I'm rebuilding a 2004 and the throttle body is stuck on one side. Would there be any reason one side of the throttle bodies would be stuck? It seems to be jammed completely!
I got throttle bodies from 06 R1 in exellent condition, could i install them onto 04 R1 engine. I had detailed look at them and it's the same as 04 R1. Markings on the throttle bodies are not the same, for 04 R1 it's 5VY-13750-00-00 and for 06 R1 it's 5VY-13750-30-00. Thanks in advance.
I need some advice regarding to my 2004 R1, i service the bike myself, bought it 6 months ago, before 1500km (now 45200km) changed oil and filter, spark plugs, coolant, repaired starter motor (new brushes), adjusted TB intake vacuum. Engine runs smooth and pulls strong without any hickups, starts cold and hot without problems. The problem is when i start the bike and take it to warm at working temperature and higher (fans kicks in) without riding it and then shut it down it starts without problems, when cooled down a little (70 deg C or so) it also starts at once without problems. BUT when i ride it for i while and then shut it down and let it cool down a little (70 deg C or so 5-10 min.) it WONT start at once, starter motor is cranking with normal speed but it takes 3-5 seconds to turn off the fuel light and start the engine. Another thing, when i ride it for a while, shut it down and start it instantly there is no problem. I dont know what to do, it is a minor but annoying problem and i cant solve it. Other than that thing bike running smooth, pulls strong, fuel consumption is normal, no abnormal mechanical noises from engine.
Honestly it could be a lot of things since its a higher millage bike now. But my two first guess to check would be the valve clearances. If they have not been done by now its probably time, and they can cause temperature dependant hard starting if its not sealing well. The other area it could also be is the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. sometime they can behave as you describe.
@@DeWoodysShop Thanks for the information. First i will start with the valve clearance check as you said. In service manual says that it could be done with the engine in the frame with radiator and throttle bodies removed. What do you think about generator rotor failures on R1 04-08 (rotor magnets fall of) what would be the cause, i have older model inside and i intend to change it with updated one. I heard some stories about valve stem tip wear on the R1 04-06 which causes that valve drops into the cylinder, did you heard something about that issue. Other than that your 2004 R1 rebuild videos are very detailed and informative, they helped me a lot.
@@jj-yw1or Yes its not a problem doing it in the frame. This is the normal way, its just hard to film so mine are almost always out when i film it. The valve tip thing can happen. they are prone to dropping valves. thats what happened to this one. But there is also not much you can really do about it. Keep them correctly adjusted and dont over rev it . The rotor thing can happen but it pretty obvious when they come apart since parts start to contact each other.
Hi, it's me again with another bunch of questions. I am preparing to check valve clearance/adjustment on my 04 R1, in Yamaha service manual stands that during clearance check you must first align mark T with crank housing mating surfaces with cyl no.1 at TDC on compression stroke turning crankshaft CCW. After that you must turning crankshaft CCW every 180deg and checking valve clearances on cyl 2,4,3. I watched your videos and in there i saw that you turn crankshaft CW during valve clearance checking, which is more logical to me then yamaha's CCW procedure. This yamaha's service manual CCW crank rotation during valve clearance checking is observed from where, i suppose that is when observing directly to pickup (right side of the engine). How much of the valve tip condition could I see when cylinder head is in the frame without removing valves. I am asking this because I am not intend to remove cylinder head. During that i will remove throttle bodies and replace fuel pressure regulator, i think it's much easier with TB removed. I recently replaced primary TP sensor with updated one (factory recall) i set it up to 16 (closed throttle), and to 96 (fully opened throttle), this was the same values as the old one, whether is it set correctly or should i set it up to different values. I am asking this because I read on different forums that updated TP sensor should be set to minimum of 18 when throttle closed. Thank you in advance.
I'm not sure about which way they are calling cw or ccw, but they should always be turned the way the engine normally turns. Turning them backwards can make the tensioner collapse if it's not locked already or skip teeth. You cannot see the value tips they are taking about if the retainers are still on.
The tps should be just fine but since it's a different sensor i would probably set it to the min just to be sure. 2 degrees likely won't matter though.
@@DeWoodysShop So, to absolutely be sure about valve tips i need to strip down the cylinder head, i will do that if i find that some valve clearances are abnormal or retainers, cups and other upper parts of the head have some sign of abnormal wear or damage. What do you think, should i replace the chain tensioner with new one as well regarding to bike age and mileage. I saw in cat. that yamaha changed tensioner with new modified one, part no. 999-99040-80-00, the old one is 5vy-12210-00-00. Engine is running fine and i don't hear any valve train noise. Thanks for your patience and advice.
@@branko917 yes, you can see the tip but they fail where the narrow spot is for the retainer which you can't see unfortunately. At 24,000 miles all your sliders and the tensioner should be fine. Just visually inspect and make sure there are not deep grooves in them. You can rebuild the tensions and clean it if you want also.
I needed the view of the otherside when you put the throttle cables on and for the return cable placement
Nice video thek you
Thanks!
очень понравилось как всё аккуратно делается. жду следующее видео!
Thanks! The final one should be out next week!
What color is the powder coat on the R1 rims??
Привет! Посмотрел твое видео и решил r1 свой перебрать не разбирая двигатель. Хочу поставить цифровой индикатор скорости.
Good luck, technically the speedometer is already digital, so in theory it should be possible.
I'm rebuilding a 2004 and the throttle body is stuck on one side. Would there be any reason one side of the throttle bodies would be stuck? It seems to be jammed completely!
Its really hard to say without seeing them. But it probably corroded. Can try some penetrating oil. make sure the butterfly's are not jammed.
I got throttle bodies from 06 R1 in exellent condition, could i install them onto 04 R1 engine. I had detailed look at them and it's the same as 04 R1.
Markings on the throttle bodies are not the same, for 04 R1 it's 5VY-13750-00-00 and for 06 R1 it's 5VY-13750-30-00. Thanks in advance.
They are interchangeable. I have swapped them before.
I need some advice regarding to my 2004 R1, i service the bike myself, bought it 6 months ago, before 1500km (now 45200km) changed oil and filter, spark plugs, coolant, repaired starter motor (new brushes), adjusted TB intake vacuum. Engine runs smooth and pulls strong without any hickups, starts cold and hot without problems. The problem is when i start the bike and take it to warm at working temperature and higher (fans kicks in) without riding it and then shut it down it starts without problems, when cooled down a little (70 deg C or so) it also starts at once without problems. BUT when i ride it for i while and then shut it down and let it cool down a little (70 deg C or so 5-10 min.) it WONT start at once, starter motor is cranking with normal speed but it takes 3-5 seconds to turn off the fuel light and start the engine. Another thing, when i ride it for a while, shut it down and start it instantly there is no problem. I dont know what to do, it is a minor but annoying problem and i cant solve it. Other than that thing bike running smooth, pulls strong, fuel consumption is normal, no abnormal mechanical noises from engine.
Honestly it could be a lot of things since its a higher millage bike now. But my two first guess to check would be the valve clearances. If they have not been done by now its probably time, and they can cause temperature dependant hard starting if its not sealing well. The other area it could also be is the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. sometime they can behave as you describe.
@@DeWoodysShop Thanks for the information. First i will start with the valve clearance check as you said. In service manual says that it could be done with the engine in the frame with radiator and throttle bodies removed. What do you think about generator rotor failures on R1 04-08 (rotor magnets fall of) what would be the cause, i have older model inside and i intend to change it with updated one. I heard some stories about valve stem tip wear on the R1 04-06 which causes that valve drops into the cylinder, did you heard something about that issue. Other than that your 2004 R1 rebuild videos are very detailed and informative, they helped me a lot.
@@jj-yw1or Yes its not a problem doing it in the frame. This is the normal way, its just hard to film so mine are almost always out when i film it. The valve tip thing can happen. they are prone to dropping valves. thats what happened to this one. But there is also not much you can really do about it. Keep them correctly adjusted and dont over rev it .
The rotor thing can happen but it pretty obvious when they come apart since parts start to contact each other.
Hi, it's me again with another bunch of questions. I am preparing to check valve clearance/adjustment on my 04 R1, in Yamaha service manual stands that during clearance check you must first align mark T with crank housing mating surfaces with cyl no.1 at TDC on compression stroke turning crankshaft CCW. After that you must turning crankshaft CCW every 180deg and checking valve clearances on cyl 2,4,3. I watched your videos and in there i saw that you turn crankshaft CW during valve clearance checking, which is more logical to me then yamaha's CCW procedure. This yamaha's service manual CCW crank rotation during valve clearance checking is observed from where, i suppose that is when observing directly to pickup (right side of the engine). How much of the valve tip condition could I see when cylinder head is in the frame without removing valves. I am asking this because I am not intend to remove cylinder head. During that i will remove throttle bodies and replace fuel pressure regulator, i think it's much easier with TB removed. I recently replaced primary TP sensor with updated one (factory recall) i set it up to 16 (closed throttle), and to 96 (fully opened throttle), this was the same values as the old one, whether is it set correctly or should i set it up to different values. I am asking this because I read on different forums that updated TP sensor should be set to minimum of 18 when throttle closed. Thank you in advance.
I'm not sure about which way they are calling cw or ccw, but they should always be turned the way the engine normally turns. Turning them backwards can make the tensioner collapse if it's not locked already or skip teeth. You cannot see the value tips they are taking about if the retainers are still on.
The tps should be just fine but since it's a different sensor i would probably set it to the min just to be sure. 2 degrees likely won't matter though.
@@DeWoodysShop So, to absolutely be sure about valve tips i need to strip down the cylinder head, i will do that if i find that some valve clearances are abnormal or retainers, cups and other upper parts of the head have some sign of abnormal wear or damage. What do you think, should i replace the chain tensioner with new one as well regarding to bike age and mileage. I saw in cat. that yamaha changed tensioner with new modified one, part no. 999-99040-80-00, the old one is 5vy-12210-00-00. Engine is running fine and i don't hear any valve train noise. Thanks for your patience and advice.
@@branko917 yes, you can see the tip but they fail where the narrow spot is for the retainer which you can't see unfortunately. At 24,000 miles all your sliders and the tensioner should be fine. Just visually inspect and make sure there are not deep grooves in them. You can rebuild the tensions and clean it if you want also.