Technics SL-1200 MKII, M3D, MK5 model differences
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- čas přidán 10. 07. 2024
- I go over the feature differences between three different Technics SL-1200 models - the MKII or MK2, M3D, and MK5.
Changes to the M3D from the MK2 include:
1) Pitch control Reset switch
2) Headshell holder
3) Power switch collar
4) No hinges included
Changes to MK5 from MK2
1) All the changes from M3D
2) Different tonearm with Anti-Skate from 0-6g grams (0-3 grams on MK2 and M3d), and height adjustment from 0-6mm.
3) Voltage selector switch (for other mains power, previously only for SL-1210 models)
4) Available in Noir black and silver.
SL-1200MK5G - added digitally controlled pitch adjustment.
There was an SL-1200MK4 and MK6, however, those are Japan only models. MK4 had 78 speed, and MK6 had improved tonearm mounting and oxygen-free copper tonearm wire.
There was also an SL-1200 MK3 (Japan only in black) that was exactly like the MK2, but added gold plated RCA jacks instead of hard wired output, as well as MK3D, which also added the speed Reset switch.
More info - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Technic...
Thanks a ton for this video. Your information and detective work is very much appreciated. I’ve got an M3D that I’ve done a ton of upgrades and mods to mostly through Kevin Barrett at KAB. I also replaced the tonearm and added internal damping and new Cardas wires. I got a super deal on on my M3D, which fortunately hadn’t been a DJ deck. I got it from the original owner who bought it in 2000, and the serial number lines up with that.
I borrowed a new 1200GR from a friend, and actually preferred my M3D, most likely due to all the upgrades and modifications. I’ve also got a Yamaha’s flagship TT from the mid to late 80’s, the PX-2, but my go to is my Technics.
Again, thanks a million for this vid.
I bought my 3D in college and I recently bought one for my wife but an MK5. I have also used Kevin for mods specifically the liquid dampener but I also have removable RCA and silver litz in my 3D but original tone arm and attached the hinges. Going to the same mods with my wife MK5! I am debating holding off because I would like to hunt if not source and MK4 so badly; using a Sansui SR-929 as my display turntable.
Hopefully one day I get a table made and some type of mixer. Love these tables! Also, proudly own a Garrad Lab-80 but that's in my classroom.
I just purchased a MKII from my local record shop owner, I have always loved the MKII, it's my favorite of all the models. I used to have a pair of M3D when I used to DJ and ended up selling them. Regretted that, but glad to have a MKII for my home audiophile listening. I got my MKII, for $325.It's in near mint condition and nearly 40 years old
Visually, the M3D and MK5 are equally similar (Pitch Reset Button and sunken Power Switch)... With the exception of the LED Stylus Light and the Anti Skate maxed out at 6....
I think the easiest way to tell them apart from afar is by the Model Labeling on the chassis. MK5 follows the "stacked" labeling like the MK2s:
Technics QUARTZ
Direct Drive Turntable System. SL-1200MK5
M3D labeling is "straight across" as shown below:
Technics QUARTZ. Direct Drive Turntable System SL-1200M3D
The MK 5 has a break adjustment accessible under the platter without the need to remove the cover to access the PCB. Also the MK 5 has a LED target light from factory. The M3D still was shipped with a light bulb. The zero-click removal on the M3D and successors was made because us DJ's were annoyed when beatmatching tracks near the zero point.
Yes, my M3D light is out. And yes, that is a good point. The slider always wants to fall in that zero-click and hard to get really close without it falling in. I just know that switch was a huge point of failure on the MKII, just like the power switch. I was unaware of the brake adjustment on the MK 5.
The standard rubber mat is better than the cork mat....fact.
Hi! Genuine question and thanks for the video, what is the reasoning for wanting to change/switch needles during a session? This will help me understand so much.
Different carts? You may not want to run your high dollar cart on low to medium quality vinyl or play in the background.
Just a quick note on the M3D pitch light. From the factory, its green. The strobe light is red. I have a pair and I love them.
Good video.
Thanks for the info!
do you find them harder to mix than mk2s?
@@wsx6991 I am and audiophile really, not a DJ. However, I think the added features of the M3D does make the SL-1200 more robust. However, they are fairly the same.
@@wsx6991 from the mk2’s til the mk5’s, they should be exactly the same. The m5g’s (and I believe mk6’s) have a digital pitch fader, which to some people is more difficult to mix on. The upgraded tonearm wires (I believe) are only on the m5g’s.
For some reason, there’s a misconception that the M3D has a digital pitch fader. That’s not true, what it does have is a quartz lock button, but that just sets the turntable to 0% aka perfectly 33.3 rpm/45 rpm.
Actually, the M3D/MK5 should be easier to mix on than the MK2 because the pitch doesn’t have quartz lock in the middle. A perfectly calibrated M3D/MK5 SHOULD be quartz locked in the middle, but the light doesn’t turn on, it’ll just spin at quartz locked speed (again if calibrated). The pitch on them (M3D/MK5) functions as a gradient throughout the whole slider, rather than the MK2 where it can have a pitch jump when you come off the quartz locked middle.
@@djsd-1292 i've played on almost every model possible and i find mk2/mk3s easiest to mix, pitch feels much more responsive and platter seem to respond to pitch movement much quicker. i have mk3ds at home. pitch is fine but i find it really close to m5gs feeling wise. with mk3ds and m5g you just have to wait longer till platter stops this makes beatmatching process longer. have no issues to beathmatch on any model i just think mk2/mk3 are much more responsive than any other model
I'm getting ready to use phase DJ. I have a Techniques SL-1210 mk2, and a Techniques SL-1200 mk2. A Dj i know keeps telling me I should get the M5. He says the M5 and the M7 have good improvements, and more features?
What do you guys think? Are the newer Techniques anymore precise or better performance?
The newer Technics have superior motors that will not wear out a bearing as quicker and has better torque and stability. I don't think you can go wrong with either one, but the new ones are awesome for the long run.
KAB offers a thrust plate made out of delrin which replaces the old metal ones the bearing rides on. It takes about 15 min to install it. It’s also got a tiny trough that holds a bit of oil to keep the bearing lubricated. They’re said to spin as long as a sapphire bearing. But, new or old, a Technics deck is one you’ll have for life. It’s not a concern of mine, but the new ones are made in Malaysia, where the originals were Japanese made.
@stereoazimuth lol...the new motor is about cogging and eliminating it...seriously, no one has a clue in this thread!
The mk2 is good, keep with them...if serviced properly you will have them for life.
Are the M3Ds increasing or decreasing in value? I don't use my pair that much, I wonder if I should sell them. Bit worried that they are tanking in value since technics and pioneer released their new turntables.
I don't keep up. Values of SL-1200's vary quite widely. New Technics tables still do not have the same features at the same price point, and the Pioneer's don't have quite the specs (they are still Hanpin built).
@@stereoazimuthyou see, a great example of not knowing what uoure on about.
ive compared the sound of the mk3, mk3d 1500c and the 1200gr. the mk3d is the warmest and least bright sounding of the 4. did you compare the sound of the models?
Much of this can be traced back to the tonearm wire. Newer ones have much better wire and the MK3 and older can found duller in comparison.
I’ve had about 8 of these in my lifetime I now own a mk7 and restoring a mk2 1210 in black do you know if the platter from the 3d can be used on a 1210 ?
I think the platters are the same.
The 1210mk2 for me is the best deck. I’ve spent around 2k finding a pair and fully restoring them back to new. Plinth’s professionally resprayed and new graphics. I would only do this with mk2s. The towers I’ve modded by removing the rubbers from the weights of other decks and slid them down the towers so now they can’t be accidentally turned off. Just little touches that make all the difference. The reset button on later decks to me is completely pointless. The click on the pitch is a ball bearing with a spring for tension that pushes up against a cut out on the housing of the slider giving it a click feel. That’s all it is. Experienced djs learn to stay away from that area.
Right, but that ball bearing wears out over time, and if you are pitched out and you have to put on another quick, no siliding. I like it as an audiophile because I know the speed is dead perfect.
@@stereoazimuth been a dj since I was 14 I’m now 42. Had loads of pairs of decks and I’ve mixed on load more. First of all. That ball is a steal ball bearing that’s in the Side of the plastic housing that has the stork for the pitch button attached to it and the forks that touch the track. That ball is forced to the housing of the slider with a spring. On the side of the housing is a little slot cut out that the ball bearing hits causing a click feel. That slot is just wide enough that the ball sits inside it holding a 0% although with the design of the carbon tracks it will always be 0% with or without the bearing to hold the slider as there is a break dead centre. The pot could be out 3% and still register 0% dead centre. Putting the pitch back to 0% while mixing would be of no use at all. I’ve never used that reset button or reverse on other decks. If your mixing your on it 100% and wouldn’t waste time pressing reset as 9x out of 10 you will be way off 0% to match the track playing. The danger zone is a big problem for djs as if you end up mixing and hit the click you would have to speed up or slow down the playing track to get out of the click area. Most djs start at +1% so they stay away from the click hopefully. You need to know your vinyl too. Knowing your vinyl helps with pitch and mixing as you know when the breaks happen. To have a deck just for listening purposes yes reset is probably a thing but if my wife listens to her vinyls the pitch is always set to 0% before turning the deck off. But just to verify about the bearing. You could hook the pitch up to something for a week none stop clicking it back and forth past the 0% and have it clicking and it would not put any wear on the bearing. The carbon tracks maybe but nothing will happen to the bearing
@@SaucyBegger25 I trust your DJ experience and moving the detent out of the way the way your describing is a good idea. And yes, the 0-point could be out of sync. I have seen more than one SL-1200 where the bearing was broke due to overuse or just developed a dead spot. The Reset switch was a cheap way of not having to redesign the slider switch to not fault or wear down to keep 0 from moving around since is bypasses the slider completely. Even the new Pioneer and Technics decks have a Reset switch. So you might not find it useful for DJ use, but its there. It seems you have already adapted to it not being there, and that's fine.
I have a pair of mk5 but I do regret selling my pairs m3ds & mk2 sl1210 .
The MK5 tonearm has oxygen free copper wiring and the antiskate goes up to 6
I did not know this! Thanks for this information!
@@defcreator187 incorrect my friend. All MK5’s go up to 6.
@@defcreator187 🤦🏻♂️
yes i heard that the wiring is diff for the mk5. does this brighten up the sound compared to the mk3d?
@@stereoazimuthsomething you didn't know again lol
It’s not pronounced M K five….you say it as “mark” 5 or “mark 2” etc…
But yet it is M 3 D. Whatever. You say it your way, I'll say it mine.
why so? can you elaborate? what does it mean exactly? i'm asking from a genuine desire to learn. Thanks!
@@funcionyforma I guess I just look at it like it is a model number and not a shortened word. You will hear it both ways, not something to worry about.
@@stereoazimuth yeah, I get that and I think you're right, but I just can't! I mean, maybe the m it's for model, I don't know, but that K is killing me!