Buzz Saw Blade, Preparation for Reshaping Teeth
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- čas přidán 1. 08. 2024
- Discussion of how I learned to reshape teeth on buzz saw blades. Do not take this as the perfect way or the only way to service these old cordwood saw blades. It's just how and why I do it this way.
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Id love to have a sit down and listen to you explian these old techniques, thanks for this valuable information 👍
Well I'm home most every day !! LOL. Well, I am tickled so many DO seem to want to know more stuff about the old ways. Thanks for stopping in tonight.
Enjoy your videos, reminds me how much my dad (old man), taught me the things he was taught and learned out of necessity as he grew up during the depression, thanks👍
Thanks Kevin for the comment. My dad was born in 1909 and saw some pretty rough times as well. Being a farming family they did eat pretty good during the depression though. But it was nonstop 7 days of work for life. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and sorry I missed notification of your comment sir.
@@tractorman4461 thank you brother, be well, be safe and may God bless you today
Fantastic child of a master sawyer!🤠🥳👍💓🤍💙
Back then the old timers just did what was necessary to keep old equipment in working order. I was riding the fenders of the old tractors since I was about 4 years old. Thanks Chris for the cool comment !!
Thankyou very much! It's simply amazing, There is so much to it yet some people can just take a file and a chair and make those blades cut like new. It's sad that we are and have lost so many of the old timers that made this look so easy and the skills died with them. I would have loved to learn so much more. I truly appreciate you sharing your bits of wisdom with fools like me.
Bill Fischer thank you for the kind words sir. I agree with you about losing the old ways and the need for attempting to keep at least my little corner of it alive. I really forgot some really good points I remembered as soon as this one was done. So I really should gum one of the blades like I described on the wood lathe. That would give me the opportunity to bring those points out as well. Thank you once again sir for watching and especially for taking the time to comment. It is appreciated. And as always... post a question anytime.
Outstanding video! I learned so much. Looking fowar to watching the rest of your videos. Remember, Take care of your (saw)teeth!
Awesome !! Do you have a buzz saw by chance ? I have a lot of vidoes of mine in operation in different configurations.czcams.com/play/PLk72G9DTzZ1vR5HU-MFrvAt8RCHx_nK5k.html and a real cool series in re-configuring a buzz saw for use differently than that which it was designed:czcams.com/play/PLk72G9DTzZ1tJEjzkfIvq8dY--UWCpl4-l.html Yes, tooth geometry is important !! BOTH kinds of teeth. (-;
Great info! I learn something new everytime I click on this channel. Thank you.
Thank you sir for watching and especially for the comment. Like I said, right or wrong it doesn't matter because it works for me and all we are doing is cutting firewood.
This is a very informative video and very interesting. I would love to find me an old buzz saw and restore it some day. Great video! Thank you
Thanks for watching...After posting I realized there were a number of points I forgot to touch on. I'd suggest checking auction zip farm auctions with buzz saw in the search bar. There's tons of them out there.
I put 200 miles out for auction for buzzsaw and got nothing. I'm in Detroit mi.
I hope you will continue this series. Most of the videos out there on this topic are pretty crappy, yours had the best detail and well explained, but it is only the beginning.
I agree it is only the beginning as far as tooth geometry is concerned. Like I noted, this is what I learned from the old generation that HAD to do things for themselves. There definitely is a more precise technique and a ton of engineering that goes into it. Thank you for the comment, and I apologize for missing it when you posted.
Beautiful explanation of a lost art.
marcus matthews thank you for the compliment sir. Unfortunately I failed to recall all the details while making this one. Of course there is a ton of stuff I don’t know about it too. Like I said, right or wrong it works for me and worked well for the old generation.
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.
You have a very informative video here sir....I know a bit and I say a bit cuz my father use to sharpen saws on the side and I have seen him many times and I have seen all that you talked about....ah ...I think your garage is cleaner than mine and I pride myself in saying that too....CHEERS
Thanks for taking a few minutes and watching. There's a number of points concerning touching up these blades that I totally forgot to bring up.
I can now appreciate the mental effort that goes into talking through out and thoroughly explaining a topic. I'm still, as time will allow, slowly making my way through your stuff Gator. You crack me up sometimes. Thanks again sir for watching and commenting.
Great video, lots of good information. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for checking it out Ben...and a hearty thank you for the 'shout out' the other night on your live feed.
Great explanation I learned alot from this video and will watch it many times
Sorry Kevin for the late reply but I just found this in the spam folder for some reason.... I'm glad to hear you enjoyed the video sir.
Great video!
I learned something watching this video Tractorman 44! I found the chain and the 1/2" grinding wheel mounted on the lathe a great idea. These are the methods and ideas that worked and kept things running and I Love to hear about them. I knew an old cabinetmaker and blacksmith who made his own tools as well. On his long wood lathe he mounted an octagonal 1 1/2" piece of hickory. At the switch he drilled a hole and linked up some cotter pins so he could turn the lathe on and off from any spot where he was working. He could turn out porch posts on this long lathe. I have a 3 foot bed and a lathe with a 5ft bed. I have another bed I can bolt on to the five foot and have a 9 ft bed. So I used tempered copper tubing and hooked it up to the switch like old Mr. Smith. Made some wooden brackets, drilled 5/8" holes, screwed it on the lathe bed and it works great. The three foot lathe its not much of a problem. But if I turn a post for a four posted bed it really comes in handy. Not much of a demand for four poster beds but I have done a few years ago. It was a double sized rope bed made from walnut, 7 feet tall with a canopy top. So this switch riggen worked great and made the lathe work so much easier. I also rigged up a wheel that ran in the middle of the piece to stabilize it. And you don't have to have degrees or some letters after your name to be a skilled craftsman, an artist. Experience is the best teacher and having someone like your Dad teaching you is the best education you can get I believe. Thanks Kindly! DaveyJO
That's really cool what you did with the big old lathes. I can't imagine turning pieces that long, but the son in laws first project(s) is going to be a number of various cant hook handles. My favorite 4' one is currently held together by black electrical tape. My little Delta just won't cut the mustard. He does phenomenal lathe work too. I can't hold a candle to his talent in that arena. The support in the middle on a metal lathe is called a 'steady rest' I believe. I can see how a small wheel would work just fine for wood. The longer the piece of wood is the more center deflection you get and that wheel working somewhat as an idler/support bearing would be great. I'm gonna pass that on to my son in law. The old man at times was somewhat at a loss for the right words, but a fellow learned a lot from him by observation. He and one uncle stayed back and farmed the old home place after the rest moved away and built their own lives so they had tons of methods ingrained in their heads from the early 1900's on. Kinda like us they seemed a bit slow to adopt more modern methods ...especially if it cost money !! LOL. Thank you for the comment DaveyJO...you're probably on your third cup by now. I'm only inside so late today because I gotta stay clean for a doctors visit at noon....lolololol...dang doctors.
Tractorman44 I tell people all the time Tractorman44, hip replacements? I go to the Amish store, get some stainless steel screws, my impact driver and a bottle of bourbon and fix it up for you for the cost of the screws. They never take me up on it though, huh, go figure, eh? It cost us $163 to put our old cat down a few years back. So you feel sick and know your going to have to spend a hundred buck just to go in. It's always a pain in the wallet and you know where we place them usually. And that steady rest, which I think too is the name for it, I made with two 3" or 4" wheels I had around. Ball bearing and I made a wooden frame and mounted it with a few bolts with slotted holes so I could adjust it. I also wore a heavy leather welder so glove to help study it as well. If I ever need porch posts I will make them and use 5-6" square posts. These things you buy at Home Depot or Lowes look like match sticks on a house, way out of proportion. I had friends who paid a guy $600 for one post to match the old and this was years ago. I sad, you should have come to see me about it. That four poster I made was solid walnut. I was lucky enough to to buy a stack of 16 quarter square walnut, seasoned 30 years for a buck a piece. I remember at that time, in the 80s, a place in NY wanted $1.49 an inch. It's nice straight grained stuff and great for turning. A friend a few years back said, hey, I'll give you two bucks a piece. I told him he could kiss my bumper and we laughed. Oh yes, the wheel thing, as I said I used two wheels that were new heavy caster wheels for heavy carts. I bought a box of wheels in different sizes at an auction for a few bucks, never used. They did put some lines on the work but easily sanded out. For sure, turning a big thing like this is kind of spooky. If that baby let lose one might get WACKED but good. I checked the centers often because they will loosen a bit as you turn until they seat in well. I also planed the corners with a jack plane which helps a lot too. You can also run they through a planer and knock the corners off. I had one piece with a knot I didn't see until I turned it a bit, right in the middle. So I used another piece. Takes a while to turn an eighteenth century pattern with all the details but very satisfying indeed. I wasn't turning at mega speed either. Just enough to make a nice smooth cut. Had a big exhaust fan running right over the lathe and helped a lot. I've seen old guys years ago using a wooden wheel thing they made. Put a bushing in the wheel and ran a bolt through. If I recall one guy glued and tack some leather from an old tractor belt. Did you know many old leather belts were made of buffalo leather back when the great slaughter happened. 40-80 million buffalo in 1800 and a thousand in 1900. Lucky we have any at all today. They killed an ancient way of life with it too. I know there are a lot more today, thankfully. Our 28" drums a Cherokee friend made for us is buffalo hide, very tough stuff. Now with my fingers throbbing from my slow typing, it's time for a cuppaJO. And our saga continues of the old boys. Thanks Much! DaveyJO
@@daveyjoweaver5183 I can tell by your descriptions that I am nowhere close to your level of talent...especially in the lathe department. Knowing the character of the wood and what to expect out if makes a big difference in how a project turns out. Not all wood as you know can be used for every project. Talking about walnut, my brother gave me a 17' one piece walnut handrail made in 1882 (yes, 1882) and installed from the second floor hotel to the first floor mercantile that my grandfather and his brother in law ran on the corner of his farm at the intersection of the Missouri Pacific RR and local Hiway A. They closed it down around the end of the Depression and it sat boarded up until the early 50's. I was a kid about 7 or 8 when we dismantled the hotel, salvaged the lumber and dad built his new house out of it. The walnut handrail was a source of entertainment for my brothers and me as we would slide down the banister while playing in and around the old building. I didn't remember that portion but my oldest brother told me.
Anyway, the old man salvaged that walnut handrail and kept it overhead in his shop until the mid 70's when he brought it to my brothers house strapped over the hood of his pickup to keep in case someone wanted it in the future. Fast forward from '75-ish to 2018....I'm rebuilding a house my daughter bought from a cousin that purchased it in foreclosure cheap. He sided it and built a 2 car garage connecting the house via a 10' x 12' laundry room. The inside was gutted. I took it pretty much from that point. Oh he still did the drywall for us, insulated the walls and built a couple vanities while I rewired, plumbed, installed tank and drainfield, installed all new duct and hvac equipment, cabinets and flooring and new roof and gutters then blew in R 44 in the ceiling. Well....my brother gave me that handrail and I cut it down to make two shorter ones for the two sets of stairs of the split level. I had exactly 2 1/4" left over plus the big curved base at the bottom of the stairwell where my brother had knocked off the finial so we wouldn't hit our butts too hard sliding down the banister !! Now that thing turned out very good. I actually did a few videos on that and some walnut doors my daughter and I built for her laundry room wall storage. Check it out here if you'd like:czcams.com/video/ATAc0fmikSg/video.html Hopefully you'll like it. My son in law made my walnut window sills and walnut risers as well as the vanity tops and kitchen island top and stair treads out of butcher block oak salvaged from a company that repairs tractor trailer decks. You may enjoy these walnut doors myself and my daughter built too:czcams.com/users/edit?video_id=i-JNCk9h3h8 I don't know why its so fuzzy I may go redo this video and re upload it for higher quality. I'm still hitting and missing on the project and in a couple months she will have been living in it for two years. Just a little bit left..like flooring in the basement which is why I'm adapting the floor buffer to accept 4" diamond grinding wheels.
Wow..I got carried away DaveyJO !! I just looked up and saw how much I just typed !! Too much hot air over here in Missouri I guess... Anyway, I enjoyed every tidbit in your comment and wish we'd live a bit closer as I think we could get into a bit of trouble on occasion.....LOL. Thank YOU for commenting sir !! It is greatly appreciated .
Tractorman44 Yep, we'd have fun gettin in trouble I bet for ser! They always seem to be longer than when you read them. I'm a two fingered Tyler so speed ain't so high but who cares anyway? It's fun exchanging stories. I listened a lot to the Elders, my Grandparents, my old neighbor who lived next door and died when I was 12, he was my buddy and tailgate me quite a bit and gave me a wooden stocked be gun, a daisy, older than the Red Riders. I painted it up with all different colors of my model paints and I'm sure it looked like hell. Don't know what happened to it. Old Mr. Schultz was his name. He had an old Plymouth that was black but looked purple in the sun. His dog Snookey couldn't be pet by anyone but Mr Schultz. He told me a story where he saw a real mermaid in a special RR tank car at a circus, he was convinced it was real. What a great story for me. He also had some sheep and a chicken yard. He always had a wad of baccie in his mouth too, a bit of juice always in the corner of his mouth. I always had old friends who were my best friends. My mentor, Old Antique John they called him, was born 1889 and died in 1981. He was a cabinetmaker, a shoemaker, a rug weaver and a blacksmith. When we really got together he couldn't do much but when we talked and I listened and answered questions he said you got it Dave. I asked him how to do something, in the 70s and don't remember what. So he said how would I do it. I told him so he said do it in your shop and bring it back here in the morning. I went back the next morning empty handed He well where is it? I said it didn't work. He said I knew damn well it wouldn't work. I asked well why did to tell me to go do it? He said, You won't do it again will you? He said that some things you just have to learn from experience because when your young your going to do it now you want anyway. Indeed, I did learn well. But I can't remember what the project or piece of something it was. May be I have more skills in the wood field but I'd be willing to bet you exceed me in the metal work and other stuff too. But I always tell folks, everyone is an artist in some way. Might be that apple pie, or house painting or working to restore old tractors, everyone has something. And some are just down right great folks who do well to others in making them happy or a good laugh. And some believe you have to have a degree to really be an expert. Experience is always the best reacher and you don't need a paper to say so. When someone says they majored in engineering in college I ask, what line do you work for? I'm a ceramic engineer. What. Kind of pots do you make? Sometimes people really get POed Hey, lighten up me see! Your Dad was far better than any professor I'll bet! I suppose this is why I was always attracted to the old timers, when you did the things needed and did it yourself My Great Grandfather had two old model Ts in the barn. Every year or two he would tear them down, clean all the parts up and put it back together. My mom said he always had a few parts left over but they always ran afterwards. In the 30s a drifter was seen leaving the barn one early morning and a few hours later the barn was on fire. They figured he slept there and a cigar wasn't out. So there went the model Ts. Sure is fun to tell about memories like these, to hear yours and things we learned. And I wouldn't be surprised if we meet one day. So Thanks Again and I'll tune into those videos. I'm eager to see the railing. I had a piece about 16 feet long and used it for a few things. I've been wanting to start a you tube deal but need a bit of help from a more pic savy friend. Share some of the stuff I do, some music and stupidness too of course. I'll let you know when I do, now that I've been saying I want to for a year or two now. A Fine Spring Evening to You and your Family. DaveyJO
Well thank you you showed me a lot that I needed to know because the blade that I have is well used and it has probably a third of the gullet that your blade thanks again
Awesome Jeff. Thanks for the cool comment. Take a look at these if you'd like: czcams.com/video/ezvZ7u8jUwE/video.html or this one which is part 8 of making a lot of changes to let it operate easily on any small category 1 three point tractor: czcams.com/video/06hJGTyCPqM/video.html. Gotta have the gullet to carry the sawdust out of the kerf, and the shape of the teeth are pretty important as well.
Ok thanks for the info!
Cheers, thanks again for sharing
This was one of my first videos and I didn't get to cover a lot of things that should've been covered. This blade in particular is one of the rip saws, as evidenced by the shape of the teeth and the way it is sharpened. But like I said, for an old buzz saw, it would work just fine for firewood.
Hi all , with referance to the 60* angle that is for a RIP saw , not to be used for cross cutting as it will snatch the log out your hand,or spit it back at you, stick to 45* for general purpose use.
Thank you for the input. As I said in the video, I do not do this professionally at all and was just providing a little insight as to the old way of accomplishing the task as passed to me from the older generation. I know there's a difference in the tooth geometry between cross cut and rip saws but that's about it. I do have several videos running a blade I've serviced in the described fashion at 45*. If you have a few minutes to waste, you can watch it in action here: czcams.com/video/-zuOb3e5miI/video.html
He would make a great geometry teacher in high school. He gives good rationale to the 'why' not just the 'how'.
Thanks John for the compliment. Just passing on some things I learned from the old man, right or wrong.
@@tractorman4461 Your welcome. You remind me of my Dad, a physician, who was an exacting soul. In addition to being a doc, he built boats (that he learned from his Dad), clocks, and took up oil painting at age 72. When he talked about them to me, he also explained the 'why'. If you understand the why, the how comes easy, and the product is perfect.
Hope your stihl around. Thank you. This is really a valuable video.
You missin you dad was easy to see.
Good men, they tend to make more good men.
Thank you.
Hahahaha...good comment, thank you Justin. Yeah, the old fart was kinda cantankerous on occasion but I tried to be quiet and listen or at least watch what he did pick up some of the old timers tricks. You gotta remember back in the 19- teens, those old timers had it pretty darn rough. They had to do what had to be done to just survive on a day to day basis. Remember, what we learn dies with us if we don't take the opportunity to pass it along to another generation.
@@tractorman4461 my uncles, all three of them are quite well self-taught. Just one of them alone has a wonderful amount knowledge.
Anyway, they got the bug from their dad like you.
Not not sure where I got it.
I was mentioning, well exactly what you said, and that it was too bad. There’s so much great knowledge that is not recorded for those that come after in this revolving door policy because of life. I am thankful, at least there’s channels like yours where you are encapsulated in time I suppose for lack of a better term.
It’s funny how you don’t appreciate that until you well I guess start going and looking for videos every time you have a question and it’s made us into spoiled brats being able to do that it’s hard to remember not being able to go onto the Internet and pull up a video that shows you what to do on virtual anything you need to do.
Oh, and that’s a great segue. Here’s a video I put together for you or anybody that has any knowledge of this blade. Don’t know if I would call it putting a video together but something I recorded and breathe heavily during. Lol
czcams.com/video/EkQQ-b7urEg/video.html
@@justintothetruth I looked at that and couldn't come up with thoughts about that strange looking blade. I commented that the rig with the Wisconsin V-4 power looked to be one heck of a good looking rig !! Ya just gotta find the right blade. Keep your eye peeled on FB Marketplace. I see them quite frequently. Inspect the bottom of the gullets good though for hairline fractures starting. Don't buy it if that's the case. The potential of it coming apart under heavy use it too dangerous.
@@tractorman4461 well thank you. Yeah the The Old Wisconsin. She was full of leaves and stuff but I mean she starts right up. When I when I crank it you know hand crank doesn’t have the starter on it. And people want $350 for a starter for Wisconsin so that’s not gonna happen. I’ll be hand crank it.
My 56 Wisconsin that’s connected to a 7.5 kW three phase generator. I picked that up a couple years ago for 250 bucks and there was never really any use of it made there was no exhaust saw it in the exhaust manifold. I doubt it had more than 20 hours on it if even that.
Sure wish there was a way to make these things run a little bit more efficient, some type of updated carburetor, but I suppose doesn’t make fiscal sense for anybody to do such a thing when you can get twice the horsepower out of these Briggs & Stratton I guess I should like those old Wisconsin motors. I never even heard of one until I got that Fairbanks Morse generator.
Well, anyway after watching your videos and some other ones that of course aren’t is good as far as telling you how to sharpen it that’s for sure.
Oh, I should mention that I said that it might be for cutting ice. What do you think about that?
I have the last two days been making a jig for the blade to sit in while I correct it’s shortcomings. So to speak.
I’ll send you a video us when I get done with it over everything I whipped up in order to make it happen. Spending a lot of time on this when I should be planting veggies. Hopefully it pans out. Thank you for all your videos and getting back to me with your comments and I will get back to you soon as I get that uploaded.
Unless I have some other question that is not known right now.
All the best for you and your family.
I’ll send you a video of that it’s only 12 seconds. The Wisconsin Generator.
Sincerely, Luke C
Very informative!
Doc
That was one of my much earlier videos. Today I think I'd have done a little better. As soon as it was recorded I thought of a dozen things I should have included. LOL Oh well. Thanks Doc, for taking the time to watch the old ones... Greatly appreciated for sure !!
@@tractorman4461 I also watched the video of you laying out the pattern and using the grinder to get the angles. That was the neatest thing I've seen in months.
@@martinbenton742 Ahhhh...cool. I really like it when guys go back into the old videos. That one was a good one. I remember recording it well. Thanks Doc, for the really kind words.
Good day sir ; I needed that information. thank you. The 45°and 60°angle example cutting steel you use the 45° you need support behind the cutting edge and if the angle was 60°cutting steel it wood bite right in and grab to much steel and stop that blade cold trying to take to much in one shot. Wood is soft so the 60°can hog off more wood and faster .45° cuts iron wood no problem the best, its a smaller chip coming of the tooth .60° tooth make a bigger chip more aggressive cutting through faster making a bigger chip taking more HP. my old man was raised on the farm they did every thing by hand and horse. look at the cutting edge of a drill for steel less angle and mor twist in the flute for carrying the chip out and the compare wood drill bit great gutting angle and flute is stretched out longer to pull a bigger chip out. Take care God Bless.
Great comment sir. Thank you. I think the 60 degree tooth was designed for ripping through wood lengthwise whereas the 45 degree might be primarily for cross cut use. I really don't know all the mechanics behind sharpening, I just know what the old man showed me over the years. I just see a LOT of buzz saws with badly shaped teeth on youtube. If you have a minute or 15 to spare, check out this one:czcams.com/video/06hJGTyCPqM/video.html Its part 8 of a series of a buzz saw makeover and I touch up the blade with a Belsaw saw sharpening machine. Or maybe this one:czcams.com/video/ed8WSvOXvkw/video.html This one is a sharpening on another buzz saw I converted in a different way to a three point on a little Kubota. Its the one I use continually. Thanks again for showing such an interest in these things !! It is appreciated sir.
Thank You sir; Ripping and cross cut oh that's right, my old man use to say to me the lights on but no body's home . I saw the second one I will take at the part 8 Take care thanks for turning on the light .
Good information thank you old school teaching. If your blade starts to wobble and the shaft is true and bearing are good you might need to have it hammer true again. A blacksmiths will be able to fix that.
Yessir John, you are correct about that. Hammering is something I never was exposed to. It's about a lost art for sure. Thanks for the comment sir.
Great videos ! How many teeth on that new blade? Just wondering if that blade can be used on cordwood saws, or if used on another type saw. I have several different blades with each a different tooth count. Thanks!
The number of teeth is not a problem, the angle of the tooth is verry important, as it will snatch the wood out your hand, or throw it back at you.
First of all thanks for a great channel and awesome videos. Do you have a video of the lathe and grinding wheel setup. I just got my buzz saw and the teeth look like sharks teeth, the front edge is the same as the back edge, almost 45*.
No, unfortunately I have no video of that setup. But it is easy to duplicate. I have a bar secured above the lathe to attach a small link chain to. You may have to experiment with the location of the bar to get the blade to enter the gumming wheel at the desired angle.....But drop the chain through the arbor hole of the blade, of course it is resting horizontally, and insert a pin or bolt through the link under the blade at the height of the tool rest, which should be adjusted to the center of the gumming wheel. The 1/2'' gumming wheel is attached to the lathe in whatever fashion your lathe will allow. Then slowly gum a couple teeth to the marked gullet radius, then rotate 90* and gum the same amount...then rotate....continue... Just a couple at a time, and rotating the blade will minimize the chance of overheating the metal of the blade to any degree.
NOW....let me throw a monkey wrench into the situation. I mentioned that I'd heard another fellow did basically the same thing on a table saw and a viewer replied that after this video he too set up a gumming wheel on his old table saw and succeeded in doing the same thing. So, that may give you another option. Whatever you do, try to keep the blood INSIDE your body.... Seriously, you can rip a hand or finger pretty easily with all the odd handling of the blade. And remember, facing the gumming wheel exposes your face neck and chest to flying fractured fragments of grinding wheel....just sayin'.... Good Luck, and let me know how you make out with the endeavor. Oh yeah, remember to closely inspect your blade for stress fractures extending towards the center from the bottom of the gullets. Thank you for watching and following up with a question. Sorry to disappoint woodsteach.....Btw, are you an Industrial Arts Instructor ? Have you seen this one too?czcams.com/video/ezvZ7u8jUwE/video.html Feel free if you've the time.
@@tractorman4461 Yep to the Industrial Arts Teacher, have taught woods, welding, and drafting for 26 years. Thank you for the instructions. I just found a guy in town that sharpens saws, and he said that he has sharpened a few buzz saws over the years and we are going to visit tonight and inspect the saw to see if it is in good shape. I will watch the video that you referenced. Thank you and keep up the great videos.
@@woodsteach My SIL is also an Industrial Arts Instructor for the local Jr and Hi School. Good luck with the visit with the professional saw sharpener that really knows what hes doing. I just know the limited bit I've learned from my dad back in the day tied in with what I've picked up by trial and error over the years when it comes to sharpening saws of any kind. But like I say, these buzz saws are not precision machines and we are only processing firewood, so there is a degree of 'forgiveness' allotted in the category of tooth geometry.
Of course, that is my personal opinion. A poorly shaped tooth or poorly sharpened tooth will make you physically work harder to get the job done. It's a pleasure to get one cutting 'just right' !! And I am sure you will get there with yours in short order. Thank you for the continued conversation and I hope to hear more from you in the future. Btw...you should see the cant hook handle my SIL made for me on his 3 phase Powermatic he's running on a single phase VFD (Variable Frequency Drive), if you'd like and have the time anyway. czcams.com/video/OS7XyiSl8rQ/video.html
I wonder if that 31 inch blade could be re-cut on a cnc plasma table ?
I'm sure it can, those CNC plasma tables are very exacting. It'd be a slow grind to reshape the teeth correctly without overheating the blade and affecting the metal John, Heck I'd try it....but I don't have access to a CNC plasma....yet. LOL
How about setting the saw teeth? What method are you using? I know different blades have different settings. I just use a file and. Crescent wrench on mine.
I use two ball pein hammers. One as an anvil held consistently 1/8" down from the tooth tip, then the second one to strike with an even swing. I shoot for 1/4" to 5/16" kerf to minimize any pinching in fresh cut green wood. Thanks for the question and for taking the time to watch.
The set should be half the thickness of the blade width, IE,. one Quater of the blade thickness out each side of the blade to the tip of the tooth, if a blade is set any more it will wonder when ripping.
That certainly is a good rule of thumb to follow. I actually swage the teeth on my inserted tooth 50" circular sawmill. These little 24", 30" and 36" are only used for crosscutting sawmill slabs or tree branches for firewood on various cordwood (buzz) saws. Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment !!!
George, recently I did a series on converting another rig to three point and at the end of that series there is a video on servicing another blade and using a Belsaw circular saw sharpening tool to sharpen and set the teeth. If you'd like to take a few minutes, feel free: czcams.com/video/06hJGTyCPqM/video.html