Fixing The Filament Loading On Creality K1 Series 3D Printers
Vložit
- čas přidán 13. 06. 2024
- Chuck fixes a common issue on the Creality K1, K1C and K1 Max, it's hard to load filament.
He shows you how to improve your K1, K1C or K1 Max to make it easier to load filament.
Video Sponsored by:
www.pcbway.com
www.pcbway.com/design-service...
Design, PCBs, Assembly, CNC, 3D Printing and more!
K1, K1C, K1 Max Extruder and Motor:
amzn.to/3KKKB3s
Extruder only:
amzn.to/3RqS4Zf
**** Support the Channel *****************
Patreon: / elproducts
Thangs: thangs.com/designer/chep
Direct Via Paypal: www.paypal.me/elproducts
Shop at MatterHackers.com and automatically donate at no cost to you: bit.ly/1Ugcijp
Buy K1, K1C or K1 Max Extra Fast 3D Printers:
K1 Max Creality: shrsl.com/4avrb or Amazon: amzn.to/3TkySfQ
K1C: shrsl.com/4fuc4 or Amazon: amzn.to/3TKbWYL
K1: shrsl.com/4fuc8 or Amazon: amzn.to/49Z1en6
Buy Ender 3 V3 SE:
Creality: shrsl.com/4avrd
Amazon: amzn.to/3TzbJYI
Get more Arduino and Electronics by Becoming a CHEP Member:
thangs.com/designer/chep
********* Ender Style Cura Profiles Download Links: *******
Best (0.12) : thangs.com/file/1075768
Good (0.20) : thangs.com/file/1075769
Extra Fast (0.28) : thangs.com/file/1075772
Hyper Fast (0.32) : thangs.com/file/1075773
TPU thangs.com/file/1075775
Filament Friday Tool Kit:
amzn.to/2MOR00X
Ender 3 V3 SE EF020 Profile and Chair 3D Print:
thangs.com/file/975372
K1 and K1 Max Cura Profile:
thangs.com/file/971576
K1 Max Side Spool Holder:
thangs.com/file/948987
For Older Ender 3's (Not Needed for Ender 3 SE)
Buy - Filament Friday E-Leveler 2:
amzn.to/3qUl80A
(Original version: amzn.to/3qEr2mw)
How to Use the E-Leveler 2: www.chepclub.com/e-leveler2.html
********* Ender Style Cura Profiles Download Links: *******
Best (0.12) : thangs.com/file/1075768
Good (0.20) : thangs.com/file/1075769
Extra Fast (0.28) : thangs.com/file/1075772
Hyper Fast (0.32) : thangs.com/file/1075773
TPU thangs.com/file/1075775
***** Tools *****
T - Handle Allen Wrench Set: amzn.to/3MBBv8i
Nozzle Removal Tool:
Palm Ratchet: amzn.to/3u6ncm7
Premium Version with Rubber Grip: amzn.to/3qPs3pB
1/4'' Socket: amzn.to/2OjdHdg
***** Popular Prints:
CHEP Cube Test Print: thangs.com/file/21739
CHEP PTFE Cutter Tool: thangs.com/file/23507
CHEP Pawn: thangs.com/file/29643
Direct Support through PayPal donation:
www.paypal.me/elproducts
Buy thru this link to Slice Engineering for the Best Hot Ends and get 5% off your purchase:
www.sliceengineering.com/chep
************************************
***Creality Ender 3 Parts/Upgrades ****
Ender 3 Glass Bed:
Amazon: amzn.to/3tYea7m
Replacement Nozzles for CR10/Ender 3:
amzn.to/2m39K1y
X-Axis Tensioner
amzn.to/38BKbYP
Y-Axis Tensioner
amzn.to/2PhOdhi
Chuck's Favorite EZR Extruder:
bit.ly/2rlKCpp
Creality 8-bit Silent Stepper Board: amzn.to/2YPM0Nh
Cap Tubes & Couplings: amzn.to/2Vf8BCf
CR10/Creality Ender 3 Nozzles: amzn.to/2m39K1y
CR10/Ender3 Silicon Heater Block Cover: amzn.to/3sfDG7s
Solder Sleeve Kit: amzn.to/2Pqqngm
Creality Ender 3 Fan Set (24v): amzn.to/38u9aOl
CR-10 Fan Set (12v): amzn.to/2PrcCxK
T-Nuts Kit: amzn.to/2LsQZg8
Screw Kit: amzn.to/2Va8uGK
Temperature Meter Used in Videos: amzn.to/2JpUJOC
Screwdriver set used in Videos: amzn.to/2PbWocM
Creality Ender 3 Upgrade Package (Extruder, Silent Board & Capricorn Tubing): bit.ly/2MNvmcs
**** Support the Channel *****************
EBAY USA: ebay.to/1wtxfiU
EBAY UK: ebay.eu/2qdC5iy
EBAY Canada: bit.ly/2qdGRwh
Note:
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
****************************************************
Filament Friday Sticker:
Send Self Addressed Stamped Envelope to:
Electronic Products
PO Box 251
Milford, MI 48381
****************************************************
Chuck's Arduino Book:
amzn.to/3tA31JP
Intro animation by Pablo Licari based on Filament Friday Logo by Brian Carter. - Jak na to + styl
It's actually easier if you use the side cutters that come with the printer to flare the PTFE tube. Just stick one arm in and rotate it around to ream it out. Also, the extruder alignment issue can also be resolved by swapping the PTFE tube with a 2mm ID tube instead of the stock's 2.5mm ID. This will prevent it from getting to the side. (The inside is only 2mm ID as well, so it makes no sense that some of their machines shipped with the 2.5mm ID PTFE tubes.)
Smaller ID may cause problems with some filaments dragging on the inside and not feeding smoothly.
@@philipershler420 No, not at all... filament is spec'd at 1.75... all normal PTFE tube is 2.0mm ID already.
Very interesting thank you for that tutorial. Never had the need for big maintenance on my K1 but these little simple upgrades will help me avoid potential problem in the futur 👍
Fantastic! Thanks a bunch, Chuck!!! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks so much. I intermittently had this problem, and it drove me crazy. Now I know how to fix it.
Thanks for this. I wasn't even aware of the lock/unlock switch on the top. That was stopping my filmament from feeding.
My newer style k1c: To find where the hang up within the filament sensor, push the filament up until it binds. Grab the filament at the guide tube, then pull out and align it outside of the sensor. If the guide above the sensor is the problem, the end of the held filament will align with the top of the sensor. As suggested, make sure the ptfe tube is inside the sensor body. On the hot end, I remove the ptfe tube, run 2 inches of filament thru the tube and manually insert into the unlocked extruder until the filament bottoms out, then lock into place and re-insert the ptfe tube into it's push lock.
Thanks for the fixes. Keep 'em coming !
Thanks. I keep having this problem and now its all good.
I love the printer but hated changing filament, Thanks for the info. I'm going to do that today.
Chuck, I just watched your video and you fixed the annoyance of my K1 Max every time I try to load a filament. I didn't do the drill bit trick, but when I pulled the PTFE tube end in the switch was chewed up. Cut the tip that was chewed and now the filament goes in with no issues. Thanks for the video, keep them coming.
Good info as always. Something that also helped my K1 Max filament path was to bypass the rear entrance and come in straight from the right side. I drilled a 5mm hole in the upper right corner of the side cover which allowed the PTFE tubing to enter the runout sensor straight on. I also printed a lid riser and replaced the stock tubing with a length of Capricorn reverse Bowden tubing which has a slightly larger inner diameter than the stock Creality.
Great video. Simple fixes when you are shown. I will make these changes to my K1 Max tomorrow.
Been doing this to my PTFE tube for years. But, to be honest, it made the biggest difference on the K1. So much easier to load now. Surprised not more people know about this. Good video for getting the info out there though.
Very good info and appropriate for other printers as well. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks CHEP.
Great detail!
Excellent video Chuck. It probably goes without saying - but be sure to blow through the tubes backwards or make sure you don't leave any ptfe shavings in the filament path. They could and most likely will plug your nozzle.
Big thanks - this will be very useful
Thanks! I have very much enjoyed my K1 (purchased October, 2023), but the filament loading has been a royal pain! Looks like you have come up with an easy and simple solution. I wonder if Creality has used a metal tube with a flared end would that have been better than the PTFE tube?
I don’t have any of the K1s, but I’ll use the “drill” trick on the PTFE tubes on my other printers. Thanks!
Thanks for the great videos. Any advice for a draging / sagging chain that hits on the X Axis when it moves ( K1 Max) ? Also would the blue ptf tubing be better to replace all the white?
Lately you've been asking your subs "What kinds of videos should I do?" I'm betting this video came out of that effort. I found this VERY helpful. And, it wasn't a pitch for a product, which I also enjoyed. So I'm going to try to reinforce this for you. What about doing a series of videos that "REVEAL" the "MYSTERIES" of the CREALITY MACHINES? Examples" What is the control board? How does it work? What are it's internal specifications? I think you've able to see where I'm going with this. Imagine your Sherlock Holmes, maybe, and there's a mystery that needs to be revealed. Go to it, Sherlock!
I use hobby knife. Whatever you use to, make sure no shavings are left in the tube. They don't melt in nozzle 😉
The 1/4" drill bit is a good idea, but not really necessary.
I have the K1-Max.
I used to have similar problems loading the filament.
A bit of brainpower showed me a simple remedy.
1. Cut the filament square (90 degrees...not 45 deg as everyone suggests...no no no.)
2. Use a nail file/emery board to chamfer the outer edge of the filament.
| |
| |
\ /
You would have thought after three re-designs of their extruder to get one that works they would have got it right!
The Curse Of Creality strikes again!
T H A N K Y O U ...... This has issue has been plaguing my K1 Max from the day I bought it. I dreaded changing filaments.
Extruder on k1c does not have blue ptfe tube it directly goes to capricron nozle
Is there a difference between the old extruder motor and the motor on the new version extruder? I have the first version of extruder on a K1 and am not sure if I should get the $29 extruder only or $49 extruder and motor.
Motor is the same
@@diwest1737 ok cool thanks
Do you know what that sticker with the arrow and thumb print on it is for?
To show the direction to input the filament. The thumb print means I should have removed it.
The radius bends on the PTFE tubing are too small making it harder for the extruder to do it's job - especially with larger surface prints, and filament with poor diameter tolerances. Did Creality do this so a flat lid could be placed on the printer? I think a better solution is to have a coupler at the filament spool end that can rotate, and don't attach the tube to the frame anywhere else so you have a single large radius bend. It does however mean that to totally enclose the printer you need a lid with a high roof.
Any recommendations on FREE cad software that’s better than tinkercad?? I have some projects I won’t to play with and tinkercad isn’t the best option for them.
I only use Tinkercad so I don’t have a good recommendation.
I know everyone screams about Fusion 360, but I've been using it for a while and haven't run into any notable issues 🤷🏿♀️
I know it’s not relevant to this video but have you experienced problems when going to windows 11 and cura suddenly changing from Goode to a compressed version?
A brilliant solution that I applaud even though I don't own the relevant printer because Creality scared me away years ago and every 3D printer brand I've used besides Creality has given me far less troublesome results. My Ender 3 Pro was a Mortal Sin (in Cat-lick terms) so I veer away from it. Seriously. That Ender 3 Pro I owned and endured for a while was a direct offspring of de Debbil, and I'm an atheist
Me, I just cut my filament at an angle and it never seems to be trouble (K1 Max).
Twist the filament and there it goes. Nothing more, nothing less.
Teaching cutting filament at a 45 degree needs to stop. It works with some printers, but will cause severe aggravation with most others.
The sharp tip will bind on every chance it gets. The solution is to cut it then cut it again at a different angle until the tip of the filament is somewhat close to center and there aren't any edges that the filament can get stuck on.
Modifications of the machine might help sometimes if you just cut it at a 45, but they won't always. There is always the leading tip that is off center that will want to find a place to catch.
Center the tip of your filament before feeding. You'll thank me later.
POV: You are bound to Creality by contract the next 20 years instead to change to a good manufacturer of 3D printers. 😂
Wish I had a contract for all the help I’ve given their customers over the years…I actually just added to my X1C,P1S collection and bought an A1 Mini for $199 at Microcenter to play with.
@@FilamentFriday Well, until Creality offers you such a contract it has to be enough that we the customers thank you for all the effort and work you put into the community. Thank you! Hope to see more content of A1 mini here in the future as I also plan to buy one :)
So, if I understand correctly, Creality didn't do a good job designing and testing the printer, so they charged us for a new part to replace their defective part.
Up next, the Creality K2; it's just like the k1, but the ends of the PTFE tubes have a 'little funnel' on them 😂😂 (I definitely don't wish this to be the case, but with how things have gone I wouldn't put it past them either.. I don't hate creality, but I wouldn't exactly say they're perfect, either..)
5 years into printing and we are still showing solutions to creality problems
This is why my Creality printers sit unused and I keep adding Bambu Lab printers to my not-really-a-print-farm collection.
Interesting that manufacturers are still selling printers that still require “fixing”.
Maybe HP or Canon should take over 3d printer. 😊
Never again shitality. I want to print and not calibrate. Why need to fix xy?... bought bambulab, no more fixing xy problems.
Direct extruder there so much better.
Al that tubing is no good.
You just get more problems.
The newer units now have unicorn nozzle.