Creality Ender 3 / How To Level Your X Axis
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- čas přidán 13. 07. 2018
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3615 Grandview Drive
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USA How To Level Your X Axis. Today i will show you guys how to level your x axis. I will be going over two ways thats you can do this.
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thank you so much....I've been battling my x axis shift and this is the first video/tutorial that really breaks down how to adjust the x axis......you are definitely a huge contribution to the the 3d printing community.
You saved my ender 3 I was bashing my head into a wall trying to fix it. THANK YOU!
Happy to Help!
I was told in other tutorials "specifically for the ender 3 v2" that the wheels should be somewhat loose, so it doesn't cause the wheels to wear out due to unnecessary stress. Which I thought was weird, because otherwise the right hand side would essentially be a cantilever without sufficient, force keeping it entirely straight. I'll give this a try, as it makes sense that you want them to have good contact with the rail to maintain it's position.
Same. I thightend the rightside and it fixed my problem
Damn i feel like an idiot... THIS is how it works..., i didn't knew that the middle wheel can be adjusted.... i thought the Frame had an issue -.-' Thanks a lot.
It's ok. we're all idiots.
Definitely worked mate, printers been doing a flawless job aside from a little lopsidedness. The first fix involving just the loosening and tightening to let it settle naturally worked like a charm. A little surprised this was ACTUALLY a five minute job for once. Thank you very much. Once it falls out of alignment, I'll be back!
Thank you SO much. I've been having a ton of issues due to an unlevel X-axis and now it's all resolved. Thanks for the video, all was explained really well.
You're welcome!
Crazy this isn't something you do out of the box. Fixed me up great. Thanks!
Hiya San, a really big thank you for this upload. Numbnuts here forgot to tighten the second screws (the 2 fiddly ones with the holes you have to access) and have spent the last couple of days 'adjusting' the rollers to no avail. Yes, I completely forgot the two fiddly screw were snug but not tight. If I hadn't seen this video I would have to go back to the Ggeeetech a30. I bought the Ender 3 pro after watching Nerys review. I cannot begin to imagine why (to date) 13 people disliked this video. I must, therefore, deduce that 13 villages have lost their idiots. :)
very wise words
I've watched a dozen Ender 3 assembly vids. Nobody mentions this. Thanks. Mine were off by 3-4mm.
Happy to Help!
It's true, no one ever mentions this but this is also mostly not how to fix it. Adjusting the right concentric nut never makes any difference, unless your X is already horizontal and just needs to be trued to the rail. Often (apparently, mine was way-off too) the X-stepper assembly isn't at 90 degrees to the rail. The only way to properly true your X is to loosen all four bolts, though the holes in the plate - make a best-guess at a good alignment (you can drop it on backwards on one rail and use a set-square) and then drop it on both the vertical rails to check. Tighten your rollers start to wind X back onto Z, you can accurately measure alignment from the Top of the rails. If you're happy, rise it back off and lock down the bolts, not too tight.
Trying to guess this from the bottom or just assume a true won't do anything. Sorry SAN, it's a good attempt to fix something not often covered on CZcams but it won't result in a flat X for most people. They have to correct the assembly error, accurately. xxPD
You can also cheat, which is how i did mine. Loosen the right outer coasters. Take your X to the top of Z and squeeze it against the top rail (no need to remove)
Then get a rule, or a piece of paper. Crease the paper against the top rail on the right. Check it's the same on the left. Rinse and repeat until your X is parallel to your top rail. Then lock the right outer coasters down, tweak the concentric if you need to and you're done. In 1 minute. Mine was 4-5mm out when I got it, almost too much for the bed adjustment - not now. Now it's close to dead-on... not that i checked with calipers nor nuffin. xxPD
Thanks PD that worked for me! :D
Also me... No one like this video... Thanks
🙌 Thanks man, this really helped me to get closer to a decent print 👌
Thank you very much. Was in the middle of installing the Ender Extender kit and was scratching my head on a few things. Got through most of it when I came across this issue. Thanks for the tips!
Great to hear!
a whole week i trying to figure out the probleme now i know how and now its printing my first print thank you bro keep up the great work
Good job. I solved my problem with the x axis with this video. After many attempts to level it, I found this video, which I recommend. Thanks for sharing
Thanks! That was quite useful! Nobody mentions this in their assy tutorials. This one is a must be!
This is probably my second comment since CZcams was created but I have to say THANK YOU. You saved me so much time and headache with this video. I have been cussing my printer for a week.
Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
I was up to a point where I thought the bed was warped or the structure deformed as the nozzle was getting stuck to the bed from the center to the left. I even thought of disassembling the entire printer and assembling it all over again until I saw this video. The right side of the X axis was over 1cm higher than the left and now I can finally level the bed. Thanks a lot for this video
Thanks man! This solved my problem. The bracket holding the right side rollers ha a little slop. Once I adjusted it, it's spot on.
Very well done. I love your idea of using the foam to rest the printer on and roate.
Thank goodness for this video!! I had a sagging X-axis and this was the perfect tutorial on fixing it!
Sorry for late reply, Happy I could help!
Thanks! Thankfully, I managed to get it aligned without having to take the whole thing apart. I noticed the issue when one of my bed height adjustment wheels had to be fully tightened to get the bed levelled and I'm so glad that my troubleshooting led me to this video. You saved me. I am eternally grateful.
Excellent!
Thats my problem currently
Hi - just to let you know that your video was SPOT ON - i was out by 4mm and now its spot on - thanks very much
Your Welcome and good luck.
I was able to skip fully taking it apart by loosening the outside 2 wheels near the PSU and the eccentric nut. i got the measurements level by hand and clamped the x-axis to the bar with a quickgrip clamp. tightend it all up and unclamped. its perfect and rock solid.
Thank you for posting. I was struggling with this thinking it was all in the plates. Cheers!
Happy this help.
well, having followed you awesomely clear and concise tutorial here, found my x-axis is not only off by 4mm (Now corrected), but the gantry itself is bent slightly, with a bit of elbow greas and a general tightening though, its now about as level as can be, still off by maybe a mm at most, but its as good as its gonna get short of replacing the arm, which i just dont have the funds for atm
Either way, many thanks for this awesome vid, youve got yourself a new subscriber, also a couple friends just invested in FDM machines, i'll be sure to point em your way as well :)
Thanks for the video. My X-Axis was off by big time when I relocated it. This did the trick quickly and bad printing again
Good luck and happy Printing.
thank you so much !
I had a problem with my X axis dropping and not being levelled and was afraid that the printer was broken or something.
I'll give it a try with a print to make sure it's back to normal, but so far it moves really smoothly.
really happy to hear that. Good luck!
just loosening the wheels a little bit worked like a charm, thank you so much!
thank you SOOOOOO much. i recently go tit for my birthday, and the print kept smearing on one end of the bed, so naturally i leveled that, like a mad man. only to find out later that the x arm was not leveled at all. and i have just been printing with the bed similarly leveled to the Xarm. but no more thanks to you. the wheel adjustments helped. will adjust accordingly when my caliper comes in. again, thank you sooo much
Thank you for uploading this. used it for my 3v2 worked perfectly.
Glad I could help
This helped me level X on my Sovol SV01. Thanks!
I was having issues with my nozzle hitting my prints for about 6 mos now. I got a BL Touch and a glass bed thinking it was leveling issues but that didn't help. Finally figured out the x axis wasn't level and after watching your video I was able to level it and now it prints perfectly.
Glad to hear man, it’s always the simple things that hold us back. ( New Santube pla 1.75mm filament is here for purchase ($16.99 ) if you would like to support the channel) good luck and happy printing.
Thanks, great video, I appreciate how you sometimes run the picture faster while talking in the background. My x-gantry was off by several degrees, i'm going to fix it now after seeing this! thanks
sorry for late reply but i am happy to see you got it going.
Thank you so much. I have been trying to level my X axis for a long time. This is the first video that actually solved the problem. I did have to go all the way and remove the x carriage, untighten the bolts, adjust the plates so they would be in the right position. But it got me I think 99% level on the x axis. I think that's just a limitation of the overall design.
Thanks man!
2:48 litteraly fixed it for me. I started wiggeling both sides and boom its level as hell now.
Finally. Thank you for posting this.
No problem!
Thank you, I'll put this in my "video toolbox" for future reference.
Slvrbllt44 happy to help.
@@SANTUBE You can also cheat, which is how i did mine. Loosen the right outer coasters. Take your X to the top of Z and squeeze it against the top rail (no need to remove)
Then get a rule, or a piece of paper. Crease the paper against the top rail on the right. Check it's the same on the left. Rinse and repeat until your X is parallel to your top rail. Then lock the right outer coasters down, tweak the concentric if you need to and you're done. In 1 minute. Mine was 4-5mm out when I got it, almost too much for the bed adjustment - not now. Now it's close to dead-on... not that i checked with calipers nor nuffin. xxPD
The two bolts holding the right side on were what did it for me, those are really easy to reach so before taking the whole x axis off try adjusting them first, just loosen it and try to hold it where you want it and tighten them back up
That did it. Thank you, sir!
Thank you for saving my sanity!
I watch so many videos and this one final addressed my problem so thanks so much
Nice clear video thank you. Will try this later on my machine.
This was really helpful in getting my sagging axis back on plane!
Sorry for late reply, Happy it worked out for you.
@@SANTUBE Me too, thanks so much!
Dude, I think you just saved my printer's life. I was about to toss it in the trash! :-P Thanks for this video!
Thank you so much for this video. You fixed my problem with the printer! Subscribed :)
happy to Help!
Great vid and it does work to do what you say. Although even after tightening the four screws I still has a little wiggle. There has to be a mod of some kind to keep side to side wiggle. Maybe put epoxy on rail then tighten all four screws. Might try that.
2:10 Yeah :) I have the printer set on the foam that came with the transportation as well: its a great sound reduction improvement
Agreed.
Got a little issue with mine, will try you methods tomorrow, thanks for the tape measure tip on measuring if it actually is not level
man, I only understand from your work - great many thanks from Istanbul
Happy to help!
you are my hero, thank you for solving my issue
Thanks for the video mine came loose after a Long time and couldnt figure out what was wrong but your video helped so Many thanks🙏🙏🙏
very helpful, thank you!
Thanks for doing this!
This helped out so much. I can finally make good prints
Hi San,
Mate your a legend.
I’m new to 3D printing. I’ve got a ender 3 v2, I’ve been pulling my hair out trying to “level the bed” released the X axis was not level, found your clip, all fixed now. Cheers from 🇦🇺
Thanks, this was a useful how to! Got my gantry leveled back out again!
thank you very much for this video :) I managed to adjust those bolts in 4:30 without disconnecting anything. Just gotta be gentle, slow and careful ;)
Huge help. I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out why my bed was never level. Turns out it was just my x gantry. Couple turns of the eccentric screws and problem solved.
Glad to hear you got it fix. Good luck!
Really great information for Ender 3 noobs. Thanks and subscribed
Happy to help!
thanks this really helped. You sure do have some high outlets in this room 😀
I’m here 5 years later to thank you! I’m going to try this. One side of mine says 1 8th of an inch. And I have to print something for a customer. Hopefully this helps but I’ll go try
Great video :)
Dude you are my hero.
I leave the two plate mounting screws on the right end (by the power supply) loose, until every thing else is adjusted. That allows the right end plate to 'align' itself to its Z rail when you tighten that eccentric. Then, when you tighten the two plate screws, there is no alignment torque applied to the X axis.
This needs to be first comment! Its been so long since I needed to make adjustments that I forgot this trick made it super easy to adjust properly! Thanks for the reminder Doug!
I have been trying for so long and this comment legit just fixed it in minutes. Thank you so much this needs to be top comment.
Thanks a lot. I'll try this for my ender 3 !
good Luck
I'll try the second part of the video. Sadly, the first (playing with the bearings and the eccentric nuts) made my difference between the left and right go from 1mm to 3mm.
Perfect video. short and right to the point. thank you very much. i sub'ed just to say thank you.
Thanks for the sub! Glad it helped.
Great video! I am linking it on our website!
Nice job with this video. Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
This was a very helpful video
Thank you for sharing this
I appreciate you, thank you.
Very helpful, thanks you sooooo much !
Your Welcome.
Thank you so much for your help!
You're welcome!
Good video, imma try this when I get home, without dual Z rods the ender 3 is notorious for the X axis sagging
Ok, I love the video San and appreciate your hard work - however, this is the super-difficult way to do it and probably won't result in a true X-rail for most people.
HERE's HOW TO CHEAT >> Which is how i did mine. Loosen the right outer coasters, like San does 02:20
.
Take your X to the top of Z and squeeze it against the top rail (no need to remove)
.
Then get a rule, or a piece of paper. Crease the paper against the top rail on the right. Check it's the same on the left. Adjust again and repeat until your X is parallel to your top rail. Then lock the right outer coasters down, tweak the concentric if you need to and you're done. In 1 minute. Mine was 4-5mm out when I got it, almost too much for the bed adjustment. Now it's close to dead-on... not that i checked with calipers nor nuffin. xxPD
im glad i didnt AV TO TAKE IT TO BITS AGEN XX
oops :)
Thanks James!
Worked like a charm :)
I couldn't get a good result with the video, but your trick got it to dead center.
If you loosen the concentric nut too much, the screw itself will start turning... I had to use some pliers to hold the screw while I tightened the nut.
This is confusing as hell... "get a rule or piece of paper and crease it against top rail on the right"... what are you trying to say here? What are we checking to make sure it's the same? I'm sorry, but I'm really confused by the terminology you're using. None of it seems to line up with anything I've seen about how to correct these types of problems.
What does rinse and repeat mean? Adjust the screws underneath the plates?
I think he's essentially saying to check the gap matches at the top. You could use a ruler or calipers - I cannot imagine why you'd prefer to measure using creased paper.
I'm not convinced by this approach as it works on the assumption that your 2020/2040 extrusions are all cut perfectly to length and thus the top is an accurate place to measure how square the gantry is. This only works if you are one of the lucky ones whose extrusions were all cut perfectly during manufacture but the rest of us need to check the entire frame is square, not just that the gantry is level with the top beam.
I'd just put two items of equal height (e.g. a spice jar) between the gantry and the horizontal extrusion beneath the bed on each side. Now loosen any and all frame screws plus the gantry screws then tighten them back up again. As long as your printer was sat on a flat surface, your frame should now be as square as it's going to get without modification. In addition, your gantry is now tightened level to that squared frame.
While you've got the printer disconnected, take the time to verify your leadscrew lines up with the motor coupler too as that's another common cause of z-binding with Ender 3s.
This works on the Ender-3 v2, by the way; thanks for the help
Thank you so much, this really helped!
Glad it worked out, good luck and happy printing.
THANK YOU! ALL OF THESE OTHER GUIDES SUCK! You just earned your self a subscriber!
Those two M4bolts can be replace by two M4x20 & two nuts mounted the other way around(tight fit). Now you can adjust the x-gantry without removing it.
Thanks for sharing and this should be useful to a lot of owners out there, the way I did it on my Ender3 the upright extrusions were identical in length , so I simply put an engineers square on the top of each of the open extrusions in turn, with the blade pointing down until it touched the X axis bar and then go through the process of repeatedly removing/refitting the x axis to adjust the 2 awkward bolts on the extruder side of the X axis until it sat level with the square just touching the X bar on both extrusions without moving it, on the idler side I left it sit slack until this was done so not to skew the results, after which I snugged up the eccentric nut and then lastly the 2 bolts attaching the X axis bar to the plate - btw some painters tape temporarily wrapped around the coupler and the 2040 upright while your checking can be useful in preventing the axis dropping...
Great video.
Thanks very helpful even though it printed fine because the bed was levelled with it this was a good idea
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Sir helped a lot
Happy to help!
Many, MANY thanks for doing this. No matter what I do on the right, the right is 4-6mm higher soon as I tighten back up, AND the TOP OUTER RIGHT SIDE wheel is barely touching the side even once tightened?? Any advice please? Should I take the axis off altogether?
Thank you so much.
Thanks you so much for your tutorial
Happy to help.
WOW no one talks about this. Saved me from crying and messing up print after print!
happy to help rick, no need to cry lol
i just watched this, and it turned out is was that i turned the nut behind it first before adjusting the eccentric nut. thanks!
Thanks, this helped :)
tl;dr Mess with those 2 nuts until the x axis is the same distance from the base on both sides. The left nut affects the right side of the x axis, and vice versa. Make sure everything else is square and tight :)
Thank you very much
Blue measuring tape 😂😂 thanks for the video
First, I am appreciative for the informative video, it is the first that I have found that has actually helped...somewhat. I say that because even after removing my x-axis gantry and tightening the plate screws, which weren't loose at all then replacing everythingand tightening the wheels again, I am still a full sixteenth of an inch lower on the right side of my x-axis gantry. I was an eighth prior to this. Perhaps I just have a defective printer?
I sure hope this is gonna work for me, it's quite annoying with it loose. I tried to tighten the nuts that hold the bar from the extruder side... but even then it was still a little wobbly before I put it on. I don't want to strip the threads though. I really hope pushing the wheels closer to the z beam will help.
edit: so I took the whole thing off again, and I reseated the wheel holders and put them as close together as possible. The decreased the sag, but getting it all completely leveled is very difficult.
Helped thankyou
Nice thank you
Thanks man you saved me
Happy o help.
Thank you! :D
thank you!
thanks a bunch. noticed the right side of my printer wasnt raising as fast bas the left at the start of prints causing them to lean slightly. Noticed a few of my wheels werent even touching fixed the issue