How to Frame Perfect Walls Using a Laser Level (Perfect Plumb Walls!)
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- čas přidán 10. 02. 2020
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In this video Eddie shows you how to use a Laser Level to Layout perfectly Plumb walls for your Basement Wall Framing Project!
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This is video 1 of a 6 PART basement wall framing series. Learn how to layout your new basement walls and what tools you will need for your entire framing project in this video.
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#Basement #DIY #BasementWaterproofing - Jak na to + styl
I am on basement #6 with the Huepar (pronounced Hoo-par) 3 beam laser. Some battery life issues but still very dependable after a couple years. I layout bottom plate lines first so my rooms and curbs are perfectly square to each other. I gain every sq ft of living space while eliminating any contact with foundation walls. The first thing I do is remove the below grade bat insulation on day 1. You immediately see the poured foundation and it's lack of squareness. It takes about 2 hours to get all my lines established for a basement job. Customers love the precision. The benefits continue throughout every phase of the project whether it be ceiling drywall , flooring vinyl plank, bulkhead straightness and even electrical boxes off the floor. Just set the laser and the boxes bang on at 15" thoughout and don't follow the bad concrete floors you encounter. I also love these Huepar lasers for bathroom tile work. with the 3 beam it's all you need for all the trades. Love this channel.
If you have difficulty lining up your laser floor lines on target points that are +15 feet away, there are these things called "high precision manual rotation stages" that you can buy that take that problem out using a laser level. Rotation stages are these devices that are normally used in the optics industry. It's basically a small platform that has a round stage on top of it that has a screw hole (make sure you buy a model that has a hole that matches the size on your laser level on the bottom of the box, if not, you'll have to buy an adapter screw to make it work) in the center of the round stage on top. Thats where you attach your laser level. On the bottom there are knobs that you use to engage the fine rotation clutch. All in all, its a device that allows you to attach your laser level to and has very fine rotation control on it. I bought that Huepar laser level mount but the gears were all plastic inside and it only lasted about a year. These devices are muchhhhhh better quality made with metal gears inside and not only does it last longer, it give you much better spin control than the Huepar adapter does. I can line my line up on a target point 40 feet away very easily. Just make sure if you buy one that it can support the weight of the laser level. I own the Bosch GLL3-330CG and I bought a $50 Chinese made rotation stage (60 mm platform) off of Walmart.com and it took all of the headache out of lining up floor lines. These laser level companies really should manufacture these things b/c they are critical to making a laser level useable.
I always enjoy your videos, I only wish you made more, but understand they take a lot of time to film and produce. I’ve watched a number of laser reviews and what I like in particular to yours is that you showed it on an actual job, doing what it is meant to do. I grew up with using a Plumb Bob and it works great but does take a lot of time, however a laser is fantastic on saving time, and frankly its such a time saver and have loved it for laying tile, especially horizontal lines Thanks again for your efforts, and hope everyone is having a fantastic 2022.
Thank you Marilynn! I will try in 2022 to make more videos...I have been sooooo busy actually building basements and running the basement buisness that I have deluted myself towards CZcams videos as of late. Thanks for watching and for your positive comments! Best! ~Eddie
Thanks I just got my laser ordered using your link 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Eddie,
I found myself on the same situation than you, after many years using the plumb bob and looking for a straight board finally I got a laser. Mine is like the one that you are showing, horizontal and vertical line but it also gives me a red line for plumb, is a game changer! We safe hours of time, as you know plumbing under soffits and beams is very hard, I hardly recommend it!
Keep the good work
Hi which model of laser level is the one you got ?
Thank you very much this was insightful
Good video!! I saw your previous videos and I do a lot of stuff without help so the plumbob might have not have been effective for me. Glad to see you gave in to the laser level
Eddie . my hat goes out to you im in construction I learned a ton from your youtube channel and tom you have a great team honestly you should open a construction school you make everything look easy keep up the good work god bless you!
Thanks Tommy! Good luck with all of your new projects! ~Eddie
One more time. Awesome videos. Very helpful. Cheers from canada
Thank you my brother! I wish you GREAT success w/ all of your diy projects...appreciate the views.
Nice! I just got this laser for under $100 on Amazon. Thanks for the tip!
I asked a question before regarding the gap issue I was thinking about. Please disregard the question. Figured it out from your videos. As always thanks.
Thank you
Using Traditional Manual Tools Requires Lots of Experience And Skill But Modern Technology Has Made Things Easier for Inexperienced People As Well
Thanks for posting! Also beats pre-building the wall and using a 4' level to try to make sure it's level. We'll try it on my friend's basement going forward....
Your welcome brother! Try it...you'll like it!
Thanks for this video my old laser I’ve had 15 years doesn’t project 360* so this is great thanks
Hah, yep. I used to borrow my brothers old Hilti 2-dot laser that cost him a bundle. I now own a 3-axis 360 degree green laser that cost me $120. So much easier.
good job... .thx
It's been a while since I last watched your videos. Very cool stuff
Hey Dylan! Thanks for the views brother...
Thanks, great video! I have a Takamine level, same price, excellent quality.
Thanks
Nice video
i use a framing square and do my floor layout then i put my wall in place and attach to the floor and then use a level to tie in the top .....but now i got a laser life is so much better....i put the top track inn and then the bottom track and keep moving with that method just installing the top and bottom track thru out the entire layout and afterwards just cut bundles of studs and pop them in . wood would be different but thank god i rarely use wood
Nice!!!! I’ve been searching and waiting for the Makita laser to go on a super sale price. I’m already in that platform. As always fantastic videos.
Hi Sean! Yeah these laser's have so many practical uses...I love mine. Good luck with your diy projects brother. ~Eddie
Basement Finishing Man Thanks you brother
Basement Finishing Man Hey buddy. Quick question. How did you compensate for the 1/4,3/8,or 1/2 inch difference from the drywall gap? Did you just nail the top rails to the cats and beams. There’s going to be a height difference when I stall the 2x4’s on top of the drywall running the length of the room isn’t there? Thank you
I learned a lot from your videos I am currently doing the framing in my basement. I'd like to see more basement finishing videos. Specifically how to hang drywall on ceilings and walls.
Hi Ayoub! Here you go more videos:
How to Hang drywall on Walls video>>>>> czcams.com/video/Dn25J1jW3k0/video.html
How to Hang drywall on Ceilings Video>>>> czcams.com/video/J_DOHEG21tk/video.html
Thanks for watching my brother! Good luck with all your diy projects ~Eddie
Hi Ayoub! Here you go more videos:
How to Hang drywall on Ceilings Video>>>> czcams.com/video/J_DOHEG21tk/video.html
Thanks for watching my brother! Good luck with all your diy projects ~Eddie
A new basement framing video! Thanks!!
Love that Framing! Thanks for watching and commenting Scott!
Eddie
Been doing something similar. I think I have the same one except red.
@@Matt.Hagens I have a red one to Matt! I love these things!
Basement Finishing Man Eddie - I sent you an email regarding designing my basement but I’m guessing I found an old email address. What’s the best way to get in touch with you?
@@Matt.Hagens Mi Matt! basementfinishing@live.com is my business email.
Eddie
About the DeWalt DW088CG red one and love it
That's a good laser too Jon! Thanks for watching!
Eddie
great
I purchased that tool a while back and the performance was great but the more I used it got build up on shield could keep shield out of paint among other things but I still give it a 7.
I work with masonry, I would like to know if there is a laser system that can point me where there is a bulge or concavity in the wall when applying mortar. Can you help me?
Thanks for the tip. I’m thinking the laser beats the plum bob when working solo. I’ve wondered about those huge bats of insulation sometimes found on basement walls....do you leave them as-is when framing or do you pull the plastic off? Thanks again for the video!
Leave as they are and build my new framed exterior walls right in front of them Ryan!
Eddie
How did you do the floor line/red line to begin with? ( 90 degree square)
Question why are you framing directly on the concrete in the basement? Shouldn't you lay the water proof membrane then the osb board before framing?
Very nice video! Amazing
Thanks for share.
Att. Trindade
Eddie, hearing the background sounds of this vid is it true what they say in the trades......that you can work without power tools but you can’t work without a radio!
Got to have our jambs!
Eddie, Would this work for using to put up wall angle on all four walls for a drop ceiling grid?
Yes Chris it's awesome for drop ceilings!
Hi Eddie, just started laying out my basement walls following your videos. I was having trouble with the plumb bob so just purchased a laser as well. My bigger issue is that my concrete walls are very rough and lumpy. How can I best lay out my floor line in this situation? I measured 6" out from the wrapped walls on each end but it doesn't seem like my snapped line really runs parallel to the wall because of the unevenness of the surface I measured out from. Thanks!
Hi Brother! Hey that's okay if it looks a little "off" and not perfectly parallel with the concrete wall as long as you have no less than say 5" from the wall to the chalk-line you snapped, it's still going to work and be okay for you. Forget about the concrete wall and focus on your new framed wall lines instead. check it out and let me know how it looks for that min. 5" space between the concrete wall and the new laser line on the floor...
@@BasementFinishingMan thanks for the quick reply! I'll let you know how it goes, plan to get some work done this weekend.
I trust that you are saying this is BETTER than the old method with the string plumb bob but it sure looks a heck of a lot more involved and time consuming. Before, just getting the bottom of the wall where it needs to go, stand the wall and check it near the middle and lean for plumb, done. Don't even have to measure. Just cut a short piece of 2x4 or a one-by in two, which gives EXACTLY 2 equal pieces in width, put one at the bottom of said wall where the bottom has to go, take the other equal piece and place it to the edge of the top plate , touch your string line to its outer edge, like at the bottom. You know it is plumb when the string at the top and the plumb bob at the outer edge of the bottom block that is laying right next to the bottom plate just touches its edge. No measuring, done, easy peasie, Exactly the same distance from the outer edge of both blocks which can be easily attached to both plates if top plate is hindered from allowing one to just hold the string over the plate and allowing gravity to hold the top block in place by the weight of the plumb bob at the bottom. Just make sure your top and bottom blocks are turned the same which can be marked on each block. Thanks for your time for the video.
Thanks for the comment Bryan!
thank you boss
You're welcome!
How did you measure the line on the bottom? I am having the hardest time doing it with my laser.
Take your whole room and measure the center between the 2 walls in the front and the back. Now you have the center of your room. Then you can measure from the center to the sides where you want the wall to be.
After that you can use the the laser from that line.
Grtz.
What is the Lazer name brand?
I haven't used a laser, nor done anything involving plumb walls, but im thinking about purchasing this laser so im curious about something: It looked like your crows foot mark was pretty off of where the laser line was. Is that just normal tolerance? Or is that simply because this video is just for demonstration purposes (as in, maybe you rushed the plumb bomb just to get the video footage, or didnt set up the laser as accurately because you already had your lines, etc)? Should I expect more accurate results with this laser? Or any laser for that matter?
Yes he rushed the shot.
I signed up for the system years ago I wonder if I still have access to it online? Is it possible for you to assist me with that
Hey man long long time no see! I'll look into this and get back to you. I'll get you back inside right away! Thanks for watching.
Eddie
Put it at an 10-20˚angle towards a wall and you see all dips and bumps .
i’ve been fixing 100 year old houses for over 30 years and a laser level shows how horrible these houses have become and how much work it takes to straighten, snd level walls, ceilings, snd floors.
these old houses suck, and the laser level confirms it. it’s ALWAYS A LOT OF WORK.
new building methods and codes are great, as long as the foundations don’t move.
i guess my point is that a laser level is very useful and a time saver.
This might sound like a silly question but how do you original decide on how to make the square red lines on the ground? I see how the lazer beam gave you a perpendicular line on the wall but how would that work on the ground? Do you arbitrarily choose which angle to place your perpendicular lines and start from there? If i use a level on the wall. You can easily find the straight vertical line and horizontal line thus making a square but even using a level on the ground, you can’t find where to original make your perpendicular lines. Or lets say using a square on the ground, how do you choose where the square would originally go in order to start your perpendicular lines? Honestly i have no idea what i’m doing, any comment would be helpful. Thanks.
Great question! On the ground we use math, squares and the 3,4,5 triangle. The advantage of this device is to project that square measurement up to the top. Layout on the floor with a traditional method, use the laser to translate that layout up to the ceiling.
@@dougsherman1562 Thank you very much.
Hw do you knw you got 90 degrees on the red line
I use a framing square to check all of my inside and outside corners for 90 degrees and would adjust the lines if needed. ~Eddie
Congratulations on crawling out of the 90's!
Old habits sometimes die hard son…
@@BasementFinishingMan 😄 Good to see a sense of humour these days! I'm 51 and used to do everything with a plumb bob and a water level.( I did Microsofts headquarters in Ireland that way, I used to be a contractor). Laser levels back then( late 90s) were expensive, 2500 minimum. Welcome to the club.👍
Question - how do you ensure that the plumb line you laid out is square? I can see doing it manually on each end - measure from reference wall to laser line right at the laser and do the same thing at the other end where your wall will terminate. Is this the best way? I feel like there’s got to be a more accurate way using the laser itself to ensure square?
We square it up on the floor first for every new wall before we use the laser. ~Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan I’m just curious how it’s done. Is it just as simple as measure the same distance from existing wall to laser line at each end of laser line and make sure both measurements are the same and your line is now parallel to existing wall or maybe use Pythagorean theorem? Or is there some more “exotic” way to do it with the laser? Seems like you’d need two lasers or at least a laser that shoots out at a right angle and a laser detector of some sort. Just curious how you go about it in the real world.
In this video I use a HuePar Green Laser Level to layout perfectly plumb basement walls.
About 1/2 done framing my basement using your techniques - working great!!!
Hi Scott! Man thanks for watching our stuff and for trying our techniques! We appreciate the views and the positive feedback from you! ~Eddie
I watch all your vids and I have to say I always agree with your methods except when it came to the plumb bob. I have always used the laser for the ceiling layout lines. I used to do it the way you’re doing it in this video but a friend of mine let me use his hilti beam laser and now I won’t go back. Sometimes it gets to be a pain when its a 40’ long wall and you’re trying to line up the level on that line. The beam level you just line the beam up with the line on the floor and it shoots the beam up to the ceiling, make your crows foot go to the other end and do the same, snap your line and your done.
@@mrmarkfive Isn't that what I just did in the video...? LOL! appreciate the feedback brother! Thanks for watching and for keeping it real. ~Eddie
Basement Finishing Man lol no Eddie I mean everything in the video except instead of trying to line the laser line up with the line you snapped I sit the laser on the line you snapped and I turn on the point (dots) feature of the laser. 1 dot hits the line you snapped and the other dot shoots up to the ceiling. I do that on both ends and then I snap a line on the ceiling. I only do this for long walls that way you’re not trying to line up the level on let’s just say a 30’ long wall.
Why is it so difficult to get a simple tip on how to use a laser level?
I see countless unboxings, countless brand advertisements, but what I really want to discover, I can't.
To install a picture on the wall, do I need the laser to be at the same height as the picture, or can I leave the laser lower and simply tilt it until I get the height of the desired line on the wall?
Butt your foundation sole plate and measure out and then level down. Don’t transfer from concrete floor up.
Huh? What?...Lol!
So the green line with the red line. huh
That is the way we do it…you can use any color laser or chalk you like…
How has that laser level been working for you 10 months since you made the video? is it still working okay?
Like new still!
Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan Great! I might pick one up. Thanks!
Think of how much stuff you have been wrong with and did not know it
What if gravity doesn’t exist
I wouldnt use a chinese designed and made laser on a professional setting, they're just unreliable,
Really? We love this laser...no issues at all and we are professionals. Try it you’ll like! ~Eddie
@Conqwiztadore22. I bet the shoes you’re wearing are Made In China.
@@Discovery123. down town Beijing...
I didn't read all the comments but just in case nobody has mentioned it, these are not rotary generated planes, but rather projected by prisms.
great