L&R Master Watch Cleaning Machine Restoration and Wiring
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- čas přidán 1. 05. 2022
- I got this L&R Master Watch Cleaning Machine in a trade with a friend. Unfortunately is was a mess! I did some basic restoration to the base and motor housing to get it looking good again but I had to do quite a bit of research to figure out how to rewire the machine to make it function and to make it safe. I share a wiring diagram to assist if you have a similar project ahead of you.
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Easily, one of the most inspiring and thorough L&R restorations I've seen! Bravo!!
Wow, thank you! I'm so glad you enjoyed it. Keep watching and you'll get to see the L&R in action in some of my upcoming videos.
@@watchasilearn I have a couple of old L&R Mathematics. I believe it's a slightly newer model then the one you restored in this video. The center post on the one I'm trying to restore was riveted into the base (???), they didn't use a screw or bolt. So I drilled it out today, but the center post still won't budge. Before I take a hammer to it from the underside, and try to whack it out, I was wondering if you knew if these center shafts (the motor rides on) are connected some other way that isn't obvious to me. PS: Love the video. I wish I could find one that was as good that showed the restoration of of other Mastermatics.
Nice job. I just pick up one that will need to be required. This is going to help a lot. Thanks
Thanks so much for watching. Glad it helped!!
I can't express how much I appreciate your videos...and how useful they are to me as I dip my toe into this hobby. I'm in the middle of restoring a very old L&R cleaning machine myself (which I purchased after watching this video for the first time several months ago). My unit appears to be one of the very earliest versions L&R made since it doesn't even have a model name on it. The L&R tag says the motor was made by Hamilton Beach in Racine, Wisconsin. Interestingly, the same motor model was used on very early versions of the Hamilton Beach milkshake making machines. Thanks for "mentoring" me through your channel. Keep up the great work. Rocky
Hey Rocky, I’m so glad this was helpful to you! What a great comment!! Enjoy the satisfaction of restoring the machine yourself and good luck as you dive into this hobby. It is just so much fun. Thanks so much for watching and for the uplifting comment! Stay tuned for more videos to come.
Thanks for your video on the wiring. I have a of questions: on your three way switch are you using a DPDT switch?
Thank
Nice restoration! In terms of electrical safety, this unit doesn’t meet today’s standards. Note that when the unit is plugged in and the heater is off, most of the wires in the unit are at line voltage of 120VAC. The black wire is the hot side. To be safe, the black should go to a fuse, and then to an on-off switch, before going to the motor switch. This is the reason why a wall switch in a house is always on the black wire - if it’s on the white wire then the outlet, lamp, or other appliance is still electrified when the wall switch is off. Obviously the safety standards were different when this unit was built.
Hey Paul, thanks for watching. That's GREAT information!!
Hey Paul, 100% right. I am an electronics guy and am restoring a Mastermatic now. One thing I don't like is the lack of a fuse and power switch. Easy enough to add for sure. The only small concern is we are dealing with liquids and if some were to drip down on say the fuse holder we would get a short possibly and blow the fuse (what its for :) I am powder coating the base and motor housing now so I will decide how to tackle that when it goes back together. I am also not a fan at all of connectors. I like to solder the wires directly to the terminal and shrink wrap. I deal with high voltage tube amps and would never dream of using connectors (thats me). For added safety I also grounded the motor as well as the mains coming in or course.
To the OP, nice working on your paint too. I started to paint mine but figured the cleaning solution would eventually eat up the paint like so many originals. I oped for powder coating (high gloss white). I wanted to plate the motor post too but was quoted 130.00! Mine is really not that bad anyway so I polished it and called it good.
Fun bringing these back to life :)
Nice job 👏
Many Thanks!
So far youre the only person to show how to rewire this particular machine.
Since i could not find one reasonably priced to restore i went with the Pearl machine from India.
$550 dollars two complete baskets and 5 jars. No auto- reverse but its a nice machine. Any way good luck and stay well
I hope the Pearl Machine works out well for you. Thanks for watching!
Found your channel tonight. Really enjoyed your efforts. Liked them all and subscribed. I'm interested in following your journey.
Thanks so much for subscribing. I really appreciate your comments and look forward to showing you what I’m currently working on.
Nice restoration! Excellent explanations. Thank you.
Many thanks!
What a stunning end result 👍👍👍
Thanks, I am really happy with how it turned out also. Thanks for watching!!
Thank you for this detailed video!!! I'm about the start into this exact same project, as I also just received one of these machines. Mine is still together, but in pretty rough shape, too. It runs and heats, but I'll be needing to do a complete restoration.
I’m glad this video helped you! I hope your project goes smoothly and thanks for watching!
Hi Mark. Great video. I"m in the exact same boat as you right now where i'm in the process of building my watch repair and restoration bench and spending a ton on tools and parts. A watch cleaning machine is on my list of items to get and I suspect that i'll have to go the same route as you as new ones are way too expensive for a hobbiest. My next item on my list is an ultrasonic cleaner. I just got my microscope yesterday which i'm setting up today. Maybe i'll do a few videos on some of the tools I bought and where I made some savings. Great work. Keep em coming.
Hi Graham, thanks for watching and for the kind words. Restoring an older machine is a great way to save some money. As you know, watchmaking tools can be insanely expensive!! Also, thanks for subscribing!
Thank you for making this, you got my sub.
Thanks so much for watching and for the Sub!!
Great tutorial. Nice editing as well
I’m glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for your comment. I’ve really been working hard to improve my editing skills. Your comment made my day!!
Nice work. Glad you stuck with it after you didn't like the first coat on the base. I have a Good-All parts washer which is kinda rare, and did to it what you did to yours. Rebuilt L&R's can fetch an arm and a leg. Well done.
Hi Mike. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. I knew that I just wouldn't be happy with the finish the way is was so I figured I'd try again. Luckily it turned out much better the second time!
Looks great man
Thanks, I appreciate it! Thanks for watching.
Good video, thanks for posting. I wish you had shown the (re)wiring in the motor itself (the power cord) or if there is a picture/diagram of that somewhere?
Hi and thanks for watching. There is another video on CZcams that might provide some insight. czcams.com/video/MHF1oKgLvpg/video.html
He actually gets into the motor housing and takes it apart. I wish I could be of more help.
@@watchasilearn Another good video…thank you! Just painted it and am ready to start wiring…looks like I need to clean up the motor too.
that really turned out nice.
Thanks so much!!
This is the model I have! I have to restore mine as well. Wiring is SUPER sketchy inside, although I did replace the plug
Very nice work indeed 😃👍🏻
A little thing that i would do, i would paint the l&r logo on the base White, and also paint the Line on the Brown bakelite knob with White, maybe some nail laquer, its durable and comes with a little brush inside 😉👍🏻
Hey, thanks for watching and for leaving that great comment! It’s much appreciated.
Hey man, just watched your video and I think it turned out great. I have a Zenith four jar machine that I’m thinking about redoing myself. Thank you for the video. I’m sure it will help me if I ever get around to it.😊-Alex
Hey Alex, thanks for watching and for the comment. I'm a big fan of your channel and have learned so much from you!! Good luck with the restoration of your machine!
I have a few questions, but first, thank you for posting this. I purchased an L&R Master not too long ago to restore and have been dredding working on it due to the cracked wires and asbestos insulation. Yours looks to be the same model I have. You've given me the motivation to start my little project.
Questions:
1. Was the choice of 14ga wire simply based on the 15 Amp rating? Mine came with its original wiring, which is much thinner than 14ga.
2. The 3-position switch may not have been the original component used. My version has a push button that sends the rheostat's power to the motor. Meaning, the user has to hold it down the entire time. When researching, did you consider an upgrade module that reverses the polarity to automatically change the motor's spin from CW to CCW periodically? This would make it more like the Mastermatic model.
3. On the underside of my L&R's base is stamped what looks like a manufacture date: January 1947. Does yours have something similar?
Hi Steven and thanks for the comment.
1) Yes, 14 ga wire was recommended to me so that's what I went with and it seems to be working out OK so far. As stated in the video, I'm not an electrician.
2) That button you refer to had already been changed over to a 2 position switch by the time I got the machine. The only reason I used a 3 position switch is because it's what I already had on hand from an earlier project.
3) I just looked again and the only marking that I could see was the letter "M" which must have been in the casting because it is raised and not engraved into the metal. Wish I could be more help.
I've used a heat gun with vht wrinkle plus paint with good results on vintage small cast iron engines.
It has a quicker more controllable cure time with this method to see if it looks any good.
That's a great tip! Thanks for watching.
beautiful restoration! I have a similar machine - the center support is rusted and in bad shape - other than nickel plating are there other options for cleaning the center support - sand paper/polishing? thanks
Yes, you could definitely sand and smooth out the center support, I just chose the plating as an option.
Nice work !!!! you need a pair of wire strippers.
Indeed!! Thanks for watching!
So happy you did this video! Where did you send for plating?
Hi Adam, I’m so glad you found this video helpful. I actually took the piece to a local plating company and they did a great job. I looked at all the Google reviews before I chose a place and just went with the highest rated business. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!!
Hello Mark, I actually saw you post on another channel (Reddit) where somebody mentioned that you should create a video on CZcams regarding your restoration and I see you took their advice. I'm definitely glad you have this video as I just purchased a very old L&R Master cleaner myself on eBay that supposedly has all it's parts and works, but has all of the original wiring too that will have to be replaced. I noticed that in the really old models like the one I purchased, you have a red button to depress in order to make the machine go in reverse rather than a toggle. They must have figured out later that a toggle switch is much easier, but I will leave it original if I can. The motor on mine also appears to be either chrome or nickel (I will polish it up if possible rather than painting it). The sliding bar according to your video is nickel and I will get it re-plated. Not sure how much that will cost ($75 is what it cost you). Unfortunately, these machines are not cheap and I had to pay a little money for my machine, but I'm retired and I have a bunch of watches from my grandfather that need servicing. I fly fish where I'm at and tie my own flies. I've noticed a lot of similarities regarding the intricacies between the two after watching numerous watch cleaning videos. I've always enjoyed repairing small machines and believe this will prove very interesting. Thank you again for the video and your diagram. Cheers!
Hi Cliff, thanks for watching and for the great comment. I'm glad the video could be of some use to you. I can definitely see how to could like both watchmaking and fly tying. Lots of patience needed for both!!
Good luck with all you do!
Great video. I just got an L&R and need to rewire it as well. Did you rewire the motor as well? the wires inside my motor seem lose. Thanks for the video. It will help me for sure.
I’m so glad the video was helpful. I did not feel I had the knowledge necessary to tinker with the wiring inside the motor housing. It works now but I’m sure I’ll need to have them replaced at some point. I’m on the lookout for someone to do it.
Hi Mark, I finally got my mastermatic, but I believe the rheostat is broken because there's no way to turn off the machine. Once I plug it in, it starts spinning. You seem to be very handy, so would you know whether I could buy a new rheostat from home Depot?
Hi Jimmy, great to hear that you got your mastermatic. The rheostats on these machines are pretty simple devices (at least on mine). It consists of a metal "spoon" shaped piece which slides along a coiled wire that looks kinda like a "spring". Since these machines are old it is possible that there is some rust or corrosion between the "spoon" and the "spring" preventing good contact. You can carefully clean these contacts with some emery cloth or fine sandpaper and that should get things running again. Just be sure to wipe off any debris you may have knocked loose during the cleaning. Hope this helps. If not, you can email me at watchasIlearn@hotmail.com to discuss it further and maybe exchange pics for clarity.
Incredible work Mark! Wow.
I'm about to buy one as well and am excited about the addition to my bench. Do you find that this cleans better than ultrasonic cleaning of the parts, or is it roughly the same, but more convenient? Thank you!
Yes, absolutely! My parts get much cleaner than in the ultrasonic. I'm not sure why but they really seem to.
@@watchasilearn oooooh, I can't wait to get the new machine and try it out. By the way, do you use L+R solutions or do you use lighter fluid as cleaner and 99% isopropyl as rinse?
@@jimmykao3355 Hey there, I’ve watched this very helpful video several times thru, with it assisting my own L&R “Heavy Duty” unit.. it’s older then this one & uses a blower motor below drier element, instead of a light bulb power-on indicator. Anyways, just going thru some of the comments & thought I’d mention too you to 100% REFRAIN from using ANY flammable &/or, combustible cleaners/solvents, since the heater-drier in these units does reach pretty high temps!! 🔥
Hello, would it be possible to receive the extended video footage of this project? Thank you.
Hi, thanks for watching. I'm not sure I have the extra footage anymore. What were you wanting to see? Maybe I can help you out?
In the US black is hot white is common green ground.
Thanks for the info!!!
Mark, I am rebuilding a Master model unit from 1948. Two questions...When I took the motor out of the housing to rewire, the little "pads" that slip into the brush housing came out but I don't know how they sat in there originally. Can you provide me with a clear description of how these contacts sit in the brush housing? Next question...I have a resistor (I think that was attached to the "Off " leg of the On / Off switch. Your diagram does not show this component. Do I need it? Thank you in advance. Scott
Hi Scott, thanks for watching and for the comment. I think the little pads that you speak of are the actual brushes. They should be accessible from outside of the motor housing and actually wear down over time and need to be replaced. Just unscrew the little caps on either side of the motor. There should be a little spring and the “pad” will go on the end of that. Hope this helps. As far as the resistor goes. I’m not an electrician and I merely replaced or cleaned up the pieces that I found in mine and I don’t remember finding the resistor you are talking about. I wish I could help you out but I would get some advice from a qualified professional before I went further.
@@watchasilearn Hi Mark and thank you for your reply. The brushes and their location is easy. I was asking about the "electrodes" that make contact with the brushes and their location. From another You Tuber, I think they are placed above the brush housings as one looks down into the head unit. Question is outside the brush housing or inside the brush (plastic) housing. Just like watches, not enough photos taken to address these questions. DOH! Thanks again. Scott
Thanks for taking the time and showing us how to video. You have inspired me to also do a video of my L&R machine. Followed you along. Now the other stepbi did make was to rewire the motor and unfortunately im stuck in it 😅. Im not sure if i wired the correctly because it ain spinning. Do you have a diagram for the motor wireing?
No, unfortunately I don't have the skills to tackle that part of the build. Sorry I'm not much help in that regard. Thanks for watching!!
@@watchasilearn no problem you did help me throughout the process and I eventually tackled the motor as well. I put out a video of it and also gave you a special thanks and shout-out of your channel.
@@el22chris I watched your video and you did a GREAT job. I'm going to try to rewire my motor following along with you this time. Thanks also for the shout out, it's my first! Subscribed!!
@@watchasilearnI am pretty sure I’ve heard Marshall over at Wristwatch Revival mention you too
Really? That would be amazing! He is such a great guy and had a huge influence on me at the the beginning of my watchmaking journey. Thanks for watching and for leaving this great comment.
Nice work however I would definitely recommend soldering your connections instead of just crimping them.
Mark, I bought a machine on ebay and, after receiving it, I noticed that the wiring is pretty messed up. Would you be willing to help restore it?
Hi Steve, thanks for watching. I got your email and replied to you.