How To Cut Stringers | This Trick Changes Everything
Vložit
- čas přidán 4. 06. 2024
- In this video I am going to show you how to figure the rise and run of the stair stringer.I am also going to show you the easiest and quickest method to cut a stair stringer yourself. This saves you money not having to buy the precut ones at the hardware store.After this you will be a stair making FOOL!
Im a carpenter of 40 years. I watch videos like this to sometimes get another perspective on things. And sometimes remind me of something I forgot. You did a fine job. Thanks
Thanks
Me too... you said it exactly
Funny, because from your profile picture you don't look a day over 21
40 years , and you use a template ?????
I'm a retired carpenter and I use a framing square and a set of "dogs", no time to build a "template", but I can see how this would help a non-carpenter.
I'm a retired framing carpenter. I was full time for 34 years and have cut hundreds of stairs in.
This is a fine idea. It's much easier and more accurate than just a framing square, buttons or not.Sliding that board along instead of adjusting the framing square, riding squarely on a wide area instead of buttons slipping over the rounded edge or catching in divots, it's perfectly fine. Good job!
Thanks hope it helps
Nothing is more accurate than a finely made framing square Mr..
i have to say a framing square with buttons is quicker easier and more accurate.. someone who uses this method is likely a home owner or beginner, their cutting and line placement likely isnt perfect yet, if theyre off by even an eight on the cuts thatll add up for each step.. a 12 stair run and theyll be out an inch and a half
its far easier to get buttons accurate on a square.. and if you dont have buttons and just place the square with marks on your measurements atleast if you place it off an 1/8" youre only changing one step the 1/8" youre not gonna place every stair an eight short in the same direction
Totally agree👍
I've been a carpenter never and I feel like this is a joke! Why wouldn't you just buy them already cut at Lowes. How stubborn we can be!
I've been a carpenter for 20-plus years and we were always taught to work smarter not harder and this kid's idea seems pretty smart to me. Great job buddy, I like your idea 👍
Thanks hope it was a help
I’m a retired builder and wish I had known this sliding jig method 40 years ago! I’m sure my Framing Square would have spent more time in the truck! You can teach an old framer new tricks!😊 Great lesson young man!
Thanks
🤣🤣🤣 You expect anybody to believe that?
People are always stealing my square so who needs one?
Well said mate 👍
I've been using this method for just a little over 40 years. Shared it with dozens, but this is the first time I've ever seen it presented by someone else, bravo! Here are a few small differences; 1) I typically cut the guide block slightly short of the triangle corners so that I can get into tight places, 2) for extreme accuracy, I'll hold a tape measure against the riser leg of the guide as I mark the "pattern", 3) save the guide block for later use when laying out the newel posts, pickets, trim stringers, and etc,
Thanks for the tips especially for a first timer and old timer like myself 👍 8:02
For accuracy, I never use a tape measure.
Wow!!! I will be 69 years young on my next birthday. I could learn soooo much from a good young teacher like you! I will save this video and use your very good instructions on a couple of upcoming projects. Thank you for posting this video!
Glad to hear you liked. Hope it helps out on tour next project. Thanks for watching!!
I’m a missionary in Ghana from the U.S. I had a project here to put A concrete stairway up 11’. I checked out CZcams for a video showing an easier way than a framing square. Yours was my third video and I looked no further. Today I cut my streamers and will finish my forms tomorrow. Easypezy!
Well I am glad it was a help. Especially to a missionary.
The jig is a nice idea. They make little clamps for framing squares to hold it where needed, but if you misplace them like I did years ago, then they.they don’t work so well. Only thing I would add is if your ground isn’t perfectly level, I’d cut the bottoms long, and scribe each of the stringers to the ground.
Yes those things are helpful on the square. Yes that could be done on ground that is not level. Mine was pretty close to level so I was able to make it level pretty easily.
Yep, they’re called stair gauges.
Well just don't lose them. Beside they are getting so cheap nowadays that you can keep an extra set. Or as I do, I keep one of my MANY squares with the permanently on it.
Unless it's a side hill, level the ground somewhat ? . Throw a couple patio stones ?
Nice twist on an old idea. As far as scribing the stringer, we always put something flat under the stringer, brick, block, paver, anything level, ground tamped so it won’t settle. I for one, love seeing young guys in the trades. So many won’t work, want to play video games for a living, etc. The few that want to work, really impress me with their skills. Today, a person with skills can watch a video done by a professional, imitating what they did and it’s like being in an advanced apprentice program, fast forward! Here’s the bottom line, “are the rise and runs to code, are they cut straight, are the stringers level and supported. If all of those are done and you have a nice looking, finished product, who cares how you get there if you and/or the customer is safe and happy”. Some people need to lighten up, lol
I just use the stair buttons (what I call them) and clamp them on my framing square. Steps aren't always the same depending on the height of the rise. If you build a lot of stair stringers and don't want a couple dozen jigs to cart around then buy a set of stair buttons.
Been using that method for 20+ YEARS. Tried and true. Rise and run. I can appreciate another method but I'll stick with what I know.
I believe that if you watch the vid again the first step is to make your jig using part of the wood you are making the stringer out of. As each set of stairs is unique to its application the past jigs you used before are not the one you want now. That is why you make a new one for each job unless you are doing new construction where hopefully everything is mostly the same thing. Not any different than changing the stair buttons on your framing square, probably about the same speed once you get use to using the method without having to keep track or look for the buttons.
we always called them stair dogs
Good job. Im a carpenter of 33yrs. You did a fine job. Keep up the good work. Its your job to bring up the next generation 😁
Good job bro . People make this seem like it’s some kind of rocket science lol . Ridiculously easy . I’m tackling my first stringers tomorrow . Thanks buddy .
Yes sir hope it helps and thanks for watching!!
This was very well explained. You anticipated and addressed every question I had. Many thanks.
Glad it was of help
excellent ! Makes a confusing and potentially dangerous job a piece of cake…Carry on and know that your work is greatly appreciated!
Thanks glad it was of help
that's awsome I'm a old sheet rocker 33 years of hanging and another old sheet rocker showed me a similar trick like that years ago that I use to this day for cutting and notching my board around stairs when need be and I even used it on a round wall one time at the bottom of the stairs worked great big time saver !!!
I've been a carpenter for 25 years, and I'm always looking for ways to do something better and faster!!! I like this way, especially for people who are new at carpentry!!!!
Time is money and in this situation it is 100% faster then the standard!
I have to say, the very first thing you need to do is level the landing at the bottom of the stairs. This makes your stringer measurement very accurate.
Yes, spot on since a vertical measurement right at the top of the landing doesn't account for a different rise measurement on the grade, however many feet out from the TOL. If your grade slopes away from the building and you need to maintain it for drainage, you'd need an overall height measurement from a level line from the top of the landing taken where the run of the stair lands at the bottom at grade.
Retired construction inspector; we used to call them stair riser templates old days but as time went on got set of stair angle gauges that fit on steel square and slide back and forth to set very accurate angles after you got the total rise and run measurement. Great job explaining for the newbe carpenters .
if you have a sloped ground, be sure to check height at the point where the bottom step will land
Thanks so much for this help ! I am building a staircase into our new tree hut. 11 feet to the floor, so I need 16 steps. Your pattern makes this so easy, and I checked the steps before I start cutting, they are almost prefect level, just a tiny pitch for the water to drain................LOVE IT
Sweet glad it helped out
Thanks, very cool.
I used a framing square (not speed square) for laying out stringers and rafters. I have a very nice book from the early 20th century with every cut you'd ever want explained. I found brass stops designed for the squares (don't ask me how, without the internet!). You place two stops on the square and you basically have the same thing as your jig to layout steps, or step out rafters.
The first framing squares I ever used were marked in 16th's on one side and 12th's on the other side. The side marked in 12th's was a wonder when figuring rafter measurements.
Nice way to inform people of a grate way to step it up
Muy buena idea y muy práctico. Gracias por compartir tus conocimientos. 👍👍
So smart! Thank you! Ive been needing to recreate long stringers for my deck stairs and have been stressing about how to remove them and keep the best one intact to use as a pattern. After seeing this, im just gonna focus on the existing rise run triangle piece and get on with it when the weather is better. Great video
Well good with the project. Thanks for watching!!
Nice to see old school pro moves alive and well.
This is pretty simple, but most stairs are not quite so easy if you get into interior stairs. The math gets more complicated when you have a limited space for your run. Six to eight inches is always what I tried to get when figuring rise. Eight inches is a fairly steep set of stairs. Stairs and rafters were the hardest for a newbie to figure out and then cut.
I love it when a diy newbie rips out their stairs and attempts a “new look”. Brings a little extra work my way ;)
Good cheat is rise plus run should be as close to 18 as possible.. No less than 17 and no greater than 19 which would result in unnatural/uncomfortable strides and potential trip hazards.
Well you should do a video on a easy way to figure how to put stairs in where you don't have room like putting in landings, spiral stairs. And so forth
I noticed in the comments, several people are criticizing this simple and easy method for the Do It Yourselfers. If you critics are such experts, why are YOU watching a DIY channel on how to cut stringers? Amateurs built the ark, experts built the titanic!
Well said
The expert keeps up with his/her knowledge base by hiring someone else in the trade, watching videos, reading, expo's, etc. 'coz time is money. (Seeing a new thing even in an advert could change your world)
Your comment put a big smile on my face!!🤣
Good point... right on the money.
Mark Willie the negative comments arent from people watching so they learn how to do it, theyre watching to find fault, so they have something to criticise!
In regard to the ark and titanic, the build quality of the titanic wasnt the reason it sank. It was weakened metal caused by an undiscovered fire amongst the coal, which caused a side plate to split open when it glanced a side impact on the iceberg. If the story of the ark is true, it took Noah 120 years to build it so it should have been good!
Started carpentry work when I was 16, I'm now 70. When you were marking out the tread and risers, it reminded me of one of my first days on the job. I was squaring up some 2x4's with my newly acquired speed square, and the foreman asked me, if I was going to mark them through, or cut them.
I always like to leave a very faint line, especially on wet lumber, so if someone else is cutting, they gotta play the guessing game.....
@@maritimelogger1296
That's the reason I was taught to use a nail until the saw man started complaining, then I started using a railroad spike.
Super simple, definitely have added this to my tool belt!
Glad it helped
Thank you for the video. It is very helpful as I'm starting on my stairs today. I do have a question. At the marking segment of the video (4:00), You started the initial marking without any measuring. How do you know how far to start down the board to began marking the stringer? The part that would be the top of the stringer or stairs. Hopefully my question makes sense. Thank you!
I had the same question 🤔
It doesn't matter, use the cleanest part of the 2x6. He screwed up that part of the explanation. The top end of the stringer ends with a run not a rise. That first rise mark he made gets cut all way the way thru the board at that angle.
This is a great tip. Thanks for sharing!
No prob hope it helps
From a 44 year carpenter, good job but here is a pro tip for you. When measuring down to the ground, you should level out to the point where the stringers will contact the ground and take the measurement there. This takes into account the grade of the ground. It's not so necessary when building onto a flat surface but I do it anyway in case a 30 year carpenter built the flat surface.
What a great idea, I was a carpenter for twenty years
- framing and outside trimming-
And I found your way as easy piecy. Framing square is fine.
But your way I really like
S.A. Tx.
Excellent explanation to avoid the common first step mistake. Rather than building the jig you can use an L shaped square. Painters tape or clamps at 10 and 7 inches marks on each leg. Fast, accurate and reusable.
I love my squi-jig for this
This is useful to someone who likes to use jigs, Using your framing square, you could have all your stringers laid out and cut in the time it takes you to build this jig.
Maybe you could, but a DIY guy doing it once in his life can't.
If you stack your first stringer you cut on top of a 2nd board when you cut through it will mark your 2nd stringer for you and so on,another time saver and it is very accurate
Journeyman carpenter 20 years.i love this method.the last time i used a framing square and gauges for stairs was when i was a second year.i was lucky to work for a great old school roofer.
Thank you . This is indeed brilliant. I'm putting steps on my deck today. I've been horrified to tackle it. You took away my fear. Thank you brother
Good luck and glad it has helped.
Mark, I wouldn't pay attention to the people who don't like your videos! There's more of us who do appreciate what you're doing. Please keep your videos coming, your very much appreciated. Thank you.
that is a very stupid thing to say. First off, who is actually not liking his videos? Why are you changing, them criticizing his techniques, to not liking the videos? The people who don't pay attention to others and what they say, are the ones who will not get better. Rose colored glasses don't tell you the truth.
@@AztecWarrior69 I agree. There was no disclaimer in the video about other people's opinions not mattering. And sharing opinions does not equate to disliking.
@@6XXBANSHEEXX8 yup
Not a bad idea. I usually build my runners 11" so that two 2x6's work out right. Stairs used to scare me when I was first starting to do carpenter work but once you figure them out, you realize they're a cake walk as long as the odd step ends up on the bottom. Short top steps are very dangerous.
I've came in behind framers and ripped out several sets of steps Cause they didn't look at the prints to see what was going on top of the sub flooring 👍
I just got a 3 step stringer and used that as a pattern , but your way is much better when you have a little diff. in step high! Thanks
I learned in carpentry school to use a rafter/framing square. If you know how to use one properly, you can create stringers at any pitch of stairs. I learned how to determine the tread and riser length depending on the pitch. Nowadays everyone is looking for a shortcut.
One problem, you measured from your door threshold to the ground at the foundation. Stairs obviously extend away from the fountain, and hopefully there's some slope to take water away from the building. You'd be better off measuring out to the end of where the stingers will set, finding a level line from the threshold, and measuring down from there.
Hi Mark how do you come up with 10" for the run? Is that just standard for all stairs? Thank you for this video. I've always felt this was too hard and this makes it super accessible!!!
No the 10 can be whatever you want if you have the room. The bigger the number the further from the landing it will be. I like 10 cause it gives plenty of room to step onto.
@@projectdiy873 perfect thank you so much!
The riser plus the tread measurement should be as close to 18” as possible for a comfortable stride up or down the steps. Anything less than 17” or more than 19” will be difficult and dangerous to use for kids, elderly, or anyone with physical limitations. To pass inspection they need to fall in this range as well. That’s why you might notice some steps with short risers will have much wider treads. Good luck with your future projects!
The 10" number works good for your 5/4 board. If you have two 5.5" boards that makes it 11" giving you one inch for the nosing.
For an unlimited run, multiply the riser height by two. 2x7=14. Subtract 14 from 25 which = 11. The simple formula to determine the safest rise and run for each step is two times the rise plus the run to equal 25. To determine the number of steps, always divide the height by 7. 42 / 7 = 6 steps. The rise is always determined first. Hope this is helpful.
I lost my frame and square. Your jig came in so helpful on a repair job thank you
Glad it helped
Like the fact you use the simplest of methods, no fancy tools.👍😊
Another good tip for cutting stringers is stacking them and cutting 2 at once so they're exactly the same with no chance of error. Set your saw depth as far as it will go and run the saw slow for the added thickness. This will score through the bottom board and give you a perfect template of the top board.
Also don't change position
He did great in the video
Cut all one direction first
Hi Eric. When you put the jig on the first stringer, the riser edge of the jig was pulled down, away from the end of the stringer. How far was that and why? Thank you. 😁
I was looking for the answer to that myself
One thing I love about carpentry is theres always something learn. Always a slick trick you can learn from another guy, and choose to adopt it or not. Next time I have to do stairs Im gonna give this one a shot, see if I like it.
Exactly ! I remember years ago I had a way to layout and cut a radius UNTIL , I worked with another carpenter who I watched layout his radius , then cut it . Faster , then the way I did mine . I am retired now , but was always open to learn especially when someone had a better mousetrap .
Sir, I'm building steps for my deck now and I have looked at wayyyy to many videos on how to build steps! I was as confused as i could be UNTIL I LOOKED AT YOURRSSSS! wow, I think I have it now! Cant wait to get home and try this!
I am glad it was of help.
Yep Sir you dumbed it down for sure and don’t tell anyone, but I’m a math teacher and I needed a special ed teacher for this one…my goodness! No one started at the beginning! I just didn’t know how to get started from the first cut.
@@KymTube yes sir KISS is the simplest method. Glad it helped
This is a great trick. I build a lot of decks each year and this will save time and money. I build free standing decks like a champ but I always struggle with the step rail. I always get the damn thing just a little off and my spindles end up longer on one end than the other. Always looking to learn. Any input is much appreciated.
Hope it helps out on your next deck
Excellent video definitely takes a lot of the fear out of building some steps. One question I had was he mentioned the run was 10” but how did you come up with that number?
Just to have a nice wide step and using 5/4 decking it worked out as a nice number as well.
10” is the standard run for stringers
Usually the run for a step is determined by multiplying the riser height by 2 and then subtract that total from the #25 or #24. Each step should have a 1" overhang (nose) extending past the riser.
When you've got to have a lot of exact duplicates, it's best to come up with a jig or template. I'm an architect and I can tell you when we draw stairs we don't draw each line individually, one after another. We draw a single tread / riser and copy it toe-to-toe.
Great idea. I once used a square to do the lay out, what I didn't realize was the square measure marks from one side to the other didn't match, so my 'perfectly measured' treads were wonky, till I figured out the problem with my square. I am about to embark on another set of stairs. This will help me out, thanks.
Hope it helps. Thanks for watching!!
You should get the origindl measurement where the stairs actually will be touching down especially if they. R deck stringers landing in the yard
Just a simple diy guy here. Great explanation. I just can’t wrap my head around how the position of the very first mark on the 2x12 was determined. It’s up a few inches from the end not flush. What did I miss? How far from that end is that first mark? Is it at 7” like the rest of the risers, 7 minus tread thickness, or something totally different? The answer is probably in there I just can’t find it.
I just had it so I could get 2 pieces out of the same board
And im in agreement as well. 1st time seeing this and love the idea of making a jig, but I didn't see the starting point on the 2×12 when u started making ur lines. ..I probably missed something and the answer is in here somewhere, I just didn't see it or figure it out! Thx to u for doing this video, my amateur ass will take all the help I can get!
I'm a carpenter iv always just measured them out, i like this idea, it's neat and quick I think I'll give it a go next stairs I do. 👍
Hope it works well for you
I am a production and custom stair builder of 37 years. This idea is cute but a framing square with stair guides are the only way to layout a stair stringer. I would then trace my stringer out of plywood for a template to be accurate in over all length. If you used a cutoff piece like this guy is using your stringers would more than likely be a little different in overall length.
You should mention that as a rule of thumb the (rise inches + run inches) should add up to 17 or 17 1/2 inches just like your example. Also, many times exterior stairs are limited to 6 inches rise for safety.
...for safety and old people's knees!
@@choimdachoim9491 I made 3 1/2" door steps for my 94 year old mother. Next it will have to be a ramp.
@@simpleman283 Lucky Mom. Good Son.
@@simpleman283 God bless you for taking care of your mother
Sigh...7 and 11.
That's 18 bozo..
I've been doing this lately on my previous decks. I enjoy it more than a square
In a fraction of the time to make a one time use template, anyone with an often forgotten framing square can do the same task. You can buy clamps for a framing square that turn it into a template, or use blue tape to mark your registration lines.
You have to get an accurate measure @ the landing. Otherwise your screwed .....
I am a carpenter by trade , and have to say this is a great idea ,one I never thought of , but just watched and actually like better than the method I normally use (framing square with stringer nuts ) , I also believe this would be more accurate and efficient simply because you can gain a sixteenth here and there if your not paying attention when using a framing square . The other variable is the lumber he is using , its full of water , and will shrink . So if you use the same type of lumber , treated that is , dont cut your stringers one day , then install them the next day , you wont like the results . I have made that mistake and it can get expensive with todays lumber costs .
Thank you👌
I always thought it was pretty easy making stair stringers, though I do it so rarely that I always have to relearn- just measure everything 4 times and take your time, remeasure and be sure- 2x12s are expensive! I do gotta say though- this is brilliant! Also- do your first stringer and use it as a Stencil for the others you need instead of doing this every time- you could end up with things being slightly off if you repeat the process and don't use the first one you cut as a reference.
I should add too- those pre-cut stringers SUCK. Seriously- cut them yourself, it's worth it every time.
I saved your video. I'm currently building some stairs, and I really like the jig. I appreciate your video. Thank you.
No problem hope it helps out
As a professional carpenter and stair builder, the wood template is only going to be as accurate as your saw cuts and assembly. Any error is going to be transfered to the stringer and multiplied by the number of steps (typically 13.)
There's a reason why we typically use a framing square and stair gauges. Your stair-hack is nothing but an old carpenter trick and one who didn't happen to have the right tools on hand.
There's also a difference between rough, framing carpenters and finish carpenters. A rough carpenter would have no problem with such a template, whereas a finish carpenter might have some reservations.
In Michigan, it's code to have a minimum of a 3 ft landing in front of any access door. It's very awkward to use stairs in this configuration.
I appreciate your ingenuity, however, an inexpensive set of stair nuts to secure to your framing square really is a better option, in my opinion, having built over 50 sets of stairs, indoors and out.
Keep up your learning. Thanks for posting.
@Hello Neil how are you doing
I've lived on the KISS method.
Keeping it simple stupid and stupid simple it is. Great job!
Very simple to do. Great idea. Thank you
7" rise with 11" runs is the most comfortable stair.
Most common. Old people have a hard time with a 7 " riser so for them I go with a 6 .
Nice to see someone sticking to the old rule of thumb that 2 times the rise plus the run should total 25 to maintain a safe step under the NBC.
@@charliepatterson9321 Which in essence can and will create more steps. But I have done the same, even 5" steps.
@@davidmackay2353 yes sir . Old tymers with bad knees don't mind a 5" step either .
why do so many people think they need music in the background? don't they want us to hear them?
Why someone always complaining!
Nice video. Do you ever have an issue when finishing the cut, it's slightly off from the original? I used a miter saw to make the initial angle cuts, and then went back with a jigsaw since that was all I had. There wasn't a smooth transition, the jigsaw cut was sloppy looking and a little offset. I think it's because the blade bends easy on the jigsaw. I also tried a hand saw and was getting similar results. Any tips for this? I haven't tried the Sawzall though.
Yeah a swazall is your best option to finish it off and a regular skill saw is best for the initial cut as well if you have one. You definitely can make the others work just makes your job harder for sure.
@@projectdiy873 okay, sounds good. Thanks for the tips!
Yep no problem
A Sawzall works great because it's rigid. Alternatively, you can use a flush cut hand saw. (Wide bladed saw). I would also add in there Is a bit of familiarity at play here. Be sure that you use a scrap piece of wood with some practice cuts to build familiarity with new tools.
Just push the skill saw thru enough to cut the piece out. That little extra bit of cut made to just get the piece off with the skill saw isn't going to matter for squat strength wise. By the time everything is glued and screwed, those extra cuts are completely irrelevant. Saves the hassle of trying to fine tune it because it will already be perfectly cut thru.
Good job. I'm a finish carpenter for 35 years and now and then I need to help someone with stairs and all of a sudden I have to rember as I don't do it very often. Good job
👍 thanks for watching
I am a retired carpenter, Use a framing square and stair gauge clamps. You have a good idea, but a framing square has many functions. A lot of the old ways are forgotten or neglected. I see houses trimmed now, and the inside corners are mitered. Cope your corners, and keep the right ( I mean ) old ways. I was taught to trim with a homemade miter box.
Some old ways are better for sure
I used this method also stair gauges for my framing square. Sometimes the stair gauges can loosen up
Completely right .!!!
EASIEST WAY TO CUT STRINGERS, thanks man
That's a pretty clever idea i have cut a lot of steps with a square but that saves a lot of time
Great tips, I watched many videos but I like your idea. thank for the video
Yep no problem glad it helped and give us a like 👍
Thank you so much for just keeping it simple 🎉
Excellent Video - Thanks for making this.
No prob hope it helped
Nice job. What would have been nice to see is how those went together after you finished cutting them out.
Great trick! Thanks for sharing it. We use jigs & templates for other tasks. Makes sense that they’d be helpful for stairs too.
Hope it helps thanks for watching!!
Great job sir! Thank you
Yep glad it was a help
My father never crossed his circular saw cuts at inside corners, just finished them carefully with one of his super sharp hand saws. I'm still walking on a front porch, six-riser design he cut back in the mid '50s. The nails failed, but wood lives on.
You showed us probably the easiest way to lay out stringers I've seen. A lot easier than using a carpenter square and trying to hit the same marks each time. Also good to point out using the first one as the pattern for any other stringers you have to make. Thanks.
Glad it helped thanks for watching and the comment.
I think you are right ✅ I have done concert layout for high rise and bridge work.
good idea. i will be making stairs to an apt. above my shop for a rental. Never did this before and always scribed the store bought stringer in the store onto a board. My question is how did you get the 10 inch measurement?
That is just what I wanted for my steps. Sometimes if you have limited space they have to be a certain measurement. Mi e didn't so I made them 10 so I had a nice wide step to step on.
Very informative and way easier than how I learned.
I've never saw that way done before I've always used a framing square for them using numbers 7 and 11 that will work on most steps but I like your way if you don't have a framing square I think your way is faster n easier thank you
No problem hope it was a help
Wow!
Awesome stuff!
Thank you for the tip…
You made a very clear explanation in detail on getting the number of step for the risers and even explained the common number of inches for the rise, and the you pulled 10 inches out of the clear blue sky for the run of 10 inches. Where did that come from?
I used 2 pieces of decking board. With them together is like 11 so that gives a 1 inch over hang on your tread. If the distance from the landing doesn't matter you can make it whatever you want. I just wanted something nice and to step on instead of a narrow tread with not much room.
Awesome video !
Simplicity is the key to the happiness.
Thanks! Very well explained video so even I can understand how to do it now. I'm not a Carpenter but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
I hear ya lol... hope it helps you out.
Im about to build a small deck with stairs for my granddaughters mobile home and this Video helps me more than you can imagine. Thank you very much.@@projectdiy873
Very cool man thanks!! I like it that the stops on the square can't slide. I have screwed up stringers before by using a square with a framing square and the stops moved.
Have steps on a deck this week I'll try your jig idea!!!
Thanks brother!!!
Yes sir hope it works well for you!!
Hey Eric,
Maybe you can help. I need to build a set of stringers with a different problem. The steps from my side porch go to a concrete surface that slopes from left to right. Right now it is four steps on the left and three on the right. Got any advice?
JACK HAMMER.....Thats an insane way to run stringers....
Nice, I also use a gig to rin the saw up against, then finish with jigsaw!
Great job young man! Happy to see there's someone share a good trick to carpentry trade.
Hope it helps thanks for watching!!
Cool idea with the jig if you don’t have a framing square.🇯🇲
Thank you for sharing. What sounds like a family secret. If you came up with that yourself, you started the family secret I think God for you young man and I pray that he will continue to bless you with work that you can use your skills to provide for your family and glorify him. Thanks again big help.
Glad it was a help!!
Very good video, a production framer showed me this technique many years ago. Treads not run, run being the total distance horizontally in your example 60".
It's called rise and run. Treads are the depth of each step. Run is the overall horizontal measurement.
@@johnstack4316 I see, Thanks.
Excellent ! Thank you so much !
AWESOME jig , this is great! im stealing the idea haha. Quick tip you should add to the next installment down the road , is to prep the ground where your stringers will sit! measuring from the door , right to the ground works if the ground is perfectly level, some folks forget to make sure the landing pad is at the same elevation , and finding where to put the landing pad is all wrapped up in the math you just displayed, but your looking at the run, and the amount of steps to determine that distance. I had little to no experience with stairs and this was the challenge I had to deal with when I built my first 2nd story set. I got it first try thank god because lumber was outrageously expensive at that time haha . awesome video sir
Yes thatbis correct on the landing. Mine was level but you do need the measurement where you landing is going to be. Thanks for watching