2017 UPGRADED DIY CTC I3 Prusa Ebay Clone 3D Printer UPDATE #1
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- čas přidán 7. 04. 2017
- This is an update to the first video I made about my new CTC I3 Prusa ebay clone 3D printer. You can find the first video here: • 2017 UPGRADED DIY CTC ...
This video was shot about 4 - 5 days after taking delivery of the printer and having spent some time getting familiar with it a little more. I have to apologise for the poor narration and video quality (focus) etc but I shot this on my Xperia M5 phone which isn't very good and I'm not used to talking to cameras LOL
I've tried to be informative without being repetitive and boring so hopefully I achieved that. I will be making more videos about my 3D printer and other tinkerings so stay tuned.
I'll also be updating my website / blog more frequently to
sort of accompany these videos. It's basically me going into more depth with more pictures and more write ups etc.
You can find my site at www.m6mdr.co.uk/2017/04/08/my-...
Thanks for watching :) - Věda a technologie
I stuck mine down to a piece of mdf as the frame fixings kept coming loose and going out of square. Also replaced the bits of tube connecting the Z axis steppers to the threaded bar with proper couplings as the bars would work their way out of the hose and put the axis out of square. Also found the threads on the Z axis wear badly so in the process of fitting proper lead screws in place of the threaded bar.
A raspberry pi and Octo PI is a great addition as I can connect to it over my network and upload GCode, start it printing and stop it and even watch it on a webcam.
I bought one of these and found that once set up properly, they work well. I print at 0.15mm ok. Just calibrate the filament feed by feeding 10cm to check it's notover or under feeding and adjust if necessary. As you say, getting the bed level is key. Also slow your print speed, especially on the first layers toget a good 'stick'. Download and print a nozzle parts cooler too.
Hi and thanks for commenting.
My printer came with the glass plate already covered in blue tape which is still on there now lol. I've had no problems with parts coming loose yet. In fact I have the opposite problem - I struggle to free them from the bed.
I've not managed to get down to below 0.2mm layer height successfully yet but I'm still using the stock head and nozzle at 0.4mm so I may it may be pushing it a bit. Are you using the 0.4 nozzle when you're printing down to 0.15mm?
Thanks!
Yes, I'm using a 0.4 nozzle. I've now just added a metal bed and sensor so it now auto levels. That is easily the best upgrade I can recommend, only cost me just under £20.My next upgrade is 8mm lead screws rather than threaded rods.
Thanks Nick. I'll look at trying some prints at 0.15mm. I had just assumed that mine didn't work out at that resolution because the nozzle diameter I was using was too big. Now I know it can be done, I'm going to work on that.
Yes I'm definitely going to look into bed leveling and the other most important thing I need to sort out is cooling for overhanging prints. I've just not found any designs I'm happy with that fit the stock print head / nozzle for my I3 Pro B clone that I can print without needing cooling to do so.
My friend had one of these I3 Pro B Clones and he rebuilt his using just threaded rod and smooth rod and he also installed bed leveling and it works great.
After Upgrading the extruder to a e3d titan and flashing firmware to current marlin i am happy with the printer
I love the Marlin Firmware it is one of - if not the best I've tried.
Just lately I've been noticing waves in the walls of my print and upon closer inspection I have found the cause.
As the X carriage is raised and lowered by the threaded rods, the extruder is tilting forwards and backwards in sympathy with the slight curve in the threaded rods. It also does this in the X plane as well so all of my side walls on my prints have waves at set intervals. So I've decided to do two things. Firstly I'm going to upgrade my extruder to a Bowden so I can get the weight of the stepper motor completely off my X Carriage and also I've just printed out some anti Z wobble brackets to try.
Apart from the annoying Z wobble, everything else has been running great. I'm still impressed with these cheap 3D printers.
I also purchased a Tevo Tarantula back in April for my Birthday to add to my 3D Printer Collection. I've just started to build it up now I've cleared some room for it. It's about 80% built but I've decided I'm going to print out and include some of the recommended mods and upgrades for it before I get too carried away.
The first things I've printed for the Tarantula are the support bases which firmly fixes the printer to the bench so it cant move or wobble and I've also printed out some angle support brackets too. I'm looking forward to trying out this bad boy when it's built. :)
I got 1 of these about a month ago but i cant figure out y theres layer lines sticking out the sides of the prints. And i can do tge x y z calibration becuase i cant get exact measurments to then set the steps right
You are lucky :D i have the same printer, taken me a decent weeks work to calibrate the mechine, my frame and threded rods were all rubish, the frame came missing the bottom on one side, and the rids were covered in metal shards, i mean, you get what you pay for so meh, but its been an awesome learning experience!
I would suggest upgrading the extruder to an mk8 if you ever wanted too, its what i have done and improves quality a worthwhile amount :)
Can u show us your settings on the auctial printer so i can copy them
lucky. mine has been trouble out the box. had many parts sent to me and blew up a board from the new parts. things stuffed
Hey, i dont know why lcd shows "bed heating" and always is on 24º ....dont heat up..
whats wrong with it?
Hi,
Firstly, double check all your wiring and connections and make sure they are all firm and making good contact and that everything is connected to where it is supposed to be etc. I know it sounds silly and obvious but this simple thing can often be the cause of many nightmare problems. I suggest doing this with the power turned off however!
I made a few wiring boo boos myself when putting my printer together. It's easy to do with so many unused pins on the control board and the manual not being the best thing in the world to follow. I suggest finding some modern wiring instructions to follow instead of the manual that comes with the printer. It just causes confusion.
The control board that came with my printer is very very similar to a GT-2560 3D printer board. In fact, I think it is an identical clone. When I wired my printer up, I gave up with the instructions and I googled a wiring diagram for the 2560 board and followed that and it was spot on.
If that doesn't resolve your issues, do you have a multimeter and are you confident using it? If so, you will need to do some tests with the power turned on and the printer attempting to run a print job (bed heating etc).
The first thing I would check is that you have DC voltage on the printer's power supply where the heated bed wires are connected. I would expect to see anything from 12 - 24V DC (some printers run 24 volts). If there's no voltage present at all or it's anything below 12V, I would suspect a faulty power supply. If there is voltage, do the next test.
If there is ~12V DC coming from the Power Supply, I would next test the points where the heated bed power wires are soldered on to the underside of the heated bed to make sure the 12V power is making it from the power supply, down the wires to the heated bed to rule out that there are no breaks in the heated bed power wires. If there's voltage at the soldered joints on the underside of the heated bed then I would suspect a faulty / broken heat bed.
At this point, I'll stop and wait for you to get back to me with your results rather than roll off 101 tests and confuse you. Hopefully you'll report back that it's working and it was just a bad / wrong connection.
If not, I have more tests in mind to narrow down the issue.
Also at the end of each test you will notice I say "I suspect this or I suspect that". It doesn't necessarily mean that is the problem so don't panic. The idea is to rule out stuff and follow the clues so if your power supply isn't giving out 12V, it doesn't automatically mean it's broken - there could be something in common that connects all the problems to a solution. The idea is to work through every step logically ruling stuff out along the way until we hit the nail on the head.
If you're new to this stuff, it can seem quite nerve wrecking and long winded but it's actually quite quick and logical once you get into it.
Let me know how you get on and we'll take it from there.
We'll get you up and running. Don't worry =]
Thanks!!! The problem was the conexion wiring....I dont know why it was working fine before (A bad contact maybe) ..but i wired them and i solved the problem.
One more time thanks for your help.
Hi Lider,
I'm so glad it's working for you now and that it was a simple fix. I've had similar problems in the past where I've pushed the wires too far in to the connectors and clamped the insulation rather than the wire. It's easily done - especially if the connectors are fairly deep =]
Any further problems, please don't hesitate to ask for help. I'm always around!
the spare parts you printed where did you get the files from ?
Hi, I use www.thingiverse.com/ for many 3D files.
Tiny's World I got it all setup and got new filament as the stuff that come with it was very brittle after leveling out I printed batman boomerang as a test glass moved slightly so that's now fixed, the only problem I seem to have is on auto home the head don't zero out at the bed, any ideas ?
U printing too fast buddy. U had it on 100 percent. Slow it downto around 50 and 0.2 layer height i get good results with mine.