Get a perfect dye every time with vegetable tanned leather - full guide
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- čas přidán 15. 05. 2021
- Learn how I dye my natural vegetable tanned leather pieces using Neatsfoot oil, Fiebing's Pro Dye (or Oil Dye) and Saphir Renovateur.
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I make and restore leather products in my spare time, mostly bags, backpacks and small items like wallets and card-holders. I am still learning a ton every time I take on a new project and always appreciate feedback on my creations.
For the moment I don't take orders as I like to spend too many hours getting the finished product as good as I can : this means that if I were to sell these bags, the selling price would be way more than the bags are worth due to the hours of work involved.
As always, do let me know what you think of this video. If you have any tips or comments please let me know by dropping a comment below this video :)
Out of all the leather dying videos out there, this is by far the method I've had the most success with so thank you.
So glad to hear this helps :)
I have never dyed leather before and this information was extremely helpful. Thank you!
Pleased to hear this can help :)
Thanks James. I've always had issues with streakiness and the leather getting too dark - diluting with alcohol seems to remedy that. Greatly appreciated
Thanks for your message Dan, so pleased this could help :)
Moisturise (moisturize?) is the word you were looking for. Source: 500 bottles my wife has in our bathroom I have no clue what they are for and why there are so many.
Hahahah loved this message, thanks for sharing! :D
He’s a French who learned English from the English… they spell things weird… the even spell “realize” as “realise” and “tires” as “tyres” him not knowing the right word to use at the right time is a common result of this💀 english has way too many variations, I don’t blame him at all
Know what you mean but my late wife DID look nice and smooth ! ! ! .
@@davidbnsmessex.5953 oh dear, that is funny and grim.. Sorry to hear that mate.
Wow! That's the best video on leather dying I've seen! Subbed!
Super informative video. Thank you so much, James!
I have been dyeing my leather incorrectly this whole time. Thank you for opening my eyes.
same here bud, i just started leathercrafting and i dyed a piece yesterday, and clearly i did it all wrong lol darn, guess i gotta buy more veg tan hides now 👀
Very informative James, very helpful. Thanks
Thank you, glad this helps!
Thank you very much for all the great advice you share with us !!!
Very good procedure!!!
Thanks, glad you like it :)
Thank you for your hard work and great videos. im bran new to leather work but rapidly finding it is a true joy to create . again thank you and God bless you and youjrs.
Thank you for your kind words, I'm pleased to hear these can help others discover this craft!
very helpful, thank you so much!
Great video, thank you James.
You're welcome :)
nice finished color
Very clear info.
This makes a lot of sense👍 Thank you!🙏
Thank you for the help.
Hi, very nice looking finish. Did you add another coating to prevent dye color rub off after the renovateur? Thanks.
Crazy nice!
I appreciate that simple tip of keeping the paint on the left side if your right handed. Perfect for a clutz like me,
Glad this can help :)
Thank you dude!
You're welcome!
Thanks very much awesome info
Glad this helps!
Great video! I love your style and explanations. Its refreshing to listen to you. Quick question... I am planning on using the pro dye products and using Mink oil for a conditioner to dye my leather as well as a similar finishing product I've found....but I am a tad confused about the timing of everything. I understand the order of things but how long should I wait between each coat of dye/applying conditioner/applying finish? By the looks of this video, you've only waited until it's dry to the touch? I am not questioning your methods, just wanting some clarification as to how to get the result I want. Someone I spoke to said 12 hours between coats and different stages but it doesn't seem like this is how you've done it.
So pleased this video can be of help to you!
It's recommended to let your dye dry for several hours then buff off the excess dye with a cloth before moving on to the next step of your process. However I've found that, if you don't mind a bit more rub-off in the next stages, you only need to wait 10 minutes between coats.
The downside of this is that your leather may not be perfectly dry when you start the next step of your build which could cause rub-off as mentioned above, or just make the leather a bit harder to work with.
In any case I always suggest testing thoroughly as the results will vary depending on your leather, the products you use and the temperature and moisture in your work area.
tkank you vééry muche, le resultat est magnifique.
Thank you, glad you like it :)
I use the same technique as yours but I didn't use to pre-moisturize (???) the leather with oils.
I'll try your method since I always color myself the leather of my creations. Thanks
There is actually a difference with the pro dye and regular dye! Both dyes have alcohol, but the difference is the dye carrier. Pro dye uses oil as the carrier, and the regular uses powder as a carrier 😊. I was specifically trying to find a video where someone oiled the leather first, so thank you!
Thank you for the added insight :D
Glad this video helped!
@@JamesBerry it definitely did, and I didn't mean to come across as a know it all in the SLIGHTEST but like I said I looked through so many videos trying to find one where the leather was oiled first, and that's where I picked up that information literally 40 minutes before watching your video. 😅
I‘m looking into making a horizontal carry Buck 110 sheath (very original in know). Would you recommend dyeing before the wet forming or after?
Great video. Very helpful. If I wanted to dye the leather and then put in a mold to give it shape would you do that right after dyeing the leather?
Are you still doing 50/50 with the oil dye ? A thumbs up and a new subscriber.
Fiebings leather dye and Pro dye are both alcohol based!
The difference is that the leather dye is powder pigmented and the Pro is oil based pigmented.
Exactly, thanks for the clarification :D
Thanks much turned out beautifully. My question is to minimize using these products should one just buy a oil tanned leather?
Oil tanned leather is a bit different in feel and the way it's worked - for example it can be hard to get a consistent burnish on an oil tanned leather.
To answer your question about waist however, it is possible to find vegetable tanned leather that is the color you want. In fact there are quite a lot of tanneries that offer gorgeous colors of leather.
Dying your leather is a good trick to know but you can certainly get around it by purchasing your leather in the color you want from the start.
Just came across your video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I'm re-dyeing a purse. I already deglazed it but it doesn’t seem to absorb the neatsfoot oil well enough. Would you suggest just using mink oil instead.? Do you think it will be absorbed better? The leather is kind of stiff from deglazing but im afraid of using mink oil without asking an expert's advise as it might prevent the dye from getting absorbed properly. Would very much appreciate your answer.
Using neatsfoot oil & beeswax mix, after dyeing will save smoothness of leather, As i dye the leather after cutting for projects.
I am using 50mm Montana Empty Acrylic paint for dyeing... Saves spilling and wastage of dyes on rugs... But a little more time consuming for atleast 3-4 coats for even consistency. 🙏🏽.
did you ever had problem with leather dyeing the clothing when dyed in that way? especially in wet weather conditions, I apply fibings sheen but sometimes got that colouring issue. thanks for video!
love you bro
Thank you :D
Thank you for sharing!
Hi James, can I have quick question? I have a cognac brown vegetable tanned leather travel bag and accidently some red nail polish was spilled over it. I tried to clean it with leather cleaner cream but the stains only got lighter in colour. Can you please suggest a solution? Do I need to dye the bag to get rid of it? Many thanks
Thank you for a very informative video! Can you coat with Saphir Renovatuer after application of Neatsfoot oil?
You can indeed but make sure you give the neatsfoot oil time to seep into the leather and dry out a bit before using the saphir. Not sure how it will react if there's too much oil in there.
Hi James and Thank You for the valued information! 2 questions - is it better to cut your pcs to size prior to dying (thus making sure the edges are also colored - planning on Royal Blue on natural veg-tanned) and what about the backside if it will also be exposed? Does dying the flesh side present any particular problems/issues?
Hello Richard, you can definitely cut the leather first but I sometimes find it more complicated to get an even dye - larger surfaces enable you to have larger movements and be more precise with the dye application.
I always stay away from dying the backside and haven't found a good way of dying this (yet). The backside always absorbes dies much faster (like 3 to 4 times more) so you will need a ton of dye to get the job done and it will be a nightmare to get even. Moreover, the added dye dries out the leather way more than I like, meaning you're likely to damage the leather more than anything else.
Hope this helps!
Wonderful, do you have any courses?
Can isopropanol be used to mix with the dye
Is it ok to use olive oil instead of neats foot oil?
How do you seal/finish the leather to prevent ruboff from this point? It looks beautiful - but it's clearly still leaving heavy rub-off
Can you dilute it with another other alcohol, like isopropyl alcohol?
How long do you let the neatsfoot oil dry before applying the dye? Thank you so much for making this video!
I tend to give it a minute or two to soak in but not much longer. Glad I can help :)
This is by far the best video out there bout dying leather. I have a quick question that is quasi-related. The term "corrected grain," as far as I know it, means that the leather has been sanded down on the grain side (not the fuzzy flesh side) so that the grain becomes perfectly uniform. In this video, at 07:42, there is a large "crease" or line in the grain. I do not have a problem with these kinds of things, as they bring character, at the risk of sounding cliche. But... do you know how one might "correct the grain" on a DIY level? I basically never moved on from the 4 year old toddler phase of asking... why... why... how... why... so, I just want to know everything. Also... I have this idea that it would just be a good skill to know for that one time where you only have one piece of leather large enough for some project... but it has a nasty scar or something.
Hi Michael and thank you for your message :)
These lines are generally crease lines or fat lines in the skin of the cow and are simply due to the natural life of the animal. To my knowledge there is no way of getting rid of these (but others may know more on this topic).
Some leathers have what's called "corrected grain" where the very top layer of the leather has been removed to ensure an even surface. I have never heard of anyone doing this on a DIY level so I don't know if it can be done.
Sorry I can't be of any more help in this.
To my eyes, these "blemishes" can really bring character to a piece and are a clear indication that you have top-grain leather which is by far the strongest and most durable types of leather. Can you use these lines as accents in your piece?
Hi thanks for the tutorial! I dyed my vegetable tanned leather shoes after deglazing them and dying with the feibings black dye (not the pro dye). They were originally black and for stupid reasons I had to strip the original color and dye it black again myself.
After deglazing and dying them with several even coats (letting them dry, and then applying another coat, buffing them, etc.) I noticed the dye seemed to leave a faint white coat or mist, and at times still seemed uneven. This is after using resolene and tan kote And yet the surface color remained dull, uneven, and lacking the luster and patina I was looking for.
Even though I finally found some small solution to the problem by gently buffing with a chamois cloth to even out the dye, I am still dissatisfied with the result.
What would you suggest to achieve the best most even die job and luster or patina that I am looking for? I really would rather not go through the whole process of deglazing and dying the shoes all over again, so I was wondering if I might achieve the results by applying several layers of the pro dye instead? I have also been considering different brands of dye, but I am unsure exactly what sources to trust as the dye I chose came from lengthy, careful consideration through several sources.
I am just looking for a deep, even black dye job that will produce a luster and patina worthy of the quality of the leather it will be applied to. Any advice or tips you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Hahaha . . . moistening or moisturizing . . . ? We get it. Anyway, gorgeous. Excellent technique. I need that Renovateur for my leather goods.
Hahah thanks Melissa x)
Yeah I'm a huge fan of Saphir Renovateur and use it constantly!
the last apply, are those cream? like conditioner?
Thanks for posting. How is the rub off after your procedure? That is what I am dealing with with my knife sheaths. I rub constantly after drying and I always seem to get a little each time. I am going to try your technique
Hi Charles, with this technique I have had no recorded issues with rub off. I make sure not to oversaturate the leather with dies and give it plenty of time to dry before adding the Renovateur on top.
If you're worried about rub-off I could suggest a strong buffing after the dye has been applied and before you seel it with you wax, top-coat or renovateur.
Hope this helps!
How would you go about removing the dye. if you wanted to paint the leather?
Hi can you make a video of dyeing vegetable tanned leather of using natural brown dye
Thx for the info. I have done it wrong...
Hey! I don't know if you answer questions from older videos but I figured I'd give it a shot. In the last part of the video there was a bit of rub off on the piece of cloth - is it something that will get better once you let the leather dry, or should I look into putting another finishing product on top to prevent it?
Rub off is always going to happen at first. To minimize this, try to remove as much extra dye with a cloth after each step and make sure to seal the dye in using a good wax.
If in doubt, keep rubbing ;)
@@JamesBerry I appreciate the response, thanks for the tips!
For several years when I did leathercraft I used wood dyes with great success and a lot cheaper than 'leather dye'.
That's a very interesting idea, I'll have to test :o
thanks for this video! Hoping maybe you can shed some insight... I want to get a Galen Leather Company undyed vegetable tanned leather planner cover and dye it burgundy... but Fiebing doesn't have burgundy in the ProDye. Is there any way to use the Fiebing regular dye in burgundy without drying out the leather too much? Can I oil it extra ahead of time or something?? I'm also thinking I might be able to mix the red pro-dye with a brown, kind of like you did here? But I'm such a newbie! Thanks in advance!
maybe I can mix in a few drops of the royal blue to the red?? to make a sort of purple...hopefully burgundy... color?
I loved this video! So much information! I have been taking old leather shoes and dyeing them different colors. After I dye them and add conditioner, what product do you recommend to seal them so the color doesn't bleed onto anything else? I don't want much shine, just a good sheen. Thank you!
Thank you for your message Peggy!
I've always used Saphir Renovateur for my final conditioning as it leaves a nice hard waxed surface once dry and buffed off. Then I'll use a hard wax for the final polish.
This has always done a great job protecting my leather after dying and I've never had issues with the dye rubbing off.
Thank you for your response! Which hard wax would you recommend?
Yes keen to also know an example of a hard wax please 🙏🏻
@@JamesBerry Pinging this - what kind of hard wax do you recommend? What product are you using for your final waxing?
How would you go about getting a tea core effect?
Can I dye the same way to dye suede leather? Pls advice
I need info on dyeing braintan.
Very nice tutorial, After dyeing using water based dye. Is it ok to skip on neatsfoot oil or ot is necessary? Does Applying leather balm and carnauba creme will do the job after dyeing. Will it prevent dye rub off? To avoid staining clothes? Thanks
If you're using a water based dye I would actually recommend doing the following:
1. Clean the leather with alcohol / deglazer
2 Dye with water based dye
3. Apply light coat of leather balm
4. add a protective coat to seal in the pigments
Hope this helps :)
@@JamesBerry thank you so much, I will try it.
Thanks! Do you use the same process when dying the other side?
I NEVER dye the other side, I've never been able to get a consistant finish on it and will line the back with another piece of leather if it's going to be visible.
Good job, keep experimenting. Do you put another coat of neatsfoot oil after this Saphire product or just finish like Acrylic resolene? After what time? How many coats? Do you dilute finish also? Will it darken colour and harden leather? Regards
Thanks for your message! For the moment I haven't experimented with other processes - now that I've found what works for me I'm sticking to that.
That being said there are some great ideas for future tests and videos in your suggestion!
@@JamesBerry I just wonder if I leave Saphir Renovateur on top of belt it won't colour clothes? Especially when sweat or water get into. I usually put acrylic resolene on top. It's too shiny after few coats for me but I dilute it with water 50:50 and put slowly to reduce micro bubbles. It works fine for me but leather becomes stiffer after using resolene. I like natural smooth and softness, carnauba cream is good but don't provide waterproof property and dye trousers that's why I asked about Renovateur as finish coat.
Perfect ! I want to make french jumping saddles. Where can i buy vegetable tanned leather full grain in France ?
I always use DecoCuir as a supply for Vegtan leather: they have a great choice at good prices and the quality is always good (for the price).
I have never been dissapointed though I'm sorry they don't offer higher quality leather still (for special pieces and orders)
What difference would there be in doing neatsfoot oil before or after you dye? Seems like to me you may get a more even dye if you dye first with pro oil, and then apply the neatsfoot oil afterwards?
I feel (maybe wrongly) that adding oil first helps the dye spread more evenly into the piece. As the leather is already damp from the oil, the dye can flow into the fibers better and thus spread out a bit more, leaving fewer marks, dark spots and differences.
I'm happy to be proven wrong though and would always say that results will vary greatly depending on your leather and dye :)
Also, your overall technique in dye application will have a much greater effect on your end piece than oiling before or after will.
Neatsfoot oil prior to dying is a neat trick to try. You mention cutting your dye with alcohol. What type? What % of water? Denatured Alcohol? Which works best?
Use isopropylic alcohol
Glad this video can help! Unfortunately I've only ever used one type of alcohol in this process as it's what I have access to most readily.
I always use 100% Ethanol but I'm sure there are others that would work just as well. You may want to ask other crafters this one.
@@JamesBerry I had a look at obtaining ethanol absolute and either cant get hold of it or it’s around £150/L.
Is that right?! Am I looking at the wrong thing?
If what I’m seeing is correct I might try other cutting liquids as that’s a bit too spendy for me as a hobbyist!
Fantastic video though! Thanks!
@@paulwoodley489 I think that surgical spirit BP should work it has 90% Ethanol and it's very cheap
Looks like you are still getting some dye rubbing off after the conditioner was added. Do you add anything else to the top to stop the dye bleed? I could see this being an issue if someone wears light colored pants or coat and their purse or belt left color behind from friction contact.
I have always added some hard wax on top and have never had issues with dye rubbing off on cloths or anything. Not sure if this would be true also for water based dyes.
where do i get the cloth for buffing?
does the wax act as a sealant as well? ive only ever dyed ~> applied resolene so curious on this one
Yes it does to an extent. It's never going to keep the weather out completely but it does help.
That being said I've never used resolene as I've always found the finish on pieces I've seen to look a bit too fake/plastic.
@@JamesBerry yeah resolene definitely gives it a glossy look. Thanks for the input
Is there a natural plant dye for leather?
Hey James I'll like to know the name of the oil you were using before dying the leather please
Hi Gloria, it's called Neatsfoot Oil. Hope this helps!
Have you happened to see the patina on an item dyed this way after, let’s say, a year or two? I am making a custom belt for someone who specifically wants to get a teacore effect where the dye wears off to reveal the natural veg tan color in high stress areas. Do you feel that this method will achieve that?
Hi there - I've never had issues using this technique with dye bleed or brush-off. It's always stayed the colour I wanted it. This is due to making sure the dye is properly applied, the extra pigments brushed off, then the leather protected with wax.
On the other hand, it's always aged as expected and darkened very slowly with use. I've not seen any fading or teacore effect on the pieces using this technique.
So I'm afraid I can't help you here :/
@@JamesBerry No worries, this helps a lot actually! It may be a tall order to achieve the teacore effect without using leather that was originally tanned that way with mimosa or what not. Maybe paint is a better way to go to ensure that the pigment only stays at the top of the grain.
Salve vorrei sapere per favore perché quando passo la tinta base alcolica a volte rimangono delle parti dove non prende bene? Grazie
How do you tell if it's vegetable tanned ?
I just got an armor set and it's not the right color. I need to dye it. It almost seems like it's got a shine on it. I'm assuming I will need to remove the shine or sealant on it then dye it??
Any advice would be helpful!!
Without seeing or feeling the leather it's going to be impossible for me to help you on this... I would strongly suggest reaching out to the person/shop you bought the armor for with this same question as the answer could vary greatly depending on the type of leather used and the finish that was added to it.
@Zachary Phelan, to get rid of the coating/sheen, try to user Fiebing’s deglazer. If you’re not sure whether your leather is veg/mineral tan, use the burning test trick. Green residue means chromium, mineral tan, not veg. See demo here: czcams.com/video/_R7Tq9fb-WU/video.html&feature=emb_imp_woyt You can still use Fiebing Leather dyes on mineral tan, as far as I know, though.
Hi, 🙏🏽, How can i avoid dye stains on flesh side edges, while dyeing on Grain side of natural veg tanned? Any advice me please
Hi and thanks for your question. For me the most important part is making sure your not oversaturating your leather in dye and keeping your work surface clean.
Is it the same steps to recolour leather? A bag?
That completely depends on the leather used and the finishes that's on there :/
I can't recommend trying this on leather you don't know.
I purchased veg tanned leather sneakers, but I'm not completely happy with the colour(sort of dark orange), so I was thinking about applying a darker shade shoe paste, but because it's veg tanned, I thought maybe it won't work properly, so I searched for a video hoping to find some help.
Any recommendations, anyone? 😊
will a light coat of olive oil do instead of the neats oil?
Hiya, it will work to a certain extent.
While it will help a bit, if your leather required more than a light coat this will not be enough. Keep in mind that olive oil can go bad and leave messy residue on your leather, so you really can't use much.
A slightly better alternative is pure coconut oil.
If you can't find Neatsfoot oil I recommend finding a nourishing leather milk/balm/cream (something nice and liquid). These can be found quite cheap in most supermarkets in the shoe polish isle.
Hope this helps!
The additional alcohol is a requirement for all dyes like Angelus? Also, it has to be ethanol?
It's definitely not a requirement but it allows you to take things slower and get a more even coverage. Also the type of alcohol doesn't really change much - I use ethanol because I can get it in large quantities. Just make sure to always test first before working on big pieces!
@@JamesBerry awesome, thanks for the clarification!
This is why I don't like dying anymore. It's almost impossible to get rid of the streaks and lines.
If you can find leather in the right color from the start that's definitely the best/easiest way to go. If you can't however, good dying technique will go a long way and very soon the lines and streaks disapear.
Apparently Pro Dye is illegal to sell in the state I live in, so i am forced to use the alternative. Is the process the same or is it different with the regular alcohol dye? My only concern about using the regular dye is the rub off, which is far greater than the Pro Dye.
Are you also in California? 😅 Did you ever find an alternative?
@@darkwriter_xx94 i am in California . Lol. I think i might just make a trip to Vegas and get some there. For now i just gotta buff the hell out of my dyed pieces.
Why is Pro Dye illegal to sell?
@@noelle1314 Because California is basically North Korea of USA. It has probably something to do with VOC content.
Fed up with strike marks of dyes while using wool daubers. 😥😥😥... HD SPONGE is OK to avoid those marks?
Absolutely, a soft sponge would work well for this.
That being said it's practically impossible to get the dye on perfectly so your best bet may be to dilute the dye and apply more coats.
@@JamesBerry How can i avoid dye stains on flesh side edges, while dyeing on Grain side of natural veg tanned? Any advice me please🙏🏽
I'm quite literally just getting started into real leather working, and I think I messed up. I skipped straight to the dying step and didn't dilute the dye at all. I'm using Eco Flo dye, and the instructions didn't mention oil or anything. Is my leather still going to work?
Don't worry, making mistakes is part of the process. With any luck your leather will be fine.
Let it first dry out completely for a couple of hours then slowly, lightly and for as long as needed, rub off the excess dye with a rag (cotton if possible).
Your leather may have dried up a bit and need a light coat of neatsfoot oil or liquid conditioner to bring it back to normal.
I'm not used to using Eco Flo dye but I believe it's water based, so even though the color will turn out way darker than you may have originally wanted, it shouldn't do much harm to your leather.
Hope this helps and have fun crafting :)
Eco Flo are water based dyes, you may dilute them with water.
So, you treat the leather BEFORE you cut and make the project?
As much as possible yes.
Working on a larger surface helps minimize differences between pieces from dye to dye.
I was under the impression the only difference with leather dye and pro dye is the pro dye has more alcohol.
What if you/we used RIT powder dye with alcohol... Could we refine our own colors?
This is the first time I hear about RIT powder... I will have to investigate :o
Hello.. man from the future... I've tried every RIT dye and combination of... hundreds of dollars... it doesn't work. 😢 it dries out soo bad and doesn't take oil or conditioner well at all
I tried to order the dye you suggested. I live in California and it won’t ship to California. I can only get the eco water based. How should I go about getting a good dye with water based and keep leather soft?
Ah shoot, I'm afraid I have little to no experience using water based dies... That being said I would start by avoiding oversaturating your leather, maybe lightly wetting the leather with a sponge and water first, then use a light coat of neatsfool oil once it's dry to bring back some suppleness to the leather.
Contact Fiebing's at their factory in New Jersey, they made the products and should tell you where you can buy it in US
you can go to savmor Leather Supply in Los Angeles if your in so cal
I thought you need to apply a finish to lock in the color?
It really depends on your dye and process. I've never had bleed with this method as long as I'm not adding in too much dye and making sure to buff off as much of the excess as possible. Then, adding a hard wax has always been sufficient for me.
If you're not sure I would definitely say add a finish to lock in the dye.
ㅇㄷ 가죽염색
I thoroughly enjoyed the video, but the way you folded that paper towel @ 2:00, hurt every ounce of my being. Gotta love OCD.
Oh man, so sorry to hear I triggered you on that one, I know the feeling ... though I'm glad this didn't spoil the video too badly for you!
@@JamesBerry Not even, at all. Great video again!
You don’t “have”to use oil dye for veg tan leathers. simply oiling your leather on both sides before you dye it works just fine. Been doing it for years. 😉🙂🙂