Adjust the Height of a Fence EASY! | Heights & Balancing
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- čas přidán 4. 09. 2024
- This is how WE set the heights & balance a wood fence. We used pressure treated lumber for 4x4s and we use the Thumper and the Protector from Mr. Fence Tools to adjust our heights! This is how WE build our wood fences.
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Set up a “grade string” with stakes and install your posts to the finished height to start. You won’t need to beat on the posts
I agree with Mr fence. Adjustment is needed before setting the final grade/height . My question is this....
When you lift a post, it creates a void below the bottom. What are you doing to keep.the raised post from settling back to the original height?
We dry Pak so when you lift concrete falls under post and when you re pack it the compression laterally holds the post in place
I don't know about this one mr fence! I usually always agree with your tactics. The best way we have found is to set our posts with no rails first. Then we string our toprail height using screws on each "pivot post" to hold the string up and down depending on the desired picket height. From there you can visualize the top of string being the top of top rail by eye to roll with the grade. Once you like it you mark all your posts with a pencil. That will now be your reference mark for your picket hight and you other 3 backing rails. Pulling the posts up and down and moving the posts after the boards are up (especially face screwed) seems hackey
Same here. Each post is set a few inches too tall. Tie string to each end and sight the string and set with a nail up or down as needed. Mark string on each post with pencil. Set top rail to that mark. Then I cut excess off top of posts. Very fast and no jockeying post or swinging sledge hammer. Tip: only do every second post and use 16' rails. Who cares where middle posts land, they're located by 2nd posts in both spacing and height and vertical. They don't get any measure, just a quick level in parallel to rails but rails make them plum in the other Axis. Fast!
True.
...But then , how would he sell the tools he invented to the new fence guys taking his class? 😂
I like a lot of what you teach and the tools you sell, I'm a customer but this ain't the best way to do this. We use a string line and tinker around with it until it looks as graceful as possible with the existing grade, then mark and cut the posts. Works like a charm and measurably faster than this.
Why are the post not set in cement? Why were the tops of the post not (cut) in a line to grade to start?
yes i wondered too if you set it deep deep ive been told doesngt matter although you couldnt convince me
It all depends on what bothers a customer. I had folks get mad about following grade, and folks get mad about gaps on bottom of fence. I even had a customer tell me that she doesn’t think posts should go in concrete...
I think that what mr. fence is doing is not necessary, but he does. So, that’s what he will do. If his client likes it, that’s what matters.
What always used to bother me was when a customer wanted [the good side] Meaning the pickets on their side. I would always ask them if they wanted the gates latches backwards also.
but what about correctness if the customer is wrong and it comes down do you still be,lueve the cust always right
I'm not judging, I appreciate seeing so much concern for how the slope of the fence looks rather than measuring once at each post, and having a "stock market" slope. But here's our process:
Paint a mark on your auger for how deep the posts need to be. After they are all set (to the same depth, give or take a couple inches), run a string line and step back and visualize how it will look. "Rail it up", then cut off excess 1-2" off the top of posts. Clean cut on top of posts, rails in the right grade, posts are set solid, and in a consistent depth.
I think the amount of time spent fiddling with the grade is the same, if not more than the time spent measuring, running a string line, then cutting post tops.
Also, "Fido" may not sneak out from under the fence, but may break out with 8.5" of unsupported picket under the bottom rail.
If there is concrete under the post how are you able to push it down?
Looks like a pretty sturdy fence that any minor wind can bend like nothing.
That’s a very uninformed statement to make. This is a test fence that has been installed for years now in a high wind area. Interestingly enough it is still straight and solid.
You don’t know what you don’t know until you learn what you didn’t know my friend.
Keep learning
I like a tight level stringline
Thank you for the video I Feel Dumber for watching it some of the silliest crap I've ever seen in my life
Another good one. I get better at my trade with each one.
Wow dude this guy is teaching you how to build fences you may want to look elsewhere
@@vonsmutt4254 Hey, bro. A wise person learns by watching everything. Learn what to imitate and learn by others mistakes. We can be grateful to both without insulting either.
I get what you’re doing here Mr Fence, definitely an all size fits all type approach to this method. Something team members can learn, but most guys with experience can do this without a string. You get a feel for it and it just come naturally by sight. Something most team members don’t care to perfect. So definitely helpful to implement in your business
Being a fencer myself, I don't agree with you on this one Mr fencer.
Customers should be explained in full details before proceeding with the construction.
Fence posts should be adjusted or cut back to the required height prior attaching the rails.
We don't go back to Knock down every post to desire height after the rails have been attached to the post.
This is the first time I see this method in my 20 years experience of building fence.
Once the post is set in the ground, we don't go around and pull them up to the desired height , this would mean you left a hollow gab under the bottom of the post that would allow the post to sink back to it initial height.
No concrete holding the posts??
why dont u cut them if theyre high?
Question I'm assuming you did not have your concreate in the post yet in order to do this? So you want to build this without concreate than adjust and then set the concreate??
*Concrete...I hope you're good a fencing because you would not win a spelling bee.😆
hes not usong concrete i dontg like that
I'm lost aren't the post supposed to be set in concrete or not?
I think i will stick with the string line/ cut if needed.
Aren't you supposed to install the posts with concrete how the hell are you going to get them in or out to line them up?
How fast do you typically take to install a 200 ft, 6 ft standard privacy fence?
If everything goes smoothly at job site
Ya I just get a rotary laser. Set my height. Cut the posts,then install the rails.
Well cutting post is a bad idea, the treatment is not a good just a couple of inches in and your exaposing that right at the most vulnerable spot the top of the post. ASTM standard is a minimum of 30” of post in the ground on a 6’ tall fence so with an 8’ post you need every inch.
@@mrfenceacademy If you set your posts and concrete. You can string it and cut it. Just seal it or put a post cap on it. In my area a 5.5x5.5 post cap costs $2.50. Based in Washington If you are wondering. Rainy State. You'll find that in this state most fences have post caps. Its a good look and helps keep the water out of the posts. I also quote in a clear sealant for all cedar fences. It's quick, affordable and customers don't get ripped from a painting company.
That is smart
You’re adorable ☺️. You can build my fence any day.
Learn how to set your posts to elevation and leave thumper in the damn truck! 😂
This is not the best optios on installing the fence.
Worst thing I've ever seen. Why are those posts loose in the ground
This is horrible
Hey Mate, are these posts concreted in that your moving up and down?
Yes they are dry cast and compacted
@@mrfenceacademy do you let them cure by themselves or add water once your grade is right? Whats keeping the post from settling back down?
@@devynf4540 we do not add watter
@@mrfenceacademyWhat keeps it from blowing over in the wind once pickets are up? Or from settling back down after you wiggle them up? I set one day, build the next. I use dry mix, add water to hole. Next day they are solid and I run a string for my grade/post height. I don't ever have to come back and adjust them. I run a small operation. Me and a helper. Would love to find a faster way to work. But also don't want to sacrifice quality. Maybe I am too much of a perfectionist, and "good enough" is good enough...I've been watching your vids, and others to learn tricks etc. Seems like different parts of the country have different methods. Maybe what some people do won't work well in other regions? Or will your techniques work no matter where you are? Thank you for the videos! I may have to buy one of your hole marking bungee string lines 😃👍
@@devynf4540 it’s all about compaction that the key
I've been installing fence for 28 yrs. and you aren't raising or lowering posts set in concrete. I always run "string lines for grade". I don't know of any alternatives to that even if you can set the posts high and then cut off the tops later. Run grade string lines either before setting posts or after and trim off posts, depending on type of fence. Many PVC, and/or Ornamental Aluminum, can't be trimmed after due to precut holes for rail insertion so the initial post set has to be graded as well as wooden posts with ornamental lathed tops . He obviously doesn't use concrete and what's he do if he hits rock. Sorry Mr. Fence, "FAIL"
What the hell is going on here?? Please never fit a fence like this.
Plumb?
My posts are in concrete. What now?
Wow, negative negative negative!
Just get a string line out before you rail it and you won’t need to kill your shoulders with that big ass hammer and fixing a problem that could have been prevented before railing.
Well then we would have to go to the gym no one has time for that
Educational and impressive. Question if you don’t mind. Installing pickets should you start on higher or lower ground?
Bruce
Any fences with metal post? I’m about to start building one on my own and just wondering why wood? Prices? Or just easier to work with?
TIA
Where i am, $30 a post metal w/ hardware, wood about 18$
What's the technique for postmaster posts?
Pretty much the same
Definitely didn't use concrete to set those post. And he must have good vision can tell a measurement with just by looking at it
❤
30 mile wind that will be laying on the floor
I fucking hate CZcams ads
I’m so confused. Why not screw the slats in evenly AFTER setting posts in concrete? Must be a professional way to do it. I know nothing clearly.
Not the best option, what if the ground had hight spots then the measurements won't be accurate, you should have pulled a line from the top of the first post to the last. Then you will get an accurate measurement for all.
Much more complicated than it needs to be. And you've sacrificed the structural integrity. I'm not sorry.
Why not cut the post that was 10 in too high. If you drive it down that ment it heaved and it will heave again lol
I don't care about the contour of the ground. My fences have to be laser leveled at the top and have a kickboard into the dirt at the bottom.
Way to much BS to get it to flow IMO. But if it works for you then it's great but this one is not for us.
First of all u never measure from the ground up if there any type of grade u will get a diff measurement every time
I would've used concrete young man look how easy it pulls up....not a good install with other comments mentioned should not of had to bang posts...
Ever heard of a string line?
My grandpa use to use string lines
@@mrfenceacademy the thumper tool looks like something they would do in 1800th century 😄
people just want a fence to let dogs outside quick like fast
This is the dumbest thing ever
As the hammer falls on the young man's head has he been over to look at your tape measure you talk about safety but yet I see you unsafe a lot during your videos
this guy has too much time on his hands way to much work
Active yards is a trash product by the way
you try to hard to impress with what you know but the total application needs revising young man...splashy paint on your truck and tee's
What a joke
Bro doing too much for justleveling a fence
Fine until the first wind or frost hits it . 🤔
Simply not true we have been using this method since 1993 with multiple crews. We don’t have the frost heave issue our competition does weird I know right but it’s the reality. We got this?
Building in Newfoundland we have to go at least 3 ft deep min or we don't past the frost and the fence heaves badley. Great tidy work btw. Thanks for replying
This is a joke, right?
This is not how to set the fence😂😂😂