Setting Up An Air-Cooled Grow Light-The Right Way!
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- čas přidán 5. 05. 2013
- Want to know how to set up an air-cooled HID grow light for your indoor garden? Check out this speedy four-minute tutorial that takes you through all the dos and don'ts including whether to suck or blow air over your air-cooled reflector.
- Jak na to + styl
Having heat issues trying to setup my tent. Have a air cooled light, carbon filter, 435 CFM exhaust fan, and speed controller for fan,. Little confused though because my first question is do I have the light hooked up right? Exhaust from the side where the bulb screws or the side it doesn't? Probably makes no difference but I am having problems. I also have no ducting yet going from the side where the bulb screws in to where it would be going to the carbon filter. Seeing how haven't anything to grow yet I improvised and set the lights 18 inches from the floor and am monitoring the temps there as well as the very top of the tent. And I have a temp gauge setting on top of the light fixture. At 18 inches it has read as high as 88 degrees. Middle temps are at 68 degrees. Confused because I figure I should have higher temps there too? Also am running a heat set at different levels in the 70's. The tent is setup in my garage and I am filtering the air back into the garage only.
Just wondering if I should just set it up like this that I think you recommend? Two steps. One filter and exhaust and out. Second being the light fixture (air cooled) Ducting- Light- Ducting straight out both vents? Or should I be getting another exhaust fan and go carbon filter to ducting to exhaust fan and out vent?
I 2nd the what is that collar called that connects fan to light with a support connection point on it?
Hello,
In your diagram at 4:06 if you removed one light could that ducting be run with one fan pushing air through the system? or would the tee'd line create problems?
I have a fan to cool a HID light, and an extraction fan and an air intake fan in a flower chamber 3 X 3 X 5 - i know it is best to have two separate exhausts... but as a last resort to having a 3rd hole in the wall is there any way to combine the two exhausts without the fans fighting each other? experimenting with a "wye" adapter turnaround backwards with a divider inside to try to stop the back flow - but i have to turn one fan down to 4 for it to work and i know that the fan for the HID light is being stressed.
I think every GR has different scenarios when applying - or + air pressure to the lights heat output in regards to it's placement.
Thanks for the video. Extremely useful.
Thanks guys :) appreciated!
Does it matter which end the air is blowing in the reflector? From behind the bulb or from the front? Behind being the screw end of the bulb and front being the glass end of the bulb?
Thanks Conneryg - that's an interesting idea for a video. We'll try and tackle it soon.
Will blowing through an air cooled hood (filter-fan-hood-ducting out of tent) create negative pressure?
I have a quick question how many cfm per sq ft should be used with air cooled reflectors ?
Good video thanks!!!
Yo man i was curious exactly wut inline fan tht is because i just picked up a used one and thts the model cant find the cfm on it 435?
only for smell concerns would i blow the air (positive pressure) over the lamps. sucking or negative pressure is much more efficient and removes much more hot lamp heat. if smell is not a concern....suck the air out....placing the fan as close to the exit opening as possible. this method works especially well when daisy chaining multiple lamps. for really long runs the best setup hands down is having 2 fans. one at the beginning blowing and the other at the end sucking.
important to remember that if you opt to "push" the air that you make sure you glass is sealed or else you will be pushing hot air all over you crop. i personally went for the "suck" and placed the inline fan in the attic along with a o3 emitter for any unfiltered ions that make it through
Can the exit of the scrubber be shared with a y connecter with the exit of hot air from air cooled light system?
Is the process the same if it's on a light mover?
good stuff
I have a question is the math to figure out the cfm for an air cooled good the same as the math used to figure out a grow room ventilation sizing?
what i experienced is when ending off two fans og a y there will be some kind of turbulense,maybe one stream is stronger than the other and can make back draft sending smell out in my room..i fixed it by fastening a fan on the out vent and connectet the y to the fan...
do i have to use a fan like the vortex ones can i use a booster fan ? instead my room is 5x2x10 6 inch 260 cfm
I know this is old by I have your 8 in reflector and it's a pain in the ass I wish it was a 6 inch a lot of 8inch products online exaust etc are hard to come by can I use a 6 inch reducer
Seems like the fan that close to the heat source will affect the fan and blades in a negative way,ie melting.
what are those clamps you use and where can I get them, do they support the full weight of the fan?
Insulated duct clamps.
good setup idea... I like the idea of using 2 separate channels, one for lights and another for odor, but if you would upgrade to bigger ducting/inline fan, shouldn't be a need for 4 inline fans unless you got a huge room.. I may have just misunderstood also
Hi Everest. Quick question. @04:08 in the Mainline cool air duct, why does there need to be an exit since individual fans will be drawing from it to cool each light?
I'm trying to understand everything to the T. Awesome video like always. Thanks!
Evis Daison
Your question makes very little sense, or is too vague.
the fresh air is drawn in just to cool the lights, then that air is exhausted - then there is also fresh air drawn in that is just for the garden for the itself. the fans that cool the light get fresh air cool lights then exit that hot air out the garden
Great video! how do you incorporate a carbon filter in this extraction? looking to set up two 600w hps, I don't want heat issues but I also want the carbon filter somehow incorporated into this equation without having to buy another fan. Basically I want to blow over the bulbs, while bringing cool air in and extracting the heat while scrubbing the air. Thank you
John Doe 2 years, no answer. This is my question as well.
Ann Smith This might not work out in practice, but theoretically, couldnt you set up the carbon filter, mount the inline fan onto it, then run ductingfrom the fan, through the reflector, and then exhaust it out of then tent/room? Basically just adding a reflector into your extraction system? I dont actually grow so could be talking out my arse, but just a thought?
@@JackMMA93 This would create negative pressure inside tent using the warmest air in your tent. Also every additonal twist and bend will reduce the fans effective cfm. You could have the carbon filter outside of the tent with its own fan but that would be a huge waste. won't some one with real experience shatter my theories.
Pedro Torres isnt negative pressure better to stop smell etc? Makes almost like a vacuum to suck all air thru the extraction (and more importantly the filter)?
@@JackMMA93 The cooling system for your air-cooled grow lights must be separate from your garden's ventilation system. The input air should be drawn from outside of your garden, not simply pulled through a carbon filter inside your garden or grow tent. This is the way
Filters are good for cooling and removing smell for C02 source in your tent Master Grow C02 Generator Bags work great no fuel no electricity sold on ebay or amazon
Hey can I use this similar setup on my sunsystem 2 hps light I have the one with the built in ballast enclosed in the housing. I already have an exhaust fan drawing air out
joe z Hi Joe Z. Thanks for your question. Yes, the Sun System 2 is the one with the built-in ballast, but the reflector is not designed to be air-cooled. In order to enjoy the benefits of air-cooled lighting you would need to buy an air-cooled hood (e.g. Magnum XXXL, the Blockbuster, Evolution, Luxor, Super Sun, Blazer, Great White) and a separate ballast (e.g. Galaxy, Galaxy Grow Amp, Hortilux Gold / Platinum) - I suggest asking at your local grow store. I'm sure they can hook you up.
i thought of using my cupboard for growing because i have a whole in my cupboard at the bottom & i evened it out..then they installed this thing in my bathroom that draws air or steam out & i also have a hole in the ceiling in my cupboard..i was thinking if i went with my cupboard for growing then id have to tutu with the lights & add a connection to my room but f**k thats alot..plus..dont like spiderwebs on me..i fattened up so dont got overalls..
Just curious as to what that connection piece is called? The one in the video that holds the fan directly to the hood? Thanks a lot guys 🙌
Ooor Naaah did you ever find out?i have the same question
@@timothylucero8700 Search noise reduction clamps.
Ooor Naaah
Fc mounting clamp
Hey could you try this software? peruse circuit solver on the playstore!
What about calculations regarding the size of fan to use? how many cfm for 2 x 1000 watt HPS with 6 inch ducting and pre-intake filter? Does the length of the ducting effect the calcs? Insulated? Also could you reuse this hot air to mix into your lung room to warm it up for the main intake to the room?, my lung room is pulling cold canadian winter air? Thanks for dropping the knowledge, trying to suck it up like a sponge.
+jerome sabourin Hi Jerome-thanks for your comment and questions. When using air cooled reflectors with a non-sealed optic chamber (i.e. the air passes directly over the lamp itself) you want a gentle breeze, not a strong wind-so, choose a fan with the same diameter as your reflectors (usually 6" or 8") and attach it to a speed controller so you can dial it down to 35% or thereabouts. Ducting does decrease pressure but, like I said, you really just want a breeze-so I wouldn't worry too much about that. If you are drawing the cooling air for your AC reflectors from another source (i.e. not your garden, and not the lung room) then there's no reason why you couldn't fill your lung room with the extracted warm air from your hoods. If you are having problems with cold then maybe air-cooled hoods aren't necessary? Try to take your lung room's air from another room inside the building if possible.
+Everest Fernandez (Just4Growers) thanks for the reply, your explanations and videos are why i feel i can tackle such an undertaking!. im working in a low ceiling area (6.8 feet), even though its a small grow (2 x 1000 watt) with 4 x 8 ebb/flow table (active garden volume 220 CFM), i figured the air cooled lights would be required due to my low ceilings and the proximity to the lights those plants will get. My concerns are around the fresh air required. i can get 'fresh' air from my second half of my basement but i dont know if that would provide the volume of air required to refresh the room without a hole to the outside. with a hole to the outside my basement gets a lot colder (hence the worry about cold canadian air).. I am over thinking things to much? Should i just draw my intake (room/lights) from the other half of the basement (old farmhouse, old unused ducting connected from basement to other parts of the house). then just vent the air from the light and room outside?
+jerome sabourin Hi Jerome-I say start by keeping it simple as you say. Keep an eye on your minimum and maximum temperatures using a min/max thermometer. Attach your garden's main extraction fan to a thermostatically controlled fan speed controller so that it extracts less air when temperatures are cooler. Consider a block heater for the nighttime.
+Everest Fernandez (Just4Growers) thanks so much for taking time to answer my newbie grower questions. much love and respect from Canada (soon to be the land of the free).
Hey Everest, thanks for making these great informative videos, and also for taking the time to answer questions. I would like to know why, when people talk about selecting the right fan, they normally just talk about the size of the fan (typically 6" or 8") rather than the amount of air it moves(cfm)? Seems like it would make more sense to speak of the latter.
Chris Igaz Hi Chris. First off, thanks for the positivity +++ much appreciated! As a committed generalist, I try my best to give full and accessible answers to all the questions I receive and, if I get stumped, I have a big black book of industry specialists to call on, so together, we can get to the bottom of most grow questions, I hope!
Please Chris, don't forget to sub the channel so you get updates when I post new vids. As for your point, certainly CFMs can vary considerably between fan brands / models of the same duct diameter-so I agree that it's best practice to speak in terms of CFMs.
Note: CFMs can still be confusing because our metric friends in Europe prefer CMHs (cubic meters per hour), although the conversion between the two is fairly straight forward. (CFM X 1.7 = CMH, so 100 CFMs = 170 CMHs - easy!)
Everest Fernandez Thanks for the prompt response! I was actually subscribed to the channel when I posted that last night, not really sure what happened there but I've since unsubscribed and resubscribed so hopefully it's showing that now. Glad to hear we're on the same page as far as CFM(CMH)s. Is there a general rule for the amount of air you would want to move through a hood in order to cool it?
Chris Igaz Hi Chris, thanks for subbing the channel. Much appreciated. Cooling hoods is a funny one. Yes-it works great to reduce excess heat problems at source-but, on the flip side, the light generated from discharge grow lamps is a side-effect of the heat caused by the electrical flow through the arc tube! You can't have the light without the immense heat! Over-cooling your lamps, therefore, will adversely affect spectral distribution and intensity. I have seen this for myself in certified light labs (with a metal halide 1000W) and a spectrometer. SO-to answer your question, you want a breeze flowing past your lamps, not a gust! I have my 6" Magnum XXXLs cooled by a 6" Hyper Fan set to 35% (the lowest the speed controller will go). Alas, the % on the speed controller doesn't necessarily correlate with 35% of the CFMs, but we're probably talking < 100 CFMs.
Everest Fernandez I forgot to mention, Chris, that over-cooling your lamps causes your e-ballast to work harder and use more power too! :-(
Everest Fernandez You are a gentleman and a scholar Everest, can't say thank you enough for letting me pick your brain.
Will this also ventilate the air of a grow room or would I still need to set up exhaust and intake systems?
Ideally your grow room’s ventilation (fresh air in, stale air out) should be separate from your air cooled grow light ventilation system so you can truly realize the benefit.
Everest Fernandez thank you, also I find your videos to be the most detailed and helpful out of all the endless hours of CZcams videos about growing. Keep up the good work!
You say its best to have your inline fan blowing across the bulb in an air cooled hood vs sucking however, what about if you're using a passive intake setup? I'm using a 600W HPS (Hortilux Super HPS, magnetic SG Ballast) in a 6" air cooled hood with a 430cfm 6" inline fan. I built my own DIY grow box from 2x2's & black/white poly plastic, it is: 4' wide x 6-1/2' tall x 2' deep, it was originally designed to be used in a closet, thus the small 2' depth. I have it setup with the 6" inline attached directly to the hood (opposite of the socket/bulb end) sucking, then I have ducting connecting the fan/hood to a flange on the side of my box venting out into the room (don't have the option to vent anywhere else atm), then on the other end of the hood I have a dust filter. I know its not an ideal setup but its working fairly well, temps average between 78-81 & its getting cooler as winter approaches, so in about a month or so we should have no issues with heat at all. I have 2 x 8" vents on both sides of the box (staggered from each other) about 6" from the bottom. I'm wondering if I should increase the size of the vents & then use velcro, duct tape & cardboard to close them off some if ever need be. Let me know what you think. I know its very difficult to advise someone on their setup without actually seeing it but just use your imagination & do your best, any advice will be appreciated. Thanks for your time.
+William C83 Hi William. Okay, so I put my imagination hat on and I think I have your grow pictured in my mind's eye! :) The one thing I don't know is the size of the room in which your grow box is located. As you are venting from your box back into your room, the size of the room is important as your air is essentially being recirculated rather than fully exchanged. While heat is a critical environmental factor to stay on top of, there are also two other potential issues to bear in mind: humidity and carbon dioxide. First humidity: when your plants grow larger, they will transpire exponentially more moisture into the air-remember that up to 90 - 95% of the moisture your plants uptake simply passes through the plant and is released into the air as vapor. Many species of plants when they are in generative development (budding, flowering, fruiting phase) prefer a lower relative humidity in the 40 - 45 percent range, so you may run into high humidity issues by not properly venting your grow box's air out-basically the air is 'full' of moisture leaving precious little room for your plants to transpire healthily. Carbon dioxide is a problem of undersupply. Even though we are fast approaching 400 PPMs of CO2 in the atmosphere, it can quickly become depleted in a set-up like the one you describe. Typically these problems creep up on growers-I call it the "glass ceiling"-as carbon dioxide becomes increasingly scarce in the air and plants are unable to perform basic photosynthesis processes.
So-if there's any way you can vent out of your room, do it. If that means your room gets a little cooler, so be it-you can always insulate and / or use heaters in the dark cycle. If space is tight why don't you set up your extraction fan outside of your grow box so that it sucks through your intake filter and then duct it into your grow box, pushing the cool, filtered air through your hood. This would free up a bit of space for a separate extraction fan for your grow box itself which you could then control separately and duct to the outside world if possible. You could use a 'Y' piece at your extraction point to accept ducting from both your hood and your garden.
I hope this advice helps and that I managed to capture all the important points! Feel free to keep asking questions! Always happy to help. Hope you're subscribed! Peace and happy growing, Everest.
Everest Fernandez
Thanks for the prompt response. I'm in a hurry atm but I just wanted to say thanks & that my RH has been stable at 50% so far, not ideal for week 3 of flowering (1 plant is actually in week 5) but its not bad, at least not yet. I am a lil concerned about RH rising in the coming weeks but we'll just buy a dehumidifier if need be. I'll explain more about my setup & what I would like to do to improve it later tonight after work, but for right now my 6 plants are THRIVING! We're using the full Advanced Line from Nectar For The Gods as well as very high quality, organic actively aerated compost tea, I've never grown happier, healthier plants in my life, NO JOKE! Thanks again, take care & as always, KEEP EM GREEN!
+William C83 Hey William, I'm glad to hear that your plants are thriving. Hey, if it ain't broke, no need to fix anything! :) Is there any way you can vent to the outside world or is it practically difficult?
is it a good idea to run a 10 inch fan with a reducer through 8 inch duct holes on the lamp shroud
Damien Goodfellow Hi Damien. Thanks for your question. Reducers reduce airflow, obviously, but I don't see this as a problem in this case as you shouldn't be pushing too much air over your lamps anyway. I run my air-cooled hoods' fan at 35% speed.
What is that collar called that is clamping the fan onto the light? It also has a hoist point on top.
Hi Brandon. Sorry for the delayed response. They are called "Noise Reduction Clamps - Neoprene Lined" made by Ideal Air.
Thx
Do you need to out a filter before the extraction fan or do the fans usually have them or what? I heard the filters are like 70 bucks for inline filter??
anyone plz answer. I need to know how to prevent dust and things from getting in a/c light hood.
Britton Whitfield Hey Britton, thanks for your question. You definitely need an "intake filter" to clean your incoming air for your air-cooled hoods. You don't want to be any blowing dust in there. I consider intake filters to be absolutely essential (beyond just "best practice") when running air-cooled hoods. www.phreshfilter.com/products/phresh-intake-filters.aspx
Britton Whitfield Please subscribe to my channel Britton. My next video covers intake filters as it happens. :)
Depends on filter make/style and design they even make special filters to fit in tight areas and yes I've seen them cost from 60 --$300 maybe even more for commercial grow rooms
I made a vid of my set up yesterday it's my first one if you wanna check it out
Do there for on gavita 1250
just curios if you can use a air-cooled hood without a fan going through it and just throw a carbon filter in the tent?
I always recommend using an air-cooled hood with a fan directly attached (blowing) through the fixture on a low speed.
your tent will get too hot if you don't remove the hot air.
Hi Robin, there's no reason you couldn't join two exits with a Y.
I read that glass covers filter UV light which reduces THC and trichome development, that is one reason Sun System has no glass cover. Thoughts?
The amount of UV produced by HPS lamps is negligible, but yes the glass filters it out.
1000 watt bulbs don’t care huge flowers
Hi,
I know in the video you stated you're running 6 AC reflectors, but I noticed that all 8 outlets on the Titan controller are being used. Are the remaining 2 being used for exhaust fans?
Yes, it can be used to power the fans used for cooling the hoods too.
Thank you sir.
+Ha Dang Always a pleasure, Ha.
Hey Everest, how many CFMs per 600 watt reflector are recommended to cool them enough but not too much? Would a 250 cfm fan cool two 600 watt reflectors effectively?
Yes it would be fine - you don’t want to blow too much air directly over lamps - just a gentle breeze. Get a fan with a built-in / included speed controller.
@@Just4Growers You are a legend Everest! I will he running 4 600 watt lights in cooled reflectors. Two 600 watt Ceramic High Pressure Sodium and two 600 watt metal halide. I don't need to cool the room at all just the lights. Do you think I could get away with using 1 250 cfm fan to cool all 4? I know the last will be hotter but if it's not crazy hot that would still work.
@@Just4Growers Or would it be better to get one larger fan that's adjustable and just turn it down and cool all 4 with 1 fan instead if two smaller fans?
@@Just4Growers Picked up a variable speed AC Infinity fan, going to run a y split to cool two sets of 2 lights, then a y split to exhaust both out of a single point. Thanks for all your help!
Darrell
Had decided on using two 600 watt hps lights but after watching your video am now considering 1000 watt hps. First time grower. Help.
Darrell Pittman Hi Darrell. Thanks for stopping by! First time grower? Stick with your initial plan of 2 x 600W HPS. I love 600W grow lights-they are so much easier to use and forgiving than 1000W.
What is the name of the connector between the fan and reflector?
Crates HQ Ideal Air Noise Reduction Clamps-Neoprene Lined.
If you buy a ballast, multiple reflectors and multiple MH and HPS wouldn't the cost be similar to buying a decent LED grow light. Everest I always love you videos and hope to have a professional garden like you but what is you opinion in LEDs or have u ever wanted to try it? I've got a DIY 4x4x6 and I've got a viperspectra par450 running. I'm hopefully getting a supplementary 300W Viperspectra. The Par 450 was $189 and the 300 goes for $89.
+Mike Sam I've got several different LED fixtures in for testing. Super excited. Nice way to dip your toe in is re-lamping one of your existing T5 HO fixtures with some higher wattage (I.e. Built for growing intensively not just for efficiency and low power consumption) LED T5 strips like the iSunlight. Sun Par fixtures were next addition - grow and bloom. Then I'm throwing the net out a little wider, including some commercial LED fixtures. Stay tuned for vids. Peace!
Everest Fernandez I upgraded from multiple CFL bulbs to a Viparspectra PAR450. I've got a tiny 4x2x4 so it's perfect for my small greens
So what if you dont have a cool place to blow cold air into light? Cuz im growing in my garage.
cooler air not cold air
So not seeing where you hookup the filter at????????
is it a bad idea to reduce an 8" extractor fan to 4"?
Yes
Suck or Blow? You show it both ways if I don't care about the smell then it really don't matter does it?
Yeah it does. Sucking that heat through you're fan shortens the fuck out of you're fans life. Common sense.
can you run a aircooled reflector with no glass panel ? and if so could you run the air cooled set up with a carbon filter to act as your extractor set up ie kill two birds with one stone ?
+twinscroll turbo Hi Twinscroll. Thanks for your question. Yes, you can run air-cooled hoods minus the glass panel. It makes more sense when using reflectors like the AC/DE (separate optic chamber and cooling by convection to the air cooled part above) rather than the regular AC hoods that cool the lamp by passing air over it directly. There's nothing to stop you filtering the air you use to push through your hoods, but that implies that the filter is located in your garden. To really benefit from air-cooled hoods you should ideally take your cooling air from outside of your garden (separate ventilation systems for garden and hoods) but I realise that this isn't an option for everybody.
Everest Fernandez
thanks for the info really apreciate it!, running a extractor and filter system for the garden and a seperate extractor system for the cooling of the fan is fine for me i just thought i could maybe make things easier than having two seperate extractors as two is going to be loud! lol, for me i think running with no glass panel makes more sense as i want to reduce the heat but not completely remove it (gets cold here) and i guess should help with air flow to
Okay you sound normal in this video, speak like this 🎲🤙🏻
so you ideally need 2 inline fans?
for the meantime - until Sept, can I just suck hot air from inside the tent into a carbon filter then into the air cooled hood and have the inline fan sucking it out and exhausting out the window??
Like this set up:www.growweedeasy.com/sites/growweedeasy.com/files/carbon-filter-exhaust-system.jpg
Interesting related video here: Does air-cooling your grow light decrease PAR output / intensity?
Here's my problem my inline fan pushes so much air it cools bulb down and shuts it down turning fan down works but I don't feel I'm getting enough fresh air in or pulling enough heat out
Randall Seeley Hi Randall-here's the thing. Lamps produce light as a side-effect of the heat generated from the discharge of electricity through the arc-tube. Heat first, light second. So over-cooling lamps is definitely a self-defeating thing! Your lamps should be cooled with a gentle breeze of room-temperature air, not a hurricane of icy-cold air! Your lamps shutting down could well be an indicator that they are being over-cooled. I recommend upping your garden's main ventilation instead. Do you live in a hot climate Randall? What temperature air are you pulling into your garden?
I have my grow in a upstairs building with a overhang. I have about 50...3/8's holes drilled in floor allowing an even flow of fresh air to rise without the need of excel products or Co2. I live in New York so yes my seasons change dramatically. I have this problem in warm and cold seasons. I'm not running a filter and yes I believe is pulling to much air to light cooling it too much but I'm trying to get the air to match outdoor natural environment. I reversed the light changing the direction of air flow that seems to be working pushing air in the direction from socket side to end of bulb side.
Randall Seeley You make an interesting points about lamp direction Randall. It's something I've thought about but I'm not sure it makes any difference. How's the insulation in your building?
I have 2x4 walls with r13 insulation then plywood on both sides and then white tyvek up for moister and reflection so it's very air sealed allowing only fresh air from floor to rise.
Randall Seeley Sounds like a nice set-up Randall-I can't overstate the importance of good insulation, otherwise you really are fighting a losing battle from the get-go, so that's good to hear!
My room measures 13 x 11 (143 sq.ft), ceiling height is 7.5 so total cubic feet is about 1072. I have 4 HPS lights with total wattage at 2400. If I'm understanding this video correctly along with a posting below by Stuart Lakin my current setup is totally wrong (LOL). I have my activated carbon filter on the floor. On top of the filter is a Y. On top of the Y is ducting connected to my first two lights and then ducting connected to my 2nd two lights and then another Y and then my exhaust fan (400 CFM). Thus my fan is "sucking" not blowing. So basically what I need to do is take my carbon filter off the Y and put exhaust fans before my lightst? I'm also using an inline fan (449 CFM) to bring fresh outside air into my room.
Generosity Popo Hello again G. Here are my suggestions: 1) Locate your carbon filter as high as possible / suspend securely from ceiling so that you extract the warmest air! 2) Separate your garden's ventilation system from your air-cooled hoods' ventilation. Ideally, use air from outside your garden to cool your hoods. 3) Attach a bug screen or intake filter to both your air cooled hoods' ventilation and your active air input. 4) Push air over your hoods, don't suck, for reasons stated in the vid. 5) Upgrade your garden's extraction fan to at least 1200 CFMs. (10 or 12 ").
Let me know if that is clear. Any questions-fire them over. Don't forget our Facebook group too. And thanks for subbing the channel. Much appreciated. :)
Only confusion to me is #5, when you say extraction fan are you referring to (a) inline fan blowing cool outside air over hoods; (b) inline fan blowing cool outside air into room itself (active air input) or exhaust hooked to carbon filter exhausting air out of room? Also what is your opinion on having intake and outtake (exhaust) near each other (in a fashion similar to dual hose portable ac's). I realize having airflow run in a straight line is preferable as opposed to "looping back" but that presents obstacles. Thanks so much. What is the FB page?
Generosity Popo Hi G. With regards to #5 in my last comment, I was referring to the inline fan hooked up to the carbon filter tasked with exhausting air out of the room. I recommend maximizing the distance between intake and exhaust. If that's tricky, use an oscillating fan to disperse the incoming air evenly in your garden to maximize the benefits of that fresh air for your plants and the garden's overall environment. Finally, for the FB page, go to Facebook and look up Just4Growers or find my personal profile: Everest Fernandez. Peace out.
Ok, gonna pick your brain a few more times Everest and then I'm done (LOL). I have the 3 fans, the biggest of which is a 10" 760CFM Thunder fan. I can hook that to my carbon filter. The other two fans I have are 400 and 449CFM's. I have 4 air-cooled hoods set up in two rows of two. I thought it might be best to use one fan for each set of hoods instead of trying to blow cool air using only one fan and a Y. Thoughts? Also, since I'd like to set this up only once, my outer/shady wall is located under my deck. I can easily take in cool air from there and blow it straight over my lights. In the winter I can likely divert the heat from the lights to help in heating my home. However, my options now, for extracting the heat are limited to (a) my veg room, which also contains the door to my bulkhead (cellar stairs leading to outside) or (b) my boiler room which houses my furnace and is hot as heck already. Yikes! Thoughts? Last but not least, should I be concerned about drawing in moisture from outside in cooling my hoods? Is that dangerous to my bulbs? Thanks
Generosity Popo So that's the 10" Thunder for your garden's extraction, and your 400 and 449 CFM fans for each of your two rows of air-cooled hoods. Whether you use one fan or two to cool your hoods is a matter of preference. Both have pros and cons. One fan means one single point of failure. Two fans spreads the risk. (This might be a glass half empty / full kind of thing!) One fan means one intake filter. Are you using just HPS or a mixture of HPS and MH lamps? Remember, MH doesn't like to be air-cooled! (Just my two cents!) Using outdoor air to cool your lamps ... hmmm ... you are subject to wider swings in air temp and humidity which could have adverse effects on your lamps' outputs. I'd take it from indoors-you don't want to be using air much cooler than 55 - 60F to cool your lamps otherwise you'll really be affecting the spectral distribution / intensity too much. Have any of your lamps ever shut down during operation (for no apparent reason?) and then, after waiting a while, they start up okay again? If so, that's a sure sign you're over-cooling your lamps.
Can someone help me out with this question. I can't seem to find the answer anywhere online. I just started building two 10 x 10 grow rooms in my garage. I plan on having two 1000 watt 8 inch air cooled Raptor reflectors inline in each room. How many inches do I spread the 1000 watt 8 inch air cooled Raptor reflectors apart? I keep seeing pictures of reflectors inline but nobody ever seems to say how far apart to put them. Im thinking of spreading them 18 inches apart inline. Thanks.
Hi Papa Tutti. Thank you for your question. You should position your reflectors inline a little closer - my recommendation is 12 inches apart. You have a room 120 inches wide and long, and two reflectors that are 41.5" long each, positioned centrally in the room. 2 X 41.5 = 83" which leaves just 37" of "gap" to fill. This should give you the best overall coverage if you're looking to fill the room with plants.
Thanks Everest. I didn't think about doing the math and measuring out the hoods. The hoods are still in the box. My mind set was picture after picture of two hoods in line with no one saying how far apart to spread them. I double checked your math an your'e right on the money. 12.33 gap from wall to light to light to wall. Again, Thank you very much.
You're welcome PT!
Did you switched to leds already?
@Sean Lock no it's not, it resembles candle light or sunset
Price
never knew there were glass in front of them lights
That information is based on commercial big money growers yes as the amount of electricity to run system like that would be massive when you can for those who like growing indoor fruit connect fan flter cool tube or suck out just as much heat but you did not inform them that blowing cold air over your bulb alters the spectrum of light when lowerd to much professor 👍
nice job on showing how to use scrubbers as well lol. wtf
what if the glass broke on reflector
wtf do u have a brain/common sense . if ur asking that question i'd say u should not be dealing with any of this lol.
That’s like saying “ what if I wrecked my car “?
The fuck
what about carbon filters?
+iShuffleAt Raves Hey iShuffle, if-despite blowing through your lights' ventilation system-you are still concerned with odors, you could consider an inline carbon filter at the end of your ventilation system.
Everest Fernandez no i have one FOR SURE haha... but with a carbon filter the air needs to be pulled through the filter itself?
+iShuffleAt Raves If the carbon filter is reversible the air can be pushed or pulled through the carbon bed, meaning you can place the filter either at the beginning or the end of your garden's extraction system.
What happens in the middle of summer when there's no cool air outside to blow over the lamp?
Hi Julio. Passing warm air over the lamp will still cool it. The air should just be moderate, not too cool, as over-cooling lamps isn't good for them.
Everest Fernandez Great thanks man I appreciate it and keep up the good work!
Julio Barbone run your lights at night ? that might help
the carbon filter is hooked up separate with its own exhaust fan and ducting. you can put it at one end of the cooled reflector but look at it this way... you have an air cooled reflector to manage temps better, so why would you want to suck in hot air through the filter from the grow room into hot air from the lamp then exhaust?? (would not really be doing its job properly) having your own separate cold air feed into the reflector then out through its own exhaust will cool it more efficiently.
This was helpful was fuck lol thank you!!!
Josh a Thanks Josh. Please subscribe!
i dont understand how you filter your intake air, any fan, intake or exhaust leading outside should be scrubbed to avoid bugs, airborne pathogens, dust etc. also how would you take care of smell? no carbon filter on the exhaust fan? your fans will last longer blowing yes, but by sucking you create the negative pressure needed to properly scrub the air, and to counter your argument about air leakage in the lines through sucking, you shouldve tested the whole system before anything was started so as to make sure that there are no air leaks, just like light leaks.
Take a look at the Phresh Intake filter. HEPA do some great intake filters too. Check this video out: czcams.com/video/H3mI1bImaqo/video.html
wow, when everest is not high
Actually there is a difference between pushing or pulling to cool lights. Think of it this way, you know how a vacuum sealer works right?!? Therefore, air cooled lights are designed to suck air out by the engineers, not blowing over the lights...........
Wait that way you're losing you're plants ventilation because there's no air to circling in the tent and getting out constantly...I mean you know...to keep circulating the air..
Air cooled hoods need their own ventilation system in addition to your grow tent’s ventilation system.
leds suck! If you want to yield, and get quality bud, ya gotta use HPS!
I read this lots of time by now by comments, are you an OG grower? Did you grow with LED? (for example with SE3000 or FC3000)
Lol!
Anyone else come here expecting for a computer cooling system?
I touched my new 1,000 watt HPS lamp as I installed it into the new hood/fan ducting and a minute after turning it on, the fucking $109.00 HPS lamp exploded inside the hood!?!?! The seller said it was my fault for touching it bare handed, I say it was defective and want a replacement, so am I really at fault? There wasn't any mention not to touch the lamp itself during installation, in fact I install lightbulbs in my house all the time with my bare hands and they never fucking exploded?! So WTF happened to it? My hands aren't oily, so it wasn't me I don't think.
Never ever install an 1000 watt bulb with your bare hand. The natural oils from your hand will cause the bulb to exploded. Your household bulbs are not build like HID bulbs. You don't pay $100 for household bulbs. HID bulbs get very, very HOT.
bro smoke a joint, no need to call him a jackass when the box didn't state it. the reason some boxes don't say it is because the explosion thing is way way over stated for hps. halogen bulbs will and you cannot handle those because they contain actual gass, while an hps has no gas and is a vacuum. the bulb you touch on an hps is not even the actual buld. the bulb is called an arc tube and is inside the vacuum and you couldn't touch it if you wanted to. " there is a super tiny chance that if EXCESSIVE oil gets on an hps over time the varying temp the oil cause(because unlike water it won't fully evaporate) the integrity of the glass(similar to pouring cold water on a super hot glass) and can weaken the glass in rare cases. the "explosion" however is just the glass breaking while under pressure of vaccum, the arc tub is not exploding and therefor has nothing to do woith it being an hps or mh light it is simply glash breaking from surface temp variation, not an actual fire explosion like halogen. ppl handle hps all the time without incident and many labels contain no warning. that said i would never touch mine anyway, but mostly because the hand oil reduces light getting thru the bulb the same way a dirty glass cover will.
i get that you, like everyone else, read and watched jorge cervantes spread this idea in his publications, but everyone just repeats it without understanding how risky it actually is. jorge was an important and knowledgeable person and likely knows the error of things he used to say now. he also has said it was the water from sweat not oil and that makes the gas explodes, which shows he doesn't know how an hps even works if he is saying gas, which is fine with me because that doesn't mean jorge doesn't know his shit regarding growing plants, he just doesn't know how an hps is built. it does however mean you shouldn't take everything someone says as law just because they are well regarded in their field, especially when they get into a grey area outside their area of expertise. just because you use lights for indoor gardening doesn't mean you know allot about how an hps light works. hell rollitup had a guy take a pic of his hps shining under water in his flooded basement. so the bottom line is the op's bulb WAS DEFECTIVE because the glass integrity was shit before he turned it on if him touching it shattered it in 1 minute.
cool, but still the semantics wasn't my main point. it is very very unliely to happen and the source of it's danger beeing over stated comes from the respected jorge cervantes because literally everyone has seen and read his stuff. the reason i pointed out the explosion stuff was because i wanted it clear it is not a fire hazard type of explosion where your house will burn down if you are not home. although the glass can maim and maybe kill if you are still in the tent, especially if it hit face and neck
he would lose in court if it is not on the package, and at best he is a shitty businessman because he knows it was defective if touching it to screw it in made it shatter in 1minute. it is a rare phenomena and when it does happen it is after many heatings and coolings not the first time you turn it on. good luck, but i'd give a bad review to warn others of bad return policy
BlackSupremist you r stupid
so faulted
turn the cool music off and speak clearly
Paul Breitbach Thanks for your feedback Paul. I made this video some time ago. These days I don't incorporate music. I think the videos are better for it. :) I hope you will consider subbing the channel. Thanks for stopping by.
Open you're ears dude. I mean really some people bitch like a little girl.