Tech Tip: How To Install the SOLGW M89 Handguard
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- The M89 Drive Lock Rail from Sons of Liberty Gun Works brings new meaning to the old term "rock solid." It's a free-floating M-LOK® AR-15 handguard that is an outstandingly secure, versatile accessory mounting platform. The M89 is pretty easy to install IF you know a few tricks. Brownells Gun Tech™ Caleb Savant shows us how to do it step by step. SOLGW includes all the hardware you need, including the proprietary barrel nut that is the secret to the M89's remarkable stability. You'll need these TOOLS: barrel nut wrench that comes with each M89, bench vise, upper receiver vise block, hex wrench, 1/2" drive adjustable torque wrench, and a smaller 1/4" torque driver like the Brownells Magna-Tip® Adjustable Torque Handle.
PHASE 1: Put a little light grease like Brownells Action Lube Plus® on the barrel extension to help it slide into the receiver. Also apply a little grease to the receiver threads, then thread on the M89's barrel nut until it's hand tight. Tighten it down the rest of the way with the SOLGW barrel nut wrench motivated by the 1/2" torque driver set to 40 ft.-lbs. Then install the gas block and gas tube.
PHASE 2: Slide the M89 onto the barrel nut. If you're working with a Sons of Liberty Gun Works upper receiver, you'll find a little recess in the front of the receiver and a corresponding recess in the handguard. The little steel pin that comes with the M89 snugs into the recesses to ensure there's NO WAY the Drive Lock Rail can rotate on the barrel nut. If you have a non-SOLGW upper receiver, don't worry. The M89 also has robust anti-rotation tabs. If you really, really want to use the anti-rotation pin on your non-SOLGW upper, you can mill a hole in the receiver for it. CALEB'S WARNING: Do not try to drill the hole with a drill press or hand drill! Use a milling machine or take the receiver to a gunsmith who has one.
PHASE 3: Use the hex wrench to install the three nut-bolt-sleeve sets that clamp the M89 to the barrel nut. They squeeze the handguard around the barrel nut, while the shape of the barrel nut's outer surface causes them to pull the handguard back against the receiver. For extra security, use the small torque driver with a correct-size hex bit in it to tighten down the bolts with 25 to 30 in.-lbs. of torque. That's INCH pounds, not foot pounds. Your SOLGW M89 Drive Lock Rail M-LOK® handguard is now locked down tight on your AR-15!
Not to be contradicting, but Mike from SOLGW states you don't torque the bolts on the handguard. Each one comes to a hard stop you can't over tighten them you just tighten til they stop. Starting with the center bolt first and and just switch back and forth til they're all tight. And barrel nut is supposed to be tightened to 60 flbs, not 40 (also stated by Mike). I learned by error. My barrel nut loosened on me. LOL! I love these rails!
Love your videos Caleb, I’m sure I’m late to the party here but sons of Liberty gun works has a video as well and they recommend a few different things than what you did. The barrel nut for their product on the M89 rail should be torqued to 60ft lbs, and when tightening the hand guard screws you start with the middle screw and work in a start format as you would on a tires lug nuts. Once they come to a hard stop you’re done. I’m sure someone has already commented on this, I just didn’t want to read through all the comments. Again, I’m not trying a gotcha moment, I just wanted to let you know. I love your vids and all the help you have given us viewers over these years. Keep rockin it brother. Stay ready so you dont got to get ready!
One tip I found that helps too. I have an old ACOG mount with the two thumb screws that I place half on the rail and half on the upper receiver. Since there is always a little side to side play in the rail, it lines it perfectly straight with the upper. And it keeps the rail in place when you tighten the screws. An detachable carry handle works too.
My SOLGW M4 M89 and I sleep together ever night. She by far is the best snuggler. My wife left me, but I still have my sweet M4.
She finally got the hint. Mine doesn’t.
If a lady can't understand the relationship between a man and his m4, she's going to have to find her a woman
@@CZcamsflakeland😂
Would be cool if Brownells did a builders class. Let's say you have an AR you want to build but don't want to screw it up doing it completely by yourself & you don't want to buy all the specific tools. There are tools & gunsmiths there to help you do it correctly. And then maybe the following day you go the range & make sure it functions probably, possibly zero an optic. Then go back & cover proper cleaning.
Noted!
Always love going to lunch at work and having new vids 👍👍👍
End of March I’m placing my order for a 13.75” m89 for a 14.5” build. I’m excited about that. Lol. And I’ve been waiting for this video for awhile now. Thank you. Great job.
I got a video SOLGW sent me last year and the torque value on the barrel nut they recommend is 65 ft-lbs.
@@carls2210 thank you for the updated information. I wonder why 25-30” lbs was recommended in this video?
@@Deadleg1-502 "25-30 ft/lbs" was NOT recommended in this video, the recommendation was 40 ft/lbs, try to always avoid torqueing to the minimum or maximum. The Torque range for an AR15 barrel nut is between 35-80 ft/lbs. Anywhere in that range will get you where you need to be. 40 ft/lbs will never come off, the only reason to do more is if you are using a barrel nut that needs to be indexed at a certain point, this one does not.
@@Deadleg1-502 that idk. They also recommend on the 3 small screws to just tighten them until they come to a hard stop. I can email you the video if you would like?
So I misread Carl S first comment to me. I thought he was talking about the three screws on the handguard. I thought he was saying to torque the screws to 65 inch/lbs.
That’s why I questioned the 25-30 inch/lbs for the handguard. Misunderstanding.
That inch pound torque wrench has a terrifying sound when it releases, exactly like a bolt breaking. Might just be the audio. Great video regardless!
Yeah I prefer the wheeler fat wrench over this wrench he uses. Just preference really to it’s ergo’s and they also make good tools. Nothin wrong with the one in the video either if course.
You can get torque wrench’s that are digital so you see the weight adding up and they don’t have a snap to them when they hit the limit. Torque wrench’s have the click, those torque screwdrivers have a snap.
@@FishFind3000 yeah the digitals typically just beep
HA!!! I thought the same thing.
You got that right! For a split second, I thought he snapped the bolt with how loud it was and how far his hand jumped.
The wedge lock handguard is the one a how-to video is needed for. Lol
Agreed! 😂
Trajectory arms have one on their channel.
FYI - The torque spec on the barrell nut is 65 ft/lbs per SOLGW/Hodge. It's a high amount of torque relative to many other barrel nuts, but it is the spec.
40 lbs is quite a bit below spec but may be fine. I torqued to 60-65. YMMV.
Did you have to call to get this info?
@UrNotThatGuyPal Actually, my install guide from solgw says 60ft/lbs. Maybe they updated it? Who knows.
I don't have a torque wrench. Should I still tighten it down until I hear a click?
yes, this was a joke.
🧐 marry up the theeads 🤣🤣.
Nice way to say "set the barrel nut" 😉😄
First comment! SOLGW kicks butt!
Great video! Now do the SOLGW M76 rail.
Trajectory Arms and Zev Tech have install videos for the same rail
Solgw CS stated 60ft/ib for the barrel nut
Not sure if the weight is worth it, but I'll just do more front raises at the gym
Looks cool
I thought it would be self contained and fairly explanatory.
No Loctite 242 on those 3 fasteners?
Nope, not needed.
Is there any trick in taking it back off? I’ve gotta slightly rotate my gas block
I unscrewed the three small bolts and it doesn’t want to budge.
I thought you weren’t supposed to reclick torque wrenches and drivers? Something about the second click over torquing the screws?
He said loosen and retighten not give a second click after torquing.
Uh..the point of the click is to not overtighten..so no, it’s completely fine.
Do the fasteners have to be tightened in a certain order?
Always alternate in a random order
I agree with Walther502... always alternate and never completely tighten on the first go around because you want to make sure everything gets aligned and seated correctly before you put some torque to it. And that goes for anything and everything that has more than two fasteners. A 5 lug wheel you'd want to do something like 1, 3, 5, 2, 4, 1 or a 6 lug wheel would be 1, 4, 2, 5, 3, 6, 2 and repeat a time or two.
Solve says start with the center and do a star pattern like a tire, once they get to a hard stop you’re done. I can confirm, It works!!
Sorry, meant Solgw… not solve. Damn auto correct.
Can we get a video on that brn 180 upper that let’s you turn off the gas system.
Yes, Just got them in house and gonna shoot a video, throw on a can and film some at the range.
I have a question so to put one of these kind of handguards on an AR-15 would I have to remove the gas block to put it on or can I slip it over the gas block and install it the only reason I'm asking this question is because I have some gentleman that wants to trade me an AR-15 rifle but he broke one of the set screws off in the original handguard that came on the AR but he said it is broke off in the barrel or something like that or do you know how I can go about removing the broken set screw from the side of the barrel thank you and keep up the amazing CZcams videos CZcams channel is awesome
Gas block must be removed, same goes for any handguard that uses its own barrel nut (which is most).
@@brownells Ok thank you for replying back
Is this better than DD RIS3?
Why is he on reddit?
No thread lock on those three handguard screws?
Nope
@@CalebSavant would it be ok to put blue loctite on the threads? Or just not necessary?
This vs the BCM mcmr?
M89 is girthier, sturdier, heavier. MCMR has 1.3" inside diameter where M89 has 1.4" inside diameter. So doesn't get hot as easily but requires a larger grip.
Also MCMR has more mlok spots but there are no spots that I need that the M89 doesn't have. M89 still has diagonal m-lok spots near the muzzle I can still put my inline flashlight on.
@@Lightrunnerr yeah I decided to go with the m89 for my 14.5. Mainly because of the lock up and having a wider diameter. I have pretty slim rails that have heated up extremely fast after like 2 mags and gloves didn't help much. That being said I have a brand new mcmr for sale if anyone is interested!
@@TheJetlife94 get the rail covers and it fixes that issue. I’ve done a 200 round burn down with my Uppee on a M16 lower and those did fine.
@@BadMelonFarmer78 theirs machine shops that make longer lightened steel barrel nuts for BCM, I got one, idk what the company is tho tbh.
🤔 Will that hand-guard affect the way the forward assist functions? 😂
That is the absolute worst upper vise block you can use. You need a reaction rod that fully supports the upper and barrel index pin. MI makes an excellent one. That block you used puts all of the installation stress on the takedown pin lugs.
I don't understand the appeal of this HG? It's reinventing the wheel by a mid-tier manufacturer for double the price of a premiere brand. Why not just buy one from a top tier manufacturer like BCM for half the price of this and be done with it.
Ahhh.. 60lbs
Don’t use a hand drill yall
he didn't say no Dremels!
_runs_