BORING A CAST IRON HAND WHEEL 726 tubalcain
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- In this lesson, I show how to drill & ream a hole in a cast iron hand wheel.
The rough casting came from McMaster-Carr.
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Must be a special project to get paint..lol
Best thing about McMaster Carr is their fast shipping. Nine times out of ten, it’s at my door the next day. Makes the sometimes pricy shipping worth it.
Yes, the fast shipping was a no-brainer in the mill. Downtime is way more expensive than shipping.
"...TIME IS MONEY!!"
Having seen the effort and skill required to make an iron casting to size and without flaws, I am always impressed by one that is so well done.
Thank you for allowing us the privilege of looking over your sholder,good video🤗😎🤗😎
I have machined several of those handles for a project. We have a bigger lathe so we just chucked them and went to town. We also clean-cut the hub OD so it's straight and concentric and gave a face cut. Then flipped the wheel around and machined the face of the hub as the shaft had a nut and washer holding it on. Ours had to be broached and drilled and tapped for set screws too.
It might be of interest to folks to see how you drill and tap that hub?
Nice little easy project. I enjoyed that.
True oldschool machinists grind and polish hadwheels with their hands during decades of work.
The McMaster-Carr catalog was in my hands nearly every day for 20 years doing maintenance and construction in the mills. Life would have been much rougher without it and Grainger.
This is the second boring video I have seen today. I liked this one best. Keep on keeping on.
😀
Thanks for explaining the methods we may try to machine this part, and especially why the set-up would or would not work. John
Thanks for this "old fashioned shop teacher" video spitting chips! Thanks for the rigging lesson!
That was a well made casting. Joe Pie, making miniature machines, recently got "a different" quality and went for the scrap bin to make one from scratch......
Watching the video to its end You surely did it the best way. Filing at the end looks like a very good choice regarding the demands, just needs to feel well in the hand.
We all need escape from today's plastic world , thankyou
Well done Mr. Pete
My morning is now complete.😀
Nice piece.Thank you.
Really nice job.
Nice to see you making chips! These are great castings. McMaster a GREAT place to shop!
McMaster-Carr is my go to for handles, levers, misc hardware and small quantities of raw material. BTW, for what it's worth, I would have thought "use the mill" first.
Best wishes sir, Cheers
Nice made in England chuck you have there you put out some interesting stuff from oxford England
Thanks
👍Nice work!
What is your hand wheel used for? I'm curious because you said it's going to withstand a high rpm.
As an option you might have been able to turn the jaws around on the 3 jaw and grip on the ID. Thanks for the video.
...that's what I was thinking-!!
I was about to rush in to Mr Pete's defence with a "he showed that he wasn't comfortable with doing that because he felt the jaws weren't deep enough". Then remembered, oh, that was on the 4 jaw chuck.
As someone with absolutely zero machining experience, allow me to go find my dunce cap...
He might have attempted the three jaw and not mentioned that, but that was my first thought as well. Of course, my number two thought was the never ever failing trusty ole' mill.
Yeah, if the chuck jaws weren't high enough for a grip, I would have figured out how to make 'em high enough. My reasoning makes the assumption the pattern for the casting was really precise. Also if this is to spin fast, the most mass is in the outside and would affect balance the most. Mr Pete did it just fine. :)
@@marcp1180 "...down by the old mill stream..."
I kinda thought you might locate the center by indicating to the outside of the handle as well as the hub to determine how concentric the hub was compared to the outside of the handle. But the final run up in the lathe showed how very good the quality of the casting is.👍👍
I would of put it in the 4 jaw chuck and a tail stock center in the middle to hold it in the chuck safely then turned the taper center hub straight flipped it around then bored the hole properly then cut the keyway if needed . I done them before . Just my 2 cents .
I would have seek for the avg center of the wheel and not for the center of the hub.... You were lucky by the fact that the casting is of such nice quality.... Im used to work with lower quality castings
...its a cruel WORLD-!!
If McMaster Carr doesn't have it, you don't need it.
I've replaced quite a few cheap handles with nice cast iron ones from them. The last one for my chop saw vise was even pre-plated, so no paint required.
A great piece of edutainment , very relaxing on a Sunday evening here in Western Australia .thanks Mr Pete .
Thanks
Thank you much.
Who would have thought the Texans would beat the Titans yesterday in Nashville. Educational video as always…
That’s the way I’d do it.
You talked me out of using the drive plate.
You still got it!
Nicely done handwheel. Looks great.
I think multiple scribe lines from your center finder and averagiing the intersection likely would have been faster and more average than using the co-ax.
I very much enjoyed this. What a pleasant way to start a Sunday morning.
Maybe you could send it my way for a powder coat. Much nicer than paint.
Lyle, good video for the first cup of coffee on a sunny Sunday morning - but only 38. Keep 'em coming.
Always a pleasure to watch your videos M. Pete.
Excellent attribute and functional results, checking it on a revolving lathe was proof. However not all castings aren't of that quality.
Concentricity after function would be my major concerns. The ground parting line removing the flash, the rim diameter and the recess inside the rim all become important. Which would you select?
Seeing the handwheel spinning, I would place the recess first, the handwheel rim outer diameter second, the parting line third and the hub (not seen) unimportant.
Procedure would be to flatten the hub on the mill first, flip the handwheel so the handwheel can be (3) toe clamped to indicate the recess inside diameter to drill/bore the hub through hole. The handwheel diameter, then the parting line could be amply addressed as videoed and if the hub required any completed machine work.
A lesser quality casting would alter the process to it's defects.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Nice to see you at the machines again Mr Pete. Oh and nice hand wheel.
So nice to see you making chips again!!
Nice short clip and helpful. Saw several coaxial indicators over at Lost Creek, I am going to contact them about one and a Starrett 289-B,, Thx for taking out time to shoot this,,Bear.
Lyle good thinking the milling machine you got a endless amount of adjustments.
Thank you Mr Pete. Nice job,looks good.
Hi Lyle. Thanks for another good lesson on machining cast iron. I was hoping you’d bore the hole to size then broach a keyway on your arbor press. Looking forward to the Bridgeport tramming video you promised us a while back.
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.
Nicely done ... Thanks for sharing - Be Safe
would make a nice go-kart steering wheel.
Really Great Information Mr Pete.....Cheers...
I love watching your videos when do we get an explanation of what you’re doing
You have all best toys!
Even if you're never planning to put on a spinner handle, it might make sense to locate and drill a hole there just to enhance the balance a little.
Nice work!
For this kind of handwheel with no handle, I like to mill a dimple into the handle provision instead of a threaded hole, using a 3/4in ball end mill. Then you can rapid spin the wheel with a fingertip. This keeps the option to upgrade to a threaded hole for a handle later. Works well for CNC handwheels that spin rapidly on their own, no projections to catch you.
The handwheel, bored.
The audience, engaged.
My ocd would have painted and polished haha! McMaster has great stuff,and some wierd voodoo shipping system,we are in the same area,I've had some orders the next day, have no idea how that happens. Bought a damaged Dayton slip roller that had broken plastic knobs,Dayton wanted $21 each $13shipping, I bought 4 unmachined aluminum knobs slightly oversized for my arthritic hands at $7 each. Just had to drill and ream to 5/8" and drill for a roll pin.
👍
Thanks Awesome Job !!!
10/10
Now you have me curious what the hand wheel is for. I always enjoy a project, even if it is a project for someone else.
It is the hand wheel for my south bend shaper
I'm wondering if you could wrap a neat single layer of masking tape around the hub before setting center. This would smooth over much of the casting roughness so the indicator wouldn't jump around so much.
So, it looks like this is Mr Pete's 'mystery' series of videos - what is he making ?
A milling machine ? And this is the handwheel for operating the knee ! - LOL
Could it be the start of a stair-lift?
Good to see you doing some machining :)
Thank you
Hi Mr Pete good video i just did a setup similar to yours . i bought a new 1hp bench grinder ( Jet taiwan ) used like new and the box looked beetup and when i opened it up it was brand new and after putting it together i saw the right side rest was cocked . I set the inner guard (cast ) on a three inch heavy tube and clamped it down and indicated it like you did and faced it with a boring head should of done it on a rotary table all straight now .Tanks JM
👍👍
Lyle, you have regularly mentioned your Atlas lathe. I recently bought an Eames Atlas 0 arbor press that is in good shape. I cannot find any similar pics of another one. How rare are these things now do you suppose? Btw, terrific job on the wheel modification.
Sorry, I have never seen one of these Anvils. I’m not sure it’s the same company?
Great job. Could you have used the co-axial indicator to find center on the lathe as well? I guess it would have been hit or miss trying to make the adjustment with the wheel clamped to the faceplate.
4:15 Aligning with the centre boss - if I was doing that, I'd align with the outside of the wheel but not where it's been ground ! Doing this in the lathe would be far preferable.
Yes a lathe would be the first and obvious choice but he explained that his chuck jaws were too shallow to grip the part safely.
So, how close were your scribed marks compared to the coaxial indicator?
Nice wheel. I have an unrelated question that nobody seems to cover. Lag bolts threading is unusual. What is best way to cut them? Need this for unobtainable wood anchor and other wood insert projects.
Those threads are rolled on with special machines and tooling. I have no idea how to cut one on the lathe
@@mrpete222 I did some experimentation. About 70 total angle with the end cut square does a not bad job. Enough to make odd sized inserts for wood anyway.
Could you use the Bridgeport and boring head to true up the OD of that hub?
Absolutely, but why would I do that?
Thank for the video Lyle. I’m curious as to the application if you are willing to share that. I need a power down feed wheel for my Bridgeport mill. Would this wheel work for that application?
Mr. Pete. long time watcher and subscriber... off subject but this is the only way I know how to contact you, other than snail mail. On #379 pt. 4 of making a height gage. I am presently making a scribe for my Starrett height gage and would like to know how you milled that thin small drop scribe? I have some tool steel to layout but and stumped on how to clamp it securely. it is 3/16" thick and parallels in a vice will just not do. I have mill small parts before but had a bend in which I put in the vise that crated clearance to mill the part around the edges and completely thru. can you direct me to one of your previous videos that you preformed such a task or give a suggestion. thanks so much, keep them chips flying! Joe P.
Morning sir
You sure were right on the title, boring for sure.🤣 Postage probably doubled the cost now days.😢
3:55 "Centre finding head" - we call them a 'centre square'.
“Center” head on this side of the pond.
No champfer??
I think you quit too soon. Turn the OD and machine away those pads for the crank, front and back with a smooth radius. Then turn off the taper and face the small center dia.
Just sayin, JIM
Keep up the good work!
PS. I would have held it on the OD pressing it in towards the chuck with the tailstock, turning the small OD true, then turn it around and turn the large OD and drill the hole holding on the small OD. Bore the drilled hole for a true hole.
...why not grip the outer rim from the INSIDE with a 3-jaw chuck?
Outer rim is way to much of a radius, possibly inside of the three holes might have had enough meat to safely grip on though. Over-all however the mill is a very efficient and safe way of doing it.
That is a very nice looking handwheel. I’d almost rather they leave the parting line to me instead of the rough grinding they applied, but it cleaned up nice.
Such a project brings so many thoughts to mind - what does ‘running true’ mean on a rough casting? That is a philosophical question but a good one for someone familiar with the casting process.
Lastly, what are your thoughts of holding the hub in the 3-jaw on the lathe, not to turn but just to find center using the tailstock?
Thank you for watching. There are probably dozens of different ways to set this up
Cliff Miller: “Running true” generally means a round part rotating true to the axis of the machine with little or no lateral wobble. If the part is gripped in a three jaw chuck on the outside diameter the tail-stock drill will “automatically” find the center of the rotating part.
I usually like McMaster-Carr, but sometimes their shipping rates are obscene. Just today I was going to buy 6 small anti vibration mounts from them, but changed my mind when shipping was $17! Bear in mind that they only cost $12, and would fit in the palm of your hand. Shipping should be first class, and cost less than $5.
Getting a little lazy. Would have thought those grinding marks would bother you in the finished product.
Now THIS is boring! 😄
By all of my previous comments you should know I love your channel, but to tell us you don't know the shipping cost. Come on now. $30 + ?
We all know you can buy something for a dollar, then pay $11 shipping, NOT
Is this for the new mill you got from lost creek?
@@simpleman283 I wondered the same thing. He said in an earlier answer that it’s for his South Bend shaper.