Wiring An Outdoor AC Unit
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 07. 2024
- Electric Pro Academy - Real skills to make real money.
Synopsis:
Utility equipment may seem like a daunting DIY task, but with the exception of larger wire gauge, wiring an outdoor AC unit is little different than wiring a light switch. Mounting the components will differ from case-to-case, but in this video Joel will demonstrate how to mount an AC disconnect to brick, run THHN wire through PVC liquid-tight conduit, and make all the necessary electrical connections. Along the way he’ll make recommendations and point out professional details employed daily by Jefferson Electric masters, journeymen, & apprentices that give lifelong certainty to the integrity of the job.
If the instruction in this video is unclear or skew to what you are searching for, feel free to comment below for additional assistance. Got a question or ideas for a future video? Leave a comment below and submit your idea here: forms.clickup.com/f/23xa9-70/...
Thank you for watching; we value your feedback and monitor this channel daily.
Products We’d Recommend:
*EPRO endorses pro-level tools & materials, and receives a small commission for purchases through our links through Amazon & other affiliate programs. We’d be happy to recommend more cost-effective products for DIYers and low-frequency users if you engage with us in the comment section!
[] Siemens 60A 240V General Duty Outdoor Non-Fusible Safety Switch: amzn.to/3f6qDAx
[] Klein Tools 7/8 - 1-3/8 in. Step Drill Bit: amzn.to/32Iy0eT
[] Dewalt 20 Max VR Brushless Hammer Drill (DCD999B): amzn.to/3mVpkbP
[] Fluke 117 Multimeter: amzn.to/3HDFZJ0
[] 3/16" x 1-1/4" Tapcons: amzn.to/3mWmjIf
[] Dewalt 20V Max XR SDS-Plus Rotary Hammer (DCH263): amzn.to/3foIwdD
[] Swanson Magnetic Level: amzn.to/3GaN0Rf
[] iDEAL NOALOX Anti-Oxidant Compound: www.homedepot.com/p/NOALOX-4-...
[] Gardner Bender Duct Seal: www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-B...
[] OSI Quad Clear Caulk: www.homedepot.com/p/OSI-Quad-...
[] ATG Maxiflex Nitrile Gloves: www.homedepot.com/p/ATG-MaxiF...
[] Assorted THHN Wire: www.homedepot.com/b/Electrica...
National Electrical Code (NEC) referenced in this video:
Free Access Here: www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standa...
[] Disconnection of Permanently Connected Appliances [NEC 422.31]
Outline:
0:00 - Introduction
0:37 - Pre-Removal Check-Up
1:03 - Check For Power
3:15 - Shut Off Power
4:02 - Remove Old Disconnect
6:32 - Prep New Disconnect
14:45 - Pre-Drill Mounting Holes
18:30 - Pre-Mount Waterproofing
21:30 - Pigtail Short Wires From Panel (Line Side)
27:04 - Mount New Disconnect
28:24 - Wire Panel-to-Disconnect (Line Side)
32:15 - Remove Disconnect-to-AC Unit (Load Side) conduit
34:40 - Connect New Load Side Conduit
40:20 - Wire Load Side Disconnect
47:14 - Anchor Conduit
49:20 - Wire AC Unit
52:57 - Torque & Test Disconnect
Connect With Us:
Jefferson Electric services residential, commercial, solar, and Tesla systems in Indianapolis, IN.
www.jeffersonelectricllc.com/
/ jeffersonelectric
/ jefferson-electric-llc - Věda a technologie
Learning a lot in the past few weeks. Binge watching you and “Stud Pack”. Man! It helps to see someone taking responsibility for their mistakes and actually saying I don’t know everything and “I’m learning every day”. Thank you from Columbus, Ohio !
Why not either mount disconnect box 2 bricks lower so it is not up against the wet air vent or put a cover plate on the outlet box in the wall and conduit over to the disconnect switch so it is away from the wet air vent?
good someone saved me the comment.
26:12 “ima cut it right here” proceeds with “famous last words” and a big ol smile 😃. Man I just love this content you put out for us Joel!
I would ask why u wouldnt consider a Bell box extension ring blank cover & piece of conduit to allow u to move disconnect to the right away from exhaust
I'm an electrician's apprentice and your videos have been a god send. Thank you for sharing your expertise. Your awesome!
Great tip about leaving a length of insulation on the end of stranded wire when securing it with a grounding screw!
Those maxiflex gloves are honestly the best for eletrical work
That vent should be redirected , but very good video , people should use this as an example of how its done right !! .
I agree as an Canadian Electrician being in the trade for over 30 years I think the bathroom vent caused the rusting of the previous disconnect. I think either redirecting the vent or locating the disconnect away from the vent would prevent moisture problems on the disconnect. Great video I think you do very thorough A+ work from the videos of yours I have watched.
I thought that as well. Even a “x” inch/cm pipe to either angle it further down past the box or up and away. I would imagine up would still cause a problem with water dripping or steam cooling and dropping down. Is there a code for venting? Like distance from the ground. I would think that current set up would possibly raise an eyebrow in an inspection.
Agree
So… question about making your joints in the j-box instead of inside the disconnect box. Doesn’t that j-box fail the readily accessible requirement once you permanently install the disconnect over it? How will the next guy service those joints if there’s a problem?
I already think you would have been better off putting a weatherproof blank cover on the box in the brick and taking some liquid-tight flexible conduit off a hole in the middle of the cover with a 90° connector, running it to the right a bit to get away from the vent, and then just right into the side knockout of the disconnect.
that is a good idea. That would have been a better option
The two numbers on the a/c unit you mention are maximum fuse or maximum over current protection. Which is simply your breaker size. The MCA, minimum circuit ampacity, is your wire size/insulation type.
I just watched the whole video. By far one of the most video regarding disconnect, very detailed and professional. I learned a lot even though I will not ever do it. Thank you for sharing.
Just like to say love your attitude always willing to improve even as a master electrician. A commitment to lifelong learning and CPD and assessing each install on its merits and risks will help to make every install safe, code compliant and better still - above code professional install. Nice tip on the duct seal though I suspect it will probably harden in a few years in an external environment and crack eventually reducing the watertight seal.
Caulking better for long-term?
You can get cheap cans of compressed air that are sold as "office dusters" in the big office-supply places. Great for blowing out drill holes, cabinets and boxes, and all kinds of stuff.
Absolutely the most detailed videos, and explanation impeccable.
I know old video but would it not make more sense to move the disconnect a few inches to the right to clear the vent?
Excellent video! I once saw a guy remove the panel board guts and reverse it. Not sure if that was code, but I witnessed it. Haha
Had to log in and leave a comment. These are the best. Very informative. Learning a lot. Thanks!
Lots of good information. Thanks for putting this up.
Great job!
Glad to see some people still take pride in their workmanship. Keep it up! Very rare these days in America. I really irritates me, that so many people do a half ass job.
Wiring ACs tomorrow for work, great video
Thanks for the great video...
Company I worked for was pretty good on “disposable materials,” you wouldn’t find me working without maxi flex gloves. I know Milwaukee had their own now but the maxi flex are the best imo. Call me fragile, but I don’t like my hands being all beat up and dirty, especially when I have to switch to finish work, take off my dirt gloves and thrown on some clean ones. Give you grip, they even make a thicker winter version that help a lot in winter for short periods of time without sacrificing too much dexterity during Minnesota winters.
You DEF Rock!!! Wish I was closer and could be hired. Keep up the great work
You didn't show double-checking the disconnect for voltage after you turned off the panel breaker's...or did you do that "off-camera"?
I wanted to say that I always twist my stranded wires before any fitting to keep loose strands from possibly not going into the connector and it makes insertion into a connection easier than just loose strands and when torquing down the connection it holds better in my opinion it can’t flatten out as much
@paulbell1835, thank you for your many technical tips!
Sirens: And I took that personally.
9:47 i though he was going to pause and remind the viewers to wear safety glasses while drilling metal, but hes a true warrior.
Great video. I visit a few other of your videos and they are very good. A little long and wordy for what you are installing but as a master electrician I understand. I would recommend this channel to my friends. Great job!
Thanks @bisquick958. We're always working on perfecting the balance of authentic problems/solutions and palatable video length 😅
As a novice. I like the wordiness. I pick up on “best practices”.
Everyone knows a bath exhaust should never vent out directly above an hvac disconnect. It should dump onto the main panel or meter socket.
Ur channel is priceless brother! Thank you
That first ring of ductseal was like a perfect circle haha impressive
I'm new to this channel and every video i watch it has a emergency sirens in
I like your style of teaching, very simple and straight forward.
I had an ac replacement done a few years ago and the crew that did it were very young but, seemed competent. The one problem I had was a couple years later and it was the 6 ga multi stranded wire on the ac lug line in lug.
The young installer improperly stripped the stranded wire and scored the copper. It had broken off o few of the strands after cycling on and off for two years and made for a loose arcing connection, that melted the lug. The repair guy didn't want to admit it was his installers fault and charged for the service call. Would you have charged for a service call when you find a loose connection heating up and arcing after a two year old install from your company?
being a HVAC guy I hate it any time a Dryer vent is near the condenser. That dryer vent killed that disconnect.
Famous last words, I thought, were “Hey y’all, watch this!”
Thank you for your great tutorial. I am a retired electric lineman, but now working on some home projects and I do love the duck seal and the anti oxidant you utilize. Have found some old connections with the aqua seal or bishop in old (like 30 years or older) street light bases still in great shape and bolts and nuts with anti oxidant able to remove.
would it have been feasible to drill your 1/2" KO above the top terminals to allow wire length to the line screws? I know the ground woulda been a little short, but the better reason would have been to lower the disconnect and give it more room under the vent. I wonder if the warm moist shower air being discharged contributed to the rusting of the old one
Remove your load-side KO on the disconnect before mounting it.
Your right about the dept guage and handle. My depth guage won't lock in after maybe 3 uses. I liked it, know I can do the tape on the bit but I liked the depth Guage.
I think I would have moved that disconnect about a foot away from the bath exhaust to keep that daily moist air from corroding the new disconnect. Yes it would have meant a bit more conduit and a couple more clamps, but It would be less corroded in a year.
Is it an exhaust vent or a fresh air intake? If an intake should be no problem for the current location of the new box.
@@briansprague9340 Lol, it's an exhaust for the bathroom fan. And from the amount of rust on the disc box, you can tell they either take long showers or have a lot of people taking showers everyday. It's probably survived 40 years worth of bathroom moisture, but moving it one foot away will keep it out of the direct moisture and looking new longer.
if a box is mounted onto masonry it it considered a damp/wet location so the receptacle has to be rated accordingly, wouldn't the wire need to be rated for that also, since its in the same box?
Great video! Question: Is it still required to mark the white wire to designate it as a load carrier even though you have the red wire attached? just wondering
I love Butyl.....Duct seal sounds awesome.
If you twist that stranded ground wire to the left and then put it under the ground screw it won't flare-out as much while tightening.
I am getting ready to install an emergency shot off for a hot tub. Do you have a video on how to do that?
Wow! Thanks man. I’m susbscribed. I look forward to finishing all your content and learning all I can.
Would it be a good idea to use an exterior junction box over the existing hole and conduit over to the disconnect? That way the length of wire out the hole is less of an issue and then the disconnect can get away from under that exhaust vent.
Oh, someone please start the comment about AC units and breaker/wire size. I love this dispute between electricians.
Nice video, looked through the product links but the torque driver isn't listed. Which one is it?
should a SPD (surge protector) also be added to the disconnect?
So, do you not need a gfci for the AC compressor circuit?
I always take the lid off for ease of install. So much less hassle without that thing banging against your hands all the time. Sometimes they will stay up, but most of the time no. And its simple to remove and reinstall.
I work for a roofing company when we install mast boots for the electricians we use through the roof caulking wonder if that would work like your duct seal
Are NM clamps listed for use with bare THHN/THWN? Also, @ 25:25 you can spot a strand fall off😁
In Ontario, we can use NMD 90 in conduit outside as long as we don’t go below grade. Service entrance conductors must be RW 90 for sunlight and moisture where it comes out of weather head. The neutral can be TWH
Great job! I have that Kline tester also. I really like it.
Ok I'm gonna add my 2cents Carry a couple of BAMBOO SKEWER like from a shiskabob they make for excellent plugs for masonry holes that are to big. They work better that a toothpick
Question, I am the asset manager for multifamily properties that have multiple ac units in one location what do you use to seal the area around where the conduit goes inside the building? I have a picture I would like to send you of what I am talking about - someone has made a makeshift metal plate that goes around the wires, but it is half-assed at best and looks terrible. SURELY there is a product to clean up building exteriors for this? Thank you in advance.
But is that romex connector on the back of the disconnect correct for the thhn you spliced on?
I'm trying to get the same disconnect box, but it says on the product page that it is a non-fusible switch. In the video you did install fuses in there, what am I missing?
wouldn't you just use a non-fused disconnect if you are coming from the service panel with a breaker? Also, how do you size the disconnect to the ac unit?
Do you not need any kind of strain relief where the stranded wires enter your disconnect box?
Several inspectors in my area are requiring everything in the damp or wet location to be approved for those locations,down to the connectors,even if entering the rear of the disconnect. easy enough to drop a short piece of UF from an indoor outlet, however quite of bit of extra work to transition from NM to thhw inside the building, it is debatable, however up to the inspector, and there is nothing worse than having to re-do anything.
Besides stainless steel disconnect switches at incredibly prices, don't they make a nonmetallic variety of approved disconnect switches for wet locations?
Nice video, you did strap your conduit
Did we bond the old metal box with a ground screw...it a junction
❤️Love Your stuff, but, always learning...... I get leaving the bottom clean, but, your in wanted "guests" can still enter. Do you have, or is there, a solution? 😊 thx
This seems relevant so I'm gonna share a story. I was helping out at a library doing an outdoor movie. During the movie a gust of wind came through, the neighboring buildings in between had some old doors and Wood leaning up against the wall that blew down. One of those doors hit the air conditioning unit knocking the fan out of balance and out of alignment so it was making a terrible scraping sound. Thankfully they did not have their disconnect locked so I was able to pull that preventing further damage to the unit and the business had their phone number listed which allowed me to leave them a voice message alerting them to the issue. I got a reply back saying that they came in Monday wondered why it was warm check their messages and immediately found out why.
My point is that I don't think disconnects should be locked in the on position and I'm not sure manufactures really should be allowing this either. And it's definitely not gonna stop air conditioner thefts that's another story. I Came in to church Sunday morning early to set up like I usually do, the sanctuary was warm so somebody poked there head out the door and noticed the whole unit was gone and they didn't even bother to cut the power off at the disconnect right next to it. so locking your disconnect doesn't protect anything (unless it's lockout tag out) especially not with a MasterLock #3....
If you look at where the hole is it's only lockable in the off position... I've never seen a lockable on disconnect, I don't think NEMA or UL would let it fly except for utility stuff
They now make Outside Disconnects for AC Condenser Units with 30 Amp Two Breakers already installed PLUS a Built in GFCI Duplex 120 Volt 20 Amp Receptacle that meets the Code requirement for having a Outside Receptacle Outlet near the AC Unit for HVAC Service Techs if needed .
Umm yea but you still need a separate 120v circuit run to that disconnect
Whenever it rains my AC unit will not stop running for a few hours no matter what the thermometer is set at. If the breaker is switched on, the AC is running. Any ideas on what could be going on? I’m nervous to call someone out for a service call because I think it’s a rare/hard to diagnose issue
Does a breaker trip? Maybe take a look and see if there is water going in somewhere. You could always call them on a sunny day and turn the hose on the AC condenser (not full blast, like hard rain though :)
question. could he have added a small subpanel with breakers instead of a fuse box for the HVAC? I know it's different wiring but would that have worked?
@@ElectricProAcademy thanks. I'm sure you had a good reason to do it that way. Just curious.
Just a quick question would a rotary switch disconnect that is lockable be acceptable instead of a fuse switch pullout disconnect in residential setting? Rotary disconnects are more usually used in industrial settings often with dedicated machinery typically linked to motors. It’s beefier and better weather protected a bit like your new lever throw disconnect which is lockable.
@@ElectricProAcademy exactly sometimes if we go above and beyond the code it’s not an issue as long as it meets all existing codes as well.
I have been thinking about the Leviton rotary switch use. In addition to meeting this I awaits would do a set of technical testing (continuity of ground and current carrying conductors, insulation resistance, line impedance including determining ground fault and short circuit fault currents, testing for extraneous touch currents and voltages, operational time to trip and current tripping if circuit is covered by GFCI protection). It also looks great with rotary switches 👍🏾
I've watched a few videos where electricians talk about bend radius, yet 9 times out 10, the wires in an outlet box just get jammed in. I don't see how that can be avoided, but it seems like a contradiction to me. I'd like to hear your thoughts on that.
So you did use duct seal lol must have started watching after this video. and this j-box to extend wires is why I love copper crimps over wire nuts stranded to solid twist together you can see the ends come thru crimp and verify good crimp nylon snap cap never worry about it agian. Wire nuts especially on 10 or larger I worry about coming loose especially since this will be a buried/hidden connection after disconnect is mounted.
Lot of sirens in that neighborhood 😮
I have to question the use of a electrical box down stream of a bathroom vent outlet.
External AC condensing unit should have a receptacle on the same level and located within 25’ of HVAC equipment 210.63 maybe that was not in the shot? Also that receptacle should be GFCI protected 210.8(A)(3).
Also if you were to apply the 2020 code you could put them on a time-delayed combination and dual function GFCI and AFCI breaker. Time delayed to avoid inadvertent tripping on motor startup and large in-rush currents and other transients (including DC) that either saturate the breakers or cause a sinusoidal transients sufficient to trip these breakers. This has been controversial in states that have adopted the 2020 code like Texas but many electricians really did not fully appreciate the need for a specific type of GFCI/AFCI breaker installing the wrong types caused issues. Albeit even these can be blinded from time to time as many different types of transients can occur from motor operations.
On overcurrent protection with your disconnect you actually have a belt and braces approach which I liked. Fuses at disconnect and breaker at panel.
@@ElectricProAcademy just wanted to say you are incredibly brave and talented to put your work out like this with the intention to improve. I am sure many of us have learnt so much from the work you have shown and for apprentices this is a gold mine so Thankyou for helping the industry and never stop learning this is what will help you to excel.
Does this mean that this setup should be using an "outlet" style (receptacle) instead of the disconnect, or am I misunderstanding? Apologies for not being fully versed in this!
@@BAT-man... not sure what you mean by an outlet receptacle. But outlets/receptacle are placed near and external disconnect to allow the use of corded power tools to service the AC condenser equipment. They can be separate from the disconnect or you can get disconnects which have a GFCI receptacle built into the disconnect as well.
@@mathman0101 Ahhhhh, got it. Thank you for that clarification. That's pretty handy actually. Does the addition of a receptacle to the disconnect affect the size of the breaker that the disconnect/condenser is on, or is it negligible enough to keep the usual 30a breaker for a particular condenser (if that's what it requires)?
@@BAT-man... disconnects depending on the motor/compressor rating can be single pole (120v single phase) or double pole (240v double phase) for larger motors/compressors.
The disconnect for the condenser is usually a heavier gauge to carry the ampacity load this would be on its own breaker (greater than 20 amp usually). The receptacle would be wired on a separate GFCI protected circuit with a lighter gauge wire with a 15/20amp breaker.
Where is the AC capacitor in that circuit? I don't really get if there's a risk of shock from a stored charge. Why or why not?
Would you tap1/2''or1''inch Tap washer beyind metal box. OR GROMIT PLASTIC CLIPS.
The HVAC equipment also has fuse ratings on the label. Max and min.
Pro tip I learned from another you tube channel. Using a TapCon and the brick/concrete turns out to be a little more crumblely than anticipated and the hole isn't holding the fastener as well as you like. Use a piece of 12awg solid wire as a filler, install the TapCon. It'll be as tight as a crabs ass...water tight.
You didn't explain what part of the NEC allowed you to cover up the junction box in the wall and still consider that box to be accessible? Why not move the disconnect over away from the vent (and water) with an outdoor rated cover, LB, and short piece of PVC? Imagine water getting into the box in the wall causing the wire connection to fail and having to trouble shoot the fault.
I wonder if installing it right bellow the exhaust fan cap is a good idea?
Yeah...it's not, but neither is further opening the exterior wall so it felt like the lesser of 2 evils. The best solution would be to hire a mason to do repairs after the relocation, but that is up to the value assessment of the homeowner.
If it was a larger box I would have always used a insulated Polaris or burndy type connector at least with anything larger than a 10AWG better than a wire nut or even a gel filled Wago connector just to be sure I still regard that box as external not withstanding the sealant you used.
I would have also redirected that vent I suspect if hot air was coming out of it the corrosion of the old box could have been impacted by moisture-laden air from the vent and or hot air interacting with colder external air around the vent and disconnect.
How is it to code when you buried your wire nut connections inside the wall cavity? Any failure is a potential fire inside the wall? I’m an amateur “professional home owner” and I would never do that and I would site an electrician working on my house if they did that. You installed a threaded strain relief with lock down screws and didn’t tighten them. Are you assuming that because there was no pullable slack that the wire was secured to code? It seemed you had enough wire to pass the romex into the box, lock the screws and then extend the wires internal to the box. What am I missing?
So how would you do it...
8:10 you think that exhaust vent had something to do with how bad that other disconnect rusted... relocating the new disconnect might have been a better option. An electrical box cover connected to some conduit could have allowed you to move the new disconnect so it might not have been in line with that exhaust vent. Probably could have also used an existing knock out with the new disconnect.
Why didn't you use a chase nipple and lock nut and plastic bushing for the line side coming into your disconnect ?
That would have been a great choice!
I came here to see if I could figure out what that conduit strap is actually called. I think I heard mini but that sounds way too generic and unsearchable. Just discovered your channel and love the detailed explanation. Not planning on becoming an electrician, but pretty helpful information. Thank you!
Edit: Answering my own question, I think it's a MINE Conduit Hanger
MINI Conduit Hanger 😊
I think a big difference is exposure to sunlight, I really doubt moisture will penetrate the insulation unless UV first deteriorates it.
Bro, where's your eye protection, but wear's gloves. Electrician at work had three operations to repair eye damage when using a drill, thanks man.
Also good if verify an outlet is within 25' of the equipment (210.63).
26:00 Did you mark the white wire as a hot? 🙂
A little silicone grease makes carflex slip into those fittings much easier.
Almost perfect so I will nitpick. Seal tight need a clip within 12" of the disconnect.. I would have used a chase nipple on the back of the disconnect to run the new wire through. I usually take the two screws out and pull the cover off the disconnect so your not fighting it all the time.
What is the name of torque screwdriver?
Thanks in advance
The telco guys around here call that duct seal elephant poop 😅
A lot of moisture comes out of that dryer vent. Maybe move it over or lower. But good installation.
Shouldn't there be a another strap closer (within 18") to the disconnect?
Yes, within 12 inches of the disconnect and within 3 feet of the unit and every 3 feet in between for lengths exceeding 6 feet.
According to ntsc your definition of indoor/ outdoor raceways and locations is correct