How To Install A 240V Outlet In Garage - EV Car Charger, Welder, And Electric Range (Hubbell 14 50)
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- čas přidán 30. 06. 2024
- In this video, I show you how to install a 240 volt outlet in a garage. This 240 volt outlet is also known as the 220 volt outlet for charging an EV car charger, welder, or even an electric range oven. A EV charger requires a 14 50 for a 50 amp outlet. I compare the Hubble 14-50 vs the Leviton 14 50 outlet. #electrical #tesla #diy
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Timestamps
Intro 00:00
NEMA Outlets Explained 00:28
240 Volt Supplies 04:14
6/3 Wire Rough In 06:53
Metal Electrical Box Installation 08:13
NEMA 14-50 Outlet Options 11:10
240V Outlet Installation 14:45
Connecting 6/3 Wire To Panel 21:04
50 AMP Breaker Installation 24:37
240V EV Car Charging 27:38
Disclaimer: This video is all based on my personal opinion and is for entertainment purposes ONLY. I am not a financial advisor, CPA, attorney, tax advisor, electrician, plumber, housing contractor, designer, or any type of profession to give advice. I am just a consumer sharing my experiences and research. If you do need knowledge for those types of things, I will advise you to seek help for those professionals. - Jak na to + styl
Hey! I covered A LOT of information in this video, so I placed timestamps below to help you navigate this video. Also, you can join the channel using this link czcams.com/channels/UJXaEduMHGB3Iap3DusmAA.htmljoin . We would love to have you as member!
NEMA Outlets Explained 00:28
240 Volt Supplies 04:14
6/3 Wire Rough In 06:53
Metal Electrical Box Installation 08:13
NEMA 14-50 Outlet Options 11:10
240V Outlet Installation 14:45
Connecting 6/3 Wire To Panel 21:04
50 AMP Breaker Installation 24:37
240V EV Car Charging 27:38
Which one is needed for split air heat pump that says it needs 220V? Eg LG?
Can I use a 2/0 2/0 2/0 wire to run a range or stove
Where is the Ground Fault protection ?
Don’t wrap your ground counter-clockwise like he did in this video. If you watch closely as he tightens the ground screw it pushes the wire out of the screw. ALWAYS go clockwise when you wrap your wires. This goes for receptacles, and literally everything you wire.
Very true, I was about to say something about that as well.
Yep.... one of the first things pointed out to me when first learning to wire recepticles
If you noticed, it's a loop, not a hook. Therefore, it's "wrapped" in both directions. Even if he wrapped it the other way to make the loop, it would be the same U shape around the ground screw. Think about the physics. What he did is just fine. The only difference is which side of the loop gets wound tighter and which side gets loosened slightly. You could argue it's slightly better to have the length going to the receptacle tighter because it's going to get moved around, but in practice it will likely have the same impact either way.
Or use the pre-made ground tail and "pigtail" your grounds together
@@802Garage Bullshit. As the faster tightens it naturally unwinds the loop. Any movement has the wire detach.The terminal is of such poor design, having no means of restraining wire moving from under the fastener.
Every trade qualified professional electrician knows this... yet you think it's all A-OK.
I really appreciate how thorough you describe each step. Your a great instructor. Just what I needed. Shalom
I think this was the clearest, well explained video I've ever seen on CZcams. Keep it up. Thanks!
A VERY CLEAR demonstration video! Good job! The only omission, however, is that the 2-pole breaker MUST be a GFCI-type breaker per NEC® 210.8(A)(2) and 625.22. Any personnel protection against ground faults internal to the EVSE protects SOLELY the EVSE OUTPUT CORD to the EV but NOT the EVSE INPUT CORD from the NEMA 14-50R receptacle to the EVSE. (Technically that GFCI-type breaker would eliminate the need for refund GFCI protection integral to the EVSE UNLESS the EVSE performs power conversion [nearly all DO NOT convert]).
- Brian Rock, Hubbell Incorporated,
I also serve as a CMP-2 and a CMP-15 Member but this is strictly my own position (not NEMA’s and not NFPA’s)
I also am one of the 7 co-authors of the original (1996) NEC® Article 625 for Electrical Power Research Institute (EPRI).
Brian, I'm in the middle of wiring my detached garage right now, and am having some trouble figuring this one out. It seems that the manufacturer specifies NOT to use a GFCI outlet for an EVSE 40 amp charger (50 amp breaker), and that the EVSE has GFCI built in. That said, I note your comment above regarding input/output. My issue here is that these chargers are known to trip a GFCI outlet or breaker, much like a tredmill does. What is the work around here in order to have a reliable appliance and meet code? My charger is corded - specifically a JuiceBox Pro 40 model and I id wire it into a external waterproof housing containing the NEMA 14-50.
For that matter - any recommendation for wiring in a treadmill in a detached garage as well? I plan to dedicate an outlet for this and wiring it straight to the panel on a non-GFCI/AFCI breaker.
Any suggestions?
Nice job. In reference to the outlet placement for stoves, I recommend reviewing the stove install instructions. There is normally a diagram for the placement for the outlet. I really enjoy your channel.
On that ground wire I usually bend it in a u-shaped so there's more surface, and that 75 inch pounds. Which calculates into 6 foot pounds.
Another video where you show what an excellent instructor you are Jost. Lots of detail, clear explanations but yet you keep it moving. I will say that in the elec business a 50A range outlet is x dollars but if you say it''s for an EV it always seems to be 2x dollars lol. Good explanation of why an industrial grade plug is worth the extra money. Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge!
I’ll give him credit for that. It’s worth the extra money for quality plugs.
Dude you just saved/made me thousands of dollars you are the MAN.
Awesome! I’m glad I can help. Good luck with the rest of your projects!
As a self-proclaimed CZcams electrician 😥, that's the 1st time I've heard about wiggling stranded wire then re-torquing the screws. Thanks for that! I've wired a hot tub, pool heat pump and an EV charger. After seeing this video, I'm definitely going back to verify those screw torques.
I also originally cheaped out and installed the Levitron 14-50 receptacle. I had a 2nd EV charging cable available which I solely used for this plug thinking as I won't be unplugging/re-plugging the charger daily it should be fine. However, the cheaper quality receptacle got significantly hotter when charging at 32A, so I'd end up reducing the current to prevent over-heating. Bought the Hubbell receptacle soon afterwards and haven't had the same issue again.
Great detailed video. Cheers!
I just want to caution everyone that using NM cable for this circuit limits you to the 60 degree column for Ampacity (NEC 334.80), that's 55A here. Furthermore, maximum current based on a continuous load should be no more than 40A's on this circuit since 125% x 40 = 50A. Therefore, never plug a 48A smart charger into this receptacle as some homeowners down the road may do and perhaps label the receptacle to say 40A MAX if you are going to use these 32A mobile charging cords. Note: even if you use 6AWG THHN rated at 90 degrees, your receptacle can only be used for less than 50 Amps. For me personally, I don't even install receptacles anymore for EV's, as they were just never designed for these high and continuous loads over periods of 8 hours or more. Also consider the constant unplugging and plugging in at the receptacle; your terminals will be lose in no time with a chance for arcing and a fire very high. Buy a hardwired smart charger instead and have it installed by a licensed and insured professional!
"Also consider the constant unplugging and plugging in at the receptacle" Good guidance however this part wouldn't happen as the charger would get plugged into the outlet and left there. No different than a dryer or other appliance.
The ev chargers are 240 volt, no neutral necessary. They also are required to be gfci protected
Great video. One of the best I've seen. Just call it 240v. In 38 years I've never measured 110v or 220v. All voltage is nominal from the power company, but they have been supplying higher voltages for my entire life
Exactly! I'm tired of people still using the terms 110v/220v, when it doesn't exist and hasn't for a whole lot of decades.
Excellent step by step explanations and instructions. Thank you!
You make great videos man, highly informative and easy to understand. Greatly appreciate you doing the work and teaching the rest of us. Keep up the great work bro 👍🏻
Your videos are always helpful. Thank you very much!
Fantastic! You are very welcome. I appreciate you watching my videos!
Great stuff as always!! Thanks brother 🤙
Thanks a lot for tuning into the new video! You are welcome. Take care!
Brilliant! Great information, and the clarity of the instructions is superb. Thank you for this video!!!!
Excellent presentation by the Excellent Laborer!
Thank you so much! I’ll try to make all of my videos, helpful and useful. I appreciate you watching.
I'm by no means an electrician, but have Don electrical work and taught by some great electricians. I was always taught when tightening wires against a box to route the wire in the same direction the wire tightens. That way the screw doesn't push the wire out, it draws it in. Use wire strippers not knives especially razor blades. When tightening lugs, tighten, back of, tighten, back off then torque. Also anytime adding new wire to a panel to kill main power. The person who taught me had a saying. The day you get complacent is the day you will get hurt or killed.
" I was always taught when tightening wires against a box to route the wire in the same direction the wire tightens" - When the wire is completely looped IE: out of cable, around screw, then into receptacle... it doesn't matter. Looping clockwise only matters on an open ended (cut) "hook" loop of wire.
or get the proper PPE, tho turning off breaker is cheaper.
Great Video. Well spoken and informative. Thanks for sharing as I enjoyed it very much.
13:30 Like you said not all NEMA 14-50 outlets are the same, I would add that the duty cycle of an EV charger can be drawing 50 amps continuously where a standard range outlet was designed to handle the intermittent duty cycle of a range.
Yes, good point! The long term continuous draw justifies having an industrial grade outlet versus a range outlet. Thanks for your input!
I installed mine the same way with the same receptical concerns. I also under sized my load to 40 amps because I was concerned about heat created by impedence with such a continuous draw over a 2-3 hour period. I used romex 6/3 due to electrical code but I think that other cables may be better at heat dissipation.
Great job. Appreciate the overview and detail
You explained everything so well. Excellent video.
Man thank you!! This was very informative and helpful! Exactly what I needed!! 💯
Good for you for grounding the outlet box. Too many CZcams experts fail to do that.
I always ground my metal boxes. Thanks!
Yes, but he ran the wirec ounterclockwise around the screw. Much more likely to work loose.
Production quality on your videos, your instruction, your concise communication and your overall knowledge are all very impressive.
I'm going for a career change at 32, and have been watching all of your electrical videos ahead of getting an apprenticeship.
Thanks a ton for these
Great video u literally walked thru every step very helpful
Josh, excellent descriptive YT video on installing a 50 amp outlet for a EV charger. I would let the viewers know that the 6 nomenclature on the 6-3 wire stands for the AWG or gauge of wire needed to withstand the 50 amp current draw.
Thanks a lot, Dan! I did explain what AWG was in my last video. You’re right, I would have not heard to mention it again. Thanks for watching!
Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!
Excellent I’m glad the video was helpful for you! Thanks for watching!
Also, if you have side cutters or really your strippers, you can score the romex and rip it without damaging the wires, you get a much cleaner look in your panel. Strip your wires before going into the panel.
What a great set of instructional videos. Very easy to follow.
I make all of my videos straight to the point and step-by-step. I’m glad you found them helpful. Good luck with your project!
Excellent information and instruction. Thank you!
your videos are so well done and informational. Keep up the great job!
thanks for the awesome video , very thorough and simple!!!!
I have watched A LOT of these tutorials and done A TON of research into the actual code provisions pertaining to 240V receptacle installs. This is the first video I can point to that is essentially mistake and code violation free. The only exception being GFCI protection, but we all understand why you didn't go that route, hahaha. Awesome job! Will be my go to video to share with others looking for good info.
I always try to make my videos as accurate as possible. I’m glad you enjoyed this installation. Thanks for watching!
Your wrong about the "mistake free" content here.
@@BTW... Point out the mistake then or your comment is completely worthless.
Clearly it is more than just meeting code. See my post on the use of the knife to strip the wires.
@@deang5622 I'm not going to go through the entire comments section to find your specific post. If your biggest issue with this video is how he strips off the wire sheathing, I rest my case. You'd be friggin' amazed to see how many electricians do it. 99% of DIY people watching this video are not going to have Romex strippers. This is one of the best and most complete videos on the topic for sure. You can find something wrong with anything if you try hard enough. Nobody is going to have every single piece of information perfect and give every piece of advice possible.
Nice explanation. Thanks I just learned, how to wire a 240..
Your videos are amazing, awesome content.
Thank you so much! I appreciate all my subscribers as well. Take care!
Excellent video and explanations. Technically you installed a 120/240 volt outlet. For those that do not want to spend $90 for the receptacle, Bryant (owned by Hubbell) same exact device is approximately half price. Why cheaper? If Hubbell can get named in the specifications for a large project, then higher profit. They bought Bridgeport out in 1991 which makes the Bryant devices. Never use cheap receptacles for car chargers. They overheat.
they did not buy bridgeport. bryant was located in bpt ct
Great Video and information . Thank you for sharing
I'm now gonna like this video because it was detailed and informative
Awesome installation covers everything
Great video! Thanks for sharing 😊
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Super great video. Thanks a lot.
Thank you very much for this. saved me a lot of money
Thx. 29:49 was very helpful with all the supplies needed. No sure of the length of the 6'3 wire that I need
Your description should had said how to Install a 120/240 EV Charging circuit. In most units the neutral Is not needed but good to have for future use.
Muchas gracias siempre veo tus videos.saludos from Norwalk california.
Very helpful video. Thank you for sharing.👍
You are welcome!
Extremely well done!
Thank you for your knowledge. I wish I could worK
with you and learn all you know.
You are welcome. I’m glad you’re finding my content helpful. I make videos on everything I do DIY. If you watch my videos, you’ll learn most of everything I know. Stay tuned for more!
Excellent job on this video!
Excellent. Thank you for lending your genius.
Great Video new subscriber from San Diego
Recent code revisions require GFCI outdoor or in garages above 20A but that is only for branch circuits (welder, range, EV charger) but it is not allowed on feeder circuits (RV outlet--anything with a subpanel). The same 14-50P could be either.
Awesome and detailed video as always Josh. Thanks a lot. Was going through your kitchen cabinets video recently and have a question. What is their material ? (MDF/Plywood/Chipboard/Solid wood etc.)
Thank you Fantastic video.
GREAT VIDEO! THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!
Thanks God bless outstanding work.Bottom line.
Thank You. very helpful.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Great job 👍👍 thank you 👍
You are very welcome.I appreciate the compliment!
Hey, thanks for the shoutout ⚡We make home charging simple and easy for every EV!
Excellent video instruction of how to rough-in and install a 240 v outlet. This was extremely thorough and very concise. I feel confident that I could now undertake this work on my own.
The only two questions I still have are;
1). What size mudring should be used depending on the thickness of the drywall? and
2). Why not use a two gang box to eliminate the need for the mudring?
I think part of the answer is what you said about the mudring providing more room in the ox. I get that there is only one device and not two switches or outlets that would require a two gang box but the two gang has the four ears or tabs you'd need to secure the device to the box. Is this just a preference thing or is there another reason for this?
These are sincere questions. I'm not being critical. I know enough to be dangerous and just like to have all of the information before undertaking work. Either way, I'm going to follow your lead thinking that if it's good for your house... then, it's good for mine. I'm asking in the event you respond before I've started / completed the work.
Thanks in advance and all the best to you. Keep up the good work. 👍
Just learned a new skill. Thank you and you earned yourself a sub and a thank you.
Just to be clear, Torque specs are in inch pounds not foot lbs. Also, it's best practice to use a proper wire stripper instead of a razor blade, that way you won't risk nicking the conductor with the razor blade.
As an Automotive Technician I noticed that mistake too. Inch pounds and Foot pounds are two different tightening specifications.
Newton-meters, too. And in my industry (aviation), there are approved wire strippers that must be used to avoid the likelihood of a violation. I'm surprised how many youtube experts use what would be unapproved tools to strip and crimp wires. Those tools are not excessively expensive, and with them it's almost impossible to harm the wiring or make a connection that is subject to loosening and arcing/catching fire. . .if it's good for a Boeing it's great for my house and vehicle.
I thought that was weird too, coming from an electrician. No way you can get 75 foot pounds of torque with torque screwdriver.
@@Resist4 he didn't say "Foot" or "Inch," just "Pounds," which is meaningless measuring torque. However, given that size torque driver, I'd assume it's an inch-lb device.
@@paulcrumley9756 True, but since this was a how to video he should have not just said pounds.
I thought the video was well done. You were precise and step by step. Sure, you always wrap a wire the way the screw screws in and I usually use a wire stripper in stead of a utility knife to strip the casing but still a well done video. Thanks.
The best tutorial ever.
The yinzer accent is pristine. Feels like home. 😉
Excellent video, man.
thanks for sharing this video
Excellent video and presentation!
I’m really glad to hear this. Thanks a lot!
Very well explained
Thank you, Greg!
Great job.
Great job on the video, I learned a lot!!!
That’s awesome to hear. Good luck with your project!
Thanks Josh another great video. Just want to know if you have the link for the torque screwdriver? 👍
Thanks for your channel
❤it man u are a LIFE SAVER.JYST BOUGHT A HSE AND MAN THEY DUD A $,U AND AVE SAVED ME THOUSANDS. AND YES MY POPS INSPECTOR....COOL BROTHER U KEEP TEACHING ME.THAN KG S AGAIN. ❤IT
Thank you!
You are welcome!
Nice explanation
Thanks for the great video @theexcellentlaborer
In my main panel there is only ONE bar, don’t have separate for ground and neutral. Can I connect both the wires on this single bar at random empty space? Please guide. Thanks
Excellent.
I appreciate that!
Thank you for the video. Can you provide the link to the cover at 5:38 what will work on the Hubbell 14-50 Outlet?
Great! Much thanks.
I have a wood lathe that runs on 220v. I have moved it to a better location in shop, unfortunately the power cable will not reach it now. The lathe now is 6fr from the existing outlet. Can I daisy chain from the existing location to the new receptacle or home run from power panel. I never run any of my 220v machines at the same time. I would appreciate your thought, and I am a new subscriber…. Enjoy your excellent videos
For a range, it is probably better to install under 8 inches to accommodate for standard or short drawer space -- that is the space behind the drawer that provides space for the plug. You might want to face the ground towards left or right -- some cords have the ground up and some have the ground down, and you want the loop to slide back in easy.
Excellent video. Would you mind sharing which torque screwdriver you used in this video? I did not see it mentioned in the list of tools used in this video. Thank you. Also, did you really torque the screws to 75 in-lbs?
Thank you! I’m not sure the exact brand of the screwdriver because I borrowed it from a friend for this install. I had the dial pass 70 to get the torque which should be around 75 lbs. I hope that helps!
Thank you for the great video! I just have a concern about the Leviton 14-50 Plug used. I keep seeing vidoes of how bad of a plug it is and it causes fires. A lot of folks including Tesla is saying to use Hubbel or a Bryant Plugs instead. I just wanted to get you thoughts on it.
Nice job hard worker
Thank you for the nice compliment!
@@TheExcellentLaborer your welcome your nice guy
Don't forget follow local NEC codes where gfci and arcfault protection may be required
Great information video. I notice 1 mistake and that was you installed the 3/4 cable clamp backward. The screws for the clamp has to be inside the box. This is because incase in future they need to get more wire inside box on a finished wall they can loosen the screws and pull some wire inside the box.
Wrong. Two screw connectors should have the screws on outside of the box. Don't think inspectors like your way. With NMB cable stapled within 12" of a box next to impossible to pull in more wire.
@@JohnThomas-lq5qp lol please dont make things up out of the blue. This has nothing to do with the inspector, this is about the design engineering and proper function. First of all it doesnt matter what inspector likes or doesnt like. As per code, a cable must be secured to the box by the method the manufacturer of device/fastener has specified. 2nd of all, USUALLY (but not a requirement), a GOOD electrician will leave a slack of wire in the form of S between the box and the staple. A house lives for 100 years and during this time if someone mess up wires when connecting the devices, they'd have the option to pull in some slack into the box.
A good example of this is the plastic push-in connectors for NMD wires where you can pull wires into box but not out.
2nd example is the regular NMD respectable boxes with the screw inside the box to secure the cable.
Did you ever have a job inspected? The inspector or AHJ has the final say. With 12/2 costing what a $1 a foot a little over a year ago no electrician will install stupid money wasting S bends for cables entering a box. The NEC mandates a support within 12" of boxes feed with NMB cable so that makes it very difficult to make a S bend and provide the 12" support. Metal box manufacturers never supplied type of connector to be used in their boxes. There are over a quarter Millon words in the NEC and hundreds of exceptions to all of the articles and like I have been told at the over 100 continuing education classes that I attended to renew my electrical license is if you ask 3 inspectors you might get 4 answers. The few times that I objected to an hick prima Donna only inspector in a little town that attempted to write me up for code violations I won out. Best was after my inspector passed a job local hick tried to I give me a violation for making a single splice on a 14 gauge wire inside if a circuit breaker panel. After I gave him the NEC article that allows it told me that he would let me get away with it that time. After many years still learning.
@@JohnThomas-lq5qp I do agree with you... with the copper prices after Covid no one is doing that S thing anymore. I learned that when I was a kid doing construction jobs here and there. But we do electrical cabinets for manufacturing segments. Complying with residential codes is child's play compare to industrial codes and regulations. I personally done 2 full basements and 3 house renovations jobs so far... maybe I was lucky I haven't had a jerk for a inspector... and yes like you said there been time when the inspector has said "you can't do this" and I told him yes I can and here's what the code says and then he would ok ok fine but I wouldnt do it like that... and moved on to the next item... inspectors just verify your are up to the code and if your are then it doesn't matter what he personally feels about your job.
What led me to this video was out of frustration in fitting a 14-50 receptacle in a 2-gang box. Usually a 4-11/16 box is used like the oven. But I wanted to minimize the drywall damage in the already finished garage and the fact that the receptacle bag said use a 2-gang box. Now when I was trying to wire 6/3 cable to it and intall it, the receptacle plate bent. So I wanted to see how others do this 😅. Anyways I cut the wires much shorter and pre bent wires and that still was hard to install but it went in fine.
Thank you for sharing. Getting ready to install 14-30 generator inlet and process will be similar.
You are welcome! Oh yeah, definitely similar. Good luck with your project!
I am now gonna give u 5 ⭐️ for this video
Josh, you do a good job with your videos. On this one, i would like to stress several things.
Since this is a subpanel install, the entire panel can be deenergized at the main panel. This should leave zero power in the panel. Yypu did what i would do, but like you i have a high electrical comfort level.
You did this but did not stress it.....connect away from the panel first. This prevents anyone "helping" from powering the wires in your hand if they are not connected in the panel yet.
Connecting the wires ground first, then neutral, then hots provides a small level of safety and is a prefered connection order.
I will reference the 2020 code. Yes it updates every 3 years, so your jurisdiction may be several cycles behind and some requirements may not apply to your jurisdiction.
Section 90.4 allows your local jurisdiction to accept all, some, or none, of the code. They can change requirements as they deem needed.
Section 110.14. C. Electrical connections, temperature limits. Puts breakers 100 amps or less at the 60 °c rating for wire current unless the breaker is marked differently. This means the wire you use is rated under the 60° c column of the ampacity chart.(310.16). Yes, thhn is rated at the same as romex. The #6 copper wire is rated at 55 amps, not the thhn rating of 75 amps.
210.8 (A) gfci protection for dwelling units has upped the voltage to 250 volts or less receptacles require gfci protection when in garages, laundry areas and accessory building at ground level and not a dwelling. Yes, welder and car receptacles.
314.4 requires metal boxes be grounded.....yes the green screw. Again a safety feature, should the hot wires touch the metal box, it will cause the breaker to trip through the ground wire and prevent the metal plate covering it to be 120 volts.
Now for the scary one. There is a seperate section for car charging (EVSE).section 625 with specific requirement.
625.40 points to one outlet (charger) on one breaker.
625.41 points to the circuit being 125% of the load. 40 amps of charging on a 50 amp circuit.
625.54. This is the gfci protection if you install a receptacle.
This is not a hard install as Josh has shown, just make sure you follow the rules. Good luck.
I was tought too wrap wires clockwise around screws so they stayed tight and didn't spread out. It just works better. Torque is rated in inch or foot pounds. The wire screws are tightened too INCH pounds.
Thanks!
You’re welcome. Thanks a lot for the support!
Very Good.
Thank you!
Really important to overstate that you should only use Hubbell or Bryant receptacles for EV charging.
If your main use is EV charging and/or a welder, a 6-50 will be cheaper to wire. And if you're running conduit, could allow you to downsize or fit more circuits in there.
Also, I think a lot of states have adopted the 2020 code now which requires all receptacles to have GFCI. And depending on the brand, holy are they expensive. Why I went with Siemens stuff, their 2-pole GFCI breakers are usually quite a bit cheaper. That and they're readily available at Menards/HD/Lowes.
2020 code does not require all recpt to be gfci protected
When connecting your ground to the box didn't go in clock wise direction so the wire got loose. Always go clockwise (not counterclockwise) when turning a screw into any wire terminal. In order to ensure the wire got taken not loosed
Thanks for telling me about doing the wiggle Tighten wiggle tighten thing you might just be a lifesaver
I followed the example precisely, testing the outlet with a multimeter revealed 110 volts on both neutral/ground and hot (black or red) independently, and 240 volts across. However, when I plugged in my Tesla mobile connector, it initially seems to receive electricity, but then displays a red 'T'. Any idea what I might be doing wrong
Good job. Love the video. how did you estimate the length of the run so good. You had a drawing to work from or you just use a tape measure and guestimate?
Thanks! I’m glad you love the video. I use a 100 foot tape and then run it where the wire will be installed. I simply just use that measurement to buy the length of wire. I hope that helps!
Thanks for the response. @@TheExcellentLaborer
good job I like it I want to become a teacher like you
The outlet you installed is self grounding, you can see the strip of metal going from the ground terminal to the face plate, so you don't need to connect the ground wire to the grounding screw of the box. That connection is created automatically when the outlet is attached to the box.
Given the Voltage and Amperage at play, even if it isn't a code violation, HIGHLY recommended you ground the receptacle as well as of course the box as required by code.
@@802Garage The box and outlet are already grounded when installed since it's self grounding, which is the shortest path to ground. Adding extra wire does nothing.
@@JRP3 No, the box is not grounded unless the EGC is bonded to the box, which is absolutely required by code unless the box is grounded by EMT conduit grounded at the supply panel. Read NEC 250.148 please. It is also against code to ground the box with the receptacle even if the receptacle has an EGC connected and is self-grounding. This would violate the ground continuity rule. As for doing nothing to bond both, the primary reasons to do so are increased ground capacity, which increases the chances of a circuit breaker trip if there ever is a ground fault, it keeps the receptacle grounded even when removed from the box in case power was accidentally not shut off or there was another wiring fault, it is a more reliable connection than the self-grounding connection in general in terms of clamping force, total area of connection, direct path to ground,orand inability to move, and that leads to the last point which is over time the receptacle could loosen from the box which will decrease the self-grounding contact or eliminate it entirely and it also leaves room for error during install where someone may not tighten the self-grounding receptacle all the way when they are trying to get a tidy flush fit. Bonding the box and the receptacle is common practice for added safety and there is essentially no downside since the required grounding wire is already present and long enough to be used. It also makes sense to use and leave the ground in tact in case a different piece of equipment is later installed in the box which does require a ground.
@@JRP3 Bullshit - What happens when the lid is lifted? Ground is disconnected, you idiot.
So you think a metal strip held by cove plate fasteners (that can come loose or thread strip) is a low impedance path from the Ground terminal of the socket to ground/Earth?