Hey man, good deal! Makes me feel good to know I helped someone else! I’m no professional by any means, but I can promise you I got plenty of intel before I did these video’s, couldn’t afford to screw my own build up! Lol
Man thanks so much! I’ve watched most of them, if not all on Can-Am builds, and my complaint was most of them, were too dark, or you couldn’t really see what they were doing, I mean you knew what they were doing, but you couldn’t see it because were the camera was! Anyways, my whole goal was to just help the next guy!
@@mudhawgmafia3896 I own 3 800 outlanders..1 is puking coolant out of radiator cap and steaming from exhaust..is it the dreaded head gasket? Any help would be appreciated
@@georgevaughn8506 sounds like it is a head gasket, burning coolant, should be able to smell coolant burning out the exhaust. If you are gonna tear into this motor, I’d recommend not running a thermostat, I live in Arkansas, warmer claimant, but that will allow your coolant to constantly circulate. You just run another gasket in place of the thermostat. If you do a lot of mudding, put your fan on a switch, sometimes fans can fail because they’ve gotten clogged up with mud, and you don’t realize it till it’s overheated.
@@mudhawgmafia3896 great info,thanks. Yes we do alot of mud riding here in west ky. All three bikes have rad kits and experienced no issues until last summer when I dont the timing chain upgrade on my yellow 07...was fine for.months then started it one morning and.noticed steam from exhaust and within minutes radiator cap was boiling over with fan running . Should have watched your videos on head tourqe sequence...I bet thats my issues..and I used the same gaskets
@@georgevaughn8506 ahhhh anytime you pull heads off, always use new gaskets. And off the top of my head I don’t recall the factory torque specs. What I use in the video is higher because of the new compression I’m running (went from factory 9 something to 12:1 compression). And with the ARP head studs, allows for more clamping pressure, keeping the explosion’s in the combustion chamber and not blowing the heads off! Lol
Good video. Nice lookin motor. How does the 975 cylinder wall thickness compare to the stock 800? I figured they'd be a bit thinner idk if that makes it any less reliable
Probably without measuring, a 1/4 to 1/3 of the thickness of the stock 800. So many people have their opinions but I’ve spoken extensively with Stephen at Mr RPM about that. They basically say to just take more care of doing more routine maintenance, oil changes, valve adjustments, etc. if you ride in a lot of mud, change your oil more often for instance. I’m also not running a thermostat, so coolant is constantly circulating. And put your fan on a led lite switch, so you know it’s on for instance, run it all the time. Those two things will improve engine cooling.
Hey, I appreciate that, and yes I did. I know there’s a few things I left out but for the most part I just was hoping to help the next guy. A lot of info and/or being able to see what they were doing, frustrated me with all the other videos out there, so hopefully I did a better job? Anyways, the bike is at the tuner, being tuned with a laptop and dyno. I will post videos of it running once back. Had some set backs basically with factory wiring, wires broken at factory solders below the fuse box. I’ve pretty much rebuilt the whole bike. Lots of pictures of that stuff on my Instagram page “Mud Hawg Mafia” thank you again for the comment!
It was an 800 renegade originally that I traded a 660 grizzly for! I literally got it home and decided to completely rebuild the bike, upgrade all the week points, never actually rode it but maybe 50 yards total. The day I finished it, took it down the road and it spun a rod bearing!!! Seriously no joke! That’s what started the motor build! Lots of info on our Instagram page “Mud Hawg Mafia” about the complete bike build, check it out!
Good video but could not help to notice it looked like you were 180 degrees out of time on the rear head I think the lines on head 2 should be on top parallel with the ground when cylinder one is in time. Was just wondering if you had issues when you fired it up.
No it was correct, been riding bike for about a year now. I always set front cylinder time first, then rotate rear piston to top dead center then set time on rear. Cam gear and chain is not placed on cam until corresponding piston is at TDC. Built several motors now, set time same way. The lines on cam gears are always on bottom, closest and parallel to head. Got a buddy who does all my tuning for me on his dyno, trust me if I screwed up he’d let me know! Lol He’s a licensed Can-Am technician, basically a genius with Building big bore Can-Am motors and tuning. Appreciate you checking out my videos though.
Basically when one piston is at TDC on a Can-Am the lines on that cam gear will be parallel to the corresponding head, but the other one will not be as you described, not sure why, maybe it has to do with the degree angles of the heads??? Never really thought about it….
I agree. I’m asking myself how this is running? At 1:33 into the video when your talking about the 2 lines that are parrrlel to the floor under the camshaft. Should be parallel to the floor as shown but on the top of the camshaft. and the other piston is at TdC parallel with the head. When timing is on , 1 piston will be parallel with the head the other piston the lines will be parallel with the floor but on the top of the center of the camshaft.
@@mudhawgmafia3896 when 1 piston is TDC parallel with the head on the lines . The other piston the lines will be Parallel with the floor if timed correctly on the top of the camshaft. At 1:33 into the video that is not correct. 🤷♂️
Brother I’m not gonna argue with you over something like that, but I’ve actually rebuilt that motor one other time after I made those videos, sunk the bike. But I set time the same way, along with 11 other Can-Am motors I’ve built! Maybe it’s something to do with the degree of Can-Am V-twins? But I don’t even really care because every single one of them still running. I good buddy of mine who builds high output Can-Am’s, has his own dyno in his garage, actually tuned several the bikes for me, including mine and my son’s fully built 860 renegade!
Man good, been riding it over 2 years now! Now they will run hotter than normal because of the thin cylinder walls! Needs an oil change about every 2-3 rides because of fuel tuning, she requires more than most! But honestly, my son has the 860 kit, same everything else as mine, heads/cams/clutching/tuning, etc. Much more trail friendly build!
What tuner do you run? I am building a 975 with maverick heads big injectors and 800r intake. I want to get a dobeck afr but can't get one at this time. I have an ejk tuner but ot sure how close it will get me.
Dynojet power commander 5 tuner, you got to use a tuner that can be tuned with a laptop, not one of the typical “ blinky box’s”. Preferably someone who has a dyno as well. As far as injectors, you don’t need anything more than stock Maverick injectors either. Those injectors have plenty of adjustability in them as it is with the right tuner and a guy who knows what he’s doing tuning Can-Am’s. I was fortunate to become friends with a Can-Am engine builder/tuner near me, which also has a dyno! The guy is a legend in the Can-Am racing world. The 975 motors with run hotter so you have to tune them on the rich side. They basically are meant for racing, straight line full throttle stuff! Honestly a high compression 860 is a better option. Built one for my son, same heads, cams, tuner, clutches as mine, and she’s a bad bitch! I have an Instagram page @mudhawgmafia with his build and others, check it out! My son’s renegade is the red/black one, my renegade is all black with red bumper.
@@mudhawgmafia3896 thanks for the reply. Unfortunately no one close to me has a dyno. So I was looking at pcv with auto tune or Dobeck afr plus or anything that I wouldn't need a dyno for.
Hello there was wondering if you could help I have a 2010 can am renegade xxc I have no power steering could you tell me what’s best to check or would I need to do a reset Iv got it booked in for diagnostics to check it over no codes showing also cheers craig
My sons is a 2011 XXC with pwr steering also. I know those are controlled partially by your dash display which is linked to the ecu, first thing I would check is your fuse box up front, pretty sure it is fused and maybe blown???
@@craigbenjamin6320 it’s possible your display may be in the beginning stages of going out? Most of the time what causes that, is they get moisture in them. If you play in the water in mud, it happens to all of them. I’ve replaced mine, not cheap-about $350
Hello again Iv checked the fuses and thay all seem fine I can’t find a diagram to go off would it be the same as the xt 800 also there’s 3 fuses at the back could you tell me what thay should be I have 1 30 amp 2 30 amp an 3 40amp is this correct cheers craig
Yes, they have to be on bottom or you will have one cylinder 180 degrees outta time!!! It will probably start but basically only be running on one cylinder! What happens when a cylinder is 180 degrees out of time, is fuel and spark happens when the piston is on the down stroke (instead at TDC) flooding the cylinder and not burning the fuel! Trust me I know from experience, accidentally had the rear cylinder outta time on an outlander motor I’d built, took me over a month to realize that! Lol
@@mudhawgmafia3896 any experience on what to do if the lines are at the top? I feel like I’ve tried everything and I’m not sure where to go from here. 🤦🏼♀️
Well in my case it was a lot harder because the motor was already back in the bike. But it you still have in on the bench, you’ll have to take the heads back off, I always set the front first, rotate the piston to top dead center, verifying that with the No. 1 timing mark on the flywheel, place head (torque it down) on along with cam gear/chain (make sure timing marks on cam gear on the bottom) Then rotate the rear piston to TDC, verifying with the No. 2 mark on flywheel, place head on and torque down, cam gear/ chain, with marks on cam gear on bottom. Hopefully this helps?
Still going strong over 2 years now! I change the oil every 2-3 rides, I know that sounds excessive but with all that’s done to this motor and the fuel requirements, you got too because the oil gets thinned out. 975’s run hotter because of the thin cylinder walls, but you can combat that by running it a lil on the rich side. Makes about what a 1000 with a 1018 big bore would. Clutching is also very important in maximizing power, which I’m running STM primary/secondary.
I’m in the process of getting the stuff around for this build myself. I’m running a qsc rev x rmt clutch but on stock tires. Getting set up for drag racing. Do you happen to have a fuel map that you can send to me?
Man I actually have my fuel maps on my laptop out in my shop, you’d have to get with me later and I could email it to you? I’m running Mr rpm Maverick race heads and their Mav race cams, bored throttle body 46mm to a 51mm, flashed ecu and dynojet power commander 5. Honestly the cams would be probably good for the drag racing and their really meant to make most of power at high rpm, full throttle. I’m fixing to switch to Bomb cams because they make more power at lower rpm and have a smoother power curve. Better for the mud riding I do. I’ve never raced my bike. My buddy who’s tuned it, wrote the fuel maps, and also retuned my clutches, he’s ate up with it, been begging me to drag race it! Lol I recently did a stretch in the rear, 3 inches, because it wanted to wheelie so bad, so that’s tamed that a little. Check out my Instagram page @mudhawgmafia, you can see all my mods I’ve done on there! Mines all black with red suspension, bronze wheels.
Big thanks to you man, I watched these videos over and over and I rebuild my first can am motor! She's up and running! Thanks man
Hey man, good deal! Makes me feel good to know I helped someone else! I’m no professional by any means, but I can promise you I got plenty of intel before I did these video’s, couldn’t afford to screw my own build up! Lol
Your video's are incredible, the best I've seen
Man thanks so much! I’ve watched most of them, if not all on Can-Am builds, and my complaint was most of them, were too dark, or you couldn’t really see what they were doing, I mean you knew what they were doing, but you couldn’t see it because were the camera was! Anyways, my whole goal was to just help the next guy!
@@mudhawgmafia3896 I own 3 800 outlanders..1 is puking coolant out of radiator cap and steaming from exhaust..is it the dreaded head gasket? Any help would be appreciated
@@georgevaughn8506 sounds like it is a head gasket, burning coolant, should be able to smell coolant burning out the exhaust. If you are gonna tear into this motor, I’d recommend not running a thermostat, I live in Arkansas, warmer claimant, but that will allow your coolant to constantly circulate. You just run another gasket in place of the thermostat. If you do a lot of mudding, put your fan on a switch, sometimes fans can fail because they’ve gotten clogged up with mud, and you don’t realize it till it’s overheated.
@@mudhawgmafia3896 great info,thanks. Yes we do alot of mud riding here in west ky. All three bikes have rad kits and experienced no issues until last summer when I dont the timing chain upgrade on my yellow 07...was fine for.months then started it one morning and.noticed steam from exhaust and within minutes radiator cap was boiling over with fan running . Should have watched your videos on head tourqe sequence...I bet thats my issues..and I used the same gaskets
@@georgevaughn8506 ahhhh anytime you pull heads off, always use new gaskets. And off the top of my head I don’t recall the factory torque specs. What I use in the video is higher because of the new compression I’m running (went from factory 9 something to 12:1 compression). And with the ARP head studs, allows for more clamping pressure, keeping the explosion’s in the combustion chamber and not blowing the heads off! Lol
Well I got mine together and tuned at mr rpm made 77.61 hp. I was hoping for over 80 but owell
head Timing gear lines are Parrelle to the head assembly, not perpendicular!
Good video. Nice lookin motor. How does the 975 cylinder wall thickness compare to the stock 800? I figured they'd be a bit thinner idk if that makes it any less reliable
Probably without measuring, a 1/4 to 1/3 of the thickness of the stock 800. So many people have their opinions but I’ve spoken extensively with Stephen at Mr RPM about that. They basically say to just take more care of doing more routine maintenance, oil changes, valve adjustments, etc. if you ride in a lot of mud, change your oil more often for instance. I’m also not running a thermostat, so coolant is constantly circulating. And put your fan on a led lite switch, so you know it’s on for instance, run it all the time. Those two things will improve engine cooling.
Great detailed video! would like to see it running! I assume you had the MrRPM Crankshaft Holding Tool when torquing the cam bolts?
Hey, I appreciate that, and yes I did. I know there’s a few things I left out but for the most part I just was hoping to help the next guy. A lot of info and/or being able to see what they were doing, frustrated me with all the other videos out there, so hopefully I did a better job?
Anyways, the bike is at the tuner, being tuned with a laptop and dyno. I will post videos of it running once back. Had some set backs basically with factory wiring, wires broken at factory solders below the fuse box. I’ve pretty much rebuilt the whole bike. Lots of pictures of that stuff on my Instagram page “Mud Hawg Mafia” thank you again for the comment!
@@mudhawgmafia3896 Best video I have found for sure! Awesome i'll check the Instagram out.
Thanks for the video series! Was this a former 800cc motor or a 850cc or 900cc?
It was an 800 renegade originally that I traded a 660 grizzly for! I literally got it home and decided to completely rebuild the bike, upgrade all the week points, never actually rode it but maybe 50 yards total. The day I finished it, took it down the road and it spun a rod bearing!!! Seriously no joke! That’s what started the motor build! Lots of info on our Instagram page “Mud Hawg Mafia” about the complete bike build, check it out!
Good video but could not help to notice it looked like you were 180 degrees out of time on the rear head I think the lines on head 2 should be on top parallel with the ground when cylinder one is in time.
Was just wondering if you had issues when you fired it up.
No it was correct, been riding bike for about a year now. I always set front cylinder time first, then rotate rear piston to top dead center then set time on rear. Cam gear and chain is not placed on cam until corresponding piston is at TDC. Built several motors now, set time same way. The lines on cam gears are always on bottom, closest and parallel to head. Got a buddy who does all my tuning for me on his dyno, trust me if I screwed up he’d let me know! Lol
He’s a licensed Can-Am technician, basically a genius with Building big bore Can-Am motors and tuning. Appreciate you checking out my videos though.
Basically when one piston is at TDC on a Can-Am the lines on that cam gear will be parallel to the corresponding head, but the other one will not be as you described, not sure why, maybe it has to do with the degree angles of the heads??? Never really thought about it….
I agree. I’m asking myself how this is running? At 1:33 into the video when your talking about the 2 lines that are parrrlel to the floor under the camshaft. Should be parallel to the floor as shown but on the top of the camshaft. and the other piston is at TdC parallel with the head. When timing is on , 1 piston will be parallel with the head the other piston the lines will be parallel with the floor but on the top of the center of the camshaft.
@@mudhawgmafia3896 when 1 piston is TDC parallel with the head on the lines . The other piston the lines will be Parallel with the floor if timed correctly on the top of the camshaft.
At 1:33 into the video that is not correct.
🤷♂️
Brother I’m not gonna argue with you over something like that, but I’ve actually rebuilt that motor one other time after I made those videos, sunk the bike. But I set time the same way, along with 11 other Can-Am motors I’ve built! Maybe it’s something to do with the degree of Can-Am V-twins? But I don’t even really care because every single one of them still running. I good buddy of mine who builds high output Can-Am’s, has his own dyno in his garage, actually tuned several the bikes for me, including mine and my son’s fully built 860 renegade!
i'm from brazil we have a can am 570 here it doesn't burn the rear piston what can it be give me a tip i'm almost crazy here..
How's that 975 holding up I have a 800 I'm thinking of the 975 kit
Man good, been riding it over 2 years now! Now they will run hotter than normal because of the thin cylinder walls! Needs an oil change about every 2-3 rides because of fuel tuning, she requires more than most! But honestly, my son has the 860 kit, same everything else as mine, heads/cams/clutching/tuning, etc.
Much more trail friendly build!
What tuner do you run? I am building a 975 with maverick heads big injectors and 800r intake. I want to get a dobeck afr but can't get one at this time. I have an ejk tuner but ot sure how close it will get me.
Dynojet power commander 5 tuner, you got to use a tuner that can be tuned with a laptop, not one of the typical “ blinky box’s”. Preferably someone who has a dyno as well.
As far as injectors, you don’t need anything more than stock Maverick injectors either. Those injectors have plenty of adjustability in them as it is with the right tuner and a guy who knows what he’s doing tuning Can-Am’s. I was fortunate to become friends with a Can-Am engine builder/tuner near me, which also has a dyno! The guy is a legend in the Can-Am racing world.
The 975 motors with run hotter so you have to tune them on the rich side. They basically are meant for racing, straight line full throttle stuff! Honestly a high compression 860 is a better option. Built one for my son, same heads, cams, tuner, clutches as mine, and she’s a bad bitch! I have an Instagram page @mudhawgmafia with his build and others, check it out! My son’s renegade is the red/black one, my renegade is all black with red bumper.
@@mudhawgmafia3896 thanks for the reply. Unfortunately no one close to me has a dyno. So I was looking at pcv with auto tune or Dobeck afr plus or anything that I wouldn't need a dyno for.
You must be building an early Gen 2 motor/ecu???
@@mudhawgmafia3896 Its a gen 1 renegade. I will have to have the maverick heads machined for timing chain holes and cam sensor.
Definitely go with PC5 with auto tune, it’ll help get your fuel maps close.
what's up brother
can you pass me the timing diagram of a 1000 can am 2013 engine please and good video
Hello there was wondering if you could help I have a 2010 can am renegade xxc I have no power steering could you tell me what’s best to check or would I need to do a reset Iv got it booked in for diagnostics to check it over no codes showing also cheers craig
My sons is a 2011 XXC with pwr steering also. I know those are controlled partially by your dash display which is linked to the ecu, first thing I would check is your fuse box up front, pretty sure it is fused and maybe blown???
Ok I shall try that tomorrow an also keep coming up park brake on display I have no idea y ? Cheers Craig
@@craigbenjamin6320 it’s possible your display may be in the beginning stages of going out? Most of the time what causes that, is they get moisture in them. If you play in the water in mud, it happens to all of them. I’ve replaced mine, not cheap-about $350
Hello again Iv checked the fuses and thay all seem fine I can’t find a diagram to go off would it be the same as the xt 800 also there’s 3 fuses at the back could you tell me what thay should be I have 1 30 amp 2 30 amp an 3 40amp is this correct cheers craig
@@craigbenjamin6320 those fuses/relays in the back all have to do with starting/charging etc.
one or two of them are just dummy fuses or spares.
Is it abnormal if the parallel lines are at the top rather than the bottom?
Yes, they have to be on bottom or you will have one cylinder 180 degrees outta time!!! It will probably start but basically only be running on one cylinder! What happens when a cylinder is 180 degrees out of time, is fuel and spark happens when the piston is on the down stroke (instead at TDC) flooding the cylinder and not burning the fuel!
Trust me I know from experience, accidentally had the rear cylinder outta time on an outlander motor I’d built, took me over a month to realize that! Lol
@@mudhawgmafia3896 any experience on what to do if the lines are at the top? I feel like I’ve tried everything and I’m not sure where to go from here. 🤦🏼♀️
Well in my case it was a lot harder because the motor was already back in the bike. But it you still have in on the bench, you’ll have to take the heads back off, I always set the front first, rotate the piston to top dead center, verifying that with the No. 1 timing mark on the flywheel, place head (torque it down) on along with cam gear/chain (make sure timing marks on cam gear on the bottom)
Then rotate the rear piston to TDC, verifying with the No. 2 mark on flywheel, place head on and torque down, cam gear/ chain, with marks on cam gear on bottom. Hopefully this helps?
So how did this motor hold up and power wise?
Still going strong over 2 years now! I change the oil every 2-3 rides, I know that sounds excessive but with all that’s done to this motor and the fuel requirements, you got too because the oil gets thinned out. 975’s run hotter because of the thin cylinder walls, but you can combat that by running it a lil on the rich side. Makes about what a 1000 with a 1018 big bore would. Clutching is also very important in maximizing power, which I’m running STM primary/secondary.
I’m in the process of getting the stuff around for this build myself. I’m running a qsc rev x rmt clutch but on stock tires. Getting set up for drag racing. Do you happen to have a fuel map that you can send to me?
Man I actually have my fuel maps on my laptop out in my shop, you’d have to get with me later and I could email it to you?
I’m running Mr rpm Maverick race heads and their Mav race cams, bored throttle body 46mm to a 51mm, flashed ecu and dynojet power commander 5.
Honestly the cams would be probably good for the drag racing and their really meant to make most of power at high rpm, full throttle. I’m fixing to switch to Bomb cams because they make more power at lower rpm and have a smoother power curve. Better for the mud riding I do. I’ve never raced my bike. My buddy who’s tuned it, wrote the fuel maps, and also retuned my clutches, he’s ate up with it, been begging me to drag race it! Lol
I recently did a stretch in the rear, 3 inches, because it wanted to wheelie so bad, so that’s tamed that a little. Check out my Instagram page @mudhawgmafia, you can see all my mods I’ve done on there! Mines all black with red suspension, bronze wheels.
Race heads, race cam, race intake and 54mm throttle body, full exhaust with qsc primary still have stock secondary. Ecu tuned also