AnyCubic Kobra 3 Combo Full Review!
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
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It's good to know that it doesn't require both the purge system and the prime tower, as it does feel redundant to use both. Will be interesting to test it myself which way uses less waste, depending on the project.
Anycubic does not have a trustworthy history with regards to opensource and Klipper. Their "KlipperOS" used on the Kobra 2 line is in violation of a bunch of open source project licenses. As a K2Pro owner myself its troublesome.
They don't ignore all user request to open source the firmware as well. The kobra 3 is pretty much a kobra 2 pro by the looks of it. Finally they decided to open source the kobra3 when no one seems interested in it. I have the kobra 2 pro as well, so frustrating not being able to access any of the settings in klipper.
I'm going to see how it goes with user experiences for the kobra 3 first. I don't want another kobra 2 pro in silver with just multicolor added to it. I'll wait until they sell the multicolor for use with older printers.
Thanks for the in depth review breathlessly waiting for mine to ship. I'm not in the UK but if I was I would definitely shop with you guys.
If you had to pick a winer anycubic korba 3 combo or Bambu a1 combo witch would you pick if you could only buy one?
I will take a Bambu A1 Combo👌
If you want something that you pull out of the box, install a few screws, turn it on, and start getting good prints right away, get the Bambu, even its its like $100 more.
Nice! Actually looks pretty solid. Maybe some tuning left to be done on print quality, but the ACE appears to be a competent color changer.
Hi, can you share the Orca profile? Please
У них стоит профиль от K1 Max
Hi could you share your orcaslicer profile please
I'm just bothered by mine doing 2 purges with a single filament when the ACE is connected but only one purge cycle when I use the external spool holder, can't seem to figure out how to get it to only purge once before printing a single color print while using the ACE.
Can you place the ACE unit under the table?
Hi thanks for your comment! The instructions for the machine state that it must be kept to the left of the printer. However as far as we can tell the only thing limiting where you can put the ACE unit is the length of the cables and boden tubes.
It's very much like the BL A1. This is great competition and means even more advancements. 👍
And we couldn't replace the purge tower with an STL that we didn't care if it was of various colors and thus we wouldn't waste so much filament
please answer the question
"This printer can print ABS and other abrasive materials when you don't want to print in color, that is, directly from the spool to the extruder without the ACE PRO. And if I enclose it, could it print ABS, polycarbonate, or nylon?"
If enclosed there is no reason why you couldn't print with ABS, polycarbonate or nylon.
You would need a harden steel nozzle for anything abrasive, but the extruder is shipped with hardened steel gears.
thanks for the review ...iis this machine is for the beginner or not?
Thanks for your comment! I would say so yes. Out of the box it is pretty much plug and play, then as you get more knowledge it gives you the opportunity to experiment with multi colour and different filament types down the line.
How about mixing material for supports? If you print with PLA/PET and use PET/PLA as the Supports, do the supports just fall off with very clean undersides?
Petg as support on PLA , and reverse, works fine
Not super clean every time, but close and much better than ordinary support
Will they be adding g support for the 3MF formats to the slicer.?
Thanks for your question! We are using Anycubic Slicer 1.4.3 and have had no problems importing 3mf files.
Sure, just go check what Anycubic did the Kobra 2 and Pro, you'd better wait 6 months AFTER they actually release the firmware ;)
Please share the orca profile😊
Can you use the ACE with a separate TPU spool?
I'm looking for a non-dual extruder that will let me print a captured TPU hinge within a PLA box.
I don't believe you can. I have Bambu labs A1 and mini the problem is that when you use tpu from the spool it's direct drive from the print head. The ACE/AMS is what retracts the filament for a different material. Since you have to feed TPU directly there is no way for it to pull the tpu out for a materiel switch or in for that material since it's feeding from the direct drive in the print head. . I'm not even sure that is possible with the higher level bambu labs Core X/Y printers.
@@dtarot I believe you are correct. Apparently you must have multiple extruders to embed TPU. Hopefully the 2 head Prusa will get cheaper...
Thanks for your comment! What dtarot is saying is correct. TPU needs to feed directly into the extruder but by doing that there is no way to swap another filament in. We did try putting TPU in the ACE but it was unable to push the filament through the boden tube due to it being so flexible.
Generally using using several different material in the same head can cause a lot of issues, cross-contamination (pla and tpu dont realy bond.), since its really hard to get rid of the really small tpu string they tend to end up in the pla causing layer problems. Optimal printing temperature, you will have to chose to print one cold or one to hot. There's a reason idex exists.
Slicers still don't really support any accel/speed changes while changing materials you can limit volumetric flow in most slicers but it can only do so much.
You are just better off designing around multipart prints.
Some more unsolicited advice i would also recommend of switching to a PETG TPU setup if you really want to print multi material.
Profile for orca slicer?
How easy/ hard is it to set up to run TPU? simple swap or will i have to dig out tools?
Thanks for your comment! It is just a case of unplugging the ACE and taking out the PTFE tubes which are just held in by push fit fittings. Nice and easy, no tools required!
Can you use the purge to create a new model?
No reason why you couldn't add your own stl to replace the purge tower in Orca slicer.
Any Printer that is not built for 250-300mms printing on a regular basis for case of wear and tear on parts? Rubbish That's an excuse for any company to have not solid enough quality components. Also Just mount the Spool Unit under the table or make a housing to have it over head its not hard so it doesn't take up 1metre space at all
Thank you for your comments, we do state the max print speed for this machine is 600mm/s but recommend printing at 300mm/s to maintain print quality and premature wear of the parts. We setup the printer on a table, and only provided the space required for the set up we have used as this will be how most people will run the machine.
hi how to change the filament from the ace ???
Thanks for your comment! It's really easy, all you do is press retract on the printers menu to unload the filament from the extruder. Then just gently pull the filament out of the ACE.
@@123-3D-UK tks! have you preset for orca ?? anylab sucks
please share your orca profile
Bro you have spent way too much money on printers to not know what a prime tower is and what it's used for.
Thanks for your comment! During our testing we tried printing both with and without a prime tower, we found it wasn't necessary and reduced print time and filament waste.
Prime towers are a waste of time.
Would it be possible to take a picture of the K3 from the bottom and share it? I am wondering whether or not my "squash feet" from K2 will fit or if I will have to modify them?
Hi thanks for your question! We have just measured the feet and they are 36mm x 20.5mm rectangles that are rounded at one end.
@@123-3D-UK Thanks. I got the printer meanwhile. And it seems the feet on K3 are much better than those on K2 as the printer does not "travel" on the table. Now I only need a profile for Orca Slicer :-)
might look similar to the A1 but its not. The Kobra 3 and slicer is made from or based on Prusa MMU which is nothing like the Bambu AMS so there is some quirky things that goes on with it... they tried to make it like the AMS but use prusa MMU slicer.. their slicer is subpar if that to bambu slicer, it doesnt handle coloring very well.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the multi-colour towers are not actually "Purge towers" but rather "Prime towers" and are used to prime the colour, make sure there's no colour bleed, etc. I have an X1 Carbon and if I do a print with only height changes, like a Hueforge or a sign, I deactivate the prime tower but keep the flushing volume to 1.0.
In prints with lots of colour changes (more than 100) I can lower the flushing volume to 0.6 or 0.7 and use the prime tower to make sure there's no colour bleed and the filament cost is usually very low. Thanks for the detailed review!