How to Cut and Install Crown Moulding
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- čas přidán 11. 03. 2021
- While renovating the front foyer to my house, I decided that I would film the installation of the crown moulding. So on this week's show, I will take you through an easy method of measuring, cutting and installing crown moulding in your home. I hope that you find the video to be informative and useful.
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As always, I want to thank you so much for stopping by the channel and taking the time to tune in to the show. It is very much appreciated.
Wow, this was just what I needed! I saw some other more advanced videos, but I'd only call them advanced b/c they didn't do a good job of demonstrating or explaining what they were talking about. So if you were an advanced DIYer or a pro, it made sense. Thank you for explaining crown stops. Thank you for the great simple rules - upside down (not sure about the backwards part), and inside corner - top long, outside corner - bottom long. I'd love to know why, but for now, I'm happy to follow the right steps. Added thanks to all the great comments - I, too, created a lot of sawdust, chopped up a lot of cove moulding, and turned the air blue not knowing the right method. I also wondered about marking the crown stop distance on the wall, but a commenter made sense that the "spring angle" is 45-degrees, so the crown stop distance will be the same on the wall or on the ceiling. Thank you again, Ken, and thanks to all the great comments!
I'm glad that you found this video to be helpful Larry. Good luck on your installation. Thank you for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your kind words. I truly appreciate it.
The best tutorial for the average guy I have ever seen for measuring cutting and installing crown moulding. Well done Ken and thanks
Harleymike/chicago
Thanks for the kind words Mike. That was the goal. To produce a video to help the average handy man achieve what they thought was a difficult project by presenting the most simple solution possible to the installation. Glad to hear that I succeeded in that. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you so much for this easy explanation. Why does everyone else make things more complicated than they need to be. 👍👍👍 great demonstration
There are definitely more technical and complicated ways to do this but this is the simplest way for the average home owner to install crown. Thanks for tuning in.
Kenny, another great video. Yes, back in the 70's when I had to install some crown moulding , I chopped up a piece of 16 foot moulding into little pieces trying to figure out how to make the cuts. I finally gave up in frustration. I had a carpenter friend come over to show me how to do it. He said, "always remember Upside down and Backwards". Since then, I've installed a lot crown mouldings, but I would never have figured it out with out with out being taught.
I'm glad that you finally figured it out. There are several different ways to cut crown, but this one is by far the most simple and straight forward. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to chime in with your story. It's very much appreciated.
Kenny, excellent tutorial on crown molding. One of those valuable pieces of knowledge that are once learned never forgotten. Nice tutorial.
Glad that you liked it Paul. While it is not the only method to cut and install crown moulding, it is by far, the easiest and most simple method. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I can't imagine installing crown & NOT needing caulk. Like you say, that's what it's for!
Great tutorial. Much appreciated. 👍👍
There are some folks that have the special measuring tools and can get every mitre to fit perfectly. There are others that can cope the ends and get a perfect fit. But the general handyman that wants to install his own crown in his house, caulking to fill in the slightly mismatched edges is just fine. Good luck on your installation and thanks for tuning in.
Thanks Kenny. Very interesting and informative. It is 40 years since I had to put some up for the first and only time. I wish I knew this info then.
Believe me the air was blue that day with a LOT of wastage. LOL.
This is just a simple way of doing it Peter. I normally use a compound mitre saw with a different bevel and mitre but it can get complicated. This method was perfect for a small foyer. I'm glad that you liked the show. Thanks for tuning in.
Nicely done. Just finished my first small room with crown and wife is pleased, therefore the main hallway is now on my todo list but now I feel I can do it too. 👍 21:42
I'm glad that you were able to successfully install your crown molding and that the show was useful to you Steven. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to post your comment. It's appreciated.
Oh! And that video was perfect for someone that has never cut crown before. I was also taught how to cope molding so it overlaps in the corners. Done carefully with a coping saw and there are no gaps. That takes a very steady hand. We had to practice that over and over again in carpentry class. I doubt very much I can still do it lol. Been way too many years lol.
If it makes you feel any better, I've never been able to cope crown moulding. I've done plenty of compound angles to install it and even measured the angle of the wall to figure out the compound mitres to make a perfect fit (don't ask me to list the calculation. It's brutal) but I've never coped the joint. Maybe one day, I will give that a try. Thanks again for tuning in to the show.
Outstanding tutorial! Thanks for sharing, Kenny.
You're very welcome. I'm glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great video, i installed a fair amount of this stuff over the years and got into coping mouldings that had minimal detail .
Coping the corners is an art form in itself and that would be the preferred method for solid wood moulding. For painted MDF moulding, this method works just fine. Good for you for doing the coping method though. I have to say that I never really mastered that one. Thanks for tuning in Joseph and chiming in with your experience. It's very much appreciated.
thank you sir
You're very welcome Tommy. Thanks for tuning in
Couple things Kenny. 2 15/16" you measured on miter saw bed its actually distance on the ceiling. iIf crown is perfectly 45* spring angle it does not matter. Another trick to have miter closed up is, dont nail ends of crown till you put another piece on other wall. Moving it slightly up or down will keep mitre tight. We talk 1/16" or so. No one ever will notice that. I am cabinet guy, always cutting and installing prefinished mouldings. There is no way I could use any dap.
There will always be adjustments that can be made to the installation Marcelo. Thanks for chiming in with your suggestions. This is definitely not the only way of cutting and installing crown moulding, but for someone who wants to try it and is worried about messing it up, this is definitely the easiest and most foolproof way. Thanks again for tuning in and for chiming in with your experience. It's appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings TV
@@chuckmitchell8234 Are you saying that I should be on television? LOL.
12:05 and 12:27: Marcelo is right; this is actually critical to getting a tight inside corner. **!!The 2-15/16” measurement taken at **12:05** is the wall to ceiling distance!!** Just look at the saw set-up: with the crown upside down, down the fence is the wall and the table is the ceiling. Now, it won’t matter if you have crown with 45 degree spring angle as is the case in this video (this is an artifact of the geometry of a 45-45-90 triangle), but not all crown has a 45 degree spring angle, nor should all crown be installed at 45 degrees. If you follow Kenny’s advice without have a 45 spring angle, you will be disappointed and frustrated with your inside corner fit up. Besides that, this is a great video. Thank you!
@@QuinnConner 👍👍👍
The best video..thank you Sr.
I'm glad that you found it useful and that you liked it Nestor. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Your saw is designed for the dewalt crown stops. They make your life a lot easier and accurate.
You may be right on this but there are some that don't have that ability and that video is for those people. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your opinion.
Great work
Glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Awesome video Sr
Glad that you liked it Juanillo. Thanks for tuning in.
Thanks
You're very welcome. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Yup! That is the way I learned it, back when I was 18. Another thing I learned was...use the same tape measure through the whole project. If one person uses a different tape than their coworker, then the measurements probably won''t be the same. A flat tape doesn't read the same as a 1/2 inch wide curled tape and that one won't read the same as a 3/4 inch curled tape. The curl in the tapes is what makes the difference, and sometimes the hook on the end too. To test all you have to do is hook them on the end of a framing square, stretch them out beside each other to about the 2 foot mark on the square. Then read the two tapes next to each other (not the 2 foot mark on the square itself). You will see a slight difference that can and I have seen bad cuts created. I used to win a lot of $5 bills at work on that bet lol! To the point a lot of my coworkers would not bet anything against me lol.
That's some good advice on using the same tape measure Michael. Thanks for chiming in with that. Also, thanks for the story about winning the $5. I will be sure never to bet against you when it comes to tape measures and framing squares. LOL. Thanks for tuning in
Maybe it'd be good to mark the tapes that are incorrect and label them as reference only, because they should be either correct or incorrect, to some tolerance.
I'd guess the incorrect ones are because the hook got elongated, and will then read short of the mark.
It's probably safest to always read it with the hook pushed in for an inside measurement like when measuring wall to wall if possible, though it's harder to do at the saw.
ok nice
Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi Kenny:
For an outside corner, do you add any extra wall length to accomodate for the actual outside corner irregularity? Most outside corners don't come to an exact 45 degree. They can be somewhat rounded.
Very good explination. Thank you.
Chuck
That would depend on the corner itself Chuck. The measurement for the outside corners is taken from the adjacent wall of the corner. In other words, if you corner is curved, you would take the measurement from the flat surface of the adjacent wall, not the curved corner. But you could always play it safe and add another 3/16" just to cover your butt. If it ends up a little too long, you can always trim it without wasting too much moulding. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show Chuck.
Kenny, have you ever tried to use the compound feature on your miter saw to cut crown? Laying it flat and cutting compound angles. I have always used your method, but a professional carpenter handled a trim job for me and he amazed me whit the compound miter saw. Your explanation was excellent.
Its just quicker cutting it upside dow. However when end of crown needs to be wrapped around corner you need to use compound set up. Also some huge crowns will not fit on miter saw to cut them vertically
I've done the compound mitre cut many times. The only problem with it, is that if you don't do it every day or often enough, it can become quite confusing and it is easy to end up with a lot of scrap. I did the entire upper floor of my parent's house using the compound mitre method. The method I demonstrated today is quite possibly the easiest method there is....hence why it's here on the show. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words.
While I agree with you that some crown moulding will not fit on the saw with this method, I have to disagree that an outside corner has to be cut with compound mitres. It can just be cut the other way around to make the mitre fit in the opposite direction. Either way, this is far from the only way to cut crown moulding Marcelo and there are plenty of methods that work just as well. This one is just the most simple. Thanks for tuning in .
Ken, you made it seem less difficult.
It's not a difficult process Craig and this is quite possibly the most simple method of cutting and installing crown moulding. Anyone can do it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Is the Alex Flex caulking used for the molding above and below, where it meets the ceiling and wall, or only for the miter joint?
Does the ceiling, wall, and molding all need to be the same color if it needs to painted after installation?
The caulking is paintable so if you have gaps between your moulding and your wall due to uneven walls, you can use the caulk for that as well. The moulding doesn't need to be the same colour but if you are painting it, you might want to prime it first to avoid the colours affecting the final paint job. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings the ceiling and molding in my case will both be white, so it should be good.
The wall is different so I may run a continuous bead on the bottom edge if needed.
@@dubmob151 Sounds like that should work just fine for you.
0.2 I just cut my insides at 44 and outside at 46 perfect every time
Glad that you have it figured out. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your methods.
Hi Ken, I was wondering if you could give a basic talk about making a Chess board with a storage drawer, the last time I made a Chess board was 45 years ago and it never came out correctly, thank you I really do like your channel, ALW
I have an interesting style of chess board coming up on the show at the end of April. I'm not sure if it is something that will interest you but you might want to check it out. The most important thing to remember about a chess board is that all of your pieces have to have perfectly square corners so that everything fits together perfectly. I may just do another board of the style you are asking for a little later on the show. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in Alan and for the show suggestion. It's very much appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings HI Ken, I want to thank you for taking time to replying to me
@@alanwasserman8176 You're very welcome Alan. I do my best to reply to all my viewers who take the time to leave a comment.
if you would use double sided tape and a long board in place of the line it would be easier to hold and cut the molding.
I fully agree Karl. That's a great suggestion. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with the idea. it's very much appreciated.
If there's a concern you have two tape measures that don't match each other, it probably should be confirmed with the one being used that it's correct with the hook being used for an inside and outside measurement. If the tape measure got abused by letting it snap back the inside and outside measurements might no longer match, and throw off all the cuts.
Too many people let their tape measures snap back into the casing and it drives me crazy. The play in the end hook is there for a reason and it is a calculated play. By snapping the blade into the case and allowing the hook to come in contact with the case while the tape is quickly moving, will alter this play and destroy any accuracy you have in the tape measure. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your thoughts. It's appreciated.
To cope or to caulk? that is the question
I think it all depends on your skill set. For those who are able to cope and get perfectly fitting joints, by all means that is the way you should do it. This video if more for those who don't have that skill set but still want to be handy and useful at improving their homes. The choice between coping and caulking is completely up to the individual home owner at that point. Thank for tuning in and for chiming in to the conversation.
Never seen nobody instructing in a video who don't talk about inside. This is not just for entertainment
Not sure if this is good or bad but thanks for tuning in to the show.