Kiln Brings Complex Minimalism to San Francisco Fine Dining

In the second installment of our food series PFG, Omar Mamoon stops by the new tasting menu hot spot Kiln. Opened in May by Chef John Wesley and co-owner and general manager Julianna Yang, the restaurant sits in the former Cala restaurant space at 149 Fell St.
The restaurant offers a 20-course, two-and-a-half-hour tasting menu for $225 or an abridged 90-minute, eight-to-10-course bar menu with a number of other dishes that utilize live fire. Squab legs with claws still intact are gently smoked until the skin gets dark and crispy, while chanterelle mushrooms are grilled and tossed in herb butter and folded into a custard.
But the real stunner is the grilled wild mackerel, which comes about halfway through the meal and is served tableside with a creamy sauce made from dried shellfish.
It’s PFG.
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