks a thousand times better and can if done properly last even longer . If you really want to have a dry verge system then the old Redland Cloak dry verge is much better . I don’t know if they still make them as I have retired now , but the Cloak dry verge has a normal cement tile on the verge which cloaks over the side , is heavier than the normal tile and so sits quite neatly and securely once fixed . These don’t look bad at all . But really these plastic dry verge units shown here are cheap and nasty and cause problems after a few years . Generally they end up looking awful even if they are fitted correctly . Another problem is strong high winds and gales which buffet them around and shift them off axis no matter how securely they are fixed . Take a tip from an old roofer , if you are thinking of having your roof done then stay away from this plastic dry verge system . They are cheap and nasty and end up looking like an eye sore . You will be much better off with a nice traditional cement verge . They can have their problems too with extreme gales etc but they are easily repaired and made good if need be and will last decades usually . Many of the cement verges I did over 40 years ago are still looking just as good and sound as they did the day they were built . Natural cement tiles and verges age well and add character and value to the building I have always found whereas if you take a look at some of these plastic units after even ten years you will be shocked as to how ghastly they look . All tatty and wonky , discoloured and uneven . A complete eyesore.
choppy249 thanks for your interesting comment. for info. i have a cement verge 25 years old cement decayed and thus when removing it found that the roof battens were decayed back from barge about 75 mm especially at the lower end of the verge near the eaves. the tiles are sound but i was interested in the comment about lifting by wind. i have put 4 copper tingles on the lowest four courses verge tiles. i intend to replace the cement sand bedding but adding boiled linseed oil to the mix (it sets rock solid) . trouble is i am having difficulty getting cement sand because of corona lockdown. i am also considering trying to waterproof the verge on first two rows trying to keep damp away from edges.
frank crouch . Sorry to hear you have trouble with your verge but I am a little confused as to what type of verge it actually is . You mentioned the verge tiles but then you mention copper tingles which are primarily used on slate roofs , so is it a slate roof or a plain tile roof or interlocking tiles ? It would be so easy for me to diagnose the problem with it if I could see it but it is hard for me to offer any advice to you without more information . If it is slates then there are a number of different reasons that could explain the problems you have found . You also mention the barge board so are your tiles / slates overhanging this sufficiently ? Normally you would have an undercloak on top of the barge board , fixed under the battens as a base for the cement verge which the tiles / slates can then bed snuggly onto . This undercloak should normally overhang the gable by about 2 inches or so . If it does not overhang enough then rain can penetrate beneath it over time and will cause problems . One of the problems in some slate roofs is that people sometimes do not use an undercloak and bed the cement straight onto the gable wall or worse onto the wood barge and wall . Also amazingly they will not even bother to overhang the slates sometimes . This is a recipe for disaster as the cement will fail and crumble much quicker than normal and rain will soon start to penetrate . In fact the condition of your verge with rotting battens and decaying cement is more often than not found with this type of slate roof . Normally you would not expect a cement verge to decay badly after only 25 years or so nor should the roof battens be rotting either so I am puzzled by what has happened here . As I said it would be very easy for me to tell if I was up on the verge , I have repaired literally hundreds over the years but without seeing it , I can’t really help that much . It could just be shoddy workmanship which I have come across a lot over the years but if you know what you are doing as a rooftiler then it is not that difficult to do a very sound job . The basics of tiling a roof and ensuring that it is watertight and sound are fairly straightforward , as long as you don’t try to cut corners . Unfortunately some people do . One other reason why a cement verge might fail prematurely is if you use the incorrect sand / cement ratio . For all roofing work , i.e verges , ridge , hips and valleys , the ratio should be 3 to 1 . I have known some people to use bricklayers cement on certain aspects of a roof which is totally wrong and inadequate . The ratio for that is 4 , 5 or even 6 to 1 which is no good at all for roofing work . It is OK for underpointing the undercloak perhaps but that is all . I have found in repairing slate verges over the years that sometimes bricklayers cement has been used for this , probably because with slates much less cement is used and the tiler thinks it will be adequate , but it is not .
Anyhow I shan’t ramble on . You asked about tile lifting I think on verges with the wind . Usually this is more of a problem with interlocking tiles on the left hand verge as the left hand verge tile is not held down by its adjacent tile . It just sits on top of it . The tile above holds the top of the verge tile down but the bottom of the tile is prone to wind lift . You can often hear the tiles rattling on very windy days as the wind buffets them up and down and eventually can work them loose . This is why you often see a verge clip in the cement on left hand verges holding the bottom of the tile down , but not so much on right hand verges , unless the roof is in a particularly wind prone area, like the coast etc. Slates and plain tile roofs are usually much less prone to wind lift as there is more coverage and weight on the top half of the tile thus holding down the bottom half more securely . But in strong gales even they will be affected . Also strong winds and frequent gales seem to becoming more the norm these days so more attention is needed for your roof than previously . When I first started out roofing the standard for most roofs regarding tile fixing was just perimeter fixing . That is just the eaves course the top course and the verges to be nailed or clipped . Then it was middle fixing too , then perhaps every fifth course , then a few years later every third course , then alternative courses , then by the time I finished it was every tile on the roof to be fixed , sometimes with a nail and tile clip too . Some roofs that I used to lay in 15 to 20 minutes were now taking over two hours or so . Still that’s a sign of the times I guess . One last thought before I go . If you are having trouble finding some cement / sand . Is there a Brookers or some such place near you ? We have one nearby where I live and they have been open for business as usual during this lockdown . It’s worth giving them a try if you can . Anyhow good luck with your verge and sorry I can’t be of more help .
choppy249 thanks for your detailed reply it is greatly appreciated. I have hopefully improved the verge construction and i try to explain further... double roman tiles left hand verge lower end bottom 5 courses (over an unheated garage ). original construction roman tiles on battens on felt , cavity walls asbestos undercloak cavity closer projecting about 75mm . tiles bedded in mortar (mix.??) with flaunching from asbestos to side and top of tile. The initial fault was identified when the flaunching cracked and began to fall in small (say 150 mm ) sections at various places at lower end (wetter) end. the garage is an extension about 25 years old. adjoining properties have had marley plastic and i notice that sometimes the verge course tiles have had to be replaced (indicating that fixer has made access to top of wall and end of battens). i decided not to go for plastic and have a go at rebedding in mortar. i started at lower end keeping the tiles on but able to lift them and found bedding not bonded to either underside of tiles nor to the asbestos undercloak , took all these pieces out ,lifted tiles and rebedded in mortar after painting the underside of the tile with pvc bonding . i have then turned the bedding into a flaunching up the side of the round part of the roman tile . now considering the use of the tingle....... on lifting the tile taking the flaunching out i found that the roof battens for the first four or five courses were decayed back for a distance of between one and five inches. (i think that the replacement with plastic would require a sound batter to nail into the end grain). i have made six tingles from copper pipe . flattened in a vice then filed off the fold thus producing piece of copper about 12 inches long by about 1 inch wide. . stating at lowest course bend over front of tile and then up and over the sound part of the batten ( the roman tiles are about 15 inches wide) thus tingle goes under the second kick to the tiles. the tingles are pre bent before fixing . thus the bottom six rows are all linked by bedding and tingles.
because i am considering a north facing left hand verge always wet i have also painted the flaunching the first roll and the first flat of the double roman tile with boiled linseed oil in an attempt to keep the moisture out.
your view on the mortar mix is of interest. you advise a strong mix .. fair enough but i think the advice on pointing mortar is a weaker mix which would possibly accommodate movement caused by sun rain frost. related to this i understand that when building the u-boat pens during WW2 that the germans added oil (unknown type) to the concrete. a few years back i made an experiment with boiled linseed oil in concrete and it set like steel. In the past-few days i have seen a modern research paper (italian) which advocates a small amount of oil added 1% . i have added a couple of dessert spoons of boiled linseed to my mixes . lastly i have noticed that all of the housing on this estate have been replaced by plastic and many re roofed . the estate is about 40 years old and built without plastic verges originally. next door have had plastic verges and replaced adjoining 2rows of tiles (presumably to renew ends of battens). i have worked in building all my life but not as roofer . Again thanks for your interest .
ps perhaps of interest to you would be Knapen tubes. dutch invention where sloping holes 12mm dia depth of2inch made in say flaunching or bedding .lined with porous clay pipe allows air to circulate in, absorb moisture, the flow out keeping flaunching dry.
Very true.... The amount of jobs I've been to where the dry verge have blown off.. Shite.
Absolutely agree. It appears few care about plastering plastic Lego bricks along their verges. Utterly ghastly in every way. Next they'll be fitting that nasty American-style uPVC siding and, God forbid, those cheap shed felt roofing "shingles" which are sadly ubiquitous across much of N. America.
Awesome video giving a very concise explanation of how a pitched roof is constructed.
Well done Matt and Redland
I have spent months researching into building sheds and found an awesome resource at Wilfs Shed Formula (check it out on google) +Andy Cooper
And
Easy to understand detailed information. Thank you.
Brilliant tutorial, very well explained and useful to know. Thanks :)
Great video, very informative!
So much so, that I am now a qualified roofer!
Ha! Good luck up there!
In South Africa we use what we call a Counter batten which is 38x50mm timber which is the last batten from the eves to give that last batten the same sloping plane as the rest of the battens , our normal size for the rest of the roof is a 38x38mm size timber.
This video was very informative 🙏
To give our tiles the same sloping plane I meant to say
Brother!
Easy Accessed and Perfectly Explained, Thank you for this video!
Glad it helped!
Great video explains everything in detail
BEST EXAMPLE WITH EXPLANATION EVER.... THANK YOU
Very education and good, best one I have seen this far. Great accent too
🤣
I am trying to learn some constructive procedures that aren´t so common in my country, and this video helped me so much to understand how to build a pitch roof!!! thanks so much and I will watch your other videos!!!
LOL , I wouldn't advise you to DIY your roof . You can definitely create yourself a lot of stress otherwise.
Brilliant product and good video demonstration. 👍👍
Thank you very much for the perfect explenation cant be better than that well done 👏👏👏👏🙏🙏🎉
Great video. Maybe you could teach those who do new builds!
Great commentary clear and concise instructions
I’m not sure how a landed here but I’m glad I did. That was excellent. 👏🏾👏🏾
Ha! The algorithm works! Thanks Ashley :)
same here :) , but really enjoyed the video
Great video, very well explained. Thanks 😊
The best video about roofing. Very educational.
wooow, i'm speechless. it was very informative and interesting, ty for the video. my brain was asking me last night "check out how roofs are being done"..i'm like ok, let me sleep now. but i did look into it and man, it's so easy in virtual life..
Like with all building work, the skill is in the preperation. Interesting.
100%
I think the video is aimed at roofers really, a DIY'er doing this will come across a whole heap of issues. Not setting the roof out correctly, you would never run the eave like that hoping it comes in to the correct overhang and what about marking out top to bottom, this is a must especially gable to gable for an equal overhang.
When you're loading your tiles, they should normally stacked in 6's with the channel downwards.
And why don't roofers use lath hammers and knee pads no more :)
But in all fairness a good and well presented video from Redland.
LEEDS8 stacks of 6 maybe but channel down never seen that like
@@lc-xk2kz Sorry mate, I meant the channel lower most, so when laying right to left the tiles naturally fall into place. 👍🏼
Very nice and detailed presentation. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers guys. Good work 👍🏆
Hi my name is Peter De la Cruz Ramlall I am from Guyana I have watch and listened to this project you have shown from start to finish and I have enjoyed it I have never done a roof like that before but if I have to do it with a por the other roof I could do it myself
An excellent piece of work lads. Thanks for your efforts.
Amazing video guy, thank you so much. Luigi
Excellent, thank you so much ❤
Underlay is cut back by 30mm from the ridge.... but when you measure down for your battons, it's sat at 45mm from the ridge
Roofing is an art. They should teach this in colleges
Very good video - thanks for sharing 👍
Brilliant tutorial
This is very informative, I feel a fundi already, just need to have the materials ...
Thank you, very educational , have a nice day.
22:50 hát ez eléggé okádék lett. Később, mikor kész lesz, úgy néz ki, mintha műanyag tető lenne. - Erre létezik kerámia, vagy betonból legyártott, úgynevezett szegélycserép is. A videó ezt leszámítva összességében nagyon hasznos és tanulságos.
good and very clear and well presented.
Very interesting and excellent teaching, thanks.... By the way, thr verge units are in plastic and I wonder if after few years theses items as many plastic stuffs, will be broken due to sun exposition.
There seems to be some concern (mostly among former roofers) that plastic hardware fades, decomposes or is damaged by sunlight or weathering over time. It does, of course, depend on the quality of the product and the installation in the first place.
Many of the opinions on plastic / moulded verges are based on products that were introduced many years ago, rather than modern up-to-date systems.
Both plastic verges and more traditional cement verges have pros and cons. Essentially, both are designed first to prevent wind and water ingress, and secondly to look nice. Your ability to repair or replace either one might be the deciding factor on which one you choose.
This was so soo good!
Thanks!
@@HomebuildingMagazine please do another one but for a small roof for the front door if the House
As a DIY'er I found it very informative. Thank You.
1. Why did you not stagger the tiles?
2. Is there any disadvantage in staggering these tiles?
You dont need to half bond those tile or stagger them but you can half bond the Marley modern type of tile the flat profile 1 hope you dont mind me answering your question
Chess Ferrier . I’m a roofer , or was , just retired after 30 odd years . The simple reason why you don’t usually stagger interlocking tiles is that you don’t need to because they interlock and have an enclosed rain channel (flange ) running along the left hand edge of the tile . On the right hand side of the tile you have a raised lip that fits over and locks onto the left hand flange of the previously laid tile thus making it waterproof.
The only roof tiles you need to stagger are slates or plain tiles ( small almost flat concrete tiles , often used on the sides of houses as vertical cladding ) . The reason you have to stagger or cross bond these is because they are not interlocking , you just bump them up to the next tile so there is a small gap there where the rain will get in. So by staggering them you overlap the top part of the tile so that the rain can’t get in there . It doesn’t matter that the rain falls into the gap below because that has another tile beneath it , and so on all the way up from the eaves course . On these type of roofs the eaves tile will be a smaller different size to all the other tiles because it has to fit completely under the first main visible tile . You will notice that on this interlocking tile roof the tiles are all the same size as there is no need for an extra row of eaves tiles at the bottom .
As someone else mentioned you can stagger some interlocking tiles such as the Marley Modern tile because they are not profiled , they are entirely flat ( usually coloured black ) . They were designed to look like the classic slate roofs but with the advantage of being interlocking . Some builders will stagger these simply to make them look more like a traditional slate roof , but as said there is no real need for it . Redland used to make an equivalent tile called a Stonewold which was a bit bigger and a lot heavier than the Marley Modern . Most roofers used to hate using them because they were so heavy , you used to break your back carrying them up the ladder on your shoulder or head . Nowadays I think they have tile hoists to lift them all up to roof level. A lot easier these days .
Anyhow I hope this explains it fully for you . Incidentally it is possible to stagger some interlocking profiled tiles too , like the Marley BoldRoll as its profile will exactly match up with the tile below it , but there is absolutely no reason to because you won’t even be able to see the cross bonding , whereas you can on flat interlocking tiles like the Modern tile which gives that criss cross effect mimicking a slate roof.
Well informed video. Cheers, so much help. Not kean on that plastic round edges though, have some on my roof and it fades after few years being in sun.
Great content.
Love this video❤❤❤❤
Excellent.
Left hand and right hand dry verge looks better. Mortar done well looks much better
_Here in South of Brazil we still building houses this old form._
Good video. Looks great. Not too keen on plastic edge detail.
Interesting mix of draping material,
I missed a radiant barrier and cooling channels leading up to the ridge before the tiles.
Clay tiles keep the room cool during summer. Therefore, it is used to make clay pots where during Summar you have a chill water to quench thirst, nature's refrigerator...
When you insulate it with synthetic material beneath the wooden skeleton can become a very good platform for mould growth (can lead to respiratory disorder and even Cancer in some case)... and the cooling effect is cut off...
I subbed....great tutorial for clueless roofers like me.
Awesome, thank you!
Very clearly explained
What a great video .watching 2020 well detailed n explained
good video, but it doesn't explain how you would be doing all this while up on the roof. Why would you not ply wood the roof first? Does the roof not need sheathing when using this application?
Cheers!
Why would you pay the roof
Only Americans put ply on the roof
Amazing
Thanks for sharing
Bagus video nya untuk pengetahuan.
Very nice tutorial clip....i really admire that step by step explainations. Thanks for ur great effort.
Very good, but did Stevie Wonder join the facia to the barge board!!!!
Completely great 👌
شكرا لك على هذه التجربة الرائعة
You're welcome, Sado :)
@@HomebuildingMagazine شكرا لك استاذي العزيز
Well done guys excellent video
Can you get verge units in the same material as the tiles, instead of the plastic?
i want to learn this
Do you need to add a vapour barrier on the inside? If the loft space is going to be used for loft storage only
Amazing 💯
Is this type of ventilated roof deck suitable for tropical climate?
Good one👍👍👍
You said the trays get nailed to the facer board, but you said that this board was called the Eaves? And what is a barge board and what is it used for? Thanks.
Anyone working manual labour and struggles going to the gym on a regular basis besides work?
what are your biggest issues dealing with that?
Regarding work and fitness, what would you wish for more than anything else?
Very Impressed.
Great tutorial
Thanks, John
"how to finish a roof" should be the title. this is the easiest part of doing a roof
@19:34 you are putting the nails . Are these nail must for the all the tiles or just the bottom row ?
Great video
If only roofers laid a roof like this
I have forgotten more than you will ever know.
Very informative video. My questions as a none roofer are, how do you determine how much height to add on the facia board above the rafter and secondly, why is there no tilt fillet appliet, all that weight is on the facia board so if you need to change them in the future it's a nightmare?
When changing the facia you’ll need to remove the first course of tiles and probably push up the second course up. Bit of a headache but no nightmare.
As a Roofer I always fix a double batten just behind the fascia so the weight is supported, also this can be done to determine the the size a fascia needed
Great video. What size nails are you using to nail the tiles onto the baton?
thanks so much simple roof
Those dry verge systems look revolting on a roof. Modern plastic junk, ready to go brittle with UV damage and snap off in 10 years when the product is no longer available
Have thought the same. I did, however, have much of the same opinion about the modern plastic roof tiles. Although, having used them on my conservatory for several years I'm pleased to say they have not disappointed. Out of interest, what are your thoughts of ordering concrete roof tiles online? Found some from Marley reasonably priced at www.roofingmegastore.co.uk/roofing-categories/pitched-roofing/roof-tiles.html and am a little unsure.
Done roofing for 12 years and I agree they only work if buildings are square Aswel they haven’t thought of that.cant beat traditional mortar bed
@@danmartin6515 If you a roofer please help us and not for free of course, got a newborn here under a horror roof if not a house. Thanks
Mary Jackson . It depends how many you want . If it is just a few for a porch or something small then it is quite easy to pick them up from a builders merchant or have them delivered . When I was roofing for many years we didn’t have the option of ordering online so I can’t really say but I would imagine there would be a hefty postal delivery charge if you did choose that option . They are quite heavy and bulky so bear that in mind .
total plastic crap for a otherwise durable tile roof. only an imbecile would cheapen a tile roof with this junk
What is the minimum required roof gradient for using tiles as the roofing material?
How would you vent the top of a mono pitched roof with the lead flashing across the top ? If the answer is to use a vented tile then how often are these installed ?
Great video thanks. What would you recommend for a vaulted ceiling (no loft space) in terms of ventilation?
How UV resistant is the plastic and are the screws marine grade stainless steel ?
wow, wonderful
looks so easy indoors that felting stuff lol
What will be the case if we have insulation between the rafters? then the cold or warm air will be ventilated through the insulation? This does not sound ok to me. Thanks for explaining!
Amazing.
So, to sum it up, we haven't really progressed since the Romans, just a few sticky plasticky bits. Driving nails through a roof compromises its integrity.
Then perhaps you should take a look at the crap "shingle" roofs Americans and Canadians tolerate, along with hideous uPVC plastic siding. My garden shed felt is far better than that shite.
@@AntPDC …and so were the Roman’s roof tiles 🔨😂
@@twig3288 ... and the ancient Greeks and Etruscans, who used classically-proven wood joinery: dovetail joints, dowels and guttae. Later, these were depicted in stone, as a respectful and aesthetic acknowledgement of their archaic wooden structures.
is a roof decking not required for tile roof ?
good video but after the first line of tiles you never showed how you layed the rest
Please can I ask, I've often wondered does the with of the roof have to be an exact / specific length so that when the tiles are placed there's no large overhang. When you place the tiles in the row, they always seem to fit exactly to the entire span of the roof? If you built a roof, but don't measure the with, and you go to place the tiles, and say they overhang by 1/2 a tiles length how could you solve that, or is it a case of making sure the with of the building you make will accomodate the tiles when their place? Hope that makes sense, but fascinated by roofing solutions and so grateful for your video. Thanks George
That's why you lay tile from the edge that's your starting position working inside tile can be cut anyway needed so by the time you come to your valleys and it overlaps you bust out the saw and make perfect cuts
Do you recommend leaving tie downs on a concrete tile roof? ?