2001-05 HONDA CIVIC INNER TIE RODS
Vložit
- čas přidán 1. 06. 2019
- For the DIY, TOOLS & on how to replace the inner tie rods on 2001 to 2005 honda civic EP3 & EM hatch back, coope & sedan models, this procedure may cover other models but were not sure, info and procedures are for entertainment purposes only !
Thanks for posting this video, answered a lot of questions about the process I had prior to starting
🐐 GOAT. 🙏 thanks brother. Just did my brakes and saw all the other suspension and steering that needs replacement too.
Great video man! Very detailed, and helped me alot. Thank you!
Much appreciated 🙏🏽
Thanks for the video. I got stumped with my inner tie Rods also! I was just about to give up until I saw your video. Thanks will definitely try it!! 👍
Glad I can be of help, best of luck !
Cool accento amigo !!!
Great video
Thanks! 👍🏽👍🏽
Did you have to remove bellows boots? If so, how did you remove and install them? I have a 2001, heard there are 2 different length inner tie rods depending on the year and they are different style, one with bellows boot and other like the one in this video without boot. One supposed to be long, other style shorter, and one of the 2 styles can use the slide on tool to remove and install. Is that correct? I bought the crows foot as well as the slide on tool.
Hey doing my 02 and ran into the same problem and remembered you video... would a size 1 1-8 work better instead of a 29mm? Because it's not metric and sae equvalant to the 29mm.. jus a smidge bigger.. thoughts? Jon
Hey were you able to remove both inner tie bars with the same tool you used and front the same position you were working on? Thanks
А для чего менять внутреннею тягу, если можно заменить рулевой наконечник? Что там изнашивается, что вы решили заменить тягу??? ( спасибо )
Hello, thanks for making the video. Did the old inner tie rods seem worn at all or do you think they had lots of life left on them?
Thanks for watching, the where bad, had way to much play, let's just say I could use them as bells ! 🤣
@Raul GARGOLA Rivera - does this method also applies to the drivers side tie inner tie rod? since you only showed the passenger side only
Yes correct, it's the same procedure!
charles re thanks for asking that👍🏻
Fold your washer down
Im having trouble to take put the driver side inner tie rod is seems stuck but i broke it loose with my brakebar
Not sure if you'll respond to this. I just picked up an angel grinder from harbor freight. Was just wondering when you ground the crow's feet wrench, did you grind the inside of the wrench at all, or just the outsides(top/bottom) of it?
Appreciate the walk through! Been trying to get my rack and pinion done and might as well get these done too while they were out.
Hello, I hope I understood your question right, I did not grind the matting surfaces, just made it thinner so it could fit between the actual tierod and the rack space, so I could slide it in, the thickness of the crow foot was a bit to thick and so grinding it down made it fit perfectly, just grind a bit at a time and flat so you do not have uneven areas and ruin the actual tool, best of luck !!
@@GARGOLASPERFORMANCECOATINGS Thanks for the quick response man. You answered my question perfectly. Couldn't think of the term, but yes was wondering if you ground down the matting surface at all but like you said you didn't and I thought I could tell from the video I just wanted to double check! Thanks man! Much love
NP. Glad I could be of help, when you grind, do a few passes with the grinder and grind a bit at a time and test fit it till it fits snuggly, best of luck !! God bless !
What if you remove air box filter?
Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
👍🏼🙏🏽🙏🏽
Is is it possible to turn the wheel to allow for more access? Does the point where the interrods connect to the rack move?
It makes it really hard to deal with the rack if you do, I wouldn't
what was the reason you were replacing the inner tie rod ends in the first place? i am currently trying to diagnose a wobble on my 2003 honda civic. i have already replace the breaks (pads and rotters ) replace both lower control arms. as well as replced, tie rod ends, ball joints. on both sides. still has a wobble.... Any ideas??? Thank you.
It had lots of play and it felt like it was going to fall apart when you cought anything on the road, the woble can be caused by a wheel being out of round, or even loose lugs, hope you find out what is wrong, best of luck
How did you go about flattening the lock washer? I was able to get the top flattened down but the bottom has me stumped.
Mine was just hammerd in by the top i dont have much tools but i did both sides with a hammer and chisel and a Adjustable wrench and it works no need for that tool
That's a good idea amigo we call that a crows foot thanks for the idea keep swinging them wrenches
Thank you !👍
Nice job showing the removal
how did you get in there to bend the washer to lock it so bolt dont come loose if it does
Needle nose, flat head and patience
Where you getting heavy vibrations at high speeds ? I’ve done so much trying to fix it but vibration still there, now I’m thinking it might be this
If the road was not in the best shape yes, if not no, but if they are awfully bad I'm sure it could, even more so when the bushings and ball joints are bad, check your wheel balances,
My engine compartment doesn't have nearly that much access to the rack. Did you remove things?
In reality all I Removed if I can remember correctly was the air intake and filter box,
If you have an EP3 then it has a 'performance' bar that runs parallel to the inner tie rods. You may have to remove that first in order to get access to the inner tie rod end with a spanner.
Very informative video.. A question- are the threads on the inner side of tie rod left handed ?, and is the nut (with crow foot wrench on) is righty tighty and left loosey ? . A bit confusing, just wanted to ask before I cross thread anything.
It will naturally screw in without forcing anything, it was a normal thread not a reversed thread, hope this helps ! Thanks for watching
Hey, just did mine and I got it as tight as I possibly could, but that crush washer didn't fold over the rack like how the stock tie rod crush washer did. Should I be concerned I didn't get it tight enough? I was literally flexing the entire rack, that's how tight I was getting it with all of my body weight. Would you recommend any kind of mild loctite? I was just a little worried because it is your cars steering.
Bend the tabs on the plate looking washer, when I tightened mines it looked similar to what your describing, as long as your sure it's tight you should be good to go, if you feel like you need to take a second walk at it by all means please do, peace of mind is all sometimes, best of luck and God bless !
@@GARGOLASPERFORMANCECOATINGS Thank you very much for getting back to me so quickly. I appreciate the video and the advice. I will double check and then fold the washer over!
friend and how to remove the inner tied road on the pilot's side.
It's the same exact process just on the Driver's side !
First time you were able to get in there....
what about renting a inner tie rod tool where it slides over the tierod can i use that instead of crows
I tried that and it does not work
I wasn’t able to use that tool. There was lack of clearance on the inner not the end of it were the rubber contacts the rack and pinion. There wasn’t space for the tool to slide over it
40lbs of torque on those tie rods ??
I tightened them as far as I could, not sure as to what tork spec that would be,
U said pian in the Butt and in the Back to 😂
A lot of pain ..🤣🤣
Does anyone know the torc specs?
I've always used anywhere from 30-40 FLBS, but many will say you tighten it till the Collars are inserted/ seated on the mating face, then tighten the necessary to be able to insert the pins in, but a quick search on Google for the service manual for peace of mind is never overkill, best of luck God bless !
Thank you so much, the manual is not online and i have to buy the physical book but it is not an option for me right now. I dont mean to question you after asking for help but the torc specs you listed are for the inner tie rod or outer?
Those are for the crown nuts for the outer, the inner if im not mistaken was 40-50 FLBS
LIFE SAVER!
Glad I can be of help bud ! Best of luck !
If you have to modify the tool it's not an easy task. I will search for one that doesn't need modification
Awsomeness I agree, if you do, share with us your findings!
Tie rod... not rods.... whys nobody show the driver side?
Same operation on both sides basically, just mimic the same procedure on both sides
@CCC Gardens Correct, I had made the video for the other side and when editing eliminated it, would have been way to long with same outcome.
@CCC Gardens yeah I ran in to the same situation, I ended up buying it on Amazon, if I can remember it was like 12 bucks or so.