I did this procedure and after watching you video I saw that the rubber heat protector goes under the throttle cables school boy error so back to it and install the rubber heat protector correctly great video BTW
My water pipe was a bitch to come out I replaced all 3 o rings I had to clean up the holes where the pipe goes in the head and greased them and did a coolant change I switched over to G12+ coolant so far so good 👍
The blockoff plate are by Driven Racing. You can find them here: www.motosport.com/driven-racing-engine-block-off-plates?mmy=yamaha;fjr1300a;2005&mmy_source=pdp&variant[DRR000D]=DRR000D-X001-Y022 The coils were by process of elimination. When I bought the bike, there was a vibration. As the first items to check coils/wires/plugs I changed the coils, I could not find a replacement cheap at the time, so I tried a forums suggestion of going to coil on plugs. That conversion introduced it's own vibration so I did not notice a difference when I changed them. It was not until I eliminated everything else that I came back to the coils/wires and changed them that the vibration fully dissipated. So in the end, the coils, wires, injectors, engine balance'rs and TB cleaning all contributed as age tends to wear these components. Here is a video that I explain what transpired ('Why I don't recommend the COP or "Coil On Plug" conversion'): czcams.com/video/Zsz3jPK0kn0/video.html No, the check engine light does not activate, nor does it generate any codes. Just put a rubber plug over the connector and your good to go. Hope this help's. Thanks, Mike
Bit of a design fail on the Driven 2/3 cylinder plate. Stamped 100502 in my example. The stock part seals against the two reed valves. That is, there are two separate recesses leading to the PAIR system hoses. sealing surface has a figure 8 shape. Driven plate has one large recess, so that it will not seal against either reed valve in the middle. This would allow air to leak past the plate, between the valves. It will be relying on a seal between the plate and the valve cover, instead of agains the reed valves. I'll add some RTV and use it anyway since I can't find an alternative.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 I ended up just capping the factory plates instead. Hopefully your Driven plates have a different design. Of course a small leak may not make a difference. Just something I noticed.
Thanks so much for your videos, Mike! My question is, can I remove the air tubing and cap off the openings, without having to install block off plates? Thanks again for all your helpful videos on these 1st gen FJRs!
Thanks for the videos,has really helped me out alot! how did you determine you had a bad coil ,or was it a bad wire ? and also whats the name of the block off plates and when u disconect the power plug deal it doesnt make a check engine light come on?
Great video Mike! Thanks for the help. One question: Did you remove the actual reed valves? Or keep them in place to act as a 'gasket' for the new block-off plates?
Hey Mike. I need a bit of advice. My FJR's windscreen does not go down when I out the ignition off. However twice after putting the ignition off and removing the key, only my neutral light stayed in for about 2-3 seconds then when it went off my windshield dropped too. Any idea where or what to check? I cannot find anything on the forums.
You need to buy a multimeter and find out how to use it.It will save you a lot if heartache,time and money.It's a simple device,easy to use and will sort out 12v systems very quickly. Your problem sounds like either a switch or dirty terminals.
Hi Mike you dtill got your Gen 1 fjr? I just purchased a 2003 and i love it, however i feel it might be suffering with vibration as did yours. As the motor builds up to around 5-6k rpm it seems alittle loud and vibration begins. Its not really bad but i know yamaha would not have made it like that. What process of elimination did you use. Did you find one repair fixed the problem or a combination of things. Thanks Mike Hope you still active on youtube as i will subscribe if you are.
Hello, Yes I do have the bike. Do you want the long or short story? It was and still is a process of elimination, not just one thing at least for me. Everything I did helped. I'd start at plugs and coils/wires. This is what can deteriorate over time and could be changed as part of a tune up. Also, check that the plug boots and resistors are clean and tight. That made the biggest difference for me. Clean or spray out the throttle body with a MAP safe cleaner. Check that electrical connections in the engine bay are tight and clean as well as the primary wires to the coils. Check that the engine mounting bolts are torqued. You be surprised how much vibration can be transmitted through a loose bolt. Check that the TB Sync at idle is correct. Run the engine at 4-6k and also check the TB sync there as well. If the vacuum goes out of sync at higher RPM's then this could indicate a problem with breathing and could be contributing to vibration. In this case, check that the TB boots are tight and have no leak's. Make sure the TB plate adjustments have not been touched. If so, a unofficial TBS may be needed (Google it). This will change the plate settings from factory and is only done if we know the plates have been touched. Make sure there are no dent's in any of the headers. There are also more in-depth things to check if the sync is off at higher RPM's like compression, valves, etc. Also, in the forums, I heard that Yamaha keeps these bikes lean to meet emissions. The Power Commander III USB is suggested to smooth out the engine. I happened to get a Dobeck EJK Fuel Controller really cheap on Ebay. So I've been experimenting with it and found that if I richen the idle to 4-5k range the bike got smoother. I'm looking to get a fuel/ratio meter to help with setting the controller. Unfortunately the GEN 1's cant use the Power Commander V with Autotune. I know it was a long reply but I hope it helps.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Thats all a big help Mike, i will go through these one at a time and hopefully hit on the culprit. As i explained its not really bad, and the bike still pulls like a train, but its just not right at thise higher rpm's. Relly appreciate you taking the time out to try and help. Your a top guy. If i solve the problem i will drop you a message.
One thing I just found out today that I completely overlooked. Is... Make sure you have an OEM or K&N filter installed. I had a hiflo filter since I got the bike and I just change to a K&N filter. I did not realize how much the aftermarket filter was limiting the airflow. My vibration got a lot better. It did not eliminate it, but there was at least for me a substantial improvement vibration and power. Of course I have a fuel controller that's richening up the fuel so that may influence the power, but with nothing but switching filters I've seen a change. Just thought I let you know something I stumbled on. Mike
Hello, yes it completely removes air injection into the exhaust by eliminating the pipes and valve. A rubber cap is placed over the connection to the airbox. Hope this helps.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 howdy. Thanks a mil it sure does! Im from Cape Town South Africa and hoping to buy an FJR, God willing the one I gave my eye on. Will know later this week. If yiu have Facebook feel free to add me. Now aim going to look for a video explaining for to change spark plugs as that seems a mission
Hi Mike In my FJR I have many kms (257 thousand), basically I do everything! But there is one thing I never did ... was to "wash" the engine. Your FJR has an immaculate engine. Now the question! How to clean / wash your engine. Thank you
Hello mike thanks agian for the vids, i disconnected the pair system at the tee, i just added a piece of 3/8 copper to join the hoses ,i did notice it is quieter ,i left the valve and kept it plugged in. Idk if i gained any performance ? Ive got a surge that from what ive been reading is fixable with a power commander,it sucks that ive got to put 300.00 on it ,i think yamaha outta to have addressed that problem but anyhow what can u do?thanks agian for vids ,keep em comin
Glad adding the pipe worked out for you. I don't think I gained any power either. But I think making the engine quieter helps with the perception of the engine running better. When I put the foam grip's on the bike, the larger circumference of the grip helped control the surge. I think that in order to comply with emissions, they had to thin out the mixture at idle. That's why the PC help's. BTW, I don't have a power commander either. if I ever change the header's, then I'll have to get it along with a tune.
How many miles are on the bike? I bought a used 2013 that has 12,000 miles (very well kept bike), and I'm curious at about what mileage should I be thinking about doing this?
Hello, I added the plates after I did the valve check. At about 70,000 miles, the passage ways were clogged and the reeds needed to be replaced. So I decided on just eliminating the system and put in the block off plates instead of replacing them. It's for emissions. I'd leave them alone until they stop working. I have about 96,000 miles on the bike and it runs better than it ever did when I got it. The top end sounds smooth. On the 05, I did change the cam chain tensioner. It was making noise and they did revise the component. I think that was just the gen 1 and early gen 2's. I need to do a valve check and I'll probably change the cam chain due to miles. I've heard of bikes going over 200,000 miles. Mine is almost 100,000 and it seems like it could go another 100,000. I can't say enough about motul. I'm using the 7100, full synthetic. The engine is quiet and shifts well . Thanks, mike
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Thanks for the great info, Mike. Curious....have your valves needed adjustment? I don't have a shop manual and haven't checked into it. Coming from the dirt world, valves are kind of a big deal to the smaller thumpers. I check mine every 40 hours, and they usually need adjustment before 100 hours of operation. Is the 1300 a shim and bucket system? I bought Motul 7100 for my next oil change. Just changed it using the Yamalube oil at 13,000. I'll change again at 15,000. I am curious if the aftermarket seats are any better. Many talk of lower back soreness, but my problem is more around the hip/groin area. Reviews on aftermarket seats are very subjective, so I'm trying to get as much info as possible before dumping $800+ on something that might not make a difference.
I did the valve check at about 60,000. Some of the valves were in range and I had a few that needed adjustment. Yes, it's a bucket and shims system. If you do not have the manual, I have it available at: drive.google.com/file/d/1PUQTPxlLgFJ_7CbOQjzqb8OKrJIm268E/view?usp=drivesdk I've never driven the Gen3, so I can't comment on the seat as the gen 1 seat is different. Yamaha does have a comfort seat for the gen3. Not sure what the difference would be. I have not tried any aftermarket seats. My seat is starting to show wear and its age. So, I'll probably need to invest in a seat in the future. Most likely, Top Sellerie in France. If you order on their website, you can customize the materials, seat height and if it has gel or heat. I have driven from Jersey to Tennessee in one day. I found that at about 2 hours, I start to get pain the hips as well. I figured I usually have to take a pitstop and stretch about the same time, so I figure in 15-minute breaks in the trip, then I'm good to go for another 2 hours.
Excellent, as always. Thank you
Thanks for the info. I just ordered this item. Great video. You sound like a Yamaha tech.
I did this procedure and after watching you video I saw that the rubber heat protector goes under the throttle cables school boy error so back to it and install the rubber heat protector correctly great video BTW
Glad it helped
My water pipe was a bitch to come out I replaced all 3 o rings I had to clean up the holes where the pipe goes in the head and greased them and did a coolant change I switched over to G12+ coolant so far so good 👍
I think the first time I pulled it apart it was stuck. The same thing, it had corrosion. The way it's designed I think it weeps a little.
The blockoff plate are by Driven Racing. You can find them here: www.motosport.com/driven-racing-engine-block-off-plates?mmy=yamaha;fjr1300a;2005&mmy_source=pdp&variant[DRR000D]=DRR000D-X001-Y022
The coils were by process of elimination. When I bought the bike, there was a vibration. As the first items to check coils/wires/plugs I changed the coils, I could not find a replacement cheap at the time, so I tried a forums suggestion of going to coil on plugs. That conversion introduced it's own vibration so I did not notice a difference when I changed them. It was not until I eliminated everything else that I came back to the coils/wires and changed them that the vibration fully dissipated. So in the end, the coils, wires, injectors, engine balance'rs and TB cleaning all contributed as age tends to wear these components. Here is a video that I explain what transpired ('Why I don't recommend the COP or "Coil On Plug" conversion'): czcams.com/video/Zsz3jPK0kn0/video.html
No, the check engine light does not activate, nor does it generate any codes. Just put a rubber plug over the connector and your good to go.
Hope this help's. Thanks, Mike
Part # DSBLOCK-23, Also available here: www.denniskirk.com/driven-racing/engine-block-off-plate-dsblock-23.p1401725.prd/1401725.sku
Bit of a design fail on the Driven 2/3 cylinder plate. Stamped 100502 in my example. The stock part seals against the two reed valves. That is, there are two separate recesses leading to the PAIR system hoses. sealing surface has a figure 8 shape. Driven plate has one large recess, so that it will not seal against either reed valve in the middle. This would allow air to leak past the plate, between the valves. It will be relying on a seal between the plate and the valve cover, instead of agains the reed valves. I'll add some RTV and use it anyway since I can't find an alternative.
Thanks, I had not noticed that! I'll look at the plate when I do the next valve service.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 I ended up just capping the factory plates instead. Hopefully your Driven plates have a different design. Of course a small leak may not make a difference. Just something I noticed.
Thanks so much for your videos, Mike! My question is, can I remove the air tubing and cap off the openings, without having to install block off plates? Thanks again for all your helpful videos on these 1st gen FJRs!
Yes, just make sure the reeds are not leaking exhaust into the tubes. This could heat up the caps.
Thanks for the videos,has really helped me out alot! how did you determine you had a bad coil ,or was it a bad wire ? and also whats the name of the block off plates and when u disconect the power plug deal it doesnt make a check engine light come on?
i got the name of plates (Driven) ,i guess the check engine light was a dumb question sry
Great video Mike! Thanks for the help. One question: Did you remove the actual reed valves? Or keep them in place to act as a 'gasket' for the new block-off plates?
I kept them in. You need the seal.
It looks like you have a heat shield on the underside of your tank. What did you use since it’s not a stock option for 2005?
sorry, it was on the bike when I bought it.
Hey Mike. I need a bit of advice. My FJR's windscreen does not go down when I out the ignition off.
However twice after putting the ignition off and removing the key, only my neutral light stayed in for about 2-3 seconds then when it went off my windshield dropped too.
Any idea where or what to check? I cannot find anything on the forums.
Hello, mine only occasionally goes down as well. Its common that a switch in the windshield motor goes bad. Its only sold as an assembly.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 thank you. Next time it goes down, check your ignition to see if your neutral light stays on for a short while.
You need to buy a multimeter and find out how to use it.It will save you a lot if heartache,time and money.It's a simple device,easy to use and will sort out 12v systems very quickly.
Your problem sounds like either a switch or dirty terminals.
Hi Mike you dtill got your Gen 1 fjr?
I just purchased a 2003 and i love it, however i feel it might be suffering with vibration as did yours. As the motor builds up to around 5-6k rpm it seems alittle loud and vibration begins. Its not really bad but i know yamaha would not have made it like that. What process of elimination did you use. Did you find one repair fixed the problem or a combination of things. Thanks Mike
Hope you still active on youtube as i will subscribe if you are.
Hello, Yes I do have the bike.
Do you want the long or short story? It was and still is a process of elimination, not just one thing at least for me. Everything I did helped.
I'd start at plugs and coils/wires. This is what can deteriorate over time and could be changed as part of a tune up. Also, check that the plug boots and resistors are clean and tight. That made the biggest difference for me.
Clean or spray out the throttle body with a MAP safe cleaner.
Check that electrical connections in the engine bay are tight and clean as well as the primary wires to the coils.
Check that the engine mounting bolts are torqued. You be surprised how much vibration can be transmitted through a loose bolt.
Check that the TB Sync at idle is correct. Run the engine at 4-6k and also check the TB sync there as well. If the vacuum goes out of sync at higher RPM's then this could indicate a problem with breathing and could be contributing to vibration. In this case, check that the TB boots are tight and have no leak's. Make sure the TB plate adjustments have not been touched. If so, a unofficial TBS may be needed (Google it). This will change the plate settings from factory and is only done if we know the plates have been touched. Make sure there are no dent's in any of the headers.
There are also more in-depth things to check if the sync is off at higher RPM's like compression, valves, etc.
Also, in the forums, I heard that Yamaha keeps these bikes lean to meet emissions. The Power Commander III USB is suggested to smooth out the engine. I happened to get a Dobeck EJK Fuel Controller really cheap on Ebay. So I've been experimenting with it and found that if I richen the idle to 4-5k range the bike got smoother. I'm looking to get a fuel/ratio meter to help with setting the controller. Unfortunately the GEN 1's cant use the Power Commander V with Autotune.
I know it was a long reply but I hope it helps.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Thats all a big help Mike, i will go through these one at a time and hopefully hit on the culprit. As i explained its not really bad, and the bike still pulls like a train, but its just not right at thise higher rpm's.
Relly appreciate you taking the time out to try and help. Your a top guy.
If i solve the problem i will drop you a message.
One thing I just found out today that I completely overlooked. Is... Make sure you have an OEM or K&N filter installed. I had a hiflo filter since I got the bike and I just change to a K&N filter. I did not realize how much the aftermarket filter was limiting the airflow. My vibration got a lot better. It did not eliminate it, but there was at least for me a substantial improvement vibration and power. Of course I have a fuel controller that's richening up the fuel so that may influence the power, but with nothing but switching filters I've seen a change. Just thought I let you know something I stumbled on. Mike
Im confused tho.. did you completely remove the pipes that were coming from yhe motor into the air box?
Did you have to block off any pipes?
Hello, yes it completely removes air injection into the exhaust by eliminating the pipes and valve. A rubber cap is placed over the connection to the airbox. Hope this helps.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 howdy.
Thanks a mil it sure does! Im from Cape Town South Africa and hoping to buy an FJR, God willing the one I gave my eye on. Will know later this week.
If yiu have Facebook feel free to add me.
Now aim going to look for a video explaining for to change spark plugs as that seems a mission
@@horeamarinescu1016 Your welcome. Good luck on your purchase. I have a facebook with nothing in it. I never got into it.
Hi Mike In my FJR I have many kms (257 thousand), basically I do everything! But there is one thing I never did ... was to "wash" the engine. Your FJR has an immaculate engine. Now the question! How to clean / wash your engine. Thank you
With the bike fairings off, just auto wash soap and water. Nothing fancy.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 You never know about electrical equipment ... thanks.
Did you remove the reed valves?
Thank you, you made my day!.
No I did not remove the reed's, I just cleaned them up. The read valves have a rubber seal that the plate sit's against.
Hello mike thanks agian for the vids, i disconnected the pair system at the tee, i just added a piece of 3/8 copper to join the hoses ,i did notice it is quieter ,i left the valve and kept it plugged in. Idk if i gained any performance ? Ive got a surge that from what ive been reading is fixable with a power commander,it sucks that ive got to put 300.00 on it ,i think yamaha outta to have addressed that problem but anyhow what can u do?thanks agian for vids ,keep em comin
Glad adding the pipe worked out for you. I don't think I gained any power either. But I think making the engine quieter helps with the perception of the engine running better.
When I put the foam grip's on the bike, the larger circumference of the grip helped control the surge. I think that in order to comply with emissions, they had to thin out the mixture at idle. That's why the PC help's.
BTW, I don't have a power commander either. if I ever change the header's, then I'll have to get it along with a tune.
How many miles are on the bike? I bought a used 2013 that has 12,000 miles (very well kept bike), and I'm curious at about what mileage should I be thinking about doing this?
Hello,
I added the plates after I did the valve check. At about 70,000 miles, the passage ways were clogged and the reeds needed to be replaced. So I decided on just eliminating the system and put in the block off plates instead of replacing them.
It's for emissions. I'd leave them alone until they stop working.
I have about 96,000 miles on the bike and it runs better than it ever did when I got it. The top end sounds smooth. On the 05, I did change the cam chain tensioner. It was making noise and they did revise the component. I think that was just the gen 1 and early gen 2's.
I need to do a valve check and I'll probably change the cam chain due to miles.
I've heard of bikes going over 200,000 miles. Mine is almost 100,000 and it seems like it could go another 100,000.
I can't say enough about motul. I'm using the 7100, full synthetic. The engine is quiet and shifts well .
Thanks, mike
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Thanks for the great info, Mike. Curious....have your valves needed adjustment? I don't have a shop manual and haven't checked into it. Coming from the dirt world, valves are kind of a big deal to the smaller thumpers. I check mine every 40 hours, and they usually need adjustment before 100 hours of operation. Is the 1300 a shim and bucket system?
I bought Motul 7100 for my next oil change. Just changed it using the Yamalube oil at 13,000. I'll change again at 15,000.
I am curious if the aftermarket seats are any better. Many talk of lower back soreness, but my problem is more around the hip/groin area. Reviews on aftermarket seats are very subjective, so I'm trying to get as much info as possible before dumping $800+ on something that might not make a difference.
I did the valve check at about 60,000. Some of the valves were in range and I had a few that needed adjustment. Yes, it's a bucket and shims system.
If you do not have the manual, I have it available at: drive.google.com/file/d/1PUQTPxlLgFJ_7CbOQjzqb8OKrJIm268E/view?usp=drivesdk
I've never driven the Gen3, so I can't comment on the seat as the gen 1 seat is different. Yamaha does have a comfort seat for the gen3. Not sure what the difference would be.
I have not tried any aftermarket seats. My seat is starting to show wear and its age. So, I'll probably need to invest in a seat in the future. Most likely, Top Sellerie in France. If you order on their website, you can customize the materials, seat height and if it has gel or heat.
I have driven from Jersey to Tennessee in one day. I found that at about 2 hours, I start to get pain the hips as well. I figured I usually have to take a pitstop and stretch about the same time, so I figure in 15-minute breaks in the trip, then I'm good to go for another 2 hours.