Transmission installation Kawasaki 2 stroke triples H1 500 and H2 750
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- transmission installation and tips
And probably the most comprehensive triples resource site in the world: kawtriple.com/m...
and my personal website: www.3cyl.com/mr...
Fantastic, I am doing A kawasaki 1100 overhaul, this is very useful. Many thanks for posting this excellent and informative clip.
Thanks Johnny
Thanks John,always informative and helpful
Hello! I don't know what I would do without your videos! Thanks so much for posting them.
However, I have to say that I disagree with the way you install the bushing in the secondary/output shaft. When I opened my engine, it was installed the other way, with the notch toward the outside. Since I trust you though, I tried to button up my engine with the notch towards the inside and it does not fit properly: I was unable to turn the transmission after torquing the nuts... Luckily I don't think I have damaged anything, I will just have to clean the sealant and reclose it. Interestingly in your other video about buttoning up the engine, it seems you have corrected it and the notches are towards the outside... Let me know what you think. Thanks a lot, best, Christophe
Ps: since I have to reopen my engine, do you recommend I take the cranksaft out and put again loctite 620? Or the one I have installed should be fine until I put the case together again.
Hey Chris,
It's best to install things as they came apart. I was just pointing out the fact that the hole is asymmetrical and can be used as an adjustment if necessary. It really comes down to how the transmission is shimmed. As far as the crank, if the cases weren't together that long, then I would clean and start over with the 620.
And thanks! I do these to help you guys out......
johnnydanger57 great thanks! You recommend using carb cleaner for cleaning the 620? Thanks a bunch!
I believe it is based on the same formula as the others, so do a test, the carb cleaner should work fine on it.
Doh, just seen your link. Thanks
Glad to help!
Is the "clunk" that much louder than the other gears? There will always be some kind of clunk just from the design. Undercutting is a great idea, but wont really make a shift quieter.
Do you have the URL for the photos you mentioned at time 8:30 in the video. Great job BTW.enjoyBruce
+bruceekinghotmailcom kawtriple.com/mraxl
Great Vid!!! I have a question on my H1 500. I have 2 engine cases that have the transmission pins pushed flush with the case. The previous owner didn't take his time when reassembling the engines. Do you have a method on getting ahold of the pin and pulling them back out?
You actually have to drill from the backside, push them back out and then fill with jb weld. At least that how I do it.
Is there a way to possibly tack weld something like a nail or something like that onto the pin and tap the nail upward with a hammer pulling the pin back out?
If you want to. they are a very tight fit.
Johnny ! , Help please... My H2 has an nos shift & short shift lever (attached) . However even with the (nos) bolt pretty tight, there's play on the splines. disapointing how much !. Have you struck this; and ever solved it ? Thanks. Paul p.s trying to keep it standard.
P.S what gear box oil do you recommend. I'm in Australia. So general terms. Will synthetic leak due to the seal tolerances not being designed for it. ?.
Yes I have run across it. My fix was to cut one side of the short arm at the bottom of the slit so it can actually tighten on the shaft. Not stock "looking" but I'm not a stock guy....lol
Thanks, that crossed my mind too. After paying thru the nose for an NOS part. I may try "loctite Nu metal" on the splines, see how that goes. Thanks. What oil works well in the H2 gearbox and doesn't actually create leaks ?
Good luck on the new metal, never tried it. And Vavoline hypoid gear oil 80-90wt for limited slip differentials. This was recommended to my by Kevin Cameron many years ago, and what I use exclusively.
Re the slippery diff oil; good idea !. So 80-90wt is essentially a 30W oil. Ok i'll check it out. Yeah i don't expect new metal to last forever. Also considered "araldite" and similar things. It's a pretty thin area to fill all around. When it finally gives, a puller should get the lever off; me thinks. And start a-fresh.
Hi Johnny, how do you shim the transmission?
Here is a how to, Ross.
kawtriple.com/mraxl/trans_manual/motomanual.htm