This is a good book. Does provide a step by step introduction to how to build things czcams.com/users/postUgkxhgbP-6hUnXu_QRaoHgLztgsI0YF3HqR0 , also does offer some steps. Includes pictures to give you ideas for layouts and such. If you are looking for a guide, this is not exactly what you want. But if you are trying to familiarize yourself with the way that pole barn building and other out buildings, are made, then this will work just as you need it to. A few things in this book are a barn (of course), detached garage, storage building, and coops.
I love that your closer was to tell people to check with local experts. You dont see that a lot on youtube. Most people like to throw out their opinions and say thats the bottom line. I like that you advised that not all could apply to someone in a different situation.
Steel reinforced Insulated Concrete Form or ICF walls is what structural engineers consider to be the strongest for building homes. The University of Oklahoma fired lumber at 200mph at different types of walls and only ICF could withstand such a hit. Hence they recommended this for safe rooms in Tornado prone areas. My house is built with it and it looks like a traditional stick frame house from the interior and exterior once you put siding on it. Also has an R50 insulation and very quiet sound rating.
Your advanced vs traditional framing segment from 2012 was what turned me on to your videos. Thank you for the over year of waiting in anticipation for the next video.
That "advanced house" is built bad. Look at that "header hanger" Its attached with bugle head screws (big no no) and holes are left unattached. There is virtually no load transfer to the king stud. You NEED trimmers in that window, plain and simple. Most new houses are built with 2x6 16 inches oc anyway. The 16 inches provides better anchoring for drywall and siding. "Advanced framing" is more like "cheapo contractor building a crappy house to maximize prophet."
Travis B It's 5/8" drywall. Everything is bulked up. It's mind boggling how much building on 24" centers there is in Texas, where this guy is building. Especially roofing. Amazingly it holds up fairly well because there's no snow load there.
Daddy Sheldon Garbage, right.... better insulation with less structure, the hell with that. I'll take the heating/ac bill over that paper thin piece of garbage house. Single studs at the corners.... no 4x4's or doubled 2x4's??? Plus those garbage 2x4 trusses in the roof are crap for snow load. Trusses are good for span but can't carry shit. I'll go with the "tried and true" WFCM.
Tom Foolery He's building in Austin Texas. There is no snow load to consider. Many houses, especially older ones have 2x4 roof trusses on 2' centers. 3/8" decking is the minimum for sheathing roofs here in Texas. Most use 1/2" sheathing but it's unbelievable that such substandard construction is acceptable here.
says there is no room to insulate in the corner as there is sprayfoam oozing out... that corner was insulated. also those header "lintel" hangers look like cheap beer cans cut up and screwed on. the header "lintel" in the tradtional home could have been built up with one 2x12 on the outside and one on the inside wall and an insulated cavity in the center. called a box lintel. I hate it when people try to sell shitty products buy trying to tell everybody that what is being done now isn't sufficient. meanwhile if done correctly you can effectively insulate a home in Winnipeg.
Colin Knockaert The entire time he was saying "can't be insulated" I was thinking about the times I insulated them XD it's not max insulation but it's better then a damn 2x4 header for sure. I like hefty not whimpy!
ubvids It’s crap framing. However if don’t properly by lining the wall frame with the 2nd floor joists then the joists with the rafters you can get away with it. It’s just shit work
I am a professional. Those are load bearing walls and I say why cut down extra trees and burn extra natural gas when engineers and decades of building experience say the house holds up perfectly well without all that wasted wood. In my experience “over-engineered” generally means “un-engineered.” Advanced framing was developed by engineers, has been around for decades and is not considered a novel building technique.
Up here in the great white north we have been using rigid foam sheathing for years. Also a 3 stud inside corner works great for both insulation and backing. We call it an "L" corner
Each of the areas you were showing that didn't have insulation were insulated. Also when we build a corner or partition we insulate during framing process. We also insulate the headers during construction. South Dakota has both warm and cold seasons so very important. Advance framing sounds more like areas where codes are a lot more lax.
One crew I worked on insulated during the framing process, especially in between the joists that are up tight against the rim where the insulator wouldn't be able to reach it from the bottom, but honestly its a garbage way to do it. What happens when it rains before they get the roof/exterior weatherproofing on? All that fiberglass insulation gets soaked and balls up, making it useless. If you're spray foaming its a different story I guess, but I doubt many framing crews keep foam guns on hand.
Here we've been building with 2x6 exterior walls for years now but we're starting to go back to 2x4 exterior walls and completely doing exterior insulation, walls and roof. You get a more complete seal using a galvanized Z bar and spray foam insulation outside, almost as if youre covering the house with a blanket. All about maximizing square footage and at the same time water proofing your home with the spray foam insulation. Another that I really like about the exterior insulation is the inside of your framing is completely open and clean for all your wiring, plumbing and hvac.
"how to build a house that's gonna last a couple of generations" He says that like it's a good thing. Thats only 50 years. In the UK i'm regularly working on stuff that's 120 years old and still going strong.
I don’t think I’ve ever read so many close minded comments in my life. Doesn’t matter what you think if you’re not a engineer and you don’t know what you’re talking about. Just because it’s been done one way for 100 years doesn’t mean there’s not room for change or improvement. Grow up people!!!
A builder even more old than I am told me years ago to not use any building method unless it has been used for a hundred years, good advice. It takes thirty years sometimes for the junk to fail. Wait for the OSB floor truss blowup. It is already in the mail.
Randy, I have been reading your comments, and I couldn't agree More! My Dad was a Builder all his life. I would certainly hire you to build me a cinder block and brick house, I have wanted one forever, for the structural integrity, but especially for heating and cooling costs! I wish more American consumers were like you, if Americans would stop purchasing any medicines that have not been on the market for at least 30 yrs, we could take down "Big Pharma" along with Drastically lower medicine Co$ts for us all. (including meds for your pet's fleas, I don't give my dogs 'insecticides' to be ingested as "medicine") Commercials for medicine are illegal in all but 2 Nations on Earth. They didn't start medicine commercials until the 1990's here, they were illegal. I guarantee you any commercial about a new med, is a giant money maker, and the patent will run out in 10 yrs, unless they find another "use" for it, These Drug companies are robbing all of us, and we still can't legally even purchase our meds from Canada. Keep up the good work, Randy. There are still some of us with common sense..I hate to say it, but if it weren't for the lawyers, many More bad Medicines would be in all our stomachs, bc GREED...Corporatism, similar to communism, just a different bad guy...
Richard Thomason trying different things is one thing. Telling me you're taking out my solid header and cripple studs so you can put insulation in there is a joke. Insulation won't hold up your house. I've been around this stuff all of my life. I've seen and learned a lot. And one thing I've learned is most new "techniques" are cost driven not quality driven. I'd rather build a house that i have full faith in that might cost 100 a month to heat or cool than build something that can save you 10 bucks a month on energy usage but can't hold itself up when you turn on your shop fan.
The comments on this thread are all well thought out and relevant, learned a few things. Though how would you build the best bang for your buck insulated home is the question we need to be answering. Current building techniques in the US industry as a whole are lacking.
I've watched three of these videos now and what I'm hearing is "Less stout, more efficient. They built them too well in the past." Sounds like a modern pickup truck engineer.
A couple of things. AV also requires single top plates and the floor joists, exterior studs, and roof trusses should be aligned if possible. The alignment allows transmission of the load straight down to the foundation.
If built right the homeowner can survive any but the worst tornado, I have been building in Texas a long time and did my best to make sure the homes I built could withstand high winds.
If you are actually interested Minnesota gets an average on 36 tornadoes per year. Our last deadly tornado was in 2011. Basically every year there is a large property damage tornado somewhere in the state.
I don't think there is any sort of construction short of post and beam that will hold up to that. We build like this in the Northeast. 2x6 walls, 24 oc, still use a traditional header though, with styro in between.
If you actually look into the science behind insulating, Its not a huge deal that the header and corners are not insulated. The cost behind changing that, outweighs the savings by a mile. on paper, sure. in real life, not a big deal like you are making it out to be.
could you please link the articles you're referring to? I'd like to read and educate myself, because I've read the contrary from the findings of a university masters class in envelope engineering. thanks in advance.
I have been a builder for fifty four years and I went to engineering school for three years. I have seen so many "new ideas" come and fail in my building career. This house is evidently in Austin Texas, where I am typing this comment; it is commie central for Texas. Austin's entire focus is on new edge, "energy saving" construction. Look at the corners in the "advanced" framing. The corners of a home are the weakest point in a home; usually only three 2x4 studs and a few nails in the top plates are all that is holding the corner together, plus the OSB sheathing, nailed to the studs. That is not much holding power for high winds. But the "advanced" framing is counting on a single corner 2x6 with one 1 1/2" edge for the weakest side. That is asking a lot from a 2x6. Plus in Texas the most important item in insulation is the ceiling, joists plane. The heat comes in through the ceiling from the attic (if there is one). Concentrate on the ceiling plane with as few penetrations as possible and of course good insulation above. If you want good insulation in a wall, build the wall out of cinder block and brick, or better yet two cinder block and one brick walls for you outer walls. The tree huggers sit in their offices in Austin and their actual building experience is almost nil. They rely on theory, but mostly ideology. Every state inflicted "new idea" should be weighed against the cost benefit to the home owner; not some "energy saving" theory. Ask the home owner if they want to "save energy" at the cost of losing the safety a well built home brings.
Randy Ward this isn't new. most of these concepts have been implemented in Canada for decades, simply because the energy loads homes experience are much greater, and they perform much better than traditionally framed houses both in structural rigidity and energy performance. If we are to continue building wood structured homes, there has to be done changes before we start seeing our forests and tree farms not able to meet demand. The structure of homes has not seen any major developments in over a hundreds years, that's a problem, because our world has changed. It has nothing to do with "communism", and everything to do with making our homes in step with modern needs and requirements. I wouldn't want to try and use a computer from the 1950's, I don't really want a house that performs like one either.
The best way to treehug is to build a house that lasts. Insulation filled hollow brick walls could last for generations and are even good enought for German treehugging officials.
While some of the ideas presented here might be workable in certain parts of the country, I don't see how they would work in areas with harsh climates, or heavy snow loading. And I just can't see how a header bracket that is relying entirely on the shear strength of the fasteners is at all safe.
I've remodeled countless buildings and one thing is for sure. When you open up the walls and find the real deal 2x4's. The ones that make modern 2x4's look like cute little babies. You know you have a beast built my craftsmen on your hands
Curtis Poss this guy is an idiot! Why doesn’t he mention size of Sheetrock? I’ve seen 1/2 in on 24 o.c. If you barely lean on it or fart on it your going right through the wall!😂😆🤣 I’ve done traditional and am certified in framing and masonry That’s what separate the low cost guys of the streets from the educated craftsman!
@@frankieespinosa5364 IDK if he did on this vid or another, but he says that with 24"oc, he goes 5/8 sheet in and out. So there goes any savings on stud material.... He also says in another video that ZipR that thick is NOT a structural sheeting, so wall diag bracing or other wall stiffening needs done with the thick, high R zip r.
Not sold on header hangers. They'd make nailing casing a nightmare and there is no positive load bearing in the header system. Not to mention bulging the drywall at every door and window opening. I'd also prefer 19.2" OC walls to 24" for purposes of drywall and wall sheathing rigidity.
MJorgy5 but they are engineered. They do great if an opening is too small the we remove the trimmer and good as gold. The hangers work but i don't prefer.
All this is is an advertisement for some building products and builders. I would like to know how the sheeting board is attached. If it's inside the osb is not shear if it's on the outside it's not nailed properly
I mean you could just nail around the hangers, but I could see myself easily going along and forget rhe plate, end up swearing at them when I'd feel the backpush of a nailer on metal only to see a deformed nail that doesnt want to come out or go in.
There are so many good comments on this vid and most of the negative ones aren't flames. It's people just giving their hard earned experience. Everything can't be about insulation and it seems that some people are willing to sacrifice some structural integrity for a tick higher R value. That's insane to me. Where I live we have to deal with tornadoes, floods, and the occasional shake from the New Madrid fault. I don't mind if my home is a little overbuilt.
Dear editor: can we dispense with the strange angles and random focus on his hands while he's talking? It's not a Kubrick film and it distracts from the information being given.
I'm a traditional framer...and all your insulation ain't gonna do shit ....if shit starts sagging....ive done flitch plates as well...very strong...but when an inspector comes on the job and says wow...well done...its a great feeling.......when an inspector comes to a job and you have to explain your method cuz he hasn't seen them in the field yet.....lmao.....he is just gonna walk around and check everything.....this guy is the type of guy you see at home shows trying to sell you the latest bullshit ......
Matt, I appreciate the show. I'm a little confused by the ZIP sheathing with insulation. I can see the benefit in the overall insulation of the house, but what about the strength of the house in regards to racking? Seems like the insulation would lower the strength as it would introduce a point of flexibility. Especially in the high R value versions. It almost seems as though it should be installed in reverse with the insulation on the outside. Am I nuts? What am I missing?
Worked in R & C construction for 40 plus years as Brick Mason. Done just about every trade for myself. I agree w you. The OSB should be tight to the studs, then the insulation, otherwise the OSB does not give the required lateral strength
It’s kind of like- laying 3.5” brick veneer too far from the studs- ex- 1”-2” then the wall becomes more unstable & wall ties have to be farther from the house to anchor to the brick.
This video needs to be called Traditional vs hack framing. Brought to you by Simpson, werhouser, and the people that really like to glue shit together.
Tom Foolery his examples for issues in traditional framing are considered rookie mistakes. Also it may have been a trick of the camera but it didn't look like the cripples made contact with the headers, making them unless. Lastly many builders use ladder blocking for interior to exterior connections, however the only reason you're getting cold pockets in your corners is because you are assembling them wrong, intentionally, for the sake of the video. want more R value? INCREASE the THICKNESS of the WALL. Also a closed cavity gap between the siding and the wall also contributes to R value.
R-value is constantly mentioned in many videos along with air sealing but no mention of spray foam. Spray foam accomplishes both and goes around plumbing and wiring and weird cavities, etc.
I do framing and that 'advance framing' is ish... 16 oc is better than that 24oc. Yes your saving wood with 24oc but not rigid enough or as strong with 16oc walls. And those hangers?? Like really... Tf out of here.
I totally agree. There needs to be a balance between saving space and sturdiness and 24oc is an extreme, while the other house is on the exact opposite end of the spectrum. Finding a mix where safety and strength are combined with insulation maximization seems not to exist in this video.
Great tips and info once again Mr. Risinger. I'm new to construction and you have taught me soo much about doing things the right way. Thanks man, keep it coming please sir
Here in Canada where we get -40 in the winter we frame traditionally but our exterior walls have to meet a "true" r22 value. Exterior Styrofoam, 2x6 walls triple pane argon gas windows and r60 in the attic are all very common. You can get good r value without using all those weird hangers around windows
If you focus just on insulation HELL just build the house out of foam. Framing is structural having 2x6 @ 24oc means any warpage which there always is. One 2x6 stud warped put a 4' bow in the wall. I want my house to last a little more then 10 years. full size headers, king studs, trimmers and cripples on 16" centers In all my houses. Nails only hold structural members (trimmers and headers etc.) in place and are NEVER used in sear force like the hardware being used here. Advancement framing has to be better structural not just better insulated. A warm house that the doors and windows don't work very well doesn't matter much. This type of building is how they build modular and mobile homes not the 700k home I build here in So. Cal.
The NAHB published a handbook with many of these techniques and more, including plywood box headers in exterior walls. They suggested the plywood could skimmed & tapped to eliminate the drywall over windows & doors. This was back in the 70's! Might be some new ideas here but allot have been around for a long time.
Terrible idea. 24 inch on center was tried back in the 1970s to cut costs. Bad idea. Your old enough to remember why. Wavy walls everywhere. Remember lumber has a a a crown to it. That's why everyone went back to 16" oc.
spartaeus: ehm, every house in Norway is built 60 cm (24") on center. It works great. We used 2x4 lumber for exterior walls 30 years ago, now we use 2x8. Btw, a 2x8 here is 48x198 mm, which is a bit bigger than the American 2x8, which is really 1.5"x7.25", or 38x184 mm.
Well not everyone. In eastern Pennsylvania, approx 10 yrs ago I worked for a home builder doing 80ish homes a year. Exterior walls were always 2x6's 24" oc, except garages which were 2x4 but still 24" oc.
Like i always say there is more then one way to skin a cat who cares how the house is built as long as it dont fallon me in the middle of the night im happy i know guy who will use one nail per stud on the im side part of the stud the humdred or so nails on used to sheet the extirror of the was holds it all together mind you that not my method but
i've been framing here in Canada for 30yrs and never once framed a house with 2x4,, always 2x6 16" O.C. and sometimes 12" O.C... I'm from the east coast and now live in central ontario,, and the "National building Codes" are different given the region... i.e. 'snowloads' with dimension lumber for different regions, plus in carpenter trade school, we learned how to 'stick frame a roof' vs truss systems.. and only stick framed a roof once.. all the others were truss systems!
I've seen houses build over a hundred years ago withstand hurricane after hurricane with a single metal strap anywhere and new home with all the 'new technology' blow away in a small hurricane. Seems to me we should be studying there methods and why they work.
Using the word like "Advance Framing" is a kin to calling lunatic anarchist liberals, "Progressive". Thank you for making it a point for me to take a stud finder on my next home purchase to avoid the 24" cheap house.
1:05 Those closed corners are not "traditional framing". They are flat wrong. You never do a corner like that unless certain circumstances force you to. In that case, the framer would pre-insulate while building. The correct way is with a 3-stud "L" set up which give full structural connection AND leaves access for insulating. Also the interior/exterior intersection. No, that's not a dead air space. That was done correctly, by making an "L" which is open on one side so you can tuck insulation in behind it , just like you would with a "ladder" (which is actually less efficient for drywalling). As for the "advanced" house... there's very little "advanced" about it. Just a couple different methods and materials that could be used anywhere.
Glad you're talking about this. Important topic, getting more insulation in the walls and speeding up cycle time while using fewer materials. Still AF is frustrating. Wobbly walls, for one. Metal clips for another. - Ladder blocking is gold medal IMO compared to channel transitions. I run ladder blocking flat to the interior face of the stud in remodeling applications so it can be fully insulated from behind. This seems like it should be OK in new construction too.
It's so sad were building homes these days that won't last 20 years before they start falling down! I see homes all the time built a lot like part two of this video just 5 years ago and they are JUNK already.....
Yeah, I was painting new home interiors a few years back, they were slapped together at top speed, problems everywhere, from excavation/ foundation settling - shifting, on up.this was during a construction boom when the ' gold rush' mentality sets in.as soon as the boom peaks & declnes, all the shady Reuben - dubens are the first to run out of work ( no offense to anyone named Reuben, thats a cool name)
Well done with your desire to experiment and learn - keep it up and ignore the haters /armchair specialists - change is vital to progress. Greetings from Ireland.
Change is not good in itself and is not progress in itself. He can "experiment" on his house, or yours, but as a structural engineer (yes) I can say this "change" is not new, is not advanced, is not good, and will not meet many building codes. You may return to your manual drafting table now.
I'll spend the extra couple bucks on my heating bill thank you very much. This seems cheap and 24" spacing sounds terrible. I already get annoyed with stud spacing whenever I need to instal a shelf, wall mounted TV or any of my SO's Ikea crap.
Sick home. Houses need to "breathe". When you build houses tight it cost a lot of money to condition that space it goes from a simple Hvac system into multiple units to not only condition the air but to treat the air due to making such a tight envelope. And for sure this guys way of doing things turns a 250,000 dollar build into a million dollar build.
Ya I think I'd just remember to shut a couple lights off and maybe turn a heater down every now and again rather than have 24" exterior studs for the sole purpose of insulation .Matt even said in the comments that 15% is max energy savings... that is a tiny benefit for living a lifetime of trying to find studs to mount literally anything not to mention just hoping someone doesnt lean back on your wall to hard in the middle. Sad!
I would rather take the bridge that was built for a 40,000 lb truck to drive across and take my 5000lb truck across it every day vs trying to have an engineer redesign structural parts to make the road less bumpy at the cost of integrity... and by that I am talking about 24" exterior studs and those wimp headers. It's not an argument, that is literally what they are doing. Sacrificing structural integrity for some fringe benefit in heat savings. Btw 15 percent being significant is incredibly subjective and also not an argument.
NexusCapital why are they lyinh tho. i tbought we wete trying to make this a better place? and hes talking like yea get this one. smh wtf when does it end poor homeowners. not really one mind cant exsist wirhout the other
That's why you use 2 x 6 framing, which structurally is more than adequate. I have built for 40 years as well as spent nine years as a certified building inspector, and I wish we could have had advanced framing back in the day. Old habits and attitudes die slow. I think AF is great.
I was a professional General Contractor for almost forty years and born and raised in the business am a fourth generation carpenter that went through many years of apprenticeship under two of the best but meanest old Germans in the country this house wouldn't ever meet my stringent requirements ever. We can meet excellent insulation requirements while having some serious strength in our build normally Matt I like much of what you say and show this one not a chance.
The info here is sound from an engineering perspective...and it's not cutting corners. U fellas are simply dinosaurs that ALWAYS argue with 'change'. ROFLMFAO
That depends upon how those 3 studs are arranged. A traditional corner does have dead space (third stud in same orientation as all other studs in that wall, but with a 2 inch gap between it and the stud at the very end of the wall). A California corner also only uses 3 studs, but doesn't create any dead space, so it can be insulated. For that corner, the 3rd stud is rotated 90 degrees and placed touching the last stud in that wall segment and flush with the interior side of the wall. Rather surprising what a simple rotation will do.
Daddy Sheldon the best way to build a corner using three studs would be a double stud with a flat stud incorporated. gives your all of the corner strengths to support load and you can get insulation in there.
When I use the ladder method, i like to put the ladder blocks with its 3 1/2 facing toward the wall this way insulation can be applied to the back of it toward the outside
Stupid. Hanging a header with fasteners and a bracket. A traditional Jack is so much stronger. I’ll take the tiny reduction in R-Value to build properly
Great explanation of Advanced Framing techniques. Wish we could use more here in southern Louisiana. Unfortunately we are required to meet some pretty stringent wind codes (not Miami Dade, but close) that prevents using some of these techniques. I have instituted some ladder framing and we are using foam instead of plywood between the 2x material for the headers. Keep up the good fight and thanks for your videos.
The look, sound, and feel of an advanced frame building will never be that of a conventionally framed one. I appreciate the ingenuity and the resourcefulness, but I will continue to build traditionally.
It wobbles because your studs is so small not that there are too few of them. I'm just building summer villa that has 2x6,8 inch (48x173 mm) studs on 24" on center doesn't wobble at all.
I had a lot of movement on the interior wall studs of a house I'm building. Almost all walls were 2x4 on 16. Fire blocking fixed my issues. My exterior 2x6 walls are solid as a rock.
Jimbo Crambel it doesn't have less structure, it has engineered structure. it is the same as old car bodies vs new car bodies: old cars have thicker grade steel, but perform much worse in crash tests, because the steel structure isn't engineered to distribute energy in the event of a crash, but newer cars have crumple-zones engineered in, making crash performance and human survivability much increased. this is the exact same as a advanced framed home. the structure is placed where it is needed, and removed where it is not. If your walls are able to be shaken by opening and closing doors, they have not been appropriately engineered (either by the designer/engineer or the builder themselves. advanced framing can help remedy issues like you are experiencing.
We live in a National pre-fab, circa 1958, that is as structurally sound as the day it went up. The biggest drawback I have encountered is the 2" interior walls and the weird floor to ceiling sliding closet doors. It is about to receive its third roof, but has otherwise been strong and tight for the 36 years we have lived in it. Not bad for a home that probably sold for about $10K when new and has a current assessed value of $115K. And southern Indiana gets its share of tornados. The impending roof replacement was brought on be recent wind storms.
I make 7 figures a year blessings houses. Even houses that fail inspection they will just call me and I will bless them. Then the inspector will pass it. Don't tell anyone, but I just use tap water!!! They can never tell... Soo.
Matt you direct us to the Gable end wall with a 2X header but show us a spot where pre-manufactured trusses are bearing over the 2x header. I can only hope there is an engineered girder gable truss and the perpendicular trusses are in hangars (Not shown). Insulation works both ways, heat rises, and you went 2x4 exterior on the second floor, which negates every 2x6 exterior wall on the first floor (except on paper or in T-24 calcs).
Structure more important than r value every home I have built in last ten years is to tight by local code and we still have to put fresh air back into home u can get a house to tight
I was raised in traditional framing & firmly stand by it, however, we never used so many studs on windows or doors, as in this video. King & cripple are all that's needed
Insulation helps keep houses cool and warm why would you not go at least 2x8 exteriors get a full r40. The header looks like an interior door frame. Good luck closing a slider. And having the first and last stud touch like an L is proper just add a stud on its side to screw the drywall to. Can you guys get a Canadian building code book and use it your houses will last a lot longer.
What are your thoughts on framing a wall on a 2x6 sill and top plate but use 2x4's on 2' centers that are staggered every foot between the interior and exterior? The inside and outside walls are still on 2' centers but you break the thermal conduction of a solid 2x6 stud. I've seen that done in northern climates.
I'd never recommend using 2x4s with spacing exceeding 16" that is intended to have sheetrock installed to the studs. Typically any spacing over 16" should call for 5/8" drywall, adding a fair amount of ridgidness between the longer spans
All those hangers gave me a headache. I'd rather stick to traditional framing. 2x6 on 16 center exterior walls with OSB sheathing. 2x10 headers with header blocks depending on the window. On your corner make a U and on the partitions make a L and there you go, easy to insulate. All that "advance framing" looks like it take too much time. No one has time for that. Especially if you're trying to frame 30 houses a year!
It's like with the trend of painting the walls and ceilings the same builder beige color in a new house. The buyers feel they're getting something new and better than the white ceilings they grew up with, but in fact, it's just cheaper and quicker for the painter to spray the whole thing one color. Win-win for the builder.
yes, pex is almost always used in new production homes its easy to run, reliable and where profits and budgets need to be met its great, In any custom home I would spec copper, its got better flow, no taste issues (which I have seen) and all around better accept its hugely more expensive. But can we agree that cpvc is garbage, its ugly, messy, and shatters after only a few years. Plus its not easier to run than copper.
i love how easy the plans are in bigwoodworkingplans.blogspot.com/ to understand and the step-by-step videos they have. Makes getting material really easy. .
This is presentation is a version of optimum value engineered framing, a method that is much more detailed in practice, and open to variations in application due to local codes, seismic measures, etc. Every house can benefit to a some extent or another from a well planned adoption of specific techniques of OVE, but it is definitely not a one size fits all situation.
what a joke if i built like this in Montana i'd get laughed at how about just not framing cold corners or just flushing your headers to the outside to give space to insulate
There is a point of "diminishing returns". Does that little bit more of insulation really provide a bigger benefit? Do not want to gamble on my home, it is too big an investment. I'll stick to what I know works. You do it on your house, and after 30 years, do another video.
Bob Piff nothing wrong with 24” centers the compression strength of a 2x6 is tremendous. Just think of it this way your garage door is 16 ft that’s 16 ft on center .
The advanced framing techniques is what i call cutting corners in structural integrity. There is ways to achieve what hes trying to sell here and still have a well built home.
+Allan Branch quite a bit. Your energy rater can do that test on a set of plans and give you hard $$$'s annually in savings. It's on the order of 5-15% more efficient which is a lot over the years / decades
Matt Risinger Whoah, test on a set of plans? Prac app and numbers on paper are very different. Especially when considering that white pine is closer to and r1.4 per sq in and not r1. It's almost like gaining 40% if you put the numbers in properly. Or just like it.
Building a home out of SPF is a huge mistake anyway, it won't hold nails and in some areas, insurance companies won't insure homes built out of the balsa wood (SPF).
R value is calculated different then most people would think... 1/2 wall R10 and 1/2 wall R20 doesn't add up to total R value of 15, it's only R value of 13.33
that sheathing might work if you can A: afford it and B: if your contractor has access to and will use it.. as for changing the framing of headers and the distance of studs "reguardless of stud size.. aka 2x4 or 2x6" as 99% of codes will still require a 16 inch OC spacing.... just a thought before someone gets in trouble for not building to code... may cost more in lumber.. but its better than having to tear down and rebuild later after inspector looks at the place...
At best R 13!is all that's achieved in South east Texas. Allow the home to breath. Don't live in a yeti cooler. 16" on center for 50 years , much longer, is because it works. Dead corners? Wow. R1-r3 for wood? Wow. And the mind blowing part to me are the headers. Engineers are just that. Good with math. But millions of carpenters over 50 years doing the same things, double header with a plywood core, and it's proven. With all do respect, this video is bad advice. Especially in Texas.
It all depends upon where u live. If your in the desert areas of the southwest/cali then its not a big deal. If your in the Midwest or cold climate Its very important. I wouldn't want 2x4 construction myself and think 2x6 should be minimum code. I built my house with a double wall construction to eliminate any voids and to get an r-30+ in the walls, but I live in Northern MN where you have extended periods of below zero weather.
Matt - another awesome video. Would love to have videos following you through an advanced construction technique house from start to finish! Love the details and the explanations.
Like a fucking wall is going to keep them out. FYI they got underground tunnels! Fucking wall is a waste of taxpayers money. That money should be used on Heath care or something productive..
Corner studs don't have dead air there are 3 more corner studs behind the corner studs. Try hanging anything on a 24" center wall. And having a two story house with smaller headers and less king studs is ridiculous. Also for insulation you can add better insulation on a well built house.
PeteBillings Exactly. The guy in this video is the type of guy that shows up to the job site in a big clean truck, talking on the phone, has new boots on, wearing a hard hat without a scratch on it, then tries to tell a REAL man how to frame a house. All while complaining about how much money he's losing on this job.
This guy is a clown. What a jerk off. I am a framer by trade and as someone else all that lack of material in the window openings and corners especially in the exterior walls sounds like some fuckstick thatbjerks off to books trying reinvent the wheel.
This is a good book. Does provide a step by step introduction to how to build things czcams.com/users/postUgkxhgbP-6hUnXu_QRaoHgLztgsI0YF3HqR0 , also does offer some steps. Includes pictures to give you ideas for layouts and such. If you are looking for a guide, this is not exactly what you want. But if you are trying to familiarize yourself with the way that pole barn building and other out buildings, are made, then this will work just as you need it to. A few things in this book are a barn (of course), detached garage, storage building, and coops.
I love that your closer was to tell people to check with local experts. You dont see that a lot on youtube. Most people like to throw out their opinions and say thats the bottom line. I like that you advised that not all could apply to someone in a different situation.
He said check with engineers (which I am) but you better check the building code first. Many would not allow much of this, period.
Matt beware of my Podcast that is going to analyze 5 of your videos.
Steel reinforced Insulated Concrete Form or ICF walls is what structural engineers consider to be the strongest for building homes. The University of Oklahoma fired lumber at 200mph at different types of walls and only ICF could withstand such a hit. Hence they recommended this for safe rooms in Tornado prone areas. My house is built with it and it looks like a traditional stick frame house from the interior and exterior once you put siding on it. Also has an R50 insulation and very quiet sound rating.
ACitizenOfOurWorld
ICF is the way we should be building all homes. Strong efficient and will last for many generations
Sounds like your bragging.
Your advanced vs traditional framing segment from 2012 was what turned me on to your videos. Thank you for the over year of waiting in anticipation for the next video.
That "advanced house" is built bad. Look at that "header hanger" Its attached with bugle head screws (big no no) and holes are left unattached. There is virtually no load transfer to the king stud. You NEED trimmers in that window, plain and simple. Most new houses are built with 2x6 16 inches oc anyway. The 16 inches provides better anchoring for drywall and siding. "Advanced framing" is more like "cheapo contractor building a crappy house to maximize prophet."
Its a gimmick. See how easily you'll poke through drywalll on 24'' centers vs 16''
Travis B
It's 5/8" drywall. Everything is bulked up. It's mind boggling how much building on 24" centers there is in Texas, where this guy is building. Especially roofing. Amazingly it holds up fairly well because there's no snow load there.
Daddy Sheldon Garbage, right.... better insulation with less structure, the hell with that. I'll take the heating/ac bill over that paper thin piece of garbage house. Single studs at the corners.... no 4x4's or doubled 2x4's??? Plus those garbage 2x4 trusses in the roof are crap for snow load. Trusses are good for span but can't carry shit. I'll go with the "tried and true" WFCM.
Tom Foolery
He's building in Austin Texas. There is no snow load to consider. Many houses, especially older ones have 2x4 roof trusses on 2' centers. 3/8" decking is the minimum for sheathing roofs here in Texas. Most use 1/2" sheathing but it's unbelievable that such substandard construction is acceptable here.
Daddy Sheldon so why this foo lying to us
As a contractor myself I have to say you've gave me some great ideas, keep making these informational videos. Joe
Now I know why he had a black eye in his other video
did he just say no wind load In Texas? hit that meth before the vid?
says there is no room to insulate in the corner as there is sprayfoam oozing out... that corner was insulated. also those header "lintel" hangers look like cheap beer cans cut up and screwed on. the header "lintel" in the tradtional home could have been built up with one 2x12 on the outside and one on the inside wall and an insulated cavity in the center. called a box lintel. I hate it when people try to sell shitty products buy trying to tell everybody that what is being done now isn't sufficient. meanwhile if done correctly you can effectively insulate a home in Winnipeg.
Colin Knockaert The entire time he was saying "can't be insulated" I was thinking about the times I insulated them XD it's not max insulation but it's better then a damn 2x4 header for sure. I like hefty not whimpy!
Very well said.
The story of The Three Little Pigs comes to mind.
Lmao for real 😂😂😂
It was reminding of a story ive read as a kid but it wouldnt come to mind
People who live inside the union, never heard about that story.
Coming from the country where we build with cinderblocks, I could say the same about all timber framing ;)
it's all relative.
I'm no professional builder but aren't those load bearing walls? I'd take beefy framing over lack of space to insulate anyday.
ubvids they’ve got “ load bearing ribbon” over tradition.
ubvids
It’s crap framing. However if don’t properly by lining the wall frame with the 2nd floor joists then the joists with the rafters you can get away with it. It’s just shit work
You must be new or something...Risinger is fkn obsessed with insulation..if it was up to him the entire home would just be made of insulation
I am a professional. Those are load bearing walls and I say why cut down extra trees and burn extra natural gas when engineers and decades of building experience say the house holds up perfectly well without all that wasted wood. In my experience “over-engineered” generally means “un-engineered.” Advanced framing was developed by engineers, has been around for decades and is not considered a novel building technique.
Up here in the great white north we have been using rigid foam sheathing for years. Also a 3 stud inside corner works great for both insulation and backing. We call it an "L" corner
Each of the areas you were showing that didn't have insulation were insulated. Also when we build a corner or partition we insulate during framing process. We also insulate the headers during construction. South Dakota has both warm and cold seasons so very important. Advance framing sounds more like areas where codes are a lot more lax.
One crew I worked on insulated during the framing process, especially in between the joists that are up tight against the rim where the insulator wouldn't be able to reach it from the bottom, but honestly its a garbage way to do it. What happens when it rains before they get the roof/exterior weatherproofing on? All that fiberglass insulation gets soaked and balls up, making it useless. If you're spray foaming its a different story I guess, but I doubt many framing crews keep foam guns on hand.
Here we've been building with 2x6 exterior walls for years now but we're starting to go back to 2x4 exterior walls and completely doing exterior insulation, walls and roof. You get a more complete seal using a galvanized Z bar and spray foam insulation outside, almost as if youre covering the house with a blanket.
All about maximizing square footage and at the same time water proofing your home with the spray foam insulation. Another that I really like about the exterior insulation is the inside of your framing is completely open and clean for all your wiring, plumbing and hvac.
"how to build a house that's gonna last a couple of generations"
He says that like it's a good thing. Thats only 50 years.
In the UK i'm regularly working on stuff that's 120 years old and still going strong.
its stone
@@gentbar7296 He provided no info about the materials and you auto assume it's stone?
I don’t think I’ve ever read so many close minded comments in my life. Doesn’t matter what you think if you’re not a engineer and you don’t know what you’re talking about. Just because it’s been done one way for 100 years doesn’t mean there’s not room for change or improvement. Grow up people!!!
A builder even more old than I am told me years ago to not use any building method unless it has been used for a hundred years, good advice. It takes thirty years sometimes for the junk to fail. Wait for the OSB floor truss blowup. It is already in the mail.
Randy, I have been reading your comments, and I couldn't agree More! My Dad was a Builder all his life. I would certainly hire you to build me a cinder block and brick house, I have wanted one forever, for the structural integrity, but especially for heating and cooling costs! I wish more American consumers were like you, if Americans would stop purchasing any medicines that have not been on the market for at least 30 yrs, we could take down "Big Pharma" along with Drastically lower medicine Co$ts for us all. (including meds for your pet's fleas, I don't give my dogs 'insecticides' to be ingested as "medicine") Commercials for medicine are illegal in all but 2 Nations on Earth. They didn't start medicine commercials until the 1990's here, they were illegal. I guarantee you any commercial about a new med, is a giant money maker, and the patent will run out in 10 yrs, unless they find another "use" for it, These Drug companies are robbing all of us, and we still can't legally even purchase our meds from Canada. Keep up the good work, Randy. There are still some of us with common sense..I hate to say it, but if it weren't for the lawyers, many More bad Medicines would be in all our stomachs, bc GREED...Corporatism, similar to communism, just a different bad guy...
Richard Thomason trying different things is one thing. Telling me you're taking out my solid header and cripple studs so you can put insulation in there is a joke. Insulation won't hold up your house. I've been around this stuff all of my life. I've seen and learned a lot. And one thing I've learned is most new "techniques" are cost driven not quality driven. I'd rather build a house that i have full faith in that might cost 100 a month to heat or cool than build something that can save you 10 bucks a month on energy usage but can't hold itself up when you turn on your shop fan.
Randy Ward
Soooo true about the OSB trusses!!!! I always challenge anyone who thinks there any good.
Do you use diagonal boards for sheathing, decking, and subflooring?
The comments on this thread are all well thought out and relevant, learned a few things. Though how would you build the best bang for your buck insulated home is the question we need to be answering. Current building techniques in the US industry as a whole are lacking.
I've watched three of these videos now and what I'm hearing is "Less stout, more efficient. They built them too well in the past." Sounds like a modern pickup truck engineer.
A couple of things. AV also requires single top plates and the floor joists, exterior studs, and roof trusses should be aligned if possible. The alignment allows transmission of the load straight down to the foundation.
How about the strength of the advanced frame house in a tornado.
How about the strength of any stick frame house in a tornado.
If built right the homeowner can survive any but the worst tornado, I have been building in Texas a long time and did my best to make sure the homes I built could withstand high winds.
If you are actually interested Minnesota gets an average on 36 tornadoes per year. Our last deadly tornado was in 2011. Basically every year there is a large property damage tornado somewhere in the state.
I don't think there is any sort of construction short of post and beam that will hold up to that. We build like this in the Northeast. 2x6 walls, 24 oc, still use a traditional header though, with styro in between.
If you want tornado and earthquake proof house build a log house.
If you actually look into the science behind insulating, Its not a huge deal that the header and corners are not insulated. The cost behind changing that, outweighs the savings by a mile. on paper, sure. in real life, not a big deal like you are making it out to be.
Sorry but you're uninformed. The DOE has modeled extensive energy savings with AV vs traditional framing and there's little cost difference.
could you please link the articles you're referring to? I'd like to read and educate myself, because I've read the contrary from the findings of a university masters class in envelope engineering. thanks in advance.
Crickets......
Buildingscience.com.
Dr. Joe Lstiburek is arguably the godfather US building codes.
I have been a builder for fifty four years and I went to engineering school for three years. I have seen so many "new ideas" come and fail in my building career.
This house is evidently in Austin Texas, where I am typing this comment; it is commie central for Texas. Austin's entire focus is on new edge, "energy saving" construction.
Look at the corners in the "advanced" framing. The corners of a home are the weakest point in a home; usually only three 2x4 studs and a few nails in the top plates are all that is holding the corner together, plus the OSB sheathing, nailed to the studs. That is not much holding power for high winds. But the "advanced" framing is counting on a single corner 2x6 with one 1 1/2" edge for the weakest side. That is asking a lot from a 2x6.
Plus in Texas the most important item in insulation is the ceiling, joists plane. The heat comes in through the ceiling from the attic (if there is one). Concentrate on the ceiling plane with as few penetrations as possible and of course good insulation above.
If you want good insulation in a wall, build the wall out of cinder block and brick, or better yet two cinder block and one brick walls for you outer walls.
The tree huggers sit in their offices in Austin and their actual building experience is almost nil. They rely on theory, but mostly ideology.
Every state inflicted "new idea" should be weighed against the cost benefit to the home owner; not some "energy saving" theory. Ask the home owner if they want to "save energy" at the cost of losing the safety a well built home brings.
Homes out West have been using this method for decades. It's nothing new
Randy Ward this isn't new. most of these concepts have been implemented in Canada for decades, simply because the energy loads homes experience are much greater, and they perform much better than traditionally framed houses both in structural rigidity and energy performance. If we are to continue building wood structured homes, there has to be done changes before we start seeing our forests and tree farms not able to meet demand. The structure of homes has not seen any major developments in over a hundreds years, that's a problem, because our world has changed. It has nothing to do with "communism", and everything to do with making our homes in step with modern needs and requirements. I wouldn't want to try and use a computer from the 1950's, I don't really want a house that performs like one either.
Good for Canada.
I have seen a lot of California framing and I have never seen such a thing. If they do frame as in the article it is mandated by the State.
The best way to treehug is to build a house that lasts. Insulation filled hollow brick walls could last for generations and are even good enought for German treehugging officials.
While some of the ideas presented here might be workable in certain parts of the country, I don't see how they would work in areas with harsh climates, or heavy snow loading.
And I just can't see how a header bracket that is relying entirely on the shear strength of the fasteners is at all safe.
That's why he keeps saying "talk to your local engineer" ...
I've remodeled countless buildings and one thing is for sure. When you open up the walls and find the real deal 2x4's. The ones that make modern 2x4's look like cute little babies. You know you have a beast built my craftsmen on your hands
24" centers? Damn. Would be a nightmare to install cabinets with that framing.
You'ld have to install backing.
Curtis Poss this guy is an idiot!
Why doesn’t he mention size of Sheetrock? I’ve seen 1/2 in on 24 o.c. If you barely lean on it or fart on it your going right through the wall!😂😆🤣
I’ve done traditional and am certified in framing and masonry
That’s what separate the low cost guys of the streets from the educated craftsman!
@@frankieespinosa5364 IDK if he did on this vid or another, but he says that with 24"oc, he goes 5/8 sheet in and out. So there goes any savings on stud material....
He also says in another video that ZipR that thick is NOT a structural sheeting, so wall diag bracing or other wall stiffening needs done with the thick, high R zip r.
24 centres are OK on internals, but you really need at least 1 row of noggins. (Didn't see them here) . And yes more to hang cabinets.
This should have been more accurately labeled "how to get more insulation value in your home". The title is deceptive.
Not sold on header hangers. They'd make nailing casing a nightmare and there is no positive load bearing in the header system. Not to mention bulging the drywall at every door and window opening. I'd also prefer 19.2" OC walls to 24" for purposes of drywall and wall sheathing rigidity.
MJorgy5 As he stated. There aren't earthquake or snow loads to account for.
MJorgy5 but they are engineered. They do great if an opening is too small the we remove the trimmer and good as gold. The hangers work but i don't prefer.
All this is is an advertisement for some building products and builders.
I would like to know how the sheeting board is attached. If it's inside the osb is not shear if it's on the outside it's not nailed properly
what insulation do you use for 19.2 oc?
I mean you could just nail around the hangers, but I could see myself easily going along and forget rhe plate, end up swearing at them when I'd feel the backpush of a nailer on metal only to see a deformed nail that doesnt want to come out or go in.
There are so many good comments on this vid and most of the negative ones aren't flames. It's people just giving their hard earned experience. Everything can't be about insulation and it seems that some people are willing to sacrifice some structural integrity for a tick higher R value. That's insane to me. Where I live we have to deal with tornadoes, floods, and the occasional shake from the New Madrid fault. I don't mind if my home is a little overbuilt.
Dear editor: can we dispense with the strange angles and random focus on his hands while he's talking? It's not a Kubrick film and it distracts from the information being given.
Perfect video Matt, this was the highlight of my Friday, had some rough client issues today, but like a wise person once said, "This too shall pass".
+Johnintoit I know that feeling buddy. Have a great weekend. Thanks for your support
I'm a traditional framer...and all your insulation ain't gonna do shit ....if shit starts sagging....ive done flitch plates as well...very strong...but when an inspector comes on the job and says wow...well done...its a great feeling.......when an inspector comes to a job and you have to explain your method cuz he hasn't seen them in the field yet.....lmao.....he is just gonna walk around and check everything.....this guy is the type of guy you see at home shows trying to sell you the latest bullshit ......
Watching this while sitting in my traditionally framed house in south western Ontario made me feel cold.
Matt, I appreciate the show. I'm a little confused by the ZIP sheathing with insulation. I can see the benefit in the overall insulation of the house, but what about the strength of the house in regards to racking? Seems like the insulation would lower the strength as it would introduce a point of flexibility. Especially in the high R value versions. It almost seems as though it should be installed in reverse with the insulation on the outside. Am I nuts? What am I missing?
I thought the exact same thing. No shear value. Nails can bend for like an inch with that system....
Worked in R & C construction for 40 plus years as Brick Mason. Done just about every trade for myself. I agree w you. The OSB should be tight to the studs, then the insulation, otherwise the OSB does not give the required lateral strength
It’s kind of like- laying 3.5” brick veneer too far from the studs- ex- 1”-2” then the wall becomes more unstable & wall ties have to be farther from the house to anchor to the brick.
Framing 24" O.C will require 5/8" rock.
This video needs to be called Traditional vs hack framing. Brought to you by Simpson, werhouser, and the people that really like to glue shit together.
Tom Foolery his examples for issues in traditional framing are considered rookie mistakes. Also it may have been a trick of the camera but it didn't look like the cripples made contact with the headers, making them unless. Lastly many builders use ladder blocking for interior to exterior connections, however the only reason you're getting cold pockets in your corners is because you are assembling them wrong, intentionally, for the sake of the video. want more R value? INCREASE the THICKNESS of the WALL. Also a closed cavity gap between the siding and the wall also contributes to R value.
Joseph Raridan we use " California corners". Basically a 2x6 flat against end wall stud. Insulation goes behind
yep bubba u got it as always an idiot to show ya how to really do your job haha
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R-value is constantly mentioned in many videos along with air sealing but no mention of spray foam. Spray foam accomplishes both and goes around plumbing and wiring and weird cavities, etc.
I do framing and that 'advance framing' is ish... 16 oc is better than that 24oc. Yes your saving wood with 24oc but not rigid enough or as strong with 16oc walls. And those hangers?? Like really... Tf out of here.
I totally agree. There needs to be a balance between saving space and sturdiness and 24oc is an extreme, while the other house is on the exact opposite end of the spectrum. Finding a mix where safety and strength are combined with insulation maximization seems not to exist in this video.
Well it was done to maximize R value, not save lumber or money. Bet money that it was engineered and inspected.
24inch is strong enough. and instead of hangers cut out a slot in the king stud
Love my house built 40 years ago with its 16 inch on center framing. Strong af.
*crawling through insulation and rubble that used to be my house....
So glad I saved $ 30 a year on heating and cooling.
- - HA!
Great tips and info once again Mr. Risinger. I'm new to construction and you have taught me soo much about doing things the right way. Thanks man, keep it coming please sir
+Scott Hixson thanks Scott. Very welcome!
Insulated concrete forms is a far superior way to build.
Here in Canada where we get -40 in the winter we frame traditionally but our exterior walls have to meet a "true" r22 value. Exterior Styrofoam, 2x6 walls triple pane argon gas windows and r60 in the attic are all very common. You can get good r value without using all those weird hangers around windows
+MGarroz agreed. Just showing one method here
The only advance on this house is what you pay this guy to leave.
If you focus just on insulation HELL just build the house out of foam. Framing is structural having 2x6 @ 24oc means any warpage which there always is. One 2x6 stud warped put a 4' bow in the wall. I want my house to last a little more then 10 years. full size headers, king studs, trimmers and cripples on 16" centers In all my houses. Nails only hold structural members (trimmers and headers etc.) in place and are NEVER used in sear force like the hardware being used here. Advancement framing has to be better structural not just better insulated. A warm house that the doors and windows don't work very well doesn't matter much. This type of building is how they build modular and mobile homes not the 700k home I build here in So. Cal.
I wonder how insulated Zip panels affect shear strength vs. regular Zip panels.
The NAHB published a handbook with many of these techniques and more, including plywood box headers in exterior walls. They suggested the plywood could skimmed & tapped to eliminate the drywall over windows & doors. This was back in the 70's! Might be some new ideas here but allot have been around for a long time.
Terrible idea. 24 inch on center was tried back in the 1970s to cut costs. Bad idea. Your old enough to remember why. Wavy walls everywhere. Remember lumber has a a a crown to it. That's why everyone went back to 16" oc.
spartaeus: ehm, every house in Norway is built 60 cm (24") on center. It works great. We used 2x4 lumber for exterior walls 30 years ago, now we use 2x8. Btw, a 2x8 here is 48x198 mm, which is a bit bigger than the American 2x8, which is really 1.5"x7.25", or 38x184 mm.
Well not everyone. In eastern Pennsylvania, approx 10 yrs ago I worked for a home builder doing 80ish homes a year. Exterior walls were always 2x6's 24" oc, except garages which were 2x4 but still 24" oc.
Like i always say there is more then one way to skin a cat who cares how the house is built as long as it dont fallon me in the middle of the night im happy i know guy who will use one nail per stud on the im side part of the stud the humdred or so nails on used to sheet the extirror of the was holds it all together mind you that not my method but
i've been framing here in Canada for 30yrs and never once framed a house with 2x4,, always 2x6 16" O.C. and sometimes 12" O.C... I'm from the east coast and now live in central ontario,, and the "National building Codes" are different given the region... i.e. 'snowloads' with dimension lumber for different regions, plus in carpenter trade school, we learned how to 'stick frame a roof' vs truss systems.. and only stick framed a roof once.. all the others were truss systems!
What did you say??
I've seen houses build over a hundred years ago withstand hurricane after hurricane with a single metal strap anywhere and new home with all the 'new technology' blow away in a small hurricane. Seems to me we should be studying there methods and why they work.
Rather have strength over insulation, just one mans opinion.
2x6
Using the word like "Advance Framing" is a kin to calling lunatic anarchist liberals, "Progressive". Thank you for making it a point for me to take a stud finder on my next home purchase to avoid the 24" cheap house.
1:05 Those closed corners are not "traditional framing". They are flat wrong. You never do a corner like that unless certain circumstances force you to. In that case, the framer would pre-insulate while building. The correct way is with a 3-stud "L" set up which give full structural connection AND leaves access for insulating. Also the interior/exterior intersection. No, that's not a dead air space. That was done correctly, by making an "L" which is open on one side so you can tuck insulation in behind it , just like you would with a "ladder" (which is actually less efficient for drywalling). As for the "advanced" house... there's very little "advanced" about it. Just a couple different methods and materials that could be used anywhere.
Glad you're talking about this. Important topic, getting more insulation in the walls and speeding up cycle time while using fewer materials. Still AF is frustrating. Wobbly walls, for one. Metal clips for another. - Ladder blocking is gold medal IMO compared to channel transitions. I run ladder blocking flat to the interior face of the stud in remodeling applications so it can be fully insulated from behind. This seems like it should be OK in new construction too.
+MyFixitUpLife show good comments Mark. We need to do a Framing video together! Best, Matt
Awesome Matt. I'm in.
I was here to educate myself, next thing I know I am lol'g to all the comments putting this guy down.
lol for real
Stinky Puppie don't do this.he is Definitely not giving good advice.
Same here
Yeah I kinda did the same thing. Hoped to learn something new, found some hack BS
He is just wrong about some of this and his only interest is in R-numbers. I worry more about the EF-numbers/ Look up "Enhanced Fujita".
so advanced framing is good for builders and demo teams, traditional is good for the homeowner. got it. thanks dude!
It's so sad were building homes these days that won't last 20 years before they start falling down! I see homes all the time built a lot like part two of this video just 5 years ago and they are JUNK already.....
Makes for great repairs. I am makimg $$$$ on these new roofs and siding just blowing away.
that's why we build with solid blocks and concrete here in western europe.
This will last for generations to come.
Yeah, I was painting new home interiors a few years back, they were slapped together at top speed, problems everywhere, from excavation/ foundation settling - shifting, on up.this was during a construction boom when the ' gold rush' mentality sets in.as soon as the boom peaks & declnes, all the shady Reuben - dubens are the first to run out of work ( no offense to anyone named Reuben, thats a cool name)
Well done with your desire to experiment and learn - keep it up and ignore the haters /armchair specialists - change is vital to progress. Greetings from Ireland.
Change is not good in itself and is not progress in itself. He can "experiment" on his house, or yours, but as a structural engineer (yes) I can say this "change" is not new, is not advanced, is not good, and will not meet many building codes. You may return to your manual drafting table now.
I'll spend the extra couple bucks on my heating bill thank you very much. This seems cheap and 24" spacing sounds terrible. I already get annoyed with stud spacing whenever I need to instal a shelf, wall mounted TV or any of my SO's Ikea crap.
Sick home. Houses need to "breathe". When you build houses tight it cost a lot of money to condition that space it goes from a simple Hvac system into multiple units to not only condition the air but to treat the air due to making such a tight envelope. And for sure this guys way of doing things turns a 250,000 dollar build into a million dollar build.
Tapers are gonna retire at that house fixing nail pops and cracked drywall from lack of framing
2x6 walls are also great for plumbing drains. It allows for the sill to remain in tack when going through it with 4” lines.
Just one more benefit!
Ya I think I'd just remember to shut a couple lights off and maybe turn a heater down every now and again rather than have 24" exterior studs for the sole purpose of insulation .Matt even said in the comments that 15% is max energy savings... that is a tiny benefit for living a lifetime of trying to find studs to mount literally anything not to mention just hoping someone doesnt lean back on your wall to hard in the middle. Sad!
15 percent is significant. What wasn't mentioned is improved comfort for the occupants.
I would rather take the bridge that was built for a 40,000 lb truck to drive across and take my 5000lb truck across it every day vs trying to have an engineer redesign structural parts to make the road less bumpy at the cost of integrity... and by that I am talking about 24" exterior studs and those wimp headers. It's not an argument, that is literally what they are doing. Sacrificing structural integrity for some fringe benefit in heat savings. Btw 15 percent being significant is incredibly subjective and also not an argument.
NexusCapital why are they lyinh tho. i tbought we wete trying to make this a better place? and hes talking like yea get this one. smh wtf when does it end poor homeowners. not really one mind cant exsist wirhout the other
If you're really that paranoid about hanging a picture on the wall, just cover the studs with OSB, then you can hang a picture anywhere you want.
That's why you use 2 x 6 framing, which structurally is more than adequate. I have built for 40 years as well as spent nine years as a certified building inspector, and I wish we could have had advanced framing back in the day. Old habits and attitudes die slow. I think AF is great.
I was a professional General Contractor for almost forty years and born and raised in the business am a fourth generation carpenter that went through many years of apprenticeship under two of the best but meanest old Germans in the country this house wouldn't ever meet my stringent requirements ever. We can meet excellent insulation requirements while having some serious strength in our build normally Matt I like much of what you say and show this one not a chance.
idk about in the states but up here canada we will just put insulation in that so called deadspace before we put the walls up
Yep that’s how we do it also. This guy is just finding excuses to to use the advanced framing so he can sell you more insulation.
The info here is sound from an engineering perspective...and it's not cutting corners. U fellas are simply dinosaurs that ALWAYS argue with 'change'. ROFLMFAO
Sorry bud, but 3 stud corners have no dead space in them
That depends upon how those 3 studs are arranged. A traditional corner does have dead space (third stud in same orientation as all other studs in that wall, but with a 2 inch gap between it and the stud at the very end of the wall). A California corner also only uses 3 studs, but doesn't create any dead space, so it can be insulated. For that corner, the 3rd stud is rotated 90 degrees and placed touching the last stud in that wall segment and flush with the interior side of the wall. Rather surprising what a simple rotation will do.
Daddy Sheldon the best way to build a corner using three studs would be a double stud with a flat stud incorporated. gives your all of the corner strengths to support load and you can get insulation in there.
California can keep their building methods, Texas is not communist, yet.
Randy Ward what do you mean he said in the video this house was built in Texas..
Actually the corners I build have four studs, as any framer would know. I am not a fan of dead air in structural components.
When I use the ladder method, i like to put the ladder blocks with its 3 1/2 facing toward the wall this way insulation can be applied to the back of it toward the outside
i love those simpson hangers around the windows, makes hanging window treatments fun.
5f5
I hate those things in every way
Stupid. Hanging a header with fasteners and a bracket. A traditional Jack is so much stronger. I’ll take the tiny reduction in R-Value to build properly
Great explanation of Advanced Framing techniques. Wish we could use more here in southern Louisiana. Unfortunately we are required to meet some pretty stringent wind codes (not Miami Dade, but close) that prevents using some of these techniques. I have instituted some ladder framing and we are using foam instead of plywood between the 2x material for the headers. Keep up the good fight and thanks for your videos.
The look, sound, and feel of an advanced frame building will never be that of a conventionally framed one. I appreciate the ingenuity and the resourcefulness, but I will continue to build traditionally.
This is a wonderful explanation of the differences, thank you! :)
My wall wobbles every time I close my door as it is. Now you want me to have a wall with even less structure in it?!
It wobbles because your studs is so small not that there are too few of them.
I'm just building summer villa that has 2x6,8 inch (48x173 mm) studs on 24" on center doesn't wobble at all.
I had a lot of movement on the interior wall studs of a house I'm building. Almost all walls were 2x4 on 16. Fire blocking fixed my issues. My exterior 2x6 walls are solid as a rock.
2x4 exterior walls have some flex. 2x6 do not.
Jimbo Crambel it doesn't have less structure, it has engineered structure. it is the same as old car bodies vs new car bodies: old cars have thicker grade steel, but perform much worse in crash tests, because the steel structure isn't engineered to distribute energy in the event of a crash, but newer cars have crumple-zones engineered in, making crash performance and human survivability much increased.
this is the exact same as a advanced framed home. the structure is placed where it is needed, and removed where it is not. If your walls are able to be shaken by opening and closing doors, they have not been appropriately engineered (either by the designer/engineer or the builder themselves. advanced framing can help remedy issues like you are experiencing.
I don't want a girl
We live in a National pre-fab, circa 1958, that is as structurally sound as the day it went up. The biggest drawback I have encountered is the 2" interior walls and the weird floor to ceiling sliding closet doors. It is about to receive its third roof, but has otherwise been strong and tight for the 36 years we have lived in it. Not bad for a home that probably sold for about $10K when new and has a current assessed value of $115K. And southern Indiana gets its share of tornados. The impending roof replacement was brought on be recent wind storms.
24" centers? Don't worry, they "blessed" this house.
I make 7 figures a year blessings houses. Even houses that fail inspection they will just call me and I will bless them. Then the inspector will pass it.
Don't tell anyone, but I just use tap water!!! They can never tell... Soo.
They'll need blessings. Also thoughts and prayers.
Might wanna throw in some meditation as well.
My astrologer says it’s fine
Matt you direct us to the Gable end wall with a 2X header but show us a spot where pre-manufactured trusses are bearing over the 2x header. I can only hope there is an engineered girder gable truss and the perpendicular trusses are in hangars (Not shown). Insulation works both ways, heat rises, and you went 2x4 exterior on the second floor, which negates every 2x6 exterior wall on the first floor (except on paper or in T-24 calcs).
Structure more important than r value every home I have built in last ten years is to tight by local code and we still have to put fresh air back into home u can get a house to tight
I was raised in traditional framing & firmly stand by it, however, we never used so many studs on windows or doors, as in this video. King & cripple are all that's needed
Insulation helps keep houses cool and warm why would you not go at least 2x8 exteriors get a full r40. The header looks like an interior door frame. Good luck closing a slider. And having the first and last stud touch like an L is proper just add a stud on its side to screw the drywall to. Can you guys get a Canadian building code book and use it your houses will last a lot longer.
The zip sheathing saves time(1 install)but for myself I would apply the sheathing then the insulation(2 installs)
What are your thoughts on framing a wall on a 2x6 sill and top plate but use 2x4's on 2' centers that are staggered every foot between the interior and exterior? The inside and outside walls are still on 2' centers but you break the thermal conduction of a solid 2x6 stud. I've seen that done in northern climates.
Great for soundproofing.
I'd never recommend using 2x4s with spacing exceeding 16" that is intended to have sheetrock installed to the studs. Typically any spacing over 16" should call for 5/8" drywall, adding a fair amount of ridgidness between the longer spans
All those hangers gave me a headache. I'd rather stick to traditional framing. 2x6 on 16 center exterior walls with OSB sheathing. 2x10 headers with header blocks depending on the window. On your corner make a U and on the partitions make a L and there you go, easy to insulate. All that "advance framing" looks like it take too much time. No one has time for that. Especially if you're trying to frame 30 houses a year!
So "advanced framing" is apparently secret code for "cheaply built".
It's like with the trend of painting the walls and ceilings the same builder beige color in a new house. The buyers feel they're getting something new and better than the white ceilings they grew up with, but in fact, it's just cheaper and quicker for the painter to spray the whole thing one color. Win-win for the builder.
"Traditional framed" = stick built - "Advanced framed" = shit built
ya just like new pex over copper, and romex over mc.
pex and copper have their places depending on region
yes, pex is almost always used in new production homes its easy to run, reliable and where profits and budgets need to be met its great, In any custom home I would spec copper, its got better flow, no taste issues (which I have seen) and all around better accept its hugely more expensive.
But can we agree that cpvc is garbage, its ugly, messy, and shatters after only a few years. Plus its not easier to run than copper.
Good insulation keeps the cooling in also . Very informative video
Styrofoam coolers are very well insulated but I don't want to live in one.
I like that one lol
i love how easy the plans are in bigwoodworkingplans.blogspot.com/ to understand and the step-by-step videos they have. Makes getting material really easy. .
This is presentation is a version of optimum value engineered framing, a method that is much more detailed in practice, and open to variations in application due to local codes, seismic measures, etc. Every house can benefit to a some extent or another from a well planned adoption of specific techniques of OVE, but it is definitely not a one size fits all situation.
what a joke if i built like this in Montana i'd get laughed at how about just not framing cold corners or just flushing your headers to the outside to give space to insulate
There is a point of "diminishing returns". Does that little bit more of insulation really provide a bigger benefit? Do not want to gamble on my home, it is too big an investment. I'll stick to what I know works. You do it on your house, and after 30 years, do another video.
24" centers on load bearing walls are illegal here.
Really? It is the industry standard in Norway, and we have metres of snow in the winter.
He is using 2x6, not 2x4.
Doesn't matter still here... 16 oc is code where I work
Bob Piff nothing wrong with 24” centers the compression strength of a 2x6 is tremendous. Just think of it this way your garage door is 16 ft that’s 16 ft on center .
In many areas you will need a licensed engineer to approve the 24" o.c. allowing you to bypass the code.
It is amazing how much building codes vary... Here in Maine... codes would come in for a framing inspection... and just condemn it right then....
2019 year and still using sliding windows 2glass window
The advanced framing techniques is what i call cutting corners in structural integrity. There is ways to achieve what hes trying to sell here and still have a well built home.
How much do these techniques actually help energy efficiency? I wish someone would A/B test identical houses next to each other.
+Allan Branch quite a bit. Your energy rater can do that test on a set of plans and give you hard $$$'s annually in savings. It's on the order of 5-15% more efficient which is a lot over the years / decades
Matt Risinger Whoah, test on a set of plans? Prac app and numbers on paper are very different. Especially when considering that white pine is closer to and r1.4 per sq in and not r1. It's almost like gaining 40% if you put the numbers in properly. Or just like it.
Building a home out of SPF is a huge mistake anyway, it won't hold nails and in some areas, insurance companies won't insure homes built out of the balsa wood (SPF).
R value is calculated different then most people would think... 1/2 wall R10 and 1/2 wall R20 doesn't add up to total R value of 15, it's only R value of 13.33
SPF means Spruce/Pine/Fir... which is what the vast majority of wood framed buildings are framed with...
that sheathing might work if you can A: afford it and B: if your contractor has access to and will use it.. as for changing the framing of headers and the distance of studs "reguardless of stud size.. aka 2x4 or 2x6" as 99% of codes will still require a 16 inch OC spacing.... just a thought before someone gets in trouble for not building to code... may cost more in lumber.. but its better than having to tear down and rebuild later after inspector looks at the place...
At best R 13!is all that's achieved in South east Texas. Allow the home to breath. Don't live in a yeti cooler. 16" on center for 50 years , much longer, is because it works. Dead corners? Wow. R1-r3 for wood? Wow. And the mind blowing part to me are the headers. Engineers are just that. Good with math. But millions of carpenters over 50 years doing the same things, double header with a plywood core, and it's proven. With all do respect, this video is bad advice. Especially in Texas.
It all depends upon where u live. If your in the desert areas of the southwest/cali then its not a big deal. If your in the Midwest or cold climate Its very important. I wouldn't want 2x4 construction myself and think 2x6 should be minimum code. I built my house with a double wall construction to eliminate any voids and to get an r-30+ in the walls, but I live in Northern MN where you have extended periods of below zero weather.
Jack's....Kings.... studs....sounds like an all male revue in New Orleans
Matt - another awesome video. Would love to have videos following you through an advanced construction technique house from start to finish! Love the details and the explanations.
This is why we're making Mexico build our wall
LOL
Aaron Knaus best comment
Like a fucking wall is going to keep them out. FYI they got underground tunnels! Fucking wall is a waste of taxpayers money. That money should be used on Heath care or something productive..
Aaron Knaus Build the Wall, anyway
Dumb shit....how's that coming along?
Corner studs don't have dead air there are 3 more corner studs behind the corner studs. Try hanging anything on a 24" center wall. And having a two story house with smaller headers and less king studs is ridiculous.
Also for insulation you can add better insulation on a well built house.
"Advanced Framing"? LOL you're a true desk jockey.
PeteBillings Exactly. The guy in this video is the type of guy that shows up to the job site in a big clean truck, talking on the phone, has new boots on, wearing a hard hat without a scratch on it, then tries to tell a REAL man how to frame a house. All while complaining about how much money he's losing on this job.
couldn't have said it better myself. hahaha!
This guy is a clown. What a jerk off. I am a framer by trade and as someone else all that lack of material in the window openings and corners especially in the exterior walls sounds like some fuckstick thatbjerks off to books trying reinvent the wheel.
PeteBillings desk jockey... i like that word. 😂
He's a clown, it's the kind of people that thinks knows everything 🤔