STIHL’S OFFICIAL 2 STROKE CARBURETOR TUNING PROCEDURE.
Vložit
- čas přidán 27. 06. 2024
- Adjusting the carburetor on a 2-stroke engine can seem challenging, but in this video, I'll simplify the process. Whether you're working with Stihl, Honda, Husqvarna, Echo, McCulloch, or any other 2-stroke engine, including 4-mix engines, the adjustment process is virtually the same. By following this step-by-step tutorial, you'll learn to adjust your carburetor with ease, ensuring optimal performance and preventing potential engine damage.
TOOLS USED IN THIS VIDEO:
Engine Tachometer - amzn.to/3TE48GZ
Stens 750-120 Carburetor Adjustment Tools- amzn.to/4atkBV5
TOOLS I USE:
Engine Tachometer - amzn.to/3TE48GZ
Mityvac Pressure & Vacuum Tester - amzn.to/3vysI3V
Gasket Maker - amzn.to/4bIiygR
Vessel Screw Drivers - amzn.to/3ISewG2
Brass Hammer: amzn.to/3xkyuH6
Stanley Stump Vice - amzn.to/3waHuOw
Stens 750-120 Carburetor Adjustment Tools- amzn.to/4atkBV5
Powerbuilt- backtap - amzn.to/49I9305
Forceps - amzn.to/4a2ud9v
Zoom Oil Bottles - amzn.to/3TWZV2t
Mityvac Compression Tester - amzn.to/4aimaFS
Bondhus Hex Keys - amzn.to/3J2m8FL
Klein MM400 multimeter - amzn.to/3PI3Y02
Stahlwille Combination Spanners - amzn.to/3IY6fQI
Milwaukee 12v Impact Driver - amzn.to/3VEuxH4
Milwaukee 12v Impact Wrench - amzn.to/4aPESVd
Milwaukee 12v 90 degree Grinder - amzn.to/4czLiJp
No-spill gas can - amzn.to/3TDfWcb
Any links to products are likely to affiliate links and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases with no additional costs to you. Thank you!
00:00 Stihl's official carburetor tuning and adjustment procedure
00:59 Setting up an engine for carburetor tuning
01:18 Setting your adjustment screws to manual specification
01:41 Warming up a 2 stroke engine for carburetor adjustments
02:10 Setting the carburetor idle screw
02:47 Low speed screw adjustment for 2 stroke carburetor tuning
03:49 Lower engine idle with low speed fuel screw
04:33 High speed carburetor adjustment procedure
#Stihl #husqvarna #carburetor #tuning #enginerepair #stihlcarburetor #walbro
You have a talent for explaining thing's.
Also nice to see someone laughing and smiling as much as you do.
Keep up the good work
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Such a lovely comment, thank you!!!!
I wish you made all the instructional videos that I would ever need. Very well done.
Thank you! :)
Just found your channel and subscribed, you do a great job of explaining how all this stuff works, thanks alot for all you help.
Thank you and welcome :)
Actually this brother is the first one i have heard so far, about how to properly explain the proper tuning of these membranic carburetored engines. Thanks to brother Tom.
Fantastic video! Thank you so much for the great explanations!
You’re very welcome! Glad you enjoyed it :)
Exceptional video mate. Really good work
Thank you :) I’m glad you enjoyed it!!
The critical factor that helped my understanding was to remember that lubrication is mixed with the fuel, so lean delivery is dangerous to the cylinder wall. So, for both H and L, this tuning algorithm is set up up to run a little on the rich side to ensure adequate lubrication and slower rpm. The second point is that when you're on the rich side of the equation, increasing fuel delivery consistently lowers rpm. I love your remark about building in a little reserve to that setting. So, when fuel changes, air filters are clogged, and ambient temp changes you've got reserve that prevents the engine from creeping into that territory of lean cylinder wall damage. I guess this is also why environmentalists don't like 2 strokes, since perfect stoichiometric balance is too close to the threshold of engine damage.
Spot on!! I agree with everything you mentioned here!
😮e🎉
You probably are unaware, that Every piston is cooling (regulating the temperature) with the "vaporisation heat" from the Extra fuel on Top Rpm. So, with that added fuel, you actually Cool the piston, so, that it does Not Overheat and later start even to seize into the cylinder walls , consequently damaging them. And, because of that extra fuel added at max Rpm, the environmentalists don't like the 2 strokers, beside the added oil in the fuel 4 the lubrication.
KTM has been working to keep their 2 stroke bikes compliant in Europe and has gone to fuel injection. Just isn't possible to have a mechanical carb with one setting be able to burn efficiently across so many variables.
For small engines though carbs are cheap, easy, and reliable. Maybe someday we will have some sort of hydrogen burning engine but by then who knows if there will be supercapacitors that run motors with 10x more power than we get out of engines.
Great Vid Tom. Only change I would add is I allow a 5 minute warm up, especially in the winter and in freezing conditions. Also, these mixtures will vary with changes in temperature, humidity, and elevation (0xygen content in the air). Don’t be surprised if you used this procedure on a hot summer day and then in the winter when you want to use the equipment it starts acting funny. Again great content Mate!
Agree re. the warm up mate, though I wanted to share their exact process, they specifically mention the 1 minute varying rpm. My opinion is an engine is best final tuned when fully heat soaked. This can take a good 5 minutes or more of use / fully loaded!
Yes, frequently tuning a 2 stroke is an important part of ownership. I’ll often tweak my carbs each time I take them out, even on the same day!
Hi, Where did you get the Tachometer. Thanks
That's why most every piece of equipment has a choke adjustment. Use that until it heats up and runs well in any weather.
@@jpol3808 Carbs don't run well in any weather. That is why modern engines have gone to systems that can adjust the combustion on the fly. As conditions vary to get the best performance you will need to adjust your carb. Granted on lawn equipment we aren't generally racing them so it doesn't matter much if your conditions aren't changing drastically.
@@NONO-hz4vo Yep your correct. Direct computer controlled fuel injection is the way to go for any condition and any style of driving. Groceries or racing. It handles all situations. I was just helping the guy out with a tip on running his carb equipment on the choke slightly longer in cold weather to richen up the mixture while it's warming up. That saves having to play with the adjuster every time the weather changes on you. Later!
Marvelous video Tom Thanks 🙏
I’m pleased you enjoy it!!
What a great in-depth explanation and attitude. I don't normally sub to people doing random videos ill only need help with for a moment. You are an exception. And to me that is saying something
That’s really awesome, thank you! I hope
you enjoy the future videos I bring out as much :)
Thanks John!!
Good clear concise explanation! Well done! Thanks Ken
Thank you!
Always learning from your channel, thanks Tom. Great content!
Thanks Patrick! :)
Wonderful explanation. Thank you.
You’re welcome :)
A bit overwhelming at first but after a few replays, I was able to get the whole idea. Thank you very much !!
That’s awesome glad you got it :)
Not much use when the engine won't start. I'll save this one in the event I can get to the warm up stage.
No worries :)
Excellent Presentation - thanks
Thanks for watching :)
It can be a little confusing, but you did explain it very well, thank you so much
You’re welcome :)
Thanks for sharing, good stuff
You’re welcome :)
Great video Tom, well done. I guess its easier to explain with a video than over the phone hehe.
Thank you Trains mate :) much appreciated!
Great explanation!
Thanks :)
Thank you. Very good instruction.
Thank you!
Mate that 011 is bloody gorgeous!! Currently rebuilding an 009L and 011AVT myself😊
Awesome mate!! Happy rebuilding :)
Just the information I needed. thanks,
You’re welcome!
Great info Tom mate
Thanks Conk! Great to hear from you mate.
Very helpful and clear thanks👍👍😎
You’re welcome! Glad you enjoyed it :)
That was Excellent! 🙂
Thank you!
Even though I don't own a Stihl, I watched this twice to better understand. This makes a lot of sense now that I understand basics. At some point a similar video for Husky would be more helpful for guys on the other side, ha ha.
Hey! It’s literally identical! It’s the EXACT same process :) I understand it can take a few viewings to get your head around it, but I’m glad it makes sense!
awesome video my brother
Thanks!
Well done Thanks. My saws thank you.
You and your saw are welcome 🤣
Thanks. Good explanation
You’re welcome 👍
Nice one dude/s and many thanks.
You’re welcome!
Thank you so much.
You’re welcome!
got it. Thanks again
Awesome Bruce :)
Very interesting indeed...
Thanks 👍
Hi Tom. A good clean description. Thanks. And yes it did help.
In the absence of anything else, do you use this procedure for other manufactures 2 stroke engines?
Absolutely :) every 2 stroke I work on gets this same principle :)
Gosh Dang - a nice running 2 cycle is a dream - great explanation - you really have to be patient with the adjustments - one screw up and you can kiss your shoulder joint goodbye with endless pulls on that nasty jerky little engine - Back in the 70's there were little 2 cycle snowblowers that would never start - of course our 'schools' were worthless to teach us what you just did and so we could never figure stuff out - all that youthful energy just wasted - Now - I ALWAYS run my engine gas out to keep that carb clean - since these little 2 cycles have little tiny ports that varnish up quite easily
Glad you enjoyed the video and found it useful :)
Another great video. Hope you can do one on the Echo.
Thanks Raymond! This process will work for any 2 stroke ope mate :) just transfer this knowledge to that machine!
Thank you very much
@@VintageEngineRepairs Echo recommends another adjustment procedure. It starts like this: 1. Start and warm engine for 100 seconds alternating
engine speed between WOT and idle every 5 seconds.
Turn H mixture needle anticlockwise until engine
speed drops to approx. 12,500 rpm at WOT.
Would also recommend Tom's 'how to tune a chainsaw' video from July 2021 which follows this procedure, but without the tachometer and with no technical jargon. For me, it is the best tuning video on YT, by a country mile.
Thanks again Tim mate :) much appreciated!
Sure : czcams.com/video/83NF1q0UYPw/video.html
Just tried several videos and this is the one that worked on my 201T and 461R. However, even with my H set all the way counterclockwise I still think my max rpm is a tad high. My Tach was one off of amazon and couldnt get a solid read of the high rpms as it jumps quite a bit past 9000rpm but still seemed a bit high. Either way, thank you a ton for this video as it is the only one that took care of 95% of my issues.
Hey :) you’re welcome! If you have the limiter caps on, you may need to remove them to get enough turns on the fuel screws :) hope this helps!
Nice video Tom. Does this procedure apply to 4-mix engines as well or is it different for them?
Hey Richard, this is only 2 stroke engines rather than Stihl’s 4 mix. Thanks for watching :)
clear as mud
🤣
Great info Tom on a very popular issue! Speaking of Stihl tachometers, mine seams to be acting up. Is there a hack to replace the battery? 😁 I never thought I would have to deal with this! 😭
Hey mate I don’t have the stihl version, but no they’re not replaceable!
@@VintageEngineRepairs bummer thanks though Mate!
I love your videos! I’ve worked on my own small engine all my life. I’d like to get a tachometer like yours but the PET2100DXR is so expensive. The 2000DXR is less than $30. Is it as good? I’m 73 and don’t want to spend over $100
Thanks Paul V
Thank you! Is that the one with a red strip around the face of the tach? If so yes, it’s excellent and for all intents and purposes, it will do everything this one will :)
Great video!
I have one question though, does the same procedure apply to a 4-MIX engine like on the FS130?
I can’t be certain I’m afraid!
Where you get that tach? Everyone ive bought has to wind around plug wire,. Thanks for videos
I brought it online, it’s called an Oppama!
Here in the uk we seem to have some variability in the fuels depending on where you buy from. This variation seems to mean that you can get the tools adjusted right, get another mix of fuel and the tools are difficult to start or die at tickover or tricky to rev up. Have any others found this variation or do most use premium 'proper' petrol (gasoline)? Thanks for some great informative videos.
Yes, I have heard of that before, I’m not surprised to hear it. I’ll often spend 20-30 seconds tuning my machines each time I take them out, though I’m very picky and want them running optimally!
EXCELLENT video and very well articulated. Loved it and it helped me tremendously but I am left with one question!
When adjusting the H RPM of the my 455 Rancher, the specs show…
Maximum power speed 9,000 rpm
Max engine/motor 13,300 rpm
Which value am I supposed to adjust it to (less the 500rpm for safety measures)
Hey the second number (13,300) set it to about 12800 and see how you go :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs thank you
Appreciate your guidance and will try again maybe I’m turning to fast. I don’t have a rpm gauge, did you have a link? The LA screw, didn’t seem to do anything do you screw that in all the way and then out 1 1/4 turns also? How do you know where it should start from or doesn’t it matter? When I quit it wouldn’t stay running also I have replaced the carb.
Set that so it just touches the cam to open the butterfly and then one and 1/4 more :) here is the link to a tach :) amzn.to/3TE48GZ
I use an old Bike shifter lever with cable to control the choke since I live in Northern Ohio where we can have 30 ish F and 90ish F - so I find controlling the choke is nice but not possible with a Back pack blower - so with a Choke control near my hand I can adjust the carb knowing that I can adjust adjust the choke if (in Autumn) we went from 73 degrees Monday to 39 degrees Tuesday -
Very interesting! It’s not an ideal way to do it, best you just tweak the carb with a screw driver and let it breath in the correct amount to get a full cylinder charge :) I will tune my equipment multiple times a day depending on changes in temp or altitude. It’s not really necessary for most people, but I like my engines to run where they are best.
@@VintageEngineRepairs I went on your channel and then saw all the 2 cycle stuff - had I known that I would have kept my caveman method on the down low - For me it's a practical solution and I can just edge that choke controller an itsy bitsy bit to get that blower into some high sonic rev's - but what would be nice as per your advice to properly adjust the needles or to have a servo controlled needle adjuster with an RPM device - oh and also a 'cordless drill' type starter motor for the backpack blowers would be good - thanx for the replys
@TotalFreedomTTT-pk9st haha no not at all, we all do what we want, it just wouldn’t feel right if I didn’t mention a quick tweak is normal and you’re not the only one so don’t feel like you’re doing anything wrong :)
Great video , now I only have one question , where can I buy one of those Tacho's you are using ? How does it work ?
I’d recommend a fast tach, but cheaper, works just fine. This one is unnecessarily expensive
@VintageEngineRepairs I just started scrolling ebay and found one for 40 bucks so thought bugger it I might as well get it . I have 4 carbs to replace on some old equipment of mine so it will see some use . Great video btw , 👌
Brilliant mate........thanks for being so clear and concise. My engine tach has a wire that you wrap around the plug lead. I changed it to a crocodile clip for ease of use. I'm just wondering if this type are as accurate as the ones like yours? Cheers bruv!!
Thanks mate :) yep! Mine does both inductive and wired! Some cheaper brands aren’t as great, but most are still very accurate!
@@VintageEngineRepairs Okay......so do you think adding a crocodile clip to the wire may have affected accuracy? I just thought that winding the wire around a lead was a faff......much easier to clip it on!!
I haven’t found it to make any difference because this tach has excellent inductive pickup, however the cheaper ones do benefit from that!
@@VintageEngineRepairsCould you provide a link to the tachometer you used please & thanks!
@@danielbrown9469 sure :) Engine Tachometer - amzn.to/3TE48GZ
Great video Tom! I understand the process to get L & H screws set, but unless I missed it, I don't recall you saying anything about dialing idle back to spec rpm. Sorry if this is obvious, but should idle be left at spec + 500 after H screw is set, or does it then get reset to spec rpm with idle screw?
Hey :) I covered it haha, when you find fastest rpm on L and it stays at spec + 500, then richen it by 500rpm with L. Thanks for watching and commenting :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs- my apologies for not following close enough - thanks for the lightning fast reply!
Interesting! However, I cannot find this info in any Stihl publication or manual?
You’re not looking in the right places haha :)
What tachometer was that very useful I could use one for sure
Here you go :) Engine Tachometer - amzn.to/3TE48GZ
Thx
a stihl bg50 has limiter caps, where does stihl have the oem settings at before the caps are installed? or do they have a spec where the L and H screw are installed before adjustments starts before the limiters are pushed on, I do not have a service manual to look this up, thank you
I’m not sure I’m afraid! Do a quick google search :)
Does your tachometer work purely on sound with no leads to spark plug cable etc?
I’ve been struggling to find one of these got a link for one?
Hey mate yes it’s inductive :) here is a similar one to what I use, just way cheaper. The only
difference is this one doesn’t do quite as many cylinders - totally unnecessary for any ope! Save your money! Engine Tachometer - amzn.to/3TE48GZ just for full transparency this is an Amazon affiliate link - I may earn a small amount from qualifying purchases :)
Does this also apply to the Stihl 4-mix carb?
Yes it does :),
I tune by ear free spinning and then tweak it under load, and it always ends up being a little rich without load. That's my target. People talk about altitude and temp quite a bit, but it's going to be a rare case where they take it out of the climate they bought it in. Nobody goes on a world tour and buys a chainsaw as a souvenir. 🤣
Most people here cut their firewood when its 70-90 degrees out but when winter hits and its 0 degrees out and they need a few logs cut they expect it to run exactly like it did in the warm weather and it won't.
Bill a trimmer I can see as you wont use it in the winter but Tom used a chainsaw as an example. Also I use a handheld leaf blower to blow snow off the cars in the winter and I have to tweak the mixture a little when the seasons change.
@@KensSmallEngineRepair Agree there Kenny.
On my STIHL BG 56C Air Blower, I have a problem starting it. I have to push the carburetor bubble about 50 to 100 times before it will get gas inside the bubble then it will start. I have replaced just about everything and no luck on starting it normally.
What should I do ?
Likely either the celerator pump, main nozzle check valve or if the carb has a part load fixed jet check valve that maybe leaking too.
What is the minimum compression a stihl FS55 trimmer should have to operate?
About 130 psi, below that it may struggle to start. You must use a small engine compression gauge though, an automotive one won’t be suitable.
Top
Thanks 👍
Great Video. I have a SH55 blower and I see the idle rpm is 2800, but there is no max rpm in the manual or online for that matter. Would you know what the max rpm should be? Thanks for sharing.
Interestingly enough, they don’t give a max rpm, not sure why. Set it to max rpm, then back it off 1/8 of a turn.,
Thanks very much, have a great day.
I just got around to adjusting the carb and no matter what I did I couldn't adjust it properly. Could be because its a Chinese carb. I have ordered another carb, let see what happens.@@robsteinhaur221
Can you tell me how to set up the tacho in your video. I’m struggling with the enclosed instructions. Many thanks. Good video
Sure, what tach are you using? I only have two, both you just put near the engine and they fire right up.
It’s the PET-2000DXR. If I press the mode it shows 0 min. If I press and hold mode it shows 7760 rpm. Should I see P21:42 ? Many thanks
@@grahamjones4294 yes you want 21:42. Keep pressing the mode button until you get to the screen that starts with a capitol letter “P” followed by numbers. When you get to that screen, press the set button until you get 21:42. Then you can just leave it alone. Bring it next to an engine and it will register both 2 and 4 stroke engines that fire every revolution (all single cylinder ope)
Sorry to be a total idiot but do I hold the mode button down or continually click it. I either get 0mins if I click or 7760rpm if I hold the button down.
@grahamjones4294 keep clicking it to cycle through the settingd
thanks. I will now run them a bit richer and slower.
You’re welcome 👍
@Tom
I think your video was good but needed to be watched several times. Your chapter settings really help.
I got confused by your different terms and the way you changed between them when you speak. Though you can get it from the video, you use a lot of terms interchangeably without realising it because you are experienced.
It may be better to give a list of the different terms at the outset and then just use one term in the description of what you are doing in terms of names for the screws, speeds and alteration of the screws (clockwise[right,turn it in, lean it out], anticlockwise). Meant to be constructive as your video is good, but could just be a bit easier for certainly me to understand if you used less terms and maybe set out the alternative terms at the start
Hey! Thanks so much for the great feedback. I couldn’t agree more and you won’t see a recent video of mine like this one. Now days I plan all my tutorial videos out in a scrip so nothing gets missed or miss communicated! Thanks again :)
Can you add a link to the tachometer you are using please
Although I don’t have a link, it’s an Oppama 2100DXR
I have a question. A lot of Stihl equipment has an idle range like 2,800-3,200. Which number do you choose? 2,800 or 3,200?
Hey! It’s engine dependant; as mentioned in the video. Your service manual will state what rpm it should idle at. Thanks for watching!
What I worry about using break fluid to soften rubber is how long will it stay soft once exposed to gas. Nags has a tendency to harden rubber and I think it will get hard, again, in short order. This is why I replace diaphragms instead of trying to rejuvenate them. I do not like to have to go back in a carb, again, for the same reason. A fools errand.
Would you reccomend doing this without a tachometer? just by 'feel'? Cant afford the £150 for a tach right now. Many thanks for the informative and easy to follow video btw.
Hey, yes, I go by ear most of the time and just confirm with a tach, but I only recommend it if you know what you’re listening for. Otherwise you’ll likely cause yourself problems!
I hope the initiator will not be upset, I recently bought Oppama Pet 304 for 45 euros with all taxes included. And it's OE.
I feel - there are no chances of it being a perfect adjustment.
Hang on now... there is no way you can do this stihl method without measuring rpms. No one can know what 3000 rpms sound like. It's the target point... you can't know if you are too high or too low without a tach
@@PopaAlexandru. nice! Yep you can get cheap and expensive Oppama tachs!
@@normanbfifteen3468 by ear, when you know how, is far more accurate than shooting for numbers, every engine is different, even if it’s the same model, numbers are an accpectable range to be in. Using your ears you can tell exactly how the engine is running and where it’s happy. The spec rpm’s are a rough guide acrosss the board, for a brand new, non broken in engine with good soft diaphragms, clean filters, sharp chain etc and will be fine, but as an engine wears in, filters may be a bit blocked, the chains not quite as sharp etc, being able to adjust an engine based on how it sounds is really the best method. Also, I can be almost if not, spot on by sound. Just like you know when your car is at 2,000 rpm, 3,000 rpm etc, you build up an audible “picture”. Just like you know when to change gears, you don’t look at the rev counter; you KNOW when the engine wants to change. It’s a similar principle here with these engines.
Found you looking for a solution to a chain saw problem. I have a Stihl 032 AV that I have owned since new. The trouble I’m having is that it will start and idle fine but bogs down and stalls when I pull the trigger. Fuel is new and I don’t see any obvious holes in the fuel line or pulse line, fuel filter is new. There isn’t a spark arrester just a muffler. The only work I have ever done on this saw is a carburetor rebuild kit a couple of years ago. The saw was running strong up to a few weeks ago. Any thoughts?
Hey, could be many things, but essentially it’s lean on the progressive idle drillings. Try opening the low screw 1/4 of a turn (you may have to turn the idle screw in to compensate and bring the revs up).
@@VintageEngineRepairs thanks, I’ll give that a try.
@@VintageEngineRepairs that worked well! It now runs and cuts but still has some power issue. I can tell it isn’t putting out all the horsepower it used to and will stall now in hardwood like walnut.
@@54lespaul77 in that case, if it’s stalling at full rpm, open the H screw 1/4 of a turn
👍
👍
I have a Stihl KM-56 Trimmer. It has spark, new tune-up kit and carburetor. All fuel lines and tank vent line were tested. Muffler and spark arrestor screen clear and clean. Compression test and pressure test all passed. Stihl won't start! I'm confused! What could be a possible issue? Thanks and I have learned so much from your great videos!!
Hey :) I’d recommend putting a teaspoon full of gas and 2 stroke mix directly into the throat of the carburettor. Then make sure choke is off, ignition on, go full throttle, and pull the cord a number of times. Let me know if it starts, runs then stops after a few seconds :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs I will try that at work tomorrow- Will let you know. Thank you! :)
@ninagamble9150 no worries :)
Do this for sthil 220 i dont have device for checking rpm
Video will drop soon on tuning a weed eater by ear.
Any adjustment on my ms170?
Thanks
You have an air bleed screw, but that’s it and I haven’t found that to make any notable difference! I believe stihl call it their BIS system. My advise, google - “wt215 carb swap ms 180” (same applies for 170 but I believe it was just shown in an ms180)
Where did you get that tach. The one from Stihl is close to $100
Hey :) this is more expensive than stihls tach, this one is about $350 Australian dollars. It’s called a pet2100DXR. I have heard the tiny tach or fast tach are quite good and are cheaper :)
I set every two stroke carb to 1.5 turns out on both jets. This should get the piece of equipment running and I tune it from there. I warm them up for five minutes before adjusting the jets.
Worth noting, the engine will be just as hot at 60 seconds as it will be at 5 mins UNLESS you’re actually putting the engine under load. If you’re just letting it idle and gently blipping the throttle a few times every so often for 5 mins you’re wasting your time. It’s not until you are actually using the engine under load that it’s going to get hotter. Air cooled engines heat very quickly.
@@VintageEngineRepairs that is what the Husqvarna Service Manual says. I do not know what the Stihl Service Manual say, so I go along with what Husqvarna said. I looked over the Instruction
Manual for the 021, yesterday, and Stihl does not provide an RPM for idle or Max rpm, so I will go along with what I know. I figure 2,700 and 13,000. What do you think. A lot of their saws list 13,500 for max rpm, but I never figure that high. I had a brand new MS 170 that was turning 14,500 but not any more. I richened it up to 13,000 and change. They say you cannot adjust the H on theses saws, horse crap h- you can. There is a very small torx socket in the H jet. I just richened mine up a 1/4 turn, down to 13,020. I could have turned it out a bit more but left it where it was. 13,020 is not alarmingly fast to me.
All good, we all have our ways of doing things. The 021 is 2,800 / 11,500. Thanks.
@@VintageEngineRepairs I haven’t thrown the tach on the 021, yet, but will keep those figures in mind. It’s has new bearings, seals, piston and cylinder on it. I wait until things get broken in before
I set the carb. It has a nice little four stroke on it, now, so it is ok. 11,500 is kind of low for a Stihl. My 260P will turn 13,500 easy. I am not worried about it turning to high an rpm with a 18” .325 chain on it. What I like about it is it’s easy of starting - 2,1P every time. Three pulls and your going is great for a Stihl saw. I can’t wait to see how it acts in real cold weather.
This is a good video but I have one problem with their recommendation. Lets say desired speed is 10,000 and the tach shows 9,000 because they already have it so lean it won't reach 10K. Now they turn the screw in to lean it out and raise rpm but don't get the desired results. At least with the low speed you find the sweet spot and adjust from there. I don't like recommendations that just have you read a tach because the magic number your looking for occurrs twice-once on the lean side of the hump and once on the rich side. Does this make sense?
Hey Scott! I must admit I have never had a 2 stroke that I couldn’t reach their max rpm on the H screw? Maybe I’m miss understanding your comment?
There are a few changes I personally make to their lean drop off tuning procedure, but for continuity of the process I didn’t add in any of my own preferences on this vid 😂
Edit:
Ahhh I think I understand you!! Yes, if you go too lean you’ll eventually hit that number again. I haven’t tried it, but I don’t imagine that on the lean side, it will hold the set rpm. It will lean out and die? Maybe I should give it a go!!
@@VintageEngineRepairs Yes you got it. The point I'm making is that if an average guy just throws a tach on it and turns screws till he sees the right number, he hasn't necessarilly set it correctly. I've had saws come in where guys have done exactly that.
Scott, I adjust the high speed screw to just get 4 stroking out of the wood, so it cleans up in the cut. If the tach shows its off (too high) i may richen it a little, but I adjust to ensure good pulling in the wood.
@@TheGreasyShopRag it never ceases to amaze me what people are able to achieve 😂 it hurts my head LOL I’m sure you’ve seen some real doozies!!
@@KensSmallEngineRepair Yes thats the way I do it and rarely is it set too fast. I prefer being slightly rich over slightly lean.
What is the make & model number of that tachometer please
Hey! Sure, google “stihl edt 9” and it will come up :)
Question. Is there a cheaper tach on the market that will work?
@@user-lp3cf5yn5b sure, grab a fast tach 👍
What Rpm guage are you using
Pet 2100Dxr
Illustration on how to adjust carburetor. Standard please
Hey I don’t have one I’m afraid, this video covers it :)
You have a tacho bro. Hard when stops on 151 n cant get 2500. Cos its now turns. Really need a dig tacho. But thanks
Interesting! I don’t have an issue with my tach showing 151?
Explain stihl fs55. Max.engine speed (rated) 9500rpm.
Max.output shaft speed (cutting attachment) 7700rpm .which one of these rpm the H speed is to set
When the machine isn’t under load it should be set to run around 9500. However because you’ll be cutting grass, the engine will be loaded because of the resistance of the grass so it won’t ever run at 9500, it will be at around the 7500 rpm in use. Tune to 9.5k if that’s what the manual says max rpm.
Thanks very much
Can you recommend a techometer?
I like the Oppama brand, they offer a tachometer at every price point :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs Thanks. Could you recommend a compression tester for small Stihl engines that screws into spark plug hole?
@@anthonycoppa9089 sure, mityvac make a good one!
Thanks!
Here's one for ya, my kid was playing with the idle screw and screwed it all the way in , not while running though, how do I find the idle setting again , it must have been turned in 5-6 times. Would I turn in all the way, then turn back all the way , then turn in half way ???
Na the best thing is to turn the idle screw in until the chain just starts to move, then turn it back until it just stops. That’s a great place to be.
@@VintageEngineRepairs ok the idle screw is turned all the way in until it stoped, so your say. Back off the screw 5-6 turns and then start turning in
Stihl 461
@@200cdl huh? No I didn’t say that at all lol. Re read my comment above lol
Kid was playing around and kept turning it in all the way until it stopped turning
So you’re saying this is standard for BR400 also? Mine won’t react to idle screw. And I don’t have a meter to use. What to do?
Yep, it’s the same process :)
How should or what is the factory setting for the idle screw?
I looked up BR400 manual and it does not say what the L&H are set in the factory, maybe what you know is as a Stihl Tech you have access to the info.
Can you tell me where to start?
Hey, just to confirm, I’m not a stihl tech! I don’t want any misunderstanding there :) start at 1&1/4 turns out on both L and H and start from there. Use 2800 as your idle. So…
1). 1&1/4 on both screws
2). Start machine
3). Let it warm up for 60 seconds (adjust La if it won’t idle)
4). Adjust LA screw to 3,300
5). Turn L in and out to find fastest rpm
If fastest rpm isn’t 3300 (+/- 200rpm) adjust LA screw to 3300.
6). Turn L in and out to find fastest rpm again, it should be at 3300rpm (+/- 200rpm) if not repeat adjusting LA to 3300.
7). Turn L screw anti clockwise to set rpm to 2,800.
8). Go to full throttle and turn H until you get fastest rpm.
9). Open H screw 1/8 of a turn anti clockwise to richen the mixture.
Tuning complete!
@@VintageEngineRepairs😢 0:33 0:33 0:33
👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it :)
Thinking of purchasing an pulse engine tachometer pal and setting it up to 2500 rpm and adding 500 rpm to it m8t to get 3000 rpm what do you mean by all this spec where’s do you get the spec from
They’re great tachs! I get the specs from workshop or service manuals, thanks for watching!
Will it work on a two stroke Rc car pal
@MarkCook-kv2cj yep!
How do you do it what do you have to do pal because I don’t think I’ve got the instruction manual for the engine or the carburettor m8t
It’s an obr full mod 34 cc and a choke less carburettor pal
You never mentioned what tool is needed to adjust the carbs on stihl equipment.
It depends on the machine
How can we get this type of tachometer in india
Google stihl edt 9, that’s the official tach they sell!
Many people find just starting a stihl is the problem ..they are pigs to start..Ive gone retro old mc cullocks always start ...not a s light or ergonomic but work
Chainsaw I now use a mains 240v electric chainsaw .. quiet always starts
I have never found one machine harder or easier to start than another. All my stihls start easily right away. It’s down to how they’ve been maintained .
@@VintageEngineRepairsmaintenance meticulous,,My personal disappointing/frustrating experience is with low emission latest model hedge trimmers and chainsaw .. others I have to backup with 2 duplicate machines..such is progress
Hi sir i need this corporate adjustment meeter you help me?
Tachometer? It’s a pet2100 👍
@@VintageEngineRepairs yes sir i need
@@VintageEngineRepairs where you buying any link you have give me sir
The mixture adjustment for a string trimmer will not work for a chain saw completely different settings
Hey Bill, it’s the same process mate.
why does chainsaw burn so much fuel?
2 strokes tend to because they throw a lot of it out the muffler unburnt. The newer 2 mix engines that use fresh air and stratification ports reduce this by about 20%
Just mean if saw gets bad and stops runnin. 151 for example, hard to tune up or down. Yer thanks tho they go outa tune fast. Thanks tho digital way to go.
You’ve lost me lol
Echo recommends another adjustment procedure.
The procedure that starts with reducing the max RPM from 14,000 rpm to 12,500 rpm from screw H.
After that, increasing the idle speed by 800 rpm...
So Echo pass.
As mentioned, always best to use the manuals specification, though there is no reason I can think of to set it to 14,000 and then drop to 12,500 on the H. It doesn’t achieve anything. Can you send me the manual name / machine where it states this? Thanks!
@@VintageEngineRepairs The decrease in speed is the effect of screw H. It must be brought there because for the respective speed the air flow rate and the type of mixture (rich this time) are known... the 0 point is established.
The adjustment instructions are written by a Japanese and the Japanese are college graduates and then they are workers who promote to write technical documents. In addition, their culture is vast.
Are you related to Carl Childers!
Sorry, I don’t get the joke or correlation.
@@VintageEngineRepairs oi look im up! Greatest lawnmower repairman in the world. Ye could just type that in ta Google.
I had to ask my US friends as I haven’t seen the movie, thanks for the compliment 🤣👍
I’m lost with this! Confused…. You say set tick over (LA) to 3000….. you then say set L to the fastest but no more than 3000…… why do yo need this step if it is already set to 3000 via the first LA adjustment? Surely the engine is already ticking over at 3000 & should not need any further adjusting to find 3000 because you have just done that? It must be me since everyone else seems to get this! Please enlighten. Enrico.
Sure let me explain.
You set La to 3000.
Then move to the L screw and turn it in and out to find the fastest rpm (it may increase a lot - this time it didn’t)
If it increases, then go back to LA and return it to 3000.
Then go back to L and turn it in and out to find the fastest rpm. If it doesn’t go any faster - perfect! If it speeds up again (it won’t as much but may a little) then use the LA to bring it down.
This sets the correct position of the butterfly. Hope it helps!
?? In the Video you say; if you find the highest speed whis the L srew...bring it back too 3000rpm from the la srew! the bring it down to 2500 whis the L srew??
If you set it at the first setting it would be slightly lean when you give it throttle. It would be fine at idle but a little throttle it would not get enough fuel and would stall or hesitate.
I race two stroke dirt bikes for years. There carbs have more adjustments and use jets. I was got at setting them up. I also use chainsaws a good bit. Now all my friends ask me to jet their chainsaws and trimmers.
Yes, last step to drop 500rpm with L screw --> open L screw out to give little more fuel (rich)
@alanm8932 no, always use the L to bring the rpm back down by 500rpm. That extra fuel is important for good off idle acceleration, notably on carburetors without a part load fixed jet or accelerator pump :)
With mtronic and autotune it is more easy 😊
Haha it’s a great system, when it’s working :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs good point 😀
Good Luck getting a service manual for a newer Stihl engine, Stihl will not give out that information to consumers, it's for dealers only!!!
You can - I get them from forums or a google search. Thanks for watching.
@@VintageEngineRepairs hello Tom can you tell me what forums you use to get the information
Can you show me when saw wont start. Haha sorry but yer
It could be so many issues haha best to start with sparky compression and fuel. Work through each one :)
What the hell did he say?????
You don’t speak English?
Obviously not mate.......you were crystal clear to me!! Great instructional guide.
I will stick with my own method that takes about 30 seconds and never causes a problem, Stihl can officially go pound sand …!
Fair enough!