I see you use the filter kit. Do you think it's absolutely necessary? Would proper cold crash and dump not be enough? Maybe tuening the racking arm upward?
Might be ok depending on the beer. This beer had a ton of fruit and was crash cooled and finned with some enzymes and still needed the filter. Not always necessary but certainly a good “just in case”
Yes. On canning days i use 1.4BAR. i believe the max you can go before the safety prv starts is 2BAR which is also listed as its pressure rating. Ive only ever gone as high as 1.6BAR on packaging days. I think they say operating pressure at 1BAR because you dont ever really need to go higher when it comes to the ferment and carbing. For packaging i do go higher since i like to slightly over carb my beers and it helps mitigate foam.
I have issue with stuck filter even doing many2 trub dump , do you think it is good idea to do a tiny trub dump at harvest port before harvesting the beer?
Did you get instructions with the side pull tap re pressure to set the keg at and then adjusting the flow control? Do you have a link to the instructions?
No instructions came with it. Generally speaking you can go pretty high with the pressure when using flow controlled faucets. It helps to increase pressure when there is too much foam. When it comes to corny kegs im not 100% sure how it would work out since the beer would absorb and equalize the co2 head pressure. Since i use poly / key kegs i can play with it without worries. Here is a diagram put out by Brewdog that kinda explains it. Not side pull specific but relevant i think. www.bierenco.nl/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Key-Keg-Dispense-Guidelines.pdf
Are they single use? Or do you buy replacement bags and reuse the structural & coupling parts? Must look at cost on these, interested to see how they work out vs using refurb corny kegs.
They are single use. Mostly for breweries that dont want to go collect kegs back. I was tired of storing corny kegs i didnt use. These are good to go so no cleaning or purging. Just fill and use then they need to be depressurized and put into plastic recycling when finished. They can be “expensive” if you keg alot. I dont so $17 per keg is fine by me. Worth the space i gained by getting rid of all my corny kegs. After cleaning solutions, sanitizer, co2, storing empties and time spent id say its pretty close to just buy kegs as needed
KeyKeg is filled upside down because they dont have a diptube. This brand of keg,PolyKeg, has a diptube so it can be filled upright. Filling a keykeg upright creates lots of foam.
@@MasteringHomebrew that is true BUT the bigger reason is that when you connect the coupler the way you do, you potentially introduce a volume of air into the inside of the bag. This is of course not desirable. Even in a Polykeg this extra air then remains inside the bag! When connecting the coupler in the upside down position all air is removed from the coupler valve.
@@patmog it’s important to note you dont absolutely need to fill at 2BAR though. In a homebrew tank scenario the filling pressures can be lowered. Its just all about balancing the lines with a fill speed you are happy with. Nothing is set in stone since every brewery is different and these kegs are usually used with commercial tanks. Its just counter pressure filling in the end. The kegs should never be completely free from pressure to prevent stress cracks from forming in the plastic.
@@MasteringHomebrew polykeg Seem to suggest 1.5 bar, but keykeg say minimum 2.0 or the bag wont unfold correctly. If I remember correctly they say that it can cause issues when emptying the keg at the customer. But polykeg dont Seem to have the same restriction.
You have upped your game. I like.
Amazing setup! Whats the gadget you put on the keg? AWS? Is a pressure controller?
Yes it is basically a counter pressure filler for the kegs. It is sold by Lindr. Its called “keykeg/polykeg filling head”
Thanks
I see you use the filter kit. Do you think it's absolutely necessary? Would proper cold crash and dump not be enough? Maybe tuening the racking arm upward?
Might be ok depending on the beer. This beer had a ton of fruit and was crash cooled and finned with some enzymes and still needed the filter. Not always necessary but certainly a good “just in case”
Is it within spec to apply 1.5 bar of pressure to the brewtools? I'm only asking because I think they say operating pressure is 1.0 or 1.1.
Yes. On canning days i use 1.4BAR. i believe the max you can go before the safety prv starts is 2BAR which is also listed as its pressure rating. Ive only ever gone as high as 1.6BAR on packaging days. I think they say operating pressure at 1BAR because you dont ever really need to go higher when it comes to the ferment and carbing. For packaging i do go higher since i like to slightly over carb my beers and it helps mitigate foam.
I have issue with stuck filter even doing many2 trub dump , do you think it is good idea to do a tiny trub dump at harvest port before harvesting the beer?
Yea i think its a good idea. I also only open my butterfly valve only 1 click. It helps alot to keep the hops and trub in the tank
Did you get instructions with the side pull tap re pressure to set the keg at and then adjusting the flow control? Do you have a link to the instructions?
No instructions came with it. Generally speaking you can go pretty high with the pressure when using flow controlled faucets. It helps to increase pressure when there is too much foam. When it comes to corny kegs im not 100% sure how it would work out since the beer would absorb and equalize the co2 head pressure. Since i use poly / key kegs i can play with it without worries. Here is a diagram put out by Brewdog that kinda explains it. Not side pull specific but relevant i think.
www.bierenco.nl/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Key-Keg-Dispense-Guidelines.pdf
Are they single use? Or do you buy replacement bags and reuse the structural & coupling parts? Must look at cost on these, interested to see how they work out vs using refurb corny kegs.
They are single use. Mostly for breweries that dont want to go collect kegs back. I was tired of storing corny kegs i didnt use. These are good to go so no cleaning or purging. Just fill and use then they need to be depressurized and put into plastic recycling when finished. They can be “expensive” if you keg alot. I dont so $17 per keg is fine by me. Worth the space i gained by getting rid of all my corny kegs. After cleaning solutions, sanitizer, co2, storing empties and time spent id say its pretty close to just buy kegs as needed
@@MasteringHomebrew Awesome. Pretty hard to argue with $17. I thought they'd be double that at least.
@@ryanwhalley5551 yea thats just the 12L one. The 20, 24, 30L kegs go for $20-25 each depending on size.
Hi Lyndon, what is the diameter of these thin pipes that go from the filter, and why do you use such thin pipes? because of the foam or?
Thank You
Hi! They are 5/16”(8mm) beer line for a bit more resistance to help against too much foaming.
@@MasteringHomebrew thank You
I learned that key-keg should be filled upside down, do you think that it doesnt matter to fill them the other way around?
KeyKeg is filled upside down because they dont have a diptube. This brand of keg,PolyKeg, has a diptube so it can be filled upright. Filling a keykeg upright creates lots of foam.
@@MasteringHomebrew that is true BUT the bigger reason is that when you connect the coupler the way you do, you potentially introduce a volume of air into the inside of the bag. This is of course not desirable. Even in a Polykeg this extra air then remains inside the bag! When connecting the coupler in the upside down position all air is removed from the coupler valve.
@@onecircleaustralianewzeala6467 interesting. So connect upside down! Thanks for the hot tip! 🙃
@@MasteringHomebrew
czcams.com/video/zA-4eTBaDSQ/video.htmlfeature=shared
Correct way to fill a keykeg.
czcams.com/video/zA-4eTBaDSQ/video.htmlfeature=shared
Do these exist in the U.S.?
If not polyKegs then definitely the keyKeg branded ones. There are a few brands out there. My local homebrew shop here happens to sell singles.
@@MasteringHomebrew Keykeg wants you to fill at 2 bar though.
@@patmog it’s important to note you dont absolutely need to fill at 2BAR though. In a homebrew tank scenario the filling pressures can be lowered. Its just all about balancing the lines with a fill speed you are happy with. Nothing is set in stone since every brewery is different and these kegs are usually used with commercial tanks. Its just counter pressure filling in the end. The kegs should never be completely free from pressure to prevent stress cracks from forming in the plastic.
@@MasteringHomebrew polykeg Seem to suggest 1.5 bar, but keykeg say minimum 2.0 or the bag wont unfold correctly. If I remember correctly they say that it can cause issues when emptying the keg at the customer. But polykeg dont Seem to have the same restriction.
@@patmog yea that makes alot of sense. I guess the spear makes all the difference.