Frederic Malle Rose & Cuir perfume review on Persolaise Love At First Scent - Episode 41
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- čas přidán 21. 09. 2019
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Episode 41 of Love At First Scent
This was a CZcams Live broadcast streamed on Sunday 22 September 2019. Unscripted. Unedited. Unrehearsed.
In this episode, I covered the new Frederic Malle Rose & Cuir, composed by Jean-Claude Ellena.
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Here's the blotter update:
As I said in the broadcast, 6 hours in, the scent has now shed most of its rosy components and rests on a bed of leather and vetiver. I haven't been able to stop smelling it and thinking about it all day... which must say something. A truly fascinating entry in Jean-Claude Ellena's portfolio.
Thanks again for watching.
[Sample provided by Frederic Malle.]
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Persolaise is not affiliated in any way to any brands, wholesalers, retailers or organisations involved with the fragrance industry. All reviews are entirely independent. Content is never 'sponsored' by any external agencies. Some reviews are based on samples provided by brands; others are based on samples obtained by the author. This has no bearing on the content of the reviews.
Copyright 2019 Dariush Alavi and Parfums Persolaise. All rights reserved.
Really liking your channel because of the depth of your descriptions and how you describe your experience with the scent! I’ve seen more fragrance “reviewers” lately just basically show a bottle, read off the notes of the fragrance and simply say it’s amazing or that they love it without giving any explanation why or what they experience. Just a very shallow opinion and not much of a review at all. Listening to your perspectives is very refreshing and helps me better understand and dissect whether it is a fragrance I wish to try out or not. Please keep up the great content
Also would be interested in hearing your thoughts (good or bad) on some Francis Kurkdjian blends either from his own line or scents he has done for other brands like Carven, Narciso Rodriguez or Ellie Saab, pretty much whichever you prefer.
Hi Bruton,
What a wonderful comment to read first thing on a Saturday morning. Thank you so much! Yes, depth and detail is what I aim for, and I’m sure there is an audience for it - as your comment proves! - so I shall do my best to keep doing my thing 😉 Thank you for the encouragement.
As for Kurkdjian, I think I have covered some of his work in previous videos and I’ve certainly written a lot about it on my blog. Check out this link for a complete list of my perfume reviews: persolaise.com/perfume-reviews
Great review with a lot of insight! I really like this perfume, must get a sample. And you have a new subscriber! Great hairdo, too!
😆 Thank you!
And thanks so much for taking the time to leave a comment. I really appreciate it.
I absolutely love your review. It was love at first sniff for me, I was hesitant for a moment because I didn’t know if it was feminine enough but I’m ordering this as I type. Thank you 🙏🏽
Wonderful - thanks very much for taking the time to let me know.
Hello, thank you for this video! 👍🙂 I like Rose & Cuir so much!! 😍
Wonderful. Thank YOU very much for watching 🙏
Have it for few days now and I absolutely love it! It is sooooo Ellena with his very recognisable style. To me it is rose with all leaves, stem, thorns and roots. Wet green rose garden with a hint of leather. Very interesting perfume with a wow effect, as it is completely not what you expect to smell for the first time. Very different from Galop, they have nothing in common.
Thanks very much for watching and writing. “A hint of leather”? I love how we all ‘read’ perfumes so differently. To me, there’s much more than a hint here. But anyway, I’m pleased you like it 😊 And yes, it’s very different from Galop.
Yes! It smells like freshly cut roses straight from the garden stem and all!
Great description. Thanks very much indeed for watching 😊
I got a sample yesterday,and I love it!I got rose and geranium.And I just love the combo.So uplifting and pleasant smell.... Beautiful.Reminds me of some dyptique releases.
Ah, wonderful, thanks for letting me know. It does seem to have quite a few fans out there.
Incidentally, today i wore an Hermes rose & cuir: Galop (the extract). Christine Nagel. I wonder how these two square. Galop offers a fruity rose (osmanthus and quince accentuating the juicy aspects of rose), and a leather that 'straddles' the Russian and Moroccan styles. It's elegant and warm, and seems to feature both iris and amber (in addition to spice - saffron, and perhaps some clove or nutmeg), notes that aren't listed. It's marvelous, and dries down rather...creamy, without turning into an insipid, musky 'skinscent'. It sustains its character throughout the development. I adore it. Very curious about the Malle, and just your mention of En Passant makes me drool: it's a gaping omission in my collection... Meanwhile, I'm glad you're uploading with such frequency! I realized just now, yours are my favorite discussions of perfume, exactly because you are so 'geeky' :)
Loufi303 I love the sound of the Galop - sounds more my thing than this Malle, which although interesting, sounds more like one for the boys ...
What a wonderful comment to read, thank you.
I do think Galop is quite a different animal: much softer and more elegant, as you say. I think it’s one of Hermès’ best.
I shall try to keep up the geekiness! 😉
Thanks for watching.
Paloma, do try to sample Galop.
Persolaise Perfumes Thanks, yes I am excited to try it , and also the En Passant 🙏
En Passant is heavenly.
Very interesting. This doesn't sound like my cup of tea at all but i will definitely sample it. The two track concept is very interesting to me.
I do find it a fascinating piece of work. Please let me know if you manage to try it.
Thanks for watching 🙏
Sampled this yesterday, going back today to buy. Love love love..... it’s a dry/aromatic rose. superstitious is amazing as well.
Yes, ‘dry’ is a good word here.
Many thanks for watching 😊
I'm curious as to your affinity for Base Notes over Fragrantica. I'd love to hear why, if you have the time. As always, excellence follows your work, and I appreciate all that you do!
Well, I believe Fragrantica has become more reliable over the years, but I used to get frustrated by all the errors I’d find in their database. Plus, I just prefer the look of Basenotes and its forum.
Super great review as always, thx a lot for the share, I really do like Perfumes from this house a lot but I have not tried this one yet, I do have some scents rose/ Oud & rose /cuir from a different company but after some time they amell kina of vetiver. but my girlfriend does not like/luv them at all not even one of them, she feels they smell kinda old something lol, even due some costs some bucks:). cheers super cool T-shirt bro BTW:) PS. I do try to catch up with the videos which I did miss before:)
Hi Amir and thanks for the comment.
I sometimes wonder if it would be worth doing a survey to find out if vetiver is a note generally preferred by men. I know so many women who can’t stand it. Curious.
And don’t worry about rushing to watch all the videos 😊 They’re not going anywhere. Take your time 😉
I ordered by mistake and is arriving soon.
I am in love with this scent. This smells similar…..very similar!!! to Kelly Caleche!
Ah yes, there may well be a link.
Thanks for watching.
I didn’t expect to like it. But when I first put my nose on it. Wow I agree with you completely with the train tracks. I got the rose at first blast. But not the rose flower completely. But more like the leaves and stems. Smth green. And the next moment I experienced the leather entirely. They are like completely opposites that attract. I’ve fallen for this.
Ah, excellent. Thanks for letting me know. And thanks for watching 😊
I'm wearing it right now and all I smell is a green freshness with lots of geranium and cassis. It reminds me a little bit of L'Ombre Dans L'Eau from Diptyque! I think it's a pretty, powerful and wonderful perfume leaning towards the more feminine side. I don't detect a leathery scent at all, neither a hint of mint, or rose. I would be very happy to own this one, though :).
Thanks so much for taking the time to write.
You’re not the first person to say they don’t get a strong leather note. But I’m pleased you like the fragrance, anyway.
That's funny, the leather comes out on top on my skin, i guess we're all different 💁♀️
Our perceptions can certainly vary.
Thanks for watching 😊
Wow! You are spot on in your comparison to Diptyque's L'Ombre Dans L'Eau. But with a wonderful twist of leather. Amazing scents. As a result, I must add this one to my collection.
Intrigued by this but have not sampled it yet. I love a little commented on perfume by SP Parfums which is a dark rose with leather. It would be hard to surpass that for me but I expect this is greener and a lighter rose. Maybe the two facets are as you say more parallel whereas the SP takes the rose so dark it is very close in nature to the leather.
Please do let me know what you make of it when/if you try it.
As always: massive thanks for watching and writing.
It s quite in the line of Cabochard by Gres from 1959....a colder mintier version of Csbochard..so pretty..
Thanks for this. And thanks for watching.
This time I cannot disagree with you, this is a phenomenal perfume. Amazing, JC Ellena has outdone himself. I get stylistic similarities in passing with Portrait of a Lady (the 'rose' accord), Noir Epices (the geranium accord), Tuscan Leather / Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather (leather accord in the dry-down 2/3 hours onwards - it's that same dry, sharp, parched leather) and Superstitious (similar retro references but to a much lesser degree here). Malle in decline? I think Malle is on a roll.
Ok, maybe not the most complex, but what is these days? This would be superb in crisp autumnal weather on dry days (I feel it's more dressy than casual). We need more perfumes of this kind of quality. My only regret is that I bought the 50 ml instead of 100 ml.
Quick question: Would you consider Cuir d'Ange to be 'bottle worthy' (just curious)?
Also, have you tried Ganymede? Very interesting abstract floral with suede/leathery nuances and vague hints of fruit and metal.
Thank you so much for this detailed comment; I’m pleased you like the perfume too.
You’ll find a full review of Cuir D’Ange over on my blog 😊
Was Nasamotto the Italian scent you were thinking of?
I’m afraid I can’t remember. But thanks for watching.
Jean Claude Ellena is undoubtably a master artist, his legacy is undeniable. That said, he is not my favorite perfumer maybe not even top five, not taking anything away from his talents. It is just my personal taste and subjective preference. My two favorite perfumers would have to be Patricia De Nicolai and Francis Kurkdjian, after that the choices become very difficult for me. So many brilliant artists, Ellena, Jacques Polge, Lorson, Sonia Constant, Pierre Bourdon, Demachy, Roucel, Daniela Andrier... I could go on, Olivier Cresp, O. Polge, Ropion lol I’m definitely in full geek mode now haha
This is why I love my audience so much 😃 - only true geeks could reel off a list like that 😆
Feel free to be as geeky as you wish!
I notice Duchaufour doesn’t make it onto your list. And what about Andy Tauer?
Persolaise Perfumes haha absolutely! Tauer is an amazing nose as well and I do enjoy a few of his scents, I just feel his style often doesn’t mesh with my personal preference. Again, not taking anything away from his skill set, he is an amazing perfumer. Duchaufour is one nose that I sadly admit haven’t experienced enough of to form a solid opinion on and I hopefully will be able get that corrected going forward because I’ve heard so many good things over the years but unfortunately due to proximity his creations aren’t readily available to me and I haven’t exactly been proactive online about acquiring them either for reasons I’m not sure of haha I enjoyed the work he did for Acqua Di Parma and Panhaligon’s but that is so far what I’ve been limited to. Any suggestions on where to start? I was planning on starting with his work he did for Comme Des Garcons as I’ve heard Incense Avignon and Kyoto are splendid woody, spice + smoke blends.
Hi again.
I’d say you definitely need to make some time for Duchaufour. Avignon is a must-try; I’m less enthusiastic about Kyoto. I love much of his work for L’Artisan Parfumeur: Timbuktu, Seville A L’Aube. I think his finest recent compositions have been for Neela Vermeire Creations: Trayee and Ashoka are very special.
Persolaise Perfumes sounds great, thanks for the suggestions. Didn’t realize you had a blog, looks like there’s plenty material to keep me busy for a while!
Oh, absolutely. The blog is where it all started; it’s almost 10 years old now. The CZcams channel is a much more recent venture.
subscribed:)
Thank you very much 🙏
According to you, is "rose et cuir" for women or for men ?
Totally unisex, I'd say.
Thanks for watching.
Is this fragrance only for women?
As far as I’m concerned, all perfumes are unisex. But Frederic Malle, as a brand, never make any of their releases gender-specific.
Thanks for watching 😊
Hate ittttttt. It smells like Sh*t. I trashed it immediately 😷.
Oh dear. Clearly not a fan, then 😉
It gave me the worst headache
Marisa Mckoy Sorry to read that.