I know a lot of people have said something similar to this already, but I can tell you that I never would have attempted replacement of my valve cover gasket if not for this video. I was dreading taking the intake plenum off but having this video as reference helped immensely. Thank you so much for all the information you’ve added to the Xterra community.
I guess I'm going to have to just keep driving this and nurse it until I can afford to get the specialty tools needed here and be able to replace the injectors, knock sensor, and valve cover gaskets all in one go because I'll be damned if I ever do all this shit removing the plenum more than once.
Great, detailed description of the process and what to look out for. Since I just did this procedure I have my own tips to offer: 1) If your vehicle is nearly 20 years old and the intake has never been removed, then do yourself a favor: Don't play around trying to remove the hoses and fiddle around with the clamps. Get in there with a box cutter and slice them apart because you should not even think about reusing those hoses anyway. When you go to install the new water hoses at the back of the manifold don't use those cheap worm gear hose clamps. Use factory spring type replacements or double wire type - they provide more even clamping force around the entire surface of the hose. 2) Those old Nissan quick release wiring connectors will not come off easily if they've been baking from 20 years of engine heat. Be prepared to have them disintegrate in your hand when you try to release them. One thing you can do to help them release is to shoot a jet of silicon spray into both ends before you start squeezing them. The baked in dirt and grease plus the condition of the plastic can make them real stubborn. 3) Take a yellow paint marker and mark each harness connector and EGR/vacuum lines before you start pulling things apart!
excellent tips i have replaced almost every hose on mine, even those one in the back. i will definitely mark are the harnesses and hose with a marker or white out
Rockauto.com or Nissan parts deal should have them. Google search for Nissan Xterra parts catalog and you should find some Nissan dealers that take online orders.
I’m about to get to work on my valve cover under the manifold, and let me tell ya, you are a life saver! I love your videos and what you do for the X community! Keep em coming!!👍🏽
Bout to replace knock sensor and wire in California on my wifes 98 pathfinder. Just got gifted this truck but it lived in Florida so will have to get star smog to register. Going to fix this stuff and keep it all smog friendly so no relocation or modifications. Really Incredible resource you have given us here. Top notch man!
I want to say thank you!!! The screws on the side of the throttle body are PH3 (i almost stripped one using the common PH2), the nut on the EGR tube is 30mm. That was my only close call, the rest of the job went flawless. Thanks again.
I just completed this job on my 2000 Nissan Quest. I replaced all of my injectors, valve cover gaskets, plenum gasket and PCV valve. My recommendation is to take lots of photos and videos with your phone as u disassemble. In total, I had more than 50 photos and videos and w/o them I never would have gotten this together again. Also make notes on the sequence of removal. In total, this job took me more than a week but some time was lost waiting for parts to arrive.
Thanks Bob, wish id seen your video before. This is the best explanation of how to remove the plenium intake manifold. If its just a leaking water hose DO NOT DO IT unless you live in a cold country. Just bypass it. Hope this helps somebody.
Rob this is one of the best videos I have ever seen. You were so articulate and explained everything that I feel I could do this repair myself. Thanks for tanking the time to make this video and helping me and others that don't have the experience you do. Sincerely, Vince R.
I bought a Xterra 04 in Coyhaique, Chile... Its just like the one that you are working on this video and I have to tell you that you have helped me a lot to fix many issues that this machine had, I really like the power of the vehicle and its been a whole lot of learning to be doing the arrengements all by myself, actually Im not a certified mechanic but to introduce mechanical knowledge is part of everyday´s life. Im trying to get some other parts to improve it and to feel more comfortable when I drive the machine but in the place where Im living nowadays its a little bit difficult to find the accesories (logistically speaking). Thanks Again!
I'm glad I watched this video. I have a leak and when I used my phone to record to see where it was coming from I could see it was the small hose attached to the throttle body. I didnt know what location it was at first until you explained the underside of the intake manifold to perfection. Trying to look at diagrams was a pain in the ass but i appreciate your thorough explanation. Helped out so much. Mechanic quoted me $400 to replace because of labor but I might try n do it myself. Thanks again!!!
A “go-to” for intake manifold plenum removal and reinstallation. A tune-up resulted in the #6 spark plug remaining stuck in the heat shield tube. Removing the plenum not only facilitated removing and installing the new spark plug, but also replacing the knock sensor and the left side manifold converter O2 sensor both of which had been sending the occasional code. All of that and the opportunity to replace some hoses which were surely soon to fail. Great video for a real person mechanic with technical ability instead of a fully equipped service center film. JRA
Dude. Big props to you for doing this job. My old Xterra had that issue where I had to disassemble that plenum. ended up towing it to the junkyard instead.
Excellent video! I've just completed removing the plenum on my 02 xterra w/120K miles and encounter no surprises. By the way, after spending 15 minutes pulling on the rear coolant hose, I cut off. I'm looking forward to your other videos once I complete replacing the valve cover gasket. Thanks!
I can understand doing the bypass mod for the intake stuff... however those of us that live in places that get cold in the winter probably should leave them intact. I just ordered a pack of high performance silicone coolant hoses for my pathfinder as I've had to remove the intake once before to address a coolant hose with a pinhole. The silicone hoses will definitely inspire more confidence than those 29+ year old hoses that still remain! Now if only I could find a straight answer on the hex wrench sizing needed to remove the upper intake. Last time a buddy brought his allen sockets by and helped me do it however after ordering a set of them recently I discovered the 5.5mm is too small and the 6mm is a bit too large! Might have just been some rust in there when I tried to test fit the tool the other day... I'm gonna find out this coming weekend in any case.
Thanks Rob, I had this work done my R50 this summer, replaced valve cover gasket, 6 injectors, fuel regulator and spark plugs. The EGR hex nut is a b*tch and the coolant hose at the back. It took me a good half hour figuring out how to maneuver my tools... very very tight space back there, fast forward 2 hours later, I was able to unmount the upper intake manifold plenum. I had a misfire after putting it altogether and after 2 days of troubleshooting, it turned out to be a vacuum leak on the PVC hose.
Rob great video, I have watched it several times in preparation for replacing the valve cover. I will say very detailed and methodical and would have to say on a decent size job its one of the best how to videos I have ever seen. I'm sure I will watch a few more videos of yours soon.
I'll give you credit for being positive because they are a pain in the ass to work on they got a cooling hose right up against the back of the firewall and it goes into the manifold it's almost impossible to get to good lock I hate working on newer vehicles
Thanks for your videos didn’t realize how helpful your channel would end up being when I stumbled on it but, today I bought a 2004 Xterra SE and I am looking forward to using these videos to help me restore it
Rob, if you were my neighbor, I would pay you to do this work on my Frontier VG33E motor ! This thing has been driving me nuts! Those motors are definitely too close to the firewall!
Thank god for this video and yourself sir I just got back from a long 1300 mile trip in my 92 patty and my number 6 injector decided to stop spraying a day after we got back lol. 5 years that it’s been intermittently. Also gonna do my valve covers and knock sensor since I hope to never remove this manifold again.
Great video bud. now do the rear main seal I have a 2003 nissan xterra and I need to do the rear main seal.a instructional video would be much appreciated my friend
@@XterraRob I walked away from an Xterra with a rear main leak. Now own a 4runner with the same leak. I just keep it parked on the lawn, don't have to waste any trees that way! 💯
Yessir it can be done! I recommend using a 1 foot length of heater hose and making a loop up against the firewall (up and back down connecting the base of those two hoses). I did the 90 degree fitting and it caused too much restriction having the sharp 90 degree turn. It was plugging up and forcing my heater core hoses to leak due to pressure build up. I also have another video that details me doing the bypass if you check my timeline.
You are an awsome human being,thank you for your video,just got done changing pita drivers side valve cover gasket and because of you I looked like I knew what I was doing lmfao!!!!!
I know...and I almost did! When I was doing my cams a couple years back I debated for like an hour about whether or not I should just go ahead and do it. But my truck had been pulled apart for so long I took the easy way out so I could get it back together and enjoy it!
@@XterraRob I have to do the knock sensor on my Xterra SC. I'll service the injectors at the same time. Do valve covers and inspect the heads do a proper compression test. If all goes well then a smaller pulley will go on the SC nose.
We have a1999 Frontier 3.3 v6 and this was just what I needed to do a IACV replacement. I don't have torque specs and I did tighten it down good. I hope not to much. While I was there I am doing a fuel injector replacement. Instead of ordering some knock off injectors I finally found a California company that re-manufactures fuel injectors for less than half of the Nissan OEM price. They use OEM core and rebuild. If you don't distroy the injectors you take out you get a rebate for the core return. GB Manufacturing and sod by Carid. I just ordered and will give them a go with a 24 month warranty. OHM to specs. Thanks for the video. I am now looking forward to reassembly. I can't find torque specs for the 5 hex head bolts that bolt the upper intake to the lower intake. It's a 6mm allen socket and I'm putting in a new gasket. The best info I can find is around 12-16 foot pounds. I don't want to strip or bust a bolt. Any idea of the torque spec? Great video.
@@XterraRob Thanks. I'll start in the middle and work my way outward at a low torque and repeat a few times while increasing the torque to 13 foot pounds.
Can't thank you enough for this video bro! I'm about to take this crap on and it's not gonna be fun. I'm in Lake Havasu City Arizona in the summer. We are averaging about 115° to 120° right now. I'm gonna have this video on the TV ready to go when I start.
Not all had them. California had stricter emissions...so some have it and some dont. You can remove the components and plug the holes left behind but you'd get a check engine light if you do.
After taking mine (upper and lower) off to replace the knock sensor and fuel pressure regulator, I replaced all hoses and vacuum lines, some factory some custom. I now have a vacuum leak between the upper and lower plenum. Going to remove the upper and use rtv. Hope that's all besides a coolant leak I think is coming from the fire wall connections to the heater core. Thanks for the great videos. Side note you should tighten fro the middle outward in a circle.
That sounds like a lot of fun to do that repair! I had vacuum leaks when the vertical hose wouldnt slide over the fitting cleanly. It bunched up and prevented a good clamp load when bolting the flanges together. Something to check because the gaskets work well for me.
@Johnny Five The silicone is brilliant! I'll do that. Of all the ugly stuff you have to go through with this job, a little thing like getting a hose back on can end up being the most hated part of the complicated process.
I literally did this on my 00 Frontier last weekend. Done it 3 times: once to replace valve cover gaskets back in '15, once to replace suspected bad lifters in Sept '19, once this past weekend to tear out the aftermarket lifters from 2019 and replace them with OEM ones. I always plug the holes in lower intake manifold with paper towel as soon as I get the Plenum off. I'm too paranoid about dropping something down in there!
Good call on the paper towels to plug up intake runners! I dropped a bolt in once...and my magnet on a stick saved me big time! I was lucky the intake valve wasn't opened enough to drop it in!
Loved the video! Now I can remove mine! Thought you should know though, the slight fisheye lens warping of the intro makes it look like your head was bolted directly to your shoulders.
Thanks for posting I will replace all rubber hoses clamps and everything else when I do this job. These valve gaskets are a PITA I had them replaced once and they started leaking again shortly after. I think I was ripped off and the bolts were just tightened. Stealerships.
Wanted to replace my driver side leaking valve cover gasket and get to the #6 plug to replace. Got about 90% removed until the rear coolant lines, could not get to them plus they were not coming off easy after 160,000 miles. Aborted the mission wasn’t worth the impossible task of trying to remove! Have to put it back together now…
Man I was thinking about doing this to get to the 6th spark plug. I’m confident I could take this apart and not know how to put it back together lol. Guess I’m getting the shortie out and buying one of those wobbly ones lol
The #6 plug is a pain. Super easy with the manifold removed...but not worth the effort if thats all you are doing. I always just swap it out opportunistically. If I have the manifold off for something else...swap the plugs regardless of where I am in the service life.
Complete waste of time to take manifold off to do 6 plug. All you need is 2 x 6” extensions on a ujoint, takes all of 5 minutes, remove hood. Absolutely ridiculous to even consider doing this vid for a plug
Didn't say do this for a spark plug. Said if I am in there for another reason...a spark plug is 8 bucks. May as well while I am in there make it easy. I got it now. I see the comment you were replying too. Correct...yes I agree with you.
I'm starting this because of spark plugs. Ive got a new (to me) 2002 frontier. Everything seemed fine when I bought it a few weeks back, but I noticed an absolutely garbage fuel efficiency. I pulled out the easiest spark plug I'm willing to bet that it's the original factory plug; 157k miles and 20 years old. Got new set of plugs and wires. The left bank (#1, #3, #5) no problem. But the right bank, under the plenum is impossible. The front spark plug (#2) was absolutely encapsulated in mud and God knows what else. Took me about an hour to get it out. The next one (#4) I spent two hours on, with no progress. Screw even trying #6. I believe plenum has to come off to get #4 & #6 replaced, might as well get new gaskets and hoses in there. Currently stuck at the rear coolant hoses... where's my box cutter???
@@XterraRob yeah the PCV breather on that side was oil soaked and fell apart. The two coolant hoses were the consistency of brittle plastic. Customer complaint was he had put 3 starters on and they kept going bad. Valve covers were pissing oil down on top of his starter and frying it. Had to pull the intake to get the drivers side VC off.
Yeah man that's a common way to toast a starter. Mine ended up being the rear of the oil pan though. The rear of the oil pan, rear main seal, and valve covers can all funnel oil into the starter. Not fun!
OMG!!! I need to replace the valve cover gaskets on my daughter's '02. It's very cold out, and after watching your video I'm SO dreading this. I'd rather drip sweat like you were than wipe sweat icicles off my forehead. Your video, however, makes it even possible to contemplate doing this. I'll be watching it every step of the way. Thank you! When I'm done I know I'm going to absolutely HATE Nissan engineers for designing an engine like this! What is seriously wrong with them?!! I miss the simple old days when taking a valve cover off just meant undoing maybe 8 bolts and you're done. Oh, I'm going to be living in hell for a few days!
Its a pain but I am certainly happy to help! Even the passenger side valve cover is a pain with the wire harnesses on top of it :) I have a couple of videos a year or two back where I install cam shafts in my cylinder head. I think it shows a little bit of the actual valve cover removal too. May be worth a check.
Dang, this is a great resource. The most I've done on my X (or any car) is the starter, passenger side valve cover gasket, brakes and soon to be radiator. I need to access the driver side valve cover leak as well, so here I am. This video is very helpful, but also added an intimidation factor lol. Curious what that little thermostatic mechanism is that adjusts via the throttle plate. Looks like where it mounts also has a small coolant leak of some sort. Curious how easy that is to replace. I feel in over my head, but don't want to pay someone near 1k to just do the valve cover gasket. Patience and persistence though, eh?! My X is at 220k, really want to give her some much needed love. If I can pull this off it'll save me the much needed dough for now. Thank you very much for the informative video!
Happy to help my dude. Best piece pf advice is take your time. Start early and have a back up plan in case you need to go to a parts store for more supplies. Plan on having to replace those 2 hoses on the back...so go ahead and have the hoses with new clamps on hand. Replace the manifold gasket too...so get that as well. Depending on your schedule...start on a Saturday morning and leave yourself Sunday to problem solve before you have to drive somewhere on Monday.
@@XterraRob well, I'm back after removing the plenum and doing the O2 sensor, valve cover gasket, replaced some of the coolant lines, manifold gasket and did plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I reassembled, started up and burped all air from the coolant system. After running alright for a day, the truck is throwing a p0505 code. Cold start is fine and target idle is met. Warm startups are odd. Idle jumps up, then almost stalls out around 250rpm before correcting. First highway test had some rumble and sputter at high speed with blinking SES light. Any thoughts? thank you!
P0505 is for idle air control fault. Double check the plug is connected and that the hose is xonnected to the intake tube and clamps are in place. Otherwise, likely an air leak at the intake gasket or one of the small air hoses under the throttle body got missed.
@@XterraRob Thank you so much for the quick response, Rob. You're badass. Connections for the iacv have been checked. I did not go to torque specs on the hex bolts for the manifold. My tightening sequence went from the middle bolt and alternated outward until I could no longer tighten. I'm curious if over tightening could be the issue? Will be searching for that leak tonight. Also will recheck all vacuum lines. Some seem a little dry near the connections, so maybe they are compromised.
@@joedrums8578 I doubt over-tightening them would cause a problem like this...but it is easy to strip the holes so be careful! Did you re-use the old gasket? The Idle Air Control valve functions based on a lot of inputs to the ECU: camshaft position (distributor), mass air flow sensor, coolant temp, throttle position sensor, vehicle speed sensor, intake air temp, etc...and even switches for if the A/C is on or power steering pressure. I would start by checking those things that you touched here. And this all functions based on the assumption that all of the air going into the engine is metered (IE: measured and accounted for in the calculations) and not entered through some alternate leak path. An old trick is to spray carb or throttle body cleaner around the gasketed surfaces or hose joints. If the engine speed jumps up when you spray it, it indicates a leak path as extra fuel made its way in there. As always though, use care when spraying chemicals around an engine, though.
great video i was going crazy trying to find out where the bottom vacuum hose on the lower hard line went for the top air box it wasnt on my truck when i bought it,
This was an amazing video 🙏🏻 really helping me out with doing my fuel injectors and spark plugs for the first time… I noticed that I no longer have the thermal element that adjusts the adle , you referenced this part 20:33 minutes into the video. The too coolant pipes that run to that heater element are capped off.. Will this cause a problem? Our is this the bypass that you were talking about??
Good video.i found out the hard way not to remove the egr from the manifold.. you will never get that bracket back on . best to remove hex nut.it kinda on there but will save you time.the only way I got it back on was to get some nuts the same size as bolt was and thread it just enough so I could put some quickstel to hold nut in position while I screw bolts back in
Good idea to get it back together. That nut clip thing is terrible. First time I took it out I spent 2 hours fumbling with it trying to get it back together. Glad you got it figured out though!
@@XterraRob thank you.i had lost the original bracket earlier.. didn't do me much good because I have big hands.i tried super glue at first but the threads seized up.that QUIK steel kept it in place so I could get it done.i just wish I could have done it like the video.
@@XterraRob Got it all on there a few weeks ago but COVID hit house hold.now my problem is no start but cranks and sputters.. you think it could be crank sensor.it had been running hot awhile ago but got new heads etc put on after a year of driving it I noticed it would stall out.then one day in summer I drove down the road and would not start again.like I said just sputters likes it will try to crank.also after it sputters there is white smoke from air box
Sounds like it may be the distributor. They are known to have a bearing that fails and that will throw off ignition timing and cause all sorts of start up and run issues.
@@XterraRob It still spins etc ..it hasn't jumped time.also I erased my codes and neither show nothing anything anymore since I cleaned intake manifold and etc.
I sprayed intake cleaner into my t.b. without it running. Let it sit out for a couple hours and now it doesn't start! Crank but no start. Shop said I fried the idle air control which in turn fried the ECM!!!
I am skeptical of that diagnosis. Its most likely flooded with spray chemicals in the engine and will need a few more cranks to clear out the extra fuels. Spraying throttle body cleaner in your throttle body will not get your ECM...seems strange a shop woulf say that.
Thanks Rob for the video! Will be doing the 2002 Frontier this week. I have used Bars leak stopper in this vehicle. I supposed this can make these rear hoses even more difficult.... Gotta go to know. Kevin
I just have a question on how you got into learning how to do all the stuff on your channel. Did you just figure it out on your own with the Manuel and other CZcams videos or did you learn from growing up or go to school and learn? I want to start getting into the car thing but I don’t know where to start and what to learn from.
Good question. I learned a bit from everywhere: my dad taught me some, Internet forums, repair manuals, friends, youtube videos, I ended up going to school for engineering because of my interests, and good old fashion trial and error. One thing I'll mention is if you know generally how mechanical systems work (engines, sensors, suspension, brakes, etc) you don't need much detail on how specifically to do the task. You can look at any generic engine bay and see what you need to get to, and see what is in your way from removing said components. If something doesn't seem to be coming free, look closer to see whats holding it down (IE I missed a few wires to disconnect in this video, but found them because the part wasn't coming free easily)...thats a clue to stop and look as opposed to trying harder and breaking something! Howstuffworks.com has a kot of general info to start at the basics.
Intern with your local backyard racecar mechanic. Some love a helping hand in turn will teach you alot of the trade. I learned this way. Also went to votech high school.
Hello Rob excellent videos ,! What are the two electrical plugs for underneath the upper intake plenum? One for idle air control solinoid .the other? Have good luck with your Toyota
Take a look at 29:30 in the video. It looks like it goes to the EGR valve area but I am not certain the function. I am loving the Toyota. I have a bunch of footage and videos I need to post but life is just busy right now! I have my Tacoma built up some and I love the mix of looks, function, off road performance and on road comfort!
This is a GREAT video. I need to replace my knock sensor and need to remove the upper and lower intake manifolds. With the engine tore down that much, do you know if it would be much more trouble replacing the head gaskets too? I know how to tear down the belt system and the brackets with the pulleys down to the cam gears... But would it be worth it to replace the head gaskets? I've never removed heads off an engine and I know there is a specific pattern to loosen and tighten head bolts. Not sure what else to expect.
I wouldn't bother with head gaskets personally unless you have a known blown gasket (compression or leak down test). The bolts are under the valve cover and I seem to recall they are a big Allen wrench. But you have the exhaust manifold attached too. I think you could flex the exhaust enough to maybe slide the gasket out/in to do it...but I think it's more effort than worth if there isn't a problem.
Original location is under the intake manifold on the engine block. Very tough to get to. It is common to relocate it to the top so it is better serviced. Some may say the sensor won't work up top like mine but I haven't had issues.
I have been putting off doing this job, because i have to replace injectors, valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, and put my knock sensor back where it belongs, which i believe mean even taking off more stuff right????
I have to take this off of mine because there is a coolant hose under the throttle body decided to start leaking today 😢, the horse shoe hose. What would cause my X to not fill with gas at the pump station? Shuts off every 3-4 seconds. I already replaced the vent valve purge solenoid by the charcoal canister
I'm having a knock sensor/cylinder 6 misfire reading. Was hoping a relocation of the sensor and a complete tune up would fix it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. No way I can pay a mechanic what they want to do it.
Knock sensor and misfire code will likely be separate issues. Knock sensor code is almost always on with these old Xterra because the code is on in the background (doesn't trigger the light) and no one wants to spend big money to fix a nuisance code. Knock sensor can alert you if engine knock is happening, And prevent mechanical damage. But if your engine is not knocking... Then the knock sensor doesn't have to do anything. Cyl 6 could be anything with fuel, spark or air. What exact codes do you have? And is your light on or off?
Does a bypass affect the vehicles ability to get and keep a good idle, being that the heating element isn't receiving any coolant temperatures to adjust it and is bypassed?
Depends. Mine was smoother. Others have reported rough idling. The element raises RPM when cold and lowers it when hot. I removed the cam surface and bypassed the mechanism all together and adjusted a mechanical stop to kind of keep it in the mid range at all times. I ended up undoing the bypass eventually the next time I had everything out anyway.
Other people have waisted their time posting videos but miss every important information your very detailed and a blessing my guy bless you 🙏🎉
Happy to help my dude!
Ur an absolute legend for this video.
Haha thank you!
I know a lot of people have said something similar to this already, but I can tell you that I never would have attempted replacement of my valve cover gasket if not for this video. I was dreading taking the intake plenum off but having this video as reference helped immensely. Thank you so much for all the information you’ve added to the Xterra community.
Happy to help my dude!
I guess I'm going to have to just keep driving this and nurse it until I can afford to get the specialty tools needed here and be able to replace the injectors, knock sensor, and valve cover gaskets all in one go because I'll be damned if I ever do all this shit removing the plenum more than once.
I am only having trouble replacing the short-ass rubber elbow in the back of the plenum! I have heard more that one person talk about those hoses.
Great, detailed description of the process and what to look out for. Since I just did this procedure I have my own tips to offer:
1) If your vehicle is nearly 20 years old and the intake has never been removed, then do yourself a favor: Don't play around trying to remove the hoses and fiddle around with the clamps. Get in there with a box cutter and slice them apart because you should not even think about reusing those hoses anyway. When you go to install the new water hoses at the back of the manifold don't use those cheap worm gear hose clamps. Use factory spring type replacements or double wire type - they provide more even clamping force around the entire surface of the hose.
2) Those old Nissan quick release wiring connectors will not come off easily if they've been baking from 20 years of engine heat. Be prepared to have them disintegrate in your hand when you try to release them. One thing you can do to help them release is to shoot a jet of silicon spray into both ends before you start squeezing them. The baked in dirt and grease plus the condition of the plastic can make them real stubborn.
3) Take a yellow paint marker and mark each harness connector and EGR/vacuum lines before you start pulling things apart!
Great tips! I just did a video recently about the importance of OEM hoses and clamps. I agree! A hack saw does well to cut the hose too.
excellent tips i have replaced almost every hose on mine, even those one in the back. i will definitely mark are the harnesses and hose with a marker or white out
@@raiderman28where can I buy all the small hoses for the Xterra? I can't find them anywhere online
Rockauto.com or Nissan parts deal should have them. Google search for Nissan Xterra parts catalog and you should find some Nissan dealers that take online orders.
@@jovanialvarez9310 are you talking about the hoses on the intake hose???
I have an 03' Xterra SE and these videos saved my ass countless times when I'm wrenching on ride. Thanks for the effort bro!
Happy to help and let me know what you want to see next!
Rob, it's Oliver I successfully changed the timing belt when I changed the water pump. In large part because of you. You instill confidence! Thank you
Happy to help my dude!!!! Good job!!!
I’m about to get to work on my valve cover under the manifold, and let me tell ya, you are a life saver! I love your videos and what you do for the X community! Keep em coming!!👍🏽
Happy to help...good luck!
Bout to replace knock sensor and wire in California on my wifes 98 pathfinder. Just got gifted this truck but it lived in Florida so will have to get star smog to register. Going to fix this stuff and keep it all smog friendly so no relocation or modifications. Really Incredible resource you have given us here. Top notch man!
you can relocate and still pass smog.. knock sensor is not emission related. i did mine 4 years ago, no issues with smog
I want to say thank you!!! The screws on the side of the throttle body are PH3 (i almost stripped one using the common PH2), the nut on the EGR tube is 30mm. That was my only close call, the rest of the job went flawless. Thanks again.
Rock on!!! Happy to help!
I did the same coolant bypass and it works. Pulling the manifold is now a breeze.
Oklahoma
I just completed this job on my 2000 Nissan Quest. I replaced all of my injectors, valve cover gaskets, plenum gasket and PCV valve. My recommendation is to take lots of photos and videos with your phone as u disassemble. In total, I had more than 50 photos and videos and w/o them I never would have gotten this together again. Also make notes on the sequence of removal. In total, this job took me more than a week but some time was lost waiting for parts to arrive.
Excellent advice! I do the same thing! Photos and especially videos on my phone with voice narration of what you are seeing!
Thanks Bob, wish id seen your video before. This is the best explanation of how to remove the plenium intake manifold. If its just a leaking water hose DO NOT DO IT unless you live in a cold country. Just bypass it. Hope this helps somebody.
Thanks for the comment!
Rob this is one of the best videos I have ever seen. You were so articulate and explained everything that I feel I could do this repair myself. Thanks for tanking the time to make this video and helping me and others that don't have the experience you do. Sincerely, Vince R.
Thank you so much for the nice comment! Always happy to help!
Xterra Rob is everywhere 😆 every time I need something this dude already did it
I got you dude.
I just got done doing mine. Wish this was uploaded about 3 months ago. That’s when I started mine.
Better late than never! :)
I changed my valve cover gaskets 2 years ago. I used another youtube video as a guide. And I'm no handyman. Just take your time.
When you retorqued the upper intake plenum bolts, did you do it in a pattern? If so, is that what the manufacturer recommends?
@@juanito3821 No need in tightening the upper intake bolts in a pattern.
I didnt do a special pattern. Just loosely tighten/start all the bolts in by hand before torquing any ome of them
I bought a Xterra 04 in Coyhaique, Chile... Its just like the one that you are working on this video and I have to tell you that you have helped me a lot to fix many issues that this machine had, I really like the power of the vehicle and its been a whole lot of learning to be doing the arrengements all by myself, actually Im not a certified mechanic but to introduce mechanical knowledge is part of everyday´s life.
Im trying to get some other parts to improve it and to feel more comfortable when I drive the machine but in the place where Im living nowadays its a little bit difficult to find the accesories (logistically speaking). Thanks Again!
Thank you for the great coment! I am very happy to help!
I'm glad I watched this video. I have a leak and when I used my phone to record to see where it was coming from I could see it was the small hose attached to the throttle body. I didnt know what location it was at first until you explained the underside of the intake manifold to perfection. Trying to look at diagrams was a pain in the ass but i appreciate your thorough explanation. Helped out so much. Mechanic quoted me $400 to replace because of labor but I might try n do it myself. Thanks again!!!
Happy to help! You can do it!!!!
Thank you for this video. It answers so many questions. Greatly appreciate your efforts and contributions to the X community.
Thanks for the comments and for watching!
A “go-to” for intake manifold plenum removal and reinstallation. A tune-up resulted in the #6 spark plug remaining stuck in the heat shield tube. Removing the plenum not only facilitated removing and installing the new spark plug, but also replacing the knock sensor and the left side manifold converter O2 sensor both of which had been sending the occasional code. All of that and the opportunity to replace some hoses which were surely soon to fail. Great video for a real person mechanic with technical ability instead of a fully equipped service center film. JRA
Happy to help and thanks for the comment!
Dude. Thank you. You saved me a ton of work
Happy to help! Thanks for the comment.
Been reading your forum stuff for years. Thanks for all you do Rob.
Happy to help my dude!
Thank you for the wonderful tutorial, have to do it this weekend. You definitely helped my confidence for something that is out of my comfort zone.
You can do it! Good luck!
Wanting to change my spark plugs but don't think I can get this done. Much props to you.
You can technically change all your spark plugs without removing all this. You need extensions and patience though. A magnet on a stick helps too!
Dude. Big props to you for doing this job. My old Xterra had that issue where I had to disassemble that plenum. ended up towing it to the junkyard instead.
It's a pain for sure but happy to help anyone I can figure it out!
Excellent video! I've just completed removing the plenum on my 02 xterra w/120K miles and encounter no surprises. By the way, after spending 15 minutes pulling on the rear coolant hose, I cut off. I'm looking forward to your other videos once I complete replacing the valve cover gasket. Thanks!
Thank you so so so so so so so so much for making this! Couldn't figure out where one wire went too and you made this video so in depth thank you man!
Happy to help!
I can understand doing the bypass mod for the intake stuff... however those of us that live in places that get cold in the winter probably should leave them intact. I just ordered a pack of high performance silicone coolant hoses for my pathfinder as I've had to remove the intake once before to address a coolant hose with a pinhole.
The silicone hoses will definitely inspire more confidence than those 29+ year old hoses that still remain! Now if only I could find a straight answer on the hex wrench sizing needed to remove the upper intake. Last time a buddy brought his allen sockets by and helped me do it however after ordering a set of them recently I discovered the 5.5mm is too small and the 6mm is a bit too large! Might have just been some rust in there when I tried to test fit the tool the other day... I'm gonna find out this coming weekend in any case.
6mm Allen key fit mine perfectly!
I have a coolant leak in the back of my engine, it's BAAAD. I'm suspecting it's under the manifold. I will fix this thanks to you
Happy to help and thanks for watching.
Valve cover gaskets/upper intake manifold gasket complete on my 03 Xterra yesterday with the help of this video! Thanks man👍🏽
Very awesome man good job!!!!
Thanks Rob, I had this work done my R50 this summer, replaced valve cover gasket, 6 injectors, fuel regulator and spark plugs. The EGR hex nut is a b*tch and the coolant hose at the back. It took me a good half hour figuring out how to maneuver my tools... very very tight space back there, fast forward 2 hours later, I was able to unmount the upper intake manifold plenum. I had a misfire after putting it altogether and after 2 days of troubleshooting, it turned out to be a vacuum leak on the PVC hose.
Glad you got that all sorted out! Its a complete pain but...it is basically the first step for anything on the VG33e ... Grrr ...
Rob great video, I have watched it several times in preparation for replacing the valve cover. I will say very detailed and methodical and would have to say on a decent size job its one of the best how to videos I have ever seen. I'm sure I will watch a few more videos of yours soon.
Happy to help!
I'll give you credit for being positive because they are a pain in the ass to work on they got a cooling hose right up against the back of the firewall and it goes into the manifold it's almost impossible to get to good lock I hate working on newer vehicles
Thanks for the excellent video. This will come in handy, as I have a bad #2 fuel injector on my 97 Pathfinder.
respect for doing all of this for the hell of it
Haha I was regretting it half way through! But i was committed.
Such an informative video! The best video on replacing hoses underneath the intake manifold..Very well explained! iThank you !!👍👍33:17 33:17
👍👍DOUBLE THUMBS UP AND KEEP ON KEEPING ON 👍👍STRAIGHT UP THE MOST DETAILED INFORMATIVE D.I.Y. VIDEO EVER..THANK YOU!!
XTERRA TOM.
Thank you!!! Happy to help and thanks for the comment!
Thanks for your videos didn’t realize how helpful your channel would end up being when I stumbled on it but, today I bought a 2004 Xterra SE and I am looking forward to using these videos to help me restore it
Awesome thanks for the comment!
Rob, if you were my neighbor, I would pay you to do this work on my Frontier VG33E motor
! This thing has been driving me nuts! Those motors are definitely too close to the firewall!
One of the best videos out there regarding this job, Thanks brother ✌
Happy to help! Thanks for the comment!
Very informative video!! Thumbs up my friend, thank you! 👍🏽
Thank god for this video and yourself sir
I just got back from a long 1300 mile trip in my 92 patty and my number 6 injector decided to stop spraying a day after we got back lol. 5 years that it’s been intermittently. Also gonna do my valve covers and knock sensor since I hope to never remove this manifold again.
Happy to help! Good luck!
@@XterraRob thank you sir 🙏
Great video bud. now do the rear main seal I have a 2003 nissan xterra and I need to do the rear main seal.a instructional video would be much appreciated my friend
Amazon cardboard to line your garage floor. Thats what I do :)
@@XterraRob I walked away from an Xterra with a rear main leak. Now own a 4runner with the same leak. I just keep it parked on the lawn, don't have to waste any trees that way! 💯
Oh the joys of not having an HOA :)
The way you're sweating I hope you're replenishing your fluids with some well deserved cold beer. Great video.
Haha yessir...95 degrees and humid...and half the time I am holding yoga poses over the engine block to get at those coolant hoses!
your the man!
i gotta hose leak beneath plenum. i pondered to bypass. you confirmed it to be possible to do so, thank you. excellent!!!!
Yessir it can be done! I recommend using a 1 foot length of heater hose and making a loop up against the firewall (up and back down connecting the base of those two hoses). I did the 90 degree fitting and it caused too much restriction having the sharp 90 degree turn. It was plugging up and forcing my heater core hoses to leak due to pressure build up. I also have another video that details me doing the bypass if you check my timeline.
@@XterraRob your a lifesaver! the devil is in the details. excellent information!
What size heater hose, if you guys know???
Pretty sure it is a 5/8 hose.
@XterraRob is there any downside to cooling, or any functionality of the intake, after the bypass?
You are an awsome human being,thank you for your video,just got done changing pita drivers side valve cover gasket and because of you I looked like I knew what I was doing lmfao!!!!!
Happy I could help so much! Thanks for the comments and kind words!
Great videos, keep them coming. If you've done this 10 times, it's just a few more bolts to replace the knock sensor properly.
I know...and I almost did! When I was doing my cams a couple years back I debated for like an hour about whether or not I should just go ahead and do it. But my truck had been pulled apart for so long I took the easy way out so I could get it back together and enjoy it!
@@XterraRob I have to do the knock sensor on my Xterra SC. I'll service the injectors at the same time. Do valve covers and inspect the heads do a proper compression test. If all goes well then a smaller pulley will go on the SC nose.
Sounds like you have a fun project! You should make a video and show me the lower intake manifold removal! :)
Thank you this gave me a better understanding of my Pathfinder although I'm not attempting it I believe my injectors are clogged
Happy to help my dude! Thanks for the commemt and thanks for watching!
We have a1999 Frontier 3.3 v6 and this was just what I needed to do a IACV replacement. I don't have torque specs and I did tighten it down good. I hope not to much. While I was there I am doing a fuel injector replacement. Instead of ordering some knock off injectors I finally found a California company that re-manufactures fuel injectors for less than half of the Nissan OEM price. They use OEM core and rebuild. If you don't distroy the injectors you take out you get a rebate for the core return. GB Manufacturing and sod by Carid. I just ordered and will give them a go with a 24 month warranty. OHM to specs.
Thanks for the video. I am now looking forward to reassembly. I can't find torque specs for the 5 hex head bolts that bolt the upper intake to the lower intake. It's a 6mm allen socket and I'm putting in a new gasket. The best info I can find is around 12-16 foot pounds. I don't want to strip or bust a bolt. Any idea of the torque spec?
Great video.
13 to 16 foot pounds per factory service manual. Good luck!
@@XterraRob Thanks. I'll start in the middle and work my way outward at a low torque and repeat a few times while increasing the torque to 13 foot pounds.
That will work!
Thanks man this detailed video saved me a bunch of money. I also tried the coolant mod. Keep up the good work. 🙏🏾✌🏾
Happy to help man! Thanks for the comment.
Very very very much needed. Challenge you to remove the lower intake next lol
Nice try ;) thanks for watching!
Can't thank you enough for this video bro! I'm about to take this crap on and it's not gonna be fun. I'm in Lake Havasu City Arizona in the summer. We are averaging about 115° to 120° right now. I'm gonna have this video on the TV ready to go when I start.
Happy to help...drink water lol. That's hot!
@@XterraRob I live here, so water is a must. About 2 gallons a day! Maybe more when I do this crap. Haha
Hah good luck man let me know if you run into questions.
What I did was pick up the intake and just unbolted the hard lines. Those hose clamps where a pain to get too
After seeing you have to mess with all that egr stuff it makes me glad that I dont have egr, keep up the great videos rob
Jealous! It adds a lot of junk to work around!
How do I get rid of mine? Is that even possible? Why dont you have egr? Is it not a 3.3 liter nissan?
Not all had them. California had stricter emissions...so some have it and some dont. You can remove the components and plug the holes left behind but you'd get a check engine light if you do.
@@Ty-tie_FTW My 01 Nissan Frontier 3.3 doesn't have an EGR valve. I don't live in the dictator controlled Commiefornia lol.
Lucky! I don't either...but now I have the option to with my Xterra!
After taking mine (upper and lower) off to replace the knock sensor and fuel pressure regulator, I replaced all hoses and vacuum lines, some factory some custom. I now have a vacuum leak between the upper and lower plenum. Going to remove the upper and use rtv. Hope that's all besides a coolant leak I think is coming from the fire wall connections to the heater core. Thanks for the great videos. Side note you should tighten fro the middle outward in a circle.
That sounds like a lot of fun to do that repair! I had vacuum leaks when the vertical hose wouldnt slide over the fitting cleanly. It bunched up and prevented a good clamp load when bolting the flanges together. Something to check because the gaskets work well for me.
Never heard that trick before but good idea thanks for sharing!
@Johnny Five The silicone is brilliant! I'll do that. Of all the ugly stuff you have to go through with this job, a little thing like getting a hose back on can end up being the most hated part of the complicated process.
man thank you for uploading in a decent resolution! all the other videos ive found were filmed with a 30yo potatoe
Love the potato reference! Happy to help out!
I literally did this on my 00 Frontier last weekend. Done it 3 times: once to replace valve cover gaskets back in '15, once to replace suspected bad lifters in Sept '19, once this past weekend to tear out the aftermarket lifters from 2019 and replace them with OEM ones. I always plug the holes in lower intake manifold with paper towel as soon as I get the Plenum off. I'm too paranoid about dropping something down in there!
Good call on the paper towels to plug up intake runners! I dropped a bolt in once...and my magnet on a stick saved me big time! I was lucky the intake valve wasn't opened enough to drop it in!
Thank you so much!!!’ With your videos help I aced my project! Whew! 🙇
Happy to help my dude! Thanks for watching!
Loved the video! Now I can remove mine! Thought you should know though, the slight fisheye lens warping of the intro makes it look like your head was bolted directly to your shoulders.
LOL! The go pro lens does funny stuff, but the wide angle lens is wonderful for tight quarters under the truck! Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for posting I will replace all rubber hoses clamps and everything else when I do this job. These valve gaskets are a PITA I had them replaced once and they started leaking again shortly after. I think I was ripped off and the bolts were just tightened. Stealerships.
This video or very very good and thanks to this guy to show a lot of good things from
Wanted to replace my driver side leaking valve cover gasket and get to the #6 plug to replace. Got about 90% removed until the rear coolant lines, could not get to them plus they were not coming off easy after 160,000 miles. Aborted the mission wasn’t worth the impossible task of trying to remove! Have to put it back together now…
They are a pain. Many people end up cutting them with a hack saw then replacing them once the manifold is removed.
HUGE P.I.T.A. LOL. Been there done that and got the oil stained t-shirt to prove it HAHAHA
big thanks for this video man!
Happy to help!
Nice video! I just did this. Taking care of brittle valve cover gaskets.
Man I was thinking about doing this to get to the 6th spark plug. I’m confident I could take this apart and not know how to put it back together lol. Guess I’m getting the shortie out and buying one of those wobbly ones lol
The #6 plug is a pain. Super easy with the manifold removed...but not worth the effort if thats all you are doing. I always just swap it out opportunistically. If I have the manifold off for something else...swap the plugs regardless of where I am in the service life.
Complete waste of time to take manifold off to do 6 plug. All you need is 2 x 6” extensions on a ujoint, takes all of 5 minutes, remove hood.
Absolutely ridiculous to even consider doing this vid for a plug
Didn't say do this for a spark plug. Said if I am in there for another reason...a spark plug is 8 bucks. May as well while I am in there make it easy.
I got it now. I see the comment you were replying too. Correct...yes I agree with you.
I'm starting this because of spark plugs. Ive got a new (to me) 2002 frontier. Everything seemed fine when I bought it a few weeks back, but I noticed an absolutely garbage fuel efficiency. I pulled out the easiest spark plug I'm willing to bet that it's the original factory plug; 157k miles and 20 years old. Got new set of plugs and wires. The left bank (#1, #3, #5) no problem. But the right bank, under the plenum is impossible. The front spark plug (#2) was absolutely encapsulated in mud and God knows what else. Took me about an hour to get it out. The next one (#4) I spent two hours on, with no progress. Screw even trying #6. I believe plenum has to come off to get #4 & #6 replaced, might as well get new gaskets and hoses in there. Currently stuck at the rear coolant hoses... where's my box cutter???
Rob thank you. This helped me tremendous
Had to do this at the shop today, ended up cutting the hoses on the left rear corner because the spring clamps were deteriorated.
That's easier if those hoses are 20 years old!
@@XterraRob yeah the PCV breather on that side was oil soaked and fell apart. The two coolant hoses were the consistency of brittle plastic. Customer complaint was he had put 3 starters on and they kept going bad. Valve covers were pissing oil down on top of his starter and frying it. Had to pull the intake to get the drivers side VC off.
Yeah man that's a common way to toast a starter. Mine ended up being the rear of the oil pan though. The rear of the oil pan, rear main seal, and valve covers can all funnel oil into the starter. Not fun!
OMG!!! I need to replace the valve cover gaskets on my daughter's '02. It's very cold out, and after watching your video I'm SO dreading this. I'd rather drip sweat like you were than wipe sweat icicles off my forehead.
Your video, however, makes it even possible to contemplate doing this. I'll be watching it every step of the way. Thank you!
When I'm done I know I'm going to absolutely HATE Nissan engineers for designing an engine like this! What is seriously wrong with them?!! I miss the simple old days when taking a valve cover off just meant undoing maybe 8 bolts and you're done.
Oh, I'm going to be living in hell for a few days!
Its a pain but I am certainly happy to help! Even the passenger side valve cover is a pain with the wire harnesses on top of it :) I have a couple of videos a year or two back where I install cam shafts in my cylinder head. I think it shows a little bit of the actual valve cover removal too. May be worth a check.
Thank you - great resource!
Bro im a man but forreals your the man !!
been looking for this for 3 years
not in chiltons
Happy to help!
Great Videos! Getting ready to replace knock sensor on my 01.
This will get you half way there!
Dang, this is a great resource. The most I've done on my X (or any car) is the starter, passenger side valve cover gasket, brakes and soon to be radiator. I need to access the driver side valve cover leak as well, so here I am. This video is very helpful, but also added an intimidation factor lol. Curious what that little thermostatic mechanism is that adjusts via the throttle plate. Looks like where it mounts also has a small coolant leak of some sort. Curious how easy that is to replace. I feel in over my head, but don't want to pay someone near 1k to just do the valve cover gasket. Patience and persistence though, eh?! My X is at 220k, really want to give her some much needed love. If I can pull this off it'll save me the much needed dough for now. Thank you very much for the informative video!
Happy to help my dude. Best piece pf advice is take your time. Start early and have a back up plan in case you need to go to a parts store for more supplies. Plan on having to replace those 2 hoses on the back...so go ahead and have the hoses with new clamps on hand. Replace the manifold gasket too...so get that as well. Depending on your schedule...start on a Saturday morning and leave yourself Sunday to problem solve before you have to drive somewhere on Monday.
@@XterraRob well, I'm back after removing the plenum and doing the O2 sensor, valve cover gasket, replaced some of the coolant lines, manifold gasket and did plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I reassembled, started up and burped all air from the coolant system. After running alright for a day, the truck is throwing a p0505 code. Cold start is fine and target idle is met. Warm startups are odd. Idle jumps up, then almost stalls out around 250rpm before correcting. First highway test had some rumble and sputter at high speed with blinking SES light. Any thoughts? thank you!
P0505 is for idle air control fault. Double check the plug is connected and that the hose is xonnected to the intake tube and clamps are in place. Otherwise, likely an air leak at the intake gasket or one of the small air hoses under the throttle body got missed.
@@XterraRob Thank you so much for the quick response, Rob. You're badass. Connections for the iacv have been checked. I did not go to torque specs on the hex bolts for the manifold. My tightening sequence went from the middle bolt and alternated outward until I could no longer tighten. I'm curious if over tightening could be the issue? Will be searching for that leak tonight. Also will recheck all vacuum lines. Some seem a little dry near the connections, so maybe they are compromised.
@@joedrums8578 I doubt over-tightening them would cause a problem like this...but it is easy to strip the holes so be careful! Did you re-use the old gasket? The Idle Air Control valve functions based on a lot of inputs to the ECU: camshaft position (distributor), mass air flow sensor, coolant temp, throttle position sensor, vehicle speed sensor, intake air temp, etc...and even switches for if the A/C is on or power steering pressure. I would start by checking those things that you touched here. And this all functions based on the assumption that all of the air going into the engine is metered (IE: measured and accounted for in the calculations) and not entered through some alternate leak path. An old trick is to spray carb or throttle body cleaner around the gasketed surfaces or hose joints. If the engine speed jumps up when you spray it, it indicates a leak path as extra fuel made its way in there. As always though, use care when spraying chemicals around an engine, though.
If you're taking the upper and lower intake manifold off I hope you put your knock sensor back where it goes so it can do its job
Just upper here. And nah my engine doesn't knock but its something I listen for.
I have a random misfire but when I scanned it, it tells me it’s the fuel gauge sending unit. Is this random or do you know something about this?
Outstanding video , thank you so much !!! Great job, keep up the great work.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the kind comment!
Good idea, i think the intake air temperature will be low. i will make this job next weekend.
great video i was going crazy trying to find out where the bottom vacuum hose on the lower hard line went for the top air box it wasnt on my truck when i bought it,
Happy to help!
This was an amazing video 🙏🏻 really helping me out with doing my fuel injectors and spark plugs for the first time… I noticed that I no longer have the thermal element that adjusts the adle , you referenced this part 20:33 minutes into the video. The too coolant pipes that run to that heater element are capped off.. Will this cause a problem? Our is this the bypass that you were talking about??
Yeah sounds like the bypass mod. If it idles good and doesn't over heat you are ok
Great video man!
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching! Happy to help
Good video.i found out the hard way not to remove the egr from the manifold.. you will never get that bracket back on . best to remove hex nut.it kinda on there but will save you time.the only way I got it back on was to get some nuts the same size as bolt was and thread it just enough so I could put some quickstel to hold nut in position while I screw bolts back in
Good idea to get it back together. That nut clip thing is terrible. First time I took it out I spent 2 hours fumbling with it trying to get it back together. Glad you got it figured out though!
@@XterraRob thank you.i had lost the original bracket earlier.. didn't do me much good because I have big hands.i tried super glue at first but the threads seized up.that QUIK steel kept it in place so I could get it done.i just wish I could have done it like the video.
@@XterraRob Got it all on there a few weeks ago but COVID hit house hold.now my problem is no start but cranks and sputters.. you think it could be crank sensor.it had been running hot awhile ago but got new heads etc put on after a year of driving it I noticed it would stall out.then one day in summer I drove down the road and would not start again.like I said just sputters likes it will try to crank.also after it sputters there is white smoke from air box
Sounds like it may be the distributor. They are known to have a bearing that fails and that will throw off ignition timing and cause all sorts of start up and run issues.
@@XterraRob It still spins etc ..it hasn't jumped time.also I erased my codes and neither show nothing anything anymore since I cleaned intake manifold and etc.
I sprayed intake cleaner into my t.b. without it running. Let it sit out for a couple hours and now it doesn't start! Crank but no start. Shop said I fried the idle air control which in turn fried the ECM!!!
I am skeptical of that diagnosis. Its most likely flooded with spray chemicals in the engine and will need a few more cranks to clear out the extra fuels. Spraying throttle body cleaner in your throttle body will not get your ECM...seems strange a shop woulf say that.
Awesome, very informative. Good video.
Thanks for watching and for the comment.
Thanks Rob for the video! Will be doing the 2002 Frontier this week. I have used Bars leak stopper in this vehicle. I supposed this can make these rear hoses even more difficult.... Gotta go to know. Kevin
Good luck and let me know if you have questions!
Thank you for the help. Much appreciated.
Happy to help! Thanks for watching
Thanks for your vídeos.
Yeah man happy to help and thanks for the comment.
I spent like 2 hours alone trying to get the upper off. Let’s just say some hoses need replacing
That's the joy!
Your video is very helpful. Did you drain your antifreeze before you removed your plenum intake?
I did not. There isn't much in the upper intake plenum anyway. Thanks for watching.
I just have a question on how you got into learning how to do all the stuff on your channel. Did you just figure it out on your own with the Manuel and other CZcams videos or did you learn from growing up or go to school and learn? I want to start getting into the car thing but I don’t know where to start and what to learn from.
Good question. I learned a bit from everywhere: my dad taught me some, Internet forums, repair manuals, friends, youtube videos, I ended up going to school for engineering because of my interests, and good old fashion trial and error. One thing I'll mention is if you know generally how mechanical systems work (engines, sensors, suspension, brakes, etc) you don't need much detail on how specifically to do the task. You can look at any generic engine bay and see what you need to get to, and see what is in your way from removing said components. If something doesn't seem to be coming free, look closer to see whats holding it down (IE I missed a few wires to disconnect in this video, but found them because the part wasn't coming free easily)...thats a clue to stop and look as opposed to trying harder and breaking something! Howstuffworks.com has a kot of general info to start at the basics.
Intern with your local backyard racecar mechanic. Some love a helping hand in turn will teach you alot of the trade. I learned this way. Also went to votech high school.
Excellent idea!
thanks alot man great vid keep it up!
Thanks for the comments and thanks for watching!
Hello Rob excellent videos ,! What are the two electrical plugs for underneath the upper intake plenum? One for idle air control solinoid .the other? Have good luck with your Toyota
Take a look at 29:30 in the video. It looks like it goes to the EGR valve area but I am not certain the function. I am loving the Toyota. I have a bunch of footage and videos I need to post but life is just busy right now! I have my Tacoma built up some and I love the mix of looks, function, off road performance and on road comfort!
THANK YOU ROB
Happy to help my dude.
This is a GREAT video. I need to replace my knock sensor and need to remove the upper and lower intake manifolds. With the engine tore down that much, do you know if it would be much more trouble replacing the head gaskets too? I know how to tear down the belt system and the brackets with the pulleys down to the cam gears... But would it be worth it to replace the head gaskets? I've never removed heads off an engine and I know there is a specific pattern to loosen and tighten head bolts. Not sure what else to expect.
I wouldn't bother with head gaskets personally unless you have a known blown gasket (compression or leak down test). The bolts are under the valve cover and I seem to recall they are a big Allen wrench. But you have the exhaust manifold attached too. I think you could flex the exhaust enough to maybe slide the gasket out/in to do it...but I think it's more effort than worth if there isn't a problem.
You pointed out the knock sensor relocate. I didn’t catch where you pulled the original location from
Original location is under the intake manifold on the engine block. Very tough to get to. It is common to relocate it to the top so it is better serviced. Some may say the sensor won't work up top like mine but I haven't had issues.
Great video thank you bless you
Happy to help!
Muy buena la explicación, pero segui con la traducción 😂😂😂😂, no tienes el manual del motor por fa.
Damn good job bruh
Thanks my dude. Happy to help
I have been putting off doing this job, because i have to replace injectors, valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, and put my knock sensor back where it belongs, which i believe mean even taking off more stuff right????
I have to take this off of mine because there is a coolant hose under the throttle body decided to start leaking today 😢, the horse shoe hose.
What would cause my X to not fill with gas at the pump station? Shuts off every 3-4 seconds. I already replaced the vent valve purge solenoid by the charcoal canister
I'm having a knock sensor/cylinder 6 misfire reading. Was hoping a relocation of the sensor and a complete tune up would fix it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. No way I can pay a mechanic what they want to do it.
Knock sensor and misfire code will likely be separate issues. Knock sensor code is almost always on with these old Xterra because the code is on in the background (doesn't trigger the light) and no one wants to spend big money to fix a nuisance code. Knock sensor can alert you if engine knock is happening, And prevent mechanical damage. But if your engine is not knocking... Then the knock sensor doesn't have to do anything. Cyl 6 could be anything with fuel, spark or air. What exact codes do you have? And is your light on or off?
@@XterraRobdid basically all step by step but my xterra now turns on sputter and turns off
Does a bypass affect the vehicles ability to get and keep a good idle, being that the heating element isn't receiving any coolant temperatures to adjust it and is bypassed?
Depends. Mine was smoother. Others have reported rough idling. The element raises RPM when cold and lowers it when hot. I removed the cam surface and bypassed the mechanism all together and adjusted a mechanical stop to kind of keep it in the mid range at all times. I ended up undoing the bypass eventually the next time I had everything out anyway.