I really appreciate your openness and honesty about the learning process. Every bit of natty veg leather is different and the years-long journey from white/pink to golden honey is a real pleasure!
After two years of use, the leather had patinaed which makes the leather take oil differently. If you wanted a completely even coating, either treat it when new or clean the patinaed leather with saddle soap & light ethanol or degreasing solutions.
No No! I love that look, shows it's been used not just left in a cupboard , it has character. Using neatsfoot oil I brought back to life a Type-3 Flying jacket made by the Aero Leather Clo.co, Beacon, NY. It had been hanging on the back of the cellar door of an old Cornish Pub for 30-40 years. The landlady had said she used to rap her baby in it when she served behind the bar. It was that stiff it stood up on it's own. I have it still to this day ,draped around my computer chair and on occasion i think of and thank the guy who's it was in the war.
I have a solid opinion on leather bags, and actually, almost all leathercrafting, color differences and little imperfections make it much more beautiful.
Need to do a follow up on this to see how it looks now 2 years later! love to see what it looks like now! And you can always still dye it a light color.
Great learning experience there. The final colour seems really similar to Fibings English Bridle. It's turned out to have some real character and you'll always remember this learning each and everytime you wear that bag. That's a pretty cool thing. Congratulations, and that bag design is A1 sir. Bravo.
I really like the way it came out, and of course over time, the parts that you touch frequently will also darken more than those that you don't. One probable reason that the tabs and the handle retaining strip on the back are darker is that, unlike the rest of the bag, they are relatively large pieces of leather that cannot 'breathe' or dry out from the back, so they get more saturated because the leather they are attached to is ALSO saturated and keeps 'feeding' them oil from the backside. One possible way to avoid that is to pretreat before assembly, but of course that has its own risks as far as scratches, stained thread, etc. Really nice to see the relative effects of all the products; thanks for all you do!
The difference between you and me is that hitting that nice bag with Neatsfoot would have been my first action after acquiring. By now it would have had several treatments. The color you ended with-variations included-is a radical improvement to my eye, and I know the leather breathed a sigh of relief.
That inconsistent color makes it look like it's been weathered, like it's gone places. Just call it "weathering" and you're good. ;) Fine work as always, sir!
I'm old school from capriolas was taught to use olive oil because there's no petroleum in it. Thanx for the tutorial. Neatsfoot oil has been around for a long time. Blessings on you guys and happy Thanksgiving.
I have a natural color saddle and been doing a lot of research online (with not much help) on what to use that’ll make it a shade or two darker and this was super helpful thank you much :)
Note that you are using Neatsfoot "compound" that is mixed with petroleum products which will actually dry out the leather in a short period of time. Stick to Pure Neatsfoot Oil which is much better. The "compound" is more for mixing with dye's to get a more even application and is not intended to be used as in this application. I buy Fiebings Pure Neatsfoot Oil at Tractor Supply for $10 a quart (lowest price I have found) which is not much more than the "compound"...
So I was planning on redying my black leather boots because I used the “normal” fiebings black dye and not the pro dye and I wasn’t thrilled with the results (uneven, spotty, dull and just not good) even with several applications and diligent buffing (which made an improvement but still not what I wanted) so I was planning on using the Saphir decapant (sp? Acetone) pure neatsfoot oil to conditione the leather and either the pro dye or the Saphir dye. Will the pure neatsfoot be better for this project and does it need to be mixed with the dye (the pro dye is alcohol/oil anyway right?) just curious what you might think about that.
thank you so much for this video! i really appreciate videos with realistic, albeit unexpected results. i think the bag looks wonderful the way it came out, though i definitely understand the "oops!" feeling, haha.
Hey... I think that your bag revitalization turned out quite well! I was surprised at hoe clean and un-dirtied that the original untouched two year old leather had stayed including the stitching! I use "Bick 4" on all of my leather products (Holsters, Western Boots, Brief Cases, Coach Wallets, College style Varsity Jacket Sleeve's albeit all previously dressed oy dyed) then brush it with a Horse-Hair Shoe Brush for that soft glow! Love your stuff...Keep-On Keepin ON! Thanks~Mike...
Thanks for this video. I actually love the result. I’ve been using mink oil to freshen up and waterproof my outdoor projects. Looking to try Bikmore products for moisturizing bags.
What I love in working with leather is how every little things you do, like applying oils and tans on projects looks so different and unique. I just made 2 belts for costume and both looks quite unique and different. My first simple card wallet looks like disaster piece but it works and even if it isn't the most gorgeous piece of art, it's still self made and unique and it grows on me. (also figured out that shoe polish is no go for dye unless you're aiming for quite ugly looking projects) :D
Be advised that applying shoe polish to veg tanned leather will cause the dermal layer to constrict and subsequently crack with flex action. Not recommended.
I have always used Saphir Nappa Balm to my vegetable tanned leather luggage. It doesn’t contain any waxes and won’t change the texture/color of the leather.
Don Gonzales got me into olive oil. It tends to go on better for me than neatsfoot oil. I finish with tan kote as well. Good to see you doing more videos..good health to you and your family.
I've got some neatsfoot oil on the way and was planning to use a dauber for it but after watching this i'll definitely use a rag instead to make sure i dont go overboard
Great Video! Thanks for sharing the experience. Did you go around the stitches when applying oil? Not sure how it will effect the white stitching lines.
Now your bag has the seniority look it's been around a while . You might try some Lexol goes on much more even and I believe is a better leather treatment than anything else on the market . Needs foot oil is not made out the same things once was. Happy Trails
You can always go back through and use a little bit of neatsfoot oil in the lighter areas. Also drying in the sun can give neatsfoot oil a very warm russet color. Although you need to flip projects every so often for an even look. Also applying it in several coats with a rag is the way to go with larger projects. However I make gun holsters and neatsfoot oil is a very common finish. Now because my holsters are small and wet formed (heavily wet formed leather absorbs much less oil) a dobber is more appropriate. Just don't put too much neatsfoot oil on. You're definitely better taking your time doing multiple light coats until you get a feel for it. Basically the leather can soak up almost as much as you put on it and if you put too much it'll be seeping oil like a greasy dish rag for years.
Another option to condition the leather is to use Fiebings Aussie leather conditioner. Just wipe it on and use a heat gun to melt it in. It will darken the leather a bit but it will provide a very even finish vs. the oil. The heated Aussie also tends to penetrate the leather better than the oil so you don’t get as much oil/conditioner at the surface. I use it a lot this way and it works great. With that said the bag looks incredible with the oil and the variation adds character so...it depends on what you want.
Enjoyed your well-made tutorial! When dad worked at grandpa's orthopedic shoe store, he made a leather briefcase. I'm going to attempt to restore it, with your advice. The briefcase, being approximately 50-60 years old, is very dry and stiff, the machined double stitching has pretty much dry-rotted, and the briefcase certainly needs re-dyeing. I know that I need to soften the leather (Bick 4?, Neatsfoot oil?) before I can hand-stitch the seams, but which should I do first - condition the leather for softening or dye it? Many thanks in advance for your advice.
I think it turned out awesome! If you hate it, let me know, I'll send you a box with my address on it! :) Thanks for showing the process, too! I appreciate your content and openness.
Oh man I could tell you’re bummed. As soon as I saw that wool dauber I knew it wasn’t the right choice to apply oil. You’ll never make that mistake again. Live and learn!
Do you think mink oil is good on an untreated veg tan leather bag? Somehow, I find that it is not moisturizing enough. I was applying mink oil on my bag every month, but deep, dry cracks still showed. So now I apply a little mink oil every 1-2 weeks. Appreciate your views. Thank you.
Thanks for this video. Helps a lot. What about getting a random water stain or two out of leather? I have a large leather purse that is the same color of what your original bag looked like (before you put the neatsfoot on it). I purchased it a year ago and never put anything on it to protect it.
The bag looks good after the treatment. Though I'd have applied some more Neat's foot oil to the lighter areas with a cloth, to try to even the colour up.
Hello Sir, Thanks for your vid. I have two questions. 01- I tried slickering the edge of vegtan leather but it doesn't work. It remains saame but gets little bit darker color but not like yours. I used hand slicker and electril machine too, 02- What thickness of thread did you use in making this bag? . One more please. Do you apply a paint, polish or something else to make it like yours? Thanks.
Good afternoon Thanks for the interesting video! But I'm still afraid to use oil on bags. When I make belts or wallets, I use it without fear. But the bag can stain clothes, leaving greasy marks on them. Perhaps if you let the oil soak in well, it won’t get dirty)
Well well well some nice tips and things to learn here, when I put on ma leather, and rock to sum Metallica, Delta Parole, Foo Fighters or the Smashing Pumpkins I feel like I can do anything in the whole wide world.
Once I also applied too much oil and since then use only my own balm that saturates with fat and at the same time protect leather from daily use. If you are interested, I can give a recipe for balm)
For your viewers who appreciate high quality leather care products - I researched quite a lot about what makes a "premium" grade conditioner saddle soap & polish. Avoiding harsh chemicals & petroleum products is a good start to leather lasting a lifetime & NOT destroying stitching in your items. I make my own saddle soap now - lard based & my own conditioner & shoe polish. Its very easy it costs a fraction of what Saphir (for example) charges & I know my ingredients are the very best & most nourishing to the leather. My recipe cost me just over $1.00/ounce compared to their conditioning shoe cream at $25.00/one third ounce!. Why I like it - it made even my 35 yr old dress boots look beautiful & very supple - unbelievably so, it smells good & fights bacteria & nourishes the leather long term with no harmful ingredients. Here it is - I thought about marketing it but its all been done Im sure. Conditioner: 1 part jojoba oil, 1 part lanolin, 1 part raw shea butter. Melt in a double boiler together then add 1/3 part D-limonene (orange oil). I poured this into screw top 2 oz tins. All my ingredients easily found online. The oj oil makes it smell good because it covers the lanolin scent which is a little off & the oj oil fights bacterial growth. For those who like researching, google "shoe polish patent Oliver Rothenberger 2012" its a wealth of information on the topic - made my own polishes & they're far far less expensive & so much nicer than the brands we are familiar with & no harmful ingredients. Do yourself a favor & look at this paper it covers everything on the subject including formulas, parameters & pros & cons of natural & more commercial ingredients. MAKE YOUR OWN! I use this on some leather furniture & office items & was very pleased with result.
Hi! I need help. My question is: does the oil transfer to your clothes? I have a leather backpack that could really use some mink or neatsfoot oil but i don' t know whether it would stain all my t-shirts or not, which would render it practically unusable.
Hi I have this vintage chanel bag, I did some repair on the leather with leather cleaner and it make the leather look very dull. It looses the shines of the leather. How to make my bag shiny again instead of Matte. Thank you
I started to experiment with veg tan, which is quite hard (and even more so after applying water-based dyes), so I wanted to soften it and rubbed in some Fiebing's neatsfoot oil, though it smells intensely with ... beef soup? marrow bones? It completely beats the natural smell of leather that I like. Does it change with time? Any advise there please? :)
I've had a suede leather rifle case for many years. This last year I had it stored (no gun inside) in a very humid room and it molded during the summer months. I used a mild soap and water this late summer to clean it. Yes, it hardened the leather a bit from the soap and water. This week I brushed it and removed the mold and vacuumed it clean. Unfortunately, the leather will never look new again as a result of my stupid storing...mold. I don't dare use Neatsfoot oil or mink oil on it, but it definitely needs treating and moisturizing. It's a medium brown leather and I'd like to give it another 10 years of life by revitalizing it. What do you suggest? - Tim
If you get neatsfootoil then I would recommend to buy some vitamin C or other ascorbic acid to make the oil stable .You can only use it on heavy daily used leather goods so the oil will evaporate before going rancid .The oil will smell rancid to begin with.
What do you think of putting the Neatsfoot oil in a new microwave bowel and heat it up a little that way instead of a stove? And I've read some people say to only put Neatsfoot oil on the flesh side and not on the grain. They didn't say why though. Does Neatsfoot oil cause any issue with a top coat adhering to the leather?
Just want to ask if you know one that is similar to Smiths that I can get from australia. Its almost near impossible or costing me an arm and leg to get smiths. Is there another brand/balm that you can reccomand that is like smiths? I want to achieve little to no darkening. thank you
What is vegan? It doesn't eat meat? I like you checked out different kinds this was helpful. Thanks. You live next to a river? Was hearing water on the porch.
Does anyone know what ingredients Chamberlain's products uses? A problem I have with Chamberlain's is they don't disclose their ingredients. I don't feel comfortable letting something completely unknown soak into the my leather goods' fibers.
You should get a cooking oil spray bottle like a misto. It's almost like having an airbrush application. And its cheap, made for oils, and made of metal so you can still heat the oil up.
Think that the end result looks 100% better than what you started off with. To tell you the truth you are probably the only person who will notice the difference between the straps. So unless you show people the difference most people won't notice because it looks like it's supposed to be that way. The bag before the oil looked unfinished, like you skipped some sort of step before putting the bag together. Maybe that's the look you wanted, but to me it didn't really look like a leather bag. So yeah, I think the finished bag looks awesome!
I am buying natural veg tanned. Oiling with neatsfoot before dyeing will effect the consistency of dye color & look on leather?... Or its safer to oil it after dyeing?
Thumbs up if you're about the natty veg;)
You can use peanut butter to condition the leather too in a pinch, just keep the dogs away from it
I want to see that bag again next year.
On the bright side: although it was uneven, it makes it look more rugged and loved. Plus over time it will even out when it tans more!
It's like John Wayne's face - it now has CHARACTER!
Looks way better than just the natural color imo. I also like how the oil brought out the imperfections & various unique characteristics in the grain.
I really appreciate your openness and honesty about the learning process. Every bit of natty veg leather is different and the years-long journey from white/pink to golden honey is a real pleasure!
I really like how you’re honest about how things ended up and didn’t mean it to be like that! Thanks for all the info bro!
After two years of use, the leather had patinaed which makes the leather take oil differently. If you wanted a completely even coating, either treat it when new or clean the patinaed leather with saddle soap & light ethanol or degreasing solutions.
Edgar, would acetone work as well or the same as the ethanol? Thanks.
@@kayBTR great question! I would strongly caution against acetone as it strips the leather and can be damaging to the fibers.
I actually really like the color, the dark and light. Makes it look really good
No No! I love that look, shows it's been used not just left in a cupboard , it has character.
Using neatsfoot oil I brought back to life a Type-3 Flying jacket made by the Aero Leather Clo.co, Beacon, NY.
It had been hanging on the back of the cellar door of an old Cornish Pub for 30-40 years. The landlady had said she used to rap her baby in it when she served behind the bar. It was that stiff it stood up on it's own. I have it still to this day ,draped around my computer chair and on occasion i think of and thank the guy who's it was in the war.
I have a solid opinion on leather bags, and actually, almost all leathercrafting, color differences and little imperfections make it much more beautiful.
It looks aged, I like it. Thanks for what you do in sharing so much with us.
Need to do a follow up on this to see how it looks now 2 years later! love to see what it looks like now! And you can always still dye it a light color.
Looks much better than before the oil. It now has a ton of charming character! 😜
Great video. I'm getting ready for my 2-year old bag's first treatment. Leaning towards the Chamberlin after watching your results!
You did a GREAT job. It looks fantastic!
Please keep uploading at this pace I love it
hoping to keep it up, thanks!
Great learning experience there. The final colour seems really similar to Fibings English Bridle. It's turned out to have some real character and you'll always remember this learning each and everytime you wear that bag. That's a pretty cool thing. Congratulations, and that bag design is A1 sir. Bravo.
Wow SO helpfull !!! thanks to you I am going for it. Love from Europe 💞 The whole bag looks 10 times better than the original !!
I really like the way it came out, and of course over time, the parts that you touch frequently will also darken more than those that you don't. One probable reason that the tabs and the handle retaining strip on the back are darker is that, unlike the rest of the bag, they are relatively large pieces of leather that cannot 'breathe' or dry out from the back, so they get more saturated because the leather they are attached to is ALSO saturated and keeps 'feeding' them oil from the backside. One possible way to avoid that is to pretreat before assembly, but of course that has its own risks as far as scratches, stained thread, etc. Really nice to see the relative effects of all the products; thanks for all you do!
Thank you for posting such an honest video, great tip on using a rag in lieu of the dauber.
i love the way it looks
Can’t wait to see the video! Looking forward to it!
Thanks Brandon:) I appreciate your support
Love the results
The difference between you and me is that hitting that nice bag with Neatsfoot would have been my first action after acquiring. By now it would have had several treatments. The color you ended with-variations included-is a radical improvement to my eye, and I know the leather breathed a sigh of relief.
That inconsistent color makes it look like it's been weathered, like it's gone places. Just call it "weathering" and you're good. ;)
Fine work as always, sir!
Love the work you do with the leather.
Very impressive skill.
Thank you Sir. Excellent educational video.
Duuuuude that bag looks so good!!!!
thanks dude!!
I'm old school from capriolas was taught to use olive oil because there's no petroleum in it. Thanx for the tutorial. Neatsfoot oil has been around for a long time. Blessings on you guys and happy Thanksgiving.
I have a natural color saddle and been doing a lot of research online (with not much help) on what to use that’ll make it a shade or two darker and this was super helpful thank you much :)
That was extremely helpful. 👍😊
Note that you are using Neatsfoot "compound" that is mixed with petroleum products which will actually dry out the leather in a short period of time. Stick to Pure Neatsfoot Oil which is much better. The "compound" is more for mixing with dye's to get a more even application and is not intended to be used as in this application. I buy Fiebings Pure Neatsfoot Oil at Tractor Supply for $10 a quart (lowest price I have found) which is not much more than the "compound"...
Good catch, Larry. You are absolutely correct.
So I was planning on redying my black leather boots because I used the “normal” fiebings black dye and not the pro dye and I wasn’t thrilled with the results (uneven, spotty, dull and just not good) even with several applications and diligent buffing (which made an improvement but still not what I wanted) so I was planning on using the Saphir decapant (sp? Acetone) pure neatsfoot oil to conditione the leather and either the pro dye or the Saphir dye. Will the pure neatsfoot be better for this project and does it need to be mixed with the dye (the pro dye is alcohol/oil anyway right?) just curious what you might think about that.
As far as I know mixing neatfoot oil into pro dye is not necessary@@existentialcwboy
Beautful product sir!
thank you so much for this video! i really appreciate videos with realistic, albeit unexpected results. i think the bag looks wonderful the way it came out, though i definitely understand the "oops!" feeling, haha.
Awesome vid, very useful, thank you!
Love the color of the end result , before it was rather boring , I think it brought the leather to life
Love the character . Better than if it was perfect
Beautiful bag after oiled.
Wonderful work, bro!
Thanks a lot!
The last time I wanted to apply oil over something like this I used an airbrush to apply the oil evenly and it worked pretty well.
I dig that look.
Hey... I think that your bag revitalization turned out quite well! I was surprised at hoe clean and un-dirtied that the original untouched two year old leather had stayed including the stitching! I use "Bick 4" on all of my leather products (Holsters, Western Boots, Brief Cases, Coach Wallets, College style Varsity Jacket Sleeve's albeit all previously dressed oy dyed) then brush it with a Horse-Hair Shoe Brush for that soft glow! Love your stuff...Keep-On Keepin ON! Thanks~Mike...
that's great to know, thanks Mike!
Tan Kote is an amazing product.
Wtf. That was nice. I like it when you were done treating it. I like the patina it has
great video
Thanks for this video. I actually love the result. I’ve been using mink oil to freshen up and waterproof my outdoor projects. Looking to try Bikmore products for moisturizing bags.
What I love in working with leather is how every little things you do, like applying oils and tans on projects looks so different and unique. I just made 2 belts for costume and both looks quite unique and different. My first simple card wallet looks like disaster piece but it works and even if it isn't the most gorgeous piece of art, it's still self made and unique and it grows on me. (also figured out that shoe polish is no go for dye unless you're aiming for quite ugly looking projects) :D
Be advised that applying shoe polish to veg tanned leather will cause the dermal layer to constrict and subsequently crack with flex action. Not recommended.
@@stanhegeman8751 Ah, that is good to know! It was when I started and it was all I had on that point. :D
It's gorgeous
I have always used Saphir Nappa Balm to my vegetable tanned leather luggage. It doesn’t contain any waxes and won’t change the texture/color of the leather.
Don Gonzales got me into olive oil. It tends to go on better for me than neatsfoot oil. I finish with tan kote as well. Good to see you doing more videos..good health to you and your family.
I noticed that on his vids, might have to try it out. thanks for the kind words!
I've got some neatsfoot oil on the way and was planning to use a dauber for it but after watching this i'll definitely use a rag instead to make sure i dont go overboard
Great Video! Thanks for sharing the experience. Did you go around the stitches when applying oil? Not sure how it will effect the white stitching lines.
Now your bag has the seniority look it's been around a while . You might try some Lexol goes on much more even and I believe is a better leather treatment than anything else on the market . Needs foot oil is not made out the same things once was. Happy Trails
Great video! Where did you get that apron? I love the way it tightens up.
You can always go back through and use a little bit of neatsfoot oil in the lighter areas. Also drying in the sun can give neatsfoot oil a very warm russet color. Although you need to flip projects every so often for an even look.
Also applying it in several coats with a rag is the way to go with larger projects. However I make gun holsters and neatsfoot oil is a very common finish. Now because my holsters are small and wet formed (heavily wet formed leather absorbs much less oil) a dobber is more appropriate.
Just don't put too much neatsfoot oil on. You're definitely better taking your time doing multiple light coats until you get a feel for it. Basically the leather can soak up almost as much as you put on it and if you put too much it'll be seeping oil like a greasy dish rag for years.
Another option to condition the leather is to use Fiebings Aussie leather conditioner. Just wipe it on and use a heat gun to melt it in. It will darken the leather a bit but it will provide a very even finish vs. the oil. The heated Aussie also tends to penetrate the leather better than the oil so you don’t get as much oil/conditioner at the surface. I use it a lot this way and it works great.
With that said the bag looks incredible with the oil and the variation adds character so...it depends on what you want.
I spray neatsfoot oil ( 87 degrees ) . obernaufs or aussie cream inside and out . Great videos , thanks
good tip, thanks!
Enjoyed your well-made tutorial!
When dad worked at grandpa's orthopedic shoe store, he made a leather briefcase. I'm going to attempt to restore it, with your advice.
The briefcase, being approximately 50-60 years old, is very dry and stiff, the machined double stitching has pretty much dry-rotted, and the briefcase certainly needs re-dyeing. I know that I need to soften the leather (Bick 4?, Neatsfoot oil?) before I can hand-stitch the seams, but which should I do first - condition the leather for softening or dye it?
Many thanks in advance for your advice.
Thanks for all of your videos. I have a question on the business side of things. What do you recommend for business insurance?
I think it turned out awesome! If you hate it, let me know, I'll send you a box with my address on it! :) Thanks for showing the process, too! I appreciate your content and openness.
Oh man I could tell you’re bummed. As soon as I saw that wool dauber I knew it wasn’t the right choice to apply oil. You’ll never make that mistake again. Live and learn!
haha, i thought exactly the same, been there, done that, learned my lesson
I too learned the hard way so now I just use a gloved hand and apply it scarcely to the leather.
As the leather dries out over time it will lighten up
You could see the disappointment in his face. But I think the bag turned out great
haha thanks man
Do you think mink oil is good on an untreated veg tan leather bag?
Somehow, I find that it is not moisturizing enough.
I was applying mink oil on my bag every month, but deep, dry cracks still showed.
So now I apply a little mink oil every 1-2 weeks.
Appreciate your views. Thank you.
Thanks for this video. Helps a lot. What about getting a random water stain or two out of leather? I have a large leather purse that is the same color of what your original bag looked like (before you put the neatsfoot on it). I purchased it a year ago and never put anything on it to protect it.
The bag looks good after the treatment. Though I'd have applied some more Neat's foot oil to the lighter areas with a cloth, to try to even the colour up.
Hello Sir, Thanks for your vid. I have two questions.
01- I tried slickering the edge of vegtan leather but it doesn't work. It remains saame but gets little bit darker color but not like yours. I used hand slicker and electril machine too,
02- What thickness of thread did you use in making this bag?
.
One more please. Do you apply a paint, polish or something else to make it like yours? Thanks.
Do you think hand oils could have added to the extra darkness on the straps?
Good afternoon Thanks for the interesting video!
But I'm still afraid to use oil on bags.
When I make belts or wallets, I use it without fear.
But the bag can stain clothes, leaving greasy marks on them. Perhaps if you let the oil soak in well, it won’t get dirty)
Great video Thank you, I have untreated saddle bags anyway I can dye them black?
Well well well some nice tips and things to learn here, when I put on ma leather, and rock to sum Metallica, Delta Parole, Foo Fighters or the Smashing Pumpkins I feel like I can do anything in the whole wide world.
That bag looked brand new in the start of the video and beat up after.
Once I also applied too much oil and since then use only my own balm that saturates with fat and at the same time protect leather from daily use. If you are interested, I can give a recipe for balm)
Do you think this process would work with Chrome Tanned Leather? beautiful bag !! Do you ever use Apple Brand Garde Rain & Stain Water Repellent ?
For your viewers who appreciate high quality leather care products - I researched quite a lot about what makes a "premium" grade conditioner saddle soap & polish. Avoiding harsh chemicals & petroleum products is a good start to leather lasting a lifetime & NOT destroying stitching in your items. I make my own saddle soap now - lard based & my own conditioner & shoe polish. Its very easy it costs a fraction of what Saphir (for example) charges & I know my ingredients are the very best & most nourishing to the leather. My recipe cost me just over $1.00/ounce compared to their conditioning shoe cream at $25.00/one third ounce!. Why I like it - it made even my 35 yr old dress boots look beautiful & very supple - unbelievably so, it smells good & fights bacteria & nourishes the leather long term with no harmful ingredients. Here it is - I thought about marketing it but its all been done Im sure. Conditioner: 1 part jojoba oil, 1 part lanolin, 1 part raw shea butter. Melt in a double boiler together then add 1/3 part D-limonene (orange oil). I poured this into screw top 2 oz tins. All my ingredients easily found online. The oj oil makes it smell good because it covers the lanolin scent which is a little off & the oj oil fights bacterial growth. For those who like researching, google "shoe polish patent Oliver Rothenberger 2012" its a wealth of information on the topic - made my own polishes & they're far far less expensive & so much nicer than the brands we are familiar with & no harmful ingredients. Do yourself a favor & look at this paper it covers everything on the subject including formulas, parameters & pros & cons of natural & more commercial ingredients. MAKE YOUR OWN! I use this on some leather furniture & office items & was very pleased with result.
Nice
Alright, just go on ahead and put this pattern up for sale. I'll be the first one to buy it! Ha ha! This is seriously my favorite bag!
right on thanks Ryan! I'll get this one up eventually, it's on my list forsure
Hi! What's the best cloth to use to apply the neatsfoot? Do you dilute it at all?
Hi! I need help. My question is: does the oil transfer to your clothes? I have a leather backpack that could really use some mink or neatsfoot oil but i don' t know whether it would stain all my t-shirts or not, which would render it practically unusable.
Hi I have this vintage chanel bag, I did some repair on the leather with leather cleaner and it make the leather look very dull. It looses the shines of the leather. How to make my bag shiny again instead of Matte.
Thank you
I started to experiment with veg tan, which is quite hard (and even more so after applying water-based dyes), so I wanted to soften it and rubbed in some Fiebing's neatsfoot oil, though it smells intensely with ... beef soup? marrow bones? It completely beats the natural smell of leather that I like. Does it change with time? Any advise there please? :)
Thoughts on coconut oil?
I've had a suede leather rifle case for many years. This last year I had it stored (no gun inside) in a very humid room and it molded during the summer months. I used a mild soap and water this late summer to clean it. Yes, it hardened the leather a bit from the soap and water. This week I brushed it and removed the mold and vacuumed it clean. Unfortunately, the leather will never look new again as a result of my stupid storing...mold. I don't dare use Neatsfoot oil or mink oil on it, but it definitely needs treating and moisturizing. It's a medium brown leather and I'd like to give it another 10 years of life by revitalizing it. What do you suggest? - Tim
Hi! Is applying solely coconut oil bad for leather?
How do you stop a hand bag from bleeding oil if it's over oiled?
quick question, does it help to warm up the bag instead of the oil? I do that with my boots before i mink oil them
It looks way better after you oiled it.
If you get neatsfootoil then I would recommend to buy some vitamin C or other ascorbic acid to make the oil stable .You can only use it on heavy daily used leather goods so the oil will evaporate before going rancid .The oil will smell rancid to begin with.
What do you think of putting the Neatsfoot oil in a new microwave bowel and heat it up a little that way instead of a stove? And I've read some people say to only put Neatsfoot oil on the flesh side and not on the grain. They didn't say why though.
Does Neatsfoot oil cause any issue with a top coat adhering to the leather?
Just want to ask if you know one that is similar to Smiths that I can get from australia. Its almost near impossible or costing me an arm and leg to get smiths. Is there another brand/balm that you can reccomand that is like smiths? I want to achieve little to no darkening. thank you
What is vegan? It doesn't eat meat? I like you checked out different kinds this was helpful. Thanks. You live next to a river? Was hearing water on the porch.
I want to do this to my tool pouch and im not sure how because inside the pouch is rough suede. Ideas?
Is it only suppose to go on the smooth side of leather? Cause i put it on the rough side and always looks uneven
People generally say you should instead use the Pure Neatsfoot oil on leather instead of the Compound.
Does anyone know what ingredients Chamberlain's products uses? A problem I have with Chamberlain's is they don't disclose their ingredients. I don't feel comfortable letting something completely unknown soak into the my leather goods' fibers.
hi i would like to know why you heated the oil
You should get a cooking oil spray bottle like a misto. It's almost like having an airbrush application. And its cheap, made for oils, and made of metal so you can still heat the oil up.
that's a great tip thank you! I'll pick one up
Used leather is good leather. And all leather has its own character. Don't fret over the uneven tone.
What would you recommend for Horween leather?
Think that the end result looks 100% better than what you started off with. To tell you the truth you are probably the only person who will notice the difference between the straps. So unless you show people the difference most people won't notice because it looks like it's supposed to be that way.
The bag before the oil looked unfinished, like you skipped some sort of step before putting the bag together. Maybe that's the look you wanted, but to me it didn't really look like a leather bag.
So yeah, I think the finished bag looks awesome!
I am buying natural veg tanned. Oiling with neatsfoot before dyeing will effect the consistency of dye color & look on leather?... Or its safer to oil it after dyeing?