This will completely destroy your RC Car - Traxxas Sledge totaled
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- čas přidán 13. 01. 2023
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“The chassis is bent! How!?” You had me dying laughing like dude it went up 80ft in the air and landed perfectly in the middle of a metal railing haha
When dealing with the shock, try assembling it to the arm before the shock tower. I'm an Arrma owner but its always been easier for me to assemble my shocks that way 👍
I second this. Had this issue in my first hobby grade truck (MT-10 Naturally) and it worked a treat. Has become standard practice now. Also worst comes to worse, taking off a little material from the arm with an exacto is a shortcut. I've had to do that with RPM arms before.
This, bottom first, top 2nd.
Wao amazing video 😍😍😍😍🤩🤩🤩✨✨✨✨😊😊😊😊😊💃🏿💃🏿💃🏿💃🏿💃🏿🤗🤗🤗
@@seanwilson9117 I trim all my arms so they just slid in, makes life alot easier.
@@seanwilson9117 kekjfKFfkKffKñ
Kev, I'm surprised you haven't bought a plot of land and a skid steer and made your own RC playground(s) - seems like something you're uniquely qualified to do, and a hell of a lot of fun, to boot.
That’s a dream of mine. I have always wanted to have a piece of land that i can develop into a dirt track area and a massive bash area. I couldn’t afford any type of R/C vehicle as a kid..didn’t get my first buggy until I was 16. A use TAMIYA hornet. I want to share the hobby with every person interested, ESPECIALLY kids that are not able to get into the hobby without some financial help and someone to walk them through the basics until they are feeling confident to start bashing or racing on there own.
he should def buy land and make his own track
We need more repair and upgrade videos. I would love a series with best upgrades for each model!
This! So much this. @kevin please make vids like this, specifically for the e revo 2.0 hehehe
😅
Kraton EXB owner here, put in the 1650kv Hobbywing Max 6 combo in there, the motor is big enough it mounts and also sits on the chassis. Never bend a motor mount or had any issue with this setup.
Another great way to organize screws when wrenching... Temporarily, put them back where they came from, but just hand tighten them. Makes keeping everything organized easy, and reassembly even easier! Great Video.
Given that it was probably really cold there too, it's a testament to Traxxas that the plastic didn't snap or shatter!
Hey Kevin I just bought the sledge and have been watching all your utube videos and I just had my first bash with my stock Traxxas sledge and did my first back flip and now I'm hooked thank you for all your knowledge. Mike
3:30 Try to stick an allen wrench through the ball joint to align it. The ends of the balljoints should just be wide enough to slightliy move into the gap and stay in position, so you can pull out the allen wrench out. That´s how I do it on my T-Maxx all the time.
Kevin you are my favorite CZcamsr!! Love the videos and how you don’t hold back on what you actually think of a product no matter what. Thanks for being unbiased.
Love the way you test RC's out and your opinion of what you like or dislike. Keep up the great vids.
That's what I call an honest review of two AWESOME rigs! And Kev can kill it all 😆 New location looks very nice 👍
Kev, your videos are so awesome! I just saved enough to by my first X-maxx. You were so right about it, I am so glad I got it. Thank you for being such an awesome inspirational figure!
@@nickmartin812 Don't watch his videos then. If you don't like them why are you here?
@@nickmartin812 literally nobody asked
That’s awesome how do you like it I’ve been wanting to buy one but I’m 15 and have no job and am saving for a real car so one day one day I will buy one but not today
lol just got my first 1 2
Kev, for the wind problem. Try buying a "Mic Deadcat" its a really fluffy thing you can put around a microphone which reduces the wind noise a lot.
For the shocks. Ive found its best to attach it to the arm first. Then to the shock tower. And if the mount point in the arm is too tight. Use a file or thin sand paper etc to widen it slightly
Hi Kevin from the usa here . Your the best Rc youTuber. i’ve binged watched all your videos,subscriber for life here.
You all have a good day.
Finally! I set myself a challenge lo watch ALL of your videos on this channel (and press a like button on each of them). It took me 5 MONTHS to watch absolutely all of your videos, and you know, I dont regret it in any way! You have been my favourite CZcamsr since 2020, and I'm 100% sure you will stay first in my favourite bloggers list for a long time! Even if everybody in the world will hate on you, i'll never change my mind. Just keep doing such beautiful, honest videos and never give up! Thank you, Kev!
I really like how you show every piece and part how you take it apart.
I just got a kraton v5 and the shock rod ends slide in place without any issue. Breathtaking test as always!!
I just went through this last night on the xrt servo link . I used a hooked pick and put it through the outside hole than used the tip of the pick to adjust the pivot piece to line up . Worked perfect for me .
A few of the shocks I’ve bought lately have come with tiny o-rings holding the bushings in straight hope it helps! Love the videos kev ❤
Hey Kev I always put the rod end in the A Arm first then pull the whole assembly up to the shock tower that way I can compress the shock a little bit instead of pulling on it to try and get the rod end to line up that's just my trick.
Hey kev, I found that putting the shock shaft back in was easiest when I slid the ball end in the groove for the shaft closest to the diff housing first, then it would slide down the grove till you hit the hole you want to put the screw in.. the end of the groove closest to the diff housing is a little wider but not my much.. hope this helps!
That last crash was almost as good as Raz's Lossi crash into the Kirb stone.
That sledge is impressive though. I think I need one.
3:22 me too kev! Especially on the Trx4 because the place where the shock mounts in recessed into the fender.
One thing I've learned about RC transmission is to have harder gears in the diffs and softer driveshafts as they're soo much easier to replace. I'd rather go through shafts than gears or loads of cups cause only 2 pins wear out on both ends.
Been waiting ages for this review thanks Kev….wish you would produce your own RC ❤
Me as well, i think cus he lives in the UK he gets things slightly late, parts and sim of the newer Traxxas vehicles, great video 😉👍🏽💯
Don't think it'll be long somehow
@@vitodambra72 I’m in the uk too yes your right and our prices are considerably more than in the u.s
@@Inspireforchange ya man feel for ya guys that’s not right you have to wait on things 3-4 weeks after it comes out on the US, & prices are about $50-$60 more then our prices , one thing u guys do get faster are some of the China and FTX RC’s first , that Iam jealous about 😝
Recently found your channel and I love it. Ordering my Sledge Monday. Super excited and hoping it arrives for next weekend!!!
Have got one how is it
I was thinking You've probably gotta take the whole car apart to get the bulk head off 😂😂😂
????? I really hope you’re joking
@@hauntman yzjhugkjhjg
@@hauntman yes it was a joke
@@jeffbezos2117 ok good 😂😂
When getting the shaft end back into the arm, put an allan key through the swively part so you can line it up. Once you get it started, pull the allen key out and push it the rest of the way.
I put my hex wrench through the hole of the pivotball and that helps me line it up straight, or easy enough to wiggle into place - once its pressed in a bit, dont take out the wrench, get a smaller (1.5mm) and try to grab the pivot ball through the hole you would thread the screw. This works pretty awesome for me... Good Luck Kev and AAA+ Entertainment...
Wow that was a hard hit!!! Crazy how much stuff broke!! But I mean, who does that lol!!! Love that all your videos are basically a what not to do with your rc car!! Take care Kev!!!
Couldn't agree more about not being able to just buy the shock shaft rod end. On getting the pivot ball in I found that it's much easier pushing it in when the side of the ball facing you is pointing down. What you did at 3:45 is the exact opposite direction you want to angle the ball. Once you do that you should be able to just push it right in with a bit of force. I think because when you insert the rod end you're doing it at an angle. Worst comes to worst you can always straighten a paper clip out, put it through the ball and use that to keep the ball from pivoting so it slides right in.
This has got to be the best "Kraton vs Sledge" comparison video. About time someone did this...and, of course, not only did it have to be Kevin, but he just had to 'destroy' the M2C chassis in the process. Truth-be-told, even though the chassis was bent, considering the amount of force it took, and where, specifically, that force was applied, I challenge any other chassis to hold up better (in other words, no other will). Looking forward to doing my M2C swap...just waiting for one final "part" (technically, not a part, but a customized skin...hope to have video in the near future).
Hey dude! You can use a feeler guage or two to slip the shock ends back into the arm. One one either side, will keep the eyelet inline and stop it from snagging on the arm protrusions. Cheers!
Ya'll aint kidding when you do extreme testing. Pretty impressive the abuse these take. Well done.
I use a thin metal like widest flathead screwdriver but thinnest or a banding strip used to secure things to pallets. Start one side of shock on the other side thin metal and slide down to position. Spreads it as you slide.
I'm going to start using bins to separate my screws when I build an RC back up. It does make things easier. TY
Wow that’s one strong car amazing the treatment you gave it before it broke
watching you work on traxxas is always a good largh kev
Great job kev it’s always fun watching u
Honestly I don’t think you could go wrong with either. Both have their problems so I would go with whatever body style you like. IMO the kraton is better for ME because I can’t get parts down here for the sledge. I’ve broken the spur,front cvd(terrible landing),tires and that’s about it. The 6s 5200mah hoovo fit the sledge
I’ve been watching you since I was in grade 4 Kev you never cease to impress
Always take the shock off the top and bottom and do the a arm bolt first. I had the same issue everytime also. If I do anything with any shock I take off the top and bottom.
3:30 - not tried it myself but i imagine it would work a treat: try slotting a pair of flat, square-ended tweezers over the ends of the little metal ball thing, that should let you both push it in and keep it straight. surprisingly useful things tweezers are.
Great video as always fella. Like the assorted boxes for the screws n bits but I bet sometimes you knock them over and loose the plot.
I struggle with those as well in the A-arms. what i usually do is get it to where i can see it in the hole of the A-arm, stick a skinny screwdriver in the hole and straighten out if it goes in crooked. the hole the screw goes in. use a smaller screw diver in that hole and straighten it out while its in there crooked. hope this helps.
You broke it with a smile on your face I bet so I think you’re doing it right
kevin great vids i use feeler gauge it works great
When installing shocks, put a small screwdriver through the ball swivel thing on the shock, and use it to get the edges of the ball aligned in the gap. Then gently remove the screwdriver to allow the ball to go into the gap.
Suburb stuff, your enthusiasm is boundless.
It's been a while since I owned an RC car. I think it was an I.C. Schumacher 1/10.
I think 🤔 a new purchase is on the cards...
Thaty was a lot of fun. I like the comparison at the end too Kev, very fair and even handed.
Put a flathead screwdriver in the shock mount slot and twist to wedge open and relieve the rod ends.
Works for me every time!
For the shocks, I use a large flathead screwdriver to pry the plastic arm apart a little bit. All it needs is a mm or so
its a tied for both I am sold on both of them THEY CAN TAKE A LOT OF ABUSE THOUGH THAT'S EPIC
Use a muffin pan to organize your bolts! I do as a mechanic and works great!
I love how you're working with finesse and then when something is stuck you go all Bandon Frasier in Encino man on the part. Unga Bunga! 😂😂You're the greatest Kev, always making us laugh! That was one hard hit on the suicide jump. I have never seen a hit that perfectly hard. 😂 It would destroy anything, lol. That was EPIC!
Kev, I have a set of 'reverse pliers' (the jaws spread when you squeeze the handles), I throw them in and put some spread on the gap like you said, but the pliers make it a lot more controllable than a pry.
ill see if i can get some thanks!
Kev, I don't know if it would work but putting some cotton through the arm then through the shock end and out the other side of the arm and pull down holding both ends of the cotton it'll hopefully keep that pivot end level providing you pull the cotton ends evenly.
BUT lol the cotton might get in the way when pulling down in-between the arm and pivot. 🤷🏼♂️ Who knows lol, just a suggestion 😜👍🏻
Hi kev, great video:) BOOM!!! You make fixing your RC cars look so easy. Keep up the good work:)
Man that rail landing was brutal...
About those shocks, would they be easier to mount to arm first and then top?
Kev have you thought about getting a wind screen for the wind? Won’t eliminate all of the fuss but would help!
FIX add on use needle nose pliers to put pressure on the ball to hold it perpendicular to the end. They also make pliers that have like this smooth claw at the end matco tools makes them for car stereo installers putting wire taps on wires.
For the shock push the metal back end down first, then pull back the front will pop in you get the hang of it. It works every time.
on the shocks I usually put the screw in the arm a hair first then get the hole as close as possible to the screw then shove it in, works everytime for me
Great vid Kev and Max Destruction! Kev, Stemp and Max in a dinghy, ultimate testing RC boats would be hilarious! An idea for the summer maybe!...
Once max post's his vidja, I'll definitely watch it from his angle!
Great job getting max to start his channel!
I grab the shock absorber thingy with needle nose pliers from the very very edge of that round metal thing to put it in straight, it really only needs to go partially in and then you just push it in.
That hit was one of the few times I've seen a Sledge de-glove it's body. I love mine! They need to update the XMaxx with this body style also.
Hey Kevin. Just want you to know that my 3 year old son loves watching your videos especially at the skate park he loves the ramps. He is obsessed with RC cars & has a little one himself 😅
My suggestion on lower shock ends is my solution, with a Dremal tool,lightly sand inside of arm,I drill out screw hole slightly bigger,and then use a hinge pin style bolt with lock nut ,easy peasy no backed out screws
What about using floss ? The string you pit between your teeth. It’s small enough to wrap around that little metal floppy piece. You could wrap two strings on both sides and pull down so it’s equally balanced to slide in
This channel is a gold mine
It is for Kev.
Hy Kev, do some more vids with Max. You´re the perfect team 4 durability test. Can´t go wrong!
I enjoy Max also but Stempy is pure gold for laughs. We need all 3! Where has Stemp been??
i agree, all kevs vids are amazing but i do like the ones with max and the bloke he went on the rc boat with the best. This i had to watch a few times
Use your hex bit through the eye to keep it from moving around and helps align into position. Still a bit of a struggling but definitely helps…(pro tip )
How I do shocks in slots, I use an old hex key (Allen wrench) a size close to the hole in the bushing, and use that to twist the bushing to get it in the slot then remove, should fall in from there. Also works great on captured upper links
Your videos is just best.😎Keep it up.
I love what you do keep up the good work 😊
Kevin for the end motor batting in the arrma like for the end of the motor just get some shoe group or silicone good stuff and put it underneath the end of the motor squirted in there a certain good amount and it's cannot go down the motor it absolutely will never 100%
A couple thin blades from a feeler gauge would help guide the knuckle of the shock end into place on the control arm. I think it would help. Or maybe just one bent over to make it a single hand guide.
I find using an angled, pick and putting it through the island hole to guide it’s in really helps out with those rod ends
I think the yell as a reaction to the Sledge being totaled was actually just the Sledge yelling in so much pain. Fun with watch, Kev. 👍
They do that so they make more money from the bashers Kev! Been a BIG FAN since 2017 ish. CHEERS!!!
Love the Grab stick for the Rc's all the way in the back of the Defender 😂
Kev, you flatten everything. Your durability test is the test of all test that i find humor in
I found from removing the shock from the arm that if if I press the arm up I can slip the shock back into the arm way easier. Almost instantly it will just pop or maybe slide is a better word but it’ll go right back into place.
To be honest Kevin: the things you do are sometimes not super smart but my gosh are they enjoyable cuz they dont happen to me. Also: not only because of your channel but today my TT01 was driving for the first time in a while and this time was in an open competition. This was my first time driving real RC car so yeah
Man you on point on this one, i prefer the arrma though they r easier to work plus the battery bs is better on the kraton BUT if the sledge battery tray were universal pff OMG that alone wouldev be a game changer. Sledge is a real nice rc🔥
FIX use needle nose pliers 90deg off from the shaft so ur holding eh side of the ball. Or change the ball to a ball that doesnt hav big flat sides, we have them on helis and airplanes, the OG rc10t was horrible about this issue. Hope this helps
Put a small Allen key through the shock rod end so it’s straight when you put in in the a arm. Slide the Allen out after you get the pivot ball started on the a arm then it will pop right in after the Allen key is removed. 🎉
For shock ends, I find that removing the spring retainer and putting it back on afterwards so that you aren’t fighting against the spring ass much. That’s my tip anyway
I’d like some spring ass indeed
Hes fighting the ball at the end not the spring
@3:53 I use a flathead screwdriver to twist it open wider than normal, cram the rod end in there, and the arm flexes back in place.
Wicked jump to the railing ! Awesome videos
I got those same calipers. Damn good set! Those things have helped be build hundreds of knives lol
That’s m2c tough💪🏻we all know stock chassis wouldn’t take those harsh landings and there isn’t a chassis in existence that would take that landing on a pole with the chassis
I can't wait to see that video!! I didn't even know hpi made that truck...maybe they just sell it here in Canada....😥
13:45 foam does nothing. Still allows the motor to flex. I’ve used metal putty (2 components). Mix it up and press it underneath. Don’t forget to put a bit of tape to your motor first, or it wil be stuck to your motor mount forever.
Nice bash brotha🤙🤙🤙 GPM had recently stepped up their game lately and parts are getting much better!
Rc-Brutal…Kevin you are definitely a RC stress tester! 😂 I’m the same way!
Spit on it Kev, he slips straight in! But seriously flat head screw driver wider than the ball and pry the plastic open, he slips straight in.