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Order 1808 SMD fuse online (fast-acting, 15A), or if you're shopping from a local distributor, i think you're looking for LittleFuse Nano 451 series. RAMPS is pointless today when you can get an MKS, but this video is from back in 2017, so...

@@SianaGearz Thanks for your suggestion. In fact it was my 10A fuse for the hotend...I now know that I need a new fan. Unfortunately I caused another short by trying to test the voltage across the pins that supply the fan!

@@etoile6216 on Geeetech boards (even genuine ones) the fan MOSFET is a weak spot. Fan is usually difficult to kill? If you need help testing and repairing the fan MOSFET section of the board, let me know. Though in case of failure, usually, the fan just runs all the time without control by processor.

This is not a genuine Geeetech board. This is a clone made by CTC. You can tell by numerous facts * Geeetech uses blue screw terminals, not green plug-screw terminals * on CTC clone, LCD/SD connectors have their shrouds reversed, which they had to do because they got reject screens with reversed shrouds too. The shroud key should point to wards the edge of the board, but on CTC it points towards the middle. * The silkscreen reads "2560 Rev.A" on CTC clone near the processor but "GT2560 Rev.A" or "GT2560 Rev.A+" on genuine. Additional differences: general component sourcing quality, 1280 processor on clone instead of 2560 (lower program capacity), lack of bootloader on clone so you can't easily reprogram it via USB. Genuine GT2560 board is remarkably good, it has good components, electrical stability and fusing, but has following issues: * the Molex 4-pin connector for power input is not long-term suitable and is known to overheat and burn out eventually. * the tiny little PWM-FAN MOSFET Q5 is an unreliable piece of shit, only works OK for a single small fan. * be careful with MOSFET heatsinks, if you knock them too hard and they burrow into the board through the silkscreen, bad things will happen. * the manufacturing quality is OK at best - scratched silkscreen, unwashed flux or unknown residue. Additionally, the component selection for 12V and 24V versions is different. The board is engineered to support a 10A bed, but the fuse must be 15A for tolerance. When the fuse triggers, the fuse holder should never be crispy - contamination of holder with flux or dirt or quality of fuse holder likely at fault.

@@SianaGearz I agree with you. I had both. bottom line... don't buy CTC

Thats not a faulty downstream part. It's the board at 10..15A being overrated. I have the delta from Geeetech, and those fuses get rather hot during use. Same for the FETs, especially the hot bed. Also the green hotend and bed connectors are rather week. They are typically rated für around 10A a quality suppliers. These are unlabeled components, likely clones. The ATX connector ist also not good for the current. On my board even the wires get hot. They are labeled as 1.5mm2, but it seems they are smaller. I used XT60 connectors from power supply to frame and only left the last 10cm with the ATX. I used speaker cable with 2.5mm2 (single pair) and its absolutly cold, while the supposed 1.5mm2 (doubled pairs!) original cables get warm. My recommendation: I replaced the hotbed connector with PCB screw terminals rated to 24A (Degson DG129-5.0-02P-14-00AH). The heat bed connector already showed charred spots. The STP66NF06 were replaced by PSMN2R0-30PL (Nexperia), cost around 1.7€ each. These are 2mOhms vs. 15mOhms for the original STPs. They are extremly low logic levels and are useable even with 3V3 logic. They are now just barely feelable warm to the touch. I left the heatsinks for mechanical purpose. Thanks for the fuse warning, may be I'll use external fuses and bridge the board fuse.

Did you updated to ramps 1.4? My GT2560 isn't working, I have a mega2560 and I don't want to spend 35€ for this.

Hello, I had the same problem... Since I didn't had a similar fuse I took the burned part out of the board and solder 2 wires of a car fuse older, and used it with a car 15A fuse... Not a professional thing I know but it works without any problem (it's like this for more than a year)

I'm sorry to hear this but am not surprised. It seems all these items I've purchased from Chinese sellers are coming back to bite me in the ass. The 3D Printer I ordered which is only just 6 months old has burned out. Neither the seller, the manufacturers or any of the other parties involved in the sale (card issuer, PayPal etc) are interested in providing me any solutions. All the seller has to do is ignore me and he's all good. And my Credit Card Provider seems to think that beyond 120 days I shouldn't need any cover or protection so basically I shouldn't expect anything I buy using their card to last beyond 120 days. Warranties and protection assurances aren't worth the paper they're printed on or the breath they're spoken with... And now I find out the £500 CNC machine I purchased in good faith is actually comprised of fraudulent parts..... Nice one eBay! So long as the cash is flowing eBay seem to be turning a blind eye to some dodgy sellers and practices more and more it seems. And when buyers get stung and try to do something about it, we're on our own as I'm discovering. I've since made my mind up that I wont be buying anything from China or Chinese sellers above the value of £5 anymore. It's just not worth the hassle. Later on it turns out to be cheap useless shit and they can just run off with your money without any worries at all. Buyer Be Ware I guess....

Hi Martin. Thanks for replying! The evening this happened, before investigating the problem in depth, I just assumed the worse and went ahead and ordered a MK3 Heated Bed and a complete RAMPS 1.4 Kit. I had planned to upgrade the printer to auto bed leveling in the future anyway so this seemed like the best time to do it. Fortunately, before the printer died, I managed to print out some anti-wobble Z bearing brackets which I've also fitted. They allow the X carriage to free float so any wobble from the threaded bars isn't translated to my prints. I guess you could say this incident has done me a favor. It is worth pointing out that this appears to be a known problem with the GT-2560A board. I've since found instances of this happening to other people too on the internet. I've tried contacting CTC (the printer manufacturer) and Geeetech (the GT-2560 board manufacturer) and neither have replied so I can see they're real interested. I also note that Geeetech have closed down their forums (possibly due to other reasons) to any new registrations so I couldn't contact them there either. Looks like this is another product only guaranteed to the white line... I'm just thankful it was only a blown fuse with some scorching of the board and not worse.

Don't know much about the board or your printer but the basics are all the same across all the platforms. I'm sure it's a open source board with schematics and uses Marlin firmware. I'd double check your not shorted though. Bed screw into a trace on the bed which could show up after the bed is heated due to thermal expansion. Short disconnects after cooling. Even if you replace the board your short may reappear with your new board (poof).. You could do bed leveling with this board as well just have to turn it on in firmware. Yea I dunno much about Geeetech, been busting one of their printers pretty hard on my channel but I do electronics and not doing a 3d printing channel. Just needed a printer for a custom project box. Since I was going to all the effort I decided to tackle some of the issue with mine and share with whomever cares. Sure seems like a lot of confusion over these printers, it all reminds me of Hoverboards and Vaporizers so I guess this Christmas will be 3d printer fires in the news.

I love the Marlin Firmware it is one of - if not the best I've tried. Just lately I've been noticing waves in the walls of my print and upon closer inspection I have found the cause. As the X carriage is raised and lowered by the threaded rods, the extruder is tilting forwards and backwards in sympathy with the slight curve in the threaded rods. It also does this in the X plane as well so all of my side walls on my prints have waves at set intervals. So I've decided to do two things. Firstly I'm going to upgrade my extruder to a Bowden so I can get the weight of the stepper motor completely off my X Carriage and also I've just printed out some anti Z wobble brackets to try. Apart from the annoying Z wobble, everything else has been running great. I'm still impressed with these cheap 3D printers. I also purchased a Tevo Tarantula back in April for my Birthday to add to my 3D Printer Collection. I've just started to build it up now I've cleared some room for it. It's about 80% built but I've decided I'm going to print out and include some of the recommended mods and upgrades for it before I get too carried away. The first things I've printed for the Tarantula are the support bases which firmly fixes the printer to the bench so it cant move or wobble and I've also printed out some angle support brackets too. I'm looking forward to trying out this bad boy when it's built. :)

Hi, I use www.thingiverse.com/ for many 3D files.

Tiny's World I got it all setup and got new filament as the stuff that come with it was very brittle after leveling out I printed batman boomerang as a test glass moved slightly so that's now fixed, the only problem I seem to have is on auto home the head don't zero out at the bed, any ideas ?

Hi, Firstly, double check all your wiring and connections and make sure they are all firm and making good contact and that everything is connected to where it is supposed to be etc. I know it sounds silly and obvious but this simple thing can often be the cause of many nightmare problems. I suggest doing this with the power turned off however! I made a few wiring boo boos myself when putting my printer together. It's easy to do with so many unused pins on the control board and the manual not being the best thing in the world to follow. I suggest finding some modern wiring instructions to follow instead of the manual that comes with the printer. It just causes confusion. The control board that came with my printer is very very similar to a GT-2560 3D printer board. In fact, I think it is an identical clone. When I wired my printer up, I gave up with the instructions and I googled a wiring diagram for the 2560 board and followed that and it was spot on. If that doesn't resolve your issues, do you have a multimeter and are you confident using it? If so, you will need to do some tests with the power turned on and the printer attempting to run a print job (bed heating etc). The first thing I would check is that you have DC voltage on the printer's power supply where the heated bed wires are connected. I would expect to see anything from 12 - 24V DC (some printers run 24 volts). If there's no voltage present at all or it's anything below 12V, I would suspect a faulty power supply. If there is voltage, do the next test. If there is ~12V DC coming from the Power Supply, I would next test the points where the heated bed power wires are soldered on to the underside of the heated bed to make sure the 12V power is making it from the power supply, down the wires to the heated bed to rule out that there are no breaks in the heated bed power wires. If there's voltage at the soldered joints on the underside of the heated bed then I would suspect a faulty / broken heat bed. At this point, I'll stop and wait for you to get back to me with your results rather than roll off 101 tests and confuse you. Hopefully you'll report back that it's working and it was just a bad / wrong connection. If not, I have more tests in mind to narrow down the issue. Also at the end of each test you will notice I say "I suspect this or I suspect that". It doesn't necessarily mean that is the problem so don't panic. The idea is to rule out stuff and follow the clues so if your power supply isn't giving out 12V, it doesn't automatically mean it's broken - there could be something in common that connects all the problems to a solution. The idea is to work through every step logically ruling stuff out along the way until we hit the nail on the head. If you're new to this stuff, it can seem quite nerve wrecking and long winded but it's actually quite quick and logical once you get into it. Let me know how you get on and we'll take it from there. We'll get you up and running. Don't worry =]

Thanks!!! The problem was the conexion wiring....I dont know why it was working fine before (A bad contact maybe) ..but i wired them and i solved the problem. One more time thanks for your help.

Hi Lider, I'm so glad it's working for you now and that it was a simple fix. I've had similar problems in the past where I've pushed the wires too far in to the connectors and clamped the insulation rather than the wire. It's easily done - especially if the connectors are fairly deep =] Any further problems, please don't hesitate to ask for help. I'm always around!

That's as it came from the manufacturer. It was pre-fitted to the glass bed already.

then they did a terrible jobb :D

Hehe yes, they did. I've not bothered changing simply because it doesn't really affect my test prints.

Thanks Steve.

Hi and thanks for commenting. My printer came with the glass plate already covered in blue tape which is still on there now lol. I've had no problems with parts coming loose yet. In fact I have the opposite problem - I struggle to free them from the bed. I've not managed to get down to below 0.2mm layer height successfully yet but I'm still using the stock head and nozzle at 0.4mm so I may it may be pushing it a bit. Are you using the 0.4 nozzle when you're printing down to 0.15mm? Thanks!

Yes, I'm using a 0.4 nozzle. I've now just added a metal bed and sensor so it now auto levels. That is easily the best upgrade I can recommend, only cost me just under £20.My next upgrade is 8mm lead screws rather than threaded rods.

Thanks Nick. I'll look at trying some prints at 0.15mm. I had just assumed that mine didn't work out at that resolution because the nozzle diameter I was using was too big. Now I know it can be done, I'm going to work on that. Yes I'm definitely going to look into bed leveling and the other most important thing I need to sort out is cooling for overhanging prints. I've just not found any designs I'm happy with that fit the stock print head / nozzle for my I3 Pro B clone that I can print without needing cooling to do so. My friend had one of these I3 Pro B Clones and he rebuilt his using just threaded rod and smooth rod and he also installed bed leveling and it works great.

Please, don't cripple your printer with the Z Axis threaded rod sleeves. They must be able to move freely, if not you'll get Z-wobble artifacts easily. Too small holes, with Cura check draw outer walls first.

Thanks for the advice :) I've decided against using these bushings now as the printer doesn't seem too bad for Z wobble issues. There is some waving going on on the side walls but it's barely anything to gripe about. I'm a firm believer in don't fix it if it ain't broken so I won't LOL :)