Overhaul kit (4x4) amzn.to/3Su7jSf Overhaul kit (4x2) amzn.to/3HqrNVA I'm not a 5R expert, but here is disassembly of a 5r44 from a 2004 Ranger pickup!
I can't believe this video has happened to come out while I have been sitting with a 5R44E transmission I've been debating on rebuilding. Thanks for posting this video and I think it may give me the confidence to give it a try.
I love these videos, and they do a great job. I only have one small pet peeve that they all seem to do/say. While describing what they're doing and how to get it apart they all seem to call the fasteners by their SOCKET size not their actual size. Example: "take these four 10mm bolts off" They are not 10mm bolts they are 6mm with a 10mm socket size. Still love the video, great job and narration.
Hi, thanks for watching and I'm glad you liked the video! I refer to each bolt by it's head size to quickly get the point across what socket you'll need. Even if it's not accurate, in my opinion it'll confuse people if I were to say (example) this is a 6 milimeter bolt with a 13mm head. Thanks for pointing out my error, though! I may say "13mm head" from now on.
I have a question about my 2WD 2011 Ford Ranger W/Automatic Transmission. It was supposed have been replaced about 2 1/2 years ago and was working fine until last year when a problem started occurring. when leaving to go somewhere the transmission would go into drive fine, however after going a short distance of a few blocks or less and when stopping at a stoplight, when I go to accelerate from the stop the transmission lose drive gear, after stopping and shifting into park, reverse or just bumping the accelerator and returning to idle it eventually will engage again and go on shifting normally from then on. The problem was intermittent and did not occur every time. A couple times it did continue to slip. However it typically would return to normal operation without further problems. I found the problem seemed to be less frequent during the hot Phoenix summer. I checked the fluid level and it was ok. I found more increasingly lately I would lose drive when entering the freeway during acceleration, but would eventually engage. The problem has became very frequent when leaving for the past few months but typically goes away after the initial loss of drive which will "Engage' after a few seconds or longer and no longer slip or act up and operate normally. Yesterday while driving close by after and during rain and cooler temps that Drive completely failed after stopping a couple places a block away and then refueling. Reverse also would not engage completely and slipped, but D1 and D2 worked ok and I did make it home. I tried several times to go and try it in Drive and Reverse, and drove around the mobile home park to see if things would return to normal, but it continues to slip badly. It did flash the O/D light during these tests which from my research indicated slippage from the "Speed Sensor" after 3 attempts. I tried adding additional fluid but the problem continued. Tonight I let it run idling in park for about 20 minutes. When I tried it again it seemed to work as normal without slippage, however I did not take it out on the street, only at slower speed around the park where it did shift from 1st to 2nd fine and had no apparent slippage. Last year I did remove the equivalent of a bottle of Lucus Transmission Treatment worth of transmission fluid drawn from the Dipstick Tube, and added the Lucus Treatment hoping to resolve the issues, which did seem to help, but may have been due to operating at hotter temps during the summer. Do you have any suggestions? Would a fluid & filter change be advised? I would guess I have about 30K miles on the "Replaced Transmission" and everything operated normal for over a year until the problems stated occurring. The fluid I removed looked good, not dark or contaminated. Do these symptoms indicate a possible problem with transmission electronic controls/computer module or shift solenoids, or the "Flow Valve" in the Pump or "End Plugs" in the Valve Body? Update: Today I drove the truck around running errands and it worked fine without any warmup period, no slipping. Another symptom I have been noticing for awhile is a slight "Delay" before gear engagement when shifting into drive or reverse. I have also seen a video related to a bad "Sprag" causing forward and reverse failure, but this seemed like a hard failure. Is it possible that the "Sprag" moves slightly when first driving causing these symptoms, but relocates back into position and starts working normally, or does these symptoms indicate the problems with the "Flow Valve" or "End Plugs"?
Im running this exact transmission in my 07 Ranger and I dont want to buy a second "used" unit id rather go in and fix it for cheap. My question is if my only issue is as follows, where would you go looking... When cruising highway in over drive, going up a grade when the transmission goes to downshift into 4th it just revs out into neutral, let off the gas and wait for the revs to fall and then it finds 4th gear. It only does it cold, wont do it when warm.
Hello sir, sorry if its out of topic. I am from the Philippines. May i ask if the focus 2.0 engine, when u remove the dip stick while engine is running, is it normal that the oil is splashing out? All of the 2013-2015 2.0 focus here in our country, it does splash oil when i remove the dip stick. Is it the same there in your country? Thank you
Wow! Thank you very much for your swift reply! Now am sure i have a supperb engine! Its 1:30AM here and i am binge watching your vids. 😂Learned a lot! Thank you very much for your help! 💪💪
Hey Ben, I have a 2016 Ford Focus Titanium and I love your transmission videos.🙂 I've watched about every one in your play list. But I am changing my trans out and I called Ford to order the 6 13mm nuts that you say in your video NOT to reuse for the flex plate. That you have to buy them new. Well, i think i'm going to have to reuse mine and maybe torque them down a little tighter if need be. But dude.... I WILL NOT pay $700.00 for 6 13mm drive nuts. 😵😵😵 This is what Ford tells me it will cost me for all 6 of them. Anyone that would pay that much for a nut is ummmm crazy. I mean i have money, but not that much. They quoted me $120.00 for each clutch motor. That i can see paying for. But not $700.00 for 6 nuts. I mean i thought Pick Your Part charged a lot for bolts and nuts.👎 So question for you. Do i really need to replace them? My trans has never been out of the car yet so they would only be used a second time after this job. Let me know please. Thanks
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Hey Ben, thanks for the reply. Yeah he called me today and told me he made a mistake and was looking at the wrong nut/bolt. He said list is $8.75 each and my cost with my discount is $3.15 each. I said man that is more like it. So yeah i got this straighted out. Thanks again for all your great help. Can you send me a link to your video on how to change the front seals? I couldn't find it in your play list. Thanks.
Overhaul kit (4x4): amzn.to/3Su7jSf
Overhaul kit (4x2): amzn.to/3HqrNVA
Snap Ring Pliers: amzn.to/3SbGPmS
The Bob Ross of automotive repairs.
I can't believe this video has happened to come out while I have been sitting with a 5R44E transmission I've been debating on rebuilding. Thanks for posting this video and I think it may give me the confidence to give it a try.
Cool! You're welcome
I just rebuilt one of those a year ago.
Nice!
I love these videos, and they do a great job.
I only have one small pet peeve that they all seem to do/say.
While describing what they're doing and how to get it apart they all seem to call the fasteners by their SOCKET size not their actual size.
Example: "take these four 10mm bolts off"
They are not 10mm bolts they are 6mm with a 10mm socket size.
Still love the video, great job and narration.
Hi, thanks for watching and I'm glad you liked the video! I refer to each bolt by it's head size to quickly get the point across what socket you'll need. Even if it's not accurate, in my opinion it'll confuse people if I were to say (example) this is a 6 milimeter bolt with a 13mm head. Thanks for pointing out my error, though! I may say "13mm head" from now on.
I have a question about my 2WD 2011 Ford Ranger W/Automatic Transmission. It was supposed have been replaced about 2 1/2 years ago and was working fine until last year when a problem started occurring. when leaving to go somewhere the transmission would go into drive fine, however after going a short distance of a few blocks or less and when stopping at a stoplight, when I go to accelerate from the stop the transmission lose drive gear, after stopping and shifting into park, reverse or just bumping the accelerator and returning to idle it eventually will engage again and go on shifting normally from then on. The problem was intermittent and did not occur every time. A couple times it did continue to slip. However it typically would return to normal operation without further problems. I found the problem seemed to be less frequent during the hot Phoenix summer. I checked the fluid level and it was ok. I found more increasingly lately I would lose drive when entering the freeway during acceleration, but would eventually engage. The problem has became very frequent when leaving for the past few months but typically goes away after the initial loss of drive which will "Engage' after a few seconds or longer and no longer slip or act up and operate normally.
Yesterday while driving close by after and during rain and cooler temps that Drive completely failed after stopping a couple places a block away and then refueling. Reverse also would not engage completely and slipped, but D1 and D2 worked ok and I did make it home. I tried several times to go and try it in Drive and Reverse, and drove around the mobile home park to see if things would return to normal, but it continues to slip badly. It did flash the O/D light during these tests which from my research indicated slippage from the "Speed Sensor" after 3 attempts.
I tried adding additional fluid but the problem continued. Tonight I let it run idling in park for about 20 minutes. When I tried it again it seemed to work as normal without slippage, however I did not take it out on the street, only at slower speed around the park where it did shift from 1st to 2nd fine and had no apparent slippage. Last year I did remove the equivalent of a bottle of Lucus Transmission Treatment worth of transmission fluid drawn from the Dipstick Tube, and added the Lucus Treatment hoping to resolve the issues, which did seem to help, but may have been due to operating at hotter temps during the summer.
Do you have any suggestions? Would a fluid & filter change be advised? I would guess I have about 30K miles on the "Replaced Transmission" and everything operated normal for over a year until the problems stated occurring. The fluid I removed looked good, not dark or contaminated. Do these symptoms indicate a possible problem with transmission electronic controls/computer module or shift solenoids, or the "Flow Valve" in the Pump or "End Plugs" in the Valve Body?
Update: Today I drove the truck around running errands and it worked fine without any warmup period, no slipping. Another symptom I have been noticing for awhile is a slight "Delay" before gear engagement when shifting into drive or reverse.
I have also seen a video related to a bad "Sprag" causing forward and reverse failure, but this seemed like a hard failure. Is it possible that the "Sprag" moves slightly when first driving causing these symptoms, but relocates back into position and starts working normally, or does these symptoms indicate the problems with the "Flow Valve" or "End Plugs"?
Im running this exact transmission in my 07 Ranger and I dont want to buy a second "used" unit id rather go in and fix it for cheap.
My question is if my only issue is as follows, where would you go looking...
When cruising highway in over drive, going up a grade when the transmission goes to downshift into 4th it just revs out into neutral, let off the gas and wait for the revs to fall and then it finds 4th gear. It only does it cold, wont do it when warm.
Great videos…that could be better with a tripod!
Noted. Thanks!
Hello sir, sorry if its out of topic. I am from the Philippines.
May i ask if the focus 2.0 engine, when u remove the dip stick while engine is running, is it normal that the oil is splashing out? All of the 2013-2015 2.0 focus here in our country, it does splash oil when i remove the dip stick. Is it the same there in your country? Thank you
Hi, it's normal. These engines all have crankcase pressure that sprays mist out when the dipstick or oil cap is off when running
Wow! Thank you very much for your swift reply! Now am sure i have a supperb engine! Its 1:30AM here and i am binge watching your vids. 😂Learned a lot! Thank you very much for your help! 💪💪
@@Papeebords you're welcome and thanks a lot for watching !
Hey Ben, I have a 2016 Ford Focus Titanium and I love your transmission videos.🙂 I've watched about every one in your play list. But I am changing my trans out and I called Ford to order the 6 13mm nuts that you say in your video NOT to reuse for the flex plate. That you have to buy them new. Well, i think i'm going to have to reuse mine and maybe torque them down a little tighter if need be. But dude.... I WILL NOT pay $700.00 for 6 13mm drive nuts. 😵😵😵 This is what Ford tells me it will cost me for all 6 of them. Anyone that would pay that much for a nut is ummmm crazy. I mean i have money, but not that much. They quoted me $120.00 for each clutch motor. That i can see paying for. But not $700.00 for 6 nuts. I mean i thought Pick Your Part charged a lot for bolts and nuts.👎 So question for you. Do i really need to replace them? My trans has never been out of the car yet so they would only be used a second time after this job. Let me know please. Thanks
Something's wrong with that! Ask them for an EV6Z-7052-C Seal kit. It's less than $50 and has the nuts. You can re-use them if you'd like though.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Hey Ben, thanks for the reply. Yeah he called me today and told me he made a mistake and was looking at the wrong nut/bolt. He said list is $8.75 each and my cost with my discount is $3.15 each. I said man that is more like it. So yeah i got this straighted out. Thanks again for all your great help. Can you send me a link to your video on how to change the front seals? I couldn't find it in your play list. Thanks.
@@emojim7136 czcams.com/video/8o4pqLBt4Pg/video.html
Thanks!