Restoring Old Wooden OARS with Epoxy [Capable Cruising Guides]

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  • čas přidán 14. 05. 2021
  • Today, Emily shows you some basics of epoxy by repairing and refinishing our old wooden oars.
    IN THIS VIDEO:
    Introduction: [00:19]
    Tools Needed: [00:46]
    Prep: [01:26]
    Mixing Epoxy: [02:26]
    Thicken Epoxy: [03:57]
    Dry-Fitting [04:38]
    Spreading Epoxy: [04:54]
    Clamping: [07:02]
    Fill Cracks & Seams [07:23]
    Sailing Community Karma: [08:25]
    After Epoxy Has Cured: [10:14]
    Scraping, Side #2: [10:55]
    Sanding: [11:50]
    Refinishing: [12:43]
    Finished Product: [13:01]
    STUFF IN THIS VIDEO (includes affiliate links):
    Wooden clamp: amzn.to/3tUgHPy
    2-part epoxy: amzn.to/2SQ17HM
    Have questions or comments? Leave them below! We do our best to read and answer all comments on our channel.
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Komentáře • 34

  • @conbertbenneck49
    @conbertbenneck49 Před 3 lety +2

    Emily, I put a fiberglass end on my oars. A) it protects the oar blade when you are pushing off a rock or a dock, and B) it protects a glued up blade from splitting as yours did.

    • @Garryck-1
      @Garryck-1 Před 2 lety +1

      Dynel cloth works even better than fibreglass. It'd more abrasion resistant. Which is why it's so popular with kayakers, for both paddle tips and the underside of kayaks.

  • @martin5504
    @martin5504 Před 3 lety

    Thanks.

  • @paulfitzgerald1466
    @paulfitzgerald1466 Před 3 lety +3

    I find a clear coat of epoxy before the finishing coat of paint, varnish or cetol, gives a much longer coating life. There is less moisture damage to the underlying wood so the surface coat hangs in there a lot longer. In addition, it is easier to recoat after a light sanding so the epoxy layer remains intact.
    Epoxy is sensitive to UV, so you definitely have to coat it with something that gives UV protection.

  • @grantpeachey6908
    @grantpeachey6908 Před 3 lety +1

    Nice job Emilly and o mg you can row straight

    • @grantpeachey6908
      @grantpeachey6908 Před 3 lety

      i had to put a 3OZ fishing wait in my wife left ear it kept her strait i had 10 oz in my right ear

  • @svdellajean253
    @svdellajean253 Před 3 lety +2

    Hi Emily. Very nice work my friend. I used to use painters tape for the same reason. I’ve since switched to mylar tape like used to ship boxes with better results. Something to consider when you run out of tape.🤙

  • @westmc45
    @westmc45 Před 3 lety +1

    I like these types of videos where you do practical things so maybe you can expand on the knots and tie some fancy knots on the oars I guess its called ornamental knots or something like that.

  • @MiQBohlin
    @MiQBohlin Před 3 lety +1

    Looking forward to the next(last) vid of the dinghy build ⚒

  • @robertadamsmetaldetecting6324

    I discovered U.S. Composites resin years ago when I was an avid wood Turner. Half the price of West system but just as good. I used the same wood flour for doing the fillets on my homemade dinghy. Saved a lot of money using those two products instead of West.

  • @TimsWorkshopTJY
    @TimsWorkshopTJY Před 3 lety

    Hi Emily, good job on fixing the Oars. I restored a couple on a video 2 years ago and mine were one piece which was way easier. I sanded them down and Varathaned them. The oar lock pin/clamps were spray painted with a metallic dark brown which came out cool👍

  • @peterstarkey1360
    @peterstarkey1360 Před 3 lety +1

    Epoxy , is great & when done right , super strong & easy...
    1 - apply (part of) the A&B mixed epoxy....(slow part B)...reduce it a bit with epoxy thinners to pre prepared surfaces so that it soakes into the grain of the timber....then wait a bit & go back to the start & apply neat epoxy from the original mix over again , then add fortifying powder to the original mix to a peanut paste consistently (not mayanase)so it doesn't run away , then apply it to the surfaces (like your putting mortar onto a brick)you slide & drag the applicator along the edge , leaving a small epoxy mountain range along all mating surfaces , then , clamp / clean / done....then next day quick sand , varnish , & ENJOY....cheers

    • @789train
      @789train Před 3 lety

      i agree, we thin 20 percent with acetone for first coat on wood as it soaks in good. we thicken with flox for glueing as cabo is too hard to sand but adding the wood flour will help in this regard. for interior work we cover with varnish but out side should be uv proofed, paint? clear shipping tape is good, wont stick and cheap

  • @williambunting803
    @williambunting803 Před 3 lety +1

    Back in the good old days when the best marine glue was a powder that was mixed with water the advised technique was to wet one surface, lay in a strip of cotton cloth, wet that, wet the closing surface and bring the parts together. The cotton served to strengthen the glue line. I think that the technique is still valid particularly when the surface are not a close match.

    • @EmilyAndClark
      @EmilyAndClark  Před 3 lety +1

      Yes I use fibreglass that way sometimes. -C

  • @mslil40
    @mslil40 Před 3 lety +1

    I save jars of sawdust and fine power. When I epoxy clamp pieces together then I smooth and sprinkle the epoxy that is squeezing out with the sawdust. rub it into the seam with finger (gloved) and when dry sand you won't even see the split.

    • @EmilyAndClark
      @EmilyAndClark  Před 3 lety +1

      Yes, nothing matches as well as dust from the very wood you are sanding.

  • @ThePepsg35
    @ThePepsg35 Před 3 lety

    love the vids, keep them up 1 million subs for you guys

  • @mslil40
    @mslil40 Před 3 lety

    I like the varnish look too or cetol good job

  • @stellahoyle3415
    @stellahoyle3415 Před rokem

    You're awesome

  • @RickCT2000
    @RickCT2000 Před 3 lety +1

    You and Clark are multi-talented! Is there anything you can't do on that boat of yours? Surgery maybe :)

    • @EmilyAndClark
      @EmilyAndClark  Před 3 lety +1

      czcams.com/video/Bhtij3djQqg/video.html

    • @dustman96
      @dustman96 Před 3 lety +1

      I'll bet they have done minor surgery before.

  • @kevbjork1
    @kevbjork1 Před 3 lety

    I was wondering what you were going to do with that old flare? Maybe torch the oars in case the epoxy didn't kick off? LOL. Love your aluminum boat dingy too.

  • @matwilliams4608
    @matwilliams4608 Před 3 lety +1

    I would of used wood glue and wooden dowels to hold them in place then cover the paddles with fibreglass to stop sea water into wood thats me Emily and how clark doing now and you .

  • @40watt_club
    @40watt_club Před 3 lety +1

    WoW beautiful work :-) how old are those oars ? Sail safe the both of you .

    • @LongDistanceSailor
      @LongDistanceSailor Před 3 lety +1

      Not that old actually. I think I bought them new in about 2012. I've re-varnished them once but that's the only care they have gotten into Emily did her project. Looks like they used wood glue. It's good for a while but...

  • @russellesimonetta3835
    @russellesimonetta3835 Před 3 lety

    Better to just mix by weight with a kitchen scale. Easy!

  • @nedwphillips2126
    @nedwphillips2126 Před 3 lety

    Awesome... pardon the pun lol

  • @russellesimonetta3835
    @russellesimonetta3835 Před 3 lety

    Get the epoxy and filler to like peanut butter then it won't run and seep out.

  • @tubeyerself2
    @tubeyerself2 Před 4 měsíci

    NO MECHANICAL CLAMPS REQUIRED, just Masking, Packing or Fibreglass tape. After the contact surfaces are fitted, run a piece of well adhered tape down the length of the (well fitted/parallel) joint, Then the joint may be opened up on the opposite side like a book with the tape acting like a binding or hinge. While cracked open the epoxy or glue can be applied to the opened joint, closed up and finally entire circumference of paddle wrapped with progressive layers of tape to apply ''increasing'' clamping pressure with each layer of tape. This method also leaves zero cleanup required on one side of glue joint.

  • @goodgirlsguide
    @goodgirlsguide Před 3 lety +1

    Why that thumbnail?