Hinge cutting safety and control Part 3
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- čas přidán 27. 01. 2015
- In Part 2 of this Hinge Cutting for Deer Habitat Tutorial, Jim Brauker...
WWW.EXTREMEDEERHABITAT.COM
...covers the need for a goal when hinge cutting. In the example shown here Jim is creating a tornado zone of downed trees to create a barrier for deer downwind of his stand location. Using a west wind in the evening, he can let his wind blow into the area, which deer will be circling around on both sides making their way from bedding to the west to food to the east.
He reveals how to hinge cut carefully, keeping the tree intact in the travel zone around the edges of the barrier zone, and how to rapidly cut trees for the barrier area without worrying so much about them staying intact.
if half my teachers in school explained things as well as you have i'd be a brain surgeon. great job
Great information! This is useful for any tree cutting. All the skills I see here gives me greater confidence, even cutting smaller trees at home.
This dudes an expert. Great learning!!!
Best videos on the web.
This Sir, is the only reasonable (series of) video(s) on teaching felling trees I found so far. Thank you for showing and explaining the how to and the why to do so.
Plunge cut behind the hinge and cutting to the back will **"LESSEN"** the change of a barber chair because you have the back wood holding the tree in place until you are ready the release it.
I prefer the Humbolt face cut then a plunge cut Behind the hinge to set the with 1", 2" 3", ect....from both sides if necessary, follow by cutting from the hing to the back.....using wedges where necessary.....and then a finish cut on the last 1" to 3" about....differences in felling depends on; the tree, ground, is the canape hung up, is there near by widowmaker close by, that should come out first, spring pole's, your escape route, ect....There a many thing's to take in to account when felling a tree. No two tree's are going to be felled the same way.... Now this is for more experienced fellers.....Not for beginner's you should have a pro or experienced feller teach you this.... (("There is one more thing I do if my bar is to short to overlap behind the hinge and that is a bore cut through the middle of the hinge to cut out the center wood, face to back.")).....
Now if you made it this far I would suggest Husqvarna video's for felling trees and other pro's.
Thank you for sharing. I have 7 acres that I have been working on from property barriers to bedding large food plot and kill plots and hinge cutting . This has definitely helped raising the deer herd numbers and I see more deer because of this.
I just want to thank you for this great series. I've learned a lot and feel I understand now, how important it is to know about tree felling and how to do it safely. I know it can be dangerous to try felling trees without a good foundation to gain experience on. That's quite a skill displayed here ...I'm going to tell my son to subscribe and watch these. .. well done. Glenn
Lots of them survive.
A really nice series of videos. Your explanations are excellent. You're a great teacher. I love my Silky!
Great info packed video. Thank You!!!
Did this kind of work when I was a young man , I remember cutting browse trees during a bad winter in NEPA
excellent video, very helpful , THANK YOU
It is interesting that there are many chainsaw buyer's out there who just assume that a straight horizontal or angled cut on a tree is all that is needed. So many chainsaw buyers begin without knowing anything about tree cutting or the hazards involved. That is scary! Those guys who lean ladders against the tree and cut branches are among the scariest.
Hmmm going to have to get with my brother and see if he would be interested in doing this on his property. There is a really nice deer trail going through the wooded part of his property.
I have little understanding on how trees die or survive. Would you explain to us what you are doing to keep the trees alive and how they grow when horizontal ? Thanks for great videos.
What’s your “go-to” chain saw?
insane!! creating a barber chair !?! and more
what is the long pole called?? can civilians buy it somewhere?? is it available at big box stores like menards??
Shawn O' Conner habitat hook. Google it and order. Expensive tho
How long will a hinge cut tree stay alive?
Plunge cut behind the hinge and cutting to the back will **"LESSEN"** the change of a barber chair because you have the back wood holding the tree in place until you are ready the release it.
I prefer the Humbolt face cut then a plunge cut Behind the hinge to set the with 1", 2" 3", ect....from both sides if necessary, follow by cutting from the hing to the back.....using wedges where necessary.....and then a finish cut on the last 1" to 3" about....differences in felling depends on; the tree, ground, is the canape hung up, is there near by widowmaker close by, that should come out first, spring pole's, your escape route, ect....There a many thing's to take in to account when felling a tree. No two tree's are going to be felled the same way.... Now this is for more experienced fellers.....Not for beginner's you should have a pro or experienced feller teach you this.... (("There is one more thing I do if my bar is to short to overlap behind the hinge and that is a bore cut through the middle of the hinge to cut out the center wood, face to back.")).....Now if you made it this far I would suggest Husqvarna video's for felling trees and other pro's.
This man is certainly skilled at what he is doing. If you don't have a lot of experience, I do not recommend trying this technique. It is basically a "controlled" barber chair and a LOT of things can go wrong very quickly and different trees will react differently. Please do not try this unless you have many years of experience.
I would imagine that what type of tree would have very much to do with it.
I did this work for about 5 years but our trees are different in this region of the country.
Great videos. I'd love to hear more directional strategy. Also, never thought I would see someone hinge cut and not think to myself, "dummy." On the tall crazy pine that barber chaired in one of the "bloopers," wouldn't using a plunge cut be a better way to release a pine with that kind of lean?
Plunge cut behind the hinge and cutting to the back will **"LESSEN"** the change of a barber chair because you have the back wood holding the tree in place until you are ready the release it.
I prefer the Humbolt face cut then a plunge cut Behind the hinge to set the with 1", 2" 3", ect....from both sides if necessary, follow by cutting from the hing to the back.....using wedges where necessary.....and then a finish cut on the last 1" to 3" about....differences in felling depends on; the tree, ground, is the canape hung up, is there near by widowmaker close by, that should come out first, spring pole's, your escape route, ect....There a many thing's to take in to account when felling a tree. No two tree's are going to be felled the same way.... Now this is for more experienced fellers.....Not for beginner's you should have a pro or experienced feller teach you this.... (("There is one more thing I do if my bar is to short to overlap behind the hinge and that is a bore cut through the middle of the hinge to cut out the center wood, face to back.")).....
Now if you made it this far I would suggest Husqvarna video's for felling trees and other pro's.
Sound????
Can anyone tell me what kind of tree that is at 17:20 in?
shouldibehere Elm.
Thanks. I appreciate that. Well done series, by the way. I learned quite a bit, and I subbed.
Yeah, that looks like a white elm. They do fall as other trees do, because the bark and tree itself, will tear. When you are cutting a limb on one, and you have it roped off, you can cut it, and won't just fall to the ground. You sometimes have to cut all the way THROUGH each time, to get it to separate, or fall. Piss elm is the same way. They are hell to split for firewood, would not advise that to anyone.
In the midwest, we have those everywhere. Used to line the streets until the Dutch Elm virus destroyed almost all of them. Good shade tree, but limbs will break, and HANG in the tree for ages unless you remove them.
Should be "do not fall"......speed error!
I appreciate the knowledge presented here on how to properly cut a tree, thanks.
I do however have to offer my criticism on why you would wreck your nice Forrest just to shoot some deer? Would it no have been easier to just put up some fencing in the area you wanted to prevent the deer from entering? Some T post and light fencing to surround that area. Heck, use the standing trees as the fence posts.
Deer are lazy like we are, they take the path of least resistance. They are not going to jump even a 4' fence unless enticed by something they need (food, water). And, simply put up a heavy fishing line a few feet from the fence, and they wont even go up to the fence. No need to cut down that nice forest to channel the deer. Heck, I would be tapping those maples for some delicious Syrup!
But hey, if you have lots of acres and don't care or another 50 years you can watch that Forrest regrow. I have some acres to look after, but I'd plant a small food plot (scatter method is easy) at edge of that field and put stands on on all sides. No tree cutting needed! Keep them trees for your stands.
Oh and on the "sent block hurricane zone", that is not going to stop your sent from being picked up if the wind is at anything more than a whisper. ESPECIALLY by any mature deer you want to shoot. Your scent is going to fan out beyond that zone easily in my opinion, scaring those deer away before you even see em from bedding to your stand position. Your prevailing wind and bedding area are just not "aligned well". In this situation I'd put stand in the flank and plant food plot in that little "nook" to entice them out into range.
Hey that my 2 cents, like anyone cares.....lol.
He didn't wreck his woods. He created dense undergrowth. Look at the picture at 19:20.
I cant imagine any of those trees surviving
if his scent control system works so good why does he need the tornado zone. if you do this in your woods you will be eliminating a large percentage of potential buyers in the future if you decide to sell
Every one just wait until he has a unseasonal dry spring, summer,fall and a lighting storm goes through, all that cut stuff will go up like tender then there will be no more deer hunting for a decade or 3.
LMAO