Reloading, Reusing, and Respooling 110 Film Cartridges with 35mm or 16mm Film to Make 110 Film Cheap
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- čas přidán 21. 04. 2020
- The cost of shooting 110 today makes it prohibitive for many users. Unlike 35mm, no easy bulk spooling option exists. This video, however, shows how to make 110 film shooting far more affordable by re-spooling your film yourself.
110 film is the most expensive cassette film available. Per-shot it is more expensive than 35mm or 120. Per square millimeter it more expensive than any standard format except 5X7 and 8X10. A 110 C-41 cassette with 24 frames typically costs (in 2020, in the U.S.) around $14 with development and scanning up to $25. That's around $40 for 24 frames or $1.67 per frame (about a penny per square millimeter on each negative.)
By slicing 35mm film to 16mm and spooling a double length onto your 110 cassettes you can dramatically reduce your film costs. Even if you use film which has the same cost as your 110, the additional frames on each roll with the method shown in this video cut your per-frame cost by about half. If you use bulk film, your per-frame costs will drop to about 25%. If you develop at home, your per-frame costs will be about 10% of what they are today with 110 film.
The method outlined in this videos requires the photographer to pay some attention to the camera. Because we will cover the frame count window in the 110 cartridge the camera has to be used consciously. Also, if you camera requires the 110 sprocket holes, this method will not work for you.
Here is a link to the film slicer that I use in this video:
www.etsy.com/listing/26682990...
I'm not affiliated with the shop. I just like Joe's products.
If you don't want to use a film slicer, 16mm film work in 110 cameras with this method, too, but you will have 16mm film sprocket holes in your images.
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Not gonna lie I love people doing stuff like this but it’s probably a bit further than what I’m capable of. The Pentax auto 110 is literally my favorite cam!
Thank you!
thank you very much for making this. I plan on trying 16mm film, doing a similar process by reusing a cartridge. In the day of 3d printing, I'm stunned that no one has created a reusable cartridge for 110 film. I don't mind the perforations on the 16mm film, because I intentionally want them there for a specific project...but if people don't want to splice 35mm film, you are able to buy 16mm film that's not perforated. I'd advise reaching out to Kodak directly if you want to try that (you'll probably need to buy at least 100 feet of film).
Thank you! I was wondering about the 3D printing, too. I can only imagine that the space required is so small as to make it a hard or impossible design.
@@DavidHancock I found someone who sells the 110 spools. www.needfilmdeveloped.com/the-lab/p/110-spool Do you think it would be possible to use this + 16 mm film without the cartridge? If so, I'd assume that would mean loading and unloading the camera in the dark?
I think I would opt to do this with Ortho 80 and a safe light. Looks like that Ilford stock is fine being shot and developed at 100 iso. I have a Rollei e110 and an A26 I'm going to try it with. I'd go nuts trying to do this procedure in a dark bag, lol. Nice video!
Thank you! That's a fantastic idea I hadn't thought of!
This was great thank you
Thank you!
I actually do the same thing with medium format film! I have the same cutter, but for trimming Vision 65mm film down to the proper size for medium format cameras and discard the backing paper. Well I do keep it around in case.. I will have to try this soon also!
Nice! I have one of these that goes 120 to 127. Had I been thinking, I should have gotten the 120 to 127 & 110 slitter and saved on some money and waste. But hindsight is 20-20.
@@DavidHancock you may beable to modify it, it looks to me like you could unscrew it and change the blade, I havnt tried though.. mine cuts the film down and leaves the perfs on one side. I did think afterwords that maybe I should have gotten the one that cuts perfs off both sides, but cropping exists..
Thank you. Very informative video. I am gonna loose my mind by doing it in the dark 🤣
Thank you!
What we need is someone to make a 3d printable reusable 110 cartrage. Havent seen one in the wild before, i dont have the knowhow or time tyese days to do it myself. Cheers to anyone ho will, is, or have done this.
Concur. I'm not sure if it's possible.
Thanks!
Thank you!
Would dearly love to get a knife like that. Have searched for "right angle single edge razor blade handle", and nothing!
It's an heirloom from my grandfather. I think it was a scraper for taking paint off flat surfaces and tape residue off glass. He worked in glass manufacturing and sales from his teens into middle age but also in mink fur harvesting when he was a kid, so I'm not entirely sure where it came from, but razor blade scrapers might be something to search.
Hi, thanks for the vid.
I have a question. I have a Optima 6000 which need perforated film to work. Can I use a device to split my 35mm into 2 and reload it or 35mm hole is too big for the camera to catch the film?
You CAN, but it won't work. The perfs on 35mm are too close together so the frames will all overlap into a meaningless jumble. Unfortunately for your camera the only option is to buy 110 film.
It's funny how I'm watching this video on the same type of granite top kitchen table. That's a pretty cool "hack" to use 35mm film into 110 format.
I just want to make 110 cheap and easy to use. It's a fine format, for the image aesthetic, but not cheap for the image size.
@@DavidHancock I agree. I tried 110 once but never got the film digitized because of the cost.
Thank you for the video David. I personally find that the extra price charge from labs to handle 110 is worth it, developing, scanning and reloading this type of film have always been too fiddly for me, I rather have someone else take care of it. I would also imagine that the ISO range of films you can use in this are limited since 110 was only designed to be 100 or 400 right?
Thank you and yes, the film ranges are limited basically to 100 and 400. It depends on the specific camera.
The film ranges were specified as high and low, not exact speeds. At one time kodak had as low kodachrome 64, kodacolor II at asa 80 (relabeled 100 in 75), and verichrome pan at asa 80 then 125. The only one that needed accurate exposure was kodachrome, so it is reasonable to expect that low was originally 64. Kodacolor would benefit from the extra exposure, and it did not matter much to verichrome pan. When it first came out Verichrome pan was asa 80, and in the 70s when film speeds were recalculated, it became 125 (no change to the film). ASA 400 color print film was added later, and not all cameras accomodated it. However 400 speed color prints exposed at 100 are perectly ok, you can find people testing color print film at various levels of overexposure, but 110 was intended for 4x6 machine prints and no one would notice. Kodak near the end of production keyed their 400 speed color print film cartridges as low presumably to get better results on fixed exposure cameras. Fukkatsu 110 film produced about 2015 as a revival was iso 400 color and iso 100 black and white, both in cartrdges keyed as high. The black and white film had problems in cameras that interpreted the coding.
My eventual experiment with film loading will be Fujifilm HR Super microfilm, which can be coaxed to produce normal results at ISO 50-64. A 100 foot roll of 16mm unperforated film can be had fresh for $8 on eBay. (Aug 2020)
Thanks so much for the video. I have a crazy amount of 16mm motion pic film and I only shoot still photography, would it be possible for me to load them the same way as normal 110 in the cassettes and have them advance normally ?
Thank you. 16mm will not advance properly because the holes are spaced incorrectly.
Hey this is random but I only shoot motion picture film. :) if you have any stock you want to sell hit me up!!
@@DavidHancock David, this depends on the camera and whether or not it will accept 'notched' cartridges.
very interesting but still I imagine slicing and putting the film inside the cassette *a* *bit* difficult in the dark.
And then, how you developp those films yourself ? Mini spiring film (idk how to say in english: the circle object you put your film on) does exist ?
I am interested in how to get the film out and develop it also. The only 110 plastic development spool available seems pretty weak. Can we tape it onto a used 35mm film and use a 35mm spool? Thx.
It's a bit fiddly, but easier than 127 respooling for certain. For the developing, check eBay for 110 and 16mm reels. There are some steel and Jobo reels up there today. That's what I use.
I don't know that taping to a 35mm piece of film will work. There's an antihalation layer on the backs of film that needs to be removed during processing. There are 110 and 16mm reels for sale on eBay.
Thanks for the video, it is very helpful. Is there a trick to knowing you are out of film, or do you just have to count?
With the 24-exposure 35mm film, use that and when the advance feels noticeably tougher to move, don't force it, that's when the camera is letting you know that you're done.
@@DavidHancock Thanks, that should be simple enough. I wont be using 35mm film, I will be using 16mm unperforated film which is much cheaper, but the principles still apply.
@@geoffreymendelson make sure that your tape on the spool is very well aligned. This process carries a risk of stripping there camera's advance if the tape there's to the cartridge housing as well as the spool and film.
Great idea and will definitely try it but how do you process this at home? I've never seen a Patterson reel for 110 and I do not have steel tanks or reels.
I don't know if Patterson made 110 reels. Checking eBay today there were steel and Jobo reels for 110/16mm.
A good tank is the Yankee Clipper or Yankee Master tank, they have plastic reels that size from 120 to 110.
The yankee clipper II tank is still made, b&h has them new for $20. They are not as nicely finished as the older ones, but they work. Jobo made 110 reels for both the 1500 and 2500 systems, you can find them on eBay (very expensive). Patterson reels can be modified, but if you do it wrong, you end up with an expensive piece of trash (dont ask) There were two soviet tanks, one held 1 roll of 120, or 2 rolls of 35mm or 16mm (110). They are ok. The Soviet Kiev cameras (vega, 30, etc) came with the top half of a 16mm reel. It fits a standard Soviet 35mm tank and reel. DO NOT try to use one.
There are two versions of 3d printed reels for paterson tanks. The later version is the one one to try. You can find it on thingverse. You can message the author about printing them (for a fee) for you, or a jobo 1500 version.
I have some on the way (11/11/20). So far the best ones are the Yankee Master tanks, but they are very expensive on eBay.
Alternatively and perhaps the cheapest method is to use two clothes pegs. Attach one to each end of the film and have the developer/stop/fixer in three jars/beakers et in front of you. In complete darkness dunk the film from one end in the developer and while lowering one hand raise the other so the developer is covering the film. Raise and lower, raise and lower for the length of the developer time. The advantages to this method are no bromide drag and 'Jobo-like' evenness of development. The drawbacks are that it has to be complete darkness so for the fifteen mins you're in the dark switch on a podcast and learn something and #2...if you use PMK based developers there will be more oxidization to the developer but not to the point of adding significant amounts of fog which you just 'print through' anyway. :-)
I will have to try this, but I know on my camera I will have to rig a cheater dohicky as the perf hole reset the shutter when it hit the lever. I should have saved all those 110 and 126 cartridges back from my 1 hour lab days.
Yeah, this will not work if the camera requires 110 perfs.
For the most part that was very useful. However, both my Pentax Auto 110 and Auto 110 Super don't cock the shutter with Lomo cassettes and will keep on winding through the film until it's finished shooting occasionally but not every frame. What I've found is that there's a device inside the camera under the exposure box (the inside lens shroud) in the narrow slit between the box and the lower inside body. That is some kind of actuator and, if you cut a vee in the cassette 'tongue' that lines up with that actuator so that the tongue no longer presses against it, your winder will now stop as it should for each frame and will cock the shutter. I have no idea what that's there for given that it prevents proper use of the camera (at least when using Lomo cassettes). I thought it was a problem with that visible actuator to bottom left of the exposure box; the part that 'sees' the frame counting holes. However it isn't. but modifying each cassette as above allows it to wind on, stop and set the shutter.
Thank you!
I wonder what that is with your camera. I haven't, that I recall, run into that with Lomo 110 cassttes.
@@DavidHancock I was reading through the forums and saw a couple of other people say the same thing although they hadn't identified what was causing the issue. They thought, as I did, that it had something to do with reusing the cassettes with non perforated film. However, it was also happening when I put a new Lomo film in the camera but, when there was no film in the camera, it worked perfectly; winding on just one frame and cocking the shutter at the same time. That said to me that it was something to do with the cassette so I held down that sensor pin that recognizes perforations and nothing changed. Finally, I spotted the little lever or spring inside that thin area under the lens box. With the back open, and no film; it worked fine. With the back open and a film inside (Lomo), it didn't cock the shutter and didn't stop winding. When I lifted the right hand side of the cassette a little, it worked again. So I marked the area where the spring/lever is and cut a notch out of the cassette tongue with a box cutter. When I inserted the film (with the door open) it worked fine and continued to do so with the back shut. I haven't shot a new film yet but as it's quite warm here, I was having trouble loading film with no backing paper as the humidity was making the film stick and it wasn't winding on properly. I've loaded another film with backing paper and intend to shoot it tomorrow. This doesn't seem to be just my cameras which were made at least 4 years apart; it's something other people have noticed. I'm wondering what the purpose of that lever is.
Just recently got a 110 film camera that came with half used film inside, am i able to take it out and put it in another camera or will it over expose the film and ruin it?
It will ruin one or three frames, I forget which. But it's not like 35mm film which will result in all the images being ruined.
I wanna try doing this just so I can shoot portra 160 or slide film in my minolta 110 zoom! Tiger 200 is nice but I'd love to have more finer grain film to get the most out of the format.
That's exactly why I do this, too. And to shoot things like Foma 400 just to see how much grain there can be. :D
@@DavidHancock if you really want grain just use some delta 3200
@@Ceph_Bluejay9 🤓 that's a great film. I've done an entire review on it as part of my All About Film series.
Quick question. If you make this 48 frame roll. Can you fit the whole thing in a development reel or do you have to cut it in half? I presume that you could given that it's equal to 24 35mn frames, but I've never developed 110 myself.
That roll will not fit on any 110 spool I know of. I think you'd either have to cut it in half or develop it in a dip and dunk tank.
Wirth to mention that some cameras (like Pentax 110 AUTO) with precise winding accept this solution (no perforation needed). 80% of cameras NEED PERFORATION for frame advancing and shutter enabling. Without perforation one would rewind whole film without single exposure allowed. PS you do not advance twice. This model just needs 2 strokes to advance one frame. Next model Pentax 110 Super required one stroke advance.
Good point and thank you very much!
Have you ever cut a 120 film for 110 cameras? Theres a tool you can get online that does this, and you get 4 rolls of 16mm unperforated film per 120 roll, but I'm not sure how many exposures
Not 120, but 35mm yes. 120 would be more economical and if you're looking at the film slitter sold by the guy in Colorado (I forget his online name, only know him by his real name) then those are good and I have two for different formats.
I had go take out my cartridge on frame one. If I reensert will my remaining frames be ok?
Should be at about frame 3, yes.
Do you know if this works with the minolta 110 slr? (if I were to use 16mm)
I'm not sure. I tried finding that out the other day before this went live. I'm told that most of the advanced cameras (and I assume the Minolta 110 counts as an advanced 110) do not need perforations to function.
Can confirm the Minolta 110 SLR (the 1st model) doesn't need perfs to advance.
Minolta 110 SLR mark 2 needs perfs to advance properly. With 16mm film is 1 shoot 2 miss.
@@petepictures Are you referring to the mk1 or mk2?
Why not use it first?
Use the film the spool came with? If the film is both good and still able to be developed, definitely do.
Would this work with the Minolta 110?
I'm not sure. That depends on if the Minolta needs the sprocket holes. If yes, then this will not work.