I’m a 59 year old grandmother and I was able to use this video to change the alternator in our 2006 GT today. Only using your video. Some of bolts required longer bits than I have so that was challenging but I’m so proud of myself and so thankful for your video!
Great video. Couldn't imagine a more detailed approach. Socket sizes, cleaners and everything. Took longer to buy the new alternator than to do the install. Thank you!
You read a lot on the forums. This is why I love Mustangs and Mustang owners c: Our cars have the biggest aftermarket following and you can do anything you want to your car, there's tons of other people willing to help!
Prefect Video!! Detailed everything! I happened to be driving my car and it gave a battery sign on dash, then said "check charging system" I then noticed the dash mileage lights getting very dim, and the battery volts needle were dropping rapidly all while driving. I immediately pulled into a gym parking LOT and parked. It idled about 3-5mins then the engine shut itself off, I couldn't even shift the gear into anything while idle. I knew it was alternater as the battery was still brand new 3 months ago. Pep boys was around the corner, so bought new one, had someone pick me up, grabbed my tools at home and went back. Watched this whole video, and did it under 40mins right there in the LOT. It would have been even quicker but I made a few mistakes. All in all, one of the easiest repairs you can do on this model car. Thanks alot man!! I would love to see more of your repair vids.
Amazing video- thank you SO much. So detailed and not a step missing. My 2006 GT threw the legendary P0340 code last week at 52,000 miles and I'm replacing the alternator next week- this video tells me everything I need to know going in right down to what socket sizes.
I fuckin love you man i was over here stressing about taking it to a shop and spending a bunch of money but then i found your video and just took it out now in under 30 min you sir the fucking man
RUBICONTJ - I just used your video to help my son replace the alternator on his 2007 GT. Kudos to you and thanks for taking the time to post this. Well done and take care dude!!!!!
Never place a wrench on the positive battery terminal without first disconnecting the negative terminal unless you think you might enjoy a little welding if you accidentally touch the wrench to any other metal part on the car.
ok sir, you seem to know a lot, I trust your judgement. here in los angeles, most mechanics are telling me to buy a new alternator for my 2007 Mustang GT because buying from autozone might cause me to replace it again within a year or so. they claim that the alternators form autozone might not pump the precise voltage that my mustang requires, and that it might damage other things... "i recommend you buy OEM motorcraft so that your car can run smooth" that's what they keep telling me
I am an electrical engineer, so it's kind of my job to know a lot about this stuff. It's true that quality of components is important. I replaced the alternator on my daughter's 2006 Mustang with one she bought at Advance Auto Parts. Everything checked out. It worked for less than a week and failed. I was out of town at the time and it cost us a tow. I removed it, she exchanged it, I reinstalled it and did all the checks again including grounding. Everything checked out again. So far, so good, but that was only two months ago. Either way, you're going to pay. I would replace any alternator that is not outputting between 14 and 15 volts. More than 13V will keep the battery charged. Less than 16V will not harm any OEM equipment. Also, it's good to check for any AC component that that might be superimposed on the DC bias (rectifier failure). That can easily hurt things. Just flip your meter to VAC while you're checking the the voltage as I described. It should be negligible (tens of mV).
I'm thinking of getting this '06 Mustang 4.6L V8 I saw in a lot but from the blogs , looks like alternators & batteries are easily fried especially on '06. Is that the problem you're facing on ur GT? Is there any countermeasures you know of? , btw, great video RUBICONTJ
The replacement alternators from www.americanmuscle.com are a much better improvement over parts store aftermarket ones. Another thing you need to look up is changing the spark plugs on these, tough job!!! Buying a Tuner is addictive!! A lot of fun with the tuner. Get one 😀
Great video. What type of alternator did you go with? I have an 08 GT and think my alternator is having issues. The forums say that the Motorcraft 6G alternators are garbage and that the Denso version designed for the 2009 and 2010 are better. What do you think?
You kinda skipped the part when you tightened the belt. All you did was adjust tensioner? Is there any specific tension or torque measure I need to get it to?
It is a spring loaded tensioner, once the belt is back in correct routing,, the spring automatically put the proper tension on the belt. So when you reinstall the belt, you must use the breaker bat to hold the tensioner allowing the belt to be fully installed. Hope that helps.
Yeah, that worked out nicely. However, the local part store sold me a bad alternator which fried the positive battery cable when I re connected the ground battery terminal... New alternator tomorrow, and hopefully I can get a cable off a junked mustang since the cable is dealer sale only.
quick question. I replaced my alternator because my car stalled a few nights ago. (three months ago i also changed battery). After the replacement, the car computer system was rebooting. I noticed that my car stalled everytime I turned on the ac. If i turned off the ac, the car wouldn't stall at all. Any solutions as to why the ac shuts off the engine?
they are charging me 1000 to replace my alternator at ford . they say mine has a bad diode . they are charging me 600+ and the rest is tge labor work . are they over charging me
Yes it did, you may need a code reader to erase it, I erased the code before I replaced the alternator and it came right back. Once alternator is replaced I cleared it and never came back
I would go to Autozone, Advanced Auto or a similar parts store that will come out to your car with their handheld computer and they can test it right in the parking lot. Most test for free because they are hoping for your business if they detect a bad part. If the alternator is already off the same holds true, most part stores will test it inside the store for free. Good luck.
With the engine running and all accessories on (headlights, AC, radio, etc.), use a voltmeter to check the voltage at the battery terminals. A healthy charging system will output about 14 to 14.5 VDC, but anything over 12.6VDC will keep the battery charged. I would replace the alternator if it's outputting less than about 13.5VDC under those conditions. If that's the case, it's probably failing and could leave you stranded.
excellent job but the negative should be disconnected instead of the positive.... I need to put one in my 2005 GT this weekend.... I wasn't getting any trouble codes but the 2 year old battery needed jumped three times... went straight to Advance Auto after the third jump; they tested the battery and alternator.... alternator was putting out 13.8 volts but when all accessories where turned on, the voltage dropped to 13.7 instead of going up.... UPDATE ---- See link for alternator removal process if you do not want to remove the throttle body.... 1.cdn.lib.americanmuscle.com/files/95310-95320-cust.pdf
13.7V is a little low, but it will keep the battery charged. The open-circuit voltage of a six-cell lead-acid battery is 6*2.1V=12.6V. Anything over that will charge the battery. Anything less means the battery is not charging and you are drawing energy from it and it will eventually drain.
Yes, that's typical of battery failure. If the car runs fine once it's started but the battery won't hold a charge and is dead next time you go out to start it a day or two later, the battery is failing. A good way to do a preliminary load test on the battery is to try to fully charge it, then place your voltmeter across the battery terminals while you have a helper start the vehicle. If the battery terminal voltage drops below 9VDC while cranking, the battery is failing or it doesn't have sufficient capacity to start your engine (it's fully functional but too wimpy). And that can kill a starter motor too.
I’m a 59 year old grandmother and I was able to use this video to change the alternator in our 2006 GT today. Only using your video. Some of bolts required longer bits than I have so that was challenging but I’m so proud of myself and so thankful for your video!
Great video. Couldn't imagine a more detailed approach. Socket sizes, cleaners and everything. Took longer to buy the new alternator than to do the install. Thank you!
You read a lot on the forums. This is why I love Mustangs and Mustang owners c: Our cars have the biggest aftermarket following and you can do anything you want to your car, there's tons of other people willing to help!
Prefect Video!! Detailed everything!
I happened to be driving my car and it gave a battery sign on dash, then said "check charging system" I then noticed the dash mileage lights getting very dim, and the battery volts needle were dropping rapidly all while driving. I immediately pulled into a gym parking LOT and parked. It idled about 3-5mins then the engine shut itself off, I couldn't even shift the gear into anything while idle.
I knew it was alternater as the battery was still brand new 3 months ago. Pep boys was around the corner, so bought new one, had someone pick me up, grabbed my tools at home and went back. Watched this whole video, and did it under 40mins right there in the LOT. It would have been even quicker but I made a few mistakes. All in all, one of the easiest repairs you can do on this model car.
Thanks alot man!! I would love to see more of your repair vids.
Great video, just remember to remove the negative battery cable first not the positive.
Amazing video- thank you SO much. So detailed and not a step missing. My 2006 GT threw the legendary P0340 code last week at 52,000 miles and I'm replacing the alternator next week- this video tells me everything I need to know going in right down to what socket sizes.
I fuckin love you man i was over here stressing about taking it to a shop and spending a bunch of money but then i found your video and just took it out now in under 30 min you sir the fucking man
I really appreciate knowing which tools I will need and knowing to have the cleaners on hand. Well done Sir.
Really appreciate the video. I'll be using this as a guide to replace the alternator on my 2005 later today.
Reyone13 which 1 did u go with and how is it holding up
This is the perfect video for me. And probably for most people. It shows step-by-step every step that you need. Thank you
Awesome Video! Very Detailed and Basic/ Simple Instructions. It Made Replacing The Alternator A Breeze!!! Kudos Brotha! ✌😎
Thanks for the great video. My alternator died tonight. I'll be replacing my in the morning.
So much simpler than I would have thought. Thinking I would do it when I change the belt and tensioner. Thanks.
Great video. Was very helpful. Im no mechanic and was able to complete the job with no problems.
RUBICONTJ - I just used your video to help my son replace the alternator on his 2007 GT. Kudos to you and thanks for taking the time to post this. Well done and take care dude!!!!!
This is the best video on alternator replacement for 06 gt
Thanks a lot, watching your video I was able to replace my son's alternator, and I am is mother😀
darnellnicole glad it helped, have a good weekend.!
I think our 06 is on its 4th alternator replacement which I'll confirm this afternoon. Well good video.
This video helped me out soo much , couldve been done with this job in about 45 minutes but trying to muscle than tensioner gave me problems lol
Thanks so much for this video. I just replaced mine on my own with your guidance.
i am going to attempt this tomorrow. but great video you made the steps clear and made it easy to follow so thanks
I will be attempting this tomorrow! Thanks Rubicontj!
John McLane Take your time it willl be easy for you, let me know how it goes
I appreciate this video. You were very good with giving detailed instructions.
Thank you for the video. One small correction. The bolts on the bottom of the alternator were 15mm on mine,
Thank you bro, video saved me so much trouble today ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Wow. Your video helped. I did it and DROVE my car to work. Seriously thx
Great video! Thanks you made my job easy!!! Nice work my man!!!!!
Never place a wrench on the positive battery terminal without first disconnecting the negative terminal unless you think you might enjoy a little welding if you accidentally touch the wrench to any other metal part on the car.
For this work, just disconnecting the negative terminal is sufficient.
ok sir, you seem to know a lot, I trust your judgement. here in los angeles, most mechanics are telling me to buy a new alternator for my 2007 Mustang GT because buying from autozone might cause me to replace it again within a year or so. they claim that the alternators form autozone might not pump the precise voltage that my mustang requires, and that it might damage other things... "i recommend you buy OEM motorcraft so that your car can run smooth" that's what they keep telling me
I am an electrical engineer, so it's kind of my job to know a lot about this stuff. It's true that quality of components is important. I replaced the alternator on my daughter's 2006 Mustang with one she bought at Advance Auto Parts. Everything checked out. It worked for less than a week and failed. I was out of town at the time and it cost us a tow. I removed it, she exchanged it, I reinstalled it and did all the checks again including grounding. Everything checked out again. So far, so good, but that was only two months ago. Either way, you're going to pay. I would replace any alternator that is not outputting between 14 and 15 volts. More than 13V will keep the battery charged. Less than 16V will not harm any OEM equipment. Also, it's good to check for any AC component that that might be superimposed on the DC bias (rectifier failure). That can easily hurt things. Just flip your meter to VAC while you're checking the the voltage as I described. It should be negligible (tens of mV).
This video is great I changed mine today and it works just fine very helpfull thank you for this video
I'm thinking of getting this '06 Mustang 4.6L V8 I saw in a lot but from the blogs , looks like alternators & batteries are easily fried especially on '06. Is that the problem you're facing on ur GT? Is there any countermeasures you know of? , btw, great video RUBICONTJ
The replacement alternators from www.americanmuscle.com are a much better improvement over parts store aftermarket ones. Another thing you need to look up is changing the spark plugs on these, tough job!!! Buying a Tuner is addictive!! A lot of fun with the tuner. Get one 😀
Great video. What type of alternator did you go with? I have an 08 GT and think my alternator is having issues. The forums say that the Motorcraft 6G alternators are garbage and that the Denso version designed for the 2009 and 2010 are better. What do you think?
I've got one word for you my friend "TRIPOD" ! Thanks for the video !
Great video bro! I don’t know crap about cars, but now I feel confident to try. Is there any complications if I also have a Whipple supercharger?
Amazing video, thanks for posting it!
wow youre a legend. thanks for this 👍🏿
You're welcome
Thanks for the video man!
Thanks, Gonna give it a try tomorrow.
Thanks man you helped me fix my car great video
Those forums also say to use brake cleaner instead of carburetor cleaner. To prevent removing the factory coating on the throttle body.
NOOOO! Throttle Body cleaner is the better thing to use!
You kinda skipped the part when you tightened the belt. All you did was adjust tensioner? Is there any specific tension or torque measure I need to get it to?
It is a spring loaded tensioner, once the belt is back in correct routing,, the spring automatically put the proper tension on the belt. So when you reinstall the belt, you must use the breaker bat to hold the tensioner allowing the belt to be fully installed. Hope that helps.
Yeah, that worked out nicely. However, the local part store sold me a bad alternator which fried the positive battery cable when I re connected the ground battery terminal... New alternator tomorrow, and hopefully I can get a cable off a junked mustang since the cable is dealer sale only.
Great Video. Thanks
Perfect video!!! Thank you this helped a lot!!
What kind of alternator did you use and have you had any issues? I need to change mine and I don't know what I should use. It's driving me insane.
Awesome video. Super helpful.
thank you for the video. great job!
quick question. I replaced my alternator because my car stalled a few nights ago. (three months ago i also changed battery). After the replacement, the car computer system was rebooting. I noticed that my car stalled everytime I turned on the ac. If i turned off the ac, the car wouldn't stall at all. Any solutions as to why the ac shuts off the engine?
I thought it was proper to disconnect the Negative terminal first?!
Thanks a million!
they are charging me 1000 to replace my alternator at ford . they say mine has a bad diode . they are charging me 600+ and the rest is tge labor work . are they over charging me
YES! DO IT YOURSELF!
Awesome thanks so much!
did this get rid of that code? I also have the same code
Yes it did, you may need a code reader to erase it, I erased the code before I replaced the alternator and it came right back. Once alternator is replaced I cleared it and never came back
Thanks for the video
What is the best way to trouble shoot the alternator?
I would go to Autozone, Advanced Auto or a similar parts store that will come out to your car with their handheld computer and they can test it right in the parking lot. Most test for free because they are hoping for your business if they detect a bad part. If the alternator is already off the same holds true, most part stores will test it inside the store for free. Good luck.
Thanks the car died on me tonight so hopefully I'll get it figured out soon
+Badxp3riment how's your car situation now ?
With the engine running and all accessories on (headlights, AC, radio, etc.), use a voltmeter to check the voltage at the battery terminals. A healthy charging system will output about 14 to 14.5 VDC, but anything over 12.6VDC will keep the battery charged. I would replace the alternator if it's outputting less than about 13.5VDC under those conditions. If that's the case, it's probably failing and could leave you stranded.
+Seth Irwin thanks for the help. both alt and battery went bad. which went first I am not too sure, more likely the alt.
hello , you know where is the thermostat?
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
Inside the hose
Did you get the Alternator from Auto Zone or Ford
?
I looked it up, I bought it online at Americanmuscle.com
Ok Thanks
awesome thanks
Hi, could you please give me the number of alternator bracket for this car?
You need the part number for the bracket?
If you please, I need the same one you show in the video
excellent job but the negative should be disconnected instead of the positive.... I need to put one in my 2005 GT this weekend.... I wasn't getting any trouble codes but the 2 year old battery needed jumped three times... went straight to Advance Auto after the third jump; they tested the battery and alternator.... alternator was putting out 13.8 volts but when all accessories where turned on, the voltage dropped to 13.7 instead of going up.... UPDATE ---- See link for alternator removal process if you do not want to remove the throttle body.... 1.cdn.lib.americanmuscle.com/files/95310-95320-cust.pdf
13.7V is a little low, but it will keep the battery charged. The open-circuit voltage of a six-cell lead-acid battery is 6*2.1V=12.6V. Anything over that will charge the battery. Anything less means the battery is not charging and you are drawing energy from it and it will eventually drain.
Yes, that's typical of battery failure. If the car runs fine once it's started but the battery won't hold a charge and is dead next time you go out to start it a day or two later, the battery is failing. A good way to do a preliminary load test on the battery is to try to fully charge it, then place your voltmeter across the battery terminals while you have a helper start the vehicle. If the battery terminal voltage drops below 9VDC while cranking, the battery is failing or it doesn't have sufficient capacity to start your engine (it's fully functional but too wimpy). And that can kill a starter motor too.
yes NEGATIVE NEGATIVE NEGATIVE - he's lucky he didn't touch any ground or this would have ended badly