Bend the gasket away from the lip as you go and it will open up to go over the lip. Rubber mallet to seat it on as you go. Then you know it's as long as you need it to be before you trim it to length. Leave it a 1/4 inch or so long, then rubber cement the ends together. Then start with the wider bottom edge of the glass in the seal channel so you can push it down as you go instead of trying to hold it up. It would also be a lot easier to get the opening sized just by holding the glass in the opening and make sure you have a uniform gap all the way around it instead of dealing with the gasket first. But hey, it's a learning process. If you get it done in the end, that's what matters.
😅I take it that that was an F-Bomb going off when that COULD have been actual glass nose-diving to the floor? That was an awesome piece of editing! Thanks, again, Levi. This was another quality learning experience.
The bomb cut in was hilarious! Good job with the install - I've seen one weatherstrip supplier recommend foaming glass cleaner to make the install easier. It slicks up the surface nicely and will dry on its own.
HAHA. I'm glad I'm not the only one who thought it was hilarious and I was cutting it into the video in the middle of the night a little delusional from the long hours at my desk. This was my first experience doing anything like this so i'm all ears on info for different methods. -cameraman
Yeah, I'm not so sure about that wax in the seal. I hope it doesn't cause the glass to slide around. The best thing about using glass cleaner or soapy water is that it dries out and leaves a good rubber to glass contact in the seal.
Great video, one suggestion though would be to put your rubber seam at the bottom of the glass, not the top. Lot less chance of water getting in the cab...
I agree, also would it be smart to put the gasket seam at the bottom center and the locking bead at the top so that both seams aren't in the same spot?
I'd go the other way with the gap at the top, but rubber cement the ends of the gasket together after you trim it to length. And then run the locking strip with the gap at the bottom. Either way, you want to put the gaps opposite to each other.
@@BrianSmart1959 See? A little smarter, because then both of the ends of each aren't in the same point, making it harder for a potential leak to actually penetrate the seal. Good shit, Man!
I thought that was pretty clever as well. It's a bit more time involved but I think most of us have more time than money laying around for our projects.
Great job Levi! I've never done this but my only suggestion would be to hold the template up to the window opening prior to starting the first temporary installation. It might show some possible issues ahead of time.
Interesting as I have not seen a “Lock-Bead” window gasket, only the one piece groove that requires a rope. I have used 14 AWG wire before but alway WD-40. It works to make rubber hoses slick or window channels slide in nice. The bent “S” shaped tool is exactly what SnapOn sells for a hose removable tool. They have a standard length and extra long. At a dealership we had pickups to install rear sliding windows and we found they may not fit. We had a 1” dowel of wood cut with groove on opposite sides the fit the pinch weld and glass or slide on the other with a 5mm gap between the two. Then used a 5mm standard across the top to check fitment. The bottom corners where always tight and the side. We used a DA sander on the aluminum frame then installed the rubber on the window first. With a crossed rope and pull handle it made it a slider easy to install as you can reach thru. My 1967 C10 truck is this way and extra attention is needed at top corners to go around without tearing the rubbers. Stainless Steel trim has to be installed first if this choice is required. Tech Tip; 3M P/N 08509 ($10 or less for 10 oz tube) Bedding and Glazing compound, works great and is used to eliminate water leaks. If you cut a very small hole in the caulking gun tube, place a sharp bend of brake line inside the nozzle end. Using electrical tape over the bottom plastic nozzle over the pipe that is flattened at the end, terminate the tape here with a dab of black weatherstrip adhesive. This will direct this non-hardening black pliable product between the painted surface and rubber. It wipes off with a rag but helps if a second person holds the rubber back working slowly across the top down both sides. It is not “normally” needed across the bottom even as this is a high pressure area at road speeds. The 67-72 rain gutter interiors with installation of this product. If shaved or not used, apply straight from caulking tube. I had an extra stall next to my five that the glass guy would use. He shared this tip on an old Pontiac Chief sedan he worked on! DK, retired ASE master tech.
WOW, excellent video and info, wish I had watched 10 years ago. now my glass is too big all around on a chopped cab? Anyone just adhere the glass onto the lip and trim out?
I would like an EXACT measurement on how much bigger the hole was than the window itself. I assume it is the thickness of the inner section of the gasket, however It would be nice to know for instance if the window was exactly 1/4 inch smaller on every side than the hole. Anybody??
Hey man glad to see you here! I am down 70lbs since I left KC's. I'm a starving artist what can I say haha, all joking aside I had some health problems and ended up in the hospital at the end of 2019 right after SEMA with liver failure. It was due to blockage of the bile ducts, anyways I had surgery and ever since I've just been focused on my health as much as possible. I appreciate you asking and happy your tuning in. I'm just getting started with Levi and hope to bring you weekly videos from his shop. He's got some cool stuff going on and i'm stoked for this GMC build.
Hi Eric, sorry to hear about your health issue. Glad you’re doing better and back to filming. I’m saving all these c10 videos so I can start on mine. I been watching Hammerfab for a while now him and his team members does awesome work! Have you did any more work on your car?
Bend the gasket away from the lip as you go and it will open up to go over the lip. Rubber mallet to seat it on as you go. Then you know it's as long as you need it to be before you trim it to length. Leave it a 1/4 inch or so long, then rubber cement the ends together. Then start with the wider bottom edge of the glass in the seal channel so you can push it down as you go instead of trying to hold it up. It would also be a lot easier to get the opening sized just by holding the glass in the opening and make sure you have a uniform gap all the way around it instead of dealing with the gasket first. But hey, it's a learning process. If you get it done in the end, that's what matters.
😅I take it that that was an F-Bomb going off when that COULD have been actual glass nose-diving to the floor? That was an awesome piece of editing! Thanks, again, Levi. This was another quality learning experience.
The bomb cut in was hilarious! Good job with the install - I've seen one weatherstrip supplier recommend foaming glass cleaner to make the install easier. It slicks up the surface nicely and will dry on its own.
HAHA. I'm glad I'm not the only one who thought it was hilarious and I was cutting it into the video in the middle of the night a little delusional from the long hours at my desk. This was my first experience doing anything like this so i'm all ears on info for different methods. -cameraman
Yeah, I'm not so sure about that wax in the seal. I hope it doesn't cause the glass to slide around. The best thing about using glass cleaner or soapy water is that it dries out and leaves a good rubber to glass contact in the seal.
Great video, one suggestion though would be to put your rubber seam at the bottom of the glass, not the top. Lot less chance of water getting in the cab...
I agree, also would it be smart to put the gasket seam at the bottom center and the locking bead at the top so that both seams aren't in the same spot?
I'd go the other way with the gap at the top, but rubber cement the ends of the gasket together after you trim it to length. And then run the locking strip with the gap at the bottom. Either way, you want to put the gaps opposite to each other.
@@BrianSmart1959 See? A little smarter, because then both of the ends of each aren't in the same point, making it harder for a potential leak to actually penetrate the seal. Good shit, Man!
The joint goes on the bottom
Thank you so much for putting out these videos. Very helpful.
Glad you found them helpful. Levi is a good teacher and we will work on putting out more informative videos as this build goes along. -cameraman
It is a good idea to use a template to size up the opening, well done !
I thought that was pretty clever as well. It's a bit more time involved but I think most of us have more time than money laying around for our projects.
Great job Levi! I've never done this but my only suggestion would be to hold the template up to the window opening prior to starting the first temporary installation. It might show some possible issues ahead of time.
Interesting as I have not seen a “Lock-Bead” window gasket, only the one piece groove that requires a rope. I have used 14 AWG wire before but alway WD-40. It works to make rubber hoses slick or window channels slide in nice. The bent “S” shaped tool is exactly what SnapOn sells for a hose removable tool. They have a standard length and extra long.
At a dealership we had pickups to install rear sliding windows and we found they may not fit. We had a 1” dowel of wood cut with groove on opposite sides the fit the pinch weld and glass or slide on the other with a 5mm gap between the two. Then used a 5mm standard across the top to check fitment. The bottom corners where always tight and the side. We used a DA sander on the aluminum frame then installed the rubber on the window first. With a crossed rope and pull handle it made it a slider easy to install as you can reach thru.
My 1967 C10 truck is this way and extra attention is needed at top corners to go around without tearing the rubbers. Stainless Steel trim has to be installed first if this choice is required.
Tech Tip; 3M P/N 08509 ($10 or less for 10 oz tube) Bedding and Glazing compound, works great and is used to eliminate water leaks. If you cut a very small hole in the caulking gun tube, place a sharp bend of brake line inside the nozzle end. Using electrical tape over the bottom plastic nozzle over the pipe that is flattened at the end, terminate the tape here with a dab of black weatherstrip adhesive. This will direct this non-hardening black pliable product between the painted surface and rubber. It wipes off with a rag but helps if a second person holds the rubber back working slowly across the top down both sides. It is not “normally” needed across the bottom even as this is a high pressure area at road speeds. The 67-72 rain gutter interiors with installation of this product. If shaved or not used, apply straight from caulking tube. I had an extra stall next to my five that the glass guy would use. He shared this tip on an old Pontiac Chief sedan he worked on!
DK, retired ASE master tech.
I’m building a couple similar builds on my channel, great video! Keep up the good work!
Looks good!
Excellent.........True Professional !
Great videos! These have been a huge help for my conversion. Do you happen to remember the final thickness on the bottom flange after final trimming?
WOW, excellent video and info, wish I had watched 10 years ago. now my glass is too big all around on a chopped cab? Anyone just adhere the glass onto the lip and trim out?
Idk how he just pushed that wood in that seal but I can promise ya it does not go on that easy!
I would like an EXACT measurement on how much bigger the hole was than the window itself. I assume it is the thickness of the inner section of the gasket, however It would be nice to know for instance if the window was exactly 1/4 inch smaller on every side than the hole. Anybody??
I'd like to know that also. I have a chopped cab.
Man Eric has lost some weight. I haven’t seen him since he was filming KC’s videos! How’s it going Eric?
Hey man glad to see you here! I am down 70lbs since I left KC's. I'm a starving artist what can I say haha, all joking aside I had some health problems and ended up in the hospital at the end of 2019 right after SEMA with liver failure. It was due to blockage of the bile ducts, anyways I had surgery and ever since I've just been focused on my health as much as possible. I appreciate you asking and happy your tuning in. I'm just getting started with Levi and hope to bring you weekly videos from his shop. He's got some cool stuff going on and i'm stoked for this GMC build.
Hi Eric, sorry to hear about your health issue. Glad you’re doing better and back to filming. I’m saving all these c10 videos so I can start on mine. I been watching Hammerfab for a while now him and his team members does awesome work! Have you did any more work on your car?
What glass part number you used?
How much would it cost for you guys to do this?
Curious how much does this costs.
The metal part? The glass? The gasket? The install? The faux Tina?