So I install tile for a living…porcelain tile is super strong, but I can smack a porcelain tile 4-5 times and it will crack. Travertine shower walls however when I’m doing rip out are Much more difficult to break! I’d like to see you do the same test with travertine tiles!
im doing it for rifle calibers so i put ceramic tiles between some layers and it works realy fine, final plate is better to cover with some duct tape or any izo tape that holds it together after its being shot, so you make it multi shot plate and its better - but this works just fine, i have those plates too
Try a 2:1 epoxy and see if there is a difference. 2:1 is more flexible than 5:1 You can put the mixed epoxy in a paint pan and use a foam roller. It will extend the working time of the epoxy a little bit. The roller will help getting the air out better than a chip brush.
Cross hatch the fiberglass, so that you don’t have straight horizontal and vertical all matching. I wonder how that will better the effectiveness of the plate?
a sheet of 14ga steel in front of the fiberglass layers rotated 45 degrees as you stack them with maybe a few extra layers of kevlar on the front and back and maybe some 1/4 inch rubber flooring at the rear to help dissipate the bulge force could possibly get you close to small rifle rounds and wouldn't be terribly heavy either, but I'm sure there are factors that could influence its ability. I think it being able to float rather than being held rigid would diffuse a ton of the force. I wish i had this setup to test it all out.
Lol' I was going to ask same question about SS mesh 5 sheets cost 10-15 bucks. The reason I was thinking SS is when I worked fab shop the rule with iron worker when punching hole was 1" hole could only punch 1" thick or less or die could explode. The rule for SS was exactly half. SS had more tensile strength so to punch 1" hole the plate thickness couldn't be over 1/2" Now for punch any hole in AR plate was an absolute NO. I did by mistake once and the entire 6 TON IRON WORKER came 6-8" up on one side. That's was 20years ago so things are probably different now. Have a great day!
Ive wondered about doing something like this, I always figured a good press would be a crucial tool to ensure consistency and strength. It's important to get this information out there as society descends. Thank you for sharing! Do you see a rifle rated plate in your future?
Yeah if he would add just a little more to these so they stand up to 55 grain 5.56 XM193 ball ammo, and 7.62x39 FMJs... He would really be onto something. I'm also curious about the weight of one of these plates.
If you layer the glass at right angles to each other, would be stronger. Also you might try a layer of another weight glass and stager them. Make a vacuuming system to draw all air bubbles out.
@@Bruce23d Counter-Question, to make it more straightforward to what you say: What about using Strips of FiberGlass (V12) randomly sprinkled in the different layers of epoxy, or even more gruesome, why not make a big STEW? The idea is how to share experience (or science) in this very crafty mix.
@HallucinatedGames you actually do all of that to some degree. The idea is the more crossing of the fibers and layers the stronger it will be. The vacuum is for pulling all the air out of the fibers and resins. We use it in Aviation all the time for composite repair.
Thanks for another very educative video. You seem to have thought out which fibreglass type to use: 600g/m2 in this case. What are your thought or findings on 800g/m2 woven roving fibreglass?
Thanks. As for the 800g/m2 I haven’t used it. My guess is that it would probably perform similarly at the same thickness of the 600g/m2 but may hold slightly more resin making it slightly heavier.
Great video man really impressive, I started doing the welding blanket I'm going with 30 sheets with two 1/2 inch pieces of pexi glass, I might even go with porcelain tiles and then a deflection plate I'm going to try it with and without the porcelain. I'm also going to try your method in fiberglass which was really impressive the only reason why I'm not doing that just yet is because I've already cut my pieces of the welding blanket. I'm going to run c-clamps all the way around about 3 to 4 in apart to compress it, couple of weeks ago I had some old composite decking which is really heavy stuff. I want to see how bulletproof it was, I shot it with a 22 long the bullet didn't pass through but there was definitely back deformatin, but that is definitely the limit, I'd use it as a deflection plate but it's to heavy. Anyway I appreciate all your hard work and thank you sir. 🙏🤙
I used the same materials as you but I was able to compress it to 1.5 cm thickness but weighing at 2 lbs. I haven''t tested it yet but I might add some porcelain tile in front.
@@juancastrarias9437 Without tiles, it stopped 9mm and 0.45 like a champ but 5.56 went through. 2 tiles with a thin steel layer at the back stopped a 5.56 so I have a feeling if I replaced the backer with the fiberglass it would be lvl 3.
@3RB definitely should. 💯 In the form of 'on-demand' request-build-ship for his subscribers. I'm already in line to purchase, even be it just to support the channel. For us in Europe, a playful cover-fabric and label like 'airgun target (backstop)' would be needed to avoid unnecessary customs delay, though it is legal to buy and sell armor-plates here in the Netherlands (as much as I know of).
You should test Civil Defense 50 grain 9mm that travels at 2040 fps. If it can stop that, it's better than 3A as I've never seen a 3A vest stop those rounds. Also another round that 3A doesn't usually stop is Underwood 68 grain XTREME DEFENDERs.
I have the civil defense 50gr round and haven’t disassembled the plate yet. I’ll give it a try later this week and let you know how it does. Unfortunately I do not have any underwood ammo at this time. If i have time I’ll look around and see what I can find.
On this note. Theres also the Dagney Dagger traveling at similar velocity. Thats straight up armor piercing so I wouldnt expect it to be stopped with that cobalt core. But since learning about it, Ive been interested to see if a 3D printed projectile would be stopped by any 3A plate, soft or hard. Having the ability to manufacture that kind of force multiplier at home is a potential game changer
I was looking at Noah's marine and they sell biaxial and triaxial cloth. It would be interesting to see if there is a difference. I think this may be the third time watching this video. I have to say, I like your process for making this plate. Well done! I also subbed a couple of videos ago 👍
Btw, if folks don't have a press like in the above video, getting some of those cheap, vacuum clothes/pillows etc bags that lock after you use a household vacuum to pull the air out of it, will help in getting out more of the air and getting the layers closer together with less epoxy. It is not nearly as good as a true epoxy/composites vacuum bagging system (pulls A LOT more air out), but it is better than nothing.
I’m not sure how many yards you are trying to buy so I don’t know if that’s a good deal or not. Here’s another place that sells woven roving at a good price but I’ve never ordered from them. www.noahsmarine.com/woven_woven-roving_lst.html
What about a helmet? I'd love to see that plus body armor, face, shield and anything else you think would be cool. I know it would be heavy that's why I justvwant a shield and helmet
I know it would be heavier, but now I wonder what that plate would do with maybe a 14 gauge steel plate adhered on the end then the whole thing covered in a couple layers of duct tape.
I considered using 14 gauge steel also I'm going with 30 sheets of the fiberglass the welding blanket only cuz I already cut it up and I'm doubling up on two half inch sheets of plexiglass I saw a video where 25 layers stoped a 12 gauge slug point blank. I'm going to try one with the 30 sheets and the with and without the porcelain and also with and without the 14 gauge steel not sure what I'm going to use as a deflection plate.
I’ve thought the same thing but worry about delaminating the fiberglass. I’ll probably try it on the outside and make something like a medieval plate build.
@@3RBallistics maybe use the steel as a backing? I'd be interested to see both of those. I kind of feel like using the steel as backing would help to mitigate spalling.
Please do a level 4.5 plate by putting two quarter inch layers of ceramic as the outer layer, followed by a half inch of ultrahigh molecular weight polyethylene followed by the fiberglass system here. Such a beast could squeeze into the carriers if done well, and would stop a 308 AP Ball ... but not a tungsten core M993. Still, the beast would be sellable "for target practice purposes only" :)
Sure will. I have all those materials and both 308 API and M993 for testing the plate. Might take me a few weeks as I’m rapping up the level 3 plate testing right now.
@@3RBallistics Would you make a video about this? It would make the plate kind of bulky i think but still lightweight in comparison with its steel competitors.Thank you
@@3RBallistics you are a legend bro. For us Europeans it is very hard to acquire good bodyarmor for a decent price so thanks for all the time and work you put in👊🏽
These panels were meant only to handle pistol rounds but I have another video where I make plates that I test against 5.56 here: czcams.com/video/2PEGTQWESLQ/video.htmlsi=KGFXihzzeIwE0rgG
I’ll have to look into that. I’ve used type S fiberglass but it didn’t seem to add any impact resistance over the less expensive woven roving fiberglass.
Hey - what about that iron silhuets rickock 45 shots - even 45/70 any thing and leave just a mark - you knwon that things dont lok thick ? I are beginer about thes /that is a mistery - help
Costs a little more, but S2 grade fiberglass and basalt fiber work better than E grade fiberglass (the most common and least expensive). Also making some homemade, sort of pseudo graphene (i.e. not the very high quality, very pure stuff), which is pretty easy to make * and adding some in with the epoxy can help. To cut down on the weight and how many layers, putting woven UHMWPE cloth in front of it helps. You can also do things like add a layer of silicon carbide infused epoxy to the top layer of the glass. Perhaps even a better material to add to the epoxy (besides the pseudo graphene), is carbonized cellulose nanocrystals. It is not hard to make at home with some research. Basically you take a cellulose source with a high amount of crystalline cellulose in it, and either use enzymes or 50% by weight sulfuric acid (not as dangerous or toxic as some people make it out to be) to 50% water, at around 130 degrees F for a half hour to burn out the amorphous cellulose material from the crystalline (then rinse it really good with clean water). Then put that in a container with a lid, put some paper or stainless steel foil over it and then some activated charcoal on top of that (these are to create a low oxygen environment when it heats, so that it doesn't burn up and convert to carbon dioxide and monoxide, water vapor, etc). Put a small vent hole in the lid. Heat up the container to 800 to 1000 degrees F or so for a while, and it will carbonize. * * The two easiest ways to do the above, is to either use a microwave kiln, or to take a soup can that has its plastic liner either burned or dissolved off, wrap it with nichrome wire and use one of those large car battery chargers and connect the leads to two different ends of the wire. Wrap it up in ceramic fiber blanket material to insulate it first though. If you're using a microwave kiln, you have to be careful using the sacrificial activated carbon and/or stainless steel foil--both absorb and get super heated by microwaves.
I’ve tested S2 and while it may be stronger it’s not better. Just like steel sometime the extra strength comes at a cost of brittleness. Also, this build was strictly a single material experiment but I’ll definitely look into multi material plates in the future. Thanks for the comment and keep them coming.
If you look at some of my more recent videos you’ll notice it has much less splash or spall than metal plates and much less backface deformation that Kevlar or UHMWPE
I have experimented with additives in the resin. Unfortunately while they do add a bit of performance, they do not perform to level 4. Maybe I’ll make a video of this showing the performance of all the additives.
I also make level 3, 3+ and all the way to level IV stopping M2-AP in other videos. Also, understanding what actually stops certain threats allows people to keep from over paying and understanding what projectile you actually want to stop.
@@3RBallisticsVery informative, good watch. Gives another option and definitely more budget friendly if you have. Larger family. I'll take three. LoL...
I just try to compare. I just bought 2kg of 600gr/m² woven roving fiberglass cloth that i cutted become 36 layers of 10"x12”. And when i scale 25 layers of it, its weight around 1,2kg (±2,7 pound) not include with the resin that i gonna use later. I think i use the same fiberglass cloth that you use in this video. But i don't know why mine is hevier than what you made
@@jpnoutdoor7056 it could be how it’s cut. In the video I cut the plate into a shooters cut. Maybe the size of the plate is different? I have another that’s not shot up that I can check on Monday. I’ve made so many different plates that the one I have right here (17 ounces) might not have 25 layers 🤷🏻♂️
I was about 25 feet away (8 meters). You will get greater difference’s in factory load bullet velocity than moving 3 meters closer. However, you are correct and I have since tested these as close as 3 meters with no difference. The video is here if you’d like to check it out
🤦🏻♂️ I was 15 yards away which equals 13 meters. A 3 meter difference isn’t enough to even account for the difference in standard deviation from factory ammo. Hence, it wouldn’t change the results.
If you layer the glass at right angles to each other, would be stronger. Also you might try a layer of another weight glass and stager them. Make a vacuuming system to draw all air bubbles out.
The fibreglass he is using is an offset 90 degree weave, so I'm not sure you're right. It would probably be better to roll the resin out of every layer as the strength is in the material not the resin. Vacuum bag is a brilliant idea though.
@MrClowny666 I work in Aviation. The strength comes from the layers. The crossing of the angle of the fibers does make a difference in strength. The vacuuming of the just pulls all the air bubbles. He could still squeeze it as is, but he will never get all the air out of it that way.
I'd like to see you step that up to 40 layers and test level IV, rifle rated.
Best video about home made body armour I've seen so far. And i have watched a lot. Thankyou for being so thorough.
So I install tile for a living…porcelain tile is super strong, but I can smack a porcelain tile 4-5 times and it will crack. Travertine shower walls however when I’m doing rip out are Much more difficult to break! I’d like to see you do the same test with travertine tiles!
I love this idea. I’ll find a source and give travertine tile a shot.
im doing it for rifle calibers so i put ceramic tiles between some layers and it works realy fine, final plate is better to cover with some duct tape or any izo tape that holds it together after its being shot, so you make it multi shot plate and its better - but this works just fine, i have those plates too
Thank you! Really appreciate you showing your build process.
Great information you offer here sir. Thank you.
truly appreciate your work and luv the information..
Try a 2:1 epoxy and see if there is a difference. 2:1 is more flexible than 5:1
You can put the mixed epoxy in a paint pan and use a foam roller. It will extend the working time of the epoxy a little bit. The roller will help getting the air out better than a chip brush.
Thanks for the tip. I have both epoxy types and like the roller idea.
Congratulations from Brazil... great video..
Pretty awesome stuff dude !
Cross hatch the fiberglass, so that you don’t have straight horizontal and vertical all matching. I wonder how that will better the effectiveness of the plate?
Very good job !
a sheet of 14ga steel in front of the fiberglass layers rotated 45 degrees as you stack them with maybe a few extra layers of kevlar on the front and back and maybe some 1/4 inch rubber flooring at the rear to help dissipate the bulge force could possibly get you close to small rifle rounds and wouldn't be terribly heavy either, but I'm sure there are factors that could influence its ability. I think it being able to float rather than being held rigid would diffuse a ton of the force. I wish i had this setup to test it all out.
Lol' I was going to ask same question about SS mesh 5 sheets cost 10-15 bucks. The reason I was thinking SS is when I worked fab shop the rule with iron worker when punching hole was 1" hole could only punch 1" thick or less or die could explode. The rule for SS was exactly half.
SS had more tensile strength so to punch 1" hole the plate thickness couldn't be over 1/2"
Now for punch any hole in AR plate was an absolute NO. I did by mistake once and the entire 6 TON IRON WORKER came 6-8" up on one side. That's was 20years ago so things are probably different now. Have a great day!
Ive wondered about doing something like this, I always figured a good press would be a crucial tool to ensure consistency and strength. It's important to get this information out there as society descends. Thank you for sharing! Do you see a rifle rated plate in your future?
Yeah if he would add just a little more to these so they stand up to 55 grain 5.56 XM193 ball ammo, and 7.62x39 FMJs... He would really be onto something. I'm also curious about the weight of one of these plates.
@@Steven-gv1ke he mentioned the weight I think right around when he pulled it from the mold. About 3lbs IIRC
I do have a setup for rifle rated plates utilizing this method. I will be doing more video’s showing these capabilities.
@@3RBallistics Cant wait!
@@3RBallistics Looking forward to that one.
Looks like good armor 💯%
If you layer the glass at right angles to each other, would be stronger. Also you might try a layer of another weight glass and stager them. Make a vacuuming system to draw all air bubbles out.
The vacuuming system is a great idea to avoid soft spots in the lattice. Great suggestion!
What are the right angles?
@@thewakandaconnection3743 threads 90 degrees. Crisscross checker board. Manu name.
@@Bruce23d Counter-Question, to make it more straightforward to what you say: What about using Strips of FiberGlass (V12) randomly sprinkled in the different layers of epoxy, or even more gruesome, why not make a big STEW? The idea is how to share experience (or science) in this very crafty mix.
@HallucinatedGames you actually do all of that to some degree. The idea is the more crossing of the fibers and layers the stronger it will be. The vacuum is for pulling all the air out of the fibers and resins. We use it in Aviation all the time for composite repair.
Do this exact setup with thin porcelain tiles embedded 5 or 6 layers in.
Thank you for this awesome video! How many inches thick is this plate? Thank you
It was 1/2 inch thick
Thanks for another very educative video. You seem to have thought out which fibreglass type to use: 600g/m2 in this case. What are your thought or findings on 800g/m2 woven roving fibreglass?
Thanks. As for the 800g/m2 I haven’t used it. My guess is that it would probably perform similarly at the same thickness of the 600g/m2 but may hold slightly more resin making it slightly heavier.
Great video man really impressive, I started doing the welding blanket I'm going with 30 sheets with two 1/2 inch pieces of pexi glass, I might even go with porcelain tiles and then a deflection plate I'm going to try it with and without the porcelain. I'm also going to try your method in fiberglass which was really impressive the only reason why I'm not doing that just yet is because I've already cut my pieces of the welding blanket. I'm going to run c-clamps all the way around about 3 to 4 in apart to compress it, couple of weeks ago I had some old composite decking which is really heavy stuff. I want to see how bulletproof it was, I shot it with a 22 long the bullet didn't pass through but there was definitely back deformatin, but that is definitely the limit, I'd use it as a deflection plate but it's to heavy. Anyway I appreciate all your hard work and thank you sir. 🙏🤙
I used the same materials as you but I was able to compress it to 1.5 cm thickness but weighing at 2 lbs. I haven''t tested it yet but I might add some porcelain tile in front.
How did it do?
@@juancastrarias9437 Without tiles, it stopped 9mm and 0.45 like a champ but 5.56 went through. 2 tiles with a thin steel layer at the back stopped a 5.56 so I have a feeling if I replaced the backer with the fiberglass it would be lvl 3.
Dude that's awesome you should sell them I've got a bunch of plates but I would buy one just because it's homemade it's awesome
@3RB definitely should. 💯 In the form of 'on-demand' request-build-ship for his subscribers. I'm already in line to purchase, even be it just to support the channel. For us in Europe, a playful cover-fabric and label like 'airgun target (backstop)' would be needed to avoid unnecessary customs delay, though it is legal to buy and sell armor-plates here in the Netherlands (as much as I know of).
Nice!
Thanks
I want to know where to get the fiberglass
You should test Civil Defense 50 grain 9mm that travels at 2040 fps. If it can stop that, it's better than 3A as I've never seen a 3A vest stop those rounds. Also another round that 3A doesn't usually stop is Underwood 68 grain XTREME DEFENDERs.
I have the civil defense 50gr round and haven’t disassembled the plate yet. I’ll give it a try later this week and let you know how it does. Unfortunately I do not have any underwood ammo at this time. If i have time I’ll look around and see what I can find.
On this note. Theres also the Dagney Dagger traveling at similar velocity. Thats straight up armor piercing so I wouldnt expect it to be stopped with that cobalt core. But since learning about it, Ive been interested to see if a 3D printed projectile would be stopped by any 3A plate, soft or hard. Having the ability to manufacture that kind of force multiplier at home is a potential game changer
I would add carbon fiber and rhino lining to the exterior for flack protection
you want some hdpe under that rhino liner, man. catches more.
@@kingmasterlord some thin sheets then the Rhino lining. Not a bad idea. Thank you
@@BenRester hey no problem theres a guy on yt stopping rifle rounds with milk jug hdpe
@@kingmasterlord dang that’s bad ass
good show.
Have you tried offseting the layers by 45 degrees? Supposedly it helps the strength of the overall plate.
I have not tried this yet but it has been mentioned before. Probably be a good test to do.
I was looking at Noah's marine and they sell biaxial and triaxial cloth. It would be interesting to see if there is a difference. I think this may be the third time watching this video. I have to say, I like your process for making this plate. Well done!
I also subbed a couple of videos ago 👍
Btw, if folks don't have a press like in the above video, getting some of those cheap, vacuum clothes/pillows etc bags that lock after you use a household vacuum to pull the air out of it, will help in getting out more of the air and getting the layers closer together with less epoxy. It is not nearly as good as a true epoxy/composites vacuum bagging system (pulls A LOT more air out), but it is better than nothing.
i just made a small wood structure and put a car jack in it
The fiberglass alone from composite envisions costs me $50 usd alone. Is there any other place to buy fiberglass that you recommend?
I’m not sure how many yards you are trying to buy so I don’t know if that’s a good deal or not. Here’s another place that sells woven roving at a good price but I’ve never ordered from them.
www.noahsmarine.com/woven_woven-roving_lst.html
What about a helmet? I'd love to see that plus body armor, face, shield and anything else you think would be cool. I know it would be heavy that's why I justvwant a shield and helmet
I’m truly thinking about it.
@killerwolf7676 This is where sponsorship should come in in support of 3R's valuable work and resulting insights. 😉
I wonder how it would work if you took the same plate and sprayed it with box liner,
Might be worth a try. I have used some bed liner around blocks and it holds well.
I know it would be heavier, but now I wonder what that plate would do with maybe a 14 gauge steel plate adhered on the end then the whole thing covered in a couple layers of duct tape.
I’ll look into it and see if there’s potential to make something work.
I considered using 14 gauge steel also I'm going with 30 sheets of the fiberglass the welding blanket only cuz I already cut it up and I'm doubling up on two half inch sheets of plexiglass I saw a video where 25 layers stoped a 12 gauge slug point blank. I'm going to try one with the 30 sheets and the with and without the porcelain and also with and without the 14 gauge steel not sure what I'm going to use as a deflection plate.
How can I order from you?
I wonder what would happen if you placed thin gauge mild plate steel in the middle of that fiberglass plate.
I’ve thought the same thing but worry about delaminating the fiberglass. I’ll probably try it on the outside and make something like a medieval plate build.
@@3RBallistics maybe use the steel as a backing? I'd be interested to see both of those. I kind of feel like using the steel as backing would help to mitigate spalling.
i like to see panels made 16in by 4 ft . would be nice to
insert into walls
If you make this in NY State you will have call it a "target back stop"
What happens if you double the number of layers??
I don’t know. Sounds like something that should be tested.
Please do a level 4.5 plate by putting two quarter inch layers of ceramic as the outer layer, followed by a half inch of ultrahigh molecular weight polyethylene followed by the fiberglass system here. Such a beast could squeeze into the carriers if done well, and would stop a 308 AP Ball ... but not a tungsten core M993. Still, the beast would be sellable "for target practice purposes only" :)
Sure will. I have all those materials and both 308 API and M993 for testing the plate. Might take me a few weeks as I’m rapping up the level 3 plate testing right now.
Then you're the fucking man!!! Thanks so much!! :) @@3RBallistics
Would be a n amazing product. Do you sell them?
I do not but I believe they are available from BAM on eBay
Have you tried doubling up the thickness to see if a rifle round could be stopped?
Yes but it didn’t work. It would need about 2.5 times of the material (about 60 layers) to stop 7.62x39 and 5.56
@@3RBallistics Would you make a video about this? It would make the plate kind of bulky i think but still lightweight in comparison with its steel competitors.Thank you
@@thewakandaconnection3743 Might take a month or so before I can get it done but I’ll give it a try.
@@3RBallistics you are a legend bro. For us Europeans it is very hard to acquire good bodyarmor for a decent price so thanks for all the time and work you put in👊🏽
You need to test your plates with the 5.56
These panels were meant only to handle pistol rounds but I have another video where I make plates that I test against 5.56 here:
czcams.com/video/2PEGTQWESLQ/video.htmlsi=KGFXihzzeIwE0rgG
Anything to keep the strong smell from bothering others? Seems the epoxy (Bond) stinks.
I believe you are thinking of polyester resin (I.e. Bondo brand from Home Depot). Most 2 part epoxy that are 1:1 ratio have very little smell.
What oz is the fabric? You get it from Amazon?
18oz woven roving fiberglass. I usually get it from composite envisions.
could you tell me how big this is? im assumming half an inch but could u give me specific measurement?
The plate is 10x12 inches and 1/2 inch thick.
@@3RBallistics thank you
Since the weight is so light, ever thought about 40-50 layers to see if it will take a rifle round or two?
It’s actually in the works. I’m thinking layers of 25 up to 75 layers
@@3RBallistics Awesome, can't wait to see what modifying 'only' that variable (nr. of fibreglass layers) will add in effectiveness.
some companies do fiberglass armor panels and I came to conclusion that FRP will weight the same weight as steel armor.
What about biaxial fiberglass would that be better?
I’ll have to look into that. I’ve used type S fiberglass but it didn’t seem to add any impact resistance over the less expensive woven roving fiberglass.
Hey - what about that iron silhuets rickock 45 shots - even 45/70 any thing and leave just a mark - you knwon that things dont lok thick ?
I are beginer about thes /that is a mistery - help
was the sub 3LB weight before cutting the corners or after?
That was after. If i recall correctly, it was 3 pounds 4 ounces before.
@@3RBallistics thanks!
Plenty of room for ceramic tile and horse mat to make it rifle resistant and fight spalling
Can i just buy some from you?
Costs a little more, but S2 grade fiberglass and basalt fiber work better than E grade fiberglass (the most common and least expensive). Also making some homemade, sort of pseudo graphene (i.e. not the very high quality, very pure stuff), which is pretty easy to make * and adding some in with the epoxy can help. To cut down on the weight and how many layers, putting woven UHMWPE cloth in front of it helps.
You can also do things like add a layer of silicon carbide infused epoxy to the top layer of the glass.
Perhaps even a better material to add to the epoxy (besides the pseudo graphene), is carbonized cellulose nanocrystals. It is not hard to make at home with some research. Basically you take a cellulose source with a high amount of crystalline cellulose in it, and either use enzymes or 50% by weight sulfuric acid (not as dangerous or toxic as some people make it out to be) to 50% water, at around 130 degrees F for a half hour to burn out the amorphous cellulose material from the crystalline (then rinse it really good with clean water). Then put that in a container with a lid, put some paper or stainless steel foil over it and then some activated charcoal on top of that (these are to create a low oxygen environment when it heats, so that it doesn't burn up and convert to carbon dioxide and monoxide, water vapor, etc). Put a small vent hole in the lid. Heat up the container to 800 to 1000 degrees F or so for a while, and it will carbonize. *
* The two easiest ways to do the above, is to either use a microwave kiln, or to take a soup can that has its plastic liner either burned or dissolved off, wrap it with nichrome wire and use one of those large car battery chargers and connect the leads to two different ends of the wire. Wrap it up in ceramic fiber blanket material to insulate it first though. If you're using a microwave kiln, you have to be careful using the sacrificial activated carbon and/or stainless steel foil--both absorb and get super heated by microwaves.
I’ve tested S2 and while it may be stronger it’s not better. Just like steel sometime the extra strength comes at a cost of brittleness. Also, this build was strictly a single material experiment but I’ll definitely look into multi material plates in the future.
Thanks for the comment and keep them coming.
@@3RBallistics Yeah, S2 and Basalt are a bit more brittle than E glass.
What about bullet splash and spall debris?
If you look at some of my more recent videos you’ll notice it has much less splash or spall than metal plates and much less backface deformation that Kevlar or UHMWPE
Nice...
Whats is the thickness of the plate?
It’s 1/2” thick
@@3RBallistics thanks.
Add ash (carbon) to your resin and youll have level 4.
I have experimented with additives in the resin. Unfortunately while they do add a bit of performance, they do not perform to level 4. Maybe I’ll make a video of this showing the performance of all the additives.
Where I can see results of carbon strengthening of resin?
I need a sintering oven and an extruder!
👍🏻
stopping the 44 but ur sternum complex is a crude paste
Is anyone actually using these homemades in their carriers? If so, why only IIIA. In these times, wouldn't an individual want to stop 7.62s or 5.56s?
I also make level 3, 3+ and all the way to level IV stopping M2-AP in other videos. Also, understanding what actually stops certain threats allows people to keep from over paying and understanding what projectile you actually want to stop.
@@3RBallisticsVery informative, good watch. Gives another option and definitely more budget friendly if you have. Larger family. I'll take three. LoL...
How much the weight of the plate?
About 1 pound. Or exactly 17.2 ounces
I just watch your video again. Entirely. And its say in 14:24 that its weight about 2 pound 14 oz. So which one is correct?
I just try to compare. I just bought 2kg of 600gr/m² woven roving fiberglass cloth that i cutted become 36 layers of 10"x12”.
And when i scale 25 layers of it, its weight around 1,2kg (±2,7 pound) not include with the resin that i gonna use later. I think i use the same fiberglass cloth that you use in this video. But i don't know why mine is hevier than what you made
@@jpnoutdoor7056 it could be how it’s cut. In the video I cut the plate into a shooters cut. Maybe the size of the plate is different? I have another that’s not shot up that I can check on Monday. I’ve made so many different plates that the one I have right here (17 ounces) might not have 25 layers 🤷🏻♂️
needs to be a whole suit, its kind of light, right? iron man
Need to sell them
With full respect, but the Distance in so long. For NIJ IIIA (pistol bullets) it must be 5 meters, and for NIJ III 15...
I was about 25 feet away (8 meters). You will get greater difference’s in factory load bullet velocity than moving 3 meters closer. However, you are correct and I have since tested these as close as 3 meters with no difference. The video is here if you’d like to check it out
czcams.com/video/xhQ4FfVRVko/video.htmlsi=j1ou0hTLRT4iGfVb
So are you marketing these sweet baby’s?
U need an electric bike to go to and fro, bro 😊
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destination is very far for shooting ... it must be 10 metters ... this will be more realistic ... good luck ...
🤦🏻♂️ I was 15 yards away which equals 13 meters. A 3 meter difference isn’t enough to even account for the difference in standard deviation from factory ammo. Hence, it wouldn’t change the results.
@@3RBallisticssorry, when I saw this video on a smartphone the distance looks further ...
All your small arms should been tested from 10 yards.
I was shooting from 15 yards. Not much difference in ballistics in those 5 yards. I just trying to be on the safer side when doing these tests.
first
No ..robber... shoots from that farrrrrrrrr
If you layer the glass at right angles to each other, would be stronger. Also you might try a layer of another weight glass and stager them. Make a vacuuming system to draw all air bubbles out.
The fibreglass he is using is an offset 90 degree weave, so I'm not sure you're right. It would probably be better to roll the resin out of every layer as the strength is in the material not the resin. Vacuum bag is a brilliant idea though.
@MrClowny666 I work in Aviation. The strength comes from the layers. The crossing of the angle of the fibers does make a difference in strength. The vacuuming of the just pulls all the air bubbles. He could still squeeze it as is, but he will never get all the air out of it that way.