i wanted to ask your opinion on impact drivers... so i have been practicing on working on the ej25 series engines keeping it in the bay, currently I am working on the 253 sohc and the damn cam sprocket bolts have been giving me a run for my money. do you know of an electric impact that is powerful and slim enough to fit in that small area that can pull that bolt? i bought the special cam tools and used a hollow bar with my 1/2 in breaker, but all that happened was the bolt got marred to all hell, so now i have a bolt remover socket. im debating on pulling it to fix it but i am curious if i can find an impact that i can use and avoid pulling the block. thanks in advance
Found a set of square and triangle sockets which included the 13mm Sq for $30 on ebay. Are they great sockets? Probably not but did the job for the rear differential even if I only use it once they were worth it. The special socket alone was $30 if you could find one in stock.
As always, solid video. Can't believe it took me this long to find it but glad I did. Just discovered and bought a Company23 cv axle roll pin punch, can't wait to use it!
I in recent months got that spill free funnel. Though I have over the years bought some other stuff. That cam gear tool comes in handy so long at the cam bolt does not strip out. I actually bought a smoke machine for leaks as well. Been hunting gremlins hiding in the systems here and there. Thing I found really handy is getting that cheap transmission jack that Harbor Freight has. That has saved me soo much time and headache removing and installing the transmission in mine.
I have been working on Subaru engines since 1982 with the EA82 engine right up to the new FA/FB( which are shit) would have loved this stuff years ago, do yourselves a favour and buy the tools that will make your life much easier, thank you young man for showing this, even old dogs can learn new tricks.
Just found this although some of your links have been broken, this type of video is just what I needed to know the specialty tools for my Outback! Thank you!
Thanks for the oil funnel recommendation. I see my other funnel and towards the end of filling up some oil spilled out and had to degrease and clean it.
What a great video!!! This kinda info saves money for routine Maintenance. Thank you so much for all your films you have covered on vital important info of maintaining these engines...
Great video. Tons of helpful tools! I bought the P&L Motorsports Engine Builder Super Pack for $150 you get the cam seal installer, the front crank tool, the rear crank tool, and covers for the intake and exhaust ports. All made in the US, by P&L. It is night and day difference using the correct installers for these seals. I’ve been meaning to get some of those Company 23 tools, looks like I’ll be making a cart soon enough, lol.
Yes sir you are correct on the drain plug near the oil filter for the EZ36, I just did my coolant last winter and all I did was a drain and refill on the radiator using that funnel that you have which came in handy! This winter I will drain and refill the radiator again even though Subaru says I don’t have to do it for 12 years my car is six years old I figured I would just do it halfway anyway!
I have a '10 Impreza 2.5i with the EJ253 and I have 2 separate belts. And shortly after buying the car I had my A/C - alternator and I watched a short video on how to do it and it was so bloody easy!!!
Company 23 cam pulley tool is really good but add cam locking tool for timing belt change. It really reduce the metal stress. The power tool one also works on EJ20G.
So good . The info in these are priceless. If someone has a Check Engine light and code stored and can’t make it to a shop, find a friend or family member with a Cobb Accessport to read codes. The Cobb Subaru tuning device can read all Subaru codes and offer insight into the fix and or common parts giving more information on the code and not just reading it. Doesn’t matter what Subaru the Cobb is for it will read Subaru codes.
A lot of subarus you can put the ignition in the “ON” position, turn your lights on, press the “odometer/trip reset” button 4 times, lights off, press the button 4 times again, lights back on, press the button 4 more times and it will show your engine codes in the odometer display. Had to do it yesterday for a C0042 on my wrx haha.
Spill free funnel is an absolute must for anyone who wants to do any kind of work that requires draining/filling the cooling system And if you're like me you will end up buying like 3 or 4 of them because the adapters somehow walk away like Even with moving over to using a vacuum cooling system tester/filler tool a spill free is just a requirement Also I'm surprised how different that rear crank seal tool is compared to the factory tool... I still have a ton of the factory tools that I bought when I worked at the dealership because people didn't know how to put anything back where it goes and I would waste time (alot of time normally) when I needed it to complete my job... exspensive ya but paid for themselves many times over now
Yes, the EG33 has metal pulleys. I also use the Company 23 cam tool for my EJ25D, but if it's not in car I won't use it. I prefer pulling the VC and using a wrench on the cam itself. I've had those pulleys break even with the proper tool. Yes, they get obscenely tight.
On the stretch belt it can be done by hand (belt side) and turn the crank with a 22m socket. it gets pinchy but doable, an 8mm box wrench bolted on the top end as a guide helps but not needed.
Worth buying that 13mm pipe plug for the differential.. if you use a 1/2 inch you are bit undersized and you could slip off or round a tightly torqued or old plug .
Also the roll pin punch is a must but I found it easier to get the pins started back in the axles with an old 1/4 socket extension that I don't care to beat up but dropping the pin into the 1/4" square hole that the ratchet would go and just tap it in a bit till it's good and started...but just my experience
Nice collection and explanations of these specialty tools. But I’m sure you must have also many specialty tools that have eventually proven themselves to be somewhat useless or redundant. I’ve collected a couple over the years
Hey buddy, love your videos and used to love wrenching on older Subarus. However, both my wife and I, and all the recent Subarus I've done maintenance on, are FB engines. Any experience with those yet? Specifically wondering about engine block drains but just a suggestion for the future in your videos to mention the FB engines and tools needed for those. Thanks for posting man love your vids
I've had no need for the cam lock. Rarely do they spin on me and when they do, they're easy to rotate back into place. The time taken to set the tool would be the same as me just replacing the belt anyways.
I do recommend to use CTA Tools 7615 Camshaft Holder or the OEM 499977500; since I have already experienced one Intake Cam Sprocket ruing since the tool from Company23 Subaru AVCS Intake Cam Sprocket Tool hold the Intake Sprocket from the outside and there is a small ping broken inside the Intake Cam Sprocket Also for those searching for Subaru Tools (sorry they are really expensive) subaruretailersolutions.com/tools
I recently replaced a center differential on a 2000 Forester. Took some effort to drive the pin holding the shift linkage in place at the rear of the transmission case. Do they make a special tool for driving that pin out?
Great info mate, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I've recently purchased a 2013 Tribeca that's due for some maintenance and have found your videos to be really helpful. Just have a question about doing a drain and fill on the auto transmission: Is it okay to use a different synthetic transmission fluid to what it's currently using? The mechanic that last serviced it, used 'Total - Fluidmatic' synthetic auto trans fluid, but this isn't available for retail purchase.
It's not recommended to mix fluids. You'd have to see how compatible that fluid is. Or if it's supposed to be a "universal" fluid. You should have GM Dexron or Subaru ATF-HP in it. Can't remember what year they changed over.
I got a question. What socket size/specialty tool do I need to remove the nut on the end of the input shaft to start pulling gears off and what size is the nut on the output shaft right behind 5th gear? Thanks!
Question: Some (but not all, oddly) of the Subaru cam sprockets on the 2.5L SOHC have 1 plastic cam sprocket and 1 metal cam sprocket. The 2nd cam pulley tool listed below works for the metal one, but what works for the plastic one? Does that DOHC tool work for the SOHC plastic sprocket, or is there another tool out for that? TIA.
I have a 2001 Subaru Forester and was wanting to drain the rear end differential oil...Is the Plug interchangeable to a Torx Plug? Mine is the counter sunk 13mm/ ...... I also want to change the seal oil ring on the oil drain adapter ( holds the filter ) I’ve seen videos that have flexible radiator hoses that allow the oil adapter to move out of the way....On mine, do I remove the radiator??
Hey there! first of all thank you so much for your'e time spent on making these awsome videos! my ez30R is giving me hell and i fixed so much with your'e help and saved tons of money :) also, i would like to ask if you have a idea where i could get a replacement tool for subaru's ST used to adjust the front and rear differential preload. i use a hammer and a kind of plastic chisel but it wont always work...(if i cant find one ill just solder me one.) replaced my transmission from my 2004 5eat from a legacy sedan and accidently installed one from a 2006 outback, bouth 5EAt for EZ30R thought they were the same but now i found out the final drive on the 2006 outback is different...(same final drive as the turbo gt 5eat 3.027 vs mine which is 3.272.) any idea what else is different? i have got p0715 and cant go past 3rd gear :( i have swapped out the front diff and problem remained the same. every dissasembly and reassembly of this transmission is a true hassle to do in my yard :) if you know any thing it would mean the world, i'm out of ideas...
If the ratios are off the car should torque bind. That can tear up the rear diff and or center diff. I wouldn't drive it until you have the correct transmission with the correct gear ratio.
I am. Haha. 😂 In the middle of renovating my house, so yeah, that's my living room. If you're interested in the reno, check my second channel CZcams.com/athomeonthefarm
@MrSubaru1387 Do you happen to know if codes produced from Japan model Subaru Forester 2018 will be the same as international models? I am considering getting a code reader for SJ (Japan model).
Thank you, this is great info!! Just one big question, which oil filter removal tool would you recommend. Took my car to a Subaru dealer for a oil change 3k miles ago, now I want to change the oil but the tech tightened the filter so hard, I can't take it out. Any ideas.....? Thank you.
@SenselessTuning I use a 6in crescent brand slip joint pliers to get my oil filters loose. Then it is off and on by hand. Be careful though and make sure you're twisting on axis with the threads. You can bend or break the oil filter bracket with that tool if you are are not careful.
i'm replacing my timing belt. any tips or advice. Do I need those special tools? can do them without them? Do I need that tool to take off crank pulley? Do I need that special tool to keep both cam in place when putting on the belt?? thanks
I'm not sure how you would tighten the crank bolt without a crank pulley wrench. Probably a 22 mm deep socket for the crank pulley bolt. The cam pulleys wrenches are absolutely not necessary however it is very difficult to align the cam pulley by hand if the cam pulleys rotate (at service position my driver's side head had compressed valves and the pulley wanted to turn with the lightest bump) so take special care not to move them or see if your local auto parts store can lend you a tool for them. My father used a simple trick of paper clips to hold the timing belt on the pulleys. I bought that funnel filler tool, loved it (not strictly essential but made refilling the coolant drop dead easy). Torque wrench is probably a must though. You can get by with the harbor frieght 50-150 ft/lbs one ($20 on sale).
I’m looking in to buying a 99 Subaru Legacy outback for 600$ it’s going to need a new water pump and head gasket would it be worth my money and time to get it and have it as a project to do this winter or is it a waste of time?
I can't say. I buy old Subarus in the same condition for $200-600 and flip them for profit. I don't know your skill level to know if it would be a wise project/investment for you.
@@MrSubaru1387 I was asking around in the different Subaru communities with respect to changing coolant and a lot of folks have said to leave those block plugs alone since once you crack it open it will prone to leak once you put it back on even if you seal it
@@MrSubaru1387 i’m going to be doing a timing belt replacement I will definitely use your videos to help me out thank you! Is there something that you put on the threads on the block seals to keep from leaking or do you just tighten it down
MrSubaru, do you think the Company23 tool designed to hold the ej255 Intake AVCS Intake Pulley from the anterior aspect of the pulley could damage/scratch the internal rotor/housing inside the AVCS Cam Pulley? I know this tool has been used for years, but I couldn’t find it in the FSM.. I wonder if this tool could be responsible for metal shavings ending up inside the gear after trying to break free the super tight cam bolts.. Most people never open those AVCS pulleys because they’re “non-serviceable items”.. shouldn’t they require service too?
Company 23 makes a lot of good tools, but I don't use their external AVCS pulley holder. Can easily mess them up. I use the factory tool equivalent, CTA 7615.
Thanks for the video, just a couple of points: * 1/2" socket is actually 1/2" drive to 13mm. Slight difference but could make a big difference. My rear diff fill plug is kind of starting to round out by PO and I need to change the fluid, hope I can get it done. * Air compressor issues: (AvE) czcams.com/video/cfjSm_ieRkE/video.html * Any tips how to remove drain plug from front diff? T70 fits but sucker is on T I G H T. I've been working out and still can't get my breaker bar to budge. Should I go at it with the jack pushing the bar?
What does an AvE's video on air compressors have to do with this video? As far as the drain, either someone cross threaded it or you're turning it the wrong way. It shouldn't be that tight.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks a lot for taking the time to read and reply to my comment, I'm a big fan. Sorry my comments probably came off a bit curt, it was late and had been a long day, and I didn't take the time to fill it out a bit better. Guess I have a lot of things cross-threaded on this car, ugh. First was the downward O2 sensor (in the downpipe after turbo) and now it seems the T70 diff drain. Just my luck. I think my comment was in regards to a comment you made in the video about your compressor not keeping up (with what, I can't recall at this moment), and seemed maybe related to the air compressor video AvE recently put out. Not trying to hijack your channel!!!Thanks again!
@@bierbrauer11 oh right. I didn't mention I was using the cordless Dewalt compressor to do that cylinder leakage test when I normally use my large shop compressor. Forgot about that.
Hey Brother I’m speaking from experience. I was struggling in the heat the first time I ever changed oil in Subaru when I first got my Forester. I jacked up and supported and I came in from the side saw the plug and drained my front differential! 🙈 I immediately knew what happened when I saw that beautiful red expensive fluid pouring into my contaminated drain pan! 🤫 I have learned so much since that day! 🥲❤️🖖🏼🇺🇸
I in recent months got that spill free funnel. Though I have over the years bought some other stuff. That cam gear tool comes in handy so long at the cam bolt does not strip out. I actually bought a smoke machine for leaks as well. Been hunting gremlins hiding in the systems here and there. Thing I found really handy is getting that cheap transmission jack that Harbor Freight has. That has saved me soo much time and headache removing and installing the transmission in mine.
Pipe plug socket for the rear diff is a 13mm, not 1/2". Japanese, duh. Made the correction in the tool list in the description.
i wanted to ask your opinion on impact drivers... so i have been practicing on working on the ej25 series engines keeping it in the bay, currently I am working on the 253 sohc and the damn cam sprocket bolts have been giving me a run for my money. do you know of an electric impact that is powerful and slim enough to fit in that small area that can pull that bolt? i bought the special cam tools and used a hollow bar with my 1/2 in breaker, but all that happened was the bolt got marred to all hell, so now i have a bolt remover socket. im debating on pulling it to fix it but i am curious if i can find an impact that i can use and avoid pulling the block. thanks in advance
The new stubby M12 1/2 or 3/8 impact would be my recommendation. Just bought the 3/8" and love it. 250ft.lbs of torque. It's a compact beast.
On rusty cars, a 1/2" can round out the inside of the drain plug.
Found a set of square and triangle sockets which included the 13mm Sq for $30 on ebay. Are they great sockets? Probably not but did the job for the rear differential even if I only use it once they were worth it. The special socket alone was $30 if you could find one in stock.
@@emiliog.4432 have them. Now. Lol
You never go wrong buying the right tool.
As always, solid video. Can't believe it took me this long to find it but glad I did. Just discovered and bought a Company23 cv axle roll pin punch, can't wait to use it!
The coolant funnel was one of my favourite tools. Used it all the time as a mechanic.
Thanks for this. I love wrenching on my old subarus 96 impreza and 06 2.5i impreza.
I in recent months got that spill free funnel. Though I have over the years bought some other stuff. That cam gear tool comes in handy so long at the cam bolt does not strip out. I actually bought a smoke machine for leaks as well. Been hunting gremlins hiding in the systems here and there. Thing I found really handy is getting that cheap transmission jack that Harbor Freight has. That has saved me soo much time and headache removing and installing the transmission in mine.
I have been working on Subaru engines since 1982 with the EA82 engine right up to the new FA/FB( which are shit) would have loved this stuff years ago, do yourselves a favour and buy the tools that will make your life much easier, thank you young man for showing this, even old dogs can learn new tricks.
Just found this although some of your links have been broken, this type of video is just what I needed to know the specialty tools for my Outback! Thank you!
Thanks for the oil funnel recommendation. I see my other funnel and towards the end of filling up some oil spilled out and had to degrease and clean it.
Subaru specialty tools are good to be familiar with. Thumb up.
What a great video!!! This kinda info saves money for routine Maintenance. Thank you so much for all your films you have covered on vital important info of maintaining these engines...
Great video. Tons of helpful tools! I bought the P&L Motorsports Engine Builder Super Pack for $150 you get the cam seal installer, the front crank tool, the rear crank tool, and covers for the intake and exhaust ports. All made in the US, by P&L. It is night and day difference using the correct installers for these seals. I’ve been meaning to get some of those Company 23 tools, looks like I’ll be making a cart soon enough, lol.
Into the Dirt Shop did that drained the CVT thinking it was the oil. Really good Video..... Thank You
Outstanding Presentation. Thank you !
It really *is* the 21st century... tools that help you not spill & leak! Amazing it took so long. Great videos!
Yes sir you are correct on the drain plug near the oil filter for the EZ36, I just did my coolant last winter and all I did was a drain and refill on the radiator using that funnel that you have which came in handy! This winter I will drain and refill the radiator again even though Subaru says I don’t have to do it for 12 years my car is six years old I figured I would just do it halfway anyway!
I have a '10 Impreza 2.5i with the EJ253 and I have 2 separate belts. And shortly after buying the car I had my A/C - alternator and I watched a short video on how to do it and it was so bloody easy!!!
Awesome video. Starting to buy some of these tolls.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to share. Cheers
Yellow engine oil filler funnel fits perfectly. 2021 Subaru Ascent. Thanks
I definitely need that compression tester always good to have one
The 32mm deep socket also works for installing your front crankshaft plug, perfect diameter for hammering it in w out hurting anything else.
All excellent advice. Thanks Mr. Subaru !!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Company 23 cam pulley tool is really good but add cam locking tool for timing belt change. It really reduce the metal stress. The power tool one also works on EJ20G.
So good . The info in these are priceless. If someone has a Check Engine light and code stored and can’t make it to a shop, find a friend or family member with a Cobb Accessport to read codes. The Cobb Subaru tuning device can read all Subaru codes and offer insight into the fix and or common parts giving more information on the code and not just reading it. Doesn’t matter what Subaru the Cobb is for it will read Subaru codes.
A lot of subarus you can put the ignition in the “ON” position, turn your lights on, press the “odometer/trip reset” button 4 times, lights off, press the button 4 times again, lights back on, press the button 4 more times and it will show your engine codes in the odometer display. Had to do it yesterday for a C0042 on my wrx haha.
Thats crazy i have the same obd2 scanner. Had it for years best investment i made
Brilliant video bloke. Love it.
Spill free funnel is an absolute must for anyone who wants to do any kind of work that requires draining/filling the cooling system
And if you're like me you will end up buying like 3 or 4 of them because the adapters somehow walk away like
Even with moving over to using a vacuum cooling system tester/filler tool a spill free is just a requirement
Also I'm surprised how different that rear crank seal tool is compared to the factory tool... I still have a ton of the factory tools that I bought when I worked at the dealership because people didn't know how to put anything back where it goes and I would waste time (alot of time normally) when I needed it to complete my job... exspensive ya but paid for themselves many times over now
astro subaru ball joint puller for the main one in the knuckle, worth the 30 bucks
Great video 👍 thanks for all the information.
You're welcome 👍🏻
Yes, the EG33 has metal pulleys. I also use the Company 23 cam tool for my EJ25D, but if it's not in car I won't use it. I prefer pulling the VC and using a wrench on the cam itself. I've had those pulleys break even with the proper tool. Yes, they get obscenely tight.
Super useful information. Thanks.
On the stretch belt it can be done by hand (belt side) and turn the crank with a 22m socket. it gets pinchy but doable, an 8mm box wrench bolted on the top end as a guide helps but not needed.
Thanks . You the best .
Worth buying that 13mm pipe plug for the differential..
if you use a 1/2 inch you are bit undersized and you could slip off or round a tightly torqued or old plug .
Thanks for making this video this is awesome
Great Video!
Awesome!
Really helpful presentation
The OTC 5900A-Plus: Torx Plus Master Kit includes the T70 in half inch square drive.
Also the roll pin punch is a must but I found it easier to get the pins started back in the axles with an old 1/4 socket extension that I don't care to beat up but dropping the pin into the 1/4" square hole that the ratchet would go and just tap it in a bit till it's good and started...but just my experience
Thank you for this.
You're welcome 👍🏻
Nice collection and explanations of these specialty tools. But I’m sure you must have also many specialty tools that have eventually proven themselves to be somewhat useless or redundant. I’ve collected a couple over the years
Hey buddy, love your videos and used to love wrenching on older Subarus. However, both my wife and I, and all the recent Subarus I've done maintenance on, are FB engines. Any experience with those yet? Specifically wondering about engine block drains but just a suggestion for the future in your videos to mention the FB engines and tools needed for those. Thanks for posting man love your vids
THANKS!
Very nice
A 1-1/4 inch socket is half a smidgen tighter on the axle nut than 32 mm.
I'd add a strut nut socket. Tough to hold the strut shaft while tightening the nut without it.
You almost make me wanna buy a Subaru
I know this is off topic, but any tips /tricks on how to replace the wheel studs on a 2005 legacy 2.5i 5speed. Thanks
Great tools, but for timing belt job would be the camgear lock tool of company 23. That would finish the tools recommendation.
I've had no need for the cam lock. Rarely do they spin on me and when they do, they're easy to rotate back into place. The time taken to set the tool would be the same as me just replacing the belt anyways.
I do recommend to use CTA Tools 7615 Camshaft Holder or the OEM 499977500; since I have already experienced one Intake Cam Sprocket ruing since the tool from Company23 Subaru AVCS Intake Cam Sprocket Tool hold the Intake Sprocket from the outside and there is a small ping broken inside the Intake Cam Sprocket
Also for those searching for Subaru Tools (sorry they are really expensive)
subaruretailersolutions.com/tools
Doesn't the clutch fork pivot pin cap use a 14mm allen key bit to remove it on STI/H6 6 speed boxes ??
I recently replaced a center differential on a 2000 Forester. Took some effort to drive the pin holding the shift linkage in place at the rear of the transmission case. Do they make a special tool for driving that pin out?
Great info mate, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I've recently purchased a 2013 Tribeca that's due for some maintenance and have found your videos to be really helpful.
Just have a question about doing a drain and fill on the auto transmission: Is it okay to use a different synthetic transmission fluid to what it's currently using? The mechanic that last serviced it, used 'Total - Fluidmatic' synthetic auto trans fluid, but this isn't available for retail purchase.
It's not recommended to mix fluids. You'd have to see how compatible that fluid is. Or if it's supposed to be a "universal" fluid. You should have GM Dexron or Subaru ATF-HP in it. Can't remember what year they changed over.
Man, I had the dealership try the read diff on my 2009 outback. They nor I could get the drain plug out
I got a question. What socket size/specialty tool do I need to remove the nut on the end of the input shaft to start pulling gears off and what size is the nut on the output shaft right behind 5th gear? Thanks!
Question: Some (but not all, oddly) of the Subaru cam sprockets on the 2.5L SOHC have 1 plastic cam sprocket and 1 metal cam sprocket. The 2nd cam pulley tool listed below works for the metal one, but what works for the plastic one? Does that DOHC tool work for the SOHC plastic sprocket, or is there another tool out for that? TIA.
I have a 2001 Subaru Forester and was wanting to drain the rear end differential oil...Is the Plug interchangeable to a Torx Plug?
Mine is the counter sunk 13mm/ ......
I also want to change the seal oil ring on the oil drain adapter ( holds the filter ) I’ve seen videos that have flexible radiator hoses that allow the oil adapter to move out of the way....On mine, do I remove the radiator??
What do you recommend OBD Tester for personal use I have Legacy GT 2006 EJ20X engine 5EAT
Saving my ass everyday on my 05 😂
nope!
Need to have them all now!
2009 Forester SOHC EJ has a stretch belt on the AC compressor.
Unfortunately. Hate Subaru ever put those on.
Hey there! first of all thank you so much for your'e time spent on making these awsome videos!
my ez30R is giving me hell and i fixed so much with your'e help and saved tons of money :)
also, i would like to ask if you have a idea where i could get a replacement tool for subaru's ST used to adjust the front and rear differential preload.
i use a hammer and a kind of plastic chisel but it wont always work...(if i cant find one ill just solder me one.) replaced my transmission from my 2004 5eat from a legacy sedan and accidently installed one from a 2006 outback, bouth 5EAt for EZ30R thought they were the same but now i found out the final drive on the 2006 outback is different...(same final drive as the turbo gt 5eat 3.027 vs mine which is 3.272.) any idea what else is different? i have got p0715 and cant go past 3rd gear :( i have swapped out the front diff and problem remained the same. every dissasembly and reassembly of this transmission is a true hassle to do in my yard :) if you know any thing it would mean the world, i'm out of ideas...
If the ratios are off the car should torque bind. That can tear up the rear diff and or center diff. I wouldn't drive it until you have the correct transmission with the correct gear ratio.
Will these tools still work for the 2019+ models on the global platform?
???
Choice tekton ?? for roll pin punch still apply ?? And what 2 sizes do I need for gear shift linkage roll pins/ in and outer pin
Help appreciated
are you stand in-between Floor Joists with your demo table being a floor substrate - if so, cool?
I am. Haha. 😂 In the middle of renovating my house, so yeah, that's my living room. If you're interested in the reno, check my second channel CZcams.com/athomeonthefarm
This is great! Just what I was looking for to do some easy maintenance on my Subaru. Do you have a particular torque wrench that you would recommend?
The OTC are very good and I love mine
FYI that roll pin is still the same set up even on my model!!
What size for outer and inner pins
Thanks 😊
Looking for the special tool 18630aa010 for the rear differential ... Do you sell it ?? Thanks
Roll pin punch( sizes) for gear shift linkage outer and inner pin
Length too
????
93 subaru non turbo awd ej22 h4 2.2l
Saludos 👍podrías ayudar me a conseguir esta herramienta MAC ET1 , cockpit tester
@MrSubaru1387 Do you happen to know if codes produced from Japan model Subaru Forester 2018 will be the same as international models? I am considering getting a code reader for SJ (Japan model).
Thank you, this is great info!! Just one big question, which oil filter removal tool would you recommend. Took my car to a Subaru dealer for a oil change 3k miles ago, now I want to change the oil but the tech tightened the filter so hard, I can't take it out. Any ideas.....? Thank you.
It's an 09 outback
I just use a regular oil filter cup. Can't recall the size off hand. I'll try to look it up for you.
@@MrSubaru1387 thank you....can't find the right size, thank you!
@SenselessTuning I use a 6in crescent brand slip joint pliers to get my oil filters loose. Then it is off and on by hand. Be careful though and make sure you're twisting on axis with the threads. You can bend or break the oil filter bracket with that tool if you are are not careful.
Quick question for you amigo - do you know if the 7/32"/5.5mm roll pin in the CV axles is the same as the roll pin that's on the shifter linkage?
Did you find out??
i'm replacing my timing belt. any tips or advice. Do I need those special tools? can do them without them? Do I need that tool to take off crank pulley? Do I need that special tool to keep both cam in place when putting on the belt?? thanks
I've replace the timing belt with no special tools. They aren't necessarily required, but they make life so much easier.
I'm not sure how you would tighten the crank bolt without a crank pulley wrench. Probably a 22 mm deep socket for the crank pulley bolt. The cam pulleys wrenches are absolutely not necessary however it is very difficult to align the cam pulley by hand if the cam pulleys rotate (at service position my driver's side head had compressed valves and the pulley wanted to turn with the lightest bump) so take special care not to move them or see if your local auto parts store can lend you a tool for them. My father used a simple trick of paper clips to hold the timing belt on the pulleys. I bought that funnel filler tool, loved it (not strictly essential but made refilling the coolant drop dead easy). Torque wrench is probably a must though. You can get by with the harbor frieght 50-150 ft/lbs one ($20 on sale).
So I have a check engine light on in my Subaru what do you think it is? Lol. Great video
@@scottfirman If solid, i've got $20 on o2 sensor gone bad. Get a code reader.
P0420 lol
Scott Crawford check your flux capacitor
its the alterstator. ita always the alterstator😑
Do you do any engine swapping? I’m working on a project and would love to see how you make it work.
Put a pair gloves on and crank manually rapping your hand over the top. Boom, it’s on!
Ugh I could use those tools for my 92 svx timing belt job.. 😑
What about a 4.4mm Hex tool to remove the 4 counter sunk oil pump bolts on EZ30.
Did you ever figure out a good solution I’m wondering as well
No
Because I will probably never attempt to do another EZ30
I’m looking in to buying a 99 Subaru Legacy outback for 600$ it’s going to need a new water pump and head gasket would it be worth my money and time to get it and have it as a project to do this winter or is it a waste of time?
I can't say. I buy old Subarus in the same condition for $200-600 and flip them for profit. I don't know your skill level to know if it would be a wise project/investment for you.
Brian Mitchell be honest... what’s your skill level/comfort level... and what tools do you have and are you doing this inside or outside
I thought it is frowned upon to open up the block plug to let the coolant out since once you do that it never seals up properly again
What? 😂 😂 😂
@@MrSubaru1387 I was asking around in the different Subaru communities with respect to changing coolant and a lot of folks have said to leave those block plugs alone since once you crack it open it will prone to leak once you put it back on even if you seal it
Absolutely false. These people must be horrible with mechanical work if they can’t get those plugs to seal…. 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
@@MrSubaru1387 i’m going to be doing a timing belt replacement I will definitely use your videos to help me out thank you! Is there something that you put on the threads on the block seals to keep from leaking or do you just tighten it down
@@MrSubaru1387 Just to be clear I am referring to those plugs on the 12 minute 6 second mark
You forgot the ball joint removal tool
NOT a "tool question; can you tell us please at how many years should we change out all the coolant hoses on a 2013 Crosstrek Limited, please? TIA!!
Hoses, kind of a check and replace deal. No set mileage/time interval.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thank you! Mine look feel good will be 9 years old next month, so am concerned. Same for the thermostat.
MrSubaru, do you think the Company23 tool designed to hold the ej255 Intake AVCS Intake Pulley from the anterior aspect of the pulley could damage/scratch the internal rotor/housing inside the AVCS Cam Pulley? I know this tool has been used for years, but I couldn’t find it in the FSM.. I wonder if this tool could be responsible for metal shavings ending up inside the gear after trying to break free the super tight cam bolts.. Most people never open those AVCS pulleys because they’re “non-serviceable items”.. shouldn’t they require service too?
Company 23 makes a lot of good tools, but I don't use their external AVCS pulley holder. Can easily mess them up. I use the factory tool equivalent, CTA 7615.
@@MrSubaru1387 I couldn’t agree more. Thank you
forgot the rack end remover tool
Are you a musician?
Pity I can't afford any of them lol
😥
the thread funnel for subaru is not fit on subaru tribeca.
How's that? It works on the H6 engines.
@@MrSubaru1387 thight space radiator cap was blocking the way?
Thanks for the video, just a couple of points:
* 1/2" socket is actually 1/2" drive to 13mm. Slight difference but could make a big difference. My rear diff fill plug is kind of starting to round out by PO and I need to change the fluid, hope I can get it done.
* Air compressor issues: (AvE) czcams.com/video/cfjSm_ieRkE/video.html
* Any tips how to remove drain plug from front diff? T70 fits but sucker is on T I G H T. I've been working out and still can't get my breaker bar to budge. Should I go at it with the jack pushing the bar?
$5 you're tightening it, lol
What does an AvE's video on air compressors have to do with this video? As far as the drain, either someone cross threaded it or you're turning it the wrong way. It shouldn't be that tight.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks a lot for taking the time to read and reply to my comment, I'm a big fan. Sorry my comments probably came off a bit curt, it was late and had been a long day, and I didn't take the time to fill it out a bit better.
Guess I have a lot of things cross-threaded on this car, ugh. First was the downward O2 sensor (in the downpipe after turbo) and now it seems the T70 diff drain. Just my luck. I think my comment was in regards to a comment you made in the video about your compressor not keeping up (with what, I can't recall at this moment), and seemed maybe related to the air compressor video AvE recently put out. Not trying to hijack your channel!!!Thanks again!
@@bierbrauer11 oh right. I didn't mention I was using the cordless Dewalt compressor to do that cylinder leakage test when I normally use my large shop compressor. Forgot about that.
@@evanchi9460 LOL I'll have to double check! Not reverse threaded is it?
Hey Brother I’m speaking from experience. I was struggling in the heat the first time I ever changed oil in Subaru when I first got my Forester. I jacked up and supported and I came in from the side saw the plug and drained my front differential! 🙈 I immediately knew what happened when I saw that beautiful red expensive fluid pouring into my contaminated drain pan! 🤫 I have learned so much since that day! 🥲❤️🖖🏼🇺🇸
Doesn’t the front diff take gear fluid?
I in recent months got that spill free funnel. Though I have over the years bought some other stuff. That cam gear tool comes in handy so long at the cam bolt does not strip out. I actually bought a smoke machine for leaks as well. Been hunting gremlins hiding in the systems here and there. Thing I found really handy is getting that cheap transmission jack that Harbor Freight has. That has saved me soo much time and headache removing and installing the transmission in mine.