I got a question. ( I am working on a ford f-150 5.0 2014) How did you get your cam caps and shift out??. I have seen some videos that they have the valve system completely out of the engine to get to end of the shift
Great video and information, sir. Let me ask you I have a 2011 50 and my driver side has low compression. How can I tell if I’ve been a valve or jump time? Thank you sir.
You would have to do a timing check while it’s running to see if the computer and the engine are reading the same timing to see if it’s jumped. For a bent valve you probably would have to put a bore scope camera in the cylinder and see if you can see the valve seated fully, or pull the head and valve out. 🤷
Great content on your channel! Like how you do everything yourself. I’m leaning towards a coyote swap over a big inch Windsor with a blower thanks to your channel. Keep up the good work.
Definitely buy the Euroexport (OG one) not the cheaper knockoffs. This tool works great. I have to do this shitty job again because my dumbass didn't do the valve stem seals the first time. I will break the job into 4 days. 8 a day just because it's repetitive and tedious and that's all you need is to have a lapse in attention and drop a retainer , lock or valve....
Only way I’ve done it is with air to keep the valve from moving down with the spring. I’ve heard some people fill up the chamber with thick string or something but I’ve never tried that method. Without something on the back side of the valve (air/ thick string) the retainers will not come free because they valve will move up and down with the spring.
@@crusadergarage298 ok im gonna remove the heads and just do them like that since i am doing gt500 gasket and studs also any ideas on removing head studs they are a pain 😂 i cant even get one out yet lol
You always give a light but firm tap on top of the assembled spring and retainer before you compress it. Doing this unseats the locks a little bit and they will not stick to the valve when you push it down.
Do you know what’s reusable and what’s not when installing new cams and springs? Do I need new retainers, cam caps, certain hardware, anything like that? I can’t find it online
I bought new retainers with the springs. I re used the same locks. Stock cam caps are fine. You will have to buy new cam cap bolts. They are torque to yield. So I went ahead and bought the ARP ones because you can reuse them, and they aren’t that much more expensive
Honestly I didn’t look. I kept the trigger pushed to add as much air as it would take until it started to initially break the retainer away from the keepers.
![How to Install Valves, Valve Springs, Retainers, Valve Seals, and Keepers. [LS Engines]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VBNsu4g1s-E/mqdefault.jpg)
I got a question. ( I am working on a ford f-150 5.0 2014) How did you get your cam caps and shift out??.
I have seen some videos that they have the valve system completely out of the engine to get to end of the shift
Great video and information, sir. Let me ask you I have a 2011 50 and my driver side has low compression. How can I tell if I’ve been a valve or jump time? Thank you sir.
You would have to do a timing check while it’s running to see if the computer and the engine are reading the same timing to see if it’s jumped. For a bent valve you probably would have to put a bore scope camera in the cylinder and see if you can see the valve seated fully, or pull the head and valve out. 🤷
Great content on your channel! Like how you do everything yourself. I’m leaning towards a coyote swap over a big inch Windsor with a blower thanks to your channel. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for compliment and thanks for watching.
Some people say to use gloves when you handle new springs, so they do not rust. Is that true?
I’ve never heard that with regards to valve springs. I’ve heard it when touching certain rod bolts like ARP’s L19 due to hydrogen embrittlement.
Definitely buy the Euroexport (OG one) not the cheaper knockoffs. This tool works great. I have to do this shitty job again because my dumbass didn't do the valve stem seals the first time. I will break the job into 4 days. 8 a day just because it's repetitive and tedious and that's all you need is to have a lapse in attention and drop a retainer , lock or valve....
Burning a good bit of oil?
I just try doing one with the motor in the car. But I didn’t add air and the retainer wont pop out any other way to do it?
Only way I’ve done it is with air to keep the valve from moving down with the spring. I’ve heard some people fill up the chamber with thick string or something but I’ve never tried that method. Without something on the back side of the valve (air/ thick string) the retainers will not come free because they valve will move up and down with the spring.
@@crusadergarage298 ok im gonna remove the heads and just do them like that since i am doing gt500 gasket and studs also any ideas on removing head studs they are a pain 😂 i cant even get one out yet lol
You always give a light but firm tap on top of the assembled spring and retainer before you compress it. Doing this unseats the locks a little bit and they will not stick to the valve when you push it down.
@diambo4life thanks for the info 👍
Do you know what’s reusable and what’s not when installing new cams and springs? Do I need new retainers, cam caps, certain hardware, anything like that? I can’t find it online
I bought new retainers with the springs. I re used the same locks. Stock cam caps are fine. You will have to buy new cam cap bolts. They are torque to yield. So I went ahead and bought the ARP ones because you can reuse them, and they aren’t that much more expensive
I was just talking to BoB about this.
I was at the point with this that it had to be done. I’m wanting to turn the boost up so this was the only way to safely ish do that.
@@crusadergarage298 agreed, I am watching
Thanks for watching 👍
Now 31 more to go
How much psi do you add into the chamber so the valves won’t drop?
Honestly I didn’t look. I kept the trigger pushed to add as much air as it would take until it started to initially break the retainer away from the keepers.
Before doing the valve get the piston to top dead center so it doesn't fall all the way.
Why did you upgrade the springs? Doing cams?
Limited on boost with stock springs, above 16lbs starting to see issues.
@@crusadergarage298 can you remember what lbs springs they are?
They are PAC 1243X springs.
Dang giving you too much time to get ready for el toro
Can’t blame me for trying. Haha