See our sandbox build here: • Worlds Most Awesome Sa... Here are the links to Amazon where I got the parts to build this: Reversing solenoid: goo.gl/FJy8yb Wireless transmitter: goo.gl/dN6pTM
Thanks for the video. You need to put a fuse into the positive wire from the battery. As you can see a short circuit will heat those wires up enough to start a fire. Fuse should be about 25% higher that the rated current draw of the winch.
You need to have the both the battery red wires bolt down before you put the 2 black negative wire battery wires on. That is what caused the sparks and the short. Black off first, red on first to replace is the rule. other than that good job.
@@lifeoutdoors7095 i know this is a long time since you saw this video but you do not need to switch motor wires to reverse polarity just switch the 2 wires (spade connectors ) for remote in most cases the blue yellow remote connectors are all you need
You were screwing down the pos with a nut screwdriver when you tilted the shaft grounded . You said you didn't know what happened . I will give you some advice , don't ever connect to power before you connect to the thing being powered. Your first mistake was trying to be a teacher when you haven't been the student yet . To anyone watching this if you are going to try this . Never hook up to your power first IE battery . That is last..
Nice info. HOWEVER!!! The reason you got sparks is because you effectively short-circuited between the pos and neg poles of the battery. Using the steel socket driver to tighten nuts on the solenoid, it was inevitable, because you connected the solenoid to the battery terminals first. ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE FOOLING AROUND WITH WHATEVER IT'S ATTACHED TO! Just a word to the wise. Another commenter talks about using an inline fuse, which would have blown if fitted. With no fuse or circuit breaker, the heat produced by the short-circuit could have welded the socket driver to the contacts it was touching. Next to zero Ohms resistance, with a battery that develops 600 cold cranking Amps or more, and you could easily have had an explosion. Further, just because the battery has a stated 600 CCA, doesn't mean that's it's limit, but assuming that 600 Amps is it's limit, Volts times current (Amps) equals Watts. That's 12 times 600 equals 7,200 Watts. Your average kettle only uses one third of this.
Thanks for posting! I've been using the wired remote that came with my winch and it is really a tangled mess some times. If this will work reliably for a long enough time it will be a real blessing. Watched a couple of other vids and the guys meant well I'm sure but they didn't really show how to actually do anything?
@@lifeoutdoors7095 Just finished installing the remote on my winch. Works great now I have to make a cover for it and I connected it to the winch motor with 50 amp Anderson type connectors so I can still use the old wired remote if I have to. Thanks again for the video and info.!
@@lloydprunier4415 The system I used was cheaply made in china. So far its been working well. The remote controllers seem to be the weak spot though. I'm glad it came with two, because the bigger remote one only works intermittently now. Overall I'm happy with it. I'm happy it all worked out for you!
*IF ONE WOULD LIKE THE IN &OUT TOGGLE SWITCH HOOKED UP ALONG WITH ALSO WIRELESS REMOTE AS WELL, WHERE DO YOU CONNECT THE MANUAL IN &OUT TOGGLE TWITCH WIRES?
Good question. I would have to experiment to find out, but here is my thought. I would connect it as per the directions. The toggle switch has two sets of leads, with one set of leads going directly to the winch and the other to the battery. That way it bypasses the wireless set up when being used, and when using the wireless it should still work. Just don't use both the wireless and wired toggle switches at the same time. I haven't tried it yet, so give it a shot and let me know if it works.
Get a momentary switch. Should have 3 prongs. One for power then the other 2 would go to spade terminals on the reversing solenoid. Should work fine. If one wanted to bu pass module completely. Just an off/on switch going to module.
It does click, but I believe its the reversing solenoid that's clicking. The transmitter is cheap junk from china, so there is a chance it won't work. I figure I can just replace it for $20 rather than spend the $400 on a good one.
I can't say for sure, but here's how I see it. The reversing selenoid also makes a disconnect to the battery, so when it's not going up or down it keeps power from going to the winch. If you took it out, them you would have a direct connection to the winch with no way to stop it. You can still use the set up I have, just only use the forward button. So the wireless transmitter needs to be hooked into the selenoid for it to work.
Do i need that solenoid when my winch has a control box already or are both needed, does the relay change the direction of the winch, right now it only works in one direction but that could be because i hooked it up wrong and smelt something burning. Or like i am kind of hoping the relay is needed, anyone out there like an electrician or somebody help, thanx
Hi. Good video. Is there any instruction how to pair the remote if it’s not linked to the control box? I got a winch with a remote and it isn’t paired, and can’t find the instruction how to code them together. It’s the same remote as yours. Thabks
NEVER NEVER connect full circuit, (connect power last,) until ALL wires are correctly connected dont play with electrical components unless you proficient,
Diddnt work wires everywhere and a pain in the butt why arnt they all wireless ? Im just gonna save the clutter and headache and buy the proper winch system lol wow
Thanks for the video. You need to put a fuse into the positive wire from the battery. As you can see a short circuit will heat those wires up enough to start a fire. Fuse should be about 25% higher that the rated current draw of the winch.
You don't put fuses on Cables that are meant for winches. You put breakers. You will be going through a lot of fuses if you did.
Very nice honest video, I learn more from these uncut good/bad/ugly ones than the polished fast talking pros !!
Thanks for the comment. I try to make videos that are actually helpful, which means showing my mistakes too!
Always leave the negative wire off the battery until your finished wiring....
Thanks! Good video. Good job cutting out the unnecessary fluff and thanks for leaving 6:47 in there!!
Thanks. I believe in getting right to the point and keeping it real.
And yet I still had to run the video at 1.5 speed.
You need to have the both the battery red wires bolt down before you put the 2 black negative wire battery wires on. That is what caused the sparks and the short. Black off first, red on first to replace is the rule. other than that good job.
Thanks for the info.
6:45 Made my night, lol. Glad u didnt edit it out. Added a little comedy to the video.
you can also switch pos and neg on the motor if the in/out are reversed, great video, very informative
Thanks for the tip.
@@lifeoutdoors7095 i know this is a long time since you saw this video but you do not need to switch motor wires to reverse polarity just switch the 2 wires (spade connectors ) for remote in most cases the blue yellow remote connectors are all you need
Used it on my boat lift ,thanks works great 👍
Excellent instructions! Off to hook mine up!
Thanks. Great job.
Thanks the instructions that came with mine were worse than useless. this video solved the puzzle.
You were screwing down the pos with a nut screwdriver when you tilted the shaft grounded .
You said you didn't know what happened .
I will give you some advice , don't ever connect to power before you connect to the thing
being powered. Your first mistake was trying to be a teacher when you haven't been the student yet .
To anyone watching this if you are going to try this . Never hook up to your power first
IE battery . That is last..
Very very good !! Thank you for your help !
Nice info. HOWEVER!!! The reason you got sparks is because you effectively short-circuited between the pos and neg poles of the battery. Using the steel socket driver to tighten nuts on the solenoid, it was inevitable, because you connected the solenoid to the battery terminals first. ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE FOOLING AROUND WITH WHATEVER IT'S ATTACHED TO! Just a word to the wise. Another commenter talks about using an inline fuse, which would have blown if fitted. With no fuse or circuit breaker, the heat produced by the short-circuit could have welded the socket driver to the contacts it was touching. Next to zero Ohms resistance, with a battery that develops 600 cold cranking Amps or more, and you could easily have had an explosion. Further, just because the battery has a stated 600 CCA, doesn't mean that's it's limit, but assuming that 600 Amps is it's limit, Volts times current (Amps) equals Watts. That's 12 times 600 equals 7,200 Watts. Your average kettle only uses one third of this.
Thanks for posting! I've been using the wired remote that came with my winch and it is really a tangled mess some times. If this will work reliably for a long enough time it will be a real blessing. Watched a couple of other vids and the guys meant well I'm sure but they didn't really show how to actually do anything?
I searched hard when I did it, and couldn't find anything useful, so I figured I would put something out there. Glad it helped.
@@lifeoutdoors7095 Just finished installing the remote on my winch. Works great now I have to make a cover for it and I connected it to the winch motor with 50 amp Anderson type connectors so I can still use the old wired remote if I have to. Thanks again for the video and info.!
@@lloydprunier4415 The system I used was cheaply made in china. So far its been working well. The remote controllers seem to be the weak spot though. I'm glad it came with two, because the bigger remote one only works intermittently now. Overall I'm happy with it. I'm happy it all worked out for you!
*IF ONE WOULD LIKE THE IN &OUT TOGGLE SWITCH HOOKED UP ALONG WITH ALSO WIRELESS REMOTE AS WELL, WHERE DO YOU CONNECT THE MANUAL IN &OUT TOGGLE TWITCH WIRES?
Good question. I would have to experiment to find out, but here is my thought. I would connect it as per the directions. The toggle switch has two sets of leads, with one set of leads going directly to the winch and the other to the battery. That way it bypasses the wireless set up when being used, and when using the wireless it should still work. Just don't use both the wireless and wired toggle switches at the same time. I haven't tried it yet, so give it a shot and let me know if it works.
Get a momentary switch. Should have 3 prongs. One for power then the other 2 would go to spade terminals on the reversing solenoid. Should work fine. If one wanted to bu pass module completely. Just an off/on switch going to module.
shouldnt you have a fuse on the power wire to battery? my winch has a 50amp fuse. It would of stopped you from almost making a fire lol
Yes! I actually use a circuit breaker.
Does ur wireless box click when u hit the up or down button mine does am thinking that the box might be junk I know mine winch works
It does click, but I believe its the reversing solenoid that's clicking. The transmitter is cheap junk from china, so there is a chance it won't work. I figure I can just replace it for $20 rather than spend the $400 on a good one.
Yes hearing it click is due to it making contact either way. If you don't hear it click that's when you have a problem.
The relay is what you hear clicking
Hi.
Does it have any safety built in?
What happens when the cable is fully pulled in, and you're still pressing the IN button?
Thanks.
That’s funny
It probably would have happened to me too
Thanks
Happy to help!
If you don't' need to have the motor reverse, then you simply don't need the reversing solenoid, right?
I can't say for sure, but here's how I see it. The reversing selenoid also makes a disconnect to the battery, so when it's not going up or down it keeps power from going to the winch. If you took it out, them you would have a direct connection to the winch with no way to stop it. You can still use the set up I have, just only use the forward button. So the wireless transmitter needs to be hooked into the selenoid for it to work.
Well thanks for showing me how to hook it up now. I just hope I don't get to spark and sensation like you did l o l
Do i need that solenoid when my winch has a control box already or are both needed, does the relay change the direction of the winch, right now it only works in one direction but that could be because i hooked it up wrong and smelt something burning. Or like i am kind of hoping the relay is needed, anyone out there like an electrician or somebody help, thanx
Hi. Good video. Is there any instruction how to pair the remote if it’s not linked to the control box? I got a winch with a remote and it isn’t paired, and can’t find the instruction how to code them together. It’s the same remote as yours. Thabks
Mine was paired up, so I never had to do that. Sorry, wish I had a better answer for you.
I’ve ordered up a new one. Found no way online and I searched
NEVER NEVER connect full circuit, (connect power last,) until ALL wires are correctly connected dont play with electrical components unless you proficient,
Hi! Could you guive me more some instructions.
Diddnt work wires everywhere and a pain in the butt why arnt they all wireless ? Im just gonna save the clutter and headache and buy the proper winch system lol wow