Sir I so appreciate your content. And it's precisely BECAUSE you offer it for FREE that I am going to donate to your patreon account. I hope others will see the sense and benefit of paying you your due. You have such an incredible knack for explaining complex subjects with a simple thoroughness that is thankfully never dumbed down. Even basic subjects you go into wonderful detail which is many times difference between understanding and not. Thank you for your service
Thank you for donating your personal time to share these great tips. I appreciate it very much & watch so many of your videos. I have learned a great deal thanks to your generosity of knowledge.
Very interesting and one of my favorite subjects! I learned my soldering skills from, all people!, my mother. She worked, in the early sixties, at Conrac making point to point connections on CRT monitors for the Apollo space projects. Of course, at 12, I didn't know she was teaching me mil spec soldering techniques, and it sure did help me in my career. The next "teacher' of soldering was Heath Kit kits! Their first lesson was soldering. In it, I learned about eutectic solder: the 63/37 which you mentioned. It had at the time, the lowest melting point of 361F and helped me solder with least dwell time on sensitive components. Later on, when SMT came about, the 62/36/02 (Ag) came into play with an even lower range of 354-372F. I prefer to use this now because of the benefits of lower dwell time (leaves a nice, shiny connection) and the silver provides a better electrical conductivity not to mention a harder one. Thanks for the presentation and a great memory journey! BTW, my mother taught me to always clean the resin from the completed connections. Makes the job look neater (and was required for mil spec work).
Great Tips - things about Solder I never knew. I was always the guy who hovered the aisles, never could decide which to buy. Thank you!!! Great idea on the Hot Glue removal.
A little tip on using flux pens that I find works good. The reason the pen sometimes pours out the flux is the pressure difference caused by air temperature. Example: You use the flux pen on a cool day then the next time you use it, it is a hot day. The increase in temperature will cause pressure inside the pen which will push out a lot of flux once you depress the tip. To prevent this from happening, I store my flux pens with the tip pointing upwards so all flux will flow away from the tip. Then before using the pen, with the tip still pointing upwards (do not let the pen become inverted when you pick it up), I use the cap to press the tip down to equalize the pressure inside the pen. After that, use it normally. One last tip. Since I really like using flux pens, once it is empty, tap a small fitting onto the end then refill them and place a cap onto the fitting. They can be filled many times over.
Indeed, Roy. I travel and do some "spot repairs" in Flagstaff at about 6900 feet above sea level, and when I leave Phoenix I am at 1132 feet altitude, so I have dumped most of a flux pen out in one attempted application. Some of them ooze out in the tool case, and make a big sticky mess. I hope to be relocating, and working between two locations, between 4500 and 6700 feet altitudes, with some excursions to 12,000 feet, and those pens have to stay tip up. Those yellow junk yard paint marking pens will do the same thing. I use those to document various stuff inside PLCs, mining and other equipment. Mostly mining and construction equipment, where any paper docs would get lost before I make it off the property at the end of the day.
its caused due to you squeezing the sides pushing it out as you try and grip it with enough force to push it down its that simple you way over thought that 1 lol
You are so right about that tip cleaner. Had mine now for about 6 months and I still can't quite believe how clean the tip of my iron is now. I did not know about the wet sponge problem, I wish I had before but certainly useful to know even though I've not used a sponge since I bought the tip cleaner.
A few millennia ago, I graduated from a course given by the RCA Institutes and did a little repair work as a side interest. I have already learned more from watching a few of your videos than I did from the entire RCA course.
Thank you so much for the tips! Sometimes I have to repair car modules, and working on ceramic substrate boards really requires you to have good state of mind before working on them haha. Now I feel more prepared for the next one to come.
Thank you Mr.Carlson for all the very useful and informative videos. Just what I needed as I bought my first analog soldering station and I'm learning my soldering chops.
You’re 100% correct about the pens being expensive and gushing out if you’re not careful, but they are sooooo convenient, esp when working in the field. It’s really easy to refill the pens with the needle applicator bottle, just invert with the felt removed and use something to depress the ball valve and squirt the rosin in, letting gravity do the rest. I’ve had a hard time finding any info on strengths of different hot glues; would be interesting to hear your experience. I finally ran out of my giant box of circa-1980 “Craftsman” hot glue and haven’t found anything it’s equal yet. Just found your channel while researching info for a restoration I am embarking on of a pair of EL34-based Heathkit AA-10 35W monos that my late grandfather built back in the day. Loving the content. Thanks !
You can buy the small diameter solder for most applications. If you need bigger solder wire, pull out 3 feet of the small stuff. fold it in half or thirds, then twist it into a single strand of larger size.
I took your advice and bought some 10 AWG solid copper wire for my Weller Industrial Soldering Gun. Wow was I impressed! The copper went to five hundred degrees Celsius in no time and it cooled just as quickly. It's a good idea and thanks for sharing your advice.
I have a roll of the organic solder I've used it a few times but wasn't aware that it would remove the tin. Lots of good info there look forward to the next restore video have a great day.
Many thanks, this is a really great video for a beginner like me. One question, I see that you can get solder from the same range, but with core sizes varying from 1.8 to 3%. Is there a specific preference or reason for wanting a higher or lower percentage?
Mr. Carlson, I want to thank you for sharing the depth of your knowledge with me. It excites me greatly to increase my knowledge of everything related to my profession and continue to add new skills to my resume. As your follower, I no longer question the L, I just pronounce it! Thanks and 73's, Anthony Reo
Great video!! 63/37 at 0.032" from Kester is my everyday solder, it works beautifully for most things. For surface mount I've mostly moved to using solder paste. And if the .032 is too thin for heavy joints, you can just twist two strands of it together to feed it faster and keep dwell times short.
hi i thought everyday solder mostly is surface mount type like in phone or laptop pcb? for laptop and phone should use the kester one ya, may i know what are some items that are heavy jointed?
@@osirusj275 Connectors and large capacitors and inductors are the things that commonly remain as through-hole components. It’s been 5 years since I posted my comment, and in that time I’ve become much more comfortable with smaller parts, so I do more SMD with solder paste or thinner solder. Still, 0.5mm and 0.7-0.8mm are my most common sizes of solder wire.
Mr. Carlson, I pronounce solder the way Webster’s dictionary indicates it should be pronounced. My point of pronunciation was just an opinion. Another opinion I have is that your knowledge of electronics is awesome; I have been soldering since 1951 and thought thatI knew the subject fairly well but I learned several things watching your video.. My profession before retiring was Theoretical Physics; Electronics is just a hobby of mine. I felt I have a fairly well equipped electronics workbench until I see yours. Yours is better equipped than those of several large companies I have worked for. I enjoy your videos VERY much. I’m sorry if I offended you, I was only pointing out that your pronunciation of solder goes against the popular American usage. My eight years of college was just the beginning of my education; I will continue to learn new things as long as I live. I have many interests, Electronics is just one. My main interests are Physics, Flying (I am an Instrument rated Commercial Pilot), Guitar, Computers, and Mathematics. I look forward to learning as much as I can from your excellent videos.
As a Briton, "sod" doesn't just refer to peat; it's short for "sodomite". You will appreciate how awkward "Sodder" sounds to the wider English speaking world. The French variant "souder" or "soudur" would be pronounced like the name Soderberg. That would be absolutely fine. But sodder? That sounds like the serf who has to dildo a heifer to collect sêmen.
I had to go mostly lead free and I only use Kester k100ld .8 mm. I believe it is the best lead free available for a reasonable price and It flows nice and is very clean and I`m happy with it. But I still sneak in some leaded solder on critical joints. I also love the Cardas quad eutectic solder for audio connections and power connections. Thank you Mr Carlson love your videos.
Another choice for small squeeze bottles are available from Pro's Kit. They sell a Flux bottle 2 pack part # MS-035. Do not try old medical syringes. The chemicals in the flux slowly dissolve the rubber part of the plunger resulting in a sticky black goo that clogs up the needle.
As the years go by it is easy to think we know it all, my 65years has yet again taught me that I DONT know it all. Excellent information and plenty for me to experiement with. Top man.
Interesting about the hot glue. I wonder if hairspray would work the same? You can use it to remove rubber handgrips from handlebars - it works like magic.
Just picked up a soldering station after countless frustrated attempts with those plug-and-play irons that come with hobby kits. Trying to get my head around the relationship(s) between solder, flux, oxidisation, etc. My understanding is that it's really a matter of feel that comes with practise, but it's great to have a general idea of what's going on both thermally and chemically. (It almost goes without saying that the hardest part about learning to "solder" is dealing with pedants' insistence on the pronunciation of the word. 😉) Just wanted to say a big thanks for all the knowledge you share! I've been watching your restoration videos and marvelling at the depth and detail of your knowledge, not to mention your infinite patience. Also, the solder I grabbed out of a bucket of different kinds (just to get started somewhere with this station) is a 60/40 .032" RA flux core - so, coincidentally, I've got a little more confidence, thanks to your recommendation!
Many years ago I worked as an electronics tech at a factory that was building equipment for the military. We were working 24/7, and the soldering irons were never shut off. I noticed that the soldering irons seemed cheap, but the tips were high-quality Hexacon. They replaced a tip every now and then but not often, which I thought was impressive considering the 24/7 operation. So, I bought aa few Hexacon tips for my own use.
Use 63/37 solder (eutectic) rather than 60/40 (non-eutectic). Here’s why (Wiki excerpt): “…some alloys are eutectic - that is, the alloy's melting point is the lowest possible for a mixture of those components, and coincides with the freezing point. Non-eutectic alloys can have markedly different solidus and liquidus temperatures, as they have distinct liquid and solid transitions. Non-eutectic mixtures often exist as a paste of solid particles in a melted matrix of the lower-melting phase as they approach high enough temperatures. In electrical work, if the joint is disturbed while in this "pasty" state before it fully solidifies, a poor electrical connection may result; use of eutectic solder reduces this problem.”
That is so great to know. I've reheated lots of solder joints that ended up with that grainy crystallized appearance. I was taught that was a "cold" solder joint.
Very enlightening presentation, especially when dealing with a variety of repairs that work best under the right conditions. I tend to use the 60/40 type solder that seems to work well for most applications.
Thanks for self-sponsoring another informative PSA for the electronic hoi polloi like me. As always, it's learning made easy and entertaining-undoubtedly the result of a lot of knowledge, experience, careful planning, and peerless production values on your part, not to slight esthetics and integrity. Would appreciate knowing your views on the toxicity of soldering fumes, and cost-benefit considerations of the options to deal with them. Be well!
Aloha from Capt. Glenn in Hawaii….I love your “ever-green “ videos! They are treasury in a compulsive product test culture of rapid fire quickly ,rushed videos. They stand the test of time.
Great information!, I just can't get used to saying solder pronouncing the "L"...LOL I have a 5 pound roll of thick 50/50 rosin core solder and it works great, I used to do antique radio & TV as a hobby and also used 60/40 solder. What do you think of the 50/50 solder for point to point and simple PC work? Thanks for your videos, I enjoy watching even though I no longer do this work because of poor eyesight and no shop.
@@peshmadscientist1833 You don't want to use 'plumbers solder' as it isn't rosin flux cored. If you get the solid wire stuff, the lack of rosin core defeats the purpose of using it, making soldering easier. Even if it is flux cored, it's plumbers solder, so it's too aggressive for electronics work. It will corrode the traces.
@@rich1051414 thanks. Good point, that plumbers flux is super-aggressive. Ive never seen flux cored plumbers solder, but the solid stuff is probably the only way to get some 50/50 . Use your own favourite flux.
Your tip about that Brillo pad type cleaner for the iron tip: Brilliant. THank you for that. I also really found this entire video handy. I recently got into building tube amps point to point. Hugely helpful.
+Mr Carlson's Lab Very informative video. I really liked your video on the capacitors being in the right way. I'm rebuilding and amp that I build due to some hiss and crackle at high volume that I could never resolve. I bought a low buck oscilloscope off of eBay and I'll use that to make sure the caps are properly shielded. With regard to my amp, I might have had a grounding issue which I have a plan to resolve. Do you happen to have a grounding or star grounding backgrounder/explanation video? Thanks! Bart
Hello Paul, thank you for taking the time to make this awesome video, very much appreciated. looking forward to your new restoration video. thanks again.
will be interesting for sure, your wealth of knowledge is second to none. is there a test for such a thing!!!, thank you for shedding some much needed light on solder, that is with an L ! . I call it solder not sodder. a guy that taught me a lot about electricity a long time ago burned that into my brain. he was the electrical engineer for van halen a long time ago. need to go do some more snow blowing, were getting it pretty good, here in new york. thank you Paul.
must be nice!! I like the snow, was in a bad snow machine accident a few years ago, broke my back in 3 places my neck in two places, all my ribs accept one. severe concussion, many other things too many to mention. no more snowmobiles for me. still ride my motorcycles and bicycles though. I am lucky to be alive!!. just got done walking around with the snow blower, that is a good workout!!. best wishes to you my friend, stay dry and warm.
A most helpful post! Two questions. 1) Have you ever tried Naphtha as a solvent-based cleaner? We used it in the Air Force for field maintenance and it cleans extremely well for both PCB prep and residue cleaning. 2) I'm wondering if you could address desoldering these "hard-to-work-with" eutectic alloy solder-dipped PCBs that are now used on nearly all PCBs in electronics manufacturing. I've been unable to find much internet info on the safe melting point to avoid PCB damage. It seems this new eutectic dipping alloy is preferred in production as it solidifies rapidly. It's down side is once hardened it's nearly irreversible. Even with a quality station I find this solder a pain to break loose even after thorough prepping and using the old solder heat-bridging technique. I'd like to see how you deal with such stubborn solder connections using this fickle eutectic solder.
The Air Force allowed many chemicals to be used over the years with many of them causing harm in the long term. Naptha isn't particularly human friendly.
Love your videos ... but ... take this as a constructive hint :) ... can you please mention measurements in the International System :) 0.032'' is 0.8mm ... I had to look that up :) Those on the other side of the pond and worldwide seeing your videos will be please :)
This would be the first video I have seen and I learned a lot of new and very informative details and varieties of leads and fluxes and etc.....thank you sir and God speed!More power to you!
+Eric Wasatonic Thanks Eric! Looking forward to a new video from you too. Those old blinking Christmas lights on that transformer was really cool (kinda artsy) Just watched the HP documentary as well, What a great story....
"I do pronounce the 'l' in solder." Trigger warning for Americans. (And boy does that trigger them. Check the comments under literally any non-American electronics video. Not real aware of their relative position in the world, that lot.) Fabulous job as always, Mr. C.
Very good. U hit me right on the head. If I didn't watch ur vdo, I will make alot of mistakes when choosing the soldering flux wire. Thanks so much my friend.
Pace worldwide actually made tutorials for soldering and board repair in the 70's, they uploaded the videos to their channel.. first video you can find on youtube is called "Basic soldering Lesson 1 : Solder and Flux", the lessons goes on to the different soldering techniques for different soldering terminals, and then goes on to board repair, even multi-layer board repair... very interesting stuff.
I haven't heard you talked about (have I missed it?) the Lead Free (100% tin) solder which in my opinion in horrible and people should be warned when dealing with this type and perhaps stay away.
Been soldering for a couple years but really wanted to know what exactly I should be using to get the best results that's the easiest and least time consuming. Ive been using walmart rosin core solder(it's cheap an locally avaliable, frys is a bit of a drive) with liquid rosin when I need a little faster melting and adhesion. You answered my question immediatly. I already had 63 37 no clean .032 in my shopping cart but wanted to make sure it was the best choice for guitar pedals/ through hole pcb, guitar electronics and tube amp pcb's(and possibly I'll get into SMD pedals in the near future, but if I can avoid using a solder paste and just use what I use for everything else that would be great). You answered my questions right off the bat. GREAT video! Ive had no issues with lead free solder but having to use even more flux externally before flowing a joint(when I'm grounding to the back of a pot for example) is messy and time consuming so I wanted to give leaded solder a go. From what I understand if I can get lead free to work for me then leaded will just make things that much easier. Now this could be incorrect but it's possible I heard somewhere that no clean leaded solder can be messier than other solders. This goes against what I would assume but is there any truth to that? Once again excellent video, thanks! Edit: Yes! I recently bought a solder tip cleaner(brass shaving style) cause I was going through tips too quickly with a sponge but your statement confirmed it was infact the use of a sponge. I was able to bring 75% of my tips back to life with the tip cleaner(brass shavings) and tip tinner. Ive also made a rosin dispenser out of a small plastic bottle and a needle tip, works GREAT! Wish I saw your video years ago!
Hmm ... alcohol ! Good point, will have to remember that one. All points considered though, perhaps some brandy would have yet a better appeal, say like in my shop past the midnight hours when wifey is in bed fast asleep; mua hah ha ha haahhhh ! Thanks for the "Hot tip" Mr Paul !
I dunno, it can be a little tricky to get ones head round, but if you remember 1mm is roughly .040" then it becomes easier to work from that. (or looking another way, .010" is about 0.25mm)
Very good as usual.I had a laugh though, yes its S O L D E R.I was in Portland Origon on a factory training course, it was all Kiwis and Ausys.After about 15 minutes on the first day of the course, I suddenly realised what SODER was and without thinking said out loud "OOOH SOLDER!" the Yanky instructer stoped and looked at me and all the other students in unison said "OH shit SOLDER!!"No body had any idea what the Yank was talking about for the first 15 minutes.
Mr Carlson's Lab: the worst case scenario is having to replace components on a double sided board that was manufactured with lead-free solder. I usually find that I have to apply fresh tin/ lead solder, suck that off with the solder sucker, apply more fresh tin/ lead solder, and repeat several times before we can get the component off the board, especially if it has multiple pins or if the pins fit extremely snuggly through the plated holes in the board, as so many modern circuit boards and components are being manufactured these days.....it does help to increase the temperature of the solder sucker a little bit because of the lead free solder, but then you are even more likely to damage the thin traces and pads on the board from the extra heat. Sometimes we use that chip-quick low temperature solder stuff, but it's expensive.
From the moment I discovered this channel I began pronouncing the L in solder. If Mr. Carlson does it, it must be the right way. I don't care about people thinking I'm saying it wrong, because technically I think the L should be pronounced although both are acceptable.
Just as an aside, the viewers on here who are American, the correct pronunciation is sawder or solder without the L. The Merriam Webster dictionary is pretty much the defacto source when it comes to the correct pronunciation of American English. Check their website if you don't believe me. I am an Englishman and as much as it pains me to hear and see my language getting butchered I am sharply reminded by my conscience of the fact that English is a mish-mash of several languages. Not only that, it is an ever-evolving and ever-changing language. So then, is it not fair that those who have taken this language to other parts of the globe adapt it to their own use? Keep on sawdering friends!
I'm going to get the Hakko FX888D soldering station and the .020 wire for through hole work. Between your great insight and the tools this will be easy as a Sunday morning.
Technically, if you pronounce the "L" and live in North America you are pronouncing the word incorrectly. The British pronounce the "L" as a result to change the dictate as to not represent "sodder" or someone who in slang thinks sodomy. The addendum came to be sometime in the 1920's.
+brickley2000 Not a fan of the stuff myself. I wonder when they are going to claim Tin is unfriendly? Probably the next political kick, when someone wants their name in a book.
Mr Carlson's Lab I cringe every time I think about how many tons of electronics get needlessly thrown out to landfills every day because of the prematurely failed solder joints that now occur when the manufacturers are forced to use the lead free solder during construction. But thank goodness they are making the lead free stuff more and more mandatory. And the countless babies and toddlers that are being saved from brain damage when they tear open the cases of electronics, and chew on the circuit boards.
One of the jobs I had to do working with ultra high-reliability equipment, was to de-solder all the components on DIMMs to remove the rhos-compliant tin stuff and re-solder them using a tin/lead/silver solder. This was to reduce the possibility of whiskering. 1 and 1/2 hours per DIMM, both sides, horrible job!
I used to use Hakko all the time but I have just moved over too a JBC , and its fantastic and the tips way out last the Hakko and i also use the abrasive tip cleaner .
I can certainly recommend Hakko soldering stations. I bought a refurbished 928, and I added a mains switch in the back. Otherwise, the transformer keeps humming and wasting electricity. Having two irons is so handy. You can get all kinds of tips.
Solder... saw•dur I just can't pronounce it like it's spelled. I've never heard anyone else pronounce it properly in real life. I'm in a profession where soldering is common.
@@DontEverGrowUp SHUT THE F@CK UP. In america (notice the lower case as I have no respect for a country that lets citizons die of Corona when they can't afford basic care) may be... But america makes its own damn rules lol. EVERYWHERE ELSE PRONOUNCES THE L! DO you say GOD for GOLD? SOD for SOLD?? For christs sake. IT IS - wait for it - SOL DER or if it is easier for you, SOL DUH Oh I love using learnt too. I know americans think learnt is what stupid folk use, but Learned IMO is and should be used to suggest learn-ed, as in educated. Try it some time.
@@ollyk22 Wow, such disrespect for a difference of opinion. Pronounce the word however you like and let others do the same. English is a mutt of a language so arguing over letter combinations being pronounced differently in different words is just going to drive you mad.
Mr Carlson - thanks for the video. Electronics / ham radio has been my hobby for years and I had no idea of the changes. My biggest change was in 1996 when I bought a weller tcp soldering station (lol). Thanks again
Great video Paul, Myself prefer 63/37 and when you clean it up it shines like chrome. When I took NASA soldering course, the instructors had a hard time inspecting the joints because of the shine. Keep em comming, Greg
I'm an American. We don't pronuce L's, we drink beer from any country, drive cars with 500 horsepower to go get groceries loaded with fat, half of us love Trump, half of us hate Trump, we believe all Canadians are polite even though a lot are rude asf, and our government tells us that lead free solder is best but they refuse to use it any of their own military equipment.
Lord Sebastian - ummm, no. LOL Most in the US (including this citizen) pronounces most Ls though not in solder. Most in the USA don't drive anything with 500 HP, recognizes that less than 42% approves of Trump and only about 18% 'love' him, and we also recognize that our government doesn't tell us what 'sodder' to use when we repair our equipment, but it does recognize the physical reality that since most Americans don't properly dispose of electronic waste that not dumping a known neurotoxin into the ground water benefits all. Happy New Year
@@RechargeableLithium Sorry butt Lord Sebastion is right, a helluva lot of us Americans agree with Mr Trump and we don't need to be told what kind of solder to use on our Electronics. this so called lead free solder that was jammed down our throats was nothing but B.S.. now we have electronics that fail prematurely because of it. Sorry but you are wrong.
Now if only he could also use the metric system that most of the world uses instead of that stupid imperial system. Do you really expect me to pause the video with every number he mentions and convert inches to millimeters?
Ni5ei Best to be proficient at both. Imperial is still highly useful for practical work such as carpentry where you're mostly working with ratios. 12 has many more convenient divisors/factors (/2, /3, /4, /6) making the math quick and intuitive for working on your feet. With a base of 10 you'd be dealing with a lot of decimal places working with ratios which can't be represented reasonably on a measuring tape (in base10.) eg: Say you want 1/3 of a metre, 33.3333etc. Unless you have a measuring tape with 10ths/100ths of a mm marking, you'll never get a consistent or even accurate measurement. Want a 1/3 of a foot, easy... 4 inches. A 1/4...3 inches, 1/2...6, etc.
+TekkGnostic For work like that, give or take a mm doesn't matter since the unit is already very small. A third of a meter is 333mm (forget that 0.333mm, it's negligable). Having an inch as your smallest unit is much more difficult to work with. Everything less than an inch becomes 1/16, 1/8 etc. Or, you can use decimals which makes you work metric again which is not printed on an imperial ruler.
![How A Turn Signal Flasher Blinker Works - Complete Redesign With Schematic [Tung-Sol P229D]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3ADoODcApNE/mqdefault.jpg)
![How A Turn Signal Flasher Blinker Works - Complete Redesign With Schematic [Tung-Sol P229D]](/img/tr.png)
Good to hear you guys also pronouncing the "L" in Flux 👍
underrated comment 🤣
See what you did there classic
😂😂😂that's hilarious
Fux
@@ironjavelin7482 Only idiots say SOHDER durrrr
Sir I so appreciate your content. And it's precisely BECAUSE you offer it for FREE that I am going to donate to your patreon account. I hope others will see the sense and benefit of paying you your due. You have such an incredible knack for explaining complex subjects with a simple thoroughness that is thankfully never dumbed down. Even basic subjects you go into wonderful detail which is many times difference between understanding and not. Thank you for your service
Thank you for donating your personal time to share these great tips. I appreciate it very much & watch so many of your videos. I have learned a great deal thanks to your generosity of knowledge.
ikr it’s people like this that allow me to maintain faith in humanity.
Thank you for sharing your informed insights and expertise. Your efforts are appreciated!
Very interesting and one of my favorite subjects! I learned my soldering skills from, all people!, my mother. She worked, in the early sixties, at Conrac making point to point connections on CRT monitors for the Apollo space projects. Of course, at 12, I didn't know she was teaching me mil spec soldering techniques, and it sure did help me in my career. The next "teacher' of soldering was Heath Kit kits! Their first lesson was soldering. In it, I learned about eutectic solder: the 63/37 which you mentioned. It had at the time, the lowest melting point of 361F and helped me solder with least dwell time on sensitive components. Later on, when SMT came about, the 62/36/02 (Ag) came into play with an even lower range of 354-372F. I prefer to use this now because of the benefits of lower dwell time (leaves a nice, shiny connection) and the silver provides a better electrical conductivity not to mention a harder one.
Thanks for the presentation and a great memory journey! BTW, my mother taught me to always clean the resin from the completed connections. Makes the job look neater (and was required for mil spec work).
+Yan Silva
Thanks for taking the time to write Yan! Glad you enjoyed the video.
That was a joy to read 😁👍
Very nice presentation. I went through a very similar one by my "Elmer" when I was getting into Amateur Radio.
Great Tips - things about Solder I never knew. I was always the guy who hovered the aisles, never could decide which to buy. Thank you!!! Great idea on the Hot Glue removal.
Great tips, especially about the Sponge! I’m a “Beginner” and trying to learn as much as I can, just for general around the house stuff.
A little tip on using flux pens that I find works good. The reason the pen sometimes pours out the flux is the pressure difference caused by air temperature. Example: You use the flux pen on a cool day then the next time you use it, it is a hot day. The increase in temperature will cause pressure inside the pen which will push out a lot of flux once you depress the tip. To prevent this from happening, I store my flux pens with the tip pointing upwards so all flux will flow away from the tip. Then before using the pen, with the tip still pointing upwards (do not let the pen become inverted when you pick it up), I use the cap to press the tip down to equalize the pressure inside the pen. After that, use it normally.
One last tip. Since I really like using flux pens, once it is empty, tap a small fitting onto the end then refill them and place a cap onto the fitting. They can be filled many times over.
Great tips Roy!
Indeed, Roy. I travel and do some "spot repairs" in Flagstaff at about 6900 feet above sea level, and when I leave Phoenix I am at 1132 feet altitude, so I have dumped most of a flux pen out in one attempted application. Some of them ooze out in the tool case, and make a big sticky mess. I hope to be relocating, and working between two locations, between 4500 and 6700 feet altitudes, with some excursions to 12,000 feet, and those pens have to stay tip up. Those yellow junk yard paint marking pens will do the same thing. I use those to document various stuff inside PLCs, mining and other equipment. Mostly mining and construction equipment, where any paper docs would get lost before I make it off the property at the end of the day.
Seth B Yes, I can see altitude making a big difference in the pens internal pressure.
its caused due to you squeezing the sides pushing it out as you try and grip it with enough force to push it down
its that simple you way over thought that 1 lol
Another great tech tip Tuesday Paul. Very informative. Big thumbs up.
+The Radio Shop
Thanks for kind words!
You are so right about that tip cleaner. Had mine now for about 6 months and I still can't quite believe how clean the tip of my iron is now. I did not know about the wet sponge problem, I wish I had before but certainly useful to know even though I've not used a sponge since I bought the tip cleaner.
A few millennia ago, I graduated from a course given by the RCA Institutes and did a little repair work as a side interest. I have already learned more from watching a few of your videos than I did from the entire RCA course.
Thanks for extra tip on hot glue removal I was having a hard time with those glue. Now I know how.
Thank you so much for the tips! Sometimes I have to repair car modules, and working on ceramic substrate boards really requires you to have good state of mind before working on them haha. Now I feel more prepared for the next one to come.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Mr.Carlson for all the very useful and informative videos. Just what I needed as I bought my first analog soldering station and I'm learning my soldering chops.
You are very welcome Goran!
You’re 100% correct about the pens being expensive and gushing out if you’re not careful, but they are sooooo convenient, esp when working in the field. It’s really easy to refill the pens with the needle applicator bottle, just invert with the felt removed and use something to depress the ball valve and squirt the rosin in, letting gravity do the rest.
I’ve had a hard time finding any info on strengths of different hot glues; would be interesting to hear your experience. I finally ran out of my giant box of circa-1980 “Craftsman” hot glue and haven’t found anything it’s equal yet.
Just found your channel while researching info for a restoration I am embarking on of a pair of EL34-based Heathkit AA-10 35W monos that my late grandfather built back in the day. Loving the content. Thanks !
Wow, learned more in this video than 20 others all on same subject. Liked and subscribed. Thanks
You can buy the small diameter solder for most applications. If you need bigger solder wire, pull out 3 feet of the small stuff. fold it in half or thirds, then twist it into a single strand of larger size.
Many thanks I love the pace and detail in all your videos, a great place to learn. You are a great teacher.
I took your advice and bought some 10 AWG solid copper wire for my Weller Industrial Soldering Gun. Wow was I impressed! The copper went to five hundred degrees Celsius in no time and it cooled just as quickly. It's a good idea and thanks for sharing your advice.
I have a roll of the organic solder I've used it a few times but wasn't aware that it would remove the tin. Lots of good info there look forward to the next restore video have a great day.
+wade hicks
Thanks Wade!
Many thanks, this is a really great video for a beginner like me. One question, I see that you can get solder from the same range, but with core sizes varying from 1.8 to 3%. Is there a specific preference or reason for wanting a higher or lower percentage?
All the information in one place. Nothing that would be unnecessary. Correct pronunciation of “solder”. What more could anyone want? Superb.
Mr. Carlson, I want to thank you for sharing the depth of your knowledge with me. It excites me greatly to increase my knowledge of everything related to my profession and continue to add new skills to my resume. As your follower, I no longer question the L, I just pronounce it!
Thanks and 73's,
Anthony Reo
+Anthony Reo
Great to read Anthony! That's what this channel is about, sharing knowledge. Glad your enjoying the content.
Great video!!
63/37 at 0.032" from Kester is my everyday solder, it works beautifully for most things. For surface mount I've mostly moved to using solder paste. And if the .032 is too thin for heavy joints, you can just twist two strands of it together to feed it faster and keep dwell times short.
Thanks Antonio!
hi i thought everyday solder mostly is surface mount type like in phone or laptop pcb? for laptop and phone should use the kester one ya, may i know what are some items that are heavy jointed?
@@osirusj275 Connectors and large capacitors and inductors are the things that commonly remain as through-hole components. It’s been 5 years since I posted my comment, and in that time I’ve become much more comfortable with smaller parts, so I do more SMD with solder paste or thinner solder. Still, 0.5mm and 0.7-0.8mm are my most common sizes of solder wire.
Mr. Carlson, I pronounce solder the way Webster’s dictionary indicates it should be pronounced. My point of pronunciation was just an opinion. Another opinion I have is that your knowledge of electronics is awesome; I have been soldering since 1951 and thought thatI knew the subject fairly well but I learned several things watching your video.. My profession before retiring was Theoretical Physics; Electronics is just a hobby of mine. I felt I have a fairly well equipped electronics workbench until I see yours. Yours is better equipped than those of several large companies I have worked for. I enjoy your videos VERY much. I’m sorry if I offended you, I was only pointing out that your pronunciation of solder goes against the popular American usage. My eight years of college was just the beginning of my education; I will continue to learn new things as long as I live. I have many interests, Electronics is just one. My main interests are Physics, Flying (I am an Instrument rated Commercial Pilot), Guitar, Computers, and Mathematics. I look forward to learning as much as I can from your excellent videos.
No offence taken Paul :^) I'm glad you're enjoying the video's.
As a Briton, "sod" doesn't just refer to peat; it's short for "sodomite". You will appreciate how awkward "Sodder" sounds to the wider English speaking world. The French variant "souder" or "soudur" would be pronounced like the name Soderberg. That would be absolutely fine. But sodder? That sounds like the serf who has to dildo a heifer to collect sêmen.
@@bashisobsolete.pythonismyn6321 Gonna be at it a long time to get semen from a heifer.
"It's pretty intoxicating, that stuff."
"Yeah, dude, tell me more!"
I had to go mostly lead free and I only use Kester k100ld .8 mm. I believe it is the best lead free available for a reasonable price and It flows nice and is very clean and I`m happy with it. But I still sneak in some leaded solder on critical joints. I also love the Cardas quad eutectic solder for audio connections and power connections. Thank you Mr Carlson love your videos.
Another choice for small squeeze bottles are available from Pro's Kit. They sell a Flux bottle 2 pack part # MS-035.
Do not try old medical syringes. The chemicals in the flux slowly dissolve the rubber part of the plunger resulting in a sticky black goo that clogs up the needle.
Aaagh, I need millimeter dimensions too! :-) Great video! NOTE: 0.020" = 0.5mm and 0.032" = 0.8mm
Thanks for the conversion!
Thank you!!!
you're the man
As the years go by it is easy to think we know it all, my 65years has yet again taught me that I DONT know it all. Excellent information and plenty for me to experiement with. Top man.
It's the 20% 80% problem, you can get 80% of the results with only knowing 20% of the information.
Exactly what I needed to know! Thanks, Mr. Carlson!
Interesting about the hot glue. I wonder if hairspray would work the same? You can use it to remove rubber handgrips from handlebars - it works like magic.
I pronounce the "L" ONLY and leave the remaining "SO-DER" silent.
Hilarious. Funny. Yeah, you and me both.
I don't get it
I get it
Yeah! It''s "SODDER" aaauuugghhh!!!!
He's a different level of hipster. in our world.
Just picked up a soldering station after countless frustrated attempts with those plug-and-play irons that come with hobby kits. Trying to get my head around the relationship(s) between solder, flux, oxidisation, etc. My understanding is that it's really a matter of feel that comes with practise, but it's great to have a general idea of what's going on both thermally and chemically. (It almost goes without saying that the hardest part about learning to "solder" is dealing with pedants' insistence on the pronunciation of the word. 😉)
Just wanted to say a big thanks for all the knowledge you share! I've been watching your restoration videos and marvelling at the depth and detail of your knowledge, not to mention your infinite patience. Also, the solder I grabbed out of a bucket of different kinds (just to get started somewhere with this station) is a 60/40 .032" RA flux core - so, coincidentally, I've got a little more confidence, thanks to your recommendation!
Many years ago I worked as an electronics tech at a factory that was building equipment for the military. We were working 24/7, and the soldering irons were never shut off. I noticed that the soldering irons seemed cheap, but the tips were high-quality Hexacon. They replaced a tip every now and then but not often, which I thought was impressive considering the 24/7 operation. So, I bought aa few Hexacon tips for my own use.
I've had a Hakko station for about 10 years, and I love it. If you're looking to really get into soldering, a Hakko is a good investment... :)
Metcal is better.
No, Unger is better.
Use 63/37 solder (eutectic) rather than 60/40 (non-eutectic). Here’s why (Wiki excerpt):
“…some alloys are eutectic - that is, the alloy's melting point is the lowest possible for a mixture of those components, and coincides with the freezing point. Non-eutectic alloys can have markedly different solidus and liquidus temperatures, as they have distinct liquid and solid transitions. Non-eutectic mixtures often exist as a paste of solid particles in a melted matrix of the lower-melting phase as they approach high enough temperatures. In electrical work, if the joint is disturbed while in this "pasty" state before it fully solidifies, a poor electrical connection may result; use of eutectic solder reduces this problem.”
That is so great to know. I've reheated lots of solder joints that ended up with that grainy crystallized appearance. I was taught that was a "cold" solder joint.
Wow, so much good information! Thanks for your work on these Tech Tip Tuesday's.
+Tech Chuck Legg
Thanks Chuck! Glad your enjoying TT Tuesdays!
Very enlightening presentation, especially when dealing with a variety of repairs that work best under the right conditions. I tend to use the 60/40 type solder that seems to work well for most applications.
+John Cunningham
I prefer 60/40 as well John. 63/37 isn't to bad to work with either.
Thank you for pronouncing the "L" in solder, I thought I was the only one. Great lesson, thank you.
Just shut your pie hole your annoying sir!
Great knowledge...but camera is so zoomed out, it’s difficult to see. I suggest a list in your video description.
Thanks for self-sponsoring another informative PSA for the electronic hoi polloi like me. As always, it's learning made easy and entertaining-undoubtedly the result of a lot of knowledge, experience, careful planning, and peerless production values on your part, not to slight esthetics and integrity.
Would appreciate knowing your views on the toxicity of soldering fumes, and cost-benefit considerations of the options to deal with them.
Be well!
Aloha from Capt. Glenn in Hawaii….I love your “ever-green “ videos! They are treasury in a compulsive product test culture of rapid fire quickly ,rushed videos. They stand the test of time.
Great information!, I just can't get used to saying solder pronouncing the "L"...LOL
I have a 5 pound roll of thick 50/50 rosin core solder and it works great, I used to do antique radio & TV as a hobby and also used 60/40 solder.
What do you think of the 50/50 solder for point to point and simple PC work?
Thanks for your videos, I enjoy watching even though I no longer do this work because of poor eyesight and no shop.
+old64goat
Hi, I think I would stick to 60/40, but I bet those solder joints look like chrome when you use that 50/50. Thanks for your comment!
The 50/50 stuff is amazing to work with. Can't really find it anymore.
@@rich1051414 plumbers solder is 50-50 but newer stuff is lead free, and plus that plumber stuff is too thick for most work.
@@peshmadscientist1833 You don't want to use 'plumbers solder' as it isn't rosin flux cored. If you get the solid wire stuff, the lack of rosin core defeats the purpose of using it, making soldering easier. Even if it is flux cored, it's plumbers solder, so it's too aggressive for electronics work. It will corrode the traces.
@@rich1051414 thanks. Good point, that plumbers flux is super-aggressive. Ive never seen flux cored plumbers solder, but the solid stuff is probably the only way to get some 50/50 . Use your own favourite flux.
hello sir, do you own a space station?
Possibly :^)
Stanley zorrilla -a lot of the same oscilloscopes does he collects them? 😂😂😂😂
I have a space hopper.
...And I go to the station every morning (except weekends).
Thats where he does all of his videos! Lol!!
Your tip about that Brillo pad type cleaner for the iron tip: Brilliant. THank you for that. I also really found this entire video handy. I recently got into building tube amps point to point. Hugely helpful.
+redfishbum
Thanks for your kind comment! You may enjoy this video too : czcams.com/video/N75D9293Eb8/video.html
+Mr Carlson's Lab Very informative video. I really liked your video on the capacitors being in the right way. I'm rebuilding and amp that I build due to some hiss and crackle at high volume that I could never resolve. I bought a low buck oscilloscope off of eBay and I'll use that to make sure the caps are properly shielded. With regard to my amp, I might have had a grounding issue which I have a plan to resolve. Do you happen to have a grounding or star grounding backgrounder/explanation video?
Thanks! Bart
Hello Paul, thank you for taking the time to make this awesome video, very much appreciated. looking forward to your new restoration video. thanks again.
+jeff b
Thanks for the kind words Jeff! The resto video has some pretty in-depth troubleshooting, so it should be interesting.
will be interesting for sure, your wealth of knowledge is second to none. is there a test for such a thing!!!, thank you for shedding some much needed light on solder, that is with an L ! . I call it solder not sodder. a guy that taught me a lot about electricity a long time ago burned that into my brain. he was the electrical engineer for van halen a long time ago. need to go do some more snow blowing, were getting it pretty good, here in new york. thank you Paul.
Have fun in the snow! It's dry on the other side of the globe :^)
must be nice!! I like the snow, was in a bad snow machine accident a few years ago, broke my back in 3 places my neck in two places, all my ribs accept one. severe concussion, many other things too many to mention. no more snowmobiles for me. still ride my motorcycles and bicycles though. I am lucky to be alive!!. just got done walking around with the snow blower, that is a good workout!!. best wishes to you my friend, stay dry and warm.
Thanks Jeff!
A most helpful post! Two questions.
1) Have you ever tried Naphtha as a solvent-based cleaner? We used it in the Air Force for field maintenance and it cleans extremely well for both PCB prep and residue cleaning.
2) I'm wondering if you could address desoldering these "hard-to-work-with" eutectic alloy solder-dipped PCBs that are now used on nearly all PCBs in electronics manufacturing. I've been unable to find much internet info on the safe melting point to avoid PCB damage. It seems this new eutectic dipping alloy is preferred in production as it solidifies rapidly. It's down side is once hardened it's nearly irreversible. Even with a quality station I find this solder a pain to break loose even after thorough prepping and using the old solder heat-bridging technique. I'd like to see how you deal with such stubborn solder connections using this fickle eutectic solder.
The Air Force allowed many chemicals to be used over the years with many of them causing harm in the long term. Naptha isn't particularly human friendly.
Love your videos ... but ... take this as a constructive hint :) ... can you please mention measurements in the International System :)
0.032'' is 0.8mm ... I had to look that up :)
Those on the other side of the pond and worldwide seeing your videos will be please :)
This would be the first video I have seen and I learned a lot of new and very informative details and varieties of leads and fluxes and etc.....thank you sir and God speed!More power to you!
Thank you!
Thanks for the tips, Paul. I look forward to another one of your 2-hour restoration videos.
+Eric Wasatonic
Thanks Eric! Looking forward to a new video from you too. Those old blinking Christmas lights on that transformer was really cool (kinda artsy) Just watched the HP documentary as well, What a great story....
"I do pronounce the 'l' in solder." Trigger warning for Americans. (And boy does that trigger them. Check the comments under literally any non-American electronics video. Not real aware of their relative position in the world, that lot.)
Fabulous job as always, Mr. C.
10 points for saying solder, so nice on the ears. I get a pain in my soul when i hear of soder-me on youtube
@Ryan o Or Soldier......Colder.......Holder
That English language eh?
Thank you so much. Always wanted to know more about the different solder available. Cheers.
Your welcome!
Very good. U hit me right on the head. If I didn't watch ur vdo, I will make alot of mistakes when choosing the soldering flux wire. Thanks so much my friend.
Pace worldwide actually made tutorials for soldering and board repair in the 70's, they uploaded the videos to their channel.. first video you can find on youtube is called "Basic soldering Lesson 1 : Solder and Flux", the lessons goes on to the different soldering techniques for different soldering terminals, and then goes on to board repair, even multi-layer board repair... very interesting stuff.
+Damonack
Thanks for your comment!
+Damonack Lol, I just saw that video yesterday for the 3rd or 4th time, really great videos they made back in the day.
I haven't heard you talked about (have I missed it?) the Lead Free (100% tin) solder which in my opinion in horrible and people should be warned when dealing with this type and perhaps stay away.
These videos are phenomenal. Thank you!
Been soldering for a couple years but really wanted to know what exactly I should be using to get the best results that's the easiest and least time consuming. Ive been using walmart rosin core solder(it's cheap an locally avaliable, frys is a bit of a drive) with liquid rosin when I need a little faster melting and adhesion. You answered my question immediatly. I already had 63 37 no clean .032 in my shopping cart but wanted to make sure it was the best choice for guitar pedals/ through hole pcb, guitar electronics and tube amp pcb's(and possibly I'll get into SMD pedals in the near future, but if I can avoid using a solder paste and just use what I use for everything else that would be great). You answered my questions right off the bat. GREAT video! Ive had no issues with lead free solder but having to use even more flux externally before flowing a joint(when I'm grounding to the back of a pot for example) is messy and time consuming so I wanted to give leaded solder a go. From what I understand if I can get lead free to work for me then leaded will just make things that much easier. Now this could be incorrect but it's possible I heard somewhere that no clean leaded solder can be messier than other solders. This goes against what I would assume but is there any truth to that? Once again excellent video, thanks!
Edit: Yes! I recently bought a solder tip cleaner(brass shaving style) cause I was going through tips too quickly with a sponge but your statement confirmed it was infact the use of a sponge. I was able to bring 75% of my tips back to life with the tip cleaner(brass shavings) and tip tinner. Ive also made a rosin dispenser out of a small plastic bottle and a needle tip, works GREAT! Wish I saw your video years ago!
And yes I pronounce the "L" in solder. A breath of sanity 😍
no 'sodder' for you sir? :P
@@djrdx2124 😂 I got a better one......"Sod...der Off" 😎😆
Nice video but I'm completely confused by the numbers your using. Iv no doubt they are the correct terms but what are they in mm?
…just multiply mentioned numbers with 25.4 to get mm… :)
.032 inches
Great tutorial video, very informative - Thanks!
Excellent tips! Thanks for taking the time to make these great videos.
You're Welcome!
+1 for soLder ;)
+Image-Line
LOL, Thanks!
+Image-Line
-1 from me; it appears that we have reached a stalemate.
Thanks for your time and effort, Mr. Carlson.
+EdWatts
LOL!
Amen. People from the Northern half of the US seem to love to refer to solder as sodder.
Very weird to see digital audio application developer in a random soldering video 😂
Hmm ... alcohol ! Good point, will have to remember that one. All points considered though, perhaps some brandy would have yet a better appeal, say like in my shop past the midnight hours when wifey is in bed fast asleep; mua hah ha ha haahhhh ! Thanks for the "Hot tip" Mr Paul !
This answered several questions for me. Thanks
That's some very good information regarding solder and a handy tip on the hot glue removal. Thanks for sharing!
+ for pronouncing Solering correctly
- for using mystical measurement units.
You get no points for misspelling "soldering" as solering. Stfu.
I dunno, it can be a little tricky to get ones head round, but if you remember 1mm is roughly .040" then it becomes easier to work from that. (or looking another way, .010" is about 0.25mm)
Lol, I was using calculator during whole video to convert diameters from mystical measurement units to normal measurement units :)
I'm guessing you guys are talking about barbarian units? There's nothing mythical about them, they're just ancient and decrepit.
Very good as usual.I had a laugh though, yes its S O L D E R.I was in Portland Origon on a factory training course, it was all Kiwis and Ausys.After about 15 minutes on the first day of the course, I suddenly realised what SODER was and without thinking said out loud "OOOH SOLDER!" the Yanky instructer stoped and looked at me and all the other students in unison said "OH shit SOLDER!!"No body had any idea what the Yank was talking about for the first 15 minutes.
Russell Newberry hahaha good anecdot.
Russell Newberry lol
Origon?
It's Oregon... Pronunciation can be excused as regional. Poor spelling cannot.
Nicely done tutorial. Now I can make my purchases with assurance.
Thats just what ive been looking for...just setting up my workshop and was confused what to choose this really helps thankyou
+charlieoscar09
Glad you enjoyed the video! Your welcome.
At work we use Kester 60/38 with 2% silver. I detest lead-free solder!
I have to admit, Lead free is crap. Just the truth... it really is horrible stuff.
Mr Carlson's Lab: the worst case scenario is having to replace components on a double sided board that was manufactured with lead-free solder. I usually find that I have to apply fresh tin/ lead solder, suck that off with the solder sucker, apply more fresh tin/ lead solder, and repeat several times before we can get the component off the board, especially if it has multiple pins or if the pins fit extremely snuggly through the plated holes in the board, as so many modern circuit boards and components are being manufactured these days.....it does help to increase the temperature of the solder sucker a little bit because of the lead free solder, but then you are even more likely to damage the thin traces and pads on the board from the extra heat. Sometimes we use that chip-quick low temperature solder stuff, but it's expensive.
From the moment I discovered this channel I began pronouncing the L in solder. If Mr. Carlson does it, it must be the right way. I don't care about people thinking I'm saying it wrong, because technically I think the L should be pronounced although both are acceptable.
Definitely agree. Hakko is one of the best I've ever used for home hobbyist work.
+Aron Gooch
Thanks for your comment Aron!
Always informative...
You are an engineer of electronics.!!!❤
I always pronouced it "sodder"
Edit: Welp, my question was answered.
+waterlubber
That's whats important :^)
@@MrCarlsonsLab You eat Salmon, you use Solder, not difficult at all.
Just as an aside, the viewers on here who are American, the correct pronunciation is sawder or solder without the L. The Merriam Webster dictionary is pretty much the defacto source when it comes to the correct pronunciation of American English. Check their website if you don't believe me.
I am an Englishman and as much as it pains me to hear and see my language getting butchered I am sharply reminded by my conscience of the fact that English is a mish-mash of several languages. Not only that, it is an ever-evolving and ever-changing language. So then, is it not fair that those who have taken this language to other parts of the globe adapt it to their own use? Keep on sawdering friends!
I'm going to get the Hakko FX888D soldering station and the .020 wire for through hole work. Between your great insight and the tools this will be easy as a Sunday morning.
Thank you for posting this video. It's just what I was looking for. Very helpful and informative.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I cringe when I hear "soder," it's damn pleasant to hear it pronounced correctly :-)
+Phillip Bate
LOL, Glad you enjoyed the video Phillip!
sol·der | \ ˈsä-dər
Technically, if you pronounce the "L" and live in North America you are pronouncing the word incorrectly. The British pronounce the "L" as a result to change the dictate as to not represent "sodder" or someone who in slang thinks sodomy. The addendum came to be sometime in the 1920's.
I was expecting more about "lead free" eco-friendly solders,....and the four letter words it usually evokes from those who are forced to use it.
+brickley2000
Not a fan of the stuff myself. I wonder when they are going to claim Tin is unfriendly? Probably the next political kick, when someone wants their name in a book.
Mr Carlson's Lab
I cringe every time I think about how many tons of electronics get needlessly thrown out to landfills every day because of the prematurely failed solder joints that now occur when the manufacturers are forced to use the lead free solder during construction.
But thank goodness they are making the lead free stuff more and more mandatory.
And the countless babies and toddlers that are being saved from brain damage when they tear open the cases of electronics, and chew on the circuit boards.
+brickley2000
LOL!
+brickley2000 Loading up landfills with dead electronics is "for the children!"
One of the jobs I had to do working with ultra high-reliability equipment, was to de-solder all the components on DIMMs to remove the rhos-compliant tin stuff and re-solder them using a tin/lead/silver solder. This was to reduce the possibility of whiskering. 1 and 1/2 hours per DIMM, both sides, horrible job!
I used to use Hakko all the time but I have just moved over too a JBC , and its fantastic and the tips way out last the Hakko and i also use the abrasive tip cleaner .
I can certainly recommend Hakko soldering stations. I bought a refurbished 928, and I added a mains switch in the back. Otherwise, the transformer keeps humming and wasting electricity. Having two irons is so handy. You can get all kinds of tips.
I need to order my solder from Canada, evidently, 'cause all I can find in the states is "sodder."
+jrdubois112277
Without the "L", your clearly getting ripped off.
+Mr Carlson's Lab "lol" or, in American, "o".
Solder... saw•dur
I just can't pronounce it like it's spelled. I've never heard anyone else pronounce it properly in real life. I'm in a profession where soldering is common.
The L is silent, not meant to be pronounced. At least he's aware that he does it.
@@DontEverGrowUp In America maybe. The rest of the world has always pronounced the L.
There is a brand of guitar amplifier called 'Soldano'. It's not pronounced 'Suadanno'. Try it. It's easy.
@@DontEverGrowUp SHUT THE F@CK UP. In america (notice the lower case as I have no respect for a country that lets citizons die of Corona when they can't afford basic care) may be... But america makes its own damn rules lol. EVERYWHERE ELSE PRONOUNCES THE L!
DO you say GOD for GOLD? SOD for SOLD?? For christs sake. IT IS - wait for it - SOL DER or if it is easier for you, SOL DUH
Oh I love using learnt too. I know americans think learnt is what stupid folk use, but Learned IMO is and should be used to suggest learn-ed, as in educated. Try it some time.
@@ollyk22 Wow, such disrespect for a difference of opinion. Pronounce the word however you like and let others do the same. English is a mutt of a language so arguing over letter combinations being pronounced differently in different words is just going to drive you mad.
Mr Carlson - thanks for the video. Electronics / ham radio has been my hobby for years and I had no idea of the changes. My biggest change was in 1996 when I bought a weller tcp soldering station (lol). Thanks again
+Newmachinist
Glad your enjoying the video's. Your welcome!
Great video Paul, Myself prefer 63/37 and when you clean it up it shines like chrome. When I took NASA soldering course, the instructors had a hard time inspecting the joints because of the shine. Keep em comming, Greg
+Gregory West
Great story Greg! Thanks for the kind words!
Thumbs up for not pronouncing it "sodder"
You bet, "power to the "L" :^) LOL!
now if we could get you to pronounce chassis with a sh sound not a ch sound and use proper measurement instead of imperial :-)
Ch is correct pronunciation!
Or you could embrace something different for once instead of trying to get people to change.
to change or to shange?
Since when has the L been silent in solder?. Leave the world as it is please!!
As always, an informative and well presented video. Keep up the great work.
+David Legault
Thanks David!
These rolls look exactly like my collection. I got mine at Sayal. I have a huge roll of .032, had it for years.
Sold Her
LOL
I'm an American. We don't pronuce L's, we drink beer from any country, drive cars with 500 horsepower to go get groceries loaded with fat, half of us love Trump, half of us hate Trump, we believe all Canadians are polite even though a lot are rude asf, and our government tells us that lead free solder is best but they refuse to use it any of their own military equipment.
Lord Sebastian - ummm, no. LOL Most in the US (including this citizen) pronounces most Ls though not in solder. Most in the USA don't drive anything with 500 HP, recognizes that less than 42% approves of Trump and only about 18% 'love' him, and we also recognize that our government doesn't tell us what 'sodder' to use when we repair our equipment, but it does recognize the physical reality that since most Americans don't properly dispose of electronic waste that not dumping a known neurotoxin into the ground water benefits all. Happy New Year
@@RechargeableLithium Sorry butt Lord Sebastion is right, a helluva lot of us Americans agree with Mr Trump and we don't need to be told what kind of solder to use on our Electronics. this so called lead free solder that was jammed down our throats was nothing but B.S.. now we have electronics that fail prematurely because of it. Sorry but you are wrong.
Thanks for sharing your experience
Thanks Mr Carlson for another awesome video, keep 'em coming.
+Ivan Doe
Thanks for the kind words Ivan!
At last, an American who doesn't say SAHDDER...!! Yay!!
Canadian, the accent is strong.
+TekkGnostic …true dat :) you can tell when Canadiens are talking "…about a boat…" ;)
Now if only he could also use the metric system that most of the world uses instead of that stupid imperial system. Do you really expect me to pause the video with every number he mentions and convert inches to millimeters?
Ni5ei
Best to be proficient at both.
Imperial is still highly useful for practical work such as carpentry where you're mostly working with ratios.
12 has many more convenient divisors/factors (/2, /3, /4, /6) making the math quick and intuitive for working on your feet.
With a base of 10 you'd be dealing with a lot of decimal places working with ratios which can't be represented reasonably on a measuring tape (in base10.)
eg: Say you want 1/3 of a metre, 33.3333etc. Unless you have a measuring tape with 10ths/100ths of a mm marking, you'll never get a consistent or even accurate measurement.
Want a 1/3 of a foot, easy... 4 inches. A 1/4...3 inches, 1/2...6, etc.
+TekkGnostic For work like that, give or take a mm doesn't matter since the unit is already very small.
A third of a meter is 333mm (forget that 0.333mm, it's negligable). Having an inch as your smallest unit is much more difficult to work with. Everything less than an inch becomes 1/16, 1/8 etc. Or, you can use decimals which makes you work metric again which is not printed on an imperial ruler.
you pronounced solder wrong
Nope, you did.
How do you pronounce soldier?
Ah jus sod sum sodder to a soddier. Nice. Easy on the ear, isn't it?
As usual, this is INCREDIBLY helpful. What tinning paste would be good to use for 60/40 RA solder when tinning a new tip?