GREAT Performance nearly cost me deep. - Gaming Laptop Liquid Metal Mod
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- čas přidán 25. 06. 2024
- #liquidmetal #GamingLaptop #laptopmod
This little project nearly went SO WRONG, but the moment I got it right? the results were TREMENDOUS.
Despite nearly screwing up big time, the benefits have really got me going, "LIQUID METAL ALL THE THINGS"
0:00 Intro
0:49 Default Thermal Paste & Baseline Numbers
1:27 Switching to Liquid Metal
2:28 No More Thermal Throttling! Higher Performance!
4:41 Too Little, Too Much.
6:11 Short Circuiting, BSODs, Crashes and the Perfect Balance
7:27 Great results at your own risks, Outro
I used the Ausbond Liquid Metal TIM, a cheap Chinese liquid metal, but you can get the more tried and tested Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut here.
Malaysia (Lazada):
c.lazada.com.my/t/c.0LjhzJ?ur...
USA (Amazon):
amzn.to/3d2s9jB
Music:
Sappheiros - Sorrow
/ @sappheiros
Got Questions? Hit me up on Twitter or Facebook:
/ techrodent
/ techrodent - Věda a technologie
I've applied LM to 5+ units and so far none of them ran into issue (the oldest of them being 2 years, which I use it daily and gets tossed around a lot). LM should be safe if and only if you prep it well. When applying LM on the heatsink, make sure you take imprint from the die so you don't overcoat the area. ALWAYS use acrylic conformal coating on the contact point and resisters. Apply two coats if you have to. Put electrical tape (3M Super 33+) around the die without overlap. Do all this and you will never run into the issue you are having in the video. Maybe you can do a video on how to properly apply LM!
Absolutely! When I'm good enough and comfortable teaching others how to.
I usually smear cheap Thermal Compound around the dies to prevent LM to leak around.
@Daniel Basulto most gaming laptop should come with bare copper. only the very high end one came with nickel-plated copper
Thank you for your insight, i just have one question. The electrical tape do you just have it on while you are applying LM and afterwards remove it or do you leave there as protective layer? Thank you in advanced for your time and answer.
@@michael2028 Bassicaly from all videos i have watched liquid metal go through copper and cpu/gpu a bit but more on copper. It is not recomended to use liquid metal specially if it's digging into cpu/gpu
If you decide to do that just apply some layer of protective liquid on those circuits around processors and a layer of tape. Some guys use nail clear coat.Leave that tape there even after finish the work as a extra protection
personally i would use it if it wasn't that corossive on copper and if it wasn't drying that quich
I've watched videos and i've seen liquid metal completely dry and corroded dyi's and heat sinks after just 9 months......so my gaming laptop don't deserve this
i rather stick with thermal grizzly compound ang changing yearly as i'm a hard player and 4k movie watcher
Fantastic tips. Learning from ur mishaps! Thank you very much!
As per LTT’s video, he put electrical tape at the sides to prevent leakage. Wonder if that might help in installation.
I do have some kapton tape, but I think that some kind of spray coating might be better.
@@TechRodent yeah buy comformal coating
sir, big thanks for all information and pictures, now i will aplicate liquid metal way more carefouly
A lot of people cover the components near the GPU or CPU with clear nail polish.
So i had LM sitting on my shelf for a month before i applied it on a rog scar 3-came preinstalled with tape around the gpu and cpu. everything worked out great. my cpu never breaks 90 degress under load and while i got my gpu under good temps with thermal grease the LM has it never breaking 70. I will note i did not throw any LM on my heatsink for fear of the run off onto anything, just the simple droplet and spread around :) glad i took the risk feels like a much more stable laptop
So it's okay to use it without conformal cotting. If applied carefully?
@@nanngahatoori no, I actually bricked my laptop a year ago doing a poor job reapplying a fresh coating for my laptop. Definitely do not do liquid metal without the coating and TAPE. Once a rouge drop of lm goes on the board it's over.
Even before you started talking about the issue, when I saw you applying the liquid metal my initial thoughts were "why he did not insulate the smd's?" you have to coat them with nail polish or something like that.
Live and learn. Post this video, all my liquid metalled systems use a miniature model clear coat.
The video was meant to be a lot of "do as I say, not as I do" and "learn from my near miss" haha
@@TechRodent I see! I am considering trying to put a piece of thin foam around the die, that's what manufacturers seem to do.
thermal grizzly offers a conductive shield solution for these type of situations, apply it on the exposed smd, let it cure/dry and you're good to go.
you made a few mistakes there fella.
first you should have applied a lot less, like a grain of rice amount and worked it until it becomes liquidy. then you should have only applied it on the die as that way its easier to assess the amount to use and keeps the compound loacalised, away from other components. last and most importantly, before applying liquid metal to any system, tape the dies accurately and use a few coats of non conformal spray on all surrounding electronics. This creates a barrier that stops the liquid metal making contact to parts with a live current.
tape it, spray it, apply it only on the die. job done.
you can also create a barrier around the LM with high temperature thermal silicone, this is mostly to stop the liquid metal from drying out in time as it creates an air tight gasket around the die. dont do this step unless you've used non conformal spray.
So apply on the die only, not the heat sink...
I'm preparing my Asus laptop today, LM on the c p u only, but maybe reapply regular paste like Arctic mx6 on the gpu?
I did it on my Asus Scar III last January, with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut. I saw an improvement of between 5-9C on my CPU and my gpu only maxed out at 84C, for the first 3 months. But the thermals reverted back to its performance before liquid metal. I still haven't reapplied LM because some of the heatsink screws were stripped. I'm still looking for safe ways to remove those screws.
Oof, not good
I believe those tiny pieces of metal are coming from heatsink because liquid metal reacts with copper and become dry and loose.
I was wondering why you didn't apply a coating on those smd's or at least some electrical tape to prevent shorts.
I saw a der8eur video of nickel plating our heatsinks as liquid metal is corrosive with copper. It's better to go that way to be safe.
I applied liquid metal on two laptops and Steam Deck, glad everything worked out just fine, however, it is indeed very risky if you screw up somewhere in the process.
Dude, its called "dielectric paint" or if you actually have a GF, use some of her clear nail polish, all exposed or non lid covered cores will ned protecting.
I did apply LM on my 9750h with unlocked tdp with RTX 2060 90w
Kryonaut:
71-74c on CPU running 4.0ghz all core 58w to 60w ( Cinebench R15 scored 1300 )
74c on GPU ( Unigine heaven )
on GPU+CPU combine loads CPU around 83c to 86c GPU around 83c
Conductonaut:
64c-66c on CPU running 4.0ghz all core 58w to 60w ( same cinebench scores )
67c on GPU ( Unigine heaven )
on GPU+CPU combine loads CPU around 74c and GPU around 77c maximum
BTW i modded my bios and my 9750h doesnt throttle and can maintain 55w to 60w on full load even with combine GPU+CPU loads
You need either some type of tape or nail polish/conformal coating on the sides.
Best alternative to liquid metal is Gelid GC Extreme thermal non conductive compound.
I love GC Extreme! Easily one of the best pastes I've used
I opened mine up and suprisingly the 2070 super max q already had a plastic protection thing that only exposed the die, probably the easiest liquid metal installation with no compromises
all right until today? do you move your notebook a lot?
I will stick with classic thermal grease, I guess. Thank you for your video, it is always interesting.
honestly liquid metal on laptops should be an absolute last resort due to the risk if you unexperienced, but in this case I was experiencing high temps on my gaming laptop but after a bit of investigation I found my factory thermal paste to be dry so I replaced my thermal paste with a much higher quality paste that had a thermal conductivity of 12.5W/mk compared to the common factory pastes that have a rating of around 8.5W/mk - 9.5W/mk and fresh thermal pads also combined with a aggressive but stable undervolt of -165mv I don't even see 75C on both chips under full gaming load. so in summary assess your laptop and handle the situation accordingly you don't always need liquid metal! but keep in mind all laptops are different what happened to mine is not guaranteed to happen to yours but every option is worth a try before liquid metal.
I am looking to buy a laptop using ryzen processor.What comes in my mind are illegear onyx v ryzen,lenovo legion 5 and tech armory helium 5 ryzen. If the laptop screen support 100%srgb is a plus.My budget is around RM 3.5k and below RM 4k. Can suggest me which laptop is the best?If got any suggestions using laptop Intel processor is good too,but I prefer with ryzen because the price is cheaper than Intel laptop based.
Thank you for this video!
Dissuaded me from doing it!
Thanks!
how about undervolt? Can you make a video about undervolt, and with the liquid metal applied, and check what is the temperature. I think might be lot more reduced.
It's in the list of videos I'm doing. 👌
Great video on how to do it and (probably even more important) how NOT to do it :D I'm about to do the same on my girlfriend's 10 year old laptop to see what happens. She wants to buy a new laptop outright but I want to give it one last kiss of life before we chuck it and splurge on something that she probably won't even use that much anyway.
I use clear nail polish on the resistors.
Same is happening to me, 1050 went bye bye from the devices. Now I'll use thermal paste for the GPU, and metal for CPU, not worth the risks because the real hot thing is the CPU.
you must add some thermal pad around cpu and gpu die to harness LM but for 5 6 degree cooler not worth risk hardware
Conformal coating and electrical tape
Applied on acer predator 2018 along with electrical tape. Few months after. No bsod no crashes. But when playing games the gpu outputs greeenish and purple artifacts.
Sounds very much as if you could be having some contamination of the surrounding SMDs; maybe some of those liquid metal 'powder' got under the electrical tape
I agree, you (the one of doing the video) shouldn't do LM. No more comments.
As always, very informative. I have a suggestion for your next video. The Asus Zephyrus G14 received much hype globally but I am assuming the price is a bit on the higher side for most Malaysians. Illegear has released the illegear onyx v ryzen and I personally feel its a great competitor for the Zephyrus.
If you could get your hands on both and configure them with the ryzen 7 4800H & gtx 2060, it would make for a great video. Please take note to also opt for the 63wh battery option for the illegear so we can compare the battery life and feasibility as a daily driver for content creators & gamers alike.
I do have the laptop with me 😉 I posted about it on my community post which subscribers can see
@@TechRodent I see it, definitely will be waiting eagerly for that video 👍🏾
Turn off intel turbo boost and just use the core speeds the CPU wont pass 70 while gaming and getting over 100fps on high settings... Did you not put a barrier between the LM and board with acrylic conformal coating?
i am considering purchasing from Illegear, but im kinda iffy on the Liquid Metal option. based on this video , i suppose the answer is no then ?
They do it on a factory level, not by their own staff, and have the proper tooling and procedures they tell me.
It should be plenty safe if they're confident enough to role it out like that.
@@TechRodent Thanks dude, im not sure which model im going for yet, i quite like the affordability of the laguna SE (with 2070 super) but the design put of me off quite abit - honestly i think it looks like something from 2010. Not keen on the form factor of the raven series because i prefer smaller and more compact machines so Onyx and prodigy is at the top of the list for now. Purchasing with the intention of going overseas so I dont want liquid metal to crap down on me down the line because i can't trust myself to fix it on my own.... but im heading to KL next week to speak to the staff in person. We;ll see..
NOBODY....NOBODY uses LM WITHOUT FIRST protecting all their SMDs with a conformal coating....Watching you made me jump out of my skin! So when are you going to do the Thermal Grizzly Conductanaut ? REALLY wanting to see that compared to the Chinese 128 W/mk LM
Why don't you use nail polish (without acetone!) to protect the SMD parts around the DIEs?
You can also purchase professional stuff to prevent shortages that doesn't cost much.
It's what I use right now, but at the time of making the video, things were of course a little different, and I wanted to show what can happen if you're not careful like I was.
Not covering the sorounding smd parts is a big nono ;)
you should see first linus tech first... and how to do it...
just from watching the first minutes of the video i can allready tell you . 1 You have put to much liquid metal on the coper heatsink (you have there metal blobs there not suposed to be there ). 2. You have not applyed any protection what so ever to the CPU or GPU while applying the liquid metal ( thermal resistent duck tape or special thermall grizlly pollish looks like nail polish but its for covering the small SMD conductors on the CPU) .Allsaw you need to apply the same procedure on the heatsink and after that removing the duck tape so that you remain with a perfect die imprint on both the die and heatsink with a VERYY i cant stress this enough VERRYYYY thin layer of liquid metal . The Torque of the heatsink on the die is somwhere around 10-13 pounds so there is much preasure on it , you do not need more than 5 micromilimeters of liquid metal on both die and heatsink.
i opened my laptop recently, its nearly impossible working with Liquid metal on the cpu or gpu without mistakenly hitting the transistors on the sides, i knew it as soon as i saw how tiny the cpu is and exposed the transistors are ! you should never apply this crap without covering the transistors with 33+ electrical tape i believe or nail polish or maybe BOTH ! its a stupid thing to do and not worth the risk !...
You apply nail polish remover like acetone or actual nail polish?
people should at least put electrical tape around the die to avoid leakage, or put some non-conductive sealant like nail polish over the sensitive components
I still wish corsair or someone would make an aio for laptops. Its an untapped market and laptop cooling just sucks...
Kind of sucks there are so many different iterations of coolers it'd be hard to make a universal aio for laptops. Also, vacuum laptop coolers exist and are actually decent but they don't fit all laptops.
@@LuxuryLeet Yeah like i'd seriously pay for a good liquid aio if someone can make it. This is a service someone should offer until corsair or some big name makes them. You'd think some of the big companies like alienware and razer at the very least would offer this.
@@Noyjitat I remember seeing a Linus video of this 3rd party aio conversion kit from Alienware, you should look it up.
Great 👍 video, pray for me I just did conductonaut my 1070 to put a 1070 hopefully my won’t fried
If you're more careful than I was then I don't think you need to worry at all!
I put clear clear nail polish 💅 on surrounding smd
I have heard of this! I just have slight concerns as to high temperatures and acrylic, but it seems like a rather common solution!
Close save. Or do I mean, close shave?
It was a scary scary situation.
use caption tape
Hi, Im from Brazil, eu tenho muita vontade de aplicar metal líquido no meu notebook principal, porém tenho também medo de algo causar curto-circuito, eu tenho uma ideia, a seguinte pegar um termalpad do tamanho do processador e fazer um corte do tamanho do DIE e encaixar no processador, quando fechar o dissipador em cima do notebook, vai isolar e não deixar escapar, assim como fiz nesse video
czcams.com/video/KQlkscRuh-k/video.html
Estou testando ainda nesse notebook velho, para fins de estudo, e se for bem seguro, vou realizar no meu notebook gamer principal
You didn't protect around the die???????? you are supposed to seal around the die!
So what you’re saying is you don’t know how to apply liquid metal
Nah, I've never used liquid metal, cause I'm still sane.
Where's the fun in sanity?
hahaha
@Mr Charif a thin layer of nail polish should be better than a pretty thick electrical tape, that I feel is a worse thermal insulator
I have an HP zbook 15v5 G5. The machine is plainly AWFULLY engineered or woefully bad engineered on purpose or by an amateur accident, which in the case of a corporation the size of HP is balderdash.
The supposed workstation cant run anything above subpar performance because it reaches 95C in a matter of seconds and renders all its cpus capabilities useless. Already tried repasting, undervolting...nothing seems to work or even work slightly. Liquid Metal is my last hope for this piece of scam hardware....wish me luck boys n galz!
Zbook HP 15v5 G5 Xeon w2176m / it idles at 80-82C and reaches 95C exactly 1 second after you launch any heavy duty application, which is why i bought it in the first place.
man I cannot watch your vids bc of these comercials. knock it off and make your vids clean =)))
"Inexperience while applying metal" - for crying out loud ur not working on quantum physics, its just a small bit of metal applied to the chip Horrible video !!! Gave me chills what you did to that laptop!!! You dont deserve that laptop honestly
this is why im going to coat the smd components with clear nail polish, it will insulate them and i wont need to be hyper careful. plus for good measure ill be putting some electrical tape around the die.