@@AlcoholFreeRV Most heatloss is lacking air tightness (like around slideouts) Thumb rule is, you want to control where air goes in and out so flexible seals is king (can not do it on rv like on houses given they have a lot of flex). Luxury rv have inflating seals around them slideouts (kinda like an bike inner tube), the slidout slides out and then air is pumped into the tube making an tight seal around it. helps a lot with AC in summer too. Should be possible to engineer that into exiting builds (i do not have them slideouts because i build for -40C so i am allergic to anything that qualifies as big hole in the wall) Advantage of airtight walls is that moisture laden air can not leak into the wall and cause trouble. I seal my inner decking with paint, gfk laminate and aluminium tape. If it is possible to remove inner walls without destruction membrane and ductape alone can do a lot, insulation on the backwalls of cabinets backing outside walls can help prevent condensation, 10mm xps can do a lot already. If one does such things the first winter regular inspections are necessary to catch condensation before mold settles in. With air heating that is not an very big problem though, but inside of cabinets is someplace to have an eye on. I am always amazed how stupid rv are build in that regard, a few dollars of cheap plastic wrapping in the right spots would go a long way.
This was interesting! Thank you for doing this video. I have the same issues with my bunk room being cold in my Grand Design Reflection 323BHS.
I'm glad you found it interesting. Later on I'll have a vid on how I address the cold room.
@@AlcoholFreeRV Excellent, I look forward to it!
Did you get a chance to measure from the outside to see where heat was being lost out of the trailer ? i need to see about trying this idea . Thanks
I didn't even think of it, but it's definitely a good idea. My thinking was that it would be the same spots?
@@AlcoholFreeRV Most heatloss is lacking air tightness (like around slideouts) Thumb rule is, you want to control where air goes in and out so flexible seals is king (can not do it on rv like on houses given they have a lot of flex).
Luxury rv have inflating seals around them slideouts (kinda like an bike inner tube), the slidout slides out and then air is pumped into the tube making an tight seal around it. helps a lot with AC in summer too.
Should be possible to engineer that into exiting builds (i do not have them slideouts because i build for -40C so i am allergic to anything that qualifies as big hole in the wall)
Advantage of airtight walls is that moisture laden air can not leak into the wall and cause trouble.
I seal my inner decking with paint, gfk laminate and aluminium tape.
If it is possible to remove inner walls without destruction membrane and ductape alone can do a lot, insulation on the backwalls of cabinets backing outside walls can help prevent condensation, 10mm xps can do a lot already.
If one does such things the first winter regular inspections are necessary to catch condensation before mold settles in.
With air heating that is not an very big problem though, but inside of cabinets is someplace to have an eye on.
I am always amazed how stupid rv are build in that regard, a few dollars of cheap plastic wrapping in the right spots would go a long way.
What did you set your emmisivity to