*Support what we do at* www.kmtools.com *The Katz-Moses Woodworker’s With Disability Fund* kmtools.com/pages/kmww-charity *Chris Cole on Instagram* instagram.com/chriscobracole/ *C.Cole and Co Woodworking on Instagram* instagram.com/ccoleandco/
I really had to check to make sure like 3x that Chris Cole was actually in the video. I didn’t realize Chris was a woodworker whenever he’s not being a skateboarding legend. Awesome video!
Before anyone says it: I go over how to check that the panel is off and panel safety at 12:26. I should've included it in the beginning but hindsight is 20/20. Always exercise extreme caution when working with electricity and always consult an electrician if you're not sure how to do something.
Lol! I figured it would follow, but when you started out touching the breakers, my first thought was holy sh*t, I sure hope he reminds people to turn off the panel before doing that! 🤣🤣
It's also something that should be mentioned that residential panels CANNOT be fully turned off ever, so long as the house is connected to the power grid. Even if you turn off the main breaker, the feed lines will STILL be hot and carrying lethal current. Additionally, the neutral lines don't have breakers on them. They SHOULD be bonded to ground in the panel, but shit happens and it's possible for the bond to be broken. If that happens, there's the chance of a voltage from neutral to ground, even if the breakers are off. Basically, if you're in your panel, don't touch anything metal that isn't directly grounded even if the breakers are turned off.
Sure is 208V between any two phases (sqrt of 3 x 120V). The phases are 120 degrees out of phase not 180 like a house that has 120/240 by offsetting the two hot legs by 180 (basically one side is positive and the other negative from a center tap transformer). Very different systems supply by different transformers. Some old systems may just tap off a 208V system too so your house may also also be 120/208V instead of 240V just based on tapping two phases.
Maybe, maybe not. Without seeing the name plate in that transformer, do you know it’s 208/120v 3ph 4W? Or is it 240/120v 3ph 4W? It could be either. You guys are assuming. Dangerous!
I’m not sure what advantages there would be to using 240 for most house devices, and we do typically use 240 for those devices that do benefit from the higher voltage. US residential service is a 240 volts and it is a little confusing because the transformer your main panel is connected to has a center tap, which is what the neutral wire connects to. A tap on transformer allows for various percentages of the maximum voltage, and a center tap is at the halfway point, so half the voltage, or 120v. The wires into your panel are the two legs [not phases] of the supply, and they have a potential of 240v when connected to a device. The other wire is the Neutral connecting the center tap of the transformer on the utility pole to the neutral bar of your panel. 120v circuits have the Hot wire [typically black or red] connected to the breaker [which connects to a single leg] and the White wire to the Neutral bus bar [and on the center tap] so the potential of one leg to neutral is 120V. In the case of a 240v circuit uses 2 breakers or a double breaker that connects to both legs giving 240v potential, and no connection to the Neutral bus. There are a couple caveats that can be confusing. Wire color can be confusing, in many cases people have Black\white\ground Romex on hand, so one of the hot legs will use a white wire, which could get confusing - you should mark that wire with a sharpie or tape. Best case scenario would individual wire in conduit [blk, red, ground]. That is how you would direct wire 240v heat or a large motor or shop tool. More recently 240v outlets for dryer and stoves require a 4 wire outlets including a neutral. The reason why is that the white wire allows for a 120v source at the device to power control panels or lighting. You would use blk, red, white ground to supply the receptacle. The black and red would give 240 to the main load and blk or red to the white would supply 120.
You should always run a neutral wire from the panel regardless if you need it or not. The reason why is for future changes. Besides you should always have it it's part of electrical codes.
Was scrolling through and thought, "that looks like Chris Cole with JKM". Clicked on it and was super surprised. I had no idea he was into woodworking. What a legend.
Hi Johnathon, I really enjoy most your videos EXCEPT THIS ONE. I am an electrical contractor here in Australia and having lost work associates to electrocution I can't over emphasise how dangerous electricity is, "you don't get a second bite of the cherry with 240v". One work associate who worked as an equipment assembler in a factory purchased all of the parts to carry out his own wiring at his home, when he didn't emerge from under the his house his son went under to tell him his lunch was ready but found him still clutching the LIVE cable that he evidently thought was isolated but drastically wasn',t no second chance there. I realise that codes are different in every country but as your videos are watched world wide I couldn't watch your video without grimacing in despair as to how many mistakes there are for Australian codes for instance. PLEASE, PLEASE leave electrical work to fully licensed personal, life is far to precious.
"Before reaching into a panel you really want to make sure this thing is off. I have quadruple checked and I have checked again" As a former electrician can confirm, people do stupid things on job sites.
Just trying to learn what the heck im gonna need to do to get the tools I want... Even some 110v machines use 20A plugs and technically need their own circuit. What a pain, may as well run 240v. Thinking having a dedicated panel installed would be much easier than trying to run off my existing panels through a finished house.
He's a great woodworker too and a super nice guy. I gave him a dovetail lesson and he did the best set I've ever seen someone do on their first try. 15/10
Oy! Braver than I am. As you suggested, I’ll do the conduit, plugs and wire with lots of excess on the panel end. But when it comes to the panel, time for a licensed pro (who I actually consulted before I started).
Couple small things, with stranded wire you should use crimp-on terminals if the receptacle doesn't have clamps and on the ground wire to the box. Also color of wire does matter at the panel, breakers top to bottom go black red blue on a 3 phase like yours. I think you wanted to use red and blue, but that's just ocd talking. On the receptacle, it doesn't matter. A good idea in a metal box is to put tape around the receptacle covering the screw terminals so if it comes loose and touches the box you get no bzzt. And lube, no. Bushings on the pipe connections inside the box, yes. Always hire an electrician to check your work.
@@zachazlett Crimp is not a thing, it's a verb. Wrapping a stranded wire around a screw is only allowable if the UL listed device states it is an option. I would love to see that if you have an example. Stranded wire should be terminated in a clamp, solid pig-tail or Sta-Kon type connector according to most manufacturers.
Just to point out, in a 3phase commercial panel with bolt down breakers, you need to install only bolt down breakers not snap in. Fyi the take off on 3/4" emt is 6".
Good video. Thanks. I have some safety comments from experience working at an electric utility. Be aware that finger-pointing at open and energized electrical panels can lead to a deadly arc flash. 120/240 volt single-phase and 120/208 volt three-phase can kill you. In addition, face shields and low-voltage gloves should be used until the panel has been confirmed to be de-energized.
We have 120/240v 1 ph, 208/120v 3 ph 4w, 240v 3 ph 3w, 240/120v 3ph 4w, 480v 3ph 3w, 480/277v 3ph 4w, 416/240v 3ph 4w just for most buildings. If the power requirements get large enough, we can go up to 4160v or 12,470v 3 ph systems. So, we win!
Here what's wrong. If you can get 120v from a 3 phase panel. The panel is 120/208V panel. The max voltage at that plug if both leads are on the hots is 208v. Measuring hot to neutrals is not correct way to determine your phase voltage between hots. This means the motor is now under powered with voltage and drawing more current, which is not good for the motor
At the beginning I was thinking it's great that he's saying 240V instead of "220", and then I saw the 3-phase panel. A nominal 208V supply will be at the low end of the tolerance for a 230V motor but will probably be fine unless the supply is at an undervoltage condition. Where you run into problems are with electric resistance heating loads like glass and ceramic kilns. Operating a 240V device at 208V will require you to replace the heating coils with ones that have lower resistance.
Pretty interesting process indeed, Jonathan! 😃 Here in Brazil I have absolutely no idea of how it works... But I imagine it would be a bit different. 😂 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
If your area is supplied with 220V, normal outlets are 220V 10A and can be daisy chained. If you need more than 10A, you need an exclusive circuit with 220V 20A outlet and these cannot be daisy chained. If you area is supplied with 127V, normal outlets are 127V 10A and can be daisy chained. You can also add 220V 10A outlets, which can be daisy chained, by using two phases instead phase and neutral. For 20A outlets, you can have 127V 20A or 220V 20A, which needs an exclusive circuit and cannot be daisy chained. For three phase outlets, same rules as 20A outlets applies, but with different outlets designed for three phase. Homes can be powered with single, two or three phases, so check if you have at least two phases for a 220V outlet in a 127V mains area.
You’re confusing a duplex device with multiple devices. The duplex device is still considered one receptacle, single set of wires run to it. What you cannot do is multiple receptacles in a single box. You could do multiple boxes of a single circuit in 220/240 in some counties, NEC last I checked does not prevent this, but you need to uprate your conductor size, and conduit.
@@mrljvb I think you misunderstood me. I wasn't talking anything about having multiple receptacles in a single box (though I have never heard of that being an issue before). I was talking about the statement he made in the video "every 240v outlet needs its own circuit" , which you and I both agree is not a real limitation. I'm interested in the NEC section that bans having a 2 gang or bigger box with multiple 240v circuits in it. I don't know of any reason why it wouldn't be allowed. In fact, all the duplex receptacles I can find have the ability to have each outlet be a different circuit by snipping the link between them like you see on every normal 120v receptacle. Obviously, you still have to follow box fill/conduit fill/wire size/etc rules, but that's not unique to 240v circuits.
I need 240 volts for my drier. Have 4 prung outlet and plug (ground, neutral and 2 hots) I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts? Should I remove the white/neutral? Please advise.
Kinda funny watching someone who works with measurements all day day he's gonna strip about 1/4 inch of wire, and then proceed to strip at least 1/2 to 5/8 inch of insulation, lol
Was there a reason for the stranded wire over say using solid wire for the hots? We used solid in my shop but the guy helping me I trust as he sold the electrical stuff to farms and brought it all. Also to note the conduit bender makes an awesome clean looking bend and installation BUT for the average homeowner tackling something like this I always just bought the pre-bent pieces and connected them. I know it's not as clean of a look and maybe in the long run been cheaper to buy the bender I'm not sure. It's one of them I always think for a one time job why buy the $40 tool (1/2" bender) when a couple of 90s are $6. Just wanted to throw that out there as another option is all for some.
Do all breakers and panels look like this in the US? I have to admit I'm a little shocked, how easy you can electrocute yourself because of missing plastic-shields. I don't wanna say, its not possible to do so in germany, but it seems so much easier with the equipment you are provided with. Stay save! I like your style and videos to much :D
I don’t think his description of 240 is correct, instead of two out of phase 120 waves, it’s a single sine wave twice as high. Also, 240 does not use a neutral because the neutral is a center tap from 240v transformer. US residential power is 240, the neutral to the center tap of the transformer on the electric pole allows 120v circuits. It’s a bit confusing because most circuits are 120
I need 240 volts for my drier. Have 4 prung outlet and plug (ground, neutral and 2 hots) I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts? Should I remove the white/neutral? Please advise.
This video is improperly confuses 208V 3-phase service (what Jonathan has) with 240V single-phase service (found in most residential locations in North America). That's bad because running a 240V motor on 208V is giving it 13% less voltage, which will often (depending on type of motor) mean not getting the torque or power that the device is designed for. (On the other hand, the opposite direction would be far worse: running a 208V motor on 240V can overheat it or destroy the motor, although it depends). 208V and 240V devices are not interchangeable, although often they will work just fine; but when they don't it's an expensive mistake. Also, it's usually accepted that there may be 5-10% variation in line voltage, so a 240V device ought to run on 216V-264V, but you can still be pressing your luck. (Similarly, devices actually labelled 220V or 230V, whether from the European market or otherwise, encompass both 208V and 240V in their +/- 10% range. But it's not great to rely on this) The asides about "code may vary" are also relatively misleading. In the US, the National Electric Code is near universal. Different jurisdictions have adopted different yearly versions of the code, with local amendments, but the bare bones are the same everywhere, and things like wire gauge and grounding requirements are not questions of local variation. Making it sound like they are breeds confusion.
No comment on numerous things incorrect as stated by others, but those transformers have their GEC incorrectly connected to ground rods driven in holes in the concrete. Absolute, no no!
Had too much coffee? The first 7 minutes or so, you spoke so fast it was difficult to follow you. Now I imagine you were rushing to keep the video time as short as possible. I think I'll rerun that part of the video at 1/2 or 3/4 speed so I have time to grasp the concepts and suggestions. Thanks for taking the time to post this video, electrical info from someone I can trust.
Jonathan, I think of you like an older brother that woodworks. You know something like that, this is already starting to sound weird. All I'm trying to say is that I respect you, and look up to you. Some of which is because of where you came from, working as a bartender. And now you're producing some of the finest, Dovetrail joins on CZcams, dare I say the world!! Anyhow, Jesus, I can talk. And take forever doing it. Without there even being any importance to what the heck I'm saying.. Alright so, everything I've just said is simply to say that I'm not making fun of you. Or trying to be an ASS-istant!! (ASS-istant= donkey in a hurry! Lol) I'm also not trying to be disrespectful in any sense of the word. That just really made me laugh, "230v that between 220 and 240!" Oh really?! Wow.. I had no clue.. lol I'm sorry man. (Really not trying to be that guy on the other side of the keyboard, being a D-canoe.) And, I've also never tried to shoot video of myself woodworking, doing electrical, or anything else for that matter!! So there's that too.. Alright so, great video as usual my friend. Nicely done, btw if you end up needing a hand tool for doing a project whether being electrical, or anything else. You should check out (if you haven't already.) Knipex. They make the best hand tools that I've used other then USA made, quality tools of course. Talk, talk, talk... Lol sorry about the novel.. Take care
Everyone does not under stand 220 volt. In the United States of America. In England in there house. The only use 220. And that's one wire hot and one wire ground. And that's why when you go to England you phone chargers have to be. Rated for 240 volts to keep from burning up you phone charger. Say this I know some dumbass is saying this oh he don't know. Well lady's and gentlemen. I do know voltage is different all over the world . I am a journeyman electrician. And have experience from electricity all over the world. In Canada they use 347 volt. Germany industry voltages use 400 volt. Home depot bought a bunch of thankless water heaters and almost lost there ass because the purchase clerk for homedepot did not know the difference. So we can recap 220 is one wire has 220 volts and the other one is a ground. I'm sure none of you are understanding what I'm saying but that's why you hire electrician instead of trying to talk about something you really don't comprehend
I believe there is a national code called NFPA 70 but there's additional local/state codes depending on where ypu live and also if it's residential or commercial.
@@katzmosestools NFPA70e pertains to electrical safety. the NEC (National Electric Code) is the codebook the USA uses. There are a lot of instances in the codebook where it says "AHJ" Which means, Authority having jurisdiction. And that's where the local codes come into play. Most of the time, stick to the NEC and you'll be golden. Source: Am commercial electrician in Pennsylvania. IBEW L.U. 5
*Support what we do at* www.kmtools.com
*The Katz-Moses Woodworker’s With Disability Fund* kmtools.com/pages/kmww-charity
*Chris Cole on Instagram* instagram.com/chriscobracole/
*C.Cole and Co Woodworking on Instagram* instagram.com/ccoleandco/
You sure it's not Kat'z-Mose's Woodworker's...?
I really had to check to make sure like 3x that Chris Cole was actually in the video. I didn’t realize Chris was a woodworker whenever he’s not being a skateboarding legend. Awesome video!
Before anyone says it: I go over how to check that the panel is off and panel safety at 12:26. I should've included it in the beginning but hindsight is 20/20. Always exercise extreme caution when working with electricity and always consult an electrician if you're not sure how to do something.
Lol! I figured it would follow, but when you started out touching the breakers, my first thought was holy sh*t, I sure hope he reminds people to turn off the panel before doing that! 🤣🤣
It's also something that should be mentioned that residential panels CANNOT be fully turned off ever, so long as the house is connected to the power grid. Even if you turn off the main breaker, the feed lines will STILL be hot and carrying lethal current. Additionally, the neutral lines don't have breakers on them. They SHOULD be bonded to ground in the panel, but shit happens and it's possible for the bond to be broken. If that happens, there's the chance of a voltage from neutral to ground, even if the breakers are off.
Basically, if you're in your panel, don't touch anything metal that isn't directly grounded even if the breakers are turned off.
Sure never thought I'd see you doing a collab with the Cobra!! Been a fan of his skating for years, but never knew he was also a woodworker. Sick!!!!
Bruh I was tripping I had NO IDEA EITHER !!!! so dope
Same here. I’m riding his signature trucks now.
My two worlds colliding! Love both these dudes!
Interesting editing at 8:58 apparently to avoid YT's community standards involving the application of KY Jelly. Very smooth.
Hello there, very clean and informative.....
Isn't it 208V when using two phases of a three phase panel?
Yes but most non-electricians will call it anything from 208 to 250.
Yep, all that talk about whether it's actually 220 or 240, and both are wrong in this case!
Sure is 208V between any two phases (sqrt of 3 x 120V). The phases are 120 degrees out of phase not 180 like a house that has 120/240 by offsetting the two hot legs by 180 (basically one side is positive and the other negative from a center tap transformer). Very different systems supply by different transformers. Some old systems may just tap off a 208V system too so your house may also also be 120/208V instead of 240V just based on tapping two phases.
Maybe, maybe not. Without seeing the name plate in that transformer, do you know it’s 208/120v 3ph 4W? Or is it 240/120v 3ph 4W? It could be either. You guys are assuming. Dangerous!
US should just go 240V for everything, so many advantages.
Other than safety
I’m not sure what advantages there would be to using 240 for most house devices, and we do typically use 240 for those devices that do benefit from the higher voltage. US residential service is a 240 volts and it is a little confusing because the transformer your main panel is connected to has a center tap, which is what the neutral wire connects to. A tap on transformer allows for various percentages of the maximum voltage, and a center tap is at the halfway point, so half the voltage, or 120v. The wires into your panel are the two legs [not phases] of the supply, and they have a potential of 240v when connected to a device. The other wire is the Neutral connecting the center tap of the transformer on the utility pole to the neutral bar of your panel. 120v circuits have the Hot wire [typically black or red] connected to the breaker [which connects to a single leg] and the White wire to the Neutral bus bar [and on the center tap] so the potential of one leg to neutral is 120V. In the case of a 240v circuit uses 2 breakers or a double breaker that connects to both legs giving 240v potential, and no connection to the Neutral bus. There are a couple caveats that can be confusing. Wire color can be confusing, in many cases people have Black\white\ground Romex on hand, so one of the hot legs will use a white wire, which could get confusing - you should mark that wire with a sharpie or tape. Best case scenario would individual wire in conduit [blk, red, ground]. That is how you would direct wire 240v heat or a large motor or shop tool. More recently 240v outlets for dryer and stoves require a 4 wire outlets including a neutral. The reason why is that the white wire allows for a 120v source at the device to power control panels or lighting. You would use blk, red, white ground to supply the receptacle. The black and red would give 240 to the main load and blk or red to the white would supply 120.
You should always run a neutral wire from the panel regardless if you need it or not. The reason why is for future changes. Besides you should always have it it's part of electrical codes.
This is my next step after finishing the divider walls in my shop
Was scrolling through and thought, "that looks like Chris Cole with JKM". Clicked on it and was super surprised. I had no idea he was into woodworking. What a legend.
i thought the exact thing, nothing that man isnt good at, one of my all time favorite skaters too
Lol you did all the talking and your home buy just stood there
Holy shit what a crossover. Chris Cole one of the greatest street skaters! Awesome to know that he loves this shit too.
Hi Johnathon, I really enjoy most your videos EXCEPT THIS ONE. I am an electrical contractor here in Australia and having lost work associates to electrocution I can't over emphasise how dangerous electricity is, "you don't get a second bite of the cherry with 240v". One work associate who worked as an equipment assembler in a factory purchased all of the parts to carry out his own wiring at his home, when he didn't emerge from under the his house his son went under to tell him his lunch was ready but found him still clutching the LIVE cable that he evidently thought was isolated but drastically wasn',t no second chance there. I realise that codes are different in every country but as your videos are watched world wide I couldn't watch your video without grimacing in despair as to how many mistakes there are for Australian codes for instance. PLEASE, PLEASE leave electrical work to fully licensed personal, life is far to precious.
Had to double take seeing Cobra in the thumbnail. Cool!
"Before reaching into a panel you really want to make sure this thing is off. I have quadruple checked and I have checked again"
As a former electrician can confirm, people do stupid things on job sites.
I can confirm that they are really easy to install in europe :D
🤣🤣 lucky
EXCELLENT VIDEO! THANK YOU!👍👍
Just trying to learn what the heck im gonna need to do to get the tools I want... Even some 110v machines use 20A plugs and technically need their own circuit. What a pain, may as well run 240v. Thinking having a dedicated panel installed would be much easier than trying to run off my existing panels through a finished house.
Very helpful and thorough explanations. Thanks!
Here in Israel I have a three phase 220 16x3 amp breaker for my induction stove.
Interesting, thx for upload.
Cheers
Chris cole holy crap!!
He's a great woodworker too and a super nice guy. I gave him a dovetail lesson and he did the best set I've ever seen someone do on their first try. 15/10
Oy! Braver than I am. As you suggested, I’ll do the conduit, plugs and wire with lots of excess on the panel end. But when it comes to the panel, time for a licensed pro (who I actually consulted before I started).
Couple small things, with stranded wire you should use crimp-on terminals if the receptacle doesn't have clamps and on the ground wire to the box. Also color of wire does matter at the panel, breakers top to bottom go black red blue on a 3 phase like yours. I think you wanted to use red and blue, but that's just ocd talking. On the receptacle, it doesn't matter. A good idea in a metal box is to put tape around the receptacle covering the screw terminals so if it comes loose and touches the box you get no bzzt. And lube, no. Bushings on the pipe connections inside the box, yes. Always hire an electrician to check your work.
Blue for phase!? You guys are barbarians! 🤣
Unless the screw terminal is UL listed for a crimp you shouldn’t use them. They are lost to wrap a stranded wire directly around them.
@@Kuro-ik3qn Well we also have brown, orange and yellow phases.
@@zachazlett Crimp is not a thing, it's a verb. Wrapping a stranded wire around a screw is only allowable if the UL listed device states it is an option. I would love to see that if you have an example. Stranded wire should be terminated in a clamp, solid pig-tail or Sta-Kon type connector according to most manufacturers.
@@BariumCobaltNitrog3n yeah I could’ve said sta-kon, fork terminal, or crimp-on terminal. You really got me there 😂. I guess you win that one.
I was so confused... I was thinking, is it just me or is that Chris Cole!? Very cool. Time to go play some Tony Hawks Pro Skater 5.
Just to point out, in a 3phase commercial panel with bolt down breakers, you need to install only bolt down breakers not snap in. Fyi the take off on 3/4" emt is 6".
Chris Cole!!!
Great skateboarder!!!
Good video. Thanks. I have some safety comments from experience working at an electric utility. Be aware that finger-pointing at open and energized electrical panels can lead to a deadly arc flash. 120/240 volt single-phase and 120/208 volt three-phase can kill you. In addition, face shields and low-voltage gloves should be used until the panel has been confirmed to be de-energized.
Does this procedure works for a restaurant rotisserie kitchen???
Move to Australia!! We have had 230VAC for decades. Along with decimal currency and drive on the left side of the road. 😉
We have 120/240v 1 ph, 208/120v 3 ph 4w, 240v 3 ph 3w, 240/120v 3ph 4w, 480v 3ph 3w, 480/277v 3ph 4w, 416/240v 3ph 4w just for most buildings. If the power requirements get large enough, we can go up to 4160v or 12,470v 3 ph systems. So, we win!
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Here what's wrong.
If you can get 120v from a 3 phase panel. The panel is 120/208V panel.
The max voltage at that plug if both leads are on the hots is 208v.
Measuring hot to neutrals is not correct way to determine your phase voltage between hots.
This means the motor is now under powered with voltage and drawing more current, which is not good for the motor
Actually it’s totally fine. Yes the amp draw will be a bit higher but the motors are built for that.
The motor nameplate he showed was 13 amps at 230v. It would draw 14.37 amps at 208.
At the beginning I was thinking it's great that he's saying 240V instead of "220", and then I saw the 3-phase panel. A nominal 208V supply will be at the low end of the tolerance for a 230V motor but will probably be fine unless the supply is at an undervoltage condition.
Where you run into problems are with electric resistance heating loads like glass and ceramic kilns. Operating a 240V device at 208V will require you to replace the heating coils with ones that have lower resistance.
Pretty interesting process indeed, Jonathan! 😃
Here in Brazil I have absolutely no idea of how it works... But I imagine it would be a bit different. 😂
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
If your area is supplied with 220V, normal outlets are 220V 10A and can be daisy chained. If you need more than 10A, you need an exclusive circuit with 220V 20A outlet and these cannot be daisy chained.
If you area is supplied with 127V, normal outlets are 127V 10A and can be daisy chained. You can also add 220V 10A outlets, which can be daisy chained, by using two phases instead phase and neutral. For 20A outlets, you can have 127V 20A or 220V 20A, which needs an exclusive circuit and cannot be daisy chained.
For three phase outlets, same rules as 20A outlets applies, but with different outlets designed for three phase.
Homes can be powered with single, two or three phases, so check if you have at least two phases for a 220V outlet in a 127V mains area.
More Chris Cole collabs please! Love seeing his posts / stories on insta.
Yeah he's an awesome guy and really good woodworker. It was awesome cutting some dovetails with him.
I don't think there's any code against having multiple outlets on a 240v breaker. In fact, you can buy NEMA 6-20R duplex receptacles anywhere
You’re confusing a duplex device with multiple devices. The duplex device is still considered one receptacle, single set of wires run to it. What you cannot do is multiple receptacles in a single box. You could do multiple boxes of a single circuit in 220/240 in some counties, NEC last I checked does not prevent this, but you need to uprate your conductor size, and conduit.
@@mrljvb I think you misunderstood me. I wasn't talking anything about having multiple receptacles in a single box (though I have never heard of that being an issue before). I was talking about the statement he made in the video "every 240v outlet needs its own circuit" , which you and I both agree is not a real limitation.
I'm interested in the NEC section that bans having a 2 gang or bigger box with multiple 240v circuits in it. I don't know of any reason why it wouldn't be allowed.
In fact, all the duplex receptacles I can find have the ability to have each outlet be a different circuit by snipping the link between them like you see on every normal 120v receptacle.
Obviously, you still have to follow box fill/conduit fill/wire size/etc rules, but that's not unique to 240v circuits.
I need 240 volts for my drier. Have 4 prung outlet and plug (ground, neutral and 2 hots) I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts?
Should I remove the white/neutral?
Please advise.
It sounds like you're tapping off of the same leg in your electrical panel somehow, should be opposite. L1 and L2, not L1 and L1or L2 and L2.
Kinda funny watching someone who works with measurements all day day he's gonna strip about 1/4 inch of wire, and then proceed to strip at least 1/2 to 5/8 inch of insulation, lol
Something to keep in mind. Start up for all inductive loads are 5 times plate rating. So your 13 A is run amperage start up is 13 x 5 = 45 A
I was wondering whether that plate was showing peak voltage or running.
Breakers include a time factor for just that reason. 20A is the right breaker.
@@BariumCobaltNitrog3n I know this I was putting out information that he forgot to mention.
where is the thumb-down icon?
Looking very svelte JKM.
Was there a reason for the stranded wire over say using solid wire for the hots? We used solid in my shop but the guy helping me I trust as he sold the electrical stuff to farms and brought it all. Also to note the conduit bender makes an awesome clean looking bend and installation BUT for the average homeowner tackling something like this I always just bought the pre-bent pieces and connected them. I know it's not as clean of a look and maybe in the long run been cheaper to buy the bender I'm not sure. It's one of them I always think for a one time job why buy the $40 tool (1/2" bender) when a couple of 90s are $6. Just wanted to throw that out there as another option is all for some.
It's a lot easier to pull stranded through conduit.
Dunno why I watched this so thoroughly - I live in a part of the world that has 240 as standard.
I’ve read multiple sources saying you can have more than one outlets on one circuit. Is that true you can only have one outlet per breaker?
Looks like you’ve lost a good amount of weight. 👌👌 keep it up
Sorry mate, I do wish you could do Metric as well. Happy days KM.
Do all breakers and panels look like this in the US? I have to admit I'm a little shocked, how easy you can electrocute yourself because of missing plastic-shields.
I don't wanna say, its not possible to do so in germany, but it seems so much easier with the equipment you are provided with.
Stay save! I like your style and videos to much :D
I will tell you that IEC approved equipment is Junk compared to NEMA rated equipment.
They look like this 13:49 until you take the cover off to do work.
9:36 You think that's 1/4"? I must need to get my eyes checked. Looks like way more to me.
I don’t think his description of 240 is correct, instead of two out of phase 120 waves, it’s a single sine wave twice as high. Also, 240 does not use a neutral because the neutral is a center tap from 240v transformer.
US residential power is 240, the neutral to the center tap of the transformer on the electric pole allows 120v circuits. It’s a bit confusing because most circuits are 120
I need 240 volts for my drier. Have 4 prung outlet and plug (ground, neutral and 2 hots) I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts?
Should I remove the white/neutral?
Please advise.
This video is improperly confuses 208V 3-phase service (what Jonathan has) with 240V single-phase service (found in most residential locations in North America). That's bad because running a 240V motor on 208V is giving it 13% less voltage, which will often (depending on type of motor) mean not getting the torque or power that the device is designed for. (On the other hand, the opposite direction would be far worse: running a 208V motor on 240V can overheat it or destroy the motor, although it depends). 208V and 240V devices are not interchangeable, although often they will work just fine; but when they don't it's an expensive mistake. Also, it's usually accepted that there may be 5-10% variation in line voltage, so a 240V device ought to run on 216V-264V, but you can still be pressing your luck. (Similarly, devices actually labelled 220V or 230V, whether from the European market or otherwise, encompass both 208V and 240V in their +/- 10% range. But it's not great to rely on this)
The asides about "code may vary" are also relatively misleading. In the US, the National Electric Code is near universal. Different jurisdictions have adopted different yearly versions of the code, with local amendments, but the bare bones are the same everywhere, and things like wire gauge and grounding requirements are not questions of local variation. Making it sound like they are breeds confusion.
8:56 LOL
Ah yes what a very expected cross over
EDIT: Carpentry NBD's when?
👍😎
Wow, that was interesting.
But,I think Chris spoke way too much throughout that whole presentation 🙄😒, so maybe next time limit his input please🤪🤪🤣🤣
@9:20 " you can not screw this up"
dude you know this is the internet right?
No comment on numerous things incorrect as stated by others, but those transformers have their GEC incorrectly connected to ground rods driven in holes in the concrete. Absolute, no no!
My shop has three 240 outlets on the same breaker. Don't tell anyone.
Nothing wrong with that.
I don't see the problem as long as you only use one at a time. Code may disagree
Only having 1 arm I avoid electrical at all costs. So if it's not 120v, then I'm not touching it lol.
I am no electrician, but should you not be using solid wire?
I am and no. He should be using crimp-on terminals though.
Where I am 220/240v is standard. When we need more power we use 415v.
Had too much coffee? The first 7 minutes or so, you spoke so fast it was difficult to follow you. Now I imagine you were rushing to keep the video time as short as possible. I think I'll rerun that part of the video at 1/2 or 3/4 speed so I have time to grasp the concepts and suggestions. Thanks for taking the time to post this video, electrical info from someone I can trust.
Jonathan, I think of you like an older brother that woodworks. You know something like that, this is already starting to sound weird. All I'm trying to say is that I respect you, and look up to you. Some of which is because of where you came from, working as a bartender. And now you're producing some of the finest, Dovetrail joins on CZcams, dare I say the world!! Anyhow, Jesus, I can talk. And take forever doing it. Without there even being any importance to what the heck I'm saying.. Alright so, everything I've just said is simply to say that I'm not making fun of you. Or trying to be an ASS-istant!! (ASS-istant= donkey in a hurry! Lol) I'm also not trying to be disrespectful in any sense of the word. That just really made me laugh, "230v that between 220 and 240!" Oh really?! Wow.. I had no clue.. lol I'm sorry man. (Really not trying to be that guy on the other side of the keyboard, being a D-canoe.) And, I've also never tried to shoot video of myself woodworking, doing electrical, or anything else for that matter!! So there's that too.. Alright so, great video as usual my friend. Nicely done, btw if you end up needing a hand tool for doing a project whether being electrical, or anything else. You should check out (if you haven't already.) Knipex. They make the best hand tools that I've used other then USA made, quality tools of course. Talk, talk, talk... Lol sorry about the novel.. Take care
Everyone does not under stand 220 volt. In the United States of America. In England in there house. The only use 220. And that's one wire hot and one wire ground. And that's why when you go to England you phone chargers have to be. Rated for 240 volts to keep from burning up you phone charger. Say this I know some dumbass is saying this oh he don't know. Well lady's and gentlemen. I do know voltage is different all over the world . I am a journeyman electrician. And have experience from electricity all over the world. In Canada they use 347 volt. Germany industry voltages use 400 volt. Home depot bought a bunch of thankless water heaters and almost lost there ass because the purchase clerk for homedepot did not know the difference. So we can recap 220 is one wire has 220 volts and the other one is a ground. I'm sure none of you are understanding what I'm saying but that's why you hire electrician instead of trying to talk about something you really don't comprehend
Why in the world are you using stranded wire? All should be solid wire! Just saying.
Where in the NEC does it say that?
@@BariumCobaltNitrog3n It doesn't. Stranded is typical in commercial work with conduit/raceways.
@@barryomahony4983 My point exactly.
There is not united electrical code in United states ?!!!! got to shitting me ? Do you have licensed electricians?
I believe there is a national code called NFPA 70 but there's additional local/state codes depending on where ypu live and also if it's residential or commercial.
There are national standards, local codes, and inspections, as well as Licensing. I do not believe there are any states that do not require that.
@@katzmosestools NFPA70e pertains to electrical safety. the NEC (National Electric Code) is the codebook the USA uses. There are a lot of instances in the codebook where it says "AHJ" Which means, Authority having jurisdiction. And that's where the local codes come into play.
Most of the time, stick to the NEC and you'll be golden.
Source: Am commercial electrician in Pennsylvania. IBEW L.U. 5
Jeez pal, talk about jumping to conclusions. Lol.
@@RB-vr7mq Pennsylvania does not require electricians to be licensed.
why do you guys talk so fast